In my youth I used to buy and run older cars but higher mileages meant service/repair costs started eclipsing the purchase costs - and I got fed up with running bangers.
I now buy bargain new/nearly new usually aiming for end of a model deals and keeping for about a decade doing 15,000 miles / year and then throwing away (OK I've still got/ passed onto my son an Octavia we bought new in 2001). I effectively ignore depreciation on the basis that doing high-ish mileage renders any car worthless anyway. Over the last 25 years I've kept my effective save up/capital about £100 month (I generally pay cash, usually around or less than £10k)
End of model cars are usually the most "sorted" version of any car anyway .
However my strategy may change when I retire in a few years. Once I know where I am with pensions etc and my mileage drops PCH may be a consideration?
Edited by Big John on 02/09/2018 at 11:35
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In my youth I used to buy and run older cars but higher mileages meant service/repair costs started eclipsing the purchase costs - and I got fed up with running bangers.
I now buy bargain new/nearly new usually aiming for end of a model deals and keeping for about a decade doing 15,000 miles / year and then throwing away (OK I've still got/ passed onto my son an Octavia we bought new in 2001). I effectively ignore depreciation on the basis that doing high-ish mileage renders any car worthless anyway. Over the last 25 years I've kept my effective save up/capital about £100 month (I generally pay cash, usually around or less than £10k)
End of model cars are usually the most "sorted" version of any car anyway .
However my strategy may change when I retire in a few years. Once I know where I am with pensions etc and my mileage drops PCH may be a consideration?
It depends on the make though - when Nissan decided to bring their neawly developed K12 Micra to the market in the early 2000s, the run-out K11 was downgraded in many areas to be sold on the cheap - such as poor quality bumpers (paint flaking off the cheap plastic) and similarly reducing the quality of the interior plastics and just selling base spec cars, compared to the non-run out cars sold up to about 1999/2000. My 1996 model looked in far better condition visually when I PXed it in Jan 2006 than many run-out models did that were 5 years younger.
Admitedly this is probably more the exception than the rule, as most just reduce the number of sub-models in the range before going to the new one, often offering quite a few 'special editions' with decent optional extras, mainly for the lower/mid range sub-models.
I generally prefer to buy when a model has been on the market for about 3 of its 5 year lifecycle - by then, most, if not all major flaws (if it had any) would've come to light and hopefully been sorted out, or at least I would know about them before deciding whether to buy.
One of the problems I'm now facing with a 12yo car is that the main dealers are starting to say that certain parts won't be available any more (e.g. springs and dampers) from Mazda, although I thought it was 10 years after that model was no longer made, which in my car's case, was early 2009. I may use aftermarket parts for a while if they are good quality and the dealership is willing to fit (not sure about the warranty though) them.
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There is no right time - it depends on personal finances, image vs utility, type of requirement, badge snobbery, petrolheadedness etc.
For me I want it to be
- functionally effective -no point in an MX5 for visits to garden waste tip and DiY shops
- reliable - starts goes stops when I want. Adequate power for long journeys, refined
- comfortable and reasonably equipped - gizmos and bling low on priority list
So I have tended over the last few decades when I had to fund motoring to buy new/almost new mid range Focus, Astra, Octavia. Covered by warranty for around 3 years. Consider for replacement when car approaches increasing costs after 6-7 years and 100k+ as replacement and failures start to loom. Not nececessarily major items but the aggravating suspension steering bushes, pumps and motors (a/c units, wipers, windows, seat motors), clutches etc etc.
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. Consider for replacement when car approaches increasing costs after 6-7 years and 100k+ as replacement and failures start to loom. Not nececessarily major items but the aggravating suspension steering bushes, pumps and motors (a/c units, wipers, windows, seat motors), clutches etc etc.
Indeed my(er now my sons!) 17 year old Octavia had been nearly bullet proof for 16 years (just service items/brakes an exhaust, battery and a couple of bushes and a CV boot) . Has suddenly become a little needy as of late:-
Clutch
Rear drum back plate rusted through where the whole back plate assembly needed replacing including wheel cylinders, back plates, shoes, drums, springs, levers, fitting kit. This nearly wrote the car off but found a site that did fully assembled back plates for 67 Euros! (Skoda wanted over £200 just for the back plate, not with any bits - each!)
New Radiator
New Top engine/gearbox mount
Rear spring went boing (just repaired Friday!)
And now a coil pack as the car dropped onto two cylinders - fortunately not far from base. It's a wasted spark twin coil now with a big hole in the side!
Maybee should have got rid when the clutch gave up (was only cheap though) , nothing very expensive but have had quite a few in a row. My son is running it now - well he will be when a new coil pack arrives. I suppose I've a bit of a soft spot for it as I've owned from new, body is really good as well.
If the coil pack demise has nuked the CPU then it's game over anyway!
Edited by Big John on 02/09/2018 at 22:08
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Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.
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Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.
Unless it's a Honda diesel.
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Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.
Unless it's a Honda diesel.
...or you use it as it was intended (i.e. predominantly longer distance driving on faster flowing roads) from new and keep it well maintained (I'm talking going annual oil services/changes as a minimum), not the extended intervals as per some manufacturers' 'recommendations'/service indicators.
Most, even the not so good ones, still run perfectly fine if well treated. Its just that are far more susceptible to use for short trips from cold, abuse and unsympathetic maintenance than diesels of old.
If more people bothered to do a reasonable amount of research prior to buying and bought the right type (including powertrain) of car for their requirements, used and maintainied it properly, then many of them wouldn't need to change them so often. I would put this laziness at near the top of the REAL reasons people HAVE to change their car, right up there with keeping up with the Joneses to have the latest/best car around.
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If it helps, Japanese aren't immune from this. My 03 CRV with less than 90k miles needed a grand to get through this years MOT - sticking rear brake caliper/carrier, rotten backbox , other than that consumables though like 2x front tyres, tracking and pads, which is fair enough.
The good thing about an older vehicle is that I don't feel bad about thrashing it - I still service it with fresh oil and filters every 5 - 6k and don't abuse it as such, but I'm certainly not precious about it.
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If it helps, Japanese aren't immune from this. My 03 CRV with less than 90k miles needed a grand to get through this years MOT - sticking rear brake caliper/carrier, rotten backbox , other than that consumables though like 2x front tyres, tracking and pads, which is fair enough.
The good thing about an older vehicle is that I don't feel bad about thrashing it - I still service it with fresh oil and filters every 5 - 6k and don't abuse it as such, but I'm certainly not precious about it.
Not bad for a 15yo car!
My 12yo Mazda3 suddenly went from just having routine servicing to needing over the last two years and soon:
- Major brakes overhaul - £650
- New Clutch - £675
- 4 new alloy wheels (I downsized from 16in to 15in to save 40% on the price of OEM replacements and was near [5-10k miles or so away] to needing the tyres changed anyway - the overall cost was only £100 more than just replacing the 16in alloys on a like-for-like basis, plus my insurance dropped by £25!) - £600
- Needing soon (still driveable, maybe for another year or two if I'm lucky) a new power steering pump - £900 (ouch);
- Similar - soon to need new springs and shocks (next couple of years/10-15k miles) - £No idea, Mazda don't make OEM replacements any more now.
Just glad the engine is as good as it was when new. Hopefully with the above done and rust not accelerating, then mine might last over 15 years. Whether I would still be its owner, that's the $M question.
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Not bad for a 15yo car!
My 12yo Mazda3 suddenly went from just having routine servicing to needing over the last two years and soon:
- Major brakes overhaul - £650
- New Clutch - £675
- 4 new alloy wheels (I downsized from 16in to 15in to save 40% on the price of OEM replacements and was near [5-10k miles or so away] to needing the tyres changed anyway - the overall cost was only £100 more than just replacing the 16in alloys on a like-for-like basis, plus my insurance dropped by £25!) - £600
- Needing soon (still driveable, maybe for another year or two if I'm lucky) a new power steering pump - £900 (ouch);
- Similar - soon to need new springs and shocks (next couple of years/10-15k miles) - £No idea, Mazda don't make OEM replacements any more now.
Just glad the engine is as good as it was when new. Hopefully with the above done and rust not accelerating, then mine might last over 15 years. Whether I would still be its owner, that's the $M question.
Yup - that's why I gave it a chance and spent a lump on it - but I won't be doing it again. The PAS pump had better behave itself!
The way I see it, even the legendary indestructible Hilux can get dodgy brakes and rusting silencers. I only do routine service myself, I won't touch brakes etc. In this case it ended up being the whole carrier assembly. I couldn't have fixed that myself.
Most of the costs we get with decde plus cars will be labour costs!
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