What is life like with your car? Let us know and win £500 in John Lewis vouchers | No thanks
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

In the short time I've been using and contributing to this great site I've been amazed at the tremendous expertise which is offered by all you technical buffs in response to virtually any motoring/car related problem. Not so long ago there was a very good TV series called Trade Secrets in which professionals in various fields gave their Top Tips for making life easier and doing things better/quicker/cheaper etc. If it hasn't been done already and I've just missed it, couldn't all you technical buffs and enthusiasts do the same on this site so that we can build a Top Tips section for people to refer to on all aspects of car repairs, maintenance etc. The tips could be categorised in various ways and would I feel be a very valuable resource which all back-roomers could access. What do you think lads ? What about it HJ, Mark ?.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - PB
Here's a couple for cleaning the inside of your car.

You see 'Swiffer' advertised, a mop thing with replaceable cloths that attract and keep dust. Get a pack of own brand from Sainsbury or whoever, and use the cloth to dust down the dash and all the nooks and crannies, switches etc.. No special sprays, just the cloth - and nothing I've seen comes close to making the dash of a car look good in 2 minutes flat.

The best thing for cleaning grubby plastic in a car is just regular soap and water on a small sponge.

Ok, one more, for £6 you can buy a 12V mini compressor that you can put somewhere in your spare wheel compartment and forget about. Very cheap insurance against finding your spare has gone flat just when you need it.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Kevin

I don't want to turn a tech-tip thread into a discussion, so feel free to edit as appropriate.

The handbook for my Chevy has a very prominent warning that grease or oil MUST not be used on wheel nuts or studs. Any rust or corrosion should be cleaned off with a wire brush and the studs then tightened cross-pattern with a torque wrench.

Tips ?

1) Apply a light smear of talcum powder to rubber door seals to stop them sticking if parked outside in winter. It also keeps them supple in hot/dry conditions for non UK-residents.

2) Decorators sugar soap (about £2 a tub from DIY stores) is excellent for cleaning road grime from windshields and wiper blades. It will also clean oil spots from garage floors and driveways without damaging them.

3) Got a long car and a short garage? Hang a tennis/ping-pong ball from the roof that touches the windshield when you're in far enough.

Kevin...
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Ian (Cape Town)
an old hoover bag filled with cat litter, kept under the seat, acts as a good in-car dehumidifier in wet weather.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - PhilW
Good tip about the sugar soap - just tried it on the drive and while doing so noticed how filthy the "white" plastic bumpers were on my BX (ah, that explains the oil/LHM on the drive I hear you cry!) The sugar soap worked a treat on them and got rid of some nasty oil stains caused by a very smoky car (Cit van!) I followed too closely in France. Seems to get rid of wax on black trim also.
PhilW
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - jud
Regarding the wheel bolts, Audi also state do not grease the wheel bolts, the danger of grease on the brake pads being the potential problem. However if you don't grease them the bolts will rust creating problems with removal, BMW also use the same type of bolts. I talk from experience here on a car younger than 1 year. Another problem with the Audi is the wheel hubs rust! this then because of the tight fit attacks the "dough nut" on the alloy wheel. So just to confirm whats already been mentioned above.

My tip (repeated) is to twice yearly remove and lightly grease the wheel bolts with high melting point grease or copper slip (i have used both with no braking problems)remove all surplus grease. Also grease the wheel hub,a more liberal coating can be used here.

Tip two (repeat of above with additions) With the spare wheel carry gloves and a one piece throw away paper overall. And for under the jack a 9"x6" piece of wood to prevent the jack sinking into soft ground.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

Some really excellent tips already - well done everyone. I've also been thinking about tips for doing those tricky/fiddly servicing/maintenance jobs, minor repairs etc. These seem to surface every so often when someone has a particular problem but it would be nice to have them listed here too. You know lads, all those little tricks you've learned which you now take for granted when looking after your own car ! Here's some ideas for tip categories - Small paint/body repairs, fitting/removing awkward parts, cleaning trim & bodywork items, preventing or clearing up oil/fluid spillages, maintaining seals, cleaning/freeing locks, cleaning switches etc. etc. etc. - You get the drift so keep 'em coming 'cos who knows when one of us may need that help !
Thanks everyone.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - pmh
Whilst too tight wheel bolts are a problem, if you cannot get the spare off the under tray you dont have to take the wheel off!

Check annually that the long threaded bolt to hold the under car tray for the spare will undo. Unscrew fully and heavily oil and waxoil the thread.

pmh (was peter)
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - svpworld
Few top tips from here.....

1. Put one of those disposable cameras in your glovebox and keep it there.. never know when you may need it!

2. Essentials to keep in the car (boot) are screwdriver, adjustable spanner, wet wipes in a plastic tub, towel and a spare battery for your keyfob alarm thingy. Also dont forget your alloy wheel key!

3. Plastic bottle of water (or large container)

4. 12V compressor/light unit operates from cigar socket and includes flashing red lamp filter! Saves money as these days garages often charge for fresh air

5. Temporary plastic fuel cap - for when you forget yours in the filling station!

6. A few empty carrier bags (handy for keeping rubbish, keeping your head dry and even carrying water in an emergency! Make sure they dont have any holes!)

7. Spare headlamp bulbs and a few fuses

8. A pencil (pens usually stop working!)

9. Few sheets of paper or small pad

10. A few sticky plasters

11. A clean cloth for the windows etc

12. Spare pair of driving glasses (prescrip) - even a cheapy pair should your normal ones break!

13. charging/power supply 12V cable for your mobile phone

14. packet of mints!



thats all i can think of for now!!

S.
_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - dan
Not my tip but l'll put it in rather than wait for the original author.
Cleaning polish of black exterior trim:
Nailbrush and fairy liquid, works a treat.

BTW that sugar soap business, will that work on colour matched (i.e. sprayed) plastic bumpers or just the unsprayed kind.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - dan
Addendum...
Will sugar soap remove tar deposits from plastic bumpers as well?

Tip:
Carry a disposable camera for 'incidents' in the glove box.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - PhilW
Re. Sugar soap on bumpers. Mine are unsprayed - warning on bottle says "Protect polished surfaces" - I presume because sugar soap is designed to remove oil/grease/fat etc from gloss paint so that you can regloss without sanding (it's excellent for that too!) Don't know about tar on bumpers. However, can recommend turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover for bodywork but not black plastic bumpers since it also puts wax on.
PhilW
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - BigTJ
A few extras for your glove box:

1.Gloves! Disposable rubber mechanics type, just a few pairs. Avoids turning up for meetings with grease under your fingernails. Also useful if you're at an accident scene (protection from blood-borne nasties if there's any gore about).

2.Hand wipes - sometimes the gloves split.

3.Cable ties - you'd be amazed at the nuber of get-you-home repairs you can effect with these things.

4.Waterproof clothing of some kind. Mine's a "Kag-in-a-bag", folds up real small, and it's high-visibility fluorescent green.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - johnCD
I suggest hiding the key for lockable wheelnuts somewhere in the car, not in the wheelbrace/tool roll. If your car is left somewhere where a thief can take your wheels, he can also gain entry with a brick. Don't forget to tell your spouse or any other user of your car where it's hidden!
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - johnCD
I suggest hiding the key for lockable wheelnuts somewhere in the car, not in the wheelbrace/tool roll. If your car is left somewhere where a thief can take your wheels, he can also gain entry with a brick. Don't forget to tell your spouse or any other user of your car where it's hidden!
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

Just remembered that I was told once that cat litter is an excellent product for cleaning your drive etc. of those unsightly oil drips/spills. I think it soaks up virtually all the oil leaving you the much easier job of cleaning the little stain that remains with detergent. It helps to leave the litter on the spill overnight and use plenty of it. Happy cleaning.jg
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

Here's another great tip from Simon 'borrowed' from another thread (Omega computer display) - If you're having the dashboard removed on your car for a bulb failure (or anything else for that matter) why not have all the bulbs changed at the same time - they're inexpensive compared to the cost of removing the dash if this is a complex job as it seems to be on many cars. Thanks Simon !
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - svpworld
On the subject of mechanical top tips, here are a few others that might be worth mentioning, plus some others that came to mind.

If replacing a timing belt, consider having the water pump replaced at the same time. A catastrophic water pump failure on a vauxhall could be fatal given its often driven by the belt.

Next time you take your car into the local garage for an oil change or any work that requires it to be raised on a ramp, take the opportunity to look underneath yourself. Early signs of fluid leaks, corrosion to the exhaust and loss of underseal can save major problems in the future.

When removing the battery connections and replacing, after cleaning the terminals apply a little petroleum jelly (vaseline) to reduce future corrosion.

Switch on your headlights during the day! Silly as it sounds it could save your life if it helps others spot you and it isn't going to increase your running costs significantly. Especially advisable during cloudy overcast weather and if you drive a black car!

Frequently check your rear brake lights and indicators by looking at the reflection of the rear of your car in a neighbours window or shop window when reversing.

When parking on a very steep hill facing downwards, always turn your front wheels into the kerb and put the transmission in reverse (manual) after applying the handbrake. If facing uphill, also turn front wheels into kerb but leave car in 1st gear.

Always press the handbrake ratchet release button in when pulling up the handbrake to avoid wear on the ratchet and overstretching the cables. Once you are used to it, the sound of others pulling up the brake on the ratchet will annoy you!

If you have a recirculation button on your car's ventillation system or aircon, use it to speed up heating the interior or cooling it during winter and summer. In cold weather the heating matrix will warm up the already warmer inside air rather than warm the colder outside air and similarly for the cooler inside air when in the summer.

To demist windscreen more quickly in damp weather, switch on the air conditioning. The air con will dehumidify the air and demisting will take place very fast.

When the rear seats are unoccupied, fasten both seatbelts where fitted. It prevents them from getting tangled in the doors!

S.


_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dynamic Dave
DIY Cam Belt change.

Remove spark plugs to aid rotating engine by hand.
After removing cam belt covers, Carefully run a sharp blade right around the belt while rotating engine by hand, cutting belt into two halves.
Remove one half of the belt.
Rotate engine by hand and slide new belt halfway onto the cogs.
Cut away other half of old belt.
Slowly rotate engine by hand and assist new belt fully onto cogs, making sure your fingers don't get trapped.
Check tension of new belt by grabbing the belt halfway between the two furthest pulleys and twisting. you shouldn't be able to twist belt more than 90 degrees. Adjust if necessary.
Refit covers and plugs.

This method saves having to line up timing marks, and most of the time also saves having to retention the belt.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

More excellent tips boys - keep 'em coming
Dynamic Dave - that's what I call a first class tip - will it work on any car with a cam belt ?
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dynamic Dave
Dynamic Dave - that's what I call a first class tip
- will it work on any car with a cam belt


I have managed it on both an 8 valve and 16 valve Vauxhall engine. However with the recent posts regarding tensioner pulleys also being replaced when changing the cam belt, I take no responsibility for any failed engines through people using my cambelt tip.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Richard Hall
If your car won't start, and you run the battery flat trying, make sure you recharge it straight away. A car battery left discharged will die rapidly, adding another £40-£80 to the repair bill.

And never buy a French or Italian car with an electric sunroof.

Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - PhilW
"And never buy a French or Italian car with an electric sunroof."

Why not? Or should it read "never buy an Italian car with anything electrical in it"??!!
PhilW


'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - M.M
I'm sorry DD but this "cutting the timing belt in half" method is fraught with danger.

First it usually will be really difficult to get the new belt on without properly releasing the tensioner, there will be the temptation to lever/force it on possibly causing early failure.

Second (and as you hint) the tensioner is just as important as the belt with many cars and you can only properly check that with the belt completely removed. The same goes for additional idler pulleys and checking for a stiff water pump where it is driven by the belt.

Third there is a danger of nicking the new belt with the knife you use to cut off the second part of the old belt.

Third if you make a mistake and either cut right through the old belt or the new one slips off you may loose the timing relationship. If you have tried this method because you have neither the tools or skills to set the timing then how will you sort it without anything marked?

Forth this method assumes the timing was correct when you started the job. It isn't unknown during a timing belt change to find the thing was already one tooth out somewhere, you will never know if the makers positions aren't checked.

I have even seen this method advised with the engine running when the old belt is sliced in half. How bright is that?!

I don't think anyone who has ever had to face a customer with a bill for nearly £1000 when a £15 belt or £40 tensioner had failed would ever consider this tip.



David W
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Pugugly {P}
SWMBO gave me an old fashione look when I sugested she carried a cat litter bag in her new Mini.... seriously I would suggest an European Accident Statement of agreed facts, a pencil/pen combo a single use camera.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - dimdip
Pugugly,

what is an European Accident Statement and from where is one got?
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dynamic Dave
David W,

Guess I was lucky, re cambelt change. Mind you the Vauxhalls I did it on were earlier ones with proper metal pulleys, not the flimsy plastic ones of today that need constant inspection.
You're right, I didn't have the proper tools. The 8 valve engine is easy to change the cambelt as once you've lined up the timing marks, they generally stay put when you remove the old belt. The 16 valve engine is more difficult as you need to lock the cam pulleys before removing the belt. I didn't have the proper tools for this, so it was easier to remove half the belt and slide the new one on (as I suggested above)
I'm now fortunate to own a 2.2 litre Vectra that has a timing chain, not a belt.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dave_TD
>When the rear seats are unoccupied, fasten both seatbelts where fitted. It prevents them from getting tangled in the doors!

Also, if you carry anything heavy in the boot (calor gas cylinders, large toolboxes etc) fastening the rear seatbelts might just stop the load from flattening the rear seats in a crash and maybe carrying on until it reaches YOU! Cross the seatbelts over as well, left belt into right buckle, right into left. Remember the Maestro rear seats that used to collapse in a crash under the weight of a week's shopping...?
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Flat in Fifth
1. Another for the clean screen battle: when buying washer additive, if you get one with an extra quantity "free" in a small bottle, then this small bottle stores in the boot, its clear as to what it is, and is there if you empty the wash bottle on one of those really mucky days.

2. Bit more for the post accident kit, tape measure and chalk or similar marking stuff.

3. Self amalgamating tape, magic stuff from marine chandlers. Bind it round a leaky hose and in short time it seals and gets you home. Which reminds me I must change that hose on the washing machine I repaired like this two years ago... OK OK I bodged a temporary repair like this 2 years ago. ;-)

4. Carry a reflective jacket, safer at night if you have a puncture, better still if it is waterproof and you are caught in one of those rainstorms we seem to be getting and you've no coat/umbrella.

5. If you have to change the fluid in an autobox due to overheating isn't it a pain! Normally you can't fully drain down, so the bodgers way is to drain as much as possible, fill it up, run it for a bit, then drain it down again, fill it up and so on. Gradually with two or three goes you replace the old burnt stuff with decent fluid.
My tip, use one of those vacuum oil extractors, marine chandlers again, suck the old fluid out, and do it in one hit.

That's enough for now.
'Trade Secrets' - James_Jameson
Always check your engine oil level at least once a month or every 1000 miles...don't leave it to be checked at each service.

Long intervals between services for most cars nowadays mean that the engine oil level can become dangerously low, to the extent that serious damage could occur. Most engines use some oil, especially brand new ones say for the first 6000 miles while they are running in (as of course do very high mileage engines).
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - BrianW
Look under the bonnet for spaces where you can store items such as a small bottle of screen-wash, jump leads, tow rope etc..
It saves cluttering up the boot and e.g. puts the first two items where they'll be needed.
(make sure the items cannot slip down into moving parts)

If no secure spaces are already there, there may be an area where a small box can be attached with a couple of bolts.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman
Hi Chaps - over the years I've managed to break several of those stupid, fiddly plastic fasteners which hold various internal panels and trim items in position. They all seem to be different so has anyone got any simple tips for working out how they function and removing these without breaking them or damaging the surrounding area..
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Vansboy
When MoT time is nearly due, book within 1 month of current one expiring.
If you pass, you get a 13 month certificate, rather than 12.
If you fail, you get more time to get rectification work done & still have the old test running.
Be aware, that legally & technically, the vehicle shouldn't be used on the road, if it did fail!

Don't wash the car in the sun,lots of dried on streaks in the paintwork.

Use car wash detergent, not the salt laden Fairy under the kitchen sink.

Be cautious about getting out & investigating a minor, rear end bump, especially in an unknown area.
If you do, make sure you keep hold of the keys & your eyes open.
It could be a set up for theft of/from vehicle, or worse.

Don't rely on blip as only method to operate locks. Use the key sometimes, to prevent the locks seizing.

Mark





'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Cyd
On the subject of remotes I did a thread about this and how to look after door locks:

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=56...0
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman
A tip courtesy of Cyd (from another thread) - get your garage to confirm exactly what types of oils/fluids they've used in your car and if possible obtain top up bottles of each. Apparently some types are incompatible and shouldn't be mixed so it pays to know exactly what's already in your car.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Peter D
Yes 13 months MOT but only if you ask for consecutively dated certificates a lot of garages date them on the day they are tested unless you specifically ask. It is not really a 13 month MOT it is just a renewal to the original date.


Ragards


Peter
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - PB
>>stupid, fiddly plastic fasteners <<

Three types spring to mind:

1. One-way, one-shot. Simple 'blank' head, with an arrowhead that locks through the locating hole. They will break when pulled out, unless you can get round the back.

2. Turn lock - have a slot on the head. Turn with great care, try push and turn.

3. Push lock - have a circle in middle of head (the top of an expansion pin). To remove, push the circle in a few mm. To refit, pull the pin back till proud of the top by a few mm, push the fastener into place then push the pin back flush.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Tomo
Do not hide your spare key and remote so effectively that you can't find them when the set in use is lost!

You'll hardly believe this, but I would not have either: after much toing and froing between the dealer and Proton and goodness knows who else it eventually needed breaking into and recovery to the dealer by AA's local agent, a new alarm system by a local firm (to save about another 4/5 weeks loss of car while existing one was re-somethinged) nearly three weeks loss of vehicle and £488.

(And Toad's near rear forced into the kerb by the school run panzers when being necessarily used for utilitarian purposes - any tips on scraped rims?)
Tomo
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman
Here's a tip from Cliff Pope from another thread. Be careful when removing fuses as these may disconnect items which lose their memory and need to be reset (e.g. car radio security code).

It's a very good point Cliff. I used to own a Rover 800 and changed the battery only to find that my car failed the next MOT on emissions. Apparently the cause was disconnecting the battery which wiped the ECU memory - the car had to be taken to a Rover dealer to have the ECU reset which cost £££'s ! No battery back-up for the ECU settings - a nice little earner for Rover !!
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - dan
No way!
That's ridiculous. You'd think the reset state would be the factory settings as bought.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - dan
V6 Omega..don't buy it!
Has your head gasket allegedly gone on this wonderful car? Had it replaced several times to no avail. Well aparently this is common. The sump sits in a water reservoir but no-one thought to make it rust or water proof so water gets into the sump, makes its way up into he head and hey presto! Mayonnaise.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Keith S
If a tyre wears unevenly through incorrect wheel alignment it will not correct itself when the alignment is rectified.

If your tyre has feathered edges, the tyres can make the car pull to one side. Only solution is to replace tyres and have alignment done at same time.

A garage will set alignment correctly. When you come back and complain because the car still does not drive correctly they will change the settings - even wrongly - to try to help, when all along the tyres should have been replaced as well. I learnt this the hard way!
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Cliff Pope
I've just discvered this thread - what an excellent idea.
Thanks for picking up my fuse-removal caution, Volvoman.

Back to sticking wheel studs, I have found the wheels themselves (alloys) can stick to the hubs even with the nuts/studs removed. Once after buying a car and finding I couldn't get the wheels off, and failing to lever them off with a scaffold pole, I had to loosen the nuts and do some hard cornering.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - volvoman

Hi All, just got back from hols and discovered a holiday related 'tip' for those of you who use top boxes via removeable roof bars. Quite inadvertently I fitted the roof bars to my Volvo estate in a position which interfered with the electric sunroof opening mechanism. I discovered this on my journey south and wasn't in the frame of mind to stop, empty and refit the top box even though I had plenty of time when we were stuck on the A31 !). I guess tightening the roof bars down 'pinched' the roof void making opening/closing the sun roof very slow and at times almost impossible. Refitting the roof bars further back not only solved the problem but yielded another benefit since I found that leaving the sun roof in the tilt positon substantially reduced the wind noise and resistance caused by the box making for a much nicer return journey today despite the poor weather.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - svpworld
Here's a simple but often overlooked one. Did you know that a full tank of petrol can add up to 60kg of extra weight to your car? That's almost another person in the car! Save fuel and wear on your car by topping up more regularly - Of course this isn't so applicable for long journeys between cheap petrol stations!

Simon


_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - JohnnyBoy
Not sure if this one's common knowledge, but:
Before jacking up your car for a wheel change, put your spare wheel under the sill on the side you're jacking up - in the event of a failure to your jack, [eg when stamping on your wheelbrace to loosen garage-tightened nuts!] the effects are nowhere as catastrophic.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dynamic Dave
- in the event of a failure to your jack, [eg when stamping
on your wheelbrace to loosen garage-tightened nuts!] the
effects are nowhere as catastrophic.


You should always slacken your wheelnuts before jacking up the car. If you have to jump up and down on the brace, then the car is as solid as a rock as it is still on terra firmer.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dom F {P}
If you use a cross-brace to undo your nuts, slide a trolley jack under the end of the brace furthest from the wheel. This means one end is on the nut and the other end on the jack, leaving you to jump up and down safely on the crossbraces to undo the nut without causing an injury.
Dom F
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - GJD
Only just discovered this thread ...
You should always slacken your wheelnuts before jacking up the car.


The opposite applies too. When you've put the wheel back on, don't forget to check the wheelnuts are properly tightened AFTER you get the car of the jack and back onto solid ground.

Stating the obivous to some, maybe, but I once forgot to do this and drove 120 miles home - much of that in high speed busy motorway traffic. I was horrified the next day when I realised that the wheel could have come off.

GJD
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dom F {P}
On the subject of a full fuel tank adding to your fuel consumption, did you know that aircraft fuel tanks are NEVER left with anything less than a full tank at any time? The reason for this is that at night, the air left in a partly-full tank condensates and causes water to gather in the fuel tank. As water is heavier than fuel, it sinks to the bottom and is the first thing through the fuel pump(s). On your car the same would happen. Fuel for thought, next time you leave your car with only a quarter of a tank!
Dom F
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Peter
Having spent most of my working life refuelling aeroplanes I do know that most tanks are never filled to full, it all depends on the day's flying and distances to be travelled. Water is always present in fuel and there are many process's in place to remove it before flight, the final one being the water drain checks on the "Before Flight" checks. Civil aircraft today take on board many tons of fuel and therefore the water content will be quite high. On a VC10 we removed 33 gallons of water from one tank alone. The cause, we never found out.

However, I was flying in a Hercules when it all went silent at 26,000ft. Too much water in the fuel froze in the filters and starved the engines. Dropping down to 12,000ft unfroze the filters and away we went. The resulting three days in Gibraltar made up for the fright.

Many thanks for the long list of trade tips, I like the one about vinegar.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - BrianW
It is worth waggling a roof mounted aerial up and down occasionally to keep the hinge free. Plus a little WD40.
If left alone it siezes then when you come to fit a roof box or need to put it flat to reverse into a low garage it is likely to snap off as you move it.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Claude
A tip I received from a Marine engineer which I have used successfully for years. Dont throw away a used copper sump washer. Hang it on a piece of wire and heat to red hot with a blow lamp. Allow to cool naturally and it will be ready for re-use as good as new.
'Re use of copper washers - pmh
I believe many modern vehicles use crushable copper washers- particularly French vehicles?. These need to be replaced.

Only solid washers may be heat treated.

pmh (was peter)
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - jud
To prevent spark plugs sizing in, once yearly remove adjust if required and lightly smear with high melting point grease or copperslip, graphite has also been recommend but i have never used it. With spark plug life rated at high mileage's now plugs may not be removed during the three years warranty/servicing period
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dynamic Dave
When changing bulbs, give 'em a wipe over to remove finger grease after fitting them. I'm refering to all bulbs, not just halogens.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - madf
When acquiring a new to me car, I ALWAYS check all the suspension nuts and botls with a torque wrench. It's amazing how you find loose ones.. even on new BMW E36s!

Rattling mirrors (vibrating on rough roads) can be quietened by applying a small piece of blue tack to the edge of the mirror. It acts as a dampener. The same applies to plastic trim.

I always carry a spare piece of carpet about 1metre x .075metres flat on the boot floor. Ideal for kneeling on if you have to cahnge a wheel in the wet.

Plastic clear DIY tape for repairing glass is ideal for protecting vulnerable paint work on boots and bumpers. When it tears, pull it off and replace it.

Replace standard headlamp bulbs (halogen ) with Philips Vision Plus - improves visibility very noticeably (claimed 50%).









'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - shaun
Some people use plastic cable ties to stop their wheel trims from being pinched. If you do this don't forget to carry a pair of snips in the car to remove them when you need to change the wheel.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - madf
For really BAD corrosion of steel to alunium, use vinegar (not WD40).

Dissolves the products of corrosion and reduces the pressure binding them together.

Allow 1-2 days to work though.

If you have used WD40 first, try to remove as it protects the corrosion from the vinegar:-)
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Peter D
Stamping in the wheel brace. Bad, Bad Practice. Go buy an extending wheel brace. £6.0 from any market. Spopped for a young lady on the side of the raod to discover ( Ford Fiesta ) to discover she had jumped on the day the red plastic cap came off and the expoxed spike had ripped open her leg. We left the car and I took her to hostipal, went back and finished the car and returned the keys to her. She was badly injured and called the AA to collect her car and deliver it to her home address. All for a few quid for an extending wheel brace. Stuck nuts may not happen to you Yeah Right !! but you can always stop and help someone else. Cool. Regards Peter
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Steve S
Smearing greasy windscreen?

Carry some newspaper. Crush it in your hand - use like a sponge. Remember to clean the wiper blades with it too.

Must be the print but it works.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - Dave_TD
When you're looking for a street, hotel or business in an unfamiliar town, ask for directions from only these people:
police officer
postman
local taxi driver (of course)
multidrop parcel driver (TNT, Lynx etc)

DO NOT ask these people:
schoolchildren
petrol station cashiers
members of the public out for a stroll

Cab drivers have to pass a knowledge test of their own borough, it's a requirement of their job to know where everything is and how to get there!

The quickest method is to buy a street atlas of the town you are visiting as soon as you arrive, it costs no more than £5 and it saves you an hour or more driving round in circles wasting time and fuel. Pays for itself the first time you visit, and it's still there for next time!
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - BrianW
Or download and print out a local/regional map or maps at whatever scale you need from Streetmap or Multimap.
'Trade Secrets' from HJ's Back Room - chris p crisps ©
My great great grandad told me about that one for cleaning windows , also try adding a drop of vinager
chris