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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 21/01/2010 at 00:06
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Cotoneaster franchettii.
I wouldn't have a holly in a small garden, the leaves are a problem.
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Cotoneaster franchettii. I wouldn't have a holly in a small garden the leaves are a problem.
I agree im not a fan of hollys, ive already taken 3 out. They seem to sap all the goodness out the soil.
How about a Bamboo? They are quick to grow and look quite pleasant?
Cotoneaster franchettii looks good. Thanks.
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How about a Bamboo? They are quick to grow and look quite pleasant?
Bamboo is OK if you can get it to grow properly. IME it may or may not, for reasons that are not at all clear! To remove bamboo, you need either a JCB with an agressive operative, or a stick or two of 80% blasting gelatine.
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Gelatine ?
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Yeah, FT went to the Deliah Smith school of explosives in Norwich.
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Yes. You can use a search engine to find out about it.
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Recommend tree for garden
I looked to be going to have a similar but worse problem before the neighbour was forced to fit obscure glass. You can press for obscure glass in all overlooking windows that are in extensions built under the 50 cu metres permitted development law of last October. Although such windows as in your problem may be permitted as being distant.
So I went to a garden center called Architectural Trees that only sold mature ones.
I needed one with foliage above 6 feet but a clean trunk below that, so as not to lose too much light as it was going to have to be planted close to the property.
You can buy such ones and all sorts of others. Not cheap, circa £400, but at least you get a quick solution with something that, hopefully, is not going to need a lot of maintenance like a fast growing one. I was thinking in terms of an evergreen camelia.
If you can get to one of these nurseries, it is well worth a visit if only to discuss your options.
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Thanks for that. With planning for a wedding & buying the house i cant really afford to buy mature tree's. I have already brought a few plants last year in the sale, hoping that they will grow a bit. I did buy 2 bamboo (they are 4 foot at the moment in pots)> I hadnt thought of using them in that space previously but maybe I already have the answer to my problem.
The soil is quite poor at the back where the holly trees have been but I believe Bamboos will grow in almost anything.
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I believe Bamboos will grow in almost anything.
That's a wonderful belief. It seems to be quite pernickety, IME, sometimes growing in unexpected places, and sometimes going TU in the most carefully prepared situations.
How did this get into the "Oil C. Heating Continued" sub-thread? Perhaps a mod. will fix it...
Oh. I see, someone *has*! That was quick...
Edited by FotheringtonThomas on 12/01/2010 at 20:33
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As an alternative solution, have you thought about increasing the height of the fence a little at that end of the garden perhaps with trellis that you can grow a fast growing climber through (don't plant Russian vine though) and putting your main sitting out area at that end too so that when you are relaxing, you are screened?
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PU, you've done realy well to get through 9 months on 1000 litres of oil. I refuse to have the c. heating till Dec 1st and the thermostat is set to 62f and guarded by Rottweillers armed with ricin tipped darts (or me) and we will get through maybe 3000 litres a year, but we do have an oil AGA.
Tip: Boilerjuice.com is good for buying oil which varies considerably. Just stick in your postcode and it finds the cheapest near you.
When I moved into our house 12 odd years ago it was 16p a litre, more like 45p plus.
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There's an IHAQ somewhere where I tried to get a decision on setting timers especially on hot water - in the end I did - I also now close all the doors in the house as well as upgraded my loft insulation. Bosch serviced my boiler lat year and I'm convinced that economy improved after this. I won't have the heating on whilst in bed - I hate that dry mouth it gives you....
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You can reduce costs considerably if you get together with neighbours and put in your orders for oil together - means the first time some have to have less than normal, but then it should even out. Like everything, the more ordered the cheaper it becomes.
We used to have an oil fired Rayburn cooker, which also heated the water. Unfortunately we did not have central heating (rented house) but I did love cooking on the Rayburn. Great advantage over the Aga, apart from size, it that you can set the oven temperature and the covers on top are square and flat so excellent for both drying and 'ironing' small items of clothing/teatowels etc.
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4 Bedroom detached house - Just figured it out this morning - it has cost me £11.00 week for heat and water since September 2003 when we started keeping records. Not at all bad. That includes Summer and Winter use and the ups and lows of oil prices.
If you plan your fills properly - something I sadly fail to do you can fill when kerosne prices are low in te Summer. At least by buying a 1000 litres now I know how much my heating bill will be for next few months.
Edited by Pugugly on 13/01/2010 at 12:44
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>it has cost me £11.00 week for heat and water since September 2003 when we started keeping records.>>
That's very impressive.
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We used to pay more than that for gas at the last property - and we had a fixed rate from years ago. Maybe oil isn't so expensive anymore compared to gas.
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Just to back up what I saw Martin Lewis (of MoneySavingExpert) say on TV the other day, utility companies have been introducing cheaper tariffs to attract new customers. It's worth checking out if one of those might be cheaper for you, even from the same company.
I've just checked my Eon account, and they let you compare the current tariff you are on with their others. First on the list was one with exactly the same gas/electricity prices, but a 16% 'online discount' instead of the 2% one I get now, which would make a significant difference to our bills. So I hit the 'apply' button, then 'confirm', and it's done. Easy as that.
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Cor, thanks Focus. I'm with them too and have copied your switch. Very nice.
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Cor thanks Focus. I'm with them too and have copied your switch. Very nice.
In the feedback they requested I suggested they might like to tell us when they introduce new products...
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I've not gone down the energy price comparison route before.
Anyone care to suggest a site, or are they all much the same?
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Always good advice from Martin Lewis's MoneySaving Expert website:
www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/ which includes a link to:
www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/you-switch-gas...y
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Thanks Stu.
I'll give those a whirl - haven't the heart to try any more than that.
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All well and good, but doesn't it just illustrate what a load of spivs they are.
'If you notice there's a cheaper tariff, you can have it. If not, we'll carry on charging you at the old rate'.
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All well and good but doesn't it just illustrate what a load of spivs they are.
Maybe, but then there aren't that many companies that go out of their way to reduce the amount you pay them; I think the way Eon make it so easy to switch makes them better than average.
'Caveat emptor' - buyer beware, as always.
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I have a Fellowes P50CM cross-cut desk shredder. I have been doing quite a bit of shredding lately (destroying the evidence ;-0) and I am getting a faint squeak from the machine.
What if anything, can I lubricate it with?
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Graphite powder? Though if it's belt driven that's not going to help.
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I've also got a Fellowes c-c desk shredder, but without the accompanying squeak.
I would guess a quick squirt of WD40 would resolve your problem, but it might be worth contacting Fellowes first.
Clk Sec
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Castrol R30, if you're vegetarian. 3-in-1 spray if not. ProGold Prolink chain lubricant if you rabidly shred large wodges of stuff in your machine.
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WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a solvent. 3-in-1 spray grease. Or special shredder oil - available at any expensive stationers.
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>>WD40 is not a lubricant.
I bet it would stop the squeak, though.
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Get a proper cage for the mouse.
Cheapskate.
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Please ignore my WD40 suggestion above. Fellowes website, support section, gives all the advice you'll need regarding lubrication, including, writ big, DON'T USE WD40.
Shows how much I know!
Clk Sec
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I killed a shredder just before moving house - getting rid of old paperwork like statements etc. I did use some normal oil on it for a bit but the problem was more to do with how the cross-shredding action worked - it would end all tangled up.
You can buy lubricating sheets that you shred I think. They are expensive but I ended up buying a new shredder in the end! I recall reading a suggestion of lubricating after each bin full! I filled many black bags in the end.
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WD40 is not a lubricant.
I didn't say it was. Come to that, I didn't even *mention* WD40. Eh?
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WD40 is not a lubricant.
This was probably a reference to my post.
Clk Sec
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Thanks for the helpful replies.
I have used olive oil impregnated sheets of paper. It seems to be better, but not completely squeak-free.
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Well, do you?
My latest success was to haggle £10 off an electrical appliance priced at £150, by telling the sales assistant (truthfully) that Argos sold the same item at £140 and by asking whether he could match the Argos price. Of course I didn't tell him that Argos (and Comet and Currys to name but a few) were out of stock!
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What exactly did you buy?
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I will usually ask an independent retailer for a discount for cash if spending £100 or more. And I normally get it.
Clk Sec
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I always haggle when buying things over £100ish, especially if they are electrical goods. Big highstreet stores know you can get it cheaper on-line, so there is always room for manouver.
However, last time I haggled I got nowhere (last week, Currys wanted £284 for a PVR, Amazon had it for £150)
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>>Amazon had it for £150)
We've been buying quite a lot from Amazon lately; particularly Christmas presents. Can't fault their service or their price.
On a a couple of occasions in December we received our goods the day after placing the orders. And that was based on their standard delivery charge.
Clk Sec
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John Lewis do a price match (to real shops not online) but they need to send someone to check.
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JL's service is second to none - My three year old telly has developed a fault - not only are they replacing it with a new version of the same model, they're crediting me money to reflect the price drop over the last two years - I could have found it cheaper at the time but I went for the reputation !
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Curry/PC world - the manager can cut 10% off anything over 100 quid.
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I bought SWMBO A Bose docking system, no one seems to discount these but I got 5% off from my local store 249 down to 237, if you don't ask you don't get. I tried House of Fraser in Guildford , before xmas he said they may do something in the sale from Boxing day - isaid find out what it will be and we'll do the deal today - no was the response - even though I said I only do shopping on xmas eve !!
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I have my eye on a Bose Sounddock Portable at £349 in JL. Have been watching it since November in the hope it would go on sale. I am still waiting but in no hurry....
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>>Curry/PC world - the manager can cut 10%
That's useful to know. I must admit it wouldn't have dawned on me to ask either of those.
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Also before you venture out go onto VOUCHER website's and see what discounts are available, elsewhere and at Curry's etc and use these to negotiate - also try Sainsbury's prices very competitive - but I'D still prefer to use local shops than the big boys - but at prices I'm happy with
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I find Currys a bit easier to haggle with. I bought a 19" TV about 1 year ago, got £20 off. They are the same group as Dixons, but they wont price match with them, but they did get close enough for me to buy the TV from Currys.
Comet also are quite good, bought a TV & Video a number of years ago, and got a discount. I also got 3% discount off an SLR (film) camera at Jessops.
As always, you really need to speak to a manager.
I always get better discounts when the shop isn't busy and I can build raport with the manager (look lost, and ask q's on various products, then go in for the kill after you have steered him towards recommending the product you already had in mind)
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>>I find Currys a bit easier to haggle with. >>
You may get a modest discount at such high street stores (I wouldn't touch any of them with a barge pole), but you might wish that you hadn't gone to the trouble of buying from them if the goods in question go faulty.....
Independent retailers, especially if they are members of a buying group such as Euronics, can usually match or come near high street prices, but generally provide considerably higher levels of service and customer attention.
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...Independent retailers can usually match or come near High Street prices...
An independent who I have known for many years told me some of the retail chains demand - and get - from the manufacturers slightly lower spec models which they can sell a bit cheaper.
The example I was given was a cheaper power supply fitted to a branded television.
Things like that don't show up on any spec sheet, which makes it very hard to compare like with like.
My indy said he had quite a few sets come in for repair after about 18 months which had been sold by one of the sheds.
None of the ones of the same make he sold at the same time failed.
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In fact at one time, the power of a large multiple chain in the UK was enough to make some manufacturers exclude whole ranges of products from the independent supply chain
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>>None of the ones of the same make he sold at the same time failed.>>
One of the reasons is that independent dealers normally deliver large screen TVs which are kept upright and not knocked about - contrast that to the rough handling of some of the couriers delivering sets bought on-line.
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last time i was in one of those emporiums mentioned wanting to replace a broken down freezer not only was i told we dont do discounts they couldnt even deliver until at least a week later
i had been in a few months earlier buying a large ish item for cash and the girls couldnt hack counting 20"s she was only used to debit and credit card transactions
i went to empire direct paid the same price they offered on line went to the warehouse and collected my goods (pity they went bust due to the recession and yes i know richersounds bought the trading name)
its online all the time for me these days
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If you get a 2 lt bottle of fizzy, and pour it into a jug carefully, without creating any froth - and then do it recklessly roughly how much less drink do you get when it settles down, or is there no difference and if there is what , goes where ?? I was asked by my 8 year old just before bed and I said I'd have the answer by the morning, but don't want to buy/waste 4 lts of fizz - so over to you BR'S - CHEERS
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I suspose conceivably a minute amount of liquid my be lost in the careless pouring through bubbles escaping the jug and bubbles hitting the side of the jug and evaporating but very hard to measure unless under lab conditions.
This is however "bloke in pub" grade advice, hopefully a liquid engineer will trot along soon.
AE or BBD, could you do the honours with a "nice pair of jugs" joke please? Thanks
Edited by Nsar on 15/01/2010 at 20:53
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There will be a difference, but I guess you cant measure it in a jug. Carbon Dioxide is in the drink as as liquid under pressure, when the pressure is released, the CO2 turns into a gas and enters the atmosphere, which would cause a reduction in volume.
The amount of volume change would depend on how much CO2 is in there in the first place.
Liquid Co2 has a density of 770g/ml
E.g if there is 10g of CO2 in a bottle, the as a liquid it would take up 10/770 = 0.0128ml, which would be the corresponding loss of volume when the gas was released.
(I think!)
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Liquid Co2 has a density of 770g/ml (I think!)
Unless you found it in a black hole I suggest it is a thousand times lighter than that. :-)
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Oops! It would be a very heavy bottle of drink if it was 770g/ml!
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Turn it into a science experiment. Do a rough handling and a smooth handling, and weigh the difference.
or for NSAR - "WAY HAY" the difference.
Edited by Altea Ego on 15/01/2010 at 21:17
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You've surpassed yourself
Edited by Nsar on 15/01/2010 at 21:19
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I have one for you AE:)
Natural science may well solve a problem that has had me stumped for at least 20 yrs.
Please bear with me because lorry drivers suffer from boredom when driving long distances and the mind wanders!
I used to collect crates full of homing pigeons until I had an artic trailer full of them, and then drive them up to the north of Scotland where they were released ( they always got home before me)
Now this is where it gets silly.
When I was fully loaded they were surprisingly heavy in the trailer so...............supposing all those pigeons decided to take flight in their cages and 'hover' in the available space, would I weigh the same as if they were perched?
Yes, I know there wouldn't be room for them to do that, but as I said, please humour me and give me a definitive answer.
I thought I'd puzzled it out one dark night on a long trip down to Sennen to load potatoes, and then I got thinking about the down draught from the flapping wings, and what effect that would have on the gross vehicle weight?
Thanks in anticipation of the scientific answer:)
Pat
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This is an old conundrum. I think the gross weight of your truck would be the same whether the pigeons were hovering or not. If they were hovering there would be a nett downward force on the cage/truck equal to the weight of the pigeons, caused by the movement of the air. There has to be an upward force on the pigeons to allow them to hover, and for every force there is an equal and opposite reaction.
In the above I may have wrongly used the words weight and force interchangeably but I trust you will not chastise me for this sloppiness!
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Ah but....supposing some of the pigeons were able to glide on the current of air flowing through their cages provided by the forward movement of the lorry? They wouldn't be flapping now would they? ( can't believe I'm now wondering about this too....cheers Pat ! )
:-(
A similar thing has occured to me when you see a car with a load on its roofrack. Especially something like a mattress which is clearly trying its inanimate best to free itself from its shackles. Does the car get lighter by dint of lift as speed increases? Could it, for example, drive further across thinner ice thus equipped?
Too dark and dreich outside yet for car washing !
:-)
Edited by Humph Backbridge on 16/01/2010 at 09:33
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re Humph mattress. With any aero device correctly configured, (and the mattress is in this case so configured) it will affect the car so yes it will try and lift the car.
This is undesireable, so if you feel it happenning to you car while transporting the said mattress, then simply turn it upside down so it provides downforce....:0
re pat, This is the same conundrum as the lift plunging to the bottom of the shaft, if you jump upwards at just the right time of impact at the bottom, will you escape uninjured.
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Well, I think the big question this now begs is what speed would a Morris Marina 1300 coupe equipped with a king size mattress on its roofrack need to be doing to achieve flight? Assuming of course that the mattress's angle of attack could be varied by means of a system of ropes and pulleys naturally.
I think we need AS here. He'll know.
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Austin Rover will need to have calculated the V1 and V2 and Vr speeds at various QFE's and Temperatures. This then of course needs to be adjusted to take account of the number of pax, the luggage, the in journey catering and the fuel on board.
Edited by Altea Ego on 16/01/2010 at 10:09
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To make things simple, let's assume there's one pigeon on the back of Pat's truck.
And that pigeon is sitting on a set of scales, which correctly read 400g.
If the pigeon takes off, the scales will read zero.
I think the same thing will happen if Pat's truck is moving or not.
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OK.
Consider the same pigeons inside a 'plane in flight.
Does the weight of the 'plane change between them all perching and all flying around?
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This was covered in the mythbusters programe episode 77 in 2007
Adam and Jamie constructed a large box and placed it on top of scale and then filled it with captured pigeons. Then, the MythBusters activated a special contraption that would force the pigeons to fly into the air, but they could not detect any discernible difference in the weight of the box. They then placed a model helicopter inside the box and had it hover above the ground, but this method also failed to produce any results. The MythBusters theorized that the air being displaced by the birds' wings and the helicopter rotors was pressing down the box, which is why there was no change in the overall weight. All was in compliance with Newton's third law of motion.
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So beating the sides of your pigeon filled truck with sticks to keep them airborne whilst driving over a weak bridge will be a futile waste of time......It will still plummet into the river.
Ted
Edited by 1400ted on 16/01/2010 at 11:24
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I like your explanation AE, but if I use Ted's method will I reduce my fuel consumption and carbon footprint?
Pat
Edited by pda on 16/01/2010 at 12:56
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I like your explanation AE but if I use Ted's method will I reduce my fuel consumption and carbon footprint?
Hardly, scaring the pigeons will increase the guano deposited by the pigeons.
Also there are H&S implications. There is no-one driving the wagon while you are hanging on the sides banging the pigeon boxes, and the extra guano is heavy in nitrates and hence explosive.
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Re: Lift. If you were able to launch yourself upwards in such circumstances, you'd probably be able to clear the building in a single leap.
The better thing to do would be to lie flat on the floor of the lift, unless you fancy your thigh bones going past your shoulders at the point of impact.
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Nsar, even better if you can persuade anyone else in the lift to lie down under you!
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Does £250 sound about right, eg. www.quick4hips.co.uk/id6.html ?
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Seen them offered for that price round here too. It is cheaper if you pay for them yourself as estate agents have a hefty markup.
I actually thought about going into the HIP business but its completly the wrong time at the moment.
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Depends how fast you want your home on the market as well. I could get ours done last year via an online company (so less) but they'd call to make an appointment within 48 hours. The local company the estate agent used could do it sometime soon. Via the estate agent (so pay more) the HIP was started and a mini-HIP available in 24 hours. So the house went on the market within about 4 days in total.
Yes I probably could have saved £100 or so... but in the scheme of things that's small money.
£250 by the way sounds about right. Even if you go via the estate agent, you're likely to pay the vendor providing the HIP.
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>>> £250 by the way sounds about right <<<
Affirmative ... wifey says £2-300 depending where you go.
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its normally £295
having first hand knowledge of a few guys who now do this and have an iq of 10 its very reassuring that our govt initiate these things for us thick home buyers
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HIPs are definitely a waste of time. They could have been useful but the government copped out and what you get is largely ignored. But you need a HIP to market a property. The one that did ours do them "from" £199+VAT. Depends on freehold/leasehold and probably a few other things.
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Thanks guys.
Sometimes the cheapest prices don't include the EPC eg. in my link above (saves £50).
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I have designed a new flyer in Photoshop Elements 5.0 and converted all the text to curves. It all looks fine. I then printed it and it looked fine.
I then converted it to CMYK using a 12 year old copy of Corel Photo Paint and the final result looks fine. Again I printed and no real issues, I had to adjust the colour a bit to compensate for the CMYK conversion process. Now I am confused in terms of colour is the nearly converted CMYK image the same on my screen as will be printed at the printers?
I am going for a run of 5000 for £70 to start off with in case it goes wrong. I don't know a about printing methods. I am also keeping it single sided as I have found double sided ones can get a bit wordy. I just want to keep it very simple and plain but attractive.
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"is the nearly converted CMYK image the same on my screen as will be printed at the printers?".
Probably not though with any luck it won't be wildly out. You're into the wonderful world of colour calibration. Have you ever calibrated your screen? That is, have you ever used a calorimeter on it? If not then how do you know that what you think is "red" isn't actually blue? OK that's a bit extreme but you get the idea.
Ask your printer what he needs in order for the colours to match. Most people cross their fingers and it works well enough.
JH
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My previous design many years ago worked out fine, I lost some of the vibrancy but it was never a problem. My previous design was far too wordy and suspect most people just chucked them in the bin. My new design is no gimicks, just this what we do and this is our number. It is an experiment really.
It is also a little dig at a competitor who has been putting through A4 B/W leaflets which are written like a technical manual for assembly language :p.
And no my monitor is not calibrated but been using the printer as a guide (an expensive way of doing it though!). The colour does not have to be exact, e.g if a red comes out darker then its not the end of the world, I have put leyway into my design to allow for slightly out colours.
I am doing a short run so then I can make changes then if I know its sucessful I can order much bigger quantities. 5000 seems to be the sweet spot.
I just hope the printer is ok with it, don't fancy wasting any more time on Photoshop.
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Rattle,
Have you made sure there are no spelling mistakes in the text?
Like it or not, some of your prospective customers will take less notice of your flyer if it's full of howlers.
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Rattle, as you know the technology/process for a screen is nothing like that for printing. RGB vs. CMYK for colours for a start. Unless you've calibrated your screen then what you print at home probably does not match what you see on screen.
But is the design such that if the colours are slightly different it will matter?
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I know why the problem exists :) It is just made even more complicated by the fact Photoshop Elememnts dosn't support CMYK but I have got round that. The design is such that colours don't matter too much, 10% out is fine, any more than might cause problems.
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So why's this in IHAQ instead of computer... getting a bit computer related now and not discussing the RGB vs. CMYK colour space.
Why not go to the printer with your laptop and ask them... might be able to do a sample print on a calibrated printer before they do the full production run.
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Indeed, I have got three different people to check it :) One with A level English from 1974 (my mum).
I would never dream of producing advertising material with any spelling mistake or typo.
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Rattle, see:
www.calibrize.com/index.html
www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
majorgeeks.com/Monitor_Calibration_Wizard_d3912.ht...l
There are other similar freeware examples.
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It was really about the printers end of thing rather than the computer side which I have got sorted. Just wanted to know more about how it works at their end. I realise they have to make up the inks up and everything but how do they go from a TIFF or PDF image to a something printed via Litho?
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Thanks :) I assume if I can get my RGB monitor to match the colours of my CMYK printer then what I see on my monitor should be the same colours more less of the final print?
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Not necessarily. Are the colours on your printer calibrated? Are you using cheap replacement inks? I've had problems with colour reproduction with some cheap ink.
I think I would try to calibrate my display as best as I can (you probably don't have any hardware devices to do this), make sure I am working in a colour space that the printing company can also work with and create a PDF or Postscript file for the printing company to use.
I am sure they have proof printing available before doing a run of 5000 flyers.
One of the reasons Apple Mac's became popular was there was an Apple laser printer that handled Postscript so proof's could be created before sending the PS files to the printers.
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Inks are all genuine :). Its a new HP all in one wireless photosmart.
Will calibrate my monitor (TV) tomorrow. Thankfully each input as its own colour settings so if I change the colour on my PC it won't effect the TV Input.
This one of the reasons as well why graphic designers were switch to TFT because the early ones had rubbish colour separation.
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Rattle, stop talking about things not related to the original question. And this should have been in the computer thread really.
Just supply the printers with the file in the format they need and ask for a proof print. They'll sort out converting it to a format suited for their printing machinery.
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Moving into a 1950's house that has a chimney breast with a gas fire coal effect already in place. We are looking to take that out and replace it with a modern gas fire, from looking on the web I beleive we need a fluless gas fire, something like this.....
hwww.firesgalore.co.uk/product.php/235/ck-fires-ais...e-
flueless
Some website state that you cant mount a plasma TV above the fire? Is this correct as ive seen many pictures on the web and in brochures of such installations.
Whats the best fire to use if mounting beneath a TV?
N.B. The fire will be mounted on an outside wall in the lounge.
Help/advice appreciated.
Edited by audiA6tdi on 17/01/2010 at 01:50
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you shouldnt mount a TV above a fire, despite what you see in "lifestyle" advertising or articles.
TVs are designed with airflow from the bottom up. The airflow IN needs to be cooler than ambient, and your TV internals would rapidly heat up to the temperature of the output of the fire, with all the relibaility issues this would bring, not to mention the dust and crap being drawn in.
In short its a recipe for TV disaster.
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In short its a recipe for TV disaster.
Could you repeat that!
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