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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 25/01/2010 at 00:39
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I am looking for travel insurance for me n the missus both have pre existing medical conditions. First time abroad as such. Can anyone point me to a reasonably priced reputable insurer/broker. Currently finding it quite expensive on the quotes.
Thanks in anticipation.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:21
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As well as medical history, age can make a difference. Can you give us hints?
I thought most insurance policies would exclude the medical conditions normally.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:21
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I have the same problem, there are only a couple of medical screening companies that the insurance companies use. So regardless of the initial premium, you will end up with the same supplimental payment. As we travel abroad several times a year we find that annual cover works out cheaper, and if you exclude travel to the USA or have Europe only cover it reduces the cost. Europe only usually covers the countries that have Mediteranian coastlines so covers Turkey and Egypt etc.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:35
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Yeah i rang this company and they said ring this medical screening company they will give you a price then ring me back and we put on our policy (there was a choice of 3). So thanks old navy this is exactly whats happened to me so far. This is my first trip since my bypass 2 years ago. Destination Egypt need some sun and heat. I thought i would ask the BR for any recommendations on companies. I think its allowed on forum.
Changing subject my father has just walked in. Ex RN He was an ERA on HMS mull of Galloway. During national service 54-56.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:41
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Your dad was a bit before my time, I was 60-95 in the RN. Our annual Europe cost about £200, we went to the USA recently so took a seperate 14 day policy for that trip. We are in the process of changing one of our bank accounts to one which covers house and travel insurance for £10 a month but have yet to find out what the suppliment will be for the worldwide travel policy. I won't get this figure for a couple of days but expect it to be the same as usual.
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ON:- you might find it doesn't cover pre existing medical conditions be careful.
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It does, that is the supplement I was referring to, I have yet to contact the screening company as the bank is setting up the policy.
Edited by Old Navy on 20/01/2010 at 21:06
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Currently finding it quite expensive on the quotes.
Apologies if you've tried this already but were you using a comparison site eg.
www.moneysupermarket.com/travelinsurance
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:21
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yeah ive tried all the usual sweeps. Im oldest at 54. Last week i thought i was onto a good one and it turned out in the end to be the most expensive. This was a rock policy through a broker issued by whitehorse. I can't believe how expensive it is just for a single trip.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/01/2010 at 20:22
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How much is expensive?
£25, £50, £100...............?????
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£141
I see what you mean :-(
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We use LV - I have a pre existing medical condition and their quote system lets you do the screening on line.
UK based call centre and they were excellent when we went away last year. As well as my condition my daughter had had a minor op a couple of months before we travelled which had to be mentioned. A quick call to explain and cover was provided and all paperwork stated exactly what we had discussed.
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Cheers davey i will have a go.
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Davey
i went and got a quote at LV unbelievable answer. They quoted £157.80p. But what i found most interesting was the exclaimer at the end.
basically it said if travel is cancelled prior or sickness occurs mid holiday due to my pre existing medical condition (which has been declared remember) i get zilch, amazing that since the premium is that high.
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FB that's what i thought especially for a single trip. But this is new territority for me with existing medical condition. So maybe that's the going rate. I was hoping someone may come up with something.
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I normally use a web-based company called Direct Travel (direct-travel.co.uk).
They have always been very cheap, and their website states that their 'Premier Plus' cover has won some awards with an outfit called Defaqto - make of that what you will!
If you quote and pay on-line, you need to declare your medical condition and you will get a quote which covers everything APART from your medical condition. This is what my dad did on a recent trip.
If you want to be covered for a pre-existing condition, you need to call them up, as they wont quote online.
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Have a look at www.netcoverdirect.co.uk. Another site to try
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Having been diagnosed with a condition last year, I found insureandgo very helpful. I got to them through moneysupermarket but had to phone due to condition.
This was only for a long weekend in Europe but screening was done on the phone and for a 50% surcharge they would have covered the existing condition as well.
HTH
Terryb
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Even with nothing connected to sockets apart from an analogue (line powered) phone, there seems to be a lot of noise on the line, and I don't always get a dialling tone. The noise isn't particularly crackly - hard to describe but it sounds like a microphone is recording sounds in an empty room. People have rung today but the phone(s) haven't rung (they left messages).
To do the online BT line test the line needs to be unused - the PC must be connected via another line, which I haven't got.
So any ideas? I had a quick look at the box outside the front door where it looks like the line comes in and other lines come out to go off to points in the house, but I haven't taken it apart. Nothing obvious on the outside.
Broadband seems fine.
Cheers
F
Edited by Focus {P} on 20/01/2010 at 21:24
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I had a similar problem recently, an intermittent fault. I reported it to BT and they checked the line from the main junction box about 1/2 a mile away to the nearest underground access in the street and eventually found the fault in the line from the street to my house. They fixed it by changing to a different pair of lines into the house, (the cable has 8 cores) so several spares. BT's problem, get them to fix it.
Edited by Old Navy on 20/01/2010 at 21:34
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BT's problem get them to fix it.
Thanks ON. I'm just want to rule out anything inside the house in case BT find it's not their problem and charge me for coming out.
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Focus if you are happy to e-mail me the phone number I'll do an online test for you.
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Focus if you are happy to e-mail me the phone number I'll do an online test for you.
Many thanks PU - I'll do that.
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I'll need to confirm that the line is not in use - synchronize watches for a test 21.45 ?
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Test done response sent by e-mail. Suggest you report it quoting the reference. Have you tried swapping out ASDL filters (assuming you have broadband) ?
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The criteria that BT use for faults is they are responsible for everything up to the master socket in the house, everything from there on, extensions etc, they will fix but charge for. They should not charge for callout if the fault is on their side of the master phone socket.
Edited by Old Navy on 20/01/2010 at 21:44
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Find a friendly engineer and he will 'do' inside for beer money.
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With PU's help the line test indicates that 'the problem is likely to be with BT's network' with an expected repair date of 22nd (Friday).
Many thanks to PU and others.
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I know several people who have been experiencing broadband problems recently. I suspect that blown snow on top of the very wet autumn has affected junction boxes, only one of which between you and the exchange needs to be faulty. If you have a noisy phone on a broadband line, changing the microfilter can help. More expensive 'active' MF's are supposed to help, too.
A friend of mine still has aluminium phone wires to his house, installed during a copper shortage in the 70's! They don't work very well either...
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When the line into my house was faulty only the phone was effected, BB was fine and at normal speed.
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When the line into my house was faulty only the phone was effected BB was fine and at normal speed.
Yep, that's what we've got (phone not right even with nothing else plugged into any other socket, including microfilters).
BT gave an expected fix date of today - we're still waiting...
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I've just bought a new electric oven to replace my old one which went pop.
I have a wall mounted double pole cooker switch, with an adjacent wall plate containing a 13A 'normal 3 pin plug type' fuse, which must have been ok for the old oven. All this terminates at a consumer unit with a dedicated line for the oven.
New oven installation manual states fuse must be 15A to 20A. I can't find them in B&Q, Focus or Homebase. I've seen some on the net, but they are much larger than a standard fuse.
Any ideas if a)13A would be ok, as its erring on the safer side, b)where I can get hold of a fuse?
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>>13A would be ok, as its erring on the safer side>>
I would suggest that is the opposite of what you mean in view of a 15A to 20A fuse being mentioned.
Try the outlet where you bought the oven for an appropriate fuse, but check with them first that your dedicated line is suitable for the purpose.
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The dedicated line is suitable, as each core (2 core & earth) is 6mm^2, and the oven is 3kW.
I'm asking the question, as I need to use the oven between now and whenever I get the fuse, which will most likely be online mail order, if someone can point me in the right direction.
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Presumably the old oven was hardwired into a connection unit fed from the switch? That would be the usual way to wire it in. However if the oven is just 3 kW, then you could safely run it from the 13A socket. But has it got any other elements like a grill, too?
edit -- you can't fit any fuse higher than 13 A in a standard plug.
Edited by dimdip on 21/01/2010 at 00:38
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The old unit is wired 'round the back' of a single 3-pin socket behind the oven, which is fed from the 'cooker' switch. The socket is used to power the electric ignition of a 4-ring gas hob above.
The documentation states 3kW, but also stipulates a minimum flex size and fuse size -'For UK only'.
Well if you cant fit a fuse higher than 13A in a plug, it would also be true for the wall mounted fuse holder into which I'm trying to source a 15-20A fuse for.
To be clear:
Cooker switch looks like this: tinyurl.com/yeotw4m
Adjacent fuse holder looks like this: tinyurl.com/yb5ybxy
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Please ignore the above, as I was being a bit thick.
The fuse holder I am talking about is nothing to do with the oven, its actually there for some under wall cabinet lights!
I've just checked the consumer unit in the hall, and the circuit breaker marked 'cooker' is rated at 20A.
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edited accordingly ;)
The old unit is wired 'round the back' of a single 3-pin socket behind the oven which is fed from the 'cooker' switch.
This is an odd installation because the 3-pin socket limits you to 13 A / 3kW, but cookers and ovens usually need more than this. The normal way to wire an oven in is to have heavy cable going from your big switch to one of these: tinyurl.com/ylnxnfb so no extra fuses other than the main fuse/breaker in the consumer unit.
Edited by dimdip on 21/01/2010 at 01:46
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It may be the way you describe it but as dimdip says this sounds wrong. The cooker cable should go from consumer unit to cooker switch to wallplate lowdown behind oven. The 13a spur is usually just for the hob supply.
The cooker cable shouldn't arrive via the rear of the 13a socket as it wouldn't have the terminals rated correctly for a cooker even if the cable was only piggy backed in-out.
This 13a socket would either be a spur from the cooker or part of the 13a ring main but in either case would be under capacity.
Bear in mind these days you shouldn't be doing this work unless an electrician tests and certificates it.
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BTW the above assumes the house has a proper cooker supply that will take a double oven and/or elec hob even if just a single oven was fitted when the place was built. Single ovens with a gas hob are sometimes fed from a 13a socket behind the oven with a cooker switch above the worktops and then the gas hob elec ign on a 13a socket or 13a fused spur.
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My first flat had a fitted electric oven which was plugged into an ordinary 13a socket which was 'hidden' in the adjacent fitted cupboard.
Should point out it was a basic single oven, although it did have a fan.
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The dedicated line is suitable as each core (2 core & earth) is 6mm^2 and the oven is 3kW.
I take it that's answered your own question, and the thing relies on the MCB in the CU.
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I have a 3kw 'top of the tank' immersion heater that is fitted with a 13a plug.
It doesn't blow the fuse, but the fuse obviously turns into a mini electric fire and the plug gets very hot after 20-30 minutes.
Sounds like you need a 15A switched spur for your oven.
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It doesn't blow the fuse but the fuse obviously turns into a mini electric fire and the plug gets very hot after 20-30 minutes.
Something wrong there, c_t. The flex connections inside are probably oxidizing, causing increasing heat. It's a positive feedback effect until it catches on fire...
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Thanks for all the replies. Its now sorted.
Oven is wired to its own dedicated 20A rated supply from my consumer unit (via a 45A cooker switch, and a new cooker connection box behind oven).
Hob is now plugged into a normal socket.
Thanks again
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Can anyone recommend any business contact management software for logging customers, calls etc.
Ive used Ambercat and Sage Preact in the past. I was thinking of buying the new version of Preact which is about £180. Can anyone recommend any alternatives that maybe a bit cheaper?
thanks
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Our company uses Salesforce www.salesforce.com/uk/
They call it 'Customer Relationship Management' or CRM software - perhaps a search on that might throw up more possibilities if that's what you're after.
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Our company uses Salesforce www.salesforce.com/uk/
BTW sorry but no idea how much it costs.
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Most basic package is £3 / user / month. The Group package (up to 5 users) is £11 / user / month.
(I've no connection to them by the way).
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Another vote for Salesforce. Having the system online can occasionally be frustrating as it's not quite as fast as a system on a local machine would be, but it's hugely outweighed by the fact that the system maintenance and setup is all done remotely and can be relied on. It's also very straightforward for a whole team to work on one data set.
Very useful.
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Do cats recognise their territory/possessions purely by visual appearance and smell, and not position at all?
During a recent springclean our cat's bed was moved to the other side of the room. Afterwards, the cat came in through the catflap and went straight to its bed, seemingly without even glancing around.
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I think it's smell more than anything.
Ours adopt a cushion and during the winter I have been known to put a favourite cushion on the floor under a radiator for them.
When I throw it back on the sofa they always find it wherever it lands!
There are benefits to working from home in the winter, I spent a pleasant lunch break yesterday playing 'fetch' with a furry toy mouse and our Siamese :)
Pat
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I hope you were throwing the mouse and not the Siamese!
;-)
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:) He thinks he's a dog and comes when he's whistled too!
Pat
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>>He thinks he's a dog and comes when he's whistled too!>>
Every cat I've ever had came when whistled - it's connected to the fact we always had a dog as well. In fact one of the cats used to go for long walks with us and the dog on the local sands and marshes.
But a cat is just as easy to train to come to the whistle as a dog.
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That's why then Stuart, these had lived with a dog all their lives before they went into rescue.
Pat
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Cats are very long-sighted, and do most close-work by smell. They use their whiskers, too, especially when tormenting some innocent mouse.
Be ineresting to try them with reading glasses...
Edited by J Bonington Jagworth on 22/01/2010 at 16:25
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We've just found out that there isn't a 'final completion' certificate for an extension that was added to our house about 9 years ago. The council are sending someone round next week, and they didn't sound particularly concerned, but should I be? That is, are they likely to tell me to demolish it?
(Planning permission is ok.)
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I wouldn't expect there to be a problem unless there was any deviation from the original plan.
I assume your council won't be charging for their visit next week?
Clk Sec
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I wouldn't expect there to be a problem unless there was any deviation from the original plan.
Don't think so...
I assume your council won't be charging for their visit next week?
They didn't say anything...
Thanks.
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I got a Completion Cert a few weeks ago for a job started/finished in 2005. The builders had not called the Building Control guy at the end. He came, looked for 30 secs, said "fine" and went. Cert came a week later, for no charge as I'd paid up front.
It was only when I came to sell the house that the solicitor prompted me for it, and I realised I'd never even had it.
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My own (second hand) experience is as ONB. My solicitor - when buying - requested the completion cert. The chap apparently turned up and signed it off and went away.
Clearly he hadn't looked at it at all as the building regs were flouted at every turn! But I had that piece of paper which was all that mattered.
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I got a completion certificate, unexpectedly, in the post the other day. It was identical to the one I received five years ago!
I questioned the statement 'our building inspector visited your premises recently' as no-one had been round and they'd need to gain access to view the building.
I got a load of old guff. I expect someone got a travel claim paid at my council tax expense.
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SpamCan said: "It's one of those Sony sets that probably won't work properly post DSO"
Can you expand, SC? Once you've got a set-top box in the chain, then DSO shouldn't affect the TV, should it?
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Agreed it should be fine with most Freeview boxes in the setup, it's just that the integrated Freeview tuner in many of Sony's early iDTVs can't cope with current / forthcoming changes to the Freeview broadcasts. I did post a link to the official list a couple of volumes back, I'll see if I can find it again in a mo.
EDIT:- the link's here:-
update : OK the naughty list is linked from the first post in this thread:-
www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=898328
Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 22/01/2010 at 17:01
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See:
tinyurl.com/yes3jvu
www.digitaltvadvice.com/site/faq/
www.digitalspy.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3059157...=
There are other sources of information. It affects other brands, not just Sony, whether it's a TV or a set top box.
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Are washing machine taps (internal ball, 90° turn, plastic lever) meant to be either open or closed, or can they be used to regulate the flow?
I want to try and prevent pipes from rattling when the solenoid valve in the washing machine snaps shut. The problem only started when we had some plumbing alterations done and the "plumber" (!) used flexible tap connectors on the basin taps and the toilet cistern. It obviously resulted in pipes somewhere being inadequately supported.
Next time, if the plumber wants to use flexible connectors he won't get the job. And I wouldn't have another push-button toilet cistern because these stop the flow abruptly, unlike the ballcock type which tapers off the flow as it approaches the closing point.
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I wouldn't have another push-button toilet cistern because these stop the flow abruptly, unlike the ballcock type which tapers off the flow
What shuts off the flow abruptly is a 'Torbeck' valve (or similar type), not necessarily the fault of the push-button lavatory cistern. I had to fit one after SWMBO complained she could hear the cistern filling and dripping during the night and it kept her awake.
Your washing machine will probably have a flexible supply pipe as well.
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L
we have push button toilets and they are virtually silent, bar the flush itself. And as they're modern low volume things that doesn't last long, but it is effective. First time every time if you know what I mean! :-) So it's not the push button that's responsible.
JH
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Off to Finland for a long weekend on Friday; how would the BR recommend I purchase £100 worth or so of Euros?
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Post Office seemed to have a good deal going......
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Or mug an innocent foreign tourist and get them for nothing.
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Where we live, the local Co-op travel agency usually has better rates than the Post Office. The Money Bureau in M&S can be quite good.
But when I then take money out overseas I usually find the exchange rate plus fee gives me a better deal than I got in the UK.
If you have a debit card that is a VISA debit (e.g. Barclays) then you will be charged in a bureau for taking the money out as if a credit card. I learnt from experience once.
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Try the tool on the left column here:
travelmoney.moneysavingexpert.com/
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Thanks for the suggestions and info.
So just one more question: Lud, which do you think would be better - baseball bat, or knuckle dusters? :-)
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I never buy Euros here, I get them from an ATM abroad using my Nationwide debit card. Far better rate of exchange and no fees charged.
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as per robbie but via my satander debit card
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as per robbie but via my satander debit card
Thanks Robbie/bb - place where we're staying is basically just a hotel so I'll have to check whether they have an ATM and if so whether it charges for cash.
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A sinister leer is all you need.
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Off to Finland ... £100 worth or so of Euros?
Only intending to get one round of drinks in then?
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Only intending to get one round of drinks in then?
:-)
Yes, I'd heard it's not cheap. Seriously, any idea how much a drink at a hotel bar will cost, given that I don't think there are any shops nearby?
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Some good tips about Finland in a book called Uneasy Rider - darn good read as well !
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If you have a look at Wikitravel you will get info on Finnish costs and travel.
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>> Only intending to get one round of drinks in then? :-) Yes I'd heard it's not cheap. Seriously any idea how much a drink at a hotel bar will cost given that I don't think there are any shops nearby?
It's not as bad as it used to be, it became significantly cheaper post EUR conversion; I recall paying 26 FIM for a Lapin Kulta #3* in 1991 ( about 3 quid at the time), from what I recall from my last visit it wasn't much different to a London pub price wise, unless you're in some fancy nightclub. Nowhere near as expensive as Norway.
* the higher the number the stronger the beer, I think they still do that.
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I bow to better knowledge. Its a few years since I was there and I was horrified by the prices But then I would probably be horrified by central London prices as well.
£100 doesn't go far anywhere these days though. All those incidental costs add up. Cafes, bus/taxi, etc.
Beautiful country though (as is all scandinavia), I'm quite envious.
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Finland isn't part of Scandinavia ;-)
I recall paying the equivalent of a quid each for Mars Bars back in '91, that was painful! Certainly some wonderful sights,and an intensity to the light that reminded me of Cornwall. I took loads of photos, film was one of the few things that was cheap in those days. Supermarket beer ( the aforementioned Lapin Kulta or Koff) was priced at about the same as UK pub prices, so not too painful. No decent cheese or bacon to be had though. Buses were pretty cheap,taxis quite dear - but then it's ten years since I spent much time there so my data is of dubious value!
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A constant diet on the car radio of Factor Got Talent Idol glorified karaoke singers has caused me to reassess my listening requirements while on the move.
The CC3's radio has an aux in socket, so I think it's MP3 player time, but which one?
My plan is to load most of my audio CDs and buy the occasional downloaded album to freshen things up a bit.
Apple's iTunes website has been recommended to me as being good for both tasks.
While I understand you could use any MP3 player, if I'm to be using iTunes quite a bit, I'm leaning towards an iPod - I just think I'm less likely to come across compatibility problems if I match hardware and software.
The iPod Classic at nearly £200 is above budget, but a Nano looks pretty good to me.
I reckon my CD collection would fit in 8GBs, but I'll probably buy a 16GB machine to give some headroom - certainly doesn't need to be any bigger than that.
So, is an iPod Nano as good as there is in a 16GB player?
And if anyone can point to any potential pitfalls in my plan - or come up with any improvements - please feel free to do so.
I'd also be interested in any comments on sound quality, I'm sure any player would be fine for the car, but what are they like when connected to decent hi-fi system?
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i use a 2gb player that powers through the ciggie lighter and you tune the radio to it,it comes with full remote and came via china for £18 ish
reason i say this is
a..nobody wants to steal it so i leave it in the truck/car
b,,,its easy to load in linux or microsoft
c,,,,its so quick to reformat and drop new songs on from your media player that you dont want the hassle of crashing as you search endless albums while on the move
just my take
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c its so quick to reformat and drop new songs on from your media player that you dont want the hassle of crashing as you search endless albums while on the move
Yeah,I did try my daughter's 20 GB Zen Touch in my car, but navigation is much too tricky on the move, so I just use a 4GB USB key drive in the stereo, then I can navigate with the proper stereo display and keys.
In terms of sound quality the Sony players are generally well regarded, usually some on the Argos ebay site going cheap:-
tinyurl.com/ycrtym2
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I'd personally recommend an iPod touch because it's much more than an MP3 player. You can surf the web (with a wifi connection), watch movies, read books etc. And lots lots more because of the apps you can download. Current iPod touch will also run TomTom with the car mount providing the GPS.
Combine an iPod touch with something like the 3 mifi mobile wifi router and you have Internet access anywhere.
Personally I think 16Gb is a nice sweet spot for space etc. But I have books (Kindle and other ebooks), videos, etc.
What I will add is when buying MP3's then Amazon and Tesco can be better value. And both are DRM free.
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You won't go far wrong with an iPod nano. Good hardware, good user interface, good PC software. See www.TrustedReviews.com for others. T'other option is to buy a portable DAB radio such as the Pure Highway, and listen to Planet Rock or whichever specialist station floats your boat.
Edited by Leif on 24/01/2010 at 19:03
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Iffi. What you are proposing is exactly what i have done. I bought an I Pod nano , i think its 8gb. The CRV came with the aux input socket. On the net i purchased the lead that connects from the socket to the i pod. This lead actually came with a charger and another lead all for about £10 ish delivered. Like you i had loads of CD's i downloaded them to the I pod via the I tunes store. Its all easy to do . Only comment i would pass is you need a bit of time. But its great you can create your own playlists, put them in whatever ever order you want. Youll actually enjoy it when you get into it. My recommendation I Pod Nano. I got an i tunes voucher bought last xmas and you just go onto the i store and purchase a song/cd or whatever you want simples.
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Dump your mobile phone, and get a 16gb iphone 3gs. It does the Mp3 job perfectly and you have a phone as well all in one really good looking and very user friendly package.
I hate Apple products with a passion, but I worship at the altar of the IPhone. Its ergonomics and useability is superb.
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...er Ipod Touch c. £150. or about 4 months of a lowish tariff for an Iphone 3gs.
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But you pay the tariff for the iPhone for 18-24 months!
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Which was the point I was making!
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you are paying something for your existing mobile anyway, you dont want to leave your Itouch or your phone in your car cos some scroat will have it away, so you carry both around with you. Make it one piece of kit rather than 2. Get an Iphone.
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Which was the point I was making!
Ooops. Sorry.
Another reason to have a phone and MP3 player is listening to music does not result in a flat phone battery.
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I have an Iphone and the battery life is very poor.
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You're obviously not playing your music loud enough.....
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Does anyone know if it is a legal requirement when you buy something from a shop in the UK for them to send a written invoice, or is an electronic one (i.e. an email) sufficient? Thanks.
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>>..or is an electronic one (i.e. an email) sufficient?>>
I've always been quite happy with an e-mail type invoice. In fact some of the biggest on-line companies use this method.
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In fact some of the biggest on-line companies use this method.
No written invoice as well?
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I rarely get written ones. Whats wrong with an electronic one? Cost pence to print and you have a copy should you loose it.
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No written invoice as well? >>
They should send a hard copy if you need one. I bought some HP stuff from Dixons.co.uk last year, and HP had a £50 cash-back voucher offer that required a copy of the original invoice for redemption. I emailed Dixons and they sent a hard copy by return post.
Edited by jbif on 24/01/2010 at 21:04
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Normally all the information you require is included in an e-mail invoice, including the order number etc if they are required in future. Just print off one or two copies as required.
I pay most of my utility and other bills on-line and such invoices have always proved perfectly satisfactory.
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This 2010. Email invoices are legal and acceptable.,
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can anyone advise on a good set of speakers for the kitchen. Im thinking of in-ceiling speakers, but will these provide decent base? Budget is around £150.
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theres lots of room between the voids for the bass to be good
i used car speakers for this job with rubber roll surrounds,main thing is use good quality wiring not bell wire like i did :-(
or you could hide a bass bin behind the fridge :-)
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can you use car speakers? as these are a lot cheaper than normal ceiling speakers.
Is yours wired up to a car hifi or a normal hifi?
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normal hi fi i have 2 in the kitchen and 2 in the bathroom on switcheable circuits
its an old aiwa prologic receiver with an old cassette deck and a sony cd player that i put together from old components so we can listen to vivaldi or the sex pistols while cooking or taking a bath,system been used a good 5 years now,its at the top of the cellar steps so its out of the way,ive also wired a scart socket up from the kitchen telly so the sound is better than from the telly speakers (maplins sell phono cable and plugs so its quick to solder up)
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Bose make good in ceiling speakers.
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