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I Have a Question - Volume 251 [Read Only] - Pugugly

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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 02/10/2008 at 19:57

Carbon (?) footprint - L'escargot
I don't understand what this "carbon footprint" thing is all about. I thought the kerfuffle was about how much carbon dioxide we produced. Is "carbon footprint" yet another example of people using a meaningless phrase? And who coined the phrase anyway? Please bring me up to speed (?) on this latest bulldung bingo terminology.

Edited by L'escargot on 28/09/2008 at 08:57

Carbon (?) footprint - ifithelps
Not a phrase I use myself, but those that do take it to mean a person's overall impact on the environment.

"Carbon" now has a catch-all meaning for using finite resources, and "footprint" is a measure of size/quantity.

Thus if I drive my car many miles my carbon footprint from motoring is deemed to be bigger/more harmful than if I only drive a few miles.

Arguments then follow about 10 miles in a Range Rover being more harmful than a hundred in a supermini.

But I'm sure you knew most of this already, L'escargot.

Edited by ifithelps on 28/09/2008 at 10:01

High tension lines over roads - johnny
What't the purpose of the scaffolding supported netting slung under a ETL line where it crosses a road. The netting doesn't look strong enough to hold anything - a span of cable would be pretty heavy if it came unhitched.
High tension lines over roads - AlastairW
The net is only there during maintenance work, and is there to catch dropped tools, etc, which may cause an injury to passing motorists.
High tension lines over roads - Nsar
Are you sure, they look pretty open mesh to me?
High tension lines over roads - Altea Ego
Its used int he HT wire replacement process. Its used over roads, railways, rivers.....
High tension lines over roads - johnny
Yes, that figures, but it just doesn't look strong enough to hold anything of significant weight.
High tension lines over roads - Altea Ego
check out the scaffolding either side, thats pretty heavily engineered.
High tension lines over roads - henry k
Its used int he HT wire replacement process. Its used over roads railways rivers.....

I agree with AE . Very recently there was extensive work close to the A3 /M3 interchange. ( AE & HJ and my area)

For a "short" while the shiny cables looked very strange compared with the usual dirty ones.

Edited by henry k on 29/09/2008 at 00:30

the real cost of cheap t-bags? - billy25
My G/F is a real Teabelly (not the one who posts on here!)and has the kettle on every hour without fail.
Although she only ever boils the minimum amount of water (0.5lt)(max fill 1.7lt) it still takes about 2mins from switch-on to switch-off, and the kettle is rated at 2200w.
Last night "i was very very bored" and tried to give my brain a bit of a work out trying to fathom how much electricity it took per 80 box of t-bags, assuming she made just one cup for herself each time, and the cup is half-pint.
I got so far in my calcs then confused both myself (and her)and now it's doing my head in!!
80t-bags = 80x0.5lt= 40 pints water boiled
of which she only ever uses 20pints (i/2pint per cup)
which straight away shows 50% waste!
Now this is where i lost my plot! is the kettles 2200w calculated on boiling a full kettle, or minimum amount, or if it was on for a full hour (eg kwh = 1 unit so kettle would use 2.2 kw's???)
As i'm once again confusing myself, over to the boffins! and while you work it out, i'll put "t" kettle on!

Cheers
Billy
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - Mapmaker
2.2 kws used every hour to heat water.

4.186 joules to raise 1ml of water by 1 degree C.

80 x 0.5 l = 40 litres (not pints...) which have to be raised by (say) 85 degrees C, ignoring any heat lost into the kettle.

So 4.816 x 85 x 40000 = 16,377 kJ.

At 2.2 KW, this would take 7,444 seconds = 2.06 hours to heat up - which about equates to your 2 minutes per boiling, giving a good sense check.

So 4.5kWh - or about, what?, 40p - you spend a penny per two cups of tea...
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - Dipstick
"you spend a penny per two cups of tea..."

Could have told you that without doing any sums.
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - Altea Ego
So my 800w microwave can boil a cup of water in 1.30 seconds. should I dump the kettle?
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - Mapmaker
>>microwave

You must be a doll!
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - billy25
>>now it's doing my head in!!<<

Told you it was!!!
of course i'ts 40litres not pints ;-) no wonder my sums weren't working out!

>>So 4.5kWh - or about, what?, 40p <<
very close! 4.5 x 10.473per unit tis approx £0.47p ;-)

Thanks for doing "my homework" for me! - now i can sleep easy and not panic everytime i hear "click"

Billy - time for a brew! ;-)
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - FotheringtonThomas
10.473per unit


Wow. That's very cheap!!
the real cost of cheap t-bags? - L'escargot
Buy an Electricity Cost and Usage Calculator or a Mains Power and Energy Monitor from Maplin. I've got the latter and it's brilliant. tinyurl.com/3wd9d3

Edited by L'escargot on 29/09/2008 at 18:36

the real cost of cheap t-bags? - Stuartli
...or if eligible, sign up for StayWarm and not worry too unduly about dual fuel usage for a modest monthly direct debit sum (mine's £74 a month).
Bank bail-outs - tyro
In recent weeks we have seen a few instances of governments stepping in to rescue banking institutions that get into trouble.

The question that I am curious about is "In the event that the governments in question had not intervened and just let the banks go to the wall, what proportion of their savings and deposits would ordinary customers have got back?"

(I presume that the answer would be different for different banks?)
Bank bail-outs - Mapmaker
On the assumption that the bank is insolvent, a maximum of £35,000. Under the compensation scheme.
Bank bail-outs - L'escargot
On the assumption that the bank is insolvent a maximum of £35 000. Under the
compensation scheme.


Maximum of £31,700 = 100% of the first £2000 + 90% of the next £33,000.

tinyurl.com/4qye2q
tinyurl.com/4sqy95

Edited by L'escargot on 30/09/2008 at 05:19

Bank bail-outs - Mapmaker
Mapmaker>> >> On the assumption that the bank is insolvent a maximum of £35 000. Under

Escargot>> Maximum of £31 700 = 100% of the first £2000 + 90% of the next £33 000.
tinyurl.com/4qye2q



Sorry, Escargot. You are living in the past and your links are outdated ;). Since 1 October 2007 100% of the first £35,000 is protected.


Bank bail-outs - L'escargot
Sorry Escargot. You are living in the past and your links are outdated ........


Us snails are renowned for being slow. :-(
Bank bail-outs - ifithelps
We are told the banks lent more in mortgages than their deposits.

Common sense suggests that if all mortgages are repaid, there should be enough left to refund the depositors.

However, repaying the mortgages means effectively evicting many home owners because a lot of mortgage holders, me included, could only repay the mortgage immediately by selling the house.


Bank bail-outs - PhilW
Max of £35,000 I think. Gov talked about raising it to £50,000 but hasn't yet.
Hence the need to "spread your money between various institutions" if you have more than £35,000 - but be careful that that banks are registered separatel. eg If you have £35,000 in Halifax and £35,000 in Bank of Scotland you are only covered for £35,000 'cos they are one and the same.
Is that what you were asking about?
Phil
P.S. Not a problem I have!!!
Bank bail-outs - JH
for a small fee from that bank I would be willing not to put my savings into one of their accounts.

You might infer that I've managed to pick a number of losers. Well actually, ALL of them so far! Fortunately with no financial harm done!

Ah. The senate have just voted down the rescue package and the Dow has gone into free fall. Oops.

JH

Edited by JH on 29/09/2008 at 20:42

Bank bail-outs - Pugugly
www.moneysavingexpert.com/savings/safe-savings

All you'll ever need to know about it - including which banks are linked to which one, not exactly as straightforward as it may seem.
Bank bail-outs - tyro
Thanks all. But while my question has been sort of answered, what I really wanted an answer to was the "What if . . ." question.

Suppose the government had done nothing about the Northern Rock, or the US Federal Government had done nothing about Fannie Mae & Freddie Mac - what would actually have happened?

The reason I ask is that if I put my money into unit trusts, I know that the value can go up as well as down, and I can potentially lose everything, and the same is broadly true of property. But if I stick it in the bank, it seems that the government will not allow the value to go down. How much would people actually have lost if, for example, the government had done nothing about the Northern Rock or the Bradford and Bingley?
Bank bail-outs - Pugugly
Everything over the initial 35k. So if I had one the Euro Lottery on 100,000,000 I'd lose 99,999,965 quid - at which point I'd be rather cross - but I suppose having someone put that sort of money on deposit with a failing bank might make a difference !
Bank bail-outs - hxj

No wonder your SWMBO looks after the money ...... carefully
Bank bail-outs - hxj

Not sure about the others but Bradford & Bingley figures are sort of available:

1. B&B had £50 billion in loans outstanding;

2. The retail business had deposits of £20 billion;

3. Therefore other investors (shareholders, bond holders and other loans) totalled £30 billion;

Of the £20 billion retail deposits about £15 billion were covered by the compensation scheme.

So if the bank had gone bust, then losses would only arise if the bad debts exceeded the profts made on the good loans.

However virtually all of that loss would have fallen on other financial service businesses, further weakening the bnking sector, potentially leading to further weaknesses and further failures
Bank bail-outs - crunch_time
None of which has stopped B&B advertising on TV today - seen several times.


Maths formula required - BobbyG
If I travel at 30mph , I arrive 1 hour earlier than I need to.
If I travel at 20 mph , I arrive one hour later than I need to.
What speed should I travel at (all assuming averages)

By a process of elimination I have worked out the distance to be 120 (thus 4 hours and 6 hours respectively) and thus the speed required to be 24mph to do it in 5 hours.

But how do I transfer that into formulae or "show your working" as they used to say???

Edited by BobbyG on 29/09/2008 at 20:50

Maths formaula required - Pugugly
My guestimate (before reading the final result) was 25mph !
Maths formula required - jbif
But how do I transfer that into formulae or "show your working" as they used to say???


Assume distance = d
Assume time taken at ideal speed = t hours
1. At 30mph, time taken = t-1; distance travelled = 30t-30 = d
2. At 20mph, time taken = t+1; distance travelled = 20t+20 = d

Equating 1 and 2 gives
30t-30 = 20t +20; solving for t gives
10t = 50; t=5

So distance d = 30x5 - 30 = 120 miles
[check, same answer if you use d = 20x5 + 20 = 120 ]

So 120 miles travelled in 5 hours = 120/5 = 24 mph.

Maths formula required - SpamCan61 {P}
x=distance to destination
y = desired time of arrival in hours

speed = distance divided by time

30 = x divided by ( y-1)

so 30y - 30= x

20 = x divided by ( y+1)

so 20y + 20 = x

so 30y - 30 = 20y +20

so 10y = 50

so y = 5 hours

so 30y-30 = x

so 150 -30 = x

x = 120 miles

darn! beaten to it by 1 minute!

Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 29/09/2008 at 21:05

Maths formula required - Pugugly
You lot should be on Countdown.
Maths formula required - ifithelps
If they don't ask too much money, there could be every chance.
Maths formula required - SpamCan61 {P}
If they don't ask too much money there could be every chance.

Only if I get access to Carol's wardrobe ;-x
Maths formula required - BobbyG
Cheers for that folks, I had myself got half waythrough that formula then lost my way.
Much appreciated, I can sleep tonight now!
Maths formula required - Nsar
Alright then egg-heads, here's a real life scenario that has been doing my head in for too long.

I have two neighbours, one either side. We live along a rough farm track that is a dead end, +/- half a mile long. The houses are spaced evenly in the last half of this track, ie house number 1 is quarter of a mile from the metalled road , we're in the middle and the other neighbour is at the dead end, half a mile from tarmac.

Neighbour at the dead end has two cars, we have three and neighbour nearest the road has three (each car having its own driver) and broadly each driver makes the same number of journeys along the track to get to the road each day.

What is the fairest way of dividing the cost of repairs to the track?

Maths formula required - hxj

Forget the maths - 1/3 each is the only common sense approach
Maths formula required - jbif
What is the fairest way of dividing the cost of repairs to the track?


Assume your track is 12 units of length.
It' use is therefore split 12:9:6.
The guy with 12 units [at the dead end] uses 2 cars over it = 12 x 2 = 24 car_units.
You in the middle use 3 cars over your bit of track = 9 x 3 = 27 car_units.
The guy nearest the road uses 3 cars over his bit of track = 6 x 3 = 18 car_units.

So you split the cost in the ratio 24:27:18

In other words, if the quote is £6900, you split it
£2400 guy at furthest end.
£2700 piggy in the middle
£1800 guy nearest the road.

:-) If you don't want to be the mug or piggy in the middle, follow hxj's advice and save yourself some money!

Maths formula required - cheddar
To enhance jbif's excellent approach further you could take the Livingstone approach and build in the various cars CO2 emissions ... ... ...
Maths formula required - Number_Cruncher
It depends upon your definition of fair.

You could calculate, for each section of road, and each user;

L * n / N

where L is the length of that section
n is the number of cars owned by each user
and N is the total number of cars *which use that section of road*

Summing the values for each user, you would get 3 numbers, that of themselves mean nothing, but together represent the ratio of contributions.

From the info given, using the method I've described gives you

User 1 - 19%
Nsar - 34%
User 3 - 47%

For example, if I were user 1, and you presented me with jbif's calcs, I would protest that I use half the length of road, and have 3/8 of the number of uses of that stretch, so, it's unfair that I have to pay more than 1/4 of the total bill, when 3/16 more closely reflects my usage.

Edited by Number_Cruncher on 30/09/2008 at 00:48

Maths formula required - cheddar
The guy nearest the road may suggest that he only uses 1/3rd of the length of the track and should only pay 1/3rd of the cost of the 1/3 he uses, i.e. 1/9th so extrapolating that:

guy at furthest end - 11/18th
piggy in the middle - 5/18th
guy nearest the road - 2/18th (1/9th)

Maths formula required - Number_Cruncher
>>The guy nearest the road may suggest that he only uses 1/3rd of the length of the track

The houses aren't spaced like that.

Maths formula required - cheddar
OK, it was the principal I was establishing, based on the spacing given by the OP the guy nearest the road may suggest that he only uses half of the length of the track and should only pay 1/3rd of the cost of the half he uses, i.e. 1/6th so extrapolating that:

guy at furthest end - 13/24th
piggy in the middle - 7/24th
guy nearest the road - 4/24th (1/6th)

Edited by cheddar on 30/09/2008 at 01:36

Maths formula required - L'escargot
Considering travel in one direction per day .........

The first neighbour has 3 cars each travelling 0.25 miles = 0.75 miles
Nsar has 3 cars each travelling 0.375 miles = 1.125 miles
The dead end neighbour has 2 cars each travelling 0.5 miles = 1.0 miles

Total distance travelled = 2.875 miles

First neighbour pays 0.75/2.875 = 26%
Nsar pays 1.125/2.875 = 39%
Dead end neighbour pays 1/2.875 = 35%

However, since all proportions are approximately a third, the easiest solution is for each person to pay a third.

Edited by L'escargot on 30/09/2008 at 05:54

Maths formula required - cheddar
However since all proportions are approximately a third the easiest solution is for each person to pay a third.


The problem with that is that the guy at the end uses all of the lane, the guy in the middle uses 3/4 of the lane and the guy nearest the road only half the lane.

Also the number of cars is kind of irrelevant because it does not account for how much the cars are used or for trades people, visitors, deliveries etc.

My formula above accounts for the fact that:

The guy at the end should pay for all of 1/4 (of the lane) + half of 1/4 (of the lane) + 1/3 of a half (of the lane).
The guy in the middle should pay for half of 1/4 (of the lane) + 1/3 of a half (of the lane).
The guy nearest the road 1/3 of a half (of the lane).

Hence:

Guy at furthest end - 13/24th or 54%
Guy in the middle - 7/24th or 29%
Guy nearest the road - 4/24th or 17%

Edited by cheddar on 30/09/2008 at 10:38

Maths formula required - daveyjp
Try sorting our service charges for multioccupancy buildings! "I'm on the ground floor so don't use the lift, therefore I'm not paying for the maintenance of it" is a common scenario.

I also live in a shared cul de sac with unadopted road. 9 houses are responsible for one ninth of the cost of any repairs. Nice and easy that way.
Maths formula required - L'escargot
>> However since all proportions are approximately a third the easiest solution is for each
person to pay a third.
>>
The problem with that is that the guy at the end uses all of the
lane the guy in the middle uses 3/4 of the lane and the guy nearest
the road only half the lane.


You'll see that I took into account what length of the lane each household uses, and how many cars travel along it.
Maths formula required - Number_Cruncher
Perhaps a better way to consider the problem is as 3 seperate lanes. (This is just a paraphrasing of the possible split posted by Cheddar)

Part 1 - from the road to the 1st house, an even 3 way split between all users

Part 2 - from 1st house to Nsar's, an even 2 way split between Nsar and the end house

Part 3 - beyond Nsar's house, is totally the responsibility of the end house


Within fair usage limits, the drive is a facility, and splitting the costs further to accomodate whether someone has 2 or 3 cars on the day when the drive is laid isn't too helpful. If, however, Nsar began to operate haulage company with dozens of trucks from the land by his house, then that simplistic view might need to change!

It really depends upon how you, and the other users of the road/lane/drive define fair.

Maths formula required - ifithelps
Campaign to get the road adopted.
Maths formula required - jbif
I got it wrong. [and L'escargot too, as he had the same figures as I had, but presented in %]. Number Cruncher has the right answer.

I think an easy way to think about the problem is to start from the furthest end.

Divide the track in to three sections A:B:C costing £ X:Y:Z

Part A: Person 1 uses track A all by himself, irrespective of the number of cars he has, and so he pays £X for it.

Part B: Persons 1 and 2 use it in proportion of number of cars they own, in the case quoted by Nsar it is 2:3. So the cost £Y of track B is split 2/5 to person 1, and 3/5 to person 2 [i.e. Nsar].

Part C: Persons 1, 2, 3 again split the costs £Z in proportion to number of cars used over track C. In the case here, it is 2:3:3. So the cost £Z of track C is split 2/8 to person 1, 3/8 to person 2 [i.e.Nsar], and 3/8 to person 3.

Add the costs to work out how much each person has to pay.
cost to Person 1 = £X, + 2/5 of £Y, + 2/8 of £Z
cost to Person 2 (Nsar) = 3/5 of £Y, + 3/8 of £Z
cost to Person 3 = 3/8 of £Z

If the whole track is built to the same standard, then the costs £X, £Y, and £Z will be directly proportional to the lengths of the track A, B, and C.
The track leghth ratio in Nsar's case is A:B:C = 1:1:2, and for a uniform track,
therefore the costs are in the ratio X:Y:Z = 1:1:2

Plugging that in gives the costs split between the three people in the ratio 38:27:15 which equates in % terms to 47.50%:33.75%:18.75%

However, note that the track portions A, B and C can be designed/specified by the users to meet the needs of the traffic that is going to use it. It may be that person 1 decides he does not need to overspecify his part of the track as it will be used quite lightly.

If the track is built to to uniform standard, and then the costs are amortised to take account of the use/life of each section of track, then the results of my first attempt last night may be the true long term cost to each person. [In other words, track portion A will last a long time, track portion B a middling life, and track portion C will wear out quickest].

Edited by jbif on 30/09/2008 at 11:29

Maths formula required - cheddar
>>Number Cruncher has the right answer.>>

jbif,

The number of cars is irrelevant, rather it is how much they are used that is relevant - though difficult, then you have to account for deliveries, trades people, vistors etc - all too complicated.

My figures (posted above) are a direct split based on usage of the sections of the lane as Number Cruncher concurs.

54% / 29% / 17%

Edited by cheddar on 30/09/2008 at 11:43

Maths formula required - Number_Cruncher
>>The number of cars is irrelevant

It really depends upon how Nsar and Nsar's neighbours decide what is a fair method - the maths is the easy part of this problem!

I don't think we can say right or wrong. My first post gives the mathematically correct interpretation of Nsar's question as it was posed - whether that will be viewed by all parties as fair is another question.

Your post gives another possible interpretation of fair, but, we can't say whether it's right or wrong.

Maths formula required - jbif
The number of cars is irrelevant, rather it is how much they are used that is relevant


Usage of cars, as defined by Nsar:
" ... (each car having its own driver) and broadly each driver makes the same number of journeys along the track to get to the road each day. "

As I said, Number Cruncher is right - his "first post gives the mathematically correct interpretation".

Edited by jbif on 30/09/2008 at 11:52

Maths formula required - cheddar
" ... (each car having its own driver) and broadly each driver makes the same
number of journeys along the track to get to the road each day. ">>


My thoughts are based on having been in a vaguely similar position in that past and also being in a vaguely similar (though diferent again) position now.

Of course it is up to Nsar as to what he thinks is fair though I would say that today's number of cars/journeys may not apply tomorrow so setting a precedent now by calculating in cars/journeys could backfire if one or more parties change their usage drastically and may be interpreted as needing a new calculation every time a new resident arrives, someone takes in a lodger, gets rid of / aquires a car etc. Never mind visitors, deliveries etc.

However the lane is always going to be 1/2 mile long and have 3 house off it.
Maths formula required - Mapmaker
I doubt whether the number of journeys is a critical factor in determining road life. Frost and anno domini are more likely factors - look at an abandoned WW2 airfield (plenty in East Anglia still). The runways are no longer useable, and that is not a factor of over-use.

I reckon splitting cost three ways is the fairest.

An alternative approach is to split the first .25 mile three ways, the next .125 two ways, and the last .125 one way. But to do this you will have to get out the tape measure and measure to the nearest inch. All depends on how large the bill is and how well you all get on.

83:146:270

17%:29%:54%


Maths formula required - Altea Ego
You all forget of course that cost per meter to do the work, will vary by length.

For example If just the 1/3rd was repaired it may cost (for example) £10 metre. If all the road is done this cost could come down to £8 metre.

who should benefit from the savings? he who pays most?
Maths formula required - cheddar
who should benefit from the savings? he who pays most?


Yes and he would if the whole lane is attended to so it costs £8 per meter rather than 10 or whatever and you divide the total bill by 54% / 29% / 17%.
Maths formula required - BobbyG
I take it there is nothing in title deeds etc that states who is responsible for road repairs?
Maths formula required - Nsar
Good thought Bobby, but no, it's a bridleway so the Council only have to repair it to a condition that is safe for horses.

Thanks for all the replies so far - I'm glad it's not just me that has had trouble with this one.

Further complicated of course by the relative incomes and willingness of the three households.

(It's amazing what you'll tolerate if the alternative is thousands of pounds of cost).

Maths formula required - pmh2
Question for the lawyers -Does the payment proportion that is agreed upon establish a precedent for future occupiers of the properties? Apportionment on the number of cars in regular use would seem to be a minefield! Future occupiers may not have cars (or even fuel!).

pmh2
Maths formula required - daveyjp
Your question is exactly why a lawyer would say a third each (and ours says a ninth each)- everyone can understand what they are signing up to and there are no clever loopholes for more lawyers to find.

Ease of drafting an agreement takes precedent over what is trying to be achieved - at some point in the future it will lead to tears and more lawyers bills.
Maths formula required - cheddar
Your question is exactly why a lawyer would say a third each >>


If I lived at the end of the lane then I would agree to one third, and I may also be happy with that if I were in Nsar's position. Though if I lived nearest the road I would stick out for a more equitable calculation (as per above 54% / 29% / 17%), afterall the guy nearest the road never uses half of the lane.
Maths formula required - Pugugly
I would suggest that whatever way you did it - you may feel a formal agreement written for instance written into the deeds to avoid future disputes over maintenance and access (unless they're already there) you may get on as neighbours now but things can change and access and maintenance over joint access can lead to man sleepless nights.
Electric motor design? - cheddar
Hi All,

When replacing carbon brushes on our washer/dryer motor I noticed that the brushes are not perpendicular to the commutator, makes sense I thought, the brushes are angled away from the rotation of the commutator, i.e. the brush trails across the commutator thus reducing wear.

However I then realised that the opposite is the case and the brushes are angled TOWARDS the rotation of the commutator which I would have thought would promote wear.

Any ideas why it is designed this way?


Regards.
Electric motor design? - FotheringtonThomas
Wedging (if I may say that).
Electric motor design? - cheddar
Wedging (if I may say that).


Well the pink FD sweary thingy did not get it!

Care to expand on that?



Thanks.

Edited by cheddar on 30/09/2008 at 16:44

Electric motor design? - FotheringtonThomas
Any off-centredness in the commutator will tend to push the brush up and down in their carriers, rather ftom side to side - this should actually reduce wear.
Electric motor design? - cheddar
Thanks, makes sense.

No I guess it is a reversable motor, both brushes are angled towards the rotation of the commutator, or both against, depending on which way the motor turns.

Surely one angled towards the rotation and one against would be better so it is the same (one leading, one trailing) whichever way the motor rotates?


Thanks.
Electric motor design? - Number_Cruncher
>>whichever way the motor rotates?

It's not my area of experience, but, I suspect the misalignment of the brushes will be one way, because the motor will only run at high speed in one direction - all the reversals are low speed, and the brush geometry is less sensitive for low speed running.

Electric motor design? - cheddar
Good thinking NC!
Blocking a downpipe - Dipstick
Short story - I need to block the bottom of a downpipe.

Is there a product on the market that fits standard downpipes, and if so, what is it called?

Endless googling reveals nothing under searches such as downpipe bung, plug, endcap...


If not I'll have to improvise something with Araldite.
Blocking a downpipe - daveyjp
You need a 'screw on end cap'. Try Screwfix direct.
Blocking a downpipe - Dipstick
Brilliant. Many thanks indeed.
Blocking a downpipe - billy25
cheap every day item usually at hand (if you have kids) proven and guaranteed to do exactly this job! - the humble Tennis ball!!!

Billy
Blocking a downpipe - Dipstick
Hmm. That could be even more brilliant...ta!
Flat renewal : follow up - Leif
Pugugly: Thanks for the helpful comments. FYI they produced a copy of a covering letter that was sent with the first tenancy agreement i.e. not part of the agreement, and which listed all costs payable i.e. the initial fee, the deposit and the first months rent. On the back of the covering letter were some notes relating to extra costs such as late rent payment penalties, and a renewal fee. This all seems a big iffy to me, so I will book an appointment at the local CAB during an upcoming holiday from work.
Flat renewal : follow up - spikeyhead {p}
Once upon a time landlords made a little extra money by keeping some or all of a deposit.

Now they (and more so the letting agents) make a little extra money by adding more fees than a lawyer could rationally think of.
Flat renewal : follow up - Pugugly
We once let a property through a letting agency - we wouldn't do that now unless it was holiday let. I'm not "dissing"* the industry by the way.


* I learnt the meaning of this word in Court today

Edited by Pugugly on 02/10/2008 at 00:18

Flat renewal : follow up - ifithelps
* I learnt the meaning of this word in Court today


Must have been the youth panel.
Copying cassettes to CD - L'escargot
What's the best way to copy cassettes to CD? This sort of thing tinyurl.com/3romwd or this (much cheaper) piece of kit tinyurl.com/52ztv4 ?
Copying cassettes to CD - cheddar
Cant vouch for either approach though what is it you want to record? If it is old albums on that you have on cassette then much better to get them on CD, vastly better quality than copying a cassette to CD. Many old CD albums can be had for well under £5 on Amazon etc, perhaps less on eBay.
Copying cassettes to CD - L'escargot
what is it you want to record?


I have a quantity of old cassettes (as is inevitable when you're my age!) and I can't find the equivalent on CD anywhere. I'd like to be able to play them in my car, but it's only got a CD player. Maplin is a reputable company so I would have thought their product would be OK. The vinyl2pc.co.uk product is much cheaper (£16 against £50) but I'm a bit wary of dealing with an unknown company. Maplin claim that their product will copy from any audio source so I suppose it would be daft for me to penny-pinch. I just wondered whether any Backroomer owned (or had tried) either of the two products.

Edited by L'escargot on 02/10/2008 at 08:56

Copying cassettes to CD - SpamCan61 {P}
If your PC has a 'line in ' connection then you don't need any extra hardware, apart from maybe an adaptor lead to conenct the cassette deck output to the PC line in. There are plenty of freebie programmes about to do the recording bit, such as Audacity. As it happens I've been having much the same discussion here:-

www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=30425&h...y
Copying cassettes to CD - mjm
L'escargot,

I've got the leads system, your cheaper option. I've transfered vinyl to cd with it, haven't tried tape, yet. I've a separates system and take the feed from the headphone socket on the amplifier to the line in on the pc. There is no reason I can see that should make tape transfer, or indeed live radio, any different. It works well, I just haven't found all the software tricks, yet. Maybe there is some better software availability than the Audacity which was supplied with my kit.

HTH
Copying cassettes to CD - SpamCan61 {P}
There are loads of audio editing programmes around, apart from Audacity I use Goldwave:-

www.goldwave.com/

Which isn't free, but the trial version lasts for ages. Nero Wave Editor is part of the Nero package that comes installed on many PCs, I find that reasonably user friendly. For generating ID3 tags for the resulting files I use mp3tag:-

www.mp3tag.de/en/download.html

Edited by SpamCan61 {P} on 02/10/2008 at 09:45

Copying cassettes to CD - Pugugly
www.expertverdict.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Pr...1

Maybe what you want.
Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - L'escargot
We've just received an SPC for our bungalow and were surprised to see that the main heating controls were rated in the summary as "poor". We have an electronic programmer which enables heating and water to be controlled independently of one other, and all radiators have TRVs. In what way is that poor? What would be better?

The floor is solid, insulated, and that received no performance comment at all in the summary. Surely a solid insulated floor is good?

As far as I'm concerned our property (which is only 13 years old and was built to all the then current regulations and standards) is quite energy efficient, and yet it received a rating of only 54%.

I think that when I see an SPC for a property for sale I'll treat it with a pinch of salt.
Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - SpamCan61 {P}
IIRC it's generally considered a good idea to have one radiator without a TRV, for a couple of reasons, the pump might not like it if all the TRVs are shut, and if the room thermostat is set to a high tempersture but the TRVs are all set to a low temperature the system is likely to get a tad confused. Can't see any relevance to this SPC malarkey though. A quick Google has not revelaved the criteria for assessing heating controls as part of SPC but I'll keep trying.
Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) surprises - L'escargot
IIRC it's generally considered a good idea to have one radiator without a TRV for
a couple of reasons the pump might not like it if all the TRVs are
shut ........


The system has a permanent bypass pipe to ensure that the water flow never gets blocked off. We don't have a room thermostat.
Can't see any relevance to this SPC malarkey though.


I've challenged the Energy Efficiency Rating as being unjustifiably low, pointing out that an unjustifiably low rating could prejudice our chances of selling the property. I'm not going to hold my breath awaiting a favourable reply!

EPC not SPC in thread title. Ooops.

Edited by L'escargot on 02/10/2008 at 12:42

Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - adverse camber
does the system allow you to heat different parts of the house or does it heat the whole house all the time?

I think that there is a move to zoned heating with thermostats for each zone.

If you are in the living room most of the day but still heating the bedrooms that may well be seen as a -ve.
Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - adverse camber
Id also say that not having any room thermostat will almost certainly be seen as poor.
Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - daveyjp
EPC are done using quite a basic tick box sheet - very little science involved, as such results can be very flawed. If the system was sound don't you think new houses should get A or B ratings? Very few do.

The condolence for the vendor is very few people will look at it and those that do probably won't understand it. It wouldn't be high on my list as a reason to buy a house.

Question to OP - have you asked how long it is valid for? Have you this question and the response in writing?

Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) surprises - L'escargot
Question to OP - have you asked how long it is valid for? Have you
this question and the response in writing?


No to all three questions. Unfortunately I didn't think to ask. But now I might!

Edited by L'escargot on 02/10/2008 at 14:27

Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) surprises - L'escargot
Id also say that not having any room thermostat will almost certainly be seen as
poor.


A room thermostat would clash with thermostatic radiator valves, espacially in the room it's situated.

Edited by L'escargot on 02/10/2008 at 14:27

Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) surprises - Group B
I think your house will have been assessed using the SAP methodology, you can download the SAP calculation document including all the tables of variables here:
www.projects.bre.co.uk/sap2005/

This explains the SAP system but does not explain the ratings given on the EPC. I've not yet found a document that explains the methodology behind the EPC's "summary" (I think it will only be available if you pay for it, or train up as an assessor!).
Looking at the SAP document, the heating controls are rated from 1 to 3, and it appears that your system gets a rating of 2; so how that equates to "poor" on the EPC I don't know?

The SAP calc is quite complicated IMO (not really difficult, but requires a long methodical slog). I once tried to calculate one for our house, but quickly got bored and gave up.


An EPC is valid for 10 years, unless you are selling the property in which case it cannot be more than 12 months old. When it expires AFAIK the home owner is responsible for having the house reassesed, and is responsible for the cost.


Will be interesting to know what response you get from the energy assessor, L'escargot?

Edited by Rich 9-3 on 02/10/2008 at 16:21

Energy Performance Certificate (SPC) surprises - billy25
If you really need "zoned" heating it's simple enough to turn the radiators in the unused rooms down to the "frost" setting, granted this will allow a "bleed" of water through the radiator, but if you really "want" the bedrooms totally isolated you can do that with the TRV isolation cap.

Billy