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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 20/11/2008 at 19:12
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I have an AMD Athlon XP 3200+ - the AMD CPUs are noted for running at higher temperatures than the Intel equivalent (in most cases).
Try installing Everest Home Edition:
majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
and, from:
Computer>click on +>click on Sensor.
This will (or should) reveal the CPU, motherboard and hard drive temperatures, along with the PSU's Values.
My AMD CPU will go up to 85 degrees C in theory before getting into serious trouble, but I have it set in the Bios to cut off at 70 degrees C for safety; it normally runs at around 57 to 60 degrees C.
On a summer's day it will touch 68 to 69 degrees C, but has not yet gone above that yet even on the CPU fan's lowest setting.
Edited by Stuartli on 03/11/2008 at 23:35
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Screwloose,
It certainly sounds like the CPU is at fault here, but:
If you can spare the time, strip it down to minimum config and see if it's OK.
If it's OK at minimum config keep adding bits until it freezes again. Remove the offending item and try again.. You get the picture.
Alternatively you could spend a few bucks on a new Aflon 64 from fleabay and see if that fixes it.
Kevin...
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Stuart
That little utility is cool; accurate live-data - that's what I needed. Thanks for the link.
Ambient is now 12 o C and the CPU is running around 39 o C [with its fan @ 3500revs] as I've been adopting the Apollo 13 approach and minimising the surge load - it's kept it running for two hours... so far.
PSU voltages all show marginally over nominal; the CPU core voltage is floating between 1.45-1.49. Is that correct? [No target value given?]
Kevin
Thanks for the input.
I may adopt the precautionary approach here and order-up a new chip and replacement RAM to be on the safe side. Time is short and I've got enough grief ahead sorting out the pathetic broadband.
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>>the CPU core voltage is floating between 1.45-1.49>>
In Everest, if you go to Motherboard (next section) and click on CPU, the Physical Info listing provides the Core Voltage figure; it's 1.65V in my Athlon XP's case and the reading from Sensor is 1.66V.
Considering I have a three-year-old little known brand 500w PSU that cost just £20 including delivery from e-Bay, it has served me well and continues to do so.
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Stuart
I think we may be on to something here; the given core voltage is 1.550.
Would I be right in suspecting the on-board voltage controller is cooked?
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I think we may be on to something here; the given core voltage is 1.550.
1.44 to 1.49v sounds about right for that CPU, you said 3.7 gig, I guess you mean an Athlon 64 3700 which is 2.4ghz.
Edit: Perhaps 2.2ghz, try installing CPU-ID www.cpuid.com/
Edited by cheddar on 04/11/2008 at 15:19
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Evert Home Edition provides such information from Motherboard>CPU.
My Athlon XP 3200+ is a 2.2GHz CPU - AMD denotes the 3200+ and similar numbering to allow a comparison with Intel equivalents.
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Evert Home Edition provides such information from Motherboard>CPU.
The CPU-Z utility is very comprehensive, will identify the CPU's requirements and is free!
AMD denotes the 3200+ and similar numbering to allow a comparison with Intel equivalents. >>
I know, very confusing and never really compared with Intel's actualy clock speeds as AMD claimed, just marketing speak really.
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It's actually the core voltage of the CPU itself - very minor variations in power supply shouldn't make much difference as you'd need a very expensive PSU to maintain highly accurate supplies.
By the way, increasing the voltage can be used for overclocking, depending on your components and configuration levels. This will help you understand the relationship (including that of heat):
www.overclock.net/overclock.php?file=articles/over...m
I'm not suggesting you do this, just pointing out the reasons.
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Stuart
Just as an experiment; I changed the BIOS CPU settings from "Auto" to "Overclock 3%." This has upped the GHz to 2266; but doesn't seem to have changed the core voltage at all? Should it?
Just a related thought; the cooling fan on the graphics card [Radeon 9550] is getting erratic and noisy; does the CPU's power supply get shared with the card's chip or fan? Could that fan seizing be dragging it down?
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What is the wattage of your PSU (it will be detailed on its case)? It could be that you need more power (wattage) for your system.
I have the same graphics card (9550) and, IIRC without delving into the case, it should be easy to add a drop of two of light oil in the fan housing after taking the card out; this should cure the noise.
Some graphics cards do have high power demands, but the 9550 specifications merely state at least a 300w supply if a number of other internal components are also in use.
As for overclocking, it's something I've always avoided, preferring to run components in standard form rather than push them to the brink of their tolerances.
Each to his or her own though.
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Just a related thought; the cooling fan on the graphics card [Radeon 9550] is getting erratic and noisy; does the CPU's power supply get shared with the card's chip or fan? Could that fan seizing be dragging it down?
Screwloose, have you though that that could be the source of your originally reported problems, after all voltages seem to be OK and the CPU is allowing over clocking without complaining.
Does the mobo have integrated graphics? If so perhaps enable it through the BIOS (if requ) and remove the graphics card, plug the monitor into the mobo VGA and run on integrated graphics for a while.
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Many thanks for the replies in thread 165... I'm going to plough through the links and ideas on a free evening.
David
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Tried everything but in the end had to backup all personal stuff and use the HP restore function (format and reload to as-new config). PC immediately far faster and explorer functioning OK for several hours.
Then restored my own files from backup, my extra programs (just Windows Washer & Picassa) and put McAfee back on. It went back to seizing up on Explorer within minutes.... particularly when opening folders of images.
I wonder if there are any PC forums I could trust to ask?
Also I'm wondering given the sequence of events above could the size of the files we have (Users file at 7GB and Images file on C drive of 21GB) that are tripping up Explorer as I gather it does a pre-indexing thing for faster searches and this uses resources?
Also I have left the performance tab of Task Manager on while the problem happens. Working now the CPU graph is at 50% but when Explorer faults it goes to 100% and stays there even if you close everything..... until a re-boot when it is normal until the problem happens again.
David
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May I follow M.M.'s example and thank all those who helped me with the above problem in Vol 165.
I eventually got round to trying various suggestions but resorted to "Packard-Bell Smart restore" (or something like that) which sorted the problem, restoring the laptop to "factory default- most documents, photos etc disappeared (as did a load of rubbish!!) but I had saved them all to memory stick first.
Have installed Stuartli's suggested Avast and it seems eassy to use and effective.
Thanks again - some first class advice available on HJ!
Phil
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Mrs P subscribes to a particular online shop. It sends us (me !) e-mails every so often. WHen they do they invariably appear "late" i.e. they are 5 to 10 items down the mail list and not at the top where you expect them to be. The chronological time is right - its only one company's e-mails that do this. Any ideas (idle curiosity nothing else, I delete them anyway :-) )
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Emails are listed in your inbox in order of date/time sent, not recieved, so for example, if shop"A" sent an email on Nov 1st, and it was "floating about in the "Ether" for whatever reason, before you recieved it on the 3rd Nov, any Email that was sent on the 2nd and 3rd and arrived on time would be listed above it.
Billy
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Emails are listed in your inbox in order of date/time sent not recieved so for example if shop"A" sent an email on Nov 1st and it was "floating about in the "Ether" for whatever reason before you recieved it on the 3rd Nov any Email that was sent on the 2nd and 3rd and arrived on time would be listed above it. Billy
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I'm not convinced Outlook works that way, having poked around in the headers of a few messages in my Inbox I'm fairly sure that the 'received' time is the time they were received at 'my' mail server, not the time sent - otherwise messages from different time zones would get in a right mess, unless they were all referenced to UCT.
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PU,
E-mail time stamps are from the sender not receiver. Otherwise, if you turn on your PC at 0900 and receive all your e-mails within a two minute period they would all bear this time stamp, as opposed to PU's 2 or 3 day old messages.
There could be many reasons behind this, the main one being the company e-mail server is set to the wrong time. Yep, as simple as that.
I guess you have your e-mails arriving with the latest on the top of the pile? This would point to my solution above.
What can you do about it? Not alot really, you wont be able to contact the company to inform them of the problem (they probably already know but cant be bothered).
Try getting Mrs PugUgly to change her shopping habits!! I hear Halfords have some good details at present :)
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It depends on how Outlook ( or whatever) is set up; having just checked there are both 'sent' and 'received' fields available for display / sorting in Outlook. Personally I don't use the 'sent' field at all, just the 'recieved' one, which, as I stated, shows the time received at my mail server; not when downloaded to the PC.
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Its BT's web based e-mail account. Its only this particular "shop" that seems to suffer from this feature. They don't sell stuff like this in Halfords - its Figleaves.com
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"It sends me e-mails every so often -its Figleaves.com"
Do tell us more PU!!!
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I never realised how much bras cost until the Mrs. started getting emails from Figleaves! I hadn't noticed this quirk in their email timing ( presumably because as mentioned I sort by 'received' not 'sent'), must check next time they send one.
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>>I never realised how much bras cost until the Mrs. started getting emails from Figleaves!>>
Only because you'd been wearing her cast offs?
...-))
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>>I never realised how much bras cost until the Mrs. started getting emails from Figleaves!>> Only because you'd been wearing her cast offs? ...-))
As earmuffs ....
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The spam facility on my BT/Yahoo broadband facility, in Windows XP, separates out spam and allows me to enter it as such to block senders. As I get about 30-40 such communications a week, I have not paid enough attention and have entered some sources that I actually wanted to keep.
Is there any way I can re-instate them please? In Windows 98, there was a Blocked Senders facility that listed the senders and enabled me to do this but not (as far as I can seee) in XP.
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You block spam from your e-mail pogram, not XP, which is the operating system; Internet Explorer and Outlook Express are installed by XP during its installation or by downloading from Microsoft.
If you go to OE>Tools>Internet Options, you will see a "Block Sender" listing.
When any spam is received and you don't wish to receive any more from the sender, click Block Sender.
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With some ISPs it is easier to manage blocked senders / whitelists using the webmail interface on the ISP's site rather than doing it locally, maybe worth checking.
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Use GoogleMail (Gmail) to avoid spam.
Gmail allow all users to use the Gmail POP & SMTP servers, thus bypassing your ISP's mail servers completely.
You can, of course use Gmail as a web based mail system too, (at the same time) - just set Gmail to keep all mail in your various Gmail folders.
Gmail has probably the best spam filters in the business, so you will find virtually no spam arriving in your PC's email client's in-box.
There are, as I write this, no fewer than 102 spam messages in my Gmail junk mail box (& that's in no more than three or four days.) I am quite happy to post my Gmail address on ANY forum as I know how good the spam filters are on Gmail - none of said spam has made it into Thunderbird!
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Use GoogleMail (Gmail) to avoid spam.
Shame it doesn't work the other way. Most of the spammers that have descended on the site just recently were using gmail accounts to register a BR username with.
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For all of you who just hate paying for security software, may I recommend the FREE security suite from COMODO. It is truly excellent and has pretty well everything for which you would pay Norton and their ilk, serious money!.
The download link is here:- www.personalfirewall.comodo.com/download_cis.html
This is a firewall, anti-spam, anti-virus and HIPS product all in one.
I shall be using it when my current paid-for firewall and anti-virus subscriptions run out and I'm FUSSY about internet security, believe me!
There is an option to pay them for actual live support & virus removal, but, frankly you won't need it!
The installation asks if you want to install Yahoo search toolbar - this will generate income for COMODO, but it is not essential at all and, I think, should be declined.
The support forums are here:- forums.comodo.com/index.php
The main website is here:- www.comodo.com/products/free_products.html
I have used the full URLs, rather than TinyURL, so you can see just where these links take you!
Do try it.
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My brain is SPAM!
It does not have anti-spam. DUH!
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I've been using Comodo Firewall Pro (freeware) for several months after discovering it was superior to ZoneAlarm (tip in an earlier CRQ) and have since added Comodo Registry Cleaner as a companion to CCleaner.
Both are first class freeware products.
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There is an option to pay them for actual live support & virus removal but frankly you won't need it! The installation asks if you want to install Yahoo search toolbar - this will generate income for COMODO but it is not essential at all and I think should be declined.
This I believe is known as the tragedy of the commons.
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OK, I'll run thissun past all you fine experts: sometimes when I click on a link I know is good, nothing happens. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it--some links I can access, some I can't. Any ideas? (the mouse is fine, by the way)
Thanks from the clanging Las Vegas Strip.
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Try a different browser or check your security settings aren't set too high.
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some spyware utilities use "Black and White" lists, (spybot for e.g has a blacklist) if you cant access some sites, check that it's not "ticked" in a Utilities blacklist, if it is, and you trust the site, uncheck it then you may gain access.
Billy
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Which browser do you use?
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Can anyone explain, please, how to copy DVDs using a PC? Do I need to download a bit of software?
Edited by drbe on 09/11/2008 at 07:19
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You'll need a DVD writer, and enough free disk space (say up to 10Gb).
Commercial (copyrighted) DVDs are often protected, so that they cannot be copied (or, at least, they may look like they've copied, but the output will not work properly in a DVD player). There may be ways round this, but not for discussion here.
Commercial DVDs also often contain more data than your average DVD, so a straightforward copy would not fit onto a regular size DVD.
Amongst others, I use a product called DVDSHRINK, available here. www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_ripp...m. This software is genuinely free, and you can specify (although it will automatically suggest) by how much to compress the size to enable it to fit on a regular DVD. You can also choose whether to copy the whole DVD or just the "main movie", or whatever. "Re-authoring", in particular compressing, can take quite some time (hours) depending mainly on your PC spec - plenty of memory and a faster processor will get the job done more quickly. And of course compressing will lose some quality, but usually this is not really that noticeable.
That's your starter for 10 - come back if you have more questions - but no discussion of illegal copying of copyrighted material please!
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>> That's your starter for 10 -
Smokie, I award you the 10 points, thank you for your prompt reply.
no discussion of illegal copying of copyrighted material please!
I wouldn't dream of it!
Are ripping, burning and copying all one and the same thing?
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Strictly, ripping is the process of removing data from the DVD/CD. Burning is the process of writing to the new media. Copying covers both. (With sufficient disk space you can, of course, simply keep the data on your hard disk and never burn)
btw if you are copying for use in a regular DVD player then you need to be sure to write to a format (DVD+ or DVD-) which your DVD player supports (more recent ones may well support both). And I have found that it's worth spending a bit extra on branded quality media - cheap ones often ends up as coasters (i.e. unreadable in a regular player - but usually still readable in the drive they were written in)
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I use DVDFab Platinum - you can try it free:
www.softpedia.com/get/CD-DVD-Tools/CD-DVD-Rip-Othe...l
It really is as simple as stated, although I use Nero6 Reloaded most of the time.
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I use Nero6 Reloaded most of the time.
Stuartli, is that Freeware?
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Nero isn't free but you can buy an OEM copy for under a fiver. Just type "Nero" into Google shopping.
JH
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Freeware CD/DVD burners:
List for Windows:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_optical_disc_authori...2
A good alternative to Nero, and free for home use:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashampoo_Burning_Studio
www.download.com/Ashampoo-Burning-Studio-Free/3000...l
Ashampoo Burning Studio Free 6.75
The new Ashampoo Burning Studio Free keeps all the advantages of its predecessor and adds multi-disc file backup, an integrated audio CD ripper and further improved support for the exciting new Blu-ray format with capacities of up to 25 gigabytes per layer.
Many users are tired of over-complicated CD burning applications that are getting harder and harder to use. Sometimes you can waste most of your time just trying to find a function. Ashampoo Burning Studio focuses on what you want: To burn discs quickly, easily, with maximum quality and minimum hassle. It includes everything you need to be able to do that. And it excludes everything that could get in the way.
Ashampoo Burning Studio 6 is still totally simple and intuitive to use. We listened to your feedback, added the new functions you asked for and made a long list of corrections and changes. The result is a better, more powerful and more efficient CD, DVD and Blu-ray burning application than ever before.
Features:
? Multi-disc file backup and restore on CDs, DVDs and Blu-ray discs
? Create compressed backup archives with powerful password protection
? Split archives automatically across multiple CDs, DVDs or Blu-ray discs
? Restore archive contents to their original locations
? Integrated Audio CD ripper � store your audio tracks as MP3, WMA or WAV files
? New option for setting the number of copies you want to burn (available for all disc formats)
? Discs can now be verified immediately without being ejected first (if the drive supports this feature)
? Numerous other small improvements that make the program easier to use and more effective
? Burn files and folders on data CDs/DVDs/Blu-ray discs
? Burn Audio CDs from WAV, MP3, FLAC, WMA and Ogg Vorbis files
? Burn MP3-CDs from your MP3 files
? Burn Video DVD, Video CD (VCD) or Super Video CD (S-VCD)
? Create and burn CD/DVD/Blu-ray disc images
? Burn speed and other options can all be set automatically
? Make copies from audio, video or data discs easily
? Interactive troubleshooting assistant for solving hardware and media problems
? Save project files so that you can burn the same discs again later
? Erase CD-RWs / DVD+RWs / DVD-RWs/ DVD-RAM/ BD-REs
? Integrated support for over 1,700 CD, DVD and Blu-ray burners
Homepage - www.ashampoo.com
Size: 5.79 MB
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>>Stuartli, is that Freeware?>>
No, it's not freeware. When I bought my first CD rewriter some six or seven years ago it came with Nero5.5 in OEM form.
I consistently upgraded it free on the Ahead website and, eventually, moved up to Nero6 Reloaded. Even though Nero is now on Version 9, Ahead still updates earlier versions, although I doubt if Nero6 will be again (last version is 6.6.1.15c). Updates are to cure any bugs and update the rewriters supported.
Even though I've now had a DVD rewriter for a couple of years, Nero6 Reloaded still does all that I require, although as mentioned earlier I also use DVDFab Platinum if required.
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Latest, just released version of CDBurnerXP (freeware):
www.cdburnerxp.se/
or
www.majorgeeks.com/CDBurnerXP_d4242.html
Edited by Stuartli on 09/11/2008 at 16:38
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I would like to be able to scan and complete the occasional forms. Can anyone recommend suitable software for this, please?
Clk Sec
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Clk
not sure what you mean. If you have a scanner it probably came with scanning software and often OCR software too. Most photo editing software will scan. Vuescan is really good and works with almost any scanner.
But "complete forms"? Foxit reader allows you to type into a PDF but I don't think that's what you mean?
Is that any help?
JH
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Thanks JH.
I?m half way there now that my Fine Reader 6 Sprint has been activated - didn?t even know that I had this - and I?ve successfully scanned various documents.
Now, what I would like to be able to do is to scan a document in such a way as to be able to make a few neat amendments without having to resort to using my ballpoint pen.
Looks like I might have to buy some sort of add-on module?
Clk Sec
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Well if you scan the form to JPG I suppose you could then use pretty much any image editing software to add / change text, although it would probably be a pain getting just the right font.
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My vista Internet Explorer occaisionally crashes when I am on this site. This has only happened since the site problem last weekend. I can only recover by alt, ctrl, delete, and using end task in task manager. Any ideas? Keep it simple please.
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Sidestep the problem and download another browser.
Apple Safari or Firefox both work well for me with this site - and no pop-ups.
I use Safari on my Vista laptop all the time.
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Sidestep the problem and download another browser.
Thanks ifithelps, I will take your advice as a last resort. I seem to have solved the problem by working through the IE troubleshooter and disabling add-ons. I must have picked up one that doesnt like HJ!
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...as a last resort...
Old Navy,
Doesn't have to be because you would still have Explorer and the ability to switch between the two at any time.
Safari probably lacks some of the bells and whistles of Explorer, but for the likes of thee and me who just want to do a bit of surfing and reply to the odd post, it's just the job.
Edited by ifithelps on 11/11/2008 at 18:48
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If you install Firefox 3.0.3, you can still switch between it and IE using the IEView add-on from:
ieview.mozdev.org/
The bottom right hand corner of the screen contains a Mozilla icon which facilities the switching as required.
I wouldn't mind betting you quite rapidly come to prefer Firefox...:-)
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When I wish to send a web page as an email, I normally click on - file - send - page by email.
What happens next is that the MS Avosti(?) page comes up, how can I ensure that my normal mail provider - Yahoo - appears. One major disadvantage of MS is it doesn't have a list of my contacts.
I realise that I can copy and paste a link, but I just want to send the page using Yahoo.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Is Yahoo configured as the Default e-mail program?
It should be listed from Start>Set Program Access and Defaults>Custom.
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Is Yahoo configured as the Default e-mail program?
It says 'use my current email program', which is not Outlook Express.
How do I get it to show which is my current program?
Thanks for the quick response.
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It sounds to me like you are using a 'webmail' client (Yahoo Mail) rather than a client installed on your PC (such as Outlook).
Does this work?
answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=2008010221011...X
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Thanks for those replies.
I Googled the question (something should have done in the first place, I suppose) and followed the instructions there and it worked!
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If you want to be sure of sending a copy of a webpage (or other document) exactly as seen (and allow someone to print it) then I'd print/render it to a local file. If you have something like Office 2003 installed then you probably have the Office Document Writer printer installed. (If not then I can advise too.... another followup post).
Basically all web browsers take the web pages' HTML and render it on screen so you see the images, text (including mark-ups like bold, italic, fount sizes etc.) taking into account the original content and screen resolution. Sending this can be a problem.
So if you print to an MS Office Document Writer "virtual" printer you will get a document that you can see on screen and print yourself but also print. This can easily be converted to PDF etc or you could even install an alternative (FREE) virtual printer driver to produce PDFs directly. A quick search on here will find a reference to free PDF writers.
I hope this makes sense ;-) Or I'll have to write a simpler explanation.
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Or I'll have to write a simpler explanation.
>>
Err, umm, (sucks thumb) responds brightly "I say, do you think you could possibly write a simpler explanation"
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If you want to save a webpage to a file to view exactly as you would if printed (useful also for saving confirmation type web pages to a file for later reference - e.g. buying something online) then you can print to a file.
With Microsoft Office an option was to have the Microsoft Office Document Writer printer installed. You print to this like a normal printer but it saves the print to disk as a file which can later be viewed and printed. Due to the nature of web pages it's often necessary to select Landscape format for the paper to get the full width in.
So if I wanted to print this page to a file from Internet Explorer, I'd go to File -> Print and select the Microsoft Office Document Writer. Changes preferences to Landscape and click Print. It then asks you for a filename.
If you don't have Office or want to create a PDF then a free alternative is CutePDF which installs a PDF printer. Printing to this will result in a saved PDF for the webpage you're viewing.
These files can then be emailed as attachments.
Hope that clarifies it a little.
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If you are interested diarise next Tuesday.
Checkpoint, the makers of Zone Alarm are offering the PRO version free. The offer only lasts for 24 hours and apparently comes with a 12 month licence worth around $40 USD
Story here:-
www.wilderssecurity.com/showthread.php?t=225279
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I used the free verrsion of ZoneAlarm for many years until I discovered that Comodo Firewall Pro (freeware) is much superior.
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My son has at last got himself fixed-up with a broadband ISP but has not yet installed an anti-virus programme.
His preference is to go for a free programme but....(1)....How come they are free when things like Norton do not come cheap?....(2)....If the free ones are reliable, which one would you recommend?....and....(3)....Is there a free programme which provides Internet Security to make things safe for his young children?
TIA
Edited by Pugugly on 15/11/2008 at 19:44
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2)....If the free ones are reliable, which one would you recommend?....
Free for home use, all products highly regarded:
www.comodo.com/
(3) Internet Security to make things safe for his young children?
www.ceop.gov.uk/
www.getsafeonline.org/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=1044
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My favourite anti virus is Avast (free version) www.avast.com/
Argument for free versions is that their makers prefer everyone to have protection rather than none. I have a sneaky feeling that they like the extra publicity for their commercial paid-for products and it can act as a spoiler to the likes of Symantec and McAfee.
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Anti-virus: (In MY order of preference)
Avira PE Free
Avast!, Free
AVG, Free.
Firewalls:-
Online Armor, Free (includes HIPS). Also will let you run your internet facing programs with reduced rights, making it difficult for malware to install)
Comodo Firewall, with Defence + activated.
PC Tools, Free (Use their HIPS - Threatfire, free, with it)
Any router with firewall capability!
Suites:- Comodo Internet Security. (AV element is still not up with the best - but it will be!)
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As I'v e mentioned before, I'm an Avast! fan - it does what it says on the tin and also has the bonus of automatically updating itself, advising both in written and spoken form that it has done so.
The firewall choice is Comodo Firewall Pro (freeware, despite the wording).
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I also suggest a regular scan with a good anti-spyware tool. I find some of the online ones more comprehensive from experience. Trend Micro for example. I have no connections to them but their online (free) tool once found problems that locally installed tools did not.
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Many thanks for those very helpful suggestions. Number One son will be most grateful..Ah, So. :o) (You have to be quite an old reader to remember references to Number One son!).
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Further to the above....a very helpful article has in the meantime appeared here:
www.moneysavingexpert.com:80/shopping/free-anti-vi...e
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We've got a holiday flat in Austria. It would be useful to keep a printer on site to plug in to the laptop when we are there. It's not going to be used for perhaps a couple of months at a time. I'm thinking that an inkjet will be very expensive in these circumstances, as it will need frequent nozzle cleaning - not only that, but the temperatures will be quite low when we aren't there and the ink may not be as fluid as one would like. I'm thinking that a small laser printer would be ideal in these circumstances, as there is no fluid involved to clag up. Any thoughts on my logic here?
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Low end laser printers can be quite cheap these days but might be more costly to run. Do you need only B&W because colour lasers are still pricey compared to inkjets.
I would be surprised if temperature for ink jets is a problem because people must buy them that live there.
If you're after a print for infrequent use then one that has the ink cartridge and print head combined might make more sense. More expensive to run but if the head did become totally clogged then you can replace it.
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I would be surprised if temperature for ink jets is a problem because people must buy them that live there.
True, but don't forget the place will be unoccupied, and therefore unheated, for extended periods.
I'm not looking at huge print volumes, but when I need to print, I will need to print! A good example is boarding passes following online check-in for visitors' flights. Also walking maps, perhaps directions to places, opening hours etc.
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If doing maps do you need colour?
I think your logic for wanting a laser because it's not used for long periods is fairly sound.
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If doing maps do you need colour? A colour laser will be more expensive to run.
I think your logic for wanting a laser because it's not used for long periods is fairly sound. Just don't expect to be able print decent photos on a laserprinter ;-)
For less than £140 you can get a HP LaserJet CP1215 for example and some Samsung's for less than that. I cannot vouch for how good that example is or how much it will cost to run in terms of toner, drums, etc.
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My theory is inkjets clog more readily in dry, centrally heated conditions because the water/spirit in the ink is more inclined to evaporate.
Therefore, your cool, unheated Austrian flat would be an ideal place to leave a little-used printer.
I base my theory on work and home.
My cheapo HP is little used and lives in my draughty kitchen which is permanently chilly because it's big, high-ceilinged and gets no sun.
That printer has never clogged.
The printers in my warm, almost stuffy, office do clog.
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I have an Epson R300 and, to avoid any problems with clogging up or unnecessary cleaning routines whenever it would be switched on for use, I leave it switched on permanently.
Its location is in a south facing room which can get very hot in summer and (if the heating is not left on all day) quite cold at times in winter, yet it always prints perfectly every time.
What's more I use low cost compatible inks; a pack of the six cartridges required is just over £4 from www.diskdepot.co.uk (I buy several packs at a time to make the most of the delivery charge).
If I bought genuine Epson inkjet cartridges it would be somewhere in the region of £70...:-)
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Colour Laser printing can now cheaper than using an inkjet, according to a colleague [who used to earn his living doing printing]. He recommends a Dell CP1515N one at £145 and recently showed me an impressive portrait sample. (Is it a re-badged HP?)
Here is the link:
www.dabs.com/ProductView.aspx?Quicklinx=5393&Categ...1
The cartridges average £41 each but they last for many times more pages than inkjet ones do and inkjet clogging will not be a problem.
He says, "It covers the most amazing range of paper sizes - over 20 plus 20 custom sizes".
I just wish I had known before my fairly recent £105 inkjet purchase.
Edited by buzbee on 17/11/2008 at 21:56
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>>(Is it a re-badged HP?) >>
Dell doesn't actually manufacture printers or, to the best of my knowledge, laptops - it rebadges specialist manufacturers' products under its own name (a common trait in the world of IT as no manufacturer can produce everything it sells).
Some of its printers were rebadged Lexmarks - not the best choice owing to the cost of ink cartridge replacements and the fact that Dell, IIRC, charged even more for them than the standard price...:-(
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If doing maps do you need colour?
No, colour is not essential, I have other maps, it is just sometimes useful to be able to print a route.
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"colour not essential"
In that case a simple laser one is what you need. I use an HP 1010 which was £99 -- about 2 years ago. Not sure what the current version number will be but something like that.
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For a little more you could get a colour HP printer. Not sure about consumable costs.
You've got me wanting one too... I get free prints at work but work from home a lot and the inkjet is a little slow.
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I got a free one for returning to BT from another provider. Ideal for laptop use - same one in Tesco was 49.99 - so a bargain.
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I have a similar situation with a printer in the French house. Currently running an HP 930C bought at a carboot sale (in the UK) for £3.50, complete with cartridges. Never had a problem with cartridges, but the '45' black ink has been around for years and easily responds to standing in a saucer of warm water as and when required. It can also be refilled easily with whatever colour ink you have available.
The older the printer, the better. They are less intelligent in their self assesssment of the ink postion and less likely to prevent you printing if it 'thinks' the ink is running out.
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Thanks for the replies, I have an old HP 920c which I'll try initially, otherwise I've got access to a Laserjet 1020 (and I've also got one of the BT freebie HP4260s!). Never thought of the fact that being cooler might even help.
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Advantage of the HP Deskjet 920C are the heads are in the cartridges so the entire thing can be replaced if needed - they are just expensive. That's why I got rid of my 920c a few years back and got a Canon Pixma IP5000. But for your needs this might be better.
Sounds like you have a few options! The Laserjet 1020 is likely to be fine otherwise.
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