Its done well, but I reckon we spend around 200-300 in repairs a year. Be it bearings, suspension, exhaust or tires. In the last few months I've had brake pads replaced, and some investigations into fuel smells. Now the other day I unavoidably drove over a rock and hit the subframe and exhaust. So needs a new cat, plus have a leaky shock so both need replacing. Another 500 quid bill. Oh and they say petrol tank is seeping which could explain smell. So my questions are.
Are you sure it's not a corroded fuel filler pipe? madf above has mentioned that this can happen on early cars before.
£200-300 in yearly repairs is a lot less than buying another unknown car that could turn out to be a lemon.
If in doubt with your Yaris, I'd buy another. A hard car to beat for low running costs.
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Thanks all for your quick replies.
I guess I'll wait for the MOT, will give it some more TLC in the meantime. I feel as you say with a lemon, that you just don't know what you're gonna buy. We have been lucky with the Yaris, and would consider another, and maybe stick with (around) ten year old models too.
One other question is the cam chain. Is that something that will ever need changing on a Yaris? Is it easy to check?
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What kills cam chains is lack of maintenance. Your 6 monthly oil changes should ensure you don't suffer problems, unless you're incredibly unlucky.
You can never be absolutely certain, of course. But I'd be surprised if that failed.
Edited by RobJP on 02/11/2016 at 14:20
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I see a lot of advice along the lines of it will cost more to repair than its worth. By that gem of wisdom most cars over about 10 years old should be scrapped.
The advice should be, consider the alternative, replacing the car will cost you how much? And if its a second hand car, how much will the repairs be in the first year, considering no used car is sold in prime condition.
Dont count tyres, brake pads or discs, service items such as filters, oil, cambelts, spark plugs or other scheduled maintenance. Mot, tax and insurance, , these apply to all cars new and old.
I've just spent £500 on tyres, new windscreen, new discs and pads and new cat (small hole rear pipe at joint to centre section that the cheap MOT was trying the upsell on and imo trying it on). The car is worth £400 book price, should I have scrapped it? I looked at replacing it - £35,000....with the added bonus of adblue dpf, dmf etc etc
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Thanks all for your quick replies.
I guess I'll wait for the MOT, will give it some more TLC in the meantime. I feel as you say with a lemon, that you just don't know what you're gonna buy. We have been lucky with the Yaris, and would consider another, and maybe stick with (around) ten year old models too.
One other question is the cam chain. Is that something that will ever need changing on a Yaris? Is it easy to check?
If the chain is quiet, it's OK. It has seven (?8? links along the width and is very strong... IF the oil and filter re regularly changed. The tensioner is similar.
No noise = OK.
(A new chain is £150 + in parts and a pia to replace. Done it, don't want to do it again.
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The chain has been rattling for two years so not encouraging. Will definitely get it through to mot and see what happens, and save up for another Yaris in the meantime. :-) . Thanks all, it's got me thinking about cars and maintenance overall... Most of my family all have nice sparkly new cars on a regular basis in our throwaway society and I'm not in a position to do that, and I'm not sure if I want to.
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The chain has been rattling for two years so not encouraging. Will definitely get it through to mot and see what happens, and save up for another Yaris in the meantime. :-) . Thanks all, it's got me thinking about cars and maintenance overall... Most of my family all have nice sparkly new cars on a regular basis in our throwaway society and I'm not in a position to do that, and I'm not sure if I want to.
By rattling, do you mean all the time or just on start up for a split second? If the former, I'm surprised considering your frequent oil changes and I certainly wouldn't be doing anything more than nipping around locally if it's rattling away. Factoring in the £500 for a cat (if it really needs one, likely to just be a hole) a timing chain, tensioners and water pump and your wee car is beyond economic repair. I'd be looking to upgrade to something younger and safer. Another Yaris is a good option.
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One other question is the cam chain. Is that something that will ever need changing on a Yaris? Is it easy to check?
If the chain is quiet, it's OK. It has seven (?8? links along the width and is very strong...
Chains dont snap, they stretch. They stretch due to wear in the link pivots, which is usually down to dirty oil. If the chain rattles, it is stretched beyond the tensioners ability to keep it in tension and being slack, could jump a cog, or come completely off one of the sprockets, both events will probably write the engine off.
Edited by brum on 03/11/2016 at 09:53
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Yaris d4d chain (simplex) - not complex as on petrols - rattles for 2 seconds from cold.. and is then silent. The oil operated tennsioner takes that time to work.
Edited by madf on 03/11/2016 at 10:34
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It generally rattles when pulling under tension or low revs. Assuming that's what it is! We do some long journeys (200 miles plus), and also went to Orkney (two years ago), which was 750 miles each way, so amazed it's still going... tempting fate here.
I'll get saving. £500 was for two front shocks and cat plus labour.
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In that case the chain needs changing....because its been rattling for a long time its also wise to check the sprockets as they may be worn due to the loose chain.
Edited by brum on 03/11/2016 at 12:46
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I was recently tasked with finding a used cheap to run super mini for a friend and the Yaris was one I suggested.
Our local branch of Arnold Clark Toyota had rows of 0-3 year old Yaris's at very good prices with next to no mileages. All cheap to tax, reliable if serviced right and cheap to buy if you avoided the dealer finance and went for a loan at Sainsbury's bank which is currently as low as 3.1% APR for £7,500 or more.
Might cost less in the long run to buy and pay up a newer car rather than buying an older unknown quantity that will cost you more in maintenance year to year and have higher road tax and worse fuel consumption. It all ads up and depreciation is less of a worry if you intend on owning it long term.
Friend ended up getting a 63plate Seat Ibiza 1.2 TSi FR that I managed to negotiate a very good deal on and flogged his Astra for £1k more than most dealers were offering for it. Bit more fun than the Yaris to drive but I'll bet the Yaris would outlast it.
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If you pay for the timing chain to be replaced, you should replace the tensioner as well. Parts costs will be around £220.. and Labour will be around 4-5 hours for an experienced garage#. So your total bill is going to be at least £500.
You can search Autotrader and find LOTS - 224- to be precise - manual Yaris between £1k to £3k with under 60k miles. Some will be local to you.
You may be better off buying a low mileage one like that and selling your existing car. You should get at least £500 as a runner.
# You want someone who has doen it before. It is very likely the gasket which seals the cam cover - and prevents the oil getting into the plug wells will be perished .. Add another £15 or so. The old gasket compound has to be scraped off. There is a risk the camshaft sensor may be damaged if the mechanic is hamhanded (I did not so it is unlikely)
The trouble with old cars is that things cost more as other things go wrong...
Then you should fit a new auxuiliary belt - silly not to when the engine mounting has been removed - another £20+ and so on...
Edited by madf on 03/11/2016 at 14:11
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You can search Autotrader and find LOTS - 224- to be precise - manual Yaris between £1k to £3k with under 60k miles. Some will be local to you.
You may be better off buying a low mileage one like that and selling your existing car. You should get at least £500 as a runner.
And a significant proportion of those will require a new cam chain or other major repair, this class of car is often neglected service wise and run on the stingiest of budgets.
If the ops car is in otherwise good condition, the camchain change will add its to its value, instead of a £500 runner it will be in the 1k+ bracket as a desireable runabout. Probably much more if its had brakes,tyres and mot recently.
Camchains and cambelts are usually supplied in kits with tensioners, I would shop around for a good price and ask local toyota dealer to match.
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Perhaps against my better judgement I've just put a deposit on a 2003 d4d with 78k miles and we shall see. However reading forums I worry if it's done too few miles! Seems OK tho and gonna give it a thorough going over at the weekend. Will sell the 1.0 yaris as a runner and see how we get on...
Anything major to look out for on the diesel? :-)
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Perhaps against my better judgement I've just put a deposit on a 2003 d4d with 78k miles and we shall see. However reading forums I worry if it's done too few miles! Seems OK tho and gonna give it a thorough going over at the weekend. Will sell the 1.0 yaris as a runner and see how we get on...
Anything major to look out for on the diesel? :-)
We have a 2003 one with 60k miles :-)
At this age: glowplugs start to fail...(cheap fix £11 each).
Front anti roll bar droplink rubbers last 4-5 years.. About £15 per side for parts.. (I have replaced mine with Mark1 Focus rear rubbers and bolt - perfect fit and much stronger)
Pollen filter often neglectedRegualr oil (5-w30 semi synthetic) and filter essentia.
No DPF or DMF but the catalyst will soot up with lots of short journeys. I use Shell V Power which solves that.
Check for corrosion at rear. and Mud round fuel filler cap. (hose it out).
Check it is using Toyota OAT antifreeze - pink. If not it can corrode Head gasket. £££s
Auxiliary belt may squeal if loose on cold mornings. Easily adjusted. Check for cracks Ours is 13 years old and OK!
Check all engine hose connections . Water leaks = overheating = Head gasket!!
Nice to drive. Enjoy.
Join: www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/49-yaris-clu.../
where I post as well as here..
Edited by madf on 09/11/2016 at 19:24
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Thanks again. Funny about the glow plugs is that there was an engine light that when I asked about they checked and said it was a glow plug, so they've replaced them all. Drop links I attempted to replace myself on the current car as it looked an easy job, which it was, in theory. Had to get my mechanic mate around to get enough leverage to squeeze the drop links in!
Will take note of everything else so I'm well prepared for the weekend...
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Me again!
So I'm still looking at the Yaris D4D. There's been an issue with replacing the glow plugs and there's still part of one left deep in the recess (They've replaced the other three). Should I just walk away, or take as is (it should run off three?), and try and get it repaired in my own time? I believe that GPs aren't really required in the uk cos of warm temps?
What sort of discount should I insist on as they can't sort out the last GP? 10-20%?
The car is cheap as is, which could set other alarm bells ringing...
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Me again!
So I'm still looking at the Yaris D4D. There's been an issue with replacing the glow plugs and there's still part of one left deep in the recess (They've replaced the other three). Should I just walk away, or take as is (it should run off three?), and try and get it repaired in my own time? I believe that GPs aren't really required in the uk cos of warm temps?
What sort of discount should I insist on as they can't sort out the last GP? 10-20%?
The car is cheap as is, which could set other alarm bells ringing...
Walk away before you buy into an expensive problem.
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Leave it and go buy a younger, less complex petrol Yaris. It'll save you money and heartache in the long run. Diesels at this price range are a complete false economy.
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It will start with three BUT you may end with a permanently lit engine warniing light which is an MOT fail.
(There are ways round it.
( I changed ours after 13 years use about 3 months ago and took time and great care to get all four out without breaking them )
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There are specialist companies who can remove diesel injectors, glowplugs e.t.c without damaging the head, but you'll have to decide whether the rest of the car is worth it in this case.
For example
www.injector-removal-service.co.uk/?gclid=CLuV1sLv...A
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Thanks all. Useful to know about the specialist repairers. Finding a lot of conflicts re EML and MOT failures... Gonna take a final look tomorrow and will make a decision then.
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