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Engine oil - which brand? - Metropolis.

Evening all, i'm interested to hear, for those of us that do our own maintenance (or at least supply a mechanic with the oil we want to be used) what engine oil you are using. Anyone have preferences?

For me, I tend to stick with Castrol, although I'm not averse to changing, it's more familiarity than anything. I note Bearmach have just released their own oil, now trying to find out who they've rebadged it from.

Engine oil - which brand? - Oli rag

I buy what ever brand is on offer at the motor factors I use, providing it is the exact grade and ACEA spec needed.

Engine oil - which brand? - craig-pd130

I buy what ever brand is on offer at the motor factors I use, providing it is the exact grade and ACEA spec needed.

Exactly this. As a result, I got 2 litres of Castrol Magnatec synthetic for £12 from Tesco recently, for topping up our two Corsa E petrols between services (the oil meets GM's Dexos spec, as well as BMW's specs for my car in case it's needed).

Both Corsas use a little oil between services, as my son has the mechanical sympathy of Andrea de Cesaris (remember him?) and my wife drives like Michele Mouton on Pikes Peak.

For my bike, when an oil change is due (every 3,750 miles) I get whatever bike-specific oil that meets the JASO spec from one of the oil factors on eBay. Current Shell Advance Ultra, £22 for 4 litres delivered, which is a heck of a lot cheaper than anything from the local bike shops

Engine oil - which brand? - Chris M

Likewise, I'll buy whatever is a good price at the time as long as it meets the spec. I usually go for QX (ECP) or Comma from local factor, but I have bought ASDA and Halfords and other non premium brand. IMO regular oil changes are more important than using £10 a litre brands. And of course, use a decent brand filter.

Engine oil - which brand? - Andrew-T

Oil is pretty much like fuel really - it comes in a few basic varieties (mineral, semi-syn and fully synthetic) and if your engine does not call for special characteristics, use whatever comes to hand. Otherwise shop around for the right stuff. Brand is probably a very secondary consideration.

Engine oil - which brand? - gordonbennet

I usually buy in bulk packs of 20 or 25 litres, invariably Millers, Fuchs, Morris, Shell, the last batch on offer was Elf.

Engine oil - which brand? - craig-pd130

the last batch on offer was Elf.

Well, as long as you've got your Elf, that's the main thing :-)

A few years back when I had my Suzuki GT380, a local filling station was changing from Total to Shell and was disposing of all its shop stock. I picked up a case of 10 litres of Elf synthetic 2-stroke oil for £25 (it was £10 per litre). I still had a couple of bottles left over when I eventually killed the engine.

Engine oil - which brand? - gordonbennet

I still had a couple of bottles left over when I eventually killed the engine.

Er thanks for that, i am filled with confidence about the 20 litres of Elf oil sitting in my garage following your result..:-))

Engine oil - which brand? - craig-pd130

I still had a couple of bottles left over when I eventually killed the engine.

Er thanks for that, i am filled with confidence about the 20 litres of Elf oil sitting in my garage following your result..:-))

Don't worry, it was a holed piston that killed it, nowt to do with the oil.

39-year-old crank seal wasn't sealing very well anymore, causing a slightly weak mixture on the left cylinder. Turned out to be too weak for sustained full throttle in 6th gear = melted piston crown with aluminium splatter everywhere in the bottom end. b***** 2-strokes :)

Engine oil - which brand? - focussed

You have got to run two-smokes rich to keep 'em cool - just on the margin of a rich misfire is best, gives 'em more oil and more fuel which when evaporating cools 'em down.

Engine oil - which brand? - craig-pd130

You have got to run two-smokes rich to keep 'em cool - just on the margin of a rich misfire is best, gives 'em more oil and more fuel which when evaporating cools 'em down.

Yep - I knew the seal was a bit marginal, it had been for years, although the bike still ran very well. But that day, I couldn't resist giving it the berries. C'est la vie.

Engine oil - which brand? - John F

Cheapest I can find for the ancient runabout/airport Ford Focus (Wilko synthetic). Expensive Fuchs Titan for the luxury Audi 'forever' car - mainly because it has chain drive cams.

Engine oil - which brand? - Metropolis.
Thanks for the input everyone. I’m not really concerned about the cost,
I can source most oils reasonably cheaply. Just interested in what
distinguishes the different brands, especially when they both meet the same
specifications and claim to be fully synthetic!
Engine oil - which brand? - SteveLee

Mobil 1 is generally the best oil - it has the finest ester base - the quality of which can normally be determined by the cold pour point in the specifications (the lower the better)

As for Castrol, none of their oils are "proper" fully synths - they are fancy blends - but they used their financial muscle to get what can be called synthetic changed - you may as well buy two lots of Comma for the price of one can of Castrol - the quality is no different.

The fact remains that cheaper (correct spec) oil changed between services will double the life of your engine over expensive oil stretched to the full service intervals.

Engine oil - which brand? - Metropolis.
That’s very interesting indeed, thanks!
Engine oil - which brand? - John F

The fact remains that cheaper (correct spec) oil changed between services will double the life of your engine over expensive oil stretched to the full service intervals.

I don't believe this 'fact'. I think it might be merely an opinion. Please provide a link to your source, or experimental evidence.

Engine oil - which brand? - KB.

The fact remains that cheaper (correct spec) oil changed between services will double the life of your engine over expensive oil stretched to the full service intervals.

I don't believe this 'fact'. I think it might be merely an opinion. Please provide a link to your source, or experimental evidence.

Now there's a surprise.

Where have I heard that before?

Oh, yes.... it was here ... about a a million times before in fact.

Here's to another round of "oil changes are a waste of money"

Engine oil - which brand? - gordonbennet

I don't believe this 'fact'. I think it might be merely an opinion. Please provide a link to your source, or experimental evidence.

When i was a young chap way back in the early 70's i drove Transits for a chap, i regularly drive the very first Transit he bought covering many thousands of miles in it, can even remember the reg SNK 179J, a twin wheel flatbed with the low compression 2.0 litre V4 petrol engine.

In those days petrol engines were about clapped out by the time 100k appeared, this van was approaching 200k on its original engine gearbox and clutch, used no oil at all and ran sweetly, which he put down to the once a month oil change he gave it with Duckhams 20/50, so the oil got changed between at 2000 and 4000 miles.

No its not proof as such.

Later when i drove artics i worked for probably the best maintained fleet in the county and one of the best in the country in the 80's, he ran overspecified British lorries with either Cummins or Rolls Diesels, oil changed every 15k and gearbox and axle oils dropped every third service so 45k...engine and drivetrain problems unheard of, they were worked flat out (days before limiters so 70mph was a typical all day cruising speed) on heavy weight work for 7 years when disposed of and there was a queue of owner drivers and small hauliers desperate to get their hands on them...my current lorry's first oil change is due at 90k kms!! (according to the maker, its on full R&M maintenance package), many of the last batch needed engine rebuilds by year 5 (leased) which comes up at around 800k so half a million miles of 55mph max, those old Cummins/Rolls were just getting run in at the same mileage.

Thats not proof as such either, but i have learned much over the years both in commercial and car maintenance, those in the know always say the same, oil is cheap, engie rebuilds plus down time and breakdowns are not.

Engine oil - which brand? - Andrew-T

The fact remains that cheaper (correct spec) oil changed between services will double the life of your engine over expensive oil stretched to the full service intervals.

I don't believe this 'fact'. I think it might be merely an opinion. Please provide a link to your source, or experimental evidence.

Fact or opinion, it makes good logical sense. Any oil gets gradually chewed into smaller bits by hot mechanical grinding, and contaminated with combustion products, so unless you put in some fluid not intended or suitable for purpose, more frequent changes will always be beneficial.

Of course that could be taken to silly extremes, and become pure waste of money and oil. But for DiY, two changes with cheap oil rather than one with oil double the price, will probably give the better results over time.

Edited by Andrew-T on 21/07/2018 at 20:08

Engine oil - which brand? - focussed

In a previous life I have changed the lube oil of hundreds, possibly thousands of engines and gone on to service those same engines. Now retired, I just have to look after my own fleet of motors. Taking our own old L200 as an example, I bought a stock of Lidl motor oil a few years ago, relying on the ACEA and API specs quoted on the label. I had the lid off of the motor a year or so back to do the valve clearance, it's a SOHC IDI diesel with 8 valves, and that is the cleanest top end and valve gear I have ever seen. If Lidl happen to sell motor oil again - go for it.

It doesn't matter what the name is on the can - it's the numbers that matter!

Engine oil - which brand? - John F

The fact remains that cheaper (correct spec) oil changed between services will double the life of your engine over expensive oil stretched to the full service intervals.

I don't believe this 'fact'. I think it might be merely an opinion. Please provide a link to your source, or experimental evidence.

Fact or opinion, it makes good logical sense.

Not for me it doesn't. For the three estate cars we have taken to highish miles (Passat GL5 192,000m, Passat 2.0GL 242,000m, Ford Focus 132,000m) I have used the cheapest oil I could find and changed it every 10-12,000m. It would have been neither logical nor economical for me to waste time, money and oil to change it every 5-6,000m for a doubtful doubling of longevity.

Engine oil - which brand? - Andrew-T

<< Not for me it doesn't. ..... for a doubtful doubling of longevity. >>

John, that is your choice, which as we all know is at the opposite end of the spectrum from Skidpan's. I am somewhere in between. You don't dispute that oil gets degraded and contaminated with use. I didn't claim that longevity would be doubled, only that renewing the oil more often would benefit an engine by limiting degradation.

Some engines, especially diesels, will continue running, apparently quite happily, with the most awful looking sludge in the sump. That cannot be optimal treatment, but it may not stop them running.

Engine oil - which brand? - gordonbennet

Some engines, especially diesels, will continue running, apparently quite happily, with the most awful looking sludge in the sump. That cannot be optimal treatment, but it may not stop them running.

Often exacerbated by leaking injector seals but ths carbonised oil is not only building up all around the crankcase, it's responsible for blocking oil pick ups in the sump leading to complete engine destruction.

Changing the oil more frequently can only help to keep things clean, and i could understand if an oil change cost a lot of money but the average motorist who doesn't mind DIYing an oil change (probably the simplest of all car maintenance jobs), then it costs so little (around half the cost of a tank of fuel or less) that it makes no sense avoiding doing so.

That's quite apart from the number of cars fitted with unfit for purpose regen systems which pump extra fuel in which can end up in the sump, ruining the engine in other ways, again regular oil changes help minimize this issue too.