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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/01/2010 at 17:51
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Further to my previous post about having an extension - this is now in full swing of planning and hope others have experience of underfloor heating, to be used in the kitchen and study.
Roughly how much does it cost / sq m and how effective is it compared with rads .
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If its electric underfloor heating you,re thinking of having i,ve heard it,s very expensive to run and has a slow recovery rate. I,d be thinking of putting radiators in there.
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my mate just moved in to his warehouse conversion flat and he has underfloor heating, he now has to work an extra day each week to keep on top ( literally) of his heating bills
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media.rightmove.co.uk/11k/10703/10703_27903_IMG_00...g
Looks like an extended wall on the left hand side - is it just ornamental, or structural?
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It looks:
a:structural
b:hideous
I assume it has some flues in it?
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Thanks AE :-)
We don't know anything about it yet - just doing some tentative house hunting and this one had more things going for it than most.
Edited by Focus {P} on 26/12/2009 at 10:32
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Agree with AE, probably a chimney flue.
Also regret I have to agree with his views on the aesthetics of it!
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But it looks a lot bigger than I would expect a chimney flue to be.
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Is it just me? or does the roof seem to slope towards it ?
Could it be an attempt to support that end of the house......maybe area not suitable for underpinning ?
No idea about building though...so only a wild guess.
Ted
Edited by 1400ted on 26/12/2009 at 13:43
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Looks like an extended wall on the left hand side - is it just ornamental or structural? >>
Tara, innit?
The picture at DavisTate has a little bit more resolution.
The interior shot of the lounge indicates that that "feature" wall is present in only the front half of the property (confirmed by a google aerial shot), and is used within the lounge as exposed brickwork containing an open fireplace in it.
Edited by jbif on 26/12/2009 at 15:00
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Tara innit?
Thanks jbif - yes, I see what you mean. Still think it looks odd though, never seen anything like it before.
Might go over to see if it looks as odd in the flesh.
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Might go over to see if it looks as odd in the flesh. >>
Proximity of trees to house, not to mention the pub opposite across the road, may also be worth looking at.
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We once almost bought an old Edwardian post office. I never noticed it had a gable end chimney, but there was no evidence of it in the rooms directly below.
A peep in the difficult to access loft revealed about 15 feet of chimney clinging to the gable end. No support at all below it and straight over the bed in the master bedroom.
Thirteen year later, it`s still holding on.
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A peep in the difficult to access loft revealed about 15 feet of chimney clinging to the gable end. No support at all below it and straight over the bed in the master bedroom. Thirteen year later it`s still holding on.
Get Gallows brackets under it NOW or unload it from the roof etc. It could come down and you are dead. Then I won't need to mail ya friend!!
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media.rightmove.co.uk/11k/10703/10703_27903_IMG_00...g Looks like an extended wall on the left hand side - is it just ornamental or structural?
A lot of trees abound.
Is it clay soil?
Does that 'wall' go the full length (depth) of the house?
Is there any evidence of subsidence or heave?
Any cracking around the heads and cills of windows and doors?
Any different colour in the brickwork mortar where a repair may have been carried out?
The house looks like a 60's - 70's thrown together jobby.
Was there a 'grander' house there before?
Is the wall a retention of that?
Have a really good look if you are serious and if you wish you can mail me some decent pics and close up's would be great. I can give a view if you wish.
Good luck.............MD
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Martin
From your offer I presume that you are in the 'game'. My elderley mother lives in a detached 1964 property. She has had UPVC windows replaced a few at a time. The first outfit came to quote for a downstairs large picture window and french doors then said they couldn't do it but didn't explain why. Subsequently someone else came and did the job but I'm certain they didn't fit lintels. Odd jobers have fitted a few more small ones and then a contact I have has done some more. He was going to fit steel lintels but couldn't get them in due to the soldier course of bricks being almost up to the reinforced concrete lintel fitted on the inner wall.
There are some small cracks running along the mortar from some of the windows starting at the top corner of the windows. I have noticed however a couple of cracks running from the underneath centre of two upstairs windows downwards through the stonework which have previously been re pointed but are opening up again.
I have spotted a couple of bricks on one corner just above the DPC have cracked and 'blown' but everything else around appears in order. Internally everything seems OK.
The house is brick built but part of the front is false stone. I don't know if your offer as above is still available to offer some guiding advice before employing professional help.
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Martin I don't know if your offer as above is still available to offer some guiding advice before employing professional help.
Hi FC. There are so many variables and as soon as you mention the sixties that raises hackles. AND it IS a profession and not a game. lol!!
>>The first outfit came to quote for a downstairs large picture window and french doors then said they couldn't do it but didn't explain why. Subsequently someone else came and did the job but I'm certain they didn't fit lintels.
A. Why would they fit lintels when the job was for replacement windows/doors?
>>Odd jobers have fitted a few more small ones and then a contact I have has done some more. He was going to fit steel lintels but couldn't get them in due to the soldier course of bricks being almost up to the reinforced concrete lintel fitted on the inner wall.
I am a little puzzled from your explanation about this. Are you able to send me some decent pics? Close ups too, say from six to eight feet away. Mail them off site if you wish. Mods will sort it.
As for the cracking there are so many reasons apart from the usual subsidence/heave. Lack of wall ties. Incorrect mortar strength. Too short bearing of lintels. ad infinitum.
Where are you based? I am in North Devon so I guess a look is out of the question hence the pics.
Best regards...............Martin
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Martin
My apologies for the terminology, that's why I put 'game' in inverted commas :-S
My limited understanding is that originally window frames were put in during construction and then the bricks just sat on top of the frame and the wall continued upwards. Now galvanised steel lintels should be fitted to support the brickwork and take the strain away from the new frame and that this is a pre-requisite of Building Control.
As regards the internal concrete lintels. From what I could see they were wider than the original blockwork and consequently filled the cavity almost up to outer wall. Infact the inner edge of the bricks were chipped away to leave an air gap.
I will take some pictures and forward. I will be unable to show what I mean by the concrete lintels as the work is now completed. I am in East Yorkshire but rather be in Devon :-)
Be in touch. Many thanks.
Fullchat.
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I will take some pictures and forward. I will be unable to show what I mean by the concrete lintels as the work is now completed. I am in East Yorkshire but rather be in Devon :-) Fullchat.
I've got it now. I was thinking of no front lintel (the brickwork skin). I have seen it, but rarely. This must mean (or should mean) that the original frames were so big in section as to be able to support the masonry above......OR.....is there a thin steel plate in place where a decent lintel should be, although I doubt that.
Any self respecting Builder should be able to carry out these lintel works without problem, but use one with structural experience. By structural experience I mean dealing with scenarios where one is 'intruding' into a standing building and can ensure all necessary propping is carried out correctly. Make sure you have sight of their Public Liability policy and I mean the WORDING of same, not just the front page. Can't take any chances with this type of work.
It sounds as if they have used a 6" x 4" conc' lintel on the inner skin laid 6" flat which in the sixties probably means it was laid the incorrect way. Not just because of the cavity width, but because, to the best of my knowledge they were not stressed that way during that period, although if the building were mine I would not be too concerned by this IF they are of decent concrete and are holing up ok. This way the internal decorations will not be compromised.
When fitting the missing external lintel, masonry from above will be removed and I would take the opportunity to remove enough to inspect the internal lintel and if sound, to ?cut? the protruding 2? off ensuring it doesn?t drop into the cavity, then fit the new External one then make good.
It won?t be cheap, but that?s another matter.
Still send some pics and I?ll look at the structural angle and if you do go ahead and need some advice then don?t hesitate to get in touch.
Very best regards,
Martin (Best Devon Builder)
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>>Still send some pics and I?ll look at the structural angle and if you do go ahead and need some advice then don?t hesitate to get in touch.
Sorry FC. Didn't read the fact that the work is done. Sleepy eyes having got up an hour ago with a whining Labrador puppy.
'Speak' soon...M
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Thanks MD that all makes sense. Be in touch.
Enjoy the puppy :-)
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Have a really good look if you are serious
Many thanks for that MD; we might go and have a look tomorrow. The plan was to move sometime in 2010, but as we're both on holiday we've just been looking to see what's on the market at the moment. No serious plans yet.
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Can any enthusiast of Doisneau tell me the title of a black and white photo, from this description? A jolly middle-aged man, maybe a shop-keeper or artisan, is seated smiling broadly, with his pet duck or goose on a table by his side. I have scanned scores of Doisneau's images on the Web but can't find this one.
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I had a look for you but could not find that image. As an aside you might find it in the Bridgeman (spelling) art archive. Another great art site, but not for photographs is www.artrenewal.org. Almost everything that has ever been painted seems to be in there!
Amazon have a £23 paperback with 365 of his photographs - odds are that yours might be in there?
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 27/12/2009 at 10:15
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I've got a couple of books on post war French photographers.
I've been interested in that period for a long time...a city recovering from the trauma of occupation, must have been exciting to be there !
Can't find any copy of the picture you want, but I found this one of an old duck and a goose in Edouard Boubet's work
tinyurl.com/yj2kq24
Ted
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I have a Supertooth H/F Visor Handsfree - 2 yr old - works with bluetooth Motorola handset OK.
Santa brought a new Samsung Tocco S5230 and the phone cannot see the Supertooth.
Looked on Internet but all I could see was other Visor H/F Kits promising connection to S5230.
Any BR our there solved this?
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Just had the same problem with a new Samsung phone and unbranded Bluetooth adapter. I hadn't remembered to put the headset into Discovery mode - did you?
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Found a site by googling and it had a fullproof/step-by-step approach and, low and behold, the old handsfree and the new Samsung now see each other.
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hi room, i was watching the new freeview channel quest and they were doing an article on railway lines in spain, apparently they now weld together lenghts of track 230 metres long so there are no noisy joints like they used to have
thing is i was taut at school that train lines have /had expansion joints ever so often other wise during hot weather the tracks would buckle.....im confused?
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en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_tracks#Continuous_welde...l
Looks like they just anchor it tightly to the sleepers?
Edited by Focus {P} on 27/12/2009 at 12:58
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I haven't read the whole wiki article - I was under the impression that the rails were streched/tensioned before being firmly attached to the sleepers/ties. As a frequent user of the trains I say that they may use 200ft lengths of rail welded together but one can go 50+ miles and the only clicking will be at points or crossovers.
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I've no special knowledge of this but it's caught my interest - I'd been under the impression that the welded rail, though in longer sections than the old 60ft rail just used longer sections of maybe 200m with some 'silent' lap expansion joints rather than butt joints with a gap - not necessarily so apparently.
I don't necessarily believe everythng I read on the internet, and I've come across a couple of howlers on Wikipedia recently, but there's an interesting description here, albeit that the writer admits to being out of date -
www.grandadsez.co.uk/railways/continuous-rail.html
Edited by Manatee on 27/12/2009 at 13:42
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When travelling slowly or when stationary it is possible to see the welds in the lines and they seem to be vertical rather than lapped.
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As far as I recall the rail is tensioned before being welded. Expansion gradually relieves the tension so that at a rail temperature around 25 celcius it is completely taken up. In very hot weather speed limits may be lowered.
At least on accident in the last thirty years, Bushey c1980, has been caused by rails buckling.
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At least on accident in the last thirty years Bushey c1980 has been caused by rails buckling.
but many many delays and cancelations due to buckled rails since then.
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From time to time I have seen pictures on TV of people using a single ski with a simple framework mounted on it so that they sit to ski rather than stand.
I have spent ages searching via Google for information about this piece of equipment but so far without success.
Does anyone in the BR know anything about these things...what they are called and where I can get more info with a view to obtaining one?
Better still, have any of you used one and can tell me whether they are easy to use...also are they a problem to convey by hand back to the top of the run where no chair-lift exists?
TIA
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A Google of "disabled skiing equipment" with give you plenty of information including this Australian site.
www.achievableconcepts.com.au/Aust%20website/snows...m
I haven't used one and haven't been skiing for quite a few years but I think the lift companies may not take too kindly to able bodied people clogging up their lifts with them.
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Thanks for that reply, Old Crocks.
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'snow bike' or 'ski bike' eg. www.snowbike.us/
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Why no lectures this year? Or have they moved to an obscure channel?
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I've not seen them but they were on. Mother in law watched them. I just checked and it was on More4.
www.rigb.org/contentControl?action=displayContent&...6
so if on More4, then it should be on 4OD.
Edited by rtj70 on 28/12/2009 at 11:03
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Cheers rtj70.
They were on Channel 5 last year and in their usual slot between Christmas and new year.
Funny old world where the lectures have been tucked away in the middle of nowhere while Noel's Christmas Presents is being looped 5 times a day on Sky.
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Lowest common denominator media Dave. Our whole society is now driven by the perceived needs of the weakest minds. You can see the evidence in almost every element of our sorry way of life. It cannot be fought, the best we can hope for is the right to ignore it for now.
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I always thought they were on after Xmas day but they were pretty much finished before Christmas.
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I can't even watch 4OD, it recognises the Polish server and won't let me watch. Heaven forbid that a handful of expats might have the audacity to want to enjoy one of their programmes without paying the licence fee. Cheers Channel Four, you petty, miserable, blinkered half-wits.
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Dave if you can find out where it is I'll record it on DVD for you and post it out.
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That's really kind of you Pug, cheers for that. I'll email you later. Thanks.
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I've found it on 4OD and I'll try and download it on my other machine from which I can burn a DVD
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>>.. to want to enjoy one of their programmes without paying the licence fee.>>
Channel4 is a commercial channel.
The bulk of the TV licence fee goes to the BBC and acquiring a licence also confers the right to receive television and radio transmissions in various forms, including VCRs, PVRs, computer TV cards and USB sticks or other tuner devices capable of providing live programme transmissions.
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"Channel4 is a commercial channel"
... and I watch their ads and buy exactly the same nappies, tellies, toys and cleaning products that you do.
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i thaught that was the deal, you get to watch the re runs but you also have to sit thru the commercials....AGAIN
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My partner and I have recently bought a 1950's detached house. One of the things she is wanting in the new kitchen is an Aga.
Ive looked into the cost and they are very expensive, ive also heard about the running costs to be very high. There is already a new boiler in the property that heats the radiators and hot water so the Aga wont be needed for this.
What are your views about Agas? Do you think its over kill for a 4 bed house average sized house?
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Agas are very deep - from front to back - so you need a lot of room, or a large alcove to shove it back into.
They are also very heavy and need a plinth to stand on.
The 'constant temperature' system can be hard to get on with for a cook used to an ordinary gas or electric cooker.
On t'other hand, they are on all the time, which is handy. Always somewhere to air clothes, warm hands or backside, cosy place for the dog/cat etc.
Aga won't agree, but to me Agas only look the part in older houses, Victorian or earlier, or farm houses.
People will think you aspire to be characters in a Joanna Trollope romantic novel.
Agas do make nice toast - you can buy a special round toasting rack that sits under the hotplate cover.
Have you thought of a Rayburn? They have many of the cast iron range benefits, but are smaller and cheaper, and more controllable.
Edited by ifithelps on 29/12/2009 at 11:53
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Audi, I wouldn't buy one myself, though the house we moved into some years back had one already in it. We lived with it for a while and SWMBO decided she could get on with it and it was staying.
If you want one, buy one second hand, it will be a fraction of the price. Find a good plumber and get him to do the regular servicing. Aga charge the proverbial and took over most of the local servicing companies a few years back. You don't say what it runs on. Ours is oil and cleaning it is pretty simple, just a regular decoke round the burner. We mostly do it ourselves though the plumber (heating technician? What do they call themselves these days?) does it once a year when he does the central heating boiler.
As for running costs, difficult to say as the oil supply is shared between the central heating and the Aga but I'd estimate about 7 litres / day/ I think Aga quote 10 but we keep the heat on ours a bit on the low side. They've just introduced a gadget that reduces electricity consumption overnight (if you have an electric one) but it costs about £2k to have it fitted so I just don't see that as being viable!
It does pump heat into the house all day which reduces the use of the central heating and means the kitchen is nice and warm. You really notice when it's off, even upstairs. That said, come summer... it gets switched off. We have a small electric hob and one of those microwaves that is also an oven & a grill. What with that and the possibility of outdoor eating there's no need for an oven at that time so we're ok.
And I probably shouldn't say this but they're great for doing pizzas! straight out of the freezer and into the oven, no waiting :-)
JH
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I think JH sums up my feelings exactly. Ours was in the house when we bought it - 70s job in sky blue. We live in an old farmhouse so it goes with the territory. It is also against an inner wall so we get heat in two rooms downstairs and the chimney breast in the two rooms above are warm too.
We have an electric cooker as well for big meals and the summer months.
Defintely go for a second hand one - look in the Farmers Guardian there are ads there for them.
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You don't say what it runs on>>
It would be electric or gas.
I think i may have put her off due to the size of it and how much it will eat up in space.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 29/12/2009 at 20:52
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I live in the Aga belt, and have known many owners of said cast iron stove.
They all used a conventional cooker in addition to the range-cooker - which was looked on as one of the family and to be enjoyed.
The most fun was had with the solid fuel types - collecting dead wood from the Moor's (and gumming up the flue!)
I had an oil fired Rayburn in a 1950's Bungalow which cost the previous owner nigh on £12k to install along with new rads and water tank, I found it quite noisy on start-up - sounding something akin to a Saturn V rocket igniting.
My ideal would be a 'live in' kitchen with a traditional range (type) cooker, and I would look toward the Rayburn rather than an Aga, I would also consider the Stanley as I'm not into snob value.
When you compare an Aga to a modern condensing boiler Re: energy use, they should have gone the way of the Dinosaur really but ... if you've got the sponduliks, and you don't buy into all this *man made* climate change - then well, go for it ... and make me envious :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AGA_cooker
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I din't think I'd get on all that well with an Aga. Especially as it will be out of use in the warmer months. I think I'd much prefer a good range cooker (I know an Aga is probably classed as a range cooker).
I do remember the nice warmth given off by a relatives Rayburn in the 80s. Nice to sit next too. But we live different sort of lives now. I'm sure AudiA6Tdi lives a very different life to what he would have in the 70s/80s ;-)
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We have a Yamaha AV amp and surround system, this takes the audio from a digital audio coaxial connector on our Nokia digital box via a coaxial to coaxial cable, the Nokia also has "L" and "R" phono outputs.
I have researched PVR and have kind of decided on a Humax however the 9150 had no audio connectors at all, the 9300 has the "L" and "R" phono outputs, and an SPDIF socket, i.e. not a coaxial digital audio connector.
Any ideas? Could I get an SPDIF to coaxial cable to connect the Humax 9300 to the Yamaha AV amp?
EDIT: Just realised, the Humax SPDIF is optical however the Yamaha optical connector is used by the DVD player, need to research some more I think.
Thanks.
Edited by cheddar on 29/12/2009 at 11:55
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I believe you can get optical to coax SPDIF converters.
www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29293
And vice-versa. But they do need their own power supply so not that neat. Would do the trick though.
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Thanks rtj, I have resorted to Maplin in the past for various connectors so guessed they might have something, I will look more closely at the amp and DVD specs first and see what other connectivity options we have.
Re surround sound, we have had it for a couple of years, watched Ice Age 3 last night, surround sound makes all the difference.
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Sorted!
The Yamaha DVD player has both optical and coaxial connectors as per the amp so I can connect the DVD player to the amp using coaxial and the PVR to the amp using optical.
The amp allows the inputs to be reassigned accordingly.
Thanks.
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Twice just tried ringing the Orange customer services (for mobile PAYG) from a landline and after waiting about 5 minutes to get through got cut off after about a minute of talking to them. Very annoying. Anybody else had this - is it them or me?
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They sound like they are busy hence cutting you off. I thought Orange had poor customer satisfaction ratings so this sounds about right. I'd ring at a less busy time unless urgent.
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I have just gone through hell and back with Orange Broadband. I am shocked at how useless they have been.
Also there is a major flaw with Orange Iphones resetting the outgoing server port so you can't send emails. Orange and Apple cannot say when this will be fixed.
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Any recommendations? If it's PVR-like in function as well (has an "internal" drive), that'd be great.
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Does it have to be a VCR, i.e. video cassette recorder?
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I have some tapes I want to transpose. I had, until rather recently, a cheap-but-adequate DVD recorder (now U/S). I have a PVR, old Thompson DVD400, which is very good. I have a VCR, in the attic I think. I could just buy another DVD recorder, I suppose, and try to hook up the old VCR, assuming it works. I have an old VHS camera, which is OK (and I was able to connect to the defunct DVD recorder, and record straight onto DVD, within the limitations of the length of the wires). I am open to suggestions from the cognoscenti on the best (cheap) way forward.
Edited by FotheringtonThomas on 29/12/2009 at 20:33
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I'd use the old VCR and a new DVD recorder, the combi units I've seen seem expensive for what they do. I do have a Funai VCR/HDD/DVD combi but it's monumentally clunky.
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I replied to this yesterday but for some reason my post has disappeared.
Anyway, the easiest, and cheapest, solution would be to get one of these and burn the DVDs to your PC from your VCR. Easier than setting up a DVD recorder to your VCR.
www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=341048
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I was sitting companionably by the fire, with The Boy, watching Children's TV, earlier today, when I was surprised to hear the announcer say "Christmas is nearly over". Since when? It's got about another week to go, hasn't it?
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It's got about another week to go hasn't it?
Do you really feel Christmas-y after New Years Day? I know I don't :-(
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The end of Christmas is 2nd February. The BBC is talking nonsense... just for a change!
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The Twelve Days Of Christmas end on 6th January. tinyurl.com/y8l33oe
Twelvth Night is 5th January and is when all decorations should be taken down so as not to bring bad luck upon the home. tinyurl.com/y8n6dj4
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2nd of February ?
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2nd of February ?
By then some stores will be thinking about next christmas
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Believe it or not I have a meeting scheduled for tomorrow with a major customer to discuss their requirements for next Christmas's trading....Phew....talk about a merry go round !
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I?m looking to install a media device in a holiday home and i need it to do the following..
I require 4 systems in each of the bedrooms, linked up to a TV to access a central 'hub' for music, video and internet radio. The system can be wireless or wired. Ideally all 4 systems will sync with each other so they won?t have to be updated manually.
I know Bose do a multi-room system but I believe its sound only and not music and their systems seem to be expensive.
Does such a system exist?
I stayed in a hotel once where they had a system called 'Neos' which did exactly the above but it is not available to the public. www.neos.tv/pages/news/news_16.htm
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Maybe a network media player on each TV, something like this:-
www.digital-fusion.co.uk/Inu_products/INU_ProdDeta...9
connected to a PC acting as the media server; although I must admit I don't know what PC software could cope with 4 media streams at once.
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I would build 4 media centre PCs, and one Central server, connected to a wireless hub.
Any reasonably high powered PC will have the capacity to serve 4 media streams. With good quality screens I coudl do the lot for about 2.5 grand
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Have you looked at Apple TV? However, I'm not sure of its 'multiroom' capabilities.
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i969.photobucket.com/albums/ae173/focushj/DSCF0040...g
The pipes go into a radiator that was fitted a few years ago, and although the workmen did a pretty good job, this bit got overlooked. What's the best way to fill it, or should I cover it with some MDF? It's about the size of a electric wall socket.
BTW DIY isn't my strong point :-)
Edited by Focus {P} on 30/12/2009 at 16:46
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1) Get a bit of glass-paper wrapped tightly around a flat thing, such as a bit of planed batten or something. Rub the area around the hole flat.
2) Push some crumpled-up newspaper or similar in, so that you don't have a "bottomless pit".
3) Get some PVA glue (any) and dilute it with water about 5w:1glue. You won't need much - an egg-cup full (diluted) will easily be enough Paint this onto the inside of the hole, or dab it on with a bit of kitchen roll. Clean your brush if you used one.
4) Get some weak filler (polyfilla, plaster,that sort of thing) and squidge some into the hole until it's nearly full (leave about 1/4" (5mm) below "surface". Leave it rough. Wipe off any you got onto your pipes or flat wall. If it's a bit runny, and slumps, fill it up in stages.
5) When that lot's dried, finish it off with more filler - flatten the surface by pulling a straightish edge (old ruler, edge of a DVD box, etc) over it.
6) When it's dry, get your glasspaper on a flat thing again, and rub it down - there should not be much to rub off, 'cos it's flattish anyway (isn't it!).
7) Paint it and the surrounding wall (after preparing the rest of the wall!).
Edited by FotheringtonThomas on 30/12/2009 at 17:08
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Expanding foam. Let it dry, cut it back, sand and polyfilla.
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Thanks FT and Nsar - I must admit I'm tempted by what looks like the simpler expanding foam solution, unless anyone knows of any potential problems for the relatively inexperienced DIYer.
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Try it out somewhere else first maybe ?
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Try it out somewhere else first maybe ?
Yep, good idea.
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It tends to expand quite a lot more than you are expecting it to and do try not to get the foam on you, it sticks like sticky stuff to a blanket. Can do a good job though once you get used to it.
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a little box of plaster as said will do that no problem
as for expanding foam its nasty stuff, an old lady i knew got this on her skin and she had a very very bad reaction to it so even though you get free gloves (latex) with the stuff ive never fancied using it plus its about a £10 for a can against £3 to do it properly as FT said
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as for expanding foam its nasty stuff
ok thanks, I'll have a think about it
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Cut the hole out square and tidy.
Get a piece of plasterboard the length of the hole plus say 15mm longer either end (i.e. 30mm) x half the width.
Fix small screw in centre.
Ease plasterboard into hole having removed the worst of the dust and carp etc. from the back of the edge of the hole.
Holding the screw raise slightly.
Squeeze a bit of silicon mastic or similar between the two parts and pull into place with the screw.
LEAVE it alone.
Repeat process.
Leave 2 days, remove screws.
Fill and sand.
Simples.
MD
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Proper job Martin - as they say in Kernow!
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Put a chair in front of it....:-)
Even more seemples !
Ted
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>>Get a piece of plasterboard the length of the hole plus say 15mm longer either end (i.e. 30mm) x half the width.
>>
I think that is the most difficult part of the plan :-)
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Two questions one is computer related !
1. Anyone recommend a cheap multi-region DVD player or one that is simply hacked ?
2. AppleMac DVD can be changed a finite number of times to Region 1 (5 times I think) is there a way to reset this once you reach change 5 ?
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Answers:
1. Most DVD players have been multi-region for years and those that aren't (the more well known brands) are usually made region free using a set of keys on the remote.
2. All DVD drives on Mac or PC will allow you to change the region about 5 times and then you cannot change it. This is a firmware setting on the drive itself. If you could flash the drive firmware you can probably reset this but I'd set it to the correct region and leave it.
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Thanks Rob - One DVD 1s 10 year old Sony - No known hacks on t'internet - the other is a brand new Sony model again with no known hacks - sadly. My old Lite On machine was hacked but has gone to the big place.
Viz a viz the Apple thought as much.
Reason being because of last years personal crisis I missed season 7 of 24 and need to watch it before 8 starts and region one DVDs are far cheaper on E-Bay
Edited by Pugugly on 01/01/2010 at 16:30
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I watched the start of season 7 (because I had forgot it was starting) using downloaded episodes... didn't feel I was breaking the law because I had Sky 1 so could have watched them ;-)
I am surprised Sky are not re-running season 7 before Season 8 starts.
BTW my original DVD player (probably about 10 years old) was chipped before I got it to make it region free. That player cost over £500 back then! But it is a substantial player with lots of gold plated outputs and separate power supplies for different components etc.
If I were you I'd find a cheap upscaling DVD player (with HDMI output) and make sure it is region free or hackable before purchasing.
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They have re-run 7 but I missed it last week- rarely glance at Sky.
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Reason being because of last years personal crisis I missed season 7 of 24 and need to watch it before 8 starts and region one DVDs are far cheaper on E-Bay
You stick in an extra dvd drive into the PC, and then leave it set to region 1, you can then rip them region free.
Oh I forgot. It an apple mac and you cant
edit.
Get an external USB one.
Edited by Altea Ego on 01/01/2010 at 17:43
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Thanks for that. Will dort it out somehow.
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