I'm sure I once removed the sump of a Kent in an Escort in situ, but it may be different in a Capri and it was an awful long time ago.

I too was going to suggest checking the strainer, but you don't need to remove the sump to do this. Simply hire a top quality endoscope. Drain the oil and use the sump plug for access.

Usually oil pressure problems get worse when the engine is warm!

I remember working on Capri's, Cortina's and Escort's of different vintages including the port side and crossflow kent engine.

If this were the Pinto engine I'd be worried about the oil pump hex drive shaft from the base of the distributer but I seem to remember (it's been while though) that the 1600 ohv pushrod kent engine has an external oil pump that has an oil pump drive that is directy fed from the cam shaft.

Oil filter has been changed - so it's not a blocked filer / emergency valve issue

Pressure relief valves seem OK - so probably not that (although they can be hard to diagnose and cause havoc)

The oil pressure gauge is on the end of a long very thin pipe - so lots to go wrong here including air locks, kinks, leaks . I had one fail - dumping oil gradually into the drivers footwell on a MK II Capri (slipery brake pedal!).Try a close coupled gauge to test actual pressure.

Summary - By the fact it can't be a hex shaft (pump hard to turn when oil cold) and it gets better when warm - i'd look at the oil pressure gauge first but beware sticky pressure relief valves. If it was something more sinister with the engine (big ends, main bearings etc) it would get MUCH worse when oil hot

Unlikely to be the oil strainer on this type of engine and on a Capri removing the sump without raising the engine usually difficult. It's snout (bonnet-ground) is vertically challenged. When building kit cars it was always recommended to fit a sump/oil pickup from a capri or petrol Transit as they had squater sumps

Edited by Big John on 10/07/2016 at 00:27