Forget dash faults,
Get the ABS ECU scanned for faults to be sure.
As to callipers the fronts repond well to "Red Rubber" grease on the pistons and seals.
Formulated for just this thing.
As to the rears I usually find this to be a result of some b***** in the past tightening up the hand brake cable for MOT time.
Which does work in the short term and you get a certificate but completely b*****s up the calliper self adjust system so the rear calliper activation crank does not move enough and so siezes.
My procedure is first slacken the h/brake cable then remove from calliper/s,
then wind back the calliper pistons until fully back in,
Fit pads and refit callipers THEN crank the calliper lever back and forward to advance the piston out the calliper and take up the slack.
Doing this you'll soon discover if the calliper is servicable or not.
Once done then re attatch the cables and adjust h/brake free play to 4-6 notches depending.
Now this might seem a right hoo ha but I seldom need to fit expensive rear callipers and you the customer isn't charged for new parts.
So I'll repeat myself,
OVER TIGHTENING HAD BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTMENT WILL ONLY MEAN SCRAP CALLIPERS!!
|