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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/04/2009 at 11:32
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Question for those who understand railways, how can I find out more about a particular train?
At the moment I travel by train to Wales every Monday morning. Every week when we stop at Bristol Parkway at around 9:00, there is a set of "old" carriages pulled by an EWS engine at an adjacent platform.
The carriages are either maroon or "old BR" blue and white.
Nothing unusual on the live departures or arrivals board online.
Knowing the backroom ability on even the most trivial of facts I just wondered
Any ideas??
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They will be from one of the many charter tours which take place all year round. Quite often such a train will be steam hauled for part of the journey and the EWS will be used to pull for some of the journey, or the diesel will be insurance should the steam loco fail.
www.railwayherald.com has details of charters.
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thanks, just curious that it seems to be there every Monday even in what I would have thought of as the close season for charters etc.
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As you have now found there is no closed season for charters.
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What an interesting little site, thanks Davey
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A fair amount of info. for steam charters, at least, here:-
www.uksteam.info/tours/trs09.htm
Edit : is the coach set definately in old style blue / grey, or could it be the 'Blue Pullman' set?
www.cotswoldrail.co.uk/Blue%20Pullman.htm
Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 30/03/2009 at 12:33
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definitely old style colours, this morning there was a maroon one behind the engine (engine being at the London end of the train).
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oohh, just found a summary list of just about all the different coach sets used for charters here, may help:-
www.railtourinfo.co.uk/coach.html
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Got me curious now, must try to get some coach numbers next Monday
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Is a ghost train? A service that runs over a route to keep the slot availble or maintain a grant?,
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When a steam hauled train gets to its destination, say Penzance (terminus) how do they get the engine to the front of the train and turn it round, to pull the train back to London or wherever? Turntabless are long gone SFAIK.
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Unsurprisingly this is quite a difficult challenge, as you say ther aren't many turntables around these days ( although there is one at Yeovil for example). Often a steam special will have a diesel ( or rarely another steam loco) on the back, which will then haul the train in the opposite direction.
Alteratively there are still triangles of track here and there on the network, so a steam loco and effectively turn round by negiotaiting the three sides of the triangle. This still needs a run round loop at the terminus or another loco to release the main loco from the buffers.
For example steam specials to Weymouth involve the steam loco running all the way from Weymouth to Yeovil in reverse to turn round, then back again to regain its place at the front of the train.
Hardly surprising that not many steam specials use the same loco / steam haulage for the whole journey.
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IIRC that new Peppercorn, when it arrives in King's Cross has to go round three sides of London in order to be facing the right way to go back north.
Interestingly, I thought they did not allow steamers to run on tracks with overhead electric supplies. But King's Cross is definitely all electric.
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That was certainly true on the West Coast mainline in the sixties, for certain classes of loco anyway, which had a diagonal yellow stripe painted on the cabsides to indicate that they weren't allowed under the wires.
For example:-
www.railbrit.org.uk/photos/20326.jpg
Yes, some of the 'triangles' I was on about are several miles long on each side of the triangle.
Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 30/03/2009 at 15:51
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Thanks Spamcan and others! I hadn't considered the 'Triangle' option. I should have worked it out as, for months, there was a train on the East Coast Mainline which was back to front ie when starting from KX, 1st Class was at the front of the train and not the back. How did they turn that round I wondered - now I know!
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I can't think of a nice compact triangle that's still in existence, but this shot shows the outline in the trees of the one that used to exist in Southampton, with the old termimus to the south, and the current central station to the west:-
tinyurl.com/cdy3gh
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I can't think of a nice compact triangle that's still in existence
If the triangle was large enough, a complete train could be turned round.
There were a few triangular stations, Ambergate, Accrington etc. Shipley, I think, still is a triangle....and a fairly compact one. I went through on a train last summer.
Ted
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Interestingly (well I think so anyway) a steam locomotive (or any railway locomotive as I think diesels and electrics can too) is one of the few (only?) machines that can, at least in theory, travel as fast in reverse as forwards. This is because the gearing is the same both ways, you just set the cutoff and open the regulator. Sounds simple. Or so I once read.
Thinking about it, probably a hovercraft could too in the days when we had such wonderful machines, but boats/ships can't because of hull shape and screw design and SWMBOs Berlingo certainly can't :-)
Incidentally, anyone within reach of Swindon I'd recommend a visit to STEAM in the old GWR works there. Amongst other things you can sit at the controls of Evening Star and see exactly what working on the footplate was like (except for the heat from the fire).
Terryb
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Terry - does this place in Swindon have a website? If so what's the address? I'd like to take my boy.
Cheers,
Steve
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Alanovitch
It's on www.steam-museum.org.uk
Terryb
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Scarborough still had a turntable a couple of years ago.....took my late parents on a day trip on Flying Scotsman York to Scarborough for the day and then back in the evening. During the day FS was turned around ready for the return journey.
Re STEAM.... I was wondering where Evening Star was currently residing, missed it at my usual visit to the NRM, York in February.
StarGazer
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If you go to STEAM, have a pint in the Pattern Store pub - fascinating place.
In the car park is a large turntable............
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Last time I was there, the Romney Hythe & Dymchurch railway had a suitably scaled turntable in operation
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The makers of my lawn mower - Hayter - specify a straight SAE 30 grade oil for the Briggs & Stratton engine - why?
Surely it would be advantageous to use a multigrade oil? Does this mean that manufacturers of these engines have not moved forward in line with current technology/
I have some 10w-40 semi-synthetic oil in the shed, can I use this? What harm would it do if I did?
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This
www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/routine_mai.../
has a chart that shows SAE30 will work quite well for ambient above 4 Celsius.
But also that "Briggs & Stratton offers a Synthetic 5W-30 oil that provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption" and their chart shows it is suitable for countries where your grass needs cutting at temperatures below 0 Celsius, up to MINUS 30 Celsius!
Edited by jbif on 30/03/2009 at 16:40
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I was careful to use only SAE30 oil for a time.
Until I discovered that the local mower specialists all used multigrade for their servicing/repairs.
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Cor blimey. It's only a lawnmower engine. If it's out of warranty I'd say any old carp you've got lying around the garage would do!
Terryb
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OK - coming out of the closet. I rode 8 miles on a borrowed bicycle yesterday - and enjoyed it - Looking at investing in a decent bit of kit. Needs: - Hybrid (apparently) decent brakes (see below) and easily salable should I hate it. Budget is anything up to about £400.00.
Seeing below:-
OK it was an easy mistake to make, whilst approaching a "junction" on a cycle path I pulled in what would have been the clutch on a "proper" bike in order to change down a gear - only to find it was another brake ! Do they do linked brake jobbies on a bike ?, do they do ABS ?
Edit:-
I should be able to get a "ride to work grant" of up to 50% from my professional body - so I want to actually spend up to £400.00
Edited by Pugugly on 30/03/2009 at 19:19
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A Marin Northside or Specialized Hardrock would be good choices. Might be a wee bit over budget but worth it. If you have a Specialized franchise shop near you it would be well worth a visit. To return to the recs whippy lightweight bikes in both cases which perform just about as well as anyone normal could need.
Trouble is, like cars, once you get the bug the budget keeps stretching....
Avoid twistgrip gear selectors and specify lever operated speed shifters. If you want to stop reliably in all conditions try to find or specify disc brakes but don't bother with a fancy hydrolic set up, cables are fine and easy to adjust. If you will be mainly on road ask for suitable tyres. The really chunky off road types are hard work on tarmac.
Forget full suspension. Front suspension is nice if you do plan to venture off road but rear is a needless extra weight.
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Unless you're riding up mountains, you don't need a mountain bike.
It sounds like you're using it for commuting, so get full mudguards.
You don't need the weight of suspension.
Narrow, high pressure tyres roll easier, but at my age I now opt for the comfort of 35s.
I find a rear carrier indispensible, combined with a cheap, easily detachable pannier from LIDLs.
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Won't be commuting ( :-0) only maybe a token trio but certainly not in the rain. Agreed in the mountain bike thing though.
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If you are unsure what to buy go for a second hand. If you are in an area where cycling is popular you'll probably have a second hand sales outfit close by -then of course there's e-bay.
I remember when I moved to Gloucester the first visit was to the bike shop - he had a shed full of every conceivable type and make. My 12 speed model cost £50. I sold it for 12 months later for the same money.
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Get a decent gel saddle
I'll second that, best cycling investment I made. :-)
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If you can get the subsidy you could make the whole thing seriously cheap and even turn a profit by investing in a stripey jersey, a beret and a string of onions.........
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Never mind that. What is a gel saddle?
Can AE or someone provide an explanation, preferably with anatomical diagrams (unisex if possible)?
Can't wait.
:o}
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It's like a normal saddle,only with a layer of gel under the outer covering, so it's nice and soft to rest one's posterior on, smooths out the bumps a bit when in motion.
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Never mind that. What is a gel saddle? Can AE or someone provide an explanation preferably with anatomical diagrams (unisex if possible)? Can't wait.
Go google lud
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Oh, and don't forget the lycra padded shorts with chamois gusset........
;-)
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I've actually been given a pair of some very iffy looking shorts which will fit under my craghoppers !
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Can we all come and watch?
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If you can get the subsidy you could make the whole thing seriously cheap and even turn a profit by investing in a stripey jersey a beret and a string of onions.........
Yes the brettons and the welsh come form similar livestock I am told
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Might be a good idea to fit those puncture resistant liners between tube and tyre. I fitted the vinyl type and they do the job.
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PU
"Won't be commuting ( :-0) only maybe a token trio".
"I should be able to get a "ride to work grant" of up to 50% from my professional body".
So 'expense' claim creativity does not only exist in the seat of government then!
p
Edited by pmh2 on 30/03/2009 at 22:20
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Do not get a gel saddle.
You will get a far more comfortable ride from a firm good quality racing type saddle with the pads wide enough to support your sit bones. Any good cycle shop will know what to advise you on something suitable. Soft saddles allow your weight to rest on the composit base and are excruciatingly uncomfortable.
And I would echo what others have said about mountain bikes, they are utter dogs on tarmac.
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Not clear how you're going to use this bike and it does make a difference. If it's going to be used on roads or paved/gravelled tracks suspension is money and weight wasted. As are knobbly tyres. Canti or V brakes operating on the alloy rim are good enough for me but then I was brought up on the heartstopper combination of rubber and chrome steel. Law requires UK bikes to have separate front/rear brake levers and specifies which lever operates F/R - opposite way round in LHD territory.
While you may not plan to ride in rain you will eventually be caught, or need to ride on wet roads. The best vfm addition to the spec of my 1999 Brompton was a £5 rear sprayguard - until then every trip home on a rain damped road meant a wet "skunk stripe" up my back.
As for saddles Smokin RR is right on the money. There are some quite good "anatomic" saddles out there at prices well in excess of a cheap gel jobbie but nothing is as good as a well broken in Brooks B17 or similar. Bigger blokes report 500 miles or so of purgatory until the new product has moulded to their b*m, but at 70kg wet through I've had two (and hopefully shortly a third on my new Brommy) like armchairs after a month of commuting.
As other say a good LBS - not a motor spares chain - will give the best advice.
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>>There are some quite good "anatomic" saddles out there at prices well in excess of a cheap gel jobbie but nothing is as good as a well broken in Brooks B17 or similar
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or my Brooks B15 Swallow
tinyurl.com/d3zdxf
or a newer version
www.woolyswheels.com/shopping/images/brooks_b15_sw...g
( not everyones's choice.)
The fact that they are still made must prove their value.
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my sit bones disagree with you. I think the saddle has broken in your posterior not the other way round
Edited by Altea Ego on 30/03/2009 at 23:48
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Your sit bones don't sit as often or for as long as they need to!!
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I have a Raleigh City, black,fairly traditional, saddlebag, pump etc. 10 speeds, I didn't want more than that. High pressure road tyres.
Saddles ? Never got used to the original, tried several including robbing some off other family bikes. Always 'bumache' that curtailed my rides.
Was in Llandudno one day waiting for a train and I was gricing the Pashleys in the cycle shop opposite. Noticed they had Brookes, leather (or imitation leather) traditional saddles with tension adjusters. I went in to see if they were sold without the bikes and came out with one for the Raleigh..
Now there's an idea, what about a Pashley ?
Complete elimination of botty misery !
Ted
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Funnily enough I was in Llandudno today - odd that
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You live dangerously, Pug.
Ted
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All you people seem to live pretty close to the edge if not actually over it.
Llandudno! As if it were just a normal day! I mean, backside!
By the way, I hope you can pronounce it correctly. I can, more or less.
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Anything that you sit on that is soft will never provide the support and/or comfort required.
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Anything that you sit on that is soft will never provide the support and/or comfort required.
I am not sure i have ever read such a wrong statment in my life.
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>>I am not sure i have ever read such a wrong statment in my life.>>
Clearly you haven't driven a long (or even not so long) distance in a car with soft, unsupportive seats.
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Clearly you haven't driven a long (or even not so long) distance in a car with soft unsupportive seats.
Having driven over 1/2 million miles clearly I have. You can not however say that "anything" hard is better than "anything" soft. That was such a sweeping statement to make. Have you sta on a hard wooden bench for 5 hours for example. How does that compare to a memory foam cushion?
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I may well have driven even more than that, but there is an obvious difference between firm and hard seating.
You can drive a Mercedes S-Class, for instance, for hundreds of miles and still feel ready to do it all again at the finish or attempt the same trip in an average hatchback's "soft and comfortable" driver's seat and feel the effects fairly quickly.
My Bora's seats are sufficiently firm and supportive to make even longer journeys enjoyable, rather than a chore.
Edited by Stuartli on 31/03/2009 at 11:14
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For a while I did a 3 mile commute to the station in Cambridge. Started out with a mountain bike. Following a failed bearing, I bought a proper road bike for about £120 - 7/8 years ago now, but I doubt they're more expensive. Benefits:
1. Much higher gearing = goes faster. I spent some time buying the highest geared bike in the shop (the salesman said "they're all about the same" but after much testing of bikes in my price range I bought the highest geared bike I could.
2. Skinnier tyres = less rolling resistance.
3. Chain guard = keeps oil off suit trousers
4. 4-speed Sturmey Archer hub = de railleur doesn't come off at inconvenient moment. No matter how well set up they are I've never had much luck with them.
5. Mud guards don't cost extra
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I would say that, if going for a hybrid, buy the lightest you can afford but I don't think there is a lot to choose between the major makes as most of the frames come from the same sources in Taiwan.
I would avoid twist gear changes. Too easy to change when you don't want to. Also avoid front suspension as it adds weight (the cyclists enemy) and I would prefer standard V brakes or cantilevers if available.
Decent lights are essential and I would also want a Blackburn or similar rear rack and quick release panniers. Toe clips will increase pedalling efficiency but avoid the expense and trickery of clip ons.
Buy a Citadel or Arbus lock and join the CTC.
Finally invest in a Brooks B17 saddle and persevere, they really are the best.
Just in from my regular ride. Thorn Sherpa STi if anyone is interested.
alfalfa
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Pug, I have had various bikes from no suspension, to full suspension and now back to a hybrid. Mine is a Specialized Crossroads and got it a couple of years ago.
This has road tyres, thumb-flick gear change (don't get a grip shift), a standard seat but with a suspension seatpost. I found that bikes with suspension were so much heavier and also harder to cycle as, especially rear suspension, so much of your energy and effort is lost in the suspension travel.
The seat post works really well, gives just enough impact absorption without any weight increase.
Of course there are various sizes of bike, am not sure what size mine is but going by my height (5'8"), they recommended the size below but I was on the borderline and found this bike so comfy and "just right".
I would thoroughly recommend go to a bike specialist who deals in Specialised, Giant etc and try the bikes out. I have a panier frame and bags which I use when commuting and these conveniently act as a rear mudguard as well!
Don't go buying a load of accessories - wait to the next time Lidl / Aldi run their cycle offers! And don't forget your helmet!!!
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I've noticed that nowadays a lot of bicycles have straight front forks instead of them being curved forwards at the bottom. What was the reason for the curved fork design? Was it to aid steering stability?
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It's easy to ride a bike "no hands" when it has curved forks. Less so when they are straight. I'm not clever enough to know why but it's a fact. There, I bet you feel better about today already knowing that........
PS - I accept no responsibility for any injuries sustained to people who should know better while testing this theory.........
;-)
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There is some dimension in the design of push and motor cycle front suspension called "Trail". I recall that it is the linear distance by which the line of the wheel axle in is front of a line drawn down the front forks,. This is obviously down the straight bit! They are always straight on a motorbike SFAIK. The amount of trail affects the handling and indeed, in the good old days, motorcycles were built specifically for use with a sidecar and the trail was different compared with that of a solo model of the same machine.
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It's pure fashion, there is absolutely no difference in the ride of a bike with curved or straight forks, hands off or not. Straight forks do not alter the wheelbase of the machine as the fork is angled at the point where it joins the steerer tube in order to provide the same geometry as a conventional fork.
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Gonna have to test that theory now aren't we ?
;-)
Visions of impromptu BR meetings in various A&E depts this weekend.........
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Gonna have to test that theory now aren't we ? ;-) Visions of impromptu BR meetings in various A&E depts this weekend.........
Just to make it more challenging, we could try the professionals trick of P'ing on the move!
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What, no hands ????!!!
Edited by Humph Backbridge on 31/03/2009 at 12:09
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The curved forks I have seen start straight and then curve forward so they increase the wheelbase of the bike, marginally.
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Straight front forks on bicycles >>
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_fork
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynam...s
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Lots of Wiki verbage but my observations are that the shorter the wheelbase the more jolting the ride.
Plus the added posibility of toes overlapping the wheel on a tight turn which is not a problem with skilled riders but not good for newbies.
Another option is a fixed wheel rather than gears but of course that needs a little bit of introduction :-)
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I remember one of those 1970s Open University programmes on this very topic.
The presenter had a test rig bike on which he could alter the steering geometry.
Altering the steering axis/drop-out by what seemed only an inch or two turned a perfectly ridable bike into one that leant out on corners.
There was nothing the rider could do about it other than fall/step off.
Altering it the other way, he could make the bike lean in to a corner so much the rider was again forced off.
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I've just bought a new 18" rotary mower - the last one was running fine, but the deck had rusted beyond repair. The new one has only cost me £90 (damaged in transit, returned, repaired and sold on Ebay by a mower retailer) so it's not worth buying a pressure washer at the same again to clean it off each time. The issue is that grass, especially wet stuff, collects under the deck and speeds up the rusting process, not helped by a very thin layer of fairly useless paint.
It's a tough life under there, so most proprietary coatings for cars will get blown/abraded off, and it'd be hard to get them to key well onto the paint/steel anyway.
So, over to you BRs - or do I just take the hit, and expect it to last only 4/5 years?
{Moves to correct place, as per the "Please note" message at the start of the thread}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 31/03/2009 at 13:37
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If you catch it while it is new I would have thought that Hammerite (do they still make it?) would do the trick or surely something used on yachts and other waterborne stuff would work. BTW - I am not a gardener or a yachtperson!
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Other than Hammerite, if it's still in new condition I would think that a good car polish would discourage stuff sticking to it (for a while).
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if it's still unused, lightly sand the underside, apply a light coat of fibreglass resin, and then a thin layer of chopped - glass strand matting. Layer it on thinly, stipple resin well into it making sure it's well wetted (it should go almost transparent). Do this several times until you have a decent eighth - quarter inch coating, leave a couple of days to cure, and it should last ages!. Get your resin etc from any marine outlet.
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Now the pups are getting a bit older (nearly five months) we're starting to walk them much longer distances. This, along with the necessity that a time will come when I have to walk them through a downpour, has made me start to think about my trousers (bear with me).
At the moment, pretty much every bit of legwear I possess comes under the headings of 'jeans' or 'work trousers'. There's a couple which are filed under 'linen' for when I'm feeling a bit summery, but it seems to me that none of these headings really offer themselves up as being ideal for walking in.
Can someone open my eyes to the wider world of trousery? I had heard the word 'Craghoppers' recently, and PugUgly mentioning them higher up this thread reminded me of this. Just had a look at their website, and was pretty impressed at their own descriptions of the abilities of their supertrousers. The Kiwis seem ideal for wet weather, and the Nosquitos equally so for hot - but I don't want to go off half-cocked and jump at the first thing I see, so thought I would ask for advice (especially as the Craghoppers aren't what you'd call cheap.)
So, are they as good as they say they are?
Are there other options for hard-wearing, comfortable, weather resistant, cool in summer trousers?
Confession time (I must be getting old): the description of the Nosquitos half elasticated waistband also secretly attracted me with the promise of being able to continue deluding myself about my slightly increasing waist size in much more comfort than I'm able to in my current trousers.
If some of these products are as smart looking and everyday-wearable as described, I might end up scrapping all the trousers I have now in favour of them!
Any advice, suggestions, comments or ridicule gratefully received...
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Having spent more than my fair share of time backpacking and long distance walking, I would recommend any trousers made with Schoeller fabric. It is available in different weights. Stretchy, comfortable, and very breathable. Not entirely windproof or waterproof. If they were, they would not breath so well! In really foul weather use with overtrousers...my favourite lightweight waterproof fabric being 'Event' (RAB Bergen's) which I find more breathable than Goretex. For people who feel the cold I recommend a Paramo jkt...I have 3 different ones, all over 10 years old, which I use for skiing and when popping over the border to rainy Lancs.
Quite expensive, but shop around on t'net. Hope this helps.
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I have two pairs of Craghopper Kiwis and certainly recommend them. Generously cut, quick drying and hard wearing so far. I also have Rohan trousers (not sure which model) and these have proved very durable but they are a bit dearer than Craghoppers.
Definitely good for dog walking and almost in the "smart casual" bracket.
alfalfa
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A couple of recommendations. We have recently acquired some Regatta waterproof trousers with zip-off legs of which first impressions are favourable. Got them at an outdoor show, two pairs for thirty quid.
Cotton Traders also do some value for money stuff. I've got some of their fleece lined waterproof walking trousers which are excellent, they kept every little bit of me dry and warm in the coldest weather this winter. The only problem is I have to turn them inside out and hang them up to dry when we get home because the condensation from my body heat stays on the fleece until the next time they're worn - yuk.
HTH
Terryb
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Thanks everyone, good info from all.
I'm a bit resistant to properly waterproof ones, as I seem to overheat very quickly these days for some reason, and I imagine they would get pretty sweaty, pretty quickly. I'd rather be damp because rain is coming through than soaked in my own sweat!
I'm also not sure about the zip-leg trousers which are available. A very good and useful idea in principle - but when in full trouser mode, do they look a bit ... nobby? And when in short mode, do you end up with the zip scratching at and irritating your legs?
I'm certainly thinking tonight I will look into the suggestions on here and buy a couple of experimental pairs of some sort of walking trouser. See how I go on.
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Lidl are doing trekking stuff on 8th April.
I have found all their stuff to be a good buy'
tinyurl.com/dc7g86 {link to LIDL shortened using the Tinyurl toolbar up above. Try it sometime, it's really quite easy}
Ted
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/04/2009 at 02:12
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The "nobby" question is an easy one to answer. Trousers with detachable bottom halfs in any setting other than the top of a large hill are scientifically proven to be somewhere between "nobby" and "very nobby". In any urban setting they are terminally so.
I would suggest that for walking anywhere in Britain a pair of shorts are the better option with a pair of over trousers in your pack if you think there's a chance of bad weather that would make you cold.
Even if you get severely rained on, standard issue human skin is both perfectly waterproof and dries in a minute or two.
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>> newsletter.lidl.co.uk/c/n?EMID=08500E31VCVDEV8012U...D =5954&RED=newsletter.lidl.co.uk/host/h.php?AID=5954
The link won't work for me. "Missing parameter AID" it says.
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The link won't work for me. "Missing parameter AID" it says.
Just go to lidl.co.uk and check out the special offers
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The link won't work for me. "Missing parameter AID" it says.
Now sorted out using Tinyurl.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/04/2009 at 02:13
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In my area, according to the Lidl website, these offers are running from April 6th.
The Special offers depend on where you live as to when they start, which is why you have to enter your postcode before the offers are revealed.
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Bazza,
I've got Craghopper (good but some in the range are a Charlie Chaplin fit, at least on me. I think the ones I have have 8 pockets! This appeals to me in some childish way!), Berghaus (good fit but pockets are lined with some mesh stuff that's incompatible with keys) and North Face (good but a "generous" fit). They all resist rain up to a point but need re proofing after washing. They are far superior to jeans when you're walking any distance. If it piddles you need waterproof overtrousers.
You're slipping into the potentially expensive world of outdoor clothing! You might want to peek at this months Country Walking mag. I believe they have a review of trousers (pants they call 'em, wonder why).
JH
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Rohan bags have excluded jeans from my wardrobe for the last 20 years. Comfortable, cool, pack very small and dry quickly after a shower and come in a wide range of colours (or at least used to).
Fit can be a bit quirky though, OKI if like me you're slight but some people will find them a bit to "anatomic"!!
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Thanks again all. Ordered a pair of Craghopper Kiwis for £25 last night as a taster. Intended to get a pair of Nosquitos too, but nowhere that sold them cheaper had my size in stock, so they're on the back burner for now.
Other makes will be looked into based on how I find these ones when they arrive (I did see some Rohan Bags, and was interested)
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My BiL changed ISP about 3 months ago but his old ISP is continuing to take direct debits from his account. Am I correct in saying that if he writes to his Bank and tells them to cancel the DD they must follow his instruction so long as he also notifies the old ISP in writing as well?
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His bank will cancel the DD on demand. My bank will do it with a telephone instruction.
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If the friend has Internet or telephone banking, very easy to cancel. Then inform the other ISP.
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Hopefully someone has a clever simple answer to this....
Just had new laminate flooring laid in my kitchen. How do I position my washing machine, under the worktop with little space either side, without scraping it over the new flooring?
I could put a bit of cardboard or something under the back legs and push in, but then no way of getting the card back out so may mean the machine won't be level?
There must be an easy answer to this, I just can't think of it!!
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I could put a bit of cardboard or something under the back legs and push in but then no way of getting the card back out so may mean the machine won't be level?
Doesn't the machine have adjustable legs/feet? Alternatively, temporarily remove the plinth (aka kickboard) of the adjacent cupboards to enable you to get to the legs/feet.
Edited by L'escargot on 01/04/2009 at 07:42
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The machine will be going between a wall and a cupboard full length end panel so will not be able to access the back at all once the machine is covering the gap.
Will need to check re adjustable feet.
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I have exactly the same problem with a cushion floor. To avoid damaging it (again!) I now slide the appliance onto a thin piece of MDF and slide the MDF in with appliance on it. I find I can then slip the appliance off the back of the MDF and jiggle the MDF out.
I reverse the procedure when I want to remove it.
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