Some points
1. Assuming you arent replacing all your brake pipes with copper now, you should take steps to preserve the remaining ones, otherwise you may have to fairly soon.
I.d rub them with a lump of crumpled aluminium foil dipped in sunflower oil.
The foil wraps around the pipe to give good coverage (the pipe cuts a groove in the lump of foil), its an abrasive so it'll take some rust off (you can do it first dry if there's a lot) and it generates an aluminium/oil paste which tends to fill in pitting.
The oil eventually sets to a very adherent coating (it contains epoxies) but it takes quite a long time, and in the UK at this time of the year might be vulnerable to wash-off. Might have to re-do it in the summer.
2. A 50 or 60ml enema syringe makes a very good cheap brake bleeding tool. It'll pull or push fluid, or cycle between the two, which is a useful function if there are stubborn bubbles. The simplest brake bleed, however, just uses gravity. Very zen. (I have no experience of using either with ABS though).
3. If I manage to get bleed nipples off without shearing them I clean up the threads with aluminium and then wrap PTFE tape around the upper portion of the threads, along with a trace of silicon grease if I have any, or ear wax if I don't. The tape tends to stop them sucking air during bleeding, and, more importantly, it tends to stop them seizing, You should avoid getting bits of PTFE actually in the pipe because it could interfere with brake operation by acting as a non-return valve flap.
4. Consider DOT3 as an alternative to DOT4, if its approved for your car. Here its about half the price, and its supposed to be less hygroscopic. IIRC it has a lower boiling point, but that's unlikely to be an issue in a non-motorsport context.
Edited by edlithgow on 03/03/2018 at 00:10
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