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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 05/08/2009 at 19:54
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looking to landscape the garden and i was after ideas. are there or have there been any recent 'landscaping' type programmes on tv recently?
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Can't think of any. But this is a bad time to start thinking of doing any serious landscaping.
If you're at square one it will be a few weeks before you'll get the work done at which point autumn is with us and you may be looking at a muddy misery until spring.
I would take my time to get it right in my head and on paper and then take your time fiding a good contractor at a good price and start the work in March.
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Gardener's World has just completed landscaping a garden (no good to you as iplayer only plays back for a week) but their website has lots of information on various projects in the garden: www.gardenersworld.com
There are several landscaping computer programmes available - the one I have seen on a friends computer was by Geoff Hamilton. I have a small collection of books with garden plans which have come from charity shops, good for a starting point and to show you how to plan a garden on paper. It is a good idea to chart out the garden on graph paper before you start - ours looked rectangular until measured up and later seen on google earth!
Nsar's idea of a contractor is likely to be at a good price as they are finding life hard at the moment - the chap our son was working for has no work lined up for the first time in twenty years.
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thanks to you both. I have downloaded SmartDraw, a landscaping program. We only got the keys to the house last week and the place needs gutting. The garden needs cutting back but I guess the landscaping part wont happen until next year.
I will have a look on gardeners world now.
Thanks again
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i have an indian made enfield , much of the engine casting is rough alloy , far to much to polish , what is the best/cheapest , possably houshold cleaner to remove the darkness/burnt in oil? aplied by hand/brush , with facility to power wash off.
i know it will restane , tried engine cleaner , it was effective , but not good enough
thank you
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Gunk, or Jizer (if this stuff is still available)? Oven cleaner (check suitability for alloy, thought!). A nice big tin of Brasso for what you do polish, I use this on my old stuff's alloy.
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Apart from the colour, what's the difference between grey and white (approx 35 mm outside diameter) waste pipe?
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A quick look at www.diy.com does not specify a difference.
I'd say it's cosmetic... and 97p difference per 'Waste Pipe 40mm Pack of 10'
B 'n Q (Other brands are available) have black & white, no gray shown.
John R
Edited by John R @ home {P} on 03/08/2009 at 08:43
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I know there are different types of white waste pipe, ABS, which can be weld jointed, and poly-something which cant. The solvent welded joints are much neater. I assume this applies to other colours.
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Solvent weld jointing is a doddle. Beware, solvent-weld pipe from different manufacturers is NOT interchangeable. I always buy mine from Plumbcenter, B&Q's version being somewhat inadequate looking.
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I have a Nokia 6301 on the orange network. My sim is on O2. Who would I need to call to get it unlocked O2 or Orange? Failing that can anyone suggest a place on the internet i can get an unlock code from thats reliable. I brought one off the net sometime ago and never heard anything.
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In Bracknell, which I visit, there is a general market which has a stall which advertises all mobile services including unlocking and there is another one within a major shopping centre there too. They'll do it on the spot for about £5 and this might be a better bet than the internet roguery, as you have discovered. Any big shopping centre near you will probably have a stall, like the above.
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If this an out of contract pay monthly phone from Orange, you should be able to get the unlock code from Orange. If it's not out of contract then they won't help. Nothing to do with O2.
Could do as AS suggests. But if out of contract you are allowed the unlock code for free - assuming the Orange phone was in your name. Otherwise get the person to call that used to own it.
Edited by rtj70 on 03/08/2009 at 14:52
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moneysavingexpert. (Martin Lewis) tell you about sites with unlocking codes.
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For some 12 years I have had a black and decker 33cm electric rotary mower. Its been the paragon of reliability, useability and serviceability. The blade has been taken off, reshaped by hand (with a paving slab and a ball pein hammer) and sharpened (with a file) every year.
The lever on the safety switch broke about 5 years ago, so the swtich was taped "on" and turned on and off at the plug. This year I bought a new blade (old one had a chunk out of it) and yesterday I found a safety switch on another type of mower in a skip. It was the work of moments before the complete handle was in the boot of my car.
So I spent a couple of hours cleaning and servicing the old mower, replacing the blade, and by drillling some new mounting holes in the tubular handle, fitting the newly liberated safety switch.
It was the work of genius, and a very neat and well done job.
Look at this dear I said, good as new. On/off On/off On/off. Good solid whirring noises of deadly metal blade munching up grass. Was i proud? yes i was.
THEN
On - nothing but a clunk, then smell then smoke. The repeated on/off's demonstrating my prowess had broken the blade brake, and I cooked the motor diagnosing it. The old mower is dead and has been buried.
To cut a long story short, I have bought a 34cm rotary mower, a bosch Rotak34, and what a fine peice of kit it is. Light, powerfull (1400 watt motor) but with a ludicrously short mains lead. Its a bargain 97 pounds in argos. Homebase want 120 odd pounds for it.
There a product recomendation.
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Just don't go showing it off to anyone.
Standard lesson from the IT world, nothing is guaranteed to break something more effectively than trying to demonstrate it.
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Blade brake?
It sounds more modern than mine!
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Just don't go showing it off to anyone. Standard lesson from the IT world nothing is guaranteed to break something more effectively than trying to demonstrate it.
I was merely trying to produce proper product lifecycle by including UAT, as per ITI-lawnmowers
Edited by Altea Ego on 03/08/2009 at 18:17
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It was the work of moments before the complete handle was in the boot of my car.
I believe technically that is theft. Even if it was being thrown away. I bet you now wish you hadn't bothered ;-)
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>> It was the work of moments before the complete handle was in the boot of my car. I believe technically that is theft. Even if it was being thrown away.
Nope, I have added my mower to the skip where i liberated the orginal handle. It was merely a loan and has been repaid with interest ;)
I bet you now wish you hadn't bothered ;-)
Sort of, but the old one would have soldiered on, and i wouldnt have a new lawn mower, At
least I made an effort to refurb the old one.
Edited by Altea Ego on 03/08/2009 at 18:18
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OTOH I am looking for an electric cylinder mower, being fed up with my rotary one.
Any good 'uns out there, preferably available second-hand?
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Plenty of Ebay.
What size are you looking for ?
A quality up market cylinder mower is OK if you keep the grass short or else use " front, side wheels" so the grass is not flattened before the cylinder gets there.
Some cheaper mowers only have side wheels.
I have just bought from an online advert a S/H , latest model Qualcast petrol mower with a "scarifier cartridge" but I have also been studying what else is around.
Re electric mowers, Atco is the most expensive and Qualcast is next ( now very similar mowers and both now owned /made by Bosch )
A relative recently bought a Bosch battery powered mower but it has now gone up in smoke. (I suspect user problems trying to mow a field :-(( .)
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a bosch Rotak34, >>
I bought it's alter-ego www.qualcast.co.uk/rotary/powertrak400.html two years ago for £70 when on offer at Homebase. It is identical to Rotak 34 except for the "edge trimming" Mclaren/Ferrari F1 aero fins. the The motor burnt out in 2 months on its 6th outing in Spring 2007. Rang their service centre [Bosch in Uxbridge], and said I did not have time to take it back to Homebase or to deliver it to a Bosch/qualcast repair centre. They [Bosch]collected it next day, and returned it two days later with a new motor and other new bits. It has been fine since then.
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...but with a ludicrously short mains lead...
My brother has the rechargeable version, which he tells me does the job.
Not cheap, though, about £225.
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Can you be a 'Director' of a sole trader? I am writing some webtsite material for my business, which is run as a sole trader. I want to write about myself and the business etc but what would you call yourself? Can you be a 'Director' of a sole trader? Obviously you can for a ltd company.
Sorry if this is long winded. Im not trying to make the business sound bigger than it is, just trying to make it look correct when writing about it/me.
Thanks
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You can call yourself what you like, but the correct term would be 'Proprietor'.
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I wouldn't use Director, people will assume you are a Company. The most correct term for a sole trader would be 'Proprietor', but I've known people use 'owner' and 'our founder' too.
Good luck!
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I wouldn't use Director people will assume you are a Company. The most correct term for a sole trader would be 'Proprietor' but I've known people use 'owner' and 'our founder' too.
And "our inspiration" or "our guidance"
But "founder and proprietor" is what i would use
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But "founder and proprietor" is what i would use
Founder sounds better.
thanks
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The other thing you are is the owner and manager, which would lead to the phrase:
"Blogs Services is owned and managed by audiA6tdi," or "Blogs Services is owned and managed by its founder, audiA6tdi."
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Founder sounds better. thanks
Founder....sounds American.
MD
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I am simply Proprietor: My name BSc (Hons) DipSwearword, ETC. After 3.5 years still not found any point on being limited. I came very close to it but the extra paper work involved just made it seem silly.
I think by law you have to use your own name on letter heads etc if you're a sole trader.
E.g Your Name trading as Cowboy Builders and Co.
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To me - Founder sounds as though you may be foundering......
To my mind there is no point in trying to disguise the fact that you are a sole trader. I would agree with others on here that Proprietor is the correct term .
Definitions:-
1. One who has legal title to something; an owner.
2. One who owns or owns and manages a business or other such establishment
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11 year old son plays for a football team (pro-youth).
His coach and sports science advisor have told the boys they should have at least 2 bottles of Energy drinks per session. He trains 4 nights a week and plays a game at weekend.
So thats 10 x 500ml bottles of one of these Energy / Isotonic type drinks.
Is this really advisable for an 11 year old? Looking at the bottle it has 140 calories per bottle, 32g carbohydrate of which sugars are 17.5g.
Anyone like to comment re the appropriateness?
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IMHO assuming the session is reasonably strenuous, I wouldn't worry too much about 280 calories (which is about a Mars bar's worth). Obviously make sure he brushes his teeth properly.
Some people might worry about the additives, but unless you spot any adverse reactions I wouldn't worry about that either. If your son is doing that much exercise he should be lucky enough to get away with eating all sorts of 'unhealthy' things.
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Sounds like a fad to me.
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Sounds like a fad to me.
I would also doubt that they are significantly better than a bottle of water (assuming he's getting the calories elsewhere). But if you want to keep in the advisor's good books and save some money, try supermarket own brand versions - I know the Asda ones are cheap,
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Is this "advisor" or his mate selling the drinks?
Edited by Old Navy on 03/08/2009 at 23:29
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Its the Sports Science advisor, who, believe it or not, also happens to be a dentist!!
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We normally stock up with them when they are on a BOGOF or half price deal!
Just seems a helluva lot of sugar to be taking, yes he is burning lots of energy but we try to eat healthily so would have thought he would get enough energy from his pastas, meat and veg etc?
But try telling that to an 11 year old who has been told that he should be drinking the Lucozade!
Personally speaking I can't stand the taste of it - almost granular / very gritty!
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Energy / Isotonic type drinks. Is this really advisable for an 11 year old? >>
Plenty of authoritative information on the web, eg.:
www.mary-anns.com/sports_drinks.html
www.womenfitness.net/sportsdrink.htm
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Those seem to coincide with my views, although the first seems rather "alternative" - with an axe to grind. I don't think these drinks are at all necessary. Harmful? Hard to say.
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although the first seems rather "alternative" - with an axe to grind >>
Agreed. The reason I left it in was that it refers to "The American College of Sports Medicine recently condemned these drinks and was dismissive of the idea that they are superior to water " which should give BobbyG a pointer where to research science based opinions on this issue.
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Bobby, the nutritionist who came to talk to us when my son was racing dinghies suggested that they take a minimum of a litre of drink with them - cannot find the recipe but it was original (not chemical stuffed 'sugar free') squash with the addition of a pinch of salt and spoonfuls of glucose/sugar.
She also gave a recipe for high energy muffins made with bananas and chocolate.
The kids raced out all day, taking a packed lunch, so needed lots of replacement fluids + energy (don't ask what they were doing between races when they jumped in the sea).
Have now turned the house upside down and cannot find the info sheet ... the search continues! Must have worked though, as one of the squad won a Gold last summer ;-)
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Deepwith, I think that formula is roughly what is suggested in the links ie. concentrated juice, water and salt.
Of course there is also peer pressure nowadays to turn up with the latest boots, the latest "skins" and the isotonic drink - but hey, I can make the drink up and pour it into the Lucozade bottle!!
Thanks for all the comments, it would appear that although the stuff is maybe not required, or necessarily the best alternative, then while he is doing this level of exercise (4x2 hour hard training sessions and 1xgame per week) then it shouldn't be a problem health wise.
Just better reinforce the brushing the teeth bit though.....
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How long has it been the custom to use flexible hoses to connect domestic water taps and toilet cisterns, instead of soldered copper pipe? It just seems to me to be like a way of allowing plumbers to require lower skills. Doesn't it tend to result in unsupported pipes and more water hammer problems?
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be like a way of allowing plumbers to require lower skills. Doesn't it tend to result in unsupported pipes and more water hammer problems?
Isnt everything becoming de-skilled? It helps DIYers though. I havent had water hammer problems with these, but I know that they can burst, usually when you are away for two weeks!
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........... I know that they can burst ...........
I'd rather you hadn't told me that, being as that's what the plumber has used!
Edited by L'escargot on 04/08/2009 at 10:06
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I havent had water hammer problems with these
>>
I am tempted to try plastic as I am fighting to sort out water hammer that has appeared apparently since I changed a very old diaphram in a Torbeck.
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>>.... but I know that they can burst, usually when you are away for two weeks!
Especially if a mouse chews through the rising main it the loft while you are away as happened to someone I know.
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SQ
Especially if a mouse chews through the rising main it the loft while you are away as happened to someone I know.
Insurance is for that. Cheap Copper pipe can split.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 05/08/2009 at 11:15
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Insurance is for that.
Insurance doesn't help when prized personal posessions are spoilt.
Cheap Copper pipe can split.
Grasping at straws here. The chance of this happening is remote in the extreme compared with faulty fitting or damage to placstic pipework.
The only argument is in terms of price, really - leaving out skill, a factor in avoiding bodge jobs.
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Not all plumbers use these things. I don't (although I'm not a plumber). Their main advantage is that they're easier to use than copper, and make £.
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I always turn off the water if the house is going to be unoccupied for more than a couple of days. A friend returned from holiday to destroyed belongings and a badly damaged house after a joint failed in his loft and brought down every ceiling in the house. There had been an open mains pressure pipe flowing for days, (weeks?). Ok he was insured but is it worth the hassle? EDIT - It keeps the stopcock free and easy to use too!
Edited by Old Navy on 04/08/2009 at 11:34
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I use them, its saves me time and never had a problem with them.
The plumber uses them becuase it saves him time, which should mean a reduction in bills as time is money.
Why the adversity to making things easier?
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'Cos if you use solid pipes, you don't need to screw the basin to the wall. ;>)
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Why the adversity to making things easier?
I agree, I used flexibles when replacing kitchen and utility sinks, and refitting my bathroom without any problems. I also fitted service valves at the same time so that any fitting can be isolated for replacement or repair without shutting off the whole house.
Edited by Old Navy on 04/08/2009 at 12:18
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I did use compression fittings throughout, not sure about plastic or push fit, any opinions?
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I did use compression fittings throughout not sure about plastic or push fit any opinions?
Push fit has never let us down. Just make sure that the pipe is cut cleanly and that the pipe inserts are used despite what some folk may say. CONCENTRATE when you use a fitting and either mark the pipe with a pencil so that you know it has been inserted correctly or listen/feel that slight 'thud' when it is pushed home.
We use John Guest products. We recently used a product called Hep20 and were less than satisfied with it.
We always use Copper tails to radiators or anywhere where the pipes will be visible. Copper fits into JG fittings just fine. Once again use the correct insert.
Best regards..........MD
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We use John Guest products.
JG had various racing interests connected to the name "Speedfit"; maybe still has.
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A central heating engineer told me plastic pipes for radiators are easier to route and silent - better all round.
Plastic is routinely used to replace gas mains under the street.
A man doing the job told me they flex a little and are less likely to crack.
Supposed to last a hundred years, too, although only the passing of a hundred years will truly tell us that.
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Plastic is routinely used to replace gas mains under the street.
The gas and water supply pipes into my house are plastic, (and the power cable is in a plastic pipe). All the pipes my side of the stopcocks are copper, Apart from the flexibles to the fittings I have installed. Some houses near me have plastic heating pipes and have had problems getting service contracts.
Edited by Old Navy on 04/08/2009 at 12:45
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I use them, its saves me time and never had a problem with them. ... Why the adversity to making things easier? >>
;-) Hold on Altea, it would help if you told us you had changed your mind [and more importantly, why have you changed your mind?]!
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=66...2
Thu 28 Aug 08 09:22
Plastic water pipes. An unhappy tale. - Altea Ego
Wont have it in the house under any circumstances. Only for waste pipes. Fo rthe rest - copper or nothing
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=66397&...e
Thu 28 Aug 08 11:36
nothing means exactly that - no water pipe and no water unless its copper
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Blimey! I never knew we'd started using flexibles in this country ... the first I came across them was when I lived in Tenerife and got offered a job as a handyman, I'd never touched plumbing? before but replacing flexibles was childs play (even I could do it)
I'd never fit em in my 1930's house though.
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>Hold on Altea, it would help if you told us you had changed your mind [and more >importantly, why have you changed your mind?]!
I use flexible tap connectors for connecting to taps, or cisterns. - the ones with an service isolating valve in. The rest of the piping is copper.
So its only the tap connectors that are not copper. (ok the tap connectors are a little long but hey) The "Piping" is copper :P
pfftttt
Opps sorry, the push fit connectors to the shower pump I fitted are not copper either.
There happy now?
Opps
nor is the shower head flexible pipe.
Oh
and the garden hose, does that count?
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Why the adversity to making things easier?
Eh? No such thing. It's the lower skill needed[1], that cost savings aren't passed on, and there's more scope for disaster. I do not believe that "flexible is better" - sure, it *may* be easier.
[1] The plumber's sole proficiency is *not* simply running pipework from A to B.
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I've recently fitted a kitchen for SWMBO. It included a sink, radiator and a combi boiler in a different place. Have used plastic for the sink and rad. Absolute doddle.
Most leaks happen when fitters forget the inserts at the ends. Usually start to leak when you're away. Have had experience of a copper pipe corroding and leaking where it was resting on a pine board....apparently copper and pine don't like each other....plastic won't do that.
Ted
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I've used plenty of these over the years and not had a problem yet. Quick, easy and diy. What's not to like?
Edited by nick on 04/08/2009 at 14:03
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Copper doesn't like floor screed or concrete either.
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Why the adversity to making things easier?
What the plumber has left our new washbasin with is two 600 mm long pipes coming out of the floor, 15 mm clear of the wall, with no support at the top other than the flexible hoses between the copper pipes and the taps ~ a recipe for water hammer and leaks at underfloor soldered joints upstream. How can you fit pipe clamps in that sort of situation?
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What the plumber has left our new washbasin with is two 600 mm long pipes coming out of the floor 15 mm clear of the wall with no support at the top other than the flexible hoses between the copper pipes and the taps ~ a recipe for water hammer
Wont cause water hammer or leaks upstream.
What it is however is unsupported pipes that can be accidently bent or fractured. Are they hidden behind the pedestal?
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Wont cause ........ leaks upstream.
Where the pipes go throgh the floor boards they turn through a right angle and I'm concerned that any movement of the vertical part of the pipe will twist the horizontal part of the pipe that's under the floor boards and damage a soldered joint. I'm going to investigate the possibility of using plastic pipe clips held onto the wall with No More Nails tape.
Are they hidden behind the pedestal?
They're behind but not hidden.
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>> Wont cause ........ leaks upstream. >>
More importantly, has the new pipework been earthed?
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I'm concerned that any movement of the vertical part of the pipe will twist the horizontal part of the pipe that's under the floor boards and damage a soldered joint.
The soldered joint is likely to be stronger than the pipe.
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How long has it been the custom to use flexible hoses to connect domestic water taps and toilet cisterns instead of soldered copper pipe?
It seems to be more and more common over the last 20 years, especially for taps. Less so for cisterns as they are more visible. I'm happy with taps but seeing them on cisterns makes me think of badly installed foreign plumbing.
>>It just seems to me to be like a way of allowing plumbers to require lower skills.
It is often much quicker and therefore cheaper but the plumber must still have the skills for other parts of the pipe run. For diy certainly less skilled.
>>Doesn't it tend to result in unsupported pipes and more water hammer problems?
The pipes just need to be supported elsewhere. And I imagine a section of flexible pipe would reduce the likelihood of water hammer.
One place where flexis can be safer is in connecting to sink mixer taps. If the sink is somewhat flexible then copper pipes will provide some rigidity to the taps. That is a good thing with 15 or 22 mm pipes but the 8 or 10 mm pipes going into mixer taps have been known to have fatigue failures where they flex at the tap/pipe joint with rather damp consequences!
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The use of flexibles with an integrated service valve I believe is inadvisable practice, probably aimed at the beginner DIY market, since the flexible is the one thing after the tap that is likely to fail. Cheaper and better to fit a 1/4 turn ball valve on the fixed pipe and then use the flexible to connect the short pipe stub to the tap. It is worth using full flow ball valves on low pressure systems to main flow rate, even if they are slightly more expensive.
I did not use to use plastic pipe, but have now converted, but still a little wary of push joints on mains pressure pipes. However I will only use Hep2O ( a premium brand), Saves a lot of time, particularly with 'difficult' runs.
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...More importantly, has the new pipework been earthed?...
Would any of the plumbers on here care to explain the earthing implications of using plastic pipe?
Might help the rest of us to understand if you first outline why copper pipes need to be earthed.
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Might help the rest of us to understand if you first outline why copper pipes need to be earthed. >>
I'm not a plumber (or an electrician) but I'll throw in my two penny worth.
Copper pipes don't need to be earthed but they're used some times for the safety earth of electrical systems.
So if you insert a length of plastic pipe in a copper pipe run that goes to earth and is being used this way, you break the circuit and so the safety feature.
I think that's the logic.
Edited by Optimist on 05/08/2009 at 10:43
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Optimist is wrong. Cooper pipes are NOT used for the safety earth of electrical systems. It is (sort of) the other way round; electrical systems are used for the safety earthing of copper pipes.
Copper pipes are earthed ("supplementary bonding") as it is possible that a fault may cause a live electric cable to touch them. If it does, then the entire pipework is live. If the pipework itself is insulated, then the fuse/RCD does not trip, and the pipes remain live. Supplementary bonding is there to make sure that the pipework does not become live as a result of a fault.
There is a very good argument that supplementary bonding makes a bathroom a less safe place. If you have hold of an earthed tap in one hand and a faulty hairdryer in the other, you have a perfect route to earth.
Discussion here on plastic pipes.
www.plasticpipesgroup.com/pdfs/earthbonding.pdf
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I appreciate that this is not a question, as such, but useful information, I hope. Mods delete edit or whatever if you don't like the content.
I had a problem along these lines which I thought I had raised here a year ago but I can't find it. My partner lost nearly £400 (paid by a VISA card) when an airline she was due to fly with went bust. She submitted a valid claim and the level of incompetence and wilful obstruction displayed by the Card Company she was claiming from was breathtaking. In the end her claim was rejected and closed. I thought she had a good case and so we filed a very easy to fill in 4 page claim form with the FS Ombudsman. Funny old thing - 6 weeks later a letter from the Card Company saying that they have found an error in the handling of her paperwork and she has a full refund in her bank.
The point of the post is really to recommend the services of the Ombudsman. The paperwork is easy, the service is totally free and from my experience above, does what it says on the tin!
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 05/08/2009 at 10:32
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At which point you should be seeking recompense from the CC company for poor handling of the case. They'll (probably) give you £50 automatically, and £100 if you're insistent. If they offer you a bunch of flowers, ask for cash instead; they only order the flowers from Interflora, so it makes no difference to them.
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In my partner's case she filed a claim in Sep 08. For admin reasons the card co split it into 2 parts. One was for £25, the costs of pre-booking her seat, and this was paid in about 8 weeks. The other was for £350 and nothing happened. She complained in March 09 about slow handling and was promised a reply in April; in April she was promised a reply in May and this was preceeded by a dismissal of her claim from the dept who were dealing with it. Ombudsman involvement did the trick.
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Well done in getting a response in a year.
A friend has just had a result after 7 painful years of dealing with the Ombudsman. He now has a claim against them for the costs he has incurred in copying information on numerous occasions due to claim officers (he's had 5 so far!) losing files.
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Sorry to read that DJP! I have only used them once and I thought 6 weeks to get a result on a 10 month duration case that had been dismissed by the card company was good. I guess your friend's complaint was way more complex than a simple CC refund.
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which I thought I had raised here a year ago but I can't find it. >>
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author: Armitage; message body: credit card £400; discussion; <1year
BINGO!
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Thanks jbif, you are a star! Sorry MODS, I am a wallybrain!
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I have had a problem with a leaking shower tray. The offending article has been removed and it has been decided that ?we? should take the opportunity to completely re-do the area, new tray, plastic micro-board walls etc. The leak wasn?t of Niagara proportions but one of the joists has been saturated over a small area. This has dried out well and will be left exposed until it is fully dry. The joists look as if they were treated (tanalised?) before installation.
The saturated joist has a short length of approximately 50mm on its top surface where it has gone ?spongy? to a depth of 2 or 3 millimetres. Should I cut out the spongy part and make good and then treat this area, and the surrounding joists with anything? The joist is the ?end? one, up against the exterior wall of the house and has no traffic over it.
As part of the refurbishment I want to bury the shower feed pipes in the wall (hot and cold, 15millimetre copper). The wall is block built and is the inner leaf of a cavity wall. Do these pipes need any sort of protective coating? I intend to fit pipe insulation to them anyway. Or, having read through L?escargot?s plumbing question, and copper?s dislike of concrete, should I use plastic pipe and protect it from abrasions?
TIA
MJM
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Unlikely that there is much need to do anything to the joist. A small amount of rot (which you should remove) will not cause to many problems.
Don't really like buring pipes in the structure of the property. The micro-cell board is sufficiently thick that you could bury the pipes in between sheets of the board and tile over (having first put in some form of conduit).
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Lifting floorboards the other day, I discovered to my surprise that the 15mm radiator tails attach to a thinner pipe. What spec would this be? (It's not that ghastly microbore, it's proper copper pipe, but it's thinner than 15mm. Haven't measure it, but I guess it's about 10-12mm; guess CH system is mid 1970s.)
Secondly, it's a CH system with a tank in the roof. I've only ever dealt with pressurised closed systems before. B&Q sell two bungs which you put in the pipes leading to the tank in the roof (supply and return(?)) which apparently allow you to remove a radiator from the system without otherwise needing to isolate it. Really?
(I have a non-working TRV, and anyway need to move the radiator.)
Edited by Mapmaker on 05/08/2009 at 12:52
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Lifting floorboards the other day I discovered to my surprise that the 15mm radiator tails attach to a thinner pipe. What spec would this be? (It's not that ghastly microbore
It sounds like that ghastly microbore!
Secondly it's a CH system with a tank in the roof. I've only ever dealt with pressurised closed systems before. B&Q sell two bungs which you put in the pipes leading to the tank in the roof (supply and return(?)) which apparently allow you to remove a radiator from the system without otherwise needing to isolate it. Really?
You should be able to find isolating valves anyway, else just drain the lot (put inhibitor in when you re-fill).
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microbore is soft, springs leaks and bent - as a result of coming off a roll. This stuff is die-straight, like proper pipe.
I'm not desperate to drain the lot as there would be a huge quantity of inhibitor required each time (there must be 30 radiators on the system), and it'll need doing 4 times, once for each floor... Freezing would be a better option. Only some of the radiators have iso valves.
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Only some of the radiators have iso valves.
I'd be quite surprised if there weren't (gate) valves in the system to isolate parts of it - I'd also be surprised were there (extra) isolating valves on individual radiators. I assume that this systems been tinkered about with!
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There will not be any gate valves in the system to isolate parts of it. There wil be one either side of the pump and thats about all.
Drain the lot down, its easy enough, just isolate the feed to the header tank in the loft (tie up the ball valve if required)
Al of the radiators should have isolating valves. If they dont fit them while its empty.
use new inhibitor oin the header tank.
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Al of the radiators should have isolating valves. If they dont fit them while its empty.
If you're talking about "lockshield valves" then yes, of course - if a service valve, then the question arises "*Why?*".
It's quite possible that there are other valves.
Don't just dump inhibitor in the tank, unless you put it in before filling the system.
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>>Don't just dump inhibitor in the tank
As in... don't just leave the inhibitor sitting in the tank? LOL, thanks for that one!
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B&Q sell two bungs which you put in the pipesleading to the tank in the roof (supply and return(?)) which apparently allow you to remove a radiator from the system without otherwise needing to isolate it. Really? (I have a non-working TRV and anyway need to move the radiator.)
Yes, it does work, is the simple answer.
Plumber friend of mine has actually demonstrated it to me while he was changing some pipework and heated towel rail for me; he did the lot without draining down the system at all. He uses a couple of old wine corks but principal is the same, one goes in the overflow vent pipe over the header tank the second in the pipe supplying water to the system from the header tank. This works on the same principal of the old trick of putting a straw into a glass of water, putting your finger over the end and pulling the straw out holding the water in the straw, same as lab scientists use a pipette. The copper pipe is the straw and the cork is your finger, relies on the fact that nature abhors a vacuum and will even defy the laws of gravity in an attempt to fill it. You will lose a small amount of water initially, about a half pint, ISTR, until the vacuum kicks in sufficiently to hold the head of water.
He reckons he can change a radiator valve in about 20 minutes using this system, whereas some other plumbers may charge you several hours for a drain down and refill.......
WARNING: this will only work if you have a plug in both flow ans return and you only have ONE open end on each of the flow and return pipes.
Make a second cut or opening and you will release the water back to the nearest cut point to the plug and WILL get wet!!!
Edited by cockle {P} on 05/08/2009 at 16:56
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