***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 271 *****
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PCs. Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details -
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 270. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found:- HERE
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 27/01/2009 at 00:37
|
|
My email address (and I only use one) is on the web. Anyone who knows me can google me and find it. I've had it for over 10 years. I've never had any problems - the odd friendly offer of financial gain from Nigeria etc, but nothing significant.
|
|
|
I know it should be OK to have 30 amps total going through a domestic ring main, because no part of the ring will actually be taking more than 15 amps. But that's only if there isn't a break in the ring. If there is a break, part of the ring could be taking the full 30 amps and the other part nothing.
How would you know (without carrying out complicated tests) that the ring hasn't got a break?
|
Disconnect the ring main at the consumer unit and do continuity tests on the live earth and neutral.
Turn power off beforehand, obviously.
|
Disconnect the ring main at the consumer unit and do continuity tests on the live earth and neutral.
That's a complicated test beyond the capability of most householders.
I was just wondering how many houses have a break in the ring main without the occupants being aware of it? Presumably they'd only find out if part of the wiring became overloaded and burnt out.
Edited by L'escargot on 21/01/2009 at 11:12
|
Alternative. Inspect every junction in the ring - by opening every socket. T&E is unlikely to "snap" whilst in use. (That said, I have seen two examples where it appears to have.)
If the wiring is overloaded, the fuse should blow long before the wiring.
>>That's a complicated test beyond the capability of most householders.
You can have an inspection done by an electrician if you wish.
|
If the wiring is overloaded the fuse should blow long before the wiring.
I assume that both ends of the ring main are connected to the same terminal in the consumer unit, and that the fuse or trip switch will withstand 30 amps. If there is a break in the ring the total current passing through the fuse/trip switch could be less than 30 amps (and hence wouldn't blow the fuse) whilst at the same time the current in one part of the broken ring could exceed the rating (assumed to be 15 amps) of the cable.
Am I wrong in my assumptions?
We haven't got a problem with our wiring. I'm just curious about ring mains.
Edited by L'escargot on 21/01/2009 at 13:44
|
Am I wrong in my assumptions?
It depends.
|
It is very simple to test for a break in a ring main without fiddling at the consumer unit.
Turn off the elec. Remove a socket front and check it has two cables entering the box (i.e. 2 sets of three wires). Remove either of the feeds to the socket, place potentially live cables in a safe position, warn others there may be live cables then turn back on the elec. If there is power (elec screwdriver or voltmeter) at both live feeds the ring is intact. Or do the same test between the two lives but for resistance with the main switch left off
If you only found one cable to the socket it is a spur off a ring and you'll need to find another.
Always remember you can't see elec and it bites.
David
|
|
|
|
>> If the wiring is overloaded the fuse should blow long before the wiring. I assume that both ends of the ring main are connected to the same terminal in the consumer unit and that the fuse or trip switch will withstand 30 amps. If there is a break in the ring the total current passing through the fuse/trip switch could be less than 30 amps (and hence wouldn't blow the fuse) whilst at the same time the current in one part of the broken ring could exceed the rating (assumed to be 15 amps) of the cable.
your 30 amp ring main is made up of 2.5mm Twin and earth, which is rated at 27 amps max continuous. Which means it takes a a fair few minutes to start getting warm enough to worry about. Your Main ring main circuit breaker is rated at 32 amps peak. Which means a peak spike of 32 amps will trip it. Any stuff thats being turned on that is approaching your limit will surge at switch on tripping your CB.
in short dont worry about it.,
|
>>your 30 amp ring main is made up of 2.5mm Twin and earth
I think mine's 7/0.36 ;>)
Edited by bathtub tom on 21/01/2009 at 15:25
|
|
|
|
|
|
I read in the Telegraph this morning tinyurl.com/9hcqh7 that "Britain?s national debt is now at the highest level in more than thirty years", i.e. "£697.5bn at the end of December, equivalent to 47.5pc of gross domestic product. That is the biggest proportion since 1978, when net debt was 49.1pc of GDP, according to figures from the Office for National Statistics."
I then found this site tinyurl.com/a5xp3d which told me that our debt is quite low compared to France, Germany, Norway, USA and Canada. It is, however, high compared to Russia, China, Turkey and Romania. (Given that the information that I am seeing is correct, and that I am interpreting it correctly.)
This led me to wonder if national debt really matters that much. Could someone please explain?
|
|
If loads of countries have a national debt, then there must be loads of people or countries that are rich enough to have been able to have lent money to the debt-laden countries. But it seems they're not the countries that most people see as being rich, i.e. USA, Canada, France, Germany, etc etc. So who are they?
|
Except that National debt is the amount owed by the gov to all of us, not just foreigners. Technically a gov could have a national debt without owing any money abroad. For instance, gov "buying" RBS, HBOS etc is National debt even if money stays in UK (I think..........)
|
|
|
Oil rich middle eastern countries lending us our money back?
|
|
|
|
If only the gov't statisticvs incluided the public secotr pension liabilities and the PFI liabilities, we'd end up with a national debt of about 150% of GDP.
Think of national debt as a bit like a mortgage, It makes sense to let it rise durign the bad times, but it was still increasing during the boom and is now increasing at an alarming rate.
I hate to think how much we'll have to increase taxes to pay it off.
|
>>I hate to think how much we'll have to increase taxes to pay it off.>>
Some of us, thankfully, probably won't be around when payback time raises its ugly head..:-)
Remarkable really after, for instance, yesterday's Government announcement it was changing its mind over not paying for expensive drugs for many seriously ill patients.
Originally it claimed it couldn't afford the £30m or so extra cost to the NHS annually (our money remember!), yet somehow managed to stump up £37bn to rescue the banks and about to increase that sum even more.
|
This government probably wont be around to face the consequences of its current free for all spending, and it knows it. But it may reap the rewards a few years down the line when the pain is inflicted. People have short memories. Haven't we been there before?
|
To answer the question -
No where near as much as a lot of people think.
|
|
|
>>Haven't we been there before?>>
1976 for a start. Inflation under Labour peaked at 26.9 per cent and it went to the IMF for a £2.3bn loan - then came the Winter of Discontent in 1978-79.
The pain was eventually sorted out by the Tories, but it took quite some time in view of what it had inherited.
Don't forget too that Labour devalued the pound under Wilson.
|
What peeves me off is all the imbalance going on here, apart from the fact that loads of bank executives and employees are getting bonuses. Obviously not performance related then? One of our larger banks, which I shall not shame or name, has allegedly writting off a £2billion debt owed by some Russian oligarch (whatever one of those is!) while at the same time presumably pursuing hapless UK homeowners for 3 month's mortgage arrears.
|
I take it then that if some Russian is lent £2 Billion then they do not have to put up some kind of collateral in the event of a default on the loan????
|
>>Wirte off $1bn
I think the point is that it has been written off in the bank's accounts on the basis that it is irrecoverable, i.e. the bank thinks it will never be able to recover 1bn of the 2.5bn it lent.
If they were to foreclose on the loan they would get back even less than they think they would - if that makes sense, as it would be a fire sale.
|
|
|
They probably have.
But if that collateral is worth less than the loan balance and there are no further guarantees in place the bank will take a hit.
|
Reminds me of a saying I heard years ago from an economics lecturer
If I owe you 10k and can't pay, I have a problem
If I owe you 10 million and can't pay, you have a problem
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
'Er indoors has difficulty carrying our 12 kg dehumidifier from room to room, so she needs one much lighter than 12 kg. I've seen an 8 kg compressor-less model which uses dessicant rotor technology (whatever that is!) on t'internet and wondered if any Backroomer had any experience of this type. One disadvantsge I've spotted already is that the power consumption is 400 - 600 watts compared with our present model's 200 watts.
I'd be grateful for any comments, opinions or advice on this subject.
Edited by L'escargot on 23/01/2009 at 14:29
|
couldn't you take over the "moving" for her? ;-) twould be cheaper for you in the long term!
|
couldn't you take over the "moving" for her?
I don't find the weight any problem but she always seems to want it moving when I'm out!
|
|
|
|
|
No comment on dehumidifiers, sorry - but, what are they used for? Well, I know what they do, but why are they useful?
|
1. Drying out plaster
2. Drying out after a flood.
3. If you live in a damp mediaeval house and don't use the fires.
4. If you don't bother opening the windows in any house.
Errr...???
|
5. Preventing formation of mould
6. Preventing condensation on windows
7. Airing damp clothes indoors
8. Airing bedrooms ~ I read somewhere that the average mattress contains a pint of water.
|
|
Good thinking. These are under a tenner at the mo @ B&Q tinyurl.com/cdr9cf but probably the wrong shape. What you need is to modify a cheap shopping trolley.
|
"What you need is to modify a cheap shopping trolley"
How about one of these?
tinyurl.com/c8gpyq
|
|
I have a very efficient circular board with three swivel wheels, used to move an enormous money plant around on - makes light work of it. Got mine in a garden centre but should imagine it would be easy to put a customised dehumidifier plyboard one together?
|
|
|
How about one of these? tinyurl.com/c8gpyq
Hey, BBD, you're talking about my grandson's first move into the world of motoring there !
Ted
|
|
|
|
|
|
Where can I get a cup of tea and a bacon sarny (sarnie?) early on Monday morning in the vicinity of the Cromwell Road/Picadilly in West London?
Easy parking an essential.
|
How early. And how much in the vicinity. And where are you coming from and where are you heading for and where will you park when you get there.
I personally wouldn't be driving anywhere around there at 8am if I could possibly help it.
|
|
Arriving in the West End around 06.30 at Stratton Street (opposite Green Park), from Heathrow.
Edited by drbe on 24/01/2009 at 08:18
|
The Ritz - nearly opposite.
It's a genuine suggestion, if you asked for a cup of tea and a bacon sandwich I'm sure they'd serve you.
|
|
Well I suppose I could use the Mayfair Hotel in Stratton Street, but I was actually looking for somewhere a little cheaper!
|
|
|
|
Just a general question really but why are people phoning me at 10:30pm on a Friday night? One customer phoned I ignored it, she then sent me a text "I think laptop has trojen help what do I do!" I understand the panic but does she really expect me to phone her back spent 20 minutes on the phone explaining its just a spam email at this time of night?
I would not mind but the original job was just setting up broadband I quoted £30 for it, it ended up being a two hour job for £30 (my fault I know I don't know how to put my foot down and say its more).
I've also had a customer who always knocks me down call me up today I stored his number and ignored him, if I do have to speak to him I shall say I am too busy do cheap rate jobs at the moment its full rate at £35 per hour and minimum charge of £25. That will shut him up!
I might phone my mechanic up now and say help! my car won't start what shall I do, I think I would rightly get a few "swearwold off I am trying to enjoy my pints" but for some reason people don't seem to respect computer people, I know a lot of others that do my job have found exactly the same thing, people think you're on call 24/7.
After three years of this I think I am reaching the end of it three years of dealing the general public was good but I need my life back.
Rant over.
|
Hope you feel better after that!
I would imagine its very easy to fall into the trap. It also shows some level of ignorance by your customers. Unless a friend I wouldn't dream of contacting someone outside normal operating hours.
Also I would have thought that two sets of phones to cover business and private lives would help, with an answering service on your business phone giving your work hours.
|
Yeah I do have two phones, but a while ago my personal one was contract and my business was pay as you go, I made the mistake of making calls on my personal one without withelding it, so a few customers now have my personal number, when my contract is renwed in the summer that shall change though :)
I know this is a lot my fault for letting it happen but when it happens at once it does get to me,.
|
|
And don't give discounts. The price is the price.
|
Buy a new SIM card, get some business cards printed with new number on them and add some details of the hours when you will accept calls. Switch it off when you don't want to be called and you are sorted!
|
|
|
|
Rattle,
Going off at a tangent, but because you're self-employed I hope you're paying into a pension scheme. If you're not, don't fall into the trap of thinking that you've got plenty of time and that you can start one tomorrow. If you're not careful tomorrow never comes. It's never too early to start a pension scheme.
Sermon over.
Edited by L'escargot on 24/01/2009 at 10:15
|
|
I suspect part of the problem is that lots of organisations, including PC companies, offer a helpline service that is open outside normal office hours, and your customers seem to assume that you will do the same. Why not send them an email letting them know your hours? If you wanted to you could also offer a special (ie, expensive) rate for out-of-hours emergency work (including telephone consultations). People can then decide whether they really need help immediately or whether it can wait until the next working day.
|
|
Group your callers - friends have one ringtone, others have a different tone and a polite voicemail
|
|
|
>>If you wanted to you could also offer a special (ie, expensive) rate for out-of-hours emergency work (including telephone consultations). People can then decide whether they really need help immediately or whether it can wait until the next working day.
I wouldnt do that. It implies that you are available at any time and sets an expectation. Set the hours you want to work and keep to it. If you are dealing with the general public then there is no reason why then must get sorted at midnight.
If you have commercial clients then you may want to do things differently. But I would try to provide out of hours support by pre-arrangement only.
That said, I did once charge £5000 for working through christmas for a customer who screwed up their system.
|
|
|
|
L'Escargot's advice on pensions is probably good, it's something I've always believed in. However you have to wonder whether money isn't best stuffed under the mattress giving the situation now.
And even before that, I've paid into schemes for over 30 years, good schemes, enhanced my contributions and had reasonably good contributions from my employers. They really don't seem to have performed like I think they should have. (Hate to see the values now...!!)
|
|
|
|
|
I am in the market for an aluminium loft ladder.
Why has the design of them changed?
Looking at the market they all seem to be designed like a ladder i.e. they have round or D shaped rungs.
The loft ladders I have previously installed ( including my current 25 year old one) are constructed with steps, like a step ladder - not rungs. This design is obviously more comfortable to use.
Have H&S regulations condemed my old style (no pun) design as the treads were rivited ?
(At present I intend to buy an Abru Easy Stow. Not cheap but spring assisted)
|
|
Costco do a wooden loft ladder with flat steps, it completly replaces the loft hatch and fits as a complete unit. It is spring assisted.
Edited by Old Navy on 24/01/2009 at 11:25
|
|
I see from the Abru website that they do a wooden one as well, called the "Blue seal delux timber complete access kit". I have had an Abru easy stow for years without any problems.
Edited by Old Navy on 24/01/2009 at 14:19
|
|
I bought one of the wooden sprung type from Screwfix a few years ago, a suberb bit of kit, highly recommended.
Edited by nick on 24/01/2009 at 16:30
|
|
|
|
Just curious why there are three battery terminals on my Nokia mob phone battery. On an earlier Nokia of mine there were four terminals.
I took the multimeter to the three terminals today and 2 of them appeared to be -ve, and the other +ve. But when I put the meter on continuity to check is the two -ve terminals were connected together, they weren't. Only two of the three terminals were labeled + & -. The middle one had no identification at all.
Why not just two terminals (+ & -) like on any other battery?
|
|
Just a guess - but how about something to do with the charging process or charge indication?
|
|
Or to keep volatile memory alive ?
|
|
you wouldnt need an extra connection - that would be done in phone. I still think it is going to be something to do with the charge level. these sorts of batteries have an internal switch which detects temperature increases when the battery is fully charged.
|
|
Caveman - did you run out of things to do??!! Number of terminals on my mobile phone battery.....where does air come from.....where do all the dead birds go.....whats the only word in English without a vowel in it??
|
Caveman - did you run out of things to do??!!
No, I need a rechargeable battery for something else and the Nokia battery I have kicking around just so happens to be the right size and voltage. I just want to make sure that if I connect up two wires to it (to the + & -) it will still charge. That was why I wanted to know what the third terminal was for in case I also need to wire it up to the -ve connection to that as well.
I know this thread is called 'I have a question' but is it really necessary to question and mock other people's questions?
|
I took a chance and soldered the Nokia battery in place tonight and put it on charge.
Instead of the green status light on the charger turning off once the battery was fully charged, it started off bright and progressively got dimmer as the evening went on.
Appears to have charged it up, but something is amiss somewhere because the charger indicator light didn't behave like that before.
As adverse camber mentioned, I'm wondering if the third terminal is for a charging indication? If so, then I need to know how it's wired into the circuit, and whether any other electronics are also needed.
Unless anyone has some more suggestions, I'm left at the mercy of a google search.
|
Where a battery has a third connection this is usually connected to a resistor inside the battery which is used to estimate the remaining charge level of the battery.
See:-
www.nokia-tuning.net/index.php?s=pinout_batt1
Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 26/01/2009 at 08:57
|
|
|
|
Does anyone know if there is a product which can be added to a tank of unleaded whilst my 4 stroke mower is laid up over the winter?
I've read that petrol, over time can evaporate and leave a 'varnish' which gunks up the engine.
Every so often I start the mower and run it for 10 minutes but wondered if there is any kind of additive which would give the engine a good clearout. The mower doesn't have an adjustable throttle so I can't see an obvious way to give it the equivalent of an 'Italian tune-up' at 6,5000 revs!
thanks
|
I have found that disconnecting the fuel line from the carburettor and draining the tank completely coupled with starting engine and running till engine stops effective. Dispose of drained fuel safely. In spring refill with fresh petrol from garage. Works for me.
No more mowing till spring. Hooray.
Phil I
|
I've been told that grass grows at temperatures above five degrees centigrade. My back garden's looking very green lately, the temperature's seven. I'm thinking about sharpening the mower's blades.
Sorry!
|
|
|
|
I had a 4-stroke petrol, admittedly leaded, mower for about 20 years and had no problems that you envisage. I didn't even bother draining the petrol in winter, and the only ill effect of this was that the first start in spring gave loads of smoke out of the exhaust for the first minute or so.
However, as a last resort, you could always consult the handbook!
;-)
|
|
|
|
Could anyone please advise, which is the most popular monthly magazine or weekly paper read by electronics hobbyists or boffins at this time, one where any advert would be seen by the largest number of interested persons?
I refer here to electronics, circuits, control modules etc, not in car entertainment, childrens game consols, hi-fi or domestic appliances.
Thank you
|
|
|
My daughter has just moved into a conversion flat and there is exceedingly low hot water pressure to kitchen tap.
I want to improve the flow, probably with a pump.
This low pressure appears to be caused by both the head of water being very low and (although the feed pipe is 15mm ) there are 10mm tails to a monobloc tap..
The equally close bathroom basin has "reasonable flow" to old style twin taps.
The main cold water tank is in the kitchen and from the top of the water in the tank to the level of the work surface is about two feet / 60cm.
The tank ( s) set up is one I am not familiar with.
Purpose factory built angle frame with a tall square insulated hot tank. On top of that sits a plastic tank with a moulded intergral but isolated central heating header tank.
Possibilities ?
1. Replace sink with twin 15mm taps. Poor image and lack of choice ( cost for small improvement ?)
2. It would be difficult to extend the frame upwards and lift the tank.
3. New tanks in the loft immediately above but not sure if corporate owner would agree ( plus cost)
4.Install a pump.
I know the pump itself will need to be the correct type ( Not a C/H one)
It will need to have a pressure sensing switch on it for auto action.
I have no idea what sort of bar it needs to be or make or size etc.
The floor distance from tank to tap is about eight feet.
It would be nice if the pump also served the hand basin in the bath room, allowing an option of changing to monoblock taps also basin is about eight feet from the tank.
If the pump serves sink and basin it would probably also serve a washing machine and maybe a future dishwasher. Can I assume these will be OK?
All suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance
|
Could it be that the monoblock tap is a cheap import from Europe (altho made in FE)? I have had similar problems once in the past. The cheap taps are specd for mains pressure use only, (which is normal arrangement in France for example), and using with a (low)header tank results in very poor flow rates. I think that you will find other taps specd for lower pressure use.
p
|
|
I wouldn't think you'd need to worry about pumping hot water to a washing machine and dishwasher. Most washing machines seem to be cold fill only nowadays and I've never seen a hot fill dishwasher.
|
I was researching washing machines last week and was assured that there are no machines sold new other than cold fill only.
|
It could be a blockage in the tap. Some tap feeds include a small mesh filter where it attaches to the tap, like on a washing machine feed. This happened to me and I found the mesh was clogged. I removed it and all was well.
A relation also had a similar problem and it turned out to be a problem with the tap. He took it apart, put it back together and it worked fine.
|
|
|
|
|
swop the feed to the tap. ie hot to cold tap and cold to hot tap and see what happens.
actually 15mm pipe to 10mm pipe increases water pressure at the flow end of the 10mm pipe, tho does not increase total flow in litres pm.
|
Thanks for all the interesting suggestions / comments. Lots of food for thought. I was not expecting more investigation from me.
I have not yet looked at the washing machine that came with the flat.
Not sure if it is on the mains.
Useful to know that cold fill appears to be the norn for most modern machines.
To install a dishwasher ( in the future) requires a double base unit to be hacked up :-(
|
|
|
>>actually 15mm pipe to 10mm pipe increases water pressure at the flow end of the 10mm pipe,
Really?, how does it do that?
|
NC - I don't understand the maths (Bernoulli etc?) but if you are watering the garden and partially block the open end of the hose with your thumb you get a spay pattern which goes further which implies raised pressure - or does it?
|
To take your garden hose analogy AS;
Imagine 2 identical taps connected to the same main. One connected using large bore piping throughout, and one with a length of restrictive pipe.
If these taps are opened to give the same flow, the tap with the restrictive section of pipe must be opened further.
If a tap has to be opened further to achieve the same flow, then, there must be lower pressure at that tap.
Phrased another way, there's a pressure drop across a restriction which is proportional to the product of the flow and the resistance of the restriction - effectively a hydraulic version of Ohm's Law.
|
If you take a 15mm pipe and open the tap at one end the water will come out and flow say 30mm further from the end of the pipe.
If you then add a 10mm section to the end of the pipe the water will flow further than 30mm from the end of the pipe. The water pressure is higher in the 10mm section no?
Is this not how landscape gardeners - even in roman times take a head of water ( a lake on a hill, ) and feed it down ever reducing diameter pipes to create a tall fountain of water?
Or am i confusing speed with pressure? cos air flowing faster has lower pressure?
anyway - the narrower the hole at the end the further it goes.
on second thoughts its not speed that causes a pressure washer to create damage, its pressure surely? and thats only because its pumped through a small nozzle.
|
>>ever reducing diameter pipes to create a tall fountain of water?
Yes, like AS's garden hose, you can reduce the pressure drop between mains and the outlet, but only at the expense of flow.
>>anyway - the narrower the hole at the end the further it goes.
Yes, but in the original problem, the restriction, the narrow pipe, is upstream of the tap.
In the same way, the fountain wouldn't work if the nozzle were placed in the pipe between the lake and the outlet - the nozzle has to be at the outlet.
|
|
|
|
I too fancy that the tap is a high pressure tap, designed to run off the mains rather than the low-pressure system.
How can you tell? Dunno.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Going to the Isle of Wight in a few weeks time for a Friday and Saturday night stay. Seen Travelodge and Premier Inn in Newport but we fancy something different.
Can anyone recommend a decent hotel for a two night stay for two adults anywhere on the island.
Thanks in advance.
|
Try tourist information.
There's some sort of legitimate fiddle that lets whoever you have the accommodation with get the ferry tickets for a lower price.
|
|
|
|
My parents have an ageing Triton T80 shower from about 1994. Its on its last legs so needs replacement. Triton still do a T80 shower, but its a new shape.
What is involved in replacing a shower?
Is it as simple as 1)Turning power off, 2)Take old shower off wall 3) Fit new shower?
Will I need any special tools or accesories? Also, do shower manufacturers make new showers to fit existing water pipe / electrical connector locations?
|
IIRC basically under the new regs unless you have formal qualifications or get it checked out it is totally illegal.
www.niceic.org.uk/
www.niceic.org.uk/en/householder/section.asp?SECTI...2
Have a look at part P
"The law requires an electrician registered with a government-approved scheme, such
as the one operated by NICEIC, to carry out most electrical work in the home. After
completion of any work your NICEIC registered electrician will issue you with an electrical safety certificate and a Compliance Certificate to confirm it meets the requirements of the Building Regulations.
You can only carry out electrical work yourself if you can inspect and test that it is safe for use. To comply with the law you must notify your local building control office before you begin any work and pay the appropriate fee for them to inspect the work.
P.S You will be asked for the certificate if you are selling your property.
Edited by henry k on 26/01/2009 at 22:42
|
well according to the regulations, as long as the shower is rated at the same KW you can do it yourself.
|
|
|
|
>>Is it as simple as 1)Turning power off, 2)Take old shower off wall 3) Fit new shower?
VR6
Nobody else seems to have commented... don't you also need to turn off the water supply :-)
Playing devil's advocate... who would know? We had a Triton shower replaced by someone many years ago. It too was a different shape but filler sorted it but they forgot one thing even I knew..... when fitted and plumbed in do not turn on with the temperature control on anything than cold. It will have no water in it and trip the sensor and need an engineer to replace the part.
|
|
|
|
Just a thought - how expensive/complicated is it to get one of the electrician's ticket ?
A post retirement hobby beckons I think ?
|
Pug there is a very good forum on which will tell you the answer I used to visit a lot as sparking was one of my hobbies.
Am I allowed to post it on here?
Basically you have to get a to take exams to become regconised by one of the schemes who regulate sparkies. Its very tough and you get monitored to ensure you're upto standard.
Atm its the 17th edition of the IEEE wiring regulations you have to follow, so there is a lot of work involved to learn that. They reckon on that site it takes around 3 years and lots of practical hard graft which will be difficult at your age.
It seems daft that wiring is so heavily regulated yet garages are not.
|
|
Thanks that's another idea gone !
|
Limousine and driver for hire ? Just so happens.......
;-)
|
|
|
Pug can I post the link or not? Its another forum so I guess not, if you sent me an email I will email you the link back :) it has 100's of threads giving you detailed answers to your question :)
I was one of the people interested and at the grand age of 26 unless I can afford to pay for it all myself I am too old.
The other thing was that there is a lot of physical work involved, e.g drilling through brick walls, climbing under foundations, lofts etc so its not really the ideal retirement job.
|
|
Yes you can of course !. And thanks for the advice by the way.
Edited by Pugugly on 26/01/2009 at 23:00
|
|
|
The other thing was that there is a lot of physical work involved e.g drilling through brick walls climbing under foundations lofts etc so its not really the ideal retirement job.
Goodness rattle you are a wimp
I completely gutted and fitted a kitchen at 52 years of age. Drilling holes and climbing under floorboards iand in the loft space is standard practise in my house.
Ok its not snoozing with your feet up but for someone who is reasonably fit its not tough
Nor do you need all these 3 years before the mast rubbish to be a sparks. Only if you intend to do commercial or industrial sparking do you need the full whammy.
Sparking aint hard. For someone who can read the regs, remember the main bits, can wire a socket and knows ohms law its a complete doddle to be a part P certified.
Edited by Webmaster on 27/01/2009 at 01:08
|
|
I am only going on what the sparks said on this site, but then they were a bit smug and thought they were god, so they may have tried to put people off. There was a lot about experience and reputation too though which is a valid point in any self employed business.
|
To be fair rattle you have to distinguish between the trades. A full blown sparks who can do industrial (415 three phase) stuff does need the full C&G and three years under the lash,
The part P scheme is kinda mickey mouse household stuff and any practical minded DIyer who understand electrickery can pass it easily.
|
|
I can do Mickey Mouse ! I only want to be able to do my domestic stuff - darned hard to get a decent electrician to do simple jobs. I have some external wall lights to wire up !
|
|
|
"415 three phase"
I have simply had to plug in some of those big "kettle leads". Knowing what is going through them I was hesitant when it was under floor and out of sight! The thickness of wire gives you a clue.
... and none in my job description but trying to move a project on.
Edited by rtj70 on 26/01/2009 at 23:30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rattle - some e-mail problem has stopped me pinging you - I removed the thread you wanted !
Thanks Rob.
|
|
Just sent you an email hopefully you will recieve it.
|
|
|
|
|
You want to go for a part P competant persons scheme.
For a complete numpty its a 5 day course, for someone with prior experience its two days. Then you have 12 months to pass the C&G 2382 17th edition - which is the BS7671 wiring regs. This is bascially learning the contents of the regs.
This will qualify you to install at home(s)
|
|
|
|
