All - When to change your car - barney100

What makes you change your car? current one needs expensive repairs, trying to keep as new as possible, just get bored? I'm in the keep it 'til it's needing loads of work camp...mainly because SWMBO has more sense than me and as long as it goes that's fine attitude.

All - When to change your car - SLO76
Historically I bought well looked after older cars usually under £3k that I knew I’d be able to easily sell on again then I’d flog them after a year or so with minimal loss, sometimes a profit. Today with young family and image conscious wife in tow it’s newer and safer cars only but I still have an eye on easy resale and longterm reliability.
All - When to change your car - Gibbo_Wirral
Historically I bought well looked after older cars usually under £3k that I knew I’d be able to easily sell on again then I’d flog them after a year or so with minimal loss, sometimes a profit.

Same here, although I tend to hold on to them for 3-5 years.

I'm not sure what I'll do next as nearly new cars seem to be plagued with more serious, more expensive problems that can't easily be fixed at home with a Haynes manual.

All - When to change your car - BMW Enthusiast

I drive around 25-30k miles per year so I usually change every 30 months and always buy new that way I have a decent bit of equity towards another new car. When I was younger I used to drive all sorts of bangers and keep them for a while and sell them on privately. Cars these days are too complex and having one that breaks down out of warranty can be a load of hassle and very expensive.

All - When to change your car - gordonbennet

Usually its when it needs changing, or something i've hankered after for some pops up in the right condition at the right price.

Though if a vehicle fails to give enough pleasure for its cost of running its out the door sharpish ie the short time she owned a Mitsi Outlander 1 it never gave enough performance for its amazing thirst (even on LPG) and it never endeared itself to SWMBO, despite being very stable on the road.

We've gone the other way and now avoid newer cars if possible, cos in all honesty many aint made to last like some older designs were, though i can see the appeal of buying new or near new with decent warranty and replacing when warranty expires, but to be truthful there is almost no new car for sale in this country now which appeal to us or if they did (ie Mustang though this old un would look a right fool in one) would be totally unsuitable for our use, and would probably lack the grip and totally dependability i require in winter anyway so it would be another toy and i already have one of those which gets virtually no use at all as it is.

I can well understand you being cheesed off with the present car, the maker has made it quite clear how important you are to them and i could not trust them again, and i'd want out if a suitable repair cannot be found.

Its an odd thing, years ago in my kerbside cowboy days i found how well engineered Japanese cars were, but apart from an early experience with owning Nissan Bluebird (got bored because literally nothing ever went wrong, sounds bizarre i know but i was young) it took me a long time to realise that only Japanese cars, mainly their AWD variances in Toyota and Subaru guise, actually give me pleasure...haven't tried a Korean car yet but would probably find similar, i prefer good solid if it aint broke don't fix it engineering and a maker prepared to stand by their product and customer to other desires in cars now..

All - When to change your car - TheGentlemanThug

I keep my cars until they rust or they can no longer do what I need. If the repairs don't outweigh the cost of a new car then I'm happy to pay them.

All - When to change your car - daveyjp

Apart from my first car which died due to rust after 18 months of ownership (it was 20 years old by then) and a couple of lemons I got rid of quickly, I buy new/nearly new and run until 50-60,000 miles.

This used to take 2-3 years, it now takes 5-6 as my annual mileage has reduced.

All - When to change your car - badbusdriver

My wife gets a Motability car, so every 3 years. I have tentatively suggested that we could buy and run a car for less than the benefit she would get should she take the money instead of the car, but she isn't keen!.

All - When to change your car - BMW Enthusiast

My wife gets a Motability car, so every 3 years. I have tentatively suggested that we could buy and run a car for less than the benefit she would get should she take the money instead of the car, but she isn't keen!.

My Aunt is entitled to a Mobility car but she and her husband buy a year old Fiesta every two years and only drive 2500 miles per year. It does work out a lot cheaper and they are still exempt from paying VED.

All - When to change your car - John F

My wife gets a Motability car, so every 3 years. I have tentatively suggested that we could buy and run a car for less than the benefit she would get should she take the money instead of the car, but she isn't keen!.

My Aunt is entitled to a Mobility car but she and her husband buy a year old Fiesta every two years and only drive 2500 miles per year. It does work out a lot cheaper and they are still exempt from paying VED.

I bet it does. Paid for mainly from the taxes of struggling young JAMs running beat-up motability cast-offs, I suppose. Why exempt from VED? I've just looked this 'allowance' up - apparently you get £60 a week!!!! Seems amazingly generous for, say, a disabled pensioner in a mortgage free house with one small car doing around 5,000m a year or less, especially if has a capable spouse to service it. I run two cars (Focus and TR7, total around 9000m ) for far less than £3000 p.a. - and that includes everything, including depreciation.

All - When to change your car - RT

My wife gets a Motability car, so every 3 years. I have tentatively suggested that we could buy and run a car for less than the benefit she would get should she take the money instead of the car, but she isn't keen!.

My Aunt is entitled to a Mobility car but she and her husband buy a year old Fiesta every two years and only drive 2500 miles per year. It does work out a lot cheaper and they are still exempt from paying VED.

I bet it does. Paid for mainly from the taxes of struggling young JAMs running beat-up motability cast-offs, I suppose. Why exempt from VED? I've just looked this 'allowance' up - apparently you get £60 a week!!!! Seems amazingly generous for, say, a disabled pensioner in a mortgage free house with one small car doing around 5,000m a year or less, especially if has a capable spouse to service it. I run two cars (Focus and TR7, total around 9000m ) for far less than £3000 p.a. - and that includes everything, including depreciation.

Remember the old blue disabled cars, provided for the most disabled? The Motability Scheme is the modern replacement but still only available for the most disabled.

Pensioners' spouses may have been able to maintain cars at one time but it gets difficult or impossible as the spouse themself gets older.

Just be glad John that you don't have a disability that bad to get a Motability car.

All - When to change your car - madf

I hope to get rid of my current car when I am incapable of driving, a drooling idiot or dead. Some may say I should sell it now :-)

Edited by madf on 31/08/2018 at 16:07

All - When to change your car - RobJP

I used to be a serial car changer.

But I've had the 325d estate since December 2013, when it was 6 months old, and, whilst I've considered changing it, I've not seen anything that is as complete, with a good spec, decent performance, that I actually like driving. Plus there's the fact that I'd have to realise close on £20k in depreciation, just to do it all over again.

The car currently has 64k on the clock. I may consider swapping if things start going expensively wrong, or when it gets close to 100k.

All - When to change your car - oldroverboy.

I thought I wouldn't change the Kia venga, then i thought i might but it is good for us, driving position etc, performance adequate, next 2 services paid for ......but can't bring myself to change as it would be £6000+ in outlay to get something new or nearly new tthat won't be much (if any) better. and £30.000 + for an F-Pace,but not a car for ownership out of warranty.

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180829994...1

Hum Ho says he sitting firmly on the fence.

Edited by oldroverboy. on 31/08/2018 at 19:30

All - When to change your car - dan86

I thought I wouldn't change the Kia venga, then i thought i might but it is good for us, driving position etc, performance adequate, next 2 services paid for ......but can't bring myself to change as it would be £6000+ in outlay to get something new or nearly new tthat won't be much (if any) better. and £30.000 + for an F-Pace,but not a car for ownership out of warranty.

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180829994...1

Hum Ho says he sitting firmly on the fence.

That's a lot if money per month for a car. I just couldn't part with that sort if cash for a car.

I tend to own cars until they are no longer economically viable. I've owned plenty of old bangers that I have run until they can no longer pass an MOT wothout exspensive work. I've had the same car from new for 8 years and all that's had is servicing a battery and one bulb. I don't plan on getting rid of it until it dies.

All - When to change your car - oldroverboy.

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180829994...p;

That's a lot if money per month for a car. I just couldn't part with that sort if cash for a car.

I tend to own cars until they are no longer economically viable. I've owned plenty of old bangers that I have run until they can no longer pass an MOT wothout exspensive work. I've had the same car from new for 8 years and all that's had is servicing a battery and one bulb. I don't plan on getting rid of it until it dies.

I'd like one, I can afford one, but the thought of repairs outside warranty absolutely terrifies me.and i'm not going to spend that sort of money on a car riddle with gremlins from tear 3 on, and some before that.

www.fpaceforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=3714

Edited by oldroverboy. on 31/08/2018 at 20:34

All - When to change your car - dan86

www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180829994...p;

That's a lot if money per month for a car. I just couldn't part with that sort if cash for a car.

I tend to own cars until they are no longer economically viable. I've owned plenty of old bangers that I have run until they can no longer pass an MOT wothout exspensive work. I've had the same car from new for 8 years and all that's had is servicing a battery and one bulb. I don't plan on getting rid of it until it dies.

I'd like

It's a nice car but I just couldn't part with that sort if cash for a car. Maybe if I win the lottery. But then if I had that sort of money I'd have Range Rover because I could afford the horrendous mantance bills.

All - When to change your car - Leif
My first car was sold to a salesman at the dealership when the ECU failed, and a repair was expensive. I’d had it about 5 years and it was 9 years old. The second was bought new and it was unrepairable after ten years. The repair bills in the last few years were quite high. The third was bought new and sold at six years old and 130,000 miles as I was concerned it would start to cost serious money to maintain, and perhaps break down. My latest car was bought new, and is six months old. I hope to keep it many years. In my experience cars become expensive to look after at maybe 8 years of age, assuming decent mileage.
All - When to change your car - skidpan

Once I had progressed from the land of total rubbish I tried to buy cars about 3 years old and with the intention of keeping them 2 years. Always endeavoured to find one owner local cars and in those days dealers were happy to pass on the previous ovmers details (no data protection). Never had a major breakdown but evn the care taken beuying did not prevent them from being a bit costly once they passed 4 years old.

So I took the decision to buy new and keep 4 years and my motoring costs stayed about the same but I had a newer car.

When my business mileage resulted in me doing probably 25,000 miles a year I took the decision to keep the car longer because at 4 years old with close on 100,000 miles they were pretty worthless. Take a Golf as an example, at 4 years old I was offered £2800, kept it another 3 years and spent probably £500 on a clutch, battery and exhaust, with close on 150,000 miles I still got £2800.

Eventually me and the Mrs decided 5 years was the limit and bought a new Golf, kept it 7 years and only had to replace a back box, so much for 5 years.

After the Golf we did stick to 5 years altough dads Micra that we inherited and ran for about a year was almost 8 when we sold it. In those 8 years it had a broken spring.

But now with us both retired with good pensions (and the government pension still to come) we have decided to swap both cars every 3 years. Cannot take it with you.

All - When to change your car - John F

What makes you change your car?

If ever the thought occurs to me, I lie down and wait for it to wear off. SHMBO is thankfully utterly devoid of car snobbery and we are retired, doing only 8k a year in hers and about 3k in mine. So it would be financially foolish to have newish cars every few years. But her Focus auto estate is nearly 18yrs old and our son is returning from working abroad so it might be offloaded to him. (Ideas for auto replacement, please - current shortlist is Pug 2008 EAT6 and Seat Arona with the now sorted autobox).

My Audi A8 is nearly 13yrs old, cost about the same as a new VW Up! over 4yrs ago, but is made of aluminium and its unstressed engine (well under 100bhp per litre) is just run in at 64,000m, so doing 3k a year for 20yrs (optimistically!) it should easily last me out barring disasters. VED is cheapish (so far) as pre March 2006 and fuel consumption not an issue at such low annual mileage.

All - When to change your car - Engineer Andy

What makes you change your car? current one needs expensive repairs, trying to keep as new as possible, just get bored? I'm in the keep it 'til it's needing loads of work camp...mainly because SWMBO has more sense than me and as long as it goes that's fine attitude.

How long is a piece of string? No seriously, for me, it all depends on the specific set of circumstances I find myself in at the time - I don't really have any set 'criteria' for changing that I follow, e.g. every X years or when the car gets to Y years old, even if it needs work done on it.

My personal/financial circumstances will have a large impact - at the moment, I'm between careers (not working and living off savings), so ovbiously getting a new car would be a waste of money, especially as mine still goes well with one or two minor issues. If it literally falls to bits and would cost several £0000 to put back on the road, then I would just scrap it and use public transport or get as best a cheap, reliable small car I could should I need 'some' wheels: almost all employers will expect you to have a car. I'm not that egotistical that turning up to work in something like that would bother me.

Ordinarily I would keep my car until (circumstance/finances/job situation permitting) I though changing would be worthwhile as regards the driving experience and reliability/roadworthyness over the longer term - it wouldn't look good to an employer if my own car broke down all the time when on company time/my way to work.

If I REALLY liked my car, then, if possible, I would put money into it to keep it going, up to a point. I would rarely consider changing a car that was under 5 years old unless I wasn't that happy with it and the alternative was significantly better and reasonably priced. I've never had enough money not to care about the prurchase and ownership costs.

All - When to change your car - oldroverboy.

I would rarely consider changing a car that was under 5 years old unless I wasn't that happy with it and the alternative was significantly better and reasonably priced. I've never had enough money not to care about the prurchase and ownership costs.

MOST sensible reply of the day!

Edited by oldroverboy. on 01/09/2018 at 19:35

All - When to change your car - liammcl

Mines 21 years old,
peugeot 106 1.1 petrol , 130,000k (12,000+ miles a year.)
It's a very simple car to fix and part real cheap.
I'll keep it , until it goes boom, or I lose it ;)
I have much gratitude to all the very helpful and knowledgeable people here, who helped me time and timew again while I was learning to change bits etc
Cheers All
Liam
ps dunno why people don't get older cars, and bring them to retired mechanics etc to fix
...everyone's a winner....

Edited by liammcl on 02/09/2018 at 04:05

All - When to change your car - Leif

ps dunno why people don't get older cars, and bring them to retired mechanics etc to fix
...everyone's a winner....

One good reason is that newer models are much safer. A five star NCAP rating ten years ago is nowhere near five stars today, I heard three stars mentioned by someone. Another reason is that old cars don’t have nice toys such as CarPlay and a built in DAB radio, or hands free phone support with a smart phone.

All - When to change your car - badbusdriver

ps dunno why people don't get older cars, and bring them to retired mechanics etc to fix
...everyone's a winner....

One good reason is that newer models are much safer. A five star NCAP rating ten years ago is nowhere near five stars today, I heard three stars mentioned by someone. Another reason is that old cars don’t have nice toys such as CarPlay and a built in DAB radio, or hands free phone support with a smart phone.

That is not really true. The structure of 10 year old cars which were 5 stars in their day are just as strong as the vast majority of current cars. The scoring system has changed only to take in things like accident avoidance systems and minimising the risk of injury to a pedestrian struck by the car.

All - When to change your car - liammcl

Also, there is the adapting the driving to the perceived risk.
If I'm not near anything , and plan ahead knowing the limitations of brakes, crumple zones, age of the car etc
I think this makes me a tad more aware of road conditions, driving safer , giving greater dstances, etc etc
I would guess ,If someone thinks they are "safe as houses",it can lead to a sense of aggressive driving, relying too much on technology to fix any errors in driving style.
Cheers
Liam
ps I have sat nav 5inch £25 with all the roads of the world
bluetooth handsfree £6
mp3, and bluetooth fm transmitter £4
and that is how much they cost to replace when they go wrong...

All - When to change your car - liammcl

famous last words ...
I wonder if it'll buff out .
40mph bump...


Mine ibb.co/chVcVV

You should've ssen the other guys... ibb.co/foOsxA

Now I have a Ford Ka 2005...
not much in it , but I needed one to get going asap.

May even get another 106....

Cheers
Liam

All - When to change your car - Andrew-T

famous last words ...
I wonder if it'll buff out .
40mph bump...

Tough luck Liam. I don't think even you will be able to straighten that one out. So that's one less car on the road in paintbox green (I saw another in our local supermarket yesterday).

All - When to change your car - liammcl

Cheers Andrew-T
lol.... hardly a scratch really :)
aww well... off she goes, to the rainbow bridge in the Skye..

Onward and forward...

I was after a Fiesta or so, but needs must ,
and now I can have a look around for another 106 , if needs be !

The breakdown took 3 hours ! to get to me..
. I was stood in the dark , waiting, and the car was in a very dangerous position.
ibb.co/e5Dv0V

The hazard lights drained the battery after 2 hours, so I put a high viz jacket on the back to warn other drivers. Passing Traffic police arrived 2 and a half hours in
ibb.co/fnHzSA

The ambulance asked the police, twice to attend, and had to wait 15 mins for them to refuse !
Then the breakdown truck eventually arrived, and it was the wrong one, so they couldn't get it off again
Off we go to the middle of nowhere to wait for a grabber truck to appear !

The crash happened at 5pm, but it took till midnight to get home ...my niece had to come and get me,... 30 miles from home !

While I was waiting, 2 cars went past the stationary car, by going on the pavement and up onto the grass...could've killed someone !

oh, and a lorry stopped, and 8 people appeared from the back of it !!!
(that can't be legal ?)
they couldn't move it either ..

So, all in all an adventure .....
Cheers

Liam

ps my new one...a bit of a monster really
*power steering!!!! ...*woo*
I hope I can handle the performance ..
ibb.co/ksEDnA
...and it'll be good if ever I want to become a hairdresser :)
Can't believe how hard it seems (if listening to t'internet ) to change a light bulb,
in the 106 it took 10 seconds !

I call it Ulrika-ka-ka-ka (Shooting Stars)

Edited by liammcl on 24/11/2018 at 11:34

All - When to change your car - Andrew-T

<< ps my new one...a bit of a monster really
*power steering!!!! ...*woo*
I hope I can handle the performance ..
ibb.co/ksEDnA
...and it'll be good if ever I want to become a hairdresser :) >>

Hey, Liam, that's almost new .... :-))

All - When to change your car - Andrew-T

<< One good reason is that newer models are much safer. >>

Well, maybe, but it's along way down my list of priorities when changing a car. It depends whether your mindset values what might just happen (and almost certainly won't) more than how a car makes you feel whenever you drive it.

All - When to change your car - Big John

In my youth I used to buy and run older cars but higher mileages meant service/repair costs started eclipsing the purchase costs - and I got fed up with running bangers.

I now buy bargain new/nearly new usually aiming for end of a model deals and keeping for about a decade doing 15,000 miles / year and then throwing away (OK I've still got/ passed onto my son an Octavia we bought new in 2001). I effectively ignore depreciation on the basis that doing high-ish mileage renders any car worthless anyway. Over the last 25 years I've kept my effective save up/capital about £100 month (I generally pay cash, usually around or less than £10k)

End of model cars are usually the most "sorted" version of any car anyway .

However my strategy may change when I retire in a few years. Once I know where I am with pensions etc and my mileage drops PCH may be a consideration?

Edited by Big John on 02/09/2018 at 11:35

All - When to change your car - Engineer Andy

In my youth I used to buy and run older cars but higher mileages meant service/repair costs started eclipsing the purchase costs - and I got fed up with running bangers.

I now buy bargain new/nearly new usually aiming for end of a model deals and keeping for about a decade doing 15,000 miles / year and then throwing away (OK I've still got/ passed onto my son an Octavia we bought new in 2001). I effectively ignore depreciation on the basis that doing high-ish mileage renders any car worthless anyway. Over the last 25 years I've kept my effective save up/capital about £100 month (I generally pay cash, usually around or less than £10k)

End of model cars are usually the most "sorted" version of any car anyway .

However my strategy may change when I retire in a few years. Once I know where I am with pensions etc and my mileage drops PCH may be a consideration?

It depends on the make though - when Nissan decided to bring their neawly developed K12 Micra to the market in the early 2000s, the run-out K11 was downgraded in many areas to be sold on the cheap - such as poor quality bumpers (paint flaking off the cheap plastic) and similarly reducing the quality of the interior plastics and just selling base spec cars, compared to the non-run out cars sold up to about 1999/2000. My 1996 model looked in far better condition visually when I PXed it in Jan 2006 than many run-out models did that were 5 years younger.

Admitedly this is probably more the exception than the rule, as most just reduce the number of sub-models in the range before going to the new one, often offering quite a few 'special editions' with decent optional extras, mainly for the lower/mid range sub-models.

I generally prefer to buy when a model has been on the market for about 3 of its 5 year lifecycle - by then, most, if not all major flaws (if it had any) would've come to light and hopefully been sorted out, or at least I would know about them before deciding whether to buy.

One of the problems I'm now facing with a 12yo car is that the main dealers are starting to say that certain parts won't be available any more (e.g. springs and dampers) from Mazda, although I thought it was 10 years after that model was no longer made, which in my car's case, was early 2009. I may use aftermarket parts for a while if they are good quality and the dealership is willing to fit (not sure about the warranty though) them.

All - When to change your car - Terry W

There is no right time - it depends on personal finances, image vs utility, type of requirement, badge snobbery, petrolheadedness etc.

For me I want it to be

- functionally effective -no point in an MX5 for visits to garden waste tip and DiY shops

- reliable - starts goes stops when I want. Adequate power for long journeys, refined

- comfortable and reasonably equipped - gizmos and bling low on priority list

So I have tended over the last few decades when I had to fund motoring to buy new/almost new mid range Focus, Astra, Octavia. Covered by warranty for around 3 years. Consider for replacement when car approaches increasing costs after 6-7 years and 100k+ as replacement and failures start to loom. Not nececessarily major items but the aggravating suspension steering bushes, pumps and motors (a/c units, wipers, windows, seat motors), clutches etc etc.

All - When to change your car - Big John

. Consider for replacement when car approaches increasing costs after 6-7 years and 100k+ as replacement and failures start to loom. Not nececessarily major items but the aggravating suspension steering bushes, pumps and motors (a/c units, wipers, windows, seat motors), clutches etc etc.

Indeed my(er now my sons!) 17 year old Octavia had been nearly bullet proof for 16 years (just service items/brakes an exhaust, battery and a couple of bushes and a CV boot) . Has suddenly become a little needy as of late:-

Clutch

Rear drum back plate rusted through where the whole back plate assembly needed replacing including wheel cylinders, back plates, shoes, drums, springs, levers, fitting kit. This nearly wrote the car off but found a site that did fully assembled back plates for 67 Euros! (Skoda wanted over £200 just for the back plate, not with any bits - each!)

New Radiator

New Top engine/gearbox mount

Rear spring went boing (just repaired Friday!)

And now a coil pack as the car dropped onto two cylinders - fortunately not far from base. It's a wasted spark twin coil now with a big hole in the side!

Maybee should have got rid when the clutch gave up (was only cheap though) , nothing very expensive but have had quite a few in a row. My son is running it now - well he will be when a new coil pack arrives. I suppose I've a bit of a soft spot for it as I've owned from new, body is really good as well.

If the coil pack demise has nuked the CPU then it's game over anyway!

Edited by Big John on 02/09/2018 at 22:08

All - When to change your car - daveyK_UK
Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.
All - When to change your car - focussed
Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.

Unless it's a Honda diesel.

All - When to change your car - Engineer Andy
Keep diesels for 3 years from new (or pre ref), normally part ex them the day before the warranty runs out.

Unless it's a Honda diesel.

...or you use it as it was intended (i.e. predominantly longer distance driving on faster flowing roads) from new and keep it well maintained (I'm talking going annual oil services/changes as a minimum), not the extended intervals as per some manufacturers' 'recommendations'/service indicators.

Most, even the not so good ones, still run perfectly fine if well treated. Its just that are far more susceptible to use for short trips from cold, abuse and unsympathetic maintenance than diesels of old.

If more people bothered to do a reasonable amount of research prior to buying and bought the right type (including powertrain) of car for their requirements, used and maintainied it properly, then many of them wouldn't need to change them so often. I would put this laziness at near the top of the REAL reasons people HAVE to change their car, right up there with keeping up with the Joneses to have the latest/best car around.

All - When to change your car - mss1tw

If it helps, Japanese aren't immune from this. My 03 CRV with less than 90k miles needed a grand to get through this years MOT - sticking rear brake caliper/carrier, rotten backbox , other than that consumables though like 2x front tyres, tracking and pads, which is fair enough.

The good thing about an older vehicle is that I don't feel bad about thrashing it - I still service it with fresh oil and filters every 5 - 6k and don't abuse it as such, but I'm certainly not precious about it.

All - When to change your car - Engineer Andy

If it helps, Japanese aren't immune from this. My 03 CRV with less than 90k miles needed a grand to get through this years MOT - sticking rear brake caliper/carrier, rotten backbox , other than that consumables though like 2x front tyres, tracking and pads, which is fair enough.

The good thing about an older vehicle is that I don't feel bad about thrashing it - I still service it with fresh oil and filters every 5 - 6k and don't abuse it as such, but I'm certainly not precious about it.

Not bad for a 15yo car!

My 12yo Mazda3 suddenly went from just having routine servicing to needing over the last two years and soon:

  • Major brakes overhaul - £650
  • New Clutch - £675
  • 4 new alloy wheels (I downsized from 16in to 15in to save 40% on the price of OEM replacements and was near [5-10k miles or so away] to needing the tyres changed anyway - the overall cost was only £100 more than just replacing the 16in alloys on a like-for-like basis, plus my insurance dropped by £25!) - £600
  • Needing soon (still driveable, maybe for another year or two if I'm lucky) a new power steering pump - £900 (ouch);
  • Similar - soon to need new springs and shocks (next couple of years/10-15k miles) - £No idea, Mazda don't make OEM replacements any more now.

Just glad the engine is as good as it was when new. Hopefully with the above done and rust not accelerating, then mine might last over 15 years. Whether I would still be its owner, that's the $M question.

All - When to change your car - mss1tw

Not bad for a 15yo car!

My 12yo Mazda3 suddenly went from just having routine servicing to needing over the last two years and soon:

  • Major brakes overhaul - £650
  • New Clutch - £675
  • 4 new alloy wheels (I downsized from 16in to 15in to save 40% on the price of OEM replacements and was near [5-10k miles or so away] to needing the tyres changed anyway - the overall cost was only £100 more than just replacing the 16in alloys on a like-for-like basis, plus my insurance dropped by £25!) - £600
  • Needing soon (still driveable, maybe for another year or two if I'm lucky) a new power steering pump - £900 (ouch);
  • Similar - soon to need new springs and shocks (next couple of years/10-15k miles) - £No idea, Mazda don't make OEM replacements any more now.

Just glad the engine is as good as it was when new. Hopefully with the above done and rust not accelerating, then mine might last over 15 years. Whether I would still be its owner, that's the $M question.

Yup - that's why I gave it a chance and spent a lump on it - but I won't be doing it again. The PAS pump had better behave itself!

The way I see it, even the legendary indestructible Hilux can get dodgy brakes and rusting silencers. I only do routine service myself, I won't touch brakes etc. In this case it ended up being the whole carrier assembly. I couldn't have fixed that myself.

Most of the costs we get with decde plus cars will be labour costs!

All - When to change your car - FoxyJukebox

If you are a responsible owner, doing 10,000 miles a year,and have a reliable independent garage locally-then any car will easily last 10 years-and more if you are careful. Just be prepared to allow slightly more £cash for maintenence.

All - When to change your car - Ian_SW

With my previous car, I started to look for replacements when it no longer seemed new. That was when it was about six years old and with 80k miles. Looking didn't take that long though, once I'd been told the max I'd get for part ex was about £2k, I realised I may as well keep it until something goes wrong.

Three years and about 40000 miles later I did get rid of it, and still got £1.5k for part ex. The car was up for sale on Autotrader a couple of weeks later at a small dealer for £3k. It never needed any major work in that extra three years. What made me get rid of it was a niggly problem where it didn't run right for about 2 minutes after a cold start, and I got few up of sitting on the driveway waiting for it to stop stuttering in a morning. It clearly wasn't a major fault though as the subsequent owners put another 60k miles on it before it dropped off the MOT history (so presumably scrapped) when it was 15 years old.

My current car no longer feels as good as it was when new, now it's nearly 7 years old and 90k miles. I'm not going to even bother going near a dealer this time as it will be worth next to nothing part ex again. I may as well wait until it goes wrong, which could happen any time from next week to about 5 years time, and depending on how it goes wrong I'll either get £1k for it if it still works or £100 at a scrap yard. Either way, I'm now in the cheap phase as far as depreciation is concerned.

All - When to change your car - FoxyJukebox

Yeah-I got £1500 trade in for an 11 year old Audi A3 with 80,000 on the clock --then fumed when i saw my old car sitting on a forecourt with £3k price tag a week later. Got my own back though-checked the MOT site a few months later and saw that although the vehicle had passed it's next MOT on second attempt( just), there was an evil list of very expensive advisories that I would not have ignored. That, plus a scheduled cam belt change and gawd knows what else-was the new owner's responsibility-not mine!

All - When to change your car - Andrew-T

Yeah-I got £1500 trade in for an 11 year old Audi A3 with 80,000 on the clock --then fumed when i saw my old car sitting on a forecourt with £3k price tag a week later.

That sounds about par for the course to me. Any 'respectable' trader would put a mark-up of at least a grand, to cover profit, warranty, goodwill freebies and any comeback from a fussy punter. You could have saved a good deal of it by selling privately ... :-)

All - When to change your car - Hugh Watt

My thoughts exactly, A-T.

All - When to change your car - FoxyJukebox

Sadly not much-a shrewd well researched private buyer would have sussed the condition and asked the right questions that I would have found difficult to give anything but honest answers.

All - When to change your car - Andrew-T

Sadly not much - a shrewd well researched private buyer would have sussed the condition and asked the right questions that I would have found difficult to give anything but honest answers.

In that case you had no real reason to fume, as you were not surprised .. :-(

All - When to change your car - alan1302

Yeah-I got £1500 trade in for an 11 year old Audi A3 with 80,000 on the clock --then fumed when i saw my old car sitting on a forecourt with £3k price tag a week later.

How much do you think it should have been listed for?

They have to make a profit, pay wages, rental of site, customer retunrs for warranty repairs, taxes etc

All - When to change your car - carl233

I do not understand peoples thinking if a car is of low value they tend to write it off when repairs exceed the market price. As an example in the family an old Mondeo diesel was purchased for £1000 just under. After replacement of the DMF, fuel pump various consumables to a cost of a little more than the purchase price it has done over 150k miles since without any increased notable deprecation just based on standard servicing. People need to be a little more engineering savy and understand what some vehicles are capable of in terms of long-term ownership.

All - When to change your car - piggy

I do not understand peoples thinking if a car is of low value they tend to write it off when repairs exceed the market price. As an example in the family an old Mondeo diesel was purchased for £1000 just under. After replacement of the DMF, fuel pump various consumables to a cost of a little more than the purchase price it has done over 150k miles since without any increased notable deprecation just based on standard servicing. People need to be a little more engineering savy and understand what some vehicles are capable of in terms of long-term ownership.

Totally agree. Provided the dreaded iron oxide has not taken a hold then there is no reason not to spend more than the perceived value of the car. Of course, if the engine or gearbox are living on borrowed time then it might be a different matter. Repacing brakes,alternators etc.make perfect sense if you know the important items are sound.

All - When to change your car - sandy56

An ongoing problem is people seem to think that servicing and repair of a car are optional, and they run a car until it breaks down then wonder why they now have such a huge bill. Some ongoing maintenance will keep most cars going a long time.

The other argument is cars have become so complex that any failure can lead to huge repair bills, until eventually the owner gives up paying good money to incompetent garages.

The only current solution for the average car buyer/owner seems to be buy a reputable Japanese or Korean brand and look after it. But I see HOnda are coming in for a lot of criticism of the latest CRV. The old argument of don't buy a new model in its first version still seems to apply. Wait until version 2 or 3, and hopefully the mistakes will have been fixed.

All - When to change your car - Alby Back
Rule of thumb only, but I tend to keep mine until they've done 200,000 miles, which equates to about 5 years. Seems to work, not had any nasty bills following that method.

Having said that, a Mondeo I sold at 200,000 back in 2010 still seems to be taxed and MOTd and apparently had 336,000 on it when it was last tested.

Wife's car is 10 years old but only has 72,000 on it so that has a fair bit of life left, all being well. I keep asking her if she'd like to change it but she's not bothered as long as it keeps doing what she needs it to do.

I think the trick is to buy with your head not your heart, choose something that ticks all your "need" boxes and at least some of your "want" ones and you'll not go too far wrong.
All - When to change your car - corax
Having said that, a Mondeo I sold at 200,000 back in 2010 still seems to be taxed and MOTd and apparently had 336,000 on it when it was last tested.

Very impressive, of course whoever bought that was lucky finding an owner such as yourself - good long runs, serviced and driven properly.

Any idea of what it's failed on MOT wise since you sold it, if at all?

All - When to change your car - Alby Back
Seems to be fairly minor stuff, suspension links worn etc.