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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 12/11/2008 at 18:58
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Thanks FB & AshT.
Any other 3 users out there ?
Reminder of original post below ............
I'm in the market for a new phone/contract.
I've been with T-MOBILE for a long time and found service to be almost 100% reliable.
However, price of upgrade & new contracts not the best.
I've found a great deal on 3 , but I remember their coverage was poor a while back.
Their salesman assures me those problems were sorted out ages ago, and they now use ORANGE 2G network as a backup when no 3G coverage is available.
The 3G web browsing on phone looked amazing and i would use that regularly but it wouldn't be critical use. However Voice & Voicemail need to be 99.9 % reliable.
Doing a web search reveals lots of disgruntled 3 users. However, a similar search for T-MOBILE finds similar malcontents.
So, are thereany back room '3' users ?
How do you find the service.
Edited by Pugugly on 06/11/2008 at 19:02
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I had a 3 mobile about a year ago but had a problem receiving texts. They were delayed by upto 24 hrs sometimes......not sure if it has improved.
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Under extreme pressure from the other half, I need to show some interest in our garden. I need to turf a small area of embankment. I think I can cope with the practical problems but one question haunts me when is the best time to lay turf ?
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Too late now IMHO unless you are in the CIs or S of France
Buy and lay early Spring 09
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Cheers - some green painted earth then :-(
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Grass seed probably cheaper than paint! I had an area to grass this time last year (and another area even later) where I had removed some slabs and a path. Bit of topsoil, raked over, packet of grass seed from Wilkos and now you wouldn't know it from the long established lawn. Didn't grow much over winter though it did germinate and "green" the ground but in spring it grew like mad.
Grass needs temps over 6 degrees C to grow - most of our winters have a fair bit of time above this temp and there is usually plenty of rain to help it germinate.
Edited by PhilW on 06/11/2008 at 21:21
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Mmm yes, I have some grass seed in the garage....may sow them to see what I reap.
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>Cheers - some green painted earth then :-(
Astroturf held down with tentpegs is much quicker. You can even pretend to mow it at weekends.
Kevin...
Edited by Kevin on 06/11/2008 at 21:35
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Either turf or seed will be ok even now if you cover it with sheets of bubblewrap. It acts as a sort of localised greenhouse but won't stifle the growth. You would need to peg that down of course to resist the wind. Punch a few holes in it to let water/rainfall in.
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Do I need to put (aka pay someone else to) put something between the turf and the existing soil surface ? Just to illustrate my knowledge level, when I was asked by the Gardner type person what sort of soil I have the only answer I could give was "er....brown"
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Ideally a layer of light topsoil to allow the two surfaces to bond. Half an inch depth is ample. Obvioulsy if the soil you've got is nice and light and easily raked to a slightly rough surface then you're laughing. A garden rake followed by a lawn rake is the ideal combo to get a good surface.
I'd use seed if i was you - it's miles cheaper than turfing
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Ah - laughing - right.
Thanks for the input. Just been to check out the scene of the proposed lawn.
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Get a bag of topsoil, a large box/bag of grass seed and some bubblewrap from B & Focus or somewhere.
Find a bucket. Decant the topsoil into the bucket until 3/4 full. Chuck in a handfull of grass seed. Mix well. Tip bucket onto area to be seeded. Repeat until you have evenly spaced mounds of soil/seed on the target zone. Rake to suit. Water gently. Cover with sheets of bubblewrap and peg it down.
Go to pub with money not spent on turf or person and sound knowledgeable in the snug on matters horticultural.
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Astroturf ..........
1st athlete "Which do you prefer, grass or Astroturf?"
2nd athlete "I don't know, I've never tried smoking Astroturf."
Sorry!
;-)
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I've laid turf when it was snowing. It still grew ok.
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Guide to laying turf. tinyurl.com/38ldtl
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I just filled a garden pond. Tamped the lower layers of soil down, then about two inches of light topsoil not tamped. Spread grass seed over and raked in on 1st september. Already has perfect head of hair.
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Grass seed. And stuff the bubblewrap. And come the spring, more grass seed if it's a bit patchy.
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lots of good suggestions
>>I need to turf a small area of embankment.
>>
I have an image of rain arriving and later a bald embankment with a wonderfull green edge to its base.
One test may be to ask if turf is available at this time of the year :-)
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Where would you like the bubblewrap stuffed Mapmaker ? No, hang on I've just thought of somewhere....hold still....
;-)
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Already has perfect head of hair.
I could do with some of that! Where on earth did you get the seed?
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You can ideally pre-germinate the grass seed.
Mix it as recommended using slightly damp topsoil and keep it in black bin liners for a week or so until it sprouts. Then spread the whole lot onto the bank.
This stops you providing a free banquet to the pigeons.
If you go for turf the only thing to remember is green side up.
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Following the thread about turf, thought I would get some decent solutions to my problem!
Our young rescue collie is a determined miner. His latest excavation, of many, is nearly a foot deep - enough for him to store several toys and garden debris he has taken a fancy to - and for me to trip on.
I have filled his mineworks on several occasions using topsoil, seeding and covering with the metal grate which normally enhances the door step. As soon as the grass has grown and I am happy the repair is complete - the hole is re-excavated.
Any ideas?
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Our sadly missed collie, Max, used to do the same thing. I eventually stopped him by filling the mine back in but burying a partially inflated balloon just below the surface, within the reach of the first few pawsfull of earth. The idea is for the balloon make an unexpected noise, not blow the dog out of the garden! A few repeats of this treatment did cure him. Will, the 22 week old collie pup looks as if he will need the same approach soon, unless, of coarse, he strikes oil.
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We have a Toro self-propelled lawn mower with a Briggs & Stratton petrol engine. You start it up, the engine fires and you push the handle. Usually the handle depresses maybe 25mm, drive is engaged and away you go.
After hitting something (I think it was a patch of conkers) it just wouldn't move forwards under its own power any more. The engine was running and it would contentedly continue cutting - I just had to push harder to make it move forward when it sometimes gave off a burned rubber smell.
I've poked about underneath and can see how pushing the handle, tightens a cable and changes the tension in the rubber belt but can't see any way to adjust it or make it drive the wheels. I've now got until about March to sort it out, but thought I'd ask early.
Any ideas please?
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The conkers probably tried to stall the engine and stretched the belt. Get a new belt.
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Drive belt sounds kernackered, ever had the mower serviced?, take it to your local mower service joint, with a bit of luck they will give it a good service and going over and replace the belt for less than £30. Give them a call, worth an enquiry?
CBG
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Ah! this old Chestnut ;-)
Toro mowers here: tinyurl.com/63qy7o
manual finder here: tinyurl.com/2r9l77
links maybe of some help to you
Billy
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Thanks billy25 but I have the user manual - it's more of a workshop manual with exploded diagrams that would be helpful.
Looks like a trip to the supplier then.
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Hi
This is a follow-up to my electric water heater issue. I let the system cool down and unscrewed the cap covering the schrader valve (standard car/bike size). Unfortunately there is extremely restricted access such that there is only enough room to unscrew the cap and remove it due to the position of the valve next to the metal casing.
So...does anybody know of a foot or cycle pump that will fit onto a valve with so little room?
I tried a cheap argos bike pump:
www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/3333712/...m
which has a flexible tube (not shown) that attaches to the pump but the schrader end couldn't be moved into place as it was still too wide.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Somehow i think you will struggle to find a slim-line schrader valve that will fit the expansion chamber with it in-situ, in the position you describe,(it will probably have originally been "charged" prior fitting), so you have 3 options that i can see:
1. remove - recharge- refit
2. remove side of casing
3. drill hole in casing to allow fitment of connector.
Also i don't think you will manage to get 3bar pressure with a Bike-pump, you may need a heavy duty footpump at the very least.
Billy
Edited by billy25 on 07/11/2008 at 22:15
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Your only chance with a bike pump is this type
tinyurl.com/65t7aa
This is just an example I grabbed from Fleabay
Edited by henry k on 07/11/2008 at 22:25
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I meant to add: what would be ideal is a *very* compact right-angled connection if that makes sense....
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I meant to add: what would be ideal is a *very* compact right-angled connection if that makes sense....
>>
Carry on searching Fleabay for a similar pump to the one I linked to or seach bike sites like---
www.twenga.co.uk/dir-Sports,Cycling,Bicycle-tyre-p...2
{removed full stop at end of link to get it to work}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 07/11/2008 at 23:56
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Would a right-ange adaptor like this help? tinyurl.com/6p8ps7
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Grumpy mode ON
I have have the pleasure of living in a desirable location overlooking a village green and well kept tree adorned church yard. This morning the contractors removed all leaves from the church yard using leaf blowers. Result, (temporarily), a very tidy church yard, but a road and front driveway now littered with an excess of relocated sippery fallen leaves.
If I just redistributed all my garden waste into the road and churchyard I dont doubt that somebody would get upset! So my question is, what is the purpose of leaf blowers if they only redistibute the waste to other peoples property? And is the contractor in breach of any waste/rubbish byelaws or similar?
Grumpy mode OFF :)
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Have you tried a polite word with the vicar/rector?
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Have you tried a polite word with the vicar/rector?
Yeah, but then he'll have to escalate the problem to the boss and you know how long that takes...
Buy your own leaf blower and blow it all back in?
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I will escalate directly and pray for a North wind ;)
The contractor is known and can be shall we say can be 'difficult'.
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The Old Man may have provided the solution this weekend with a decent puff of wind.
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I will escalate directly and pray for a North wind ;) The contractor is known and can be shall we say can be 'difficult'.
All folk, difficult included, have skeletons or an Achilles heel. Use it to your advantage if he won't be reasonable. The bigger they come they harder they fall.
MD
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The Lord delivered. I must evaluate my faith in the power of prayer!
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I'm looking at buying a new telly for the bedroom, and it needs a wake up alarm function which seems pretty rare.
Having found a Philips which does the trick, cheapest UK price is £249 on Amazon. However the same model can be had for $255, and I will be in the States in March. Even with the current dollar rate that is considerably cheaper.
So, does the PAL/NTSC/SECAM thing apply to digital TVs, or was that just an analogue thing? I've read a bit and am none the wiser. This will be connected to a Virgin media cable.
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Check the spec on Philip's website - all my recent tellies have had a switchable mode in this respect.
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Don't forget the US 110 volts standard.
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Most digital devices have multivoltage auto sensing power supplies these days. worth checking tho
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I'm not sure USA implementation of DVB-T is the same as the UK, so as PU says I'd check the manufacturer's website.
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My recent move means that I am using a gas-fired combi boiler for the first time in my life (Previously I either didn't have central heating or, latterly, had an oil-fired boiler)
I am surprised, nay horrified, at the amount of heat being lost from the exhaust, I would liken it to Mrs S's hairdryer at full throttle. It would not be possible to hold one's hand in the blast for many seconds, whereas the balenced flue for my previous oil-fired boiler only ever got luke-warm, in fact the ivy used to grow round it :-o
Is this apparent inefficiency a characteristic of such boilers (mine is a 6 year Baxi 105e) or are the latest models less profligate with their waste heat.
I am presently thinking of all sorts of impractical, and probably illegal, ideas to utilise this wasted resource ;-)
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Well you could start by asking Mrs S to dispense with her hairdryer.......
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Steptoe,
you could check it's efficiency here www.sedbuk.com/
JH
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There is something like a steam locomotives chimney mounted horizontally, high on the wall of a neighbours house. It produces a great `sighing - exhaling` sound that can be heard in our bathroom and a plume of steam up to 4 metres long. Similar to a whale surfacing in both audio and visual, although, there is a touch of Gresley A4 Pacific about it too.
(so I don`t mind it, memories... ;)
I was thinking about extending a thermo-whatsit or turbine over to it under cover of darkness to generate some electricity, or alternatively an alloy plate with under mounted jamjar to collect distilled water.
;)
Edited by oilrag on 09/11/2008 at 10:56
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This website has plenty of interesting info:
www.bhl.co.uk/boiler_plumbing_info.php?name=Conden...2
including the changes three years ago with regard to the efficiency of condensing boilers.
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Thanks JH, that was a useful link, depressing but helpful :-(
My gas combi boiler, not being a condensing model, has an efficiency rating of 78.6% whilst the old non-condensing oil-fired boiler has a rating of 85.1%.
....so the hand-over-exhaust check was fairly representitive after all!
However, without going to the bother of actually working it out, I suspect that to replace with a condensing model rated at 91.5% would not be cost effective
Also useful info re condesnsing boilers from Stuartli
Am wondering if I could duct the exhaust to defrost windscreen...
Edited by Steptoe on 09/11/2008 at 11:59
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Yes, I've come to the same conclusion. My oil boiler is (from memory) about 85% efficient so I could replace it with a super duper modern one and get the money back some time after I die.
I see that there is a fad now that "you should replace your boliler if it's more than 15 years old" Why? It'll never pay back.
JH
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My old Thorn boiler is 26 years old, still going and is repairable for those that can be bothered.The design is very simple with very little to go wrong.New boilers are over priced over complicated less well made and not reliable with a short life span. So to sum up its more cost effective to keep the old one going.
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I agree that many energy saving alternatives are not cost effective. Even the so called financial experts on BBC's working-lunch can be seen every now and again extolling the virtues of wind, solar and heat-pumps and quoting "payback" times which completely ignore the debt/interest and/or opportunity cost of the capital. When you point these shortcoming out to them, the usual response is that you should think of the benefit you are doing to the planet by using less energy albeit at a at a higher overall cost to you.
re. Boilers over 10 years old:
Just don't let a British Gas CORGI man near it. Allegedly, they will to find some excuse to condemn it as unsafe.
[search google uk for these words : condemned corgi gas boiler repair ]
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SWMBO mobile is quite old, (at least five years and maybe a couple more at a guess) and I need to replace it.
It is billed as a second 'phone on my monthly Orange account and as it is very rarely used. I would like to keep this arrangement, as the average bill for this 'phone is less than £2 per month, so it's a cheap way of having some emergency cover without having to worry about top-up's, etc.
Based on the above, it makes sense to keep the existing SIM card and just get a new "SIM free" handset.
My problem is will the old SIM be compatible with the latest handsets?
Also can anyone suggest a good place to get a SIM free handset?
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An Orange PAYG phone will probably be cheaper than SIM free. Never had any problem shifitng SIM's between Orange contract and PAYG phones.
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Agreed, a cheap PAYG likely to be cheaper than a SIM free, and swapping PAYG for contract SIMs within one network almost always works.
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If you do not need a 3G capable phone then you can take advantage of how Carphonewarehouse does it's stock. All PAYG phones are unlocked but not available on all networks... all you have to do is buy one with a SIM (so you can add £10 to the price) but use your own SIM. Sometimes you get good deals on handsets this way.
A while back got a Sony phone for my son on O2 (at the time) but got an Orange PAYG package. It worked fine. The same phone is now working fine on Virgin Media for £10 PAYG for 300min/300text per month.
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rtj
That's my expererince as well; CPW staff explained as much when we bought Mrs B's Sony Ericcson w/o any network branding. Bromp junior's on the other hand was boxed and branded to Orange, but as we're all on that network locking's not really an issue.
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Have a look at Tesco's SIMs @ £2.59? they are very cheap and payments are flexible - worth considering.
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Anyone who's a Virgin Media customer should look at their PAYG SIM offer too with Virgin Mobile. It's £10/month and 300 any-time any-network minutes and 300 texts. You can also get it as pay monthly for that but I don't want my son racking up a bill by accident ;-)
Edited by rtj70 on 10/11/2008 at 11:53
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I am sure I recently saw an ASDA sim for 50p tied, I think, to Vodafone. 8p per min iirc
MD
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I have an Onkyo home cinema amp. Im using Orb Audio speakers and when listening to music or the TV the amp does not seem to be that loud. On volume '50' its about the same level you might listen to the tv - i.e. not that loud.
If i turn it up to say 85 or 90 it is very loud but between 0 - 50 there is hardly that much power.
Are there any source volume settings that i need to check?
Its the same problem while using Sky or the playstation.
I have a 5.1 sytem by the way. Same problem is apparent while in full 5.1 mode or just the front stereo system.
I dont think its a duff amp, but would like to eliminate everything i can before taking it back.
thanks
dave
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It sounds like it's working fine, if it gets up to 'very loud' then there's nothing wrong with the amp. You might want to check the connections at the back - make sure you haven't plugged a speaker in the wrong way and are inverting the sound that's coming out.
Different speakers work with amps differently, you might just have speakers that aren't very sensitive.
You'll find it funny getting used to the stepping of a digitised volume control - not like a proper pot when you could put it up to 10 O'clock and know by then that it should be loud enough.
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Will try to keep this short and to the point.
Bought washer/dryer online June 06. Last week broke down. Although out of first year warranty, was covered by a 5 year manufacturer parts warranty. Phoned them to arrange repair, parts only covered and call out fee was £99.
So, hoping it was a minor problem, called out a local company instead who was only £50. He diagnosed requires main PCB and cost will be about £140.
Contact Trading Standards who advise under the Sale and Supply of Goods Act, this should last 5 years no matter what the warranty is. Quote this to retailer who advises get lost!
Contact TS again and they advise need to launch a small claims action. However, I do not know where to proceed here
1. Pay £99, get their guy out, get the part replaced free under manufacturer guarantee and then subsequently raise action for £99 cost. Will I also be able to claim for initial call out fee for my guy?
2. Get my guy to order the part and fit it and raise a claim for the £140 plus his call out fee
3. Forget it all and go any buy a new machine!
Although (3) may be the less hassled way of dealing with it, since TS advised that it should work for 5 years and if it doesn?t, I can claim back, then it is sticking in my throat to not do anything about it!
Meanwhile the clothes are piling up??
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Bobby, am I right in thinking you're in Scotland?
Do you have anything similar to the English Money Claim on Line service for small claims?
See www.hmcourts-service.gov.uk/onlineservices/mcol/in...m for how it works down here.
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Your contract is with the retailer and not the manufacturer. If it was me I would put in writing (recorded delivery) to the retailer that you give them x days to get this fixed for you and that if they don't then you will get it fixed yourself and pursue them for the costs via the small claims court. See: www.moneyclaim.gov.uk
Without naming the retailer can you specify the brand of the item as some of the cheaper brands aren't renowed for their longevity.
Might be worth a look at: www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/
Edited by Martin Wall on 11/11/2008 at 20:04
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Depends how much it cost.
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Yes I am in Scotland. Trading Standards have advised me throughout, I sent the recorded delivery letter explaining the situation, (the day after I sent an email) giving them 14 days to get back to me with a solution ie. repair or replace. Item is a Hotpoint washer/ dryer.
This is the email they sent me:
Thank you for your email about your Washer Dryer. I am sorry to hear of the issues you have had with the appliance.
I can assure you that we do take our commitment to our customers very seriously and an efficient and helpful service remains at the heart of everything we do.
The appliance is provided with a one year labour and 5 years parts manufacturer's warranty. As this warranty expired before the fault and no extended warranty was purchased, I am sorry but the responsibility lies with you to arrange for the appliance to be repaired.
In your letter you mention Trading Standards. Our procedures are standard practice when selling on the internet and are in line with the Distance
Selling Regulations. I have attached a link for your information
www.berr.gov.uk/consumers/buying-selling/distance-...l.
We feel we have acted fairly and in accordance with these guidelines.
I am very sorry to tell you that we are unable to offer an exchange or full refund of your appliance.
Trading Standards advise me that they are still in breach, they mentioned an Act called a Prescription or Prescriptive something or other (left my notes at work) and that I would now need to proceed via small claims.
They were unsure though when I asked what is the best way forward ie, which of the options I mentioned above should I try to proceed with?
Item cost £340. Apparently to raise an action under £200 icosts £15, over £200 is more, poss £60?
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Selling Regulations. I have attached a link for your information
www.berr.gov.uk/consumers/buying-selling/distance-...l
We feel we have acted fairly and in accordance with these guidelines.
[remove full stop at the end of the link to make it work].
BobbyG: The page you want is
www.berr.gov.uk/whatwedo/consumers/buying-selling/...l
Look up the "related documents" linked on the right hand side of that page, especially
www.berr.gov.uk/files/file25486.pdf [see flow diagram on page 6 of that document]
"A traders guide: the law relating to the supply of goods and services (505KB)"
Edited by jbif on 12/11/2008 at 09:35
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>>I would put in writing (recorded delivery) ...
I wouldn?t.
In my opinion, and experience, (un)recorded delivery is not worth paying for. Just as well to obtain proof of posting and save yourself 70p.
Clk Sec
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Proof of posting isn't proof of delivery. Recorded delivery is. Well worth the 70p if it's important.
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Proof of posting isn't proof of delivery. Recorded delivery is. Well worth the 70p if it's important.
That may be the case but my recent experience makes me agree with Clk Sec; I've had several letters/small parcels sent to me via RM Recorded Delivery - and the postie has just either popped them through the letter box or left them on the doorstep. In a couple of the cases I contacted the senders and asked them to get their postage refunded.
I never bothered to check the RM website where you are supposed to be able to check the receipient's signature......
Edited by Chad.R on 12/11/2008 at 09:54
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>>Recorded delivery is. Well worth the 70p if it's important.
It's only worth the 70p if a signature is obtained at the receiving end.
Clk Sec
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>>It's only worth the 70p if a signature is obtained at the receiving end.
Which it will be if delivered to a business.
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>>Which it will be if delivered to a business.
So I wonder, then, what happened to the signature for the documents I sent via recorded delivery about a month ago.
Don?t take my word for it - have a Google.
Clk Sec
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Take it up with the Post Office, not me. I don't give a toss. I've never had a problem.
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>>I've never had a problem.
Sounds like you?ve got several to me.
Clk Sec
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I don't know if the company involved is a member of Retra, but the organisation's customers rights section on its website could prove of interest, particularly about a reasonable period of use which should be provided by various types of electrical goods.
www.retra.co.uk/consumer_info.asp
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1. Pay £99 get their guy out get the part replaced free under manufacturer guarantee and then subsequently raise action for £99 cost. Will I also be able to claim for initial call out fee for my guy? 2. Get my guy to order the part and fit it and raise a claim for the £140 plus his call out fee 3. Forget it all and go any buy a new machine!
You have a duty and obligation to minimise the loss, so you can only claim for the lowest actual losses.
Leaves you with option 1
I think TS are wrong btw. The manufacturer is meeting is obligation by providng the parts free.
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I think TS are wrong btw.
I am probably wrong, but I have heard it said that in Scotland there is a 5 year period during which a consumer can ask the supplier to repair/replace a faulty product.
EDIT: I was wrong in my understanding -
www.retra.co.uk/consumer_info.asp?p=20
In reply to BoobyGItem is a Hotpoint washer/ dryer.
It may be better for you to dump this and buy something else if it is anything like this:
www.unbeatable.co.uk/p_rupr/Hotpoint-WD860-Front-L...l
Otherwise do a DIY repair.
www.2ndwave.co.uk/manual.html
www.diynot.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=11
www.fixed4free.com/questions.php?id=40
www.fixya.com/support/hotpoint/washing_machines/f1...9
www.howtomendit.com/questions.php?id=40
Edited by jbif on 12/11/2008 at 10:19
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jbif - that is the exact model!
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BobbyG,
it's nice to know that Hotpoint are making progress. We had one of their washer/driers about 15 years ago. That had 5 years parts.(The parts warranty gives them good profit on labour to fit)
The first year their engineer spent so long at the house repairing it that we were going to work out a bed and board rate. I came home from work one day after the 5 year parts warranty had expired and found it with the door welded shut to its seal, full of water and washing and obviously not well. I siezed the oppertunity to disconnect it, drag it outside and beat it to death and beyond with a lump hammer. It was the (only) most satisfying act of revenge I have ever commited.
Since then any washing machine with a Hotpoint badge on it has been banned from the house.
Good luck, by the way.
Edited by mjm on 12/11/2008 at 16:20
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>>I think TS are wrong btw. The manufacturer is meeting is obligation by providng the parts free.
But OP's contract was with the retailer, not manufacturer. OP is alleging goods not fit for purpose; not anything else under a warranty.
Cheapest way to deal with broken washing machines is to put them in the car and take them in for diagnosis. Probably won't cost you more than a tenner, not the £50 callout.
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I want to buy a wall mountable 19" widescreen HD TV, between 19" - 22". Freeview not required as feed will be from Virgin + box (HDMI or SCART). Cost isn't critical.
The Must Have is a wake up alarm/on timer. I've had a lot of trouble finding brands which include this. Humax and Philips were the first I found, but the (few) Humax reviews I've found say that the sound is bad.
Having bought an LG with this functionality from Argos at the weekend, when I plugged it in you can set the wake up only to the Freeview input channels - i.e. not to the SCART or HDMI input. Mailed LG and they confirmed that is how it works. So it's going back.
Can anyone recommend such a beast?
(I hope I haven't previously posted about this here: I have a feeling of deja vu typing this, but couldn't find it here on a search. I've enquired on avforums and digitalspy with no luck yet)
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>>I hope I haven't previously posted about this here: I have a feeling of deja vu typing this, but couldn't find it here
It is here:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=68...8
[found by forum search limited to discussion, <1week, author = smokie, message body = philips alarm ]
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Nice one jbif. I wonder if they're looking for a new mod? ;>)
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Nice one jbif. I wonder if they're looking for a new mod? ;>)
No chance of me applying nor expecting to get it if I applied.
[ I have very little patience and am far too severe - maybe even topping the modera-domina-trix !
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=63...6 ].
Edited by jbif on 12/11/2008 at 13:28
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Smokie, just a thought that may widen your options. Don't worry about whether the TV is HD or not. At 19", the human eye cannot resolve the individual pixels even on a normal definition telly - it's beyond the diffraction limit.
HD can do no harm, and if you want to sit inches away from it HD would look better, but ignoring that requirement might widen your choices...
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Whoops re the searching! Been standing in the stupid corner for an hour in penance...
But at least my question has changed a little. btw it seems a US telly WOULD work here, but I can't be sure...
Gordon - re HD - HD is not critical actually, but you'd probably be hard pushed to find one without! And while you may not be able to see the individual pixels, the fact that they are there makes a much clearer and colourful picture (I know, cos I have it on the downstairs telly)
So, anyone know a TV which does this for sure? I still think the Philips I mentioned above does, but would like it verified before going and buying one.)
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A slightly off the wall solution...
If this is for connecting to a V+ box then do you need a TV? Connecting an LCD monitor with speakers to a V+ box might be all you need and work out a lot cheaper. But this leaves the issue of remote volume control (do monitors offer this?) and the on-timer. The latter could be a timer plug. The same might work on a TV but with V+ (if it is V+) means you do not need a tuner and a monitor might only cost £100.
Okay not what you're after but probably would work. When the monitor got power via the timer plug it should display the incoming image. If the monitor does not have HDMI then it would have to be HDMI to DVI plus sound from phono to 3.5" sound input. If you have access to a DVI/HDMI equipped monitor you could test.
When I saw your other post about timers I realised after a quick search how few TVs offer this.
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Interesting solution! I *think* I've seen monitors with remote control. The power on via timer plug would work. At the moment I can't think of any drawbacks - will have a sniff around tonight and see if it's viable. Thanks!
btw I've recently bought a Dell 24" HD monitor that was more expensive than the TV's I'm looking at (but then it's bigger too!)! I haven't even checked whether it has speakers! But it's mighty impressive...
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errr
the power on by timer might not work. Most modern monitors have to be switched on by pressing the button after power is applied.
why not buy an alarm clock?
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I cannot vouch for modern monitors. But before I posted this I pulled the power cable from my 19" LCD and after a while put it back it. It came back on powered up and with an image displayed. Your mileague may vary as they say.
If smokie has got this new 24" monitor he could try this out quite easily before commiting.
I recently got a new 32" LCD for the lounge and I would bet that would come back in power save mode after losing power.
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"why not buy an alarm clock?" - I wondered how long it would take someone to come up with that. Could've guessed it would be you! :-) This is one of those "keep 'er indoors happy" things...
My big LG comes on in stand by. The Dell comes straight on. Inconclusive!
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I just looked at the spec of some of the Dell 24" LCDs. Nice. Even have S-Video too if needed. But also the equivalent of full HD resolution :-)
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But also the equivalent of full HD resolution :-) >>
It's the graphics card that delivers the resolution - even a full HD television is really only equivalent to around 2MP or so.
I have a Freeview PCI TV card in my system and on my 21in CRT monitor at 1152x864 resolution I can clearly read a newspaper's column text on, for instance, Sky TV's Press Preview programme.
I can't manage this on my main 26in LCD TV unless it's a closeup shot of the text.
Incidentally the TV card, which I bought five years ago, is HD compatible; this was due to the fact it was very popular in Australia where HD was already available in some states.
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Full HD is 1920 x 1080 resolution. If the source and display are capable that is what you get. For a 26 LCD TV the resolution will be 1366x768. For most (i.e. ignoring a computer input or blue-ray disks) there are no full HD sources - Sky HD is not full HD on it's HD channels.
You're are correct in saying a good CRT is currently (and will be for a while ) better than LCD.
No full HD broadcasts in the UK for a little while and then only like to be BBC, ITV and Channel 4.
But this is all hijacking Smokie's thread. He wasn't arguing about HD or not. My comment was related to the fact he would know he could set his Virgin Media V+ box to output at 1080i resolution (upscaled for most channels) if he chose to.
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