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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/04/2009 at 14:55
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Doh....
Came back from the US after a business trip, which I got some good advice BTW on here, and realised that I had not handed in my green slip for the visa waiver. I'm going back to the US in about 4 weeks and I cannot be the first person ever to do this.
Does anybody know of the right way to get this back? (I could give it to a colleague but that might not be such a good idea in these troubled times). I've had a trawl through google but most people seem to think that it does not matter - given the new IT system installed at Homeland Security I'm not sure that i want to leave it to chance....
It may be that I don't go back for the 90 days for the first waiver but I really don't want to be refused entry.
Any thoughts?
BTW - United Airlines £60 upgrade for premium economy leg room - great for sleeping on the way back to the UK.
Cheers
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Just show them the first page of your passport.
"Her Britannic Majesty's
Secretary of State
Requests and requires in the
Name of Her Majesty
all those whom it may concern to allow
the bearer to pass freely without let or hindrance,
and to afford the bearer such assistance
and protection as may be necessary."
Sorted !
I tried that in Brazil some years ago when having a bit of local difficulty.
Didn't work, but then they weren't an ex British colony.......
;-)
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As the green forms are now in the past I'd just fill in the new online form and have done with it. ( see link on this page):-
travel.state.gov/visa/temp/without/without_1990.ht...l
Guess who's going to San Diego and back this week on UA cattle class? Maybe I'll splash out the 60 quid.
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I did all the online stuff prior to recent trip to Florida (ESTA etc...?) but on check in at Gatwick I was told to do the old paper stuff, as the online stuff "isn't working properly yet". So my passport still has something green stapled in it.
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Thanks for the advice so far
According to many colleagues the system is not up and running thus the reason wht you still do your two part green form. Usually the airlines take it back on check in, but because I was on a tight timescale I checked in on line so did not show my passport at the desk to recieve my boarding card, and previously the airline has always collected this. I wonder if you can send directly to the Embassy?
regards
Paul
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I'd try to do something if it were me. Maybe you should try to find contact details for Homeland Security in the city where you left the US and see what they say. In my experience US Immigration were very capable of taking a harsh view even before 9/11.
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I would strongly advise you look at this
www.usembassy.org.uk/dhs/cbp/i94.html
and follow the procedures, I advise on US tax and immigration and the likelyhood that you will get stopped is low....their procedures are lax.....
However you should have the evidence that you actually left (as detailed in the above link) in case you get pulled to 'secondary' and then your life will become hell!
E-mail me off line if you need any more help!
Cheers
Benjurs
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If you've got a newish passport (that has a microchip in it,you should have no problems)
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True you should have no problems in most of the ports, but believe me you don't want to get sent to 'Secondary' without adequate proof of leaving the country.
Take a sear, Sir......and put on the next flight home (hopefully the same day. if not a night in the slammer with the other deportees) with Denied Entry to the US in your passport and record.....now that's very hard to remove and also very expensive (but profitable in my business :-)!!!
Take Care
Benjurs
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Just an update, having been to San Diego and back this week,although UA check in at Terminal 1 said I didn't need to fill in a good old green form I did have to on the 'plane anyway.
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To be specific, green tea. I have rather taken to green tea with a slice of lemon, but I am also trying to cut back the amount of caffeine in my diet. As there is no info on the box, can anyone here advise how much caffeine, if any, there is in a mug of green tea compared to say the average mug of coffee?
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No caffeine in tea at all. Same drug but when in tea called teeine - or however you spell it!
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No caffeine in tea at all. Same drug but when in tea called teeine or however you spell it!>>
Oh really.
www.bbc.co.uk/health/healthy_living/nutrition/heal...l
coffeetea.about.com/library/blcaffeine.htm
www.stashtea.com/caffeine.htm
That's without really trying.
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how much caffeine, if any, there is in a mug of green tea compared to say the average mug of coffee? >>
Table here coffeetea.about.com/library/blcaffeine.htm suggests about 20% to 25%.
Suggestions here on how to reduce the caffeine in green tea:
www.amazing-green-tea.com/green-tea-caffeine.html
As to how credible the sources above are is a matter for you dig deeper in to!
Edited by jbif on 07/04/2009 at 01:04
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>>As to how credible the sources above are is a matter for you dig deeper in to!>>
Is madux one of these sources?
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Oi! Stop picking on me!
What I said was true a few years ago. Maybe they have updated it, in the same way they have updated 'Obese' to mean anyone slightly overweight, or that it is now safe to eat more than 2 eggs a week.........
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>>What I said was true a few years ago.>>
What was said a few years ago doesn't necessarily apply today...:-)
Remember that Gordon Brown said "a few years ago" that boom and bust was over....:-))
I've always understood that caffeine was present in tea, but at lower levels than drinks such as coffee.
I've got a friend who told a great joke the other night. He said he visited the doctor, who pointed out that he'd "put on a bit of weight" since last being at the surgery.
My friend responded that was true and that it was due to the fact that "he'd had a lot on his plate lately."...:-)
Edited by Stuartli on 07/04/2009 at 01:24
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Try Rooibos tea - once you get past the initial antiseptic whiff it's quite pleasant and also caffeine-free.
Also said to be bung full of antioxidants so you won't go rusty.
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Thanks all. I do like the Redbush tea too, but it doesnt work as well with lemon, IMO.
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SFAIK there is more caffeine in tea but less of it appears in the drink due to the way it is prepared. Percolator tea would have loads of caffeine in it but wouldn't be very nice to drink!
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I have been preparing a base for a shed and shall be concreting it. Now its all preped up with shuttering and compacted hardcore (the broken brick variety!) I have measured up and will need just under a cubic metre of concrete.
Two options, of which I favour the one with the least wheel barrowing, are either readymix or mix my own - I do have a mixer.
Does anyone know:
1. The approximate price for a cubic metre of readymix?
2. How many of those 1 tonne bags of sand and gravel make up a cubic metre? I'm guessing at 2.
I don't want to end up with a 1 tonne bag bag of sand and gravel laid about with just a couple of shovel fulls taken out. That's if I take that option.
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Don't know if they're available everywhere, but I was mightily impressed by a 'readymix' truck that turned up at a neighbours.
They weren't able to get to the point where pour was required, so this truck had all the ingredients in seperate hoppers and the mix was produced in small quantities on demand.
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The minimix or mix on site guys are quite expensive per m3, but you get a good, fast service. You'll need about 1800kg of ballast etc. to make 1 m3 of concrete.
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Thanks. So I was about on the money with 2 X 1 Tonne bags providing the bags are up to weight. I have had one of those on site mixers once before and mixed as much as I needed. Trouble was I was working on my own doing three different areas and I was knackered. AND it was the year of the drought when it was the only day it rained.
Will have to tap up some additional labour!
Edited by Fullchat on 08/04/2009 at 01:02
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According to 2009 building costs book concrete is about £70-100 per cu m., depending on mix requried - most 'standard' mixes are around the £70-80 per cu m.
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Um. Too late now, but IMO piers or dwarf walls in conjunction with timber bearers are by far the best for shed support (unless you've got a "cheap" shed).
Edited by FotheringtonThomas on 08/04/2009 at 13:55
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Evening all,
not really a question but just a quick line to let you know I read all of your comments and your help is greatly appreciated. I've had many emails off people who I've never even spoken to before offering advice and support which has meant a lot.
I hope to post in here again soon letting you all know of some good news!
Thanks again - your help means a lot!
Adam
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Good Luck Adam. I am sure we are all glad to help and hope to hear positive news from you very soon. Please e mail me directly if there is anything I can do. I write quite a mean CV! I have had 7 days out of work since 1958 - lucky me!
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Adam -just came across this on Martyn Lewis' Money Saving expert site.
Looking for work? Grants of up to £300 now available to help. Updated Guide
Each Job Centre Plus has a Advisor Discretion Fund, which can provide jobseekers with a grant of up to £300 to cover the cost of transport, childcare, work clothes and more, if the advisor thinks it'll help you get back to work. Previously, the money was only for people unemployed for six months or more. Now anyone claiming jobseeker's allowance is eligible. Full details in the Updated Guide: Grant Grabbing Related Guide: Five-Mins Benefits Check-Up
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 08/04/2009 at 10:36
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Adam, you truly are the Peter Pan of the Backroom ~ after all these (nearly 6) years you're still only 20, still at University, and still driving a Focus saloon!
;-)
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...Peter Pan of the backroom...
Given his age, shouldn't that be Dorian Gray?
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Adam sorry to llearn of your predicament . Like others on the forum it happened to me too, but now some 30 years later I look back and think the experience did me a power of good. Try and keep focused , don't give up and ...........sign on for that job seekers allowance!
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Does this happen like on the old CRT screens?
I've recently started listening to digital radio stations via my TV, most of them have a static information page, if I have the TV on for several hours am I in danger of damaging my TV's screen?
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According to a google search, yes.
lmgtfy.com/?q=%22screen+burn%22+lcd
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The BBC run the test card on HD channel when it's not transmitting. It's on once every hour for a few minutes.
I read the advice on there about balancing the picture my LCD TV.
It advised to record the test card and pause it while you corrected the picture, but not to pause for too long as screen burn could occur.
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It happens - I have seen the result.
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Rudedog, If your digital TV receiver is anywhere near your hi-fi, plug it in to the hi-fi amp with an audio cable. The sound of your radio stations will be far better, and you can switch the TV itself off whilst listening to the radio station, solving the problem of potential "screen burn".
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EDIT sorry daft reply
Edited by Focus {P} on 08/04/2009 at 14:11
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Unfortunately I'm receiving the digital signal through the TV's built in receiver so I don't think I could turn off the TV.
Maybe I could turn down the screen brightness to a very low level.
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I have a 26in LCD TV on which I listen to the radio (mostly R5L) regularly - there is no evidence of screen burn (the display's contents are changed/updated every minute or so).
Modern TVs have technical wizardry in the display circuits to prevent possible screen burn but, if you are worried about the logos such as BBCi causing such burns, you will find that if you press the green button on your remote such logos will disappear.
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After stating previously that TV picture quality isn't that important, our new 19" LCD kitchen TV arrived yesterday (the old one was broken, honest!). It's one of the cheaper ones, but the picture looks pretty good and the menus are quite snazzy - sound is a bit pants though.
However, what seems odd to me is that it has what appears to be the standard resolution for 19"-ers of 1440x900, which works out as equivalent to an aspect ratio of 16:10. So you would expect it to show 16:9 broadcasts with either
1. thin borders top and bottom, or
2. a slight loss of picture at the left/right edges
so that the pictures aren't distorted ie. squares are square. But on the picture settings of '16:9' and 'auto', it doesn't, ie. squares are rectangles and people are 'thin'.
There is a picture setting 'zoom2' which corresponds to 2 above, but there doesn't appear to be any setting that allows you to see the whole of the 16:9 broadcast picture in the correct aspect ratio. Also in non-'auto' settings you have to manually change to the 4:3 setting for 4:3 broadcasts if you want a non-distorted picture.
Anyone else with a 1440x900 TV with the same problem, or is it just mine? It's this one:
www.ebuyer.com/product/154969
Cheers
F
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16x10 screens are more common than you might expect - even some professional broadcast kit suffers.
The origins of that resolution are down to PC graphic standards - rather than built for television - it is WUXGA, which is the widescreen version of UXGA, and was (probably) chosen to display two pages of text side by side..
The business of aspect ratio switching is too big a subject for me to be drawn into.
It is a bag of spanners
Edited by Another John H on 08/04/2009 at 14:59
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You may also find in use that a cheap TV loses 'lip synch' at regular intervals. Our bedroom TV does it so much I use analogue most of the time.
It is a TV issue too as the Sony in the lounge, which uses the same aerial, doesn't suffer lip synch problems at all.
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You may also find in use that a cheap TV loses 'lip synch' at regular intervals. Our bedroom TV does it so much I use analogue most of the time. It is a TV issue too as the Sony in the lounge which uses the same aerial doesn't suffer lip synch problems at all.
To be precise - its a digital freeview tuner issue. Its also seen in Freeview STB's The tevion STB from Aldi was a shocker for this. My Humax PVR never suffers from this. Its all down to digital / analogue conversion. (the DAC)
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Focus,
the situation on aspect ratios seems to be getting worse, not better. Another case of "aren't standards good, let's have some more". With televisions moving from 4:3 to 16:9 some genius decided that computer monitors would use 16:10. Why? At least that idea does seem to be falling by the wayside and 16:9 seems to be taking over on monitors. Meanwhile, over on cameras, 35mm was 3:2, full and half frame DSLRs have maintained that but Olympus use 4:3 and compacts are 4:3 or, well, pick any two numbers. And your local photo print shop offer 6*4 or 7*5 prints so your photos get cropped whether you print them or view them on a monitor or tv! Crazy.
JH
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Hi looking for help, every search I do on Google just returns companies doing this rather than help with the actual problem!
Anyway, as part of our H&S review for our charity shops, we have been told that each shop should have a valid certificate of electrical installation. None of our shops do, and have never had! I am being quoted a rough figure of £500 per shop to get this done and this does not include any resultant work.
What exactly are the regulations? Who checks this (other than H&S) - is it an insurance requirement?
Many of our shops are rented on a full R&I lease - is it our reponsibility or landlords to do this?
Any thoughts, help would be appreciated!
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I would have thought that it was the landlords responsibility. Perhaps your local fire brigade could advise?
Regards, cc
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The only way you will know who is responsible is by looking at the lease.
I very much doubt the landlord would take responsibility - if I were a landlord I wouldn't.
Once the lease is signed it's generally up to the tenant to ensure the property is kept in good condition and under H&S you should have certificates for risk assessment and fire risk assessment files.
At the very least all portable items should be PAT tested every 12 months.
www.pat-testing.info/hse.htm
Your insurances may have requirements to undertake testing etc.
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PAT testing is the responsibility of the landlord renting out a private dwelling. I would have thought an EIC would be also?
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PAT testing is the responsibility of the landlord renting out a private dwelling.
Only if he provided the portable appliance as part of the lease. A portable appliance is that which has a plug, not hard wired.
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Captain - housing and business tenancies are completely different beasts. You can't have knowledge of one and apply it to the other.
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The Landlord is responsible for having this in place at the time the lease starts.
If there are any alterations to the electrical services during your tenancy a new certificate should be provided by the installer. I would assume your lease states such alterations need the approval of, or carried out by the landlord (or his appointed subcontractor)
PAT testing of all your equipment is your responsibility.
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The Landlord is responsible for having it in place at the start, but in most leases the landlord will accept responsibility only to the distribution board immediately after the meter.
Any electrical installation, epsecially in industrial and often retail units, is the responsiblity of the tenant.
Tenants of industrial and retail units often have specific requriements for power so rather than second guess what is required the landlord will provide very little. Should the tenant vacate they are quite often required to rip out the electrical installation, or have it fully tested.
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Thanks for the quick answers - we already get all the PAT testing done annually so that is not an issue.
So if my reading of this is correct, when we take over a new lease we should ask for a certificate before we take entry. If one is provided, then any alterations we do should be certified. Assuming no alterations have taken place, when would we need to get another test done - is there a certain frequency, every 5 years or something?
I have came across a Periodic Inspection Report for one of my shops, although there is a load of points listed, and many of these are along the lines of "can't gain accesss to circuit", "could not disconnect individual neutrals due to time factor - shop trading", it still had a certificate issued! Makes me wonder if they are worth the paper they are written on as it seems to say "what we have tested works, but not sure about the items we haven't tested"
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>>"what we have tested works, but not sure about the items we haven't tested"
Just like an MOT!
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Could somebody suggest a good product to renovate some very tired looking decking, i treated it with some clear oil last year but that didn't improve its looks at all, so i presume i need something with a stain in it ?
Thanks
Edited by rtj70 on 08/04/2009 at 20:49
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Just bought some electrical equipment from a German supplier, and unsurprisingly it's got a 2 pin plug. It fits into a (UK) shaver adaptor - is it ok to use one of these for this purpose? (The equipment is low power.)
F
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Focus
well it says here tinyurl.com/5by7s9 that you should be ok.
Astonishingly it also says;
"60 Hz (Hertz, cycles per second) was the best frequency for alternating current (AC) power generating"
"When the German company AEG built the first European generating facility, its engineers decided to fix the frequency at 50 Hz, because the number 60 didn't fit the metric standard unit sequence "
"Not only is 50 Hz 20% less effective in generation, it is 10-15% less efficient in transmission, it requires up to 30% larger windings and magnetic core materials in transformer construction. "
So we've just identified a way of putting a massive dent in global warming :-) Of course all of those old clocks will run a bit fast!
JH
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Focus well it says here tinyurl.com/5by7s9 that you should be ok.
Thanks JH.
Actually the kit is a pair of Devolo Homeplug adaptor thingies, which I bought on Amazon UK for a cheap £34 (free postage). I've just looked at another of their adverts and there's no mention of non-UK plugs. Are they allowed to do that?
EDIT sold on Amazon UK by a German company
Edited by Focus {P} on 08/04/2009 at 20:33
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See:
Thanks Stuartli - I've already got a pair of Devolos installed (with UK plugs) and they work very well.
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>>..and they work very well.>>
The Devolos probably derive as a result of the experimental work done by my then electricity supplier, Manweb, many years ago of carrying/transmitting the Internet over mains cables, especially pertinent in a household environment.
The experiments were regularly featured on North West local TV news programmes at the time.
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fascinating read on there JH thanks
i would still rather have a truly british (made in hong kong) 3 pin plug on my gizmo though
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i would still rather have a truly british (made in hong kong) 3 pin plug on my gizmo though
Me too!
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5 minutes work. I did 3 the other day. First time I've put a plug on for years I must admit. You probably need a certificate to do it these days :-(
JH
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5 minutes work.
Unfortunately the plug is part of the box - there's no lead. Not obvious how it could be changed. (But I do have at least one shaver adaptor.)
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It should be absolutely fine. :-)
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The info is not complete re plug types
Type M (the old 15A ) is still in active use (rather than left over from pre 13A) in the UK. It is used for studio lights.
I found 13 A plugs were in use in the Gulf and Botswana.
If I thought a little longer I am sure there are others I have come acrooss.
I have a transparent 13A from Botswana, Transparent ( pin side) 15A from South Africa and click shut 15 A which I thought were rather good.
My comments about the transparent plugs allowing one to check if "less skilled" operators have done an acceptable job did not go down well with SWMBO.
Many World wide adapters sold do not include South African adapters.
The oddest plug I have is a type L (Italian) but it has a slider on it so the outer two pins move so it will fit either of the available sockets.
The site I use is
www.international-electrical-supplies.com/plug-ada...l
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The "old" UK plug/socket is still current in India and some UK defence establishments.
Try the following link as well : -
www.interpower.com/icl/guide.htm
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I emailed the supplier politely asking if they were aware that the units didn't have UK plugs. I also asked if they knew whether they should work in this country, because they don't appear to.
Reply 22 minutes later with apology and refund, no need to return kit. Still don't know whether they are faulty or incompatible though.
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Providing you do get a refund, that seems a very fair response.
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Providing you do get a refund that seems a very fair response.
Indeed; almost makes me feel guilty!
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I am missing something? you say they dont work? Have you tried them?
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Focus,
I've never been clear if these things work across circuits i.e. you normally have a separate ring main for upstairs and downstairs. Have you tried them on the same ring? Though that said, if they don't do what you want, end of story really.
JH
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I had problems when the 2 rings were fed from separate consumer units. In the end I moved the rings so that they were on adjacent fuses on the same CU, problem solved.
p
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I finished up in the deep South of Italy a few years ago (Puglia) and I had go to an electrical shop and buy an adaptor with three pins in a line across the base ie plugged into the wall which then took a standard 2 pin continental plug. Only cost 1 euro but I was stumped with out it, camera and phone charging etc
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Yes, I did try them - as mentioned previously I already have a pair of Devolos which work all over the house. I tried plugging both the new ones into a socket where the old ones have worked, and the new ones don't work.
More significantly perhaps, if you try using the Devolo firmware updater, it doesn't think a box is connected.
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A few months ago two of the joints in our gutters started to leak badly, resulting in water running down the walls. We're now left with permanent stains, presumably from the dirt off the roof. The leaks have now been rectified, but whenever it rains the stained areas look damper than before the rain started. It's almost as if the increase in the humidity of the surrounding air results in the stained surface absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. Is this normal, and what can we do about it to make it less obvious?
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There is a "brick acid" used fo cleaning bricks but i don't know if it would fix your problem. SCREWFIX have a good forum for these problems.
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How long did the problem exist for before it was fixed? It could be that those bricks are saturated and have not properly dried out.
Do not apply any sealer type products as they will lock moisture into the bricks if this is the case.
damp problems leading to salt efflourescence are more likely with ground water than with rain water.
The other possibility is that the fix has not properly fixed the situation. Could it be that the roof/felt is not delivering all the water into the gutter but that some is getting into the wall?
Only way to check would be to get up and have a look at the state of the roof covering and the positioning of the felt/gutters/etc.
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How long did the problem exist for before it was fixed? It could be that those bricks are saturated and have not properly dried out.
Unfortunately I don't know how long the problem existed (I guess weeks rather than days) because it's on a wall that I only see when I clean the windows, and in winter that's not very often. I confirmed that the problem was caused by joints in the gutter leaking by looking at it when it was raining heavily. One joint had separated completely because of movement of the two adjacent sections of the gutter. I remade the joints and the leaks ceased.
The roof has been inspected by a builder so I'm reasonably sure it's OK.
The stains aren't white efflorescence, just a damp-looking darkening of the surface of both the bricks and the mortar. And as I said, after it rains now, the stain looks worse. It's particularly noticeably on the mortar because of its smoother surface finish ~ the bricks have a textured finish. I'll just have to keep an eye on the situation. Perhaps as you say, it hasn't dried out properly yet.
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Shortly reaching the age where I have to renew my licence. It has 3 points on it handwritten on the paper part by a clerk in North Wales Police dept. When I renew, on line or however, I guess that DVLA have a record of the points and they will appear, printed, on my replacement licence?
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I think it depends on how long you've had them. After 5 years i think they will remove them.
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If the points have expired, which I infer from Armitage's post they have, they will be removed - he will get a clean licence with no visible record of the conviction.
I think some people send off for a new licence as soon as their points have expired just to get a clean one.
Nothing wrong with that, although I assume you have to pay each time.
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Thank you. They are not due to expire until Oct 2010 so I guess the new licence will have them them on, as indeed it should! 3 points don't seem to bother insurers or car hire people which adds to my feeling that they are a voluntary tax rather than something that ups your car insurance premium or stops you hiring a car.
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...3 points don't seem to bother insurers or car hire people...
That seems to be true, although six points would be a concern, so you don't want another three just yet.
Don't know what the rules say for age-related renewals, but it would be neater if you could delay until October.
I have genuinely forgotten/couldn't be bothered to change the address on my licence for years at a stretch.
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To 'clean' the licence I would have to wait until Oct 10 but renewal is Aug 09 so I don't have a choice. I do have 2 licences, one with points and one without, but I guess that whichever I send will come back with points on it - either confirmed on one or added to the other! One can have points removed after 4 years but as I think it is at the cost of a new licence I might let them run and point out to anyone who is interested that they have lapsed but I can't afford ot have them taken off!
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 10/04/2009 at 18:19
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In 2007 my wife bought a 'Mantis' rotavator/tiller to use on her allotment. It is powered by a petrol/oil mixture (petroil). During that summer she used it extensively and it proved to be a huge success.
For various reasons she made no use of it at all last year but is about to start work on the plot this weekend. There is still about half a tank of the fuel that was last used about 18 months ago in the machine.
Will it be advisable to drain this fuel out or will it still be serviceable and, as an ancilliary question, will the petrol that has been stored in our shed in its canister since being bought 2 years ago still be usable or should we, in effect, start again by draining the fuel tank and buying fresh petrol?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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I have a Mantis tiller that is used infrequently. I have never had any bother starting *touch wood* over twelve months later. Just give it a go and see.
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Thanks, Robbie. I'll let you know later how it went.
Sf
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Petrol can go 'stale' (loose its ability to vapourize) over time. You might have to put in some fresh petrol so the engine will start.
Also the oil in the mixture might have separated out and sank to the bottom so it might be a good idea to stir the fuel first.
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Pulled the toggle 3 times. Started. Coughed. Spluttered. Cut out.
Pulled the toggle twice. Started. Spluttered. Cut out.
Pushed the choke control back in. Pulled the toggle once. Bingo!!
Running like a dream.
Thanks for the interest Robbie and Chris.
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Pulled the toggle twice. Started. Spluttered. Cut out.
Pushed the choke control back in. Pulled the toggle once. Bingo!!
That's how you start my oldish-fashioned but low-mileage chainsaw. It was always like that. Won't actually run on choke, but won't run properly from cold until it has been spun a couple of times on choke and fired or 'spluttered'.
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If ever my petrol mower is reluctant to start a squirt of Bradex Easy Start into the air inlet solves the problem. Nice smell, too! £2.99 from Halfords.
Edited by L'escargot on 11/04/2009 at 08:31
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