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I Have a Question - Volume 248 [Read Only] - Dynamic Dave

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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 17/09/2008 at 14:41

Central heating boiler change - wemyss
If you are reasonably adept with tools its relatively simple to service the older boilers.
Having a service sheet and the original installation booklet you would have no problem.
The service sheet may tell you to check the gas pressure from the gas valve for which you would need a U tube, but in actual fact I have never known one change its pressure during the boilers lifetime.
And if the flame looks a nice blue colour I wouldn?t bother.
The rest is relatively a simple dismantle and clean the burner and give it a vacuum out.
Many of the older boilers were installed and not looked at again unless they went wrong but I always used to open mine up every two or three years to have a look inside and a clean out of dust etc.
In actual fact there is no need for you to disconnect or even turn off the gas to remove the burner.
GlowWorm Hideaways were after my time and just rang my mate who worked for them all his life and retired in 1998 to query them.
He tells me they were the last of their conventional boilers and were making them in 1998.
Yours would have been one of the last to be made. Excellent boilers made in a range of 40s.50s and 60s he recalls which would relate to the Btu output in X1000.
Balanced flue models and also top outlets.
Nothing difficult to service and would simply consist of cleaning the burner and the flueways and that the lot. Just turn off your electric supply to the boiler and remove anything necessary to lift off the burner and get your vacuum pipe inside. Give the burner a clean and its job done.
What I would recommend for anyone is a CO monitor inside the room where the boiler is. Only about £15.00 and lasts for years.
wemyss
Central heating boiler change - bathtub tom
I was surprised to find the inside of the heat exchanger (?) of my old Gloworm Majorca back boiler completely carboned up. We'd only recently bought the house, and I was concerned about the orange glow from the boiler when it fired up, the black streaks up the fireplace and the 'not quite smell' which I assume was less than healthy.

I'm going back many years now. The boiler had only been fitted about three years previously. I was able to take the front off the heat exchanger - it was full of carbon. It never happened again for the next twenty-odd years it lasted. What do you reckon could have caused that?

It was replaced with another back boiler a few years ago. This one doesn't look nearly so easy to take apart. I dont think I can get into it the same.
Central heating boiler change - Altea Ego
Carbon? you mean soot?

incomplete combustion - normally lack of oxygen
Central heating boiler change - henry k
>>I was concerned about the orange glow from the boiler when it fired up,
>>
Many years ago I had the same problem with a multipoint water heater in a small bathroom.
I was told that I had been lucky not to have got carbon monoxide poisoning.
It was simply a lack of ventilation so the combustion was not getting enough air and the sooting up was the other clue.

Since then stricter regulations have come about.
The two 90 degree bends in the flue of our heater was outlawed for 45 degree bends to speed the gasses away.
Many more balanced flue /fan assisted flue boilers (i.e. room sealed so none of the air inside the room is used in the combustion.) have been installed.
As mentioned earlier flue location relative to windows.

Be aware.
If a CORGI guy attends and cannot fix certain faults then the boiler may be IMMEDIATELY CONDEMED making it illegal to use it..
This happened to us with a cooker.
Central heating boiler change - wemyss
The Majorca was a great boiler and fitted many of these. The Galaxie was the same boiler with a different gas fire fitted to it. Virtually all boilers fitted in my area were Gloworm as it was a local company. So well made that even the brackets were made from cast iron. Their foundry is now an housing estate and the last castings they ever needed were done in India.
I fitted one in my house and it was still good after 31 years. Never even changed the thermocouple. Still working as good as ever when the wife decided she needed a change.
The only items replaced were the radiants on the gas fire and I converted the gas fire igniter from battery to piezo.
Just checked the old manual and it specified 12 square inches of free air for combustion.
Why it would soot/carbon up is debatable especially that it never did it again.
You would of course have needed a 5 inch flue liner for this boiler...
Perhaps the suggestions above of incomplete combustion are correct and you made some alteration in your house which gave it more air. only guessing.......

wemyss

Central heating boiler change - Dog
Thanks for that wemyss, I must admit though, that in my mobile tuning days, I used to hate it when someone had previously fiddled with thier twin carbs, then I had to set them all up again but - hey, thats life!
I noticed that a cetain 'British Gas' company were offering to carry out a boiler service quite cheaply, but when I read the small print, all they really do is a flue & CO test, they don't actually do a strip & clean job.
I must admit that I've always "drawn the line" when it comes to gas, preferring to leave it to peops like you who know what they're doing, but economics have dictated that at age 55, I've had to learn how to plasterboard a ceiling, take up & refit a tongue & groovy floorboards, wire in an extra wall socket - it all comes down to gumption really + common sense ... I know Uni grads, boffins, specialists in their field - can't bang a nail in the wall.
As I've said before, I'm quite handy with an Irish screwdriver, but I would *NEVER* touch the actual gas part of a boiler, and I would strongly advise anyone to leave the gas to the peops who know what they are doing !!!
I shall be buying a CO alarm this weekend.

Cheers - Dog.
Central heating boiler change - Mapmaker
Irish screwdriver - I've always known them as a Manchester screwdriver.


Central heating boiler change - Mapmaker
From last thread: >>Also, I know that gas boilers have to be serviced by a Corgi reg.

No. Strangely, you can legally do anything you like with gas on a DIY basis provided you comply with building regs (there is the whole issue of competence, of course). Obviously if the place is rented, you need a safety cert; and to work on somebody else's gas and earn a living you need to be a Corgi.

However, with electricity you do need to be Part P qualified OR have it signed off by the building inspector. Bonkers. The Government thought that they were bringing the two in line... Oh no...
Central heating boiler change - Altea Ego
From last thread: >>Also I know that gas boilers have to be serviced by a
Corgi reg.
No. Strangely you can legally do anything you like with gas on a DIY basis
provided you comply with building regs (there is the whole issue of competence of course).
Obviously if the place is rented you need a safety cert; and to work on
somebody else's gas and earn a living you need to be a Corgi.


The rules (legal) for working on your own gas powered things at home are very simple. It needs to be done by a competent person. If it does not leak or blow up and its done according to the regs its competent. If it does (either) you were not competent.
Same this applies if you have a corgi registration. Do it wrong and you get prosecuted for not being competent - the registration wont save you.
Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
I've had to learn how to plasterboard a ceiling


You might not be allowed to do that without submitting an application, which will cost you, to your council's "building control".
take up & refit a tongue & groovy floorboards


You might not ... (as above).
wire in an extra wall socket


Unfortunately, yo certainly aren't allowed to do that, you naughty boy!
it all comes down to gumption really + common sense



Yes.

;) "Don't tell'im, Pike!"
Central heating boiler change - Clk Sec
;) "Don't tell'im, Pike!"


Take care, though. Some day you might want to sell.

Clk Sec
Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
>> ;) "Don't tell'im Pike!"
Some day you might want to sell.


After (1? 3?) years, no enforcement action can be taken. However, in extremes, your point is quite valid - I'm not sure that HIPs document everything, but they do some things. BB will be along soon to "correct" any oversights in monitoring/enforcement, I don't doubt.
Central heating boiler change - Clk Sec
>>I'm not sure that HIPs document everything, but they do some things.

I was thinking more of the vast amount of paperwork a seller now has to complete, with many searching questions regarding building works, windows and doors, central heating boilers, electrics etc, etc.

Around thirty pages in all.

Clk Sec
Central heating boiler change - Mapmaker
FT>>After (1? 3?) years, no enforcement action can be taken.

Not true. Failure to follow building regs never becomes acceptable.

FT>>>> wire in an extra wall socket
>>Unfortunately, yo certainly aren't allowed to do that, you naughty boy!

Not true. You can add an extra wall socket anywhere other than outside or the kitchen. Only if in either of those places, then you need to have it inspected by building control - or have it done by a Part P electrician.
Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
FT>>After (1? 3?) years no enforcement action can be taken.
Not true. Failure to follow building regs never becomes acceptable.


If you can point me to an authoritatve source, I shall be grateful, since a BCO I know says it's 12 months.

FT>>>> wire in an extra wall socket
>>Unfortunately yo certainly aren't allowed to do that you naughty boy!
Not true.


Hm. I think adding a socket on a spur is OK - not in the ring. Is that true?
Central heating boiler change - Lud
What a load of nonsense this is. If you can count up to three and have colour vision electrical house wiring is pretty straightforward and you are a competent person. Jobsworths may be legally entitled to make silly interfering noises and get up your nose but you are morally entitled to send them off with a flea in their ear.

The worst problem usually is deciphering any pre-existing wiring.
Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
What a load of nonsense this is.


I absolutely agree.
Jobsworths (..) you are morally entitled to send them off with a flea in their ear.


Unfortunately, they may come back to bite you.

There's also the point that some people are afraid of these people and their regulations, despite the fact that no-one need know about some changes, and nothing can be done after a while even if they do. I've a relative like this, who's wasted £££ at least, maybe ££££. Pish.
Central heating boiler change - Group B
>> FT>>After (1? 3?) years no enforcement action can be taken.
>> Not true. Failure to follow building regs never becomes acceptable.
If you can point me to an authoritatve source I shall be grateful since a
BCO I know says it's 12 months.



He might mean a Section 36 enforcement notice for contravention of Building Regs? S36 cannot be served more than 12 months after completion of work. But I think that does not remove the risk of, at time of sale, solicitors flagging up work done without approval (it may or may not get flagged up), and you may have to apply retrospectively.

I know a builder who recently had to apply retrospectively for work he did on his own house 8 years ago, before the sale could be completed.

Building regs should not be required solely for re-boarding a ceiling or fitting new floorboards as its non-structural work.

Are you allowed to add a socket on a spur, I'm not really up to speed on Part P? Planningportal.gov.uk should have the answer, but I dont have time to check.

Edited by Rich 9-3 on 12/09/2008 at 19:45

Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
Building regs should not be required solely for re-boarding a ceiling or fitting new
floorboards as its non-structural work.


I'm afraid it is. There've been changes.
Central heating boiler change - bathtub tom
I recall the wire mesh filter surrounding the injector (?), the gas pipe that points towards the cone that feeds the burner, was covered in fluff the first time I looked at the boiler. Could explain why it was sooted up.
Central heating boiler change - FotheringtonThomas
Altea Ego wrote:
FT I have a stelrad floor mounted in use. Its about 20 years old.
IF you dont find a good home for it and the OP doesent want it I
may be interested.
The mods will forward you my email address if you ask.


If you want it, you can have it. It's got original documentation as well.
Central heating boiler change - Dog
To be perfectly Honest - John ... I reckon only qualified peops should be allowed to touch gas appliances ... with electrickery, you only take yourself out (mainly) if put the green wire where the brown wire should go, but with gas, you could send your whole family to kingdom come + the neighbs as well.
Re: plasterboard, the original ceiling was Asbestos, and I should (I believe) have got a specialist Co. to remove and dispose of said carcinogen, but, like a lot of peops these days - I get sick and tired of EEC directives, the nanny state & the PC brigade.

Thanks to all for your help & advice - diydog!
Central heating boiler change - Another John H
The debate about "qualified peops" and gas is interesting, because the two (small) gas leaks I've dealt with "competently*" as a non qualified person were caused by gas fitters performing a guarantee repair (different house, different repair).

I.E. there was no leak before they started, and there was when they left having finished their work.

I was never quite sure if the one who checked a gas fire installation I had done was having a laugh when we were discussing plumbing - he said he couldn't do that as water always came out somewhere...


* leak fixed, and didn't return.
Central heating boiler change - Dog
Ere!!! I must tell you this *true* story ... Wifey & I had just moved into a house in Hastings some 20 odd years ago, having escaped from London ...
I wanted to place the fridge under a unit but there was a large diameter pipe in the way, I checked to make sure everything I could switch off, was switched off, got my hacksaw out and proceeded to cut through the the kitchen like a headless chicken terrified the house was going to blow up, I called to er indoors hoping she would do something constuctive like opening the doors and windows, but no, she just ran out of the house and left me to it ... I eventually found the main stop cock & called the gasboard ...
The very next week we had The Hurricane of 1987 :(
Central heating boiler change - Lud
Heh heh Dog.

Gas fitters used to test for leaks in new or old work by playing a flame over the joints. If any gas was coming out it caught fire. Then they could take the joint apart and assemble it with more gunge. I've seen wicked old gas fitters release huge amounts of gas without turning a hair. Of course the old poisonous coal gas smelt more, but this modern stuff has a pong too albeit fainter.

Standard British Gas fitters charge proper money to 'service' water heaters but they specifically exclude pilot lights. This is a swizz because North Sea gas is dirty stuff and slowly gunges up the small holes in the system with a sort of crust.

Fortunately a rational person with spanners, solvents and small probes doesn't need the carphounds for that at least.
Central heating boiler change - Dog
>Gas fitters used to test for leaks in new or old work by playing a flame over the joints<

Yes, I've been thinking of that Lud, this house is 70 years old and I've often smelt gas around the supply pipe to the coal effect fire - even when its not in use, and I've thought of using a match to "check it out" ... obviously, to cause an explosion, gas has to build up to a fairly high volume in an enclosed space, so I would have "the guts" to check it out using a flame.
We have a 5 ring gas hob, and I notice that the burners and jets are like new, so I would assume that the boiler is the same (I'll find out)
But with oil (kerosene) that is a whole different ball game, we had an oil fired Rayburn a few years back, and that needed cleaning out every year, glad I'm not on oil now though - The price of the stuff !!
Central heating boiler change - crunch_time
I don't think you can beat a saucer of washing up liquid/water mix brushed on joints to check for gas leaks - cheap and effective.


Central heating boiler change - Dog
>>> don't think you can beat a saucer of washing up liquid/water mix brushed on joints to check for gas leaks - cheap and effective.<<<

And ... A damn sight safer!

Cheers - Dog.
Central heating boiler change - Altea Ego
FT

what part of the country you in? what model is it?

cheers

Central heating boiler change - Pugugly
OK to send the your e-mail details on AE ?
Central heating boiler change - crunch_time
Slight thread swerve.....

Considering my only real problem is when a strong NEly is blowing, I'm considering putting a sheet of aluminium on one vertical section of the cage over the outlet. The cage stands about two inches off the baffle plates and, as the name implies, is open all round.

Might or might not work, but it shouldn't cause any problems?


NOT a question - just a tip! - Armitage Shanks {p}
If you travel much by train you might be interested in the "Bite" discount card. Apply at www.bitecard.co.uk for a free card. It gives a 20% discount on all purchases at outlets such as Upper Crust and Pumpkin Cafe, which are mainly at stations. Also at Burger King although I don't think even a 20% discount wuld get me in there! Passed on for what it is worth!
NOT a question - just a tip! - Pugugly
Oh, and Roadchef service areas knock off a walloping 15% off their meals when you flash your RAC card - makes your brekkie a bit more wallet friendly.

Edited by Pugugly on 12/09/2008 at 11:58

NOT a question - just a tip! - PhilW
And, if you download Sainsbury's locations as POIs to your satnav from
www.pocketgpsworld.com/
You can get a full English breakfast for £2.69 in their cafes - bacon, egg, sausage (a sausage that actually tastes of something!!), beans, tomato, hash brown thing, buttered toast - good value - keeps me going most of the day. Lots of Sains on edge of towns close to motorways/major routes.

You can probably also download Tescos, Asdas etc which probably do the same sort of deal - but I haven't got round to that yet!

By the way, to add to PU's post - the 15% RAC discount applies to ANYTHING you buy at Roadchef - paper, magazine, coffee, Fruit gums (can't drive long distances without a sugar shock from boiled cow!!) - anything.

Phil
Window opening mechanism - tyro
What is the name given to this window opening mechanism?

tinyurl.com/4c9zg6

And what are reckoned to be its pros and cons?
Window opening mechanism - adverse camber
friction hinge
www.screwfix.com/prods/14468/Ironmongery/Hinges/Fr...s

commonly used on upvc windows.

I guess the advantage is rhat friction holds them in position without a stay
Window opening mechanism - henry k
>>I guess the advantage is that friction holds them in position without a stay
>>
And I know the disadvantage is that you have to reach out through the open window to close it.
It is especially a "pain" if it is a small high up to window.
Not many ( if any) double glazing companies tell you that.

High level windows with stays were a good design.

Edited by henry k on 12/09/2008 at 12:35

Window opening mechanism - daveyjp
Looks like a standard UPVC opening system to me - well proven technology

Pros - the window doesn't blow open when slightly open and you don't need a window stay. The mechanism is hidden when the window is closed so a tight seal can be achieved eliminating draughts and reducing noise.

Con is the plastic moulding which connects the metal bars can break and you need to replace the mechanism. Runners need keeping clean and lubricated. WD40 or light oil does the job.

There are also limits to the size of window they can be used on. One of ours had to be a bottom opener as it was too long for a side opening mechanism.

The window can only be opened as far as the mechanism allows and the opening is narrower as the whole window slides across, rather then opening from a hinged point.

In my experience it's a good system.

"And I know the disadvantage is that you have to reach out through the window to close it."

Agreed. This is a pain in kitchens if you have to lean over a worksurface or sink. When ours is fully open I have to go outside and push it closed as I'm not tall enough to reach over the sink and reach the handle.



Edited by daveyjp on 12/09/2008 at 12:37

Window opening mechanism - Altea Ego
disadvantage is that the hinge (on its own) does not bring the hinge side of the window back tightly into the frame to complete a seal. An additional feature is needed ( a kind of spur and socket) to force the hinge side of window tightly closed. This feature wears or breaks.
Window opening mechanism - henry k
>>There are also limits to the size of window they can be used on.
>>One of ours had to be a bottom opener as it was too long for a side opening mechanism

We have a a 32inches w X 44 high bottom opening landing window so I wonder how big they can be made.
Window opening mechanism - tyro
Thanks all.

>>This is a pain in kitchens if you have to lean over a worksurface or sink. When ours is fully open I have to go outside and push it closed as I'm not tall enough to reach over the sink and reach the handle.

Ha! Been there, done that. I thought our kitchen was the only one like that. In fact, I'll bet ours was worse than yours, since I'm 6'1", and I had to go outside to close the window over the kitchen sink, even when it wasn't fully open. Luckily for us, it has been sorted now.
Norfolk Broads - Long weekend - cheap boat hire - Tron
Any one point me in the right direction to a cheap boat hire faicility please?

All I can find are companies wanting to charge me an arm & a leg (£300 to £800+) for a two birth cruiser for 3 to 4 nights (weekend or midweek break).

Last year I paid £165 - has marine fuel gone up that much?!

2 adults 1 small dog and all my pike fishing gear - any location on the Norfolk broads will do and any motorised two berth boat too. Must have basic mod cons - something to cook on, place to wash/shower/toilet etc.

Even a chalet rental with boat hire (motorised of course) will suffice.

Looking at 2nd or 3rd week(end) of October.

If you want to pass details on ask the mods for my email address.

Do you own a boat or chalet/holiday home that you lease out? If so, then please do get in touch!
Norfolk Broads - Long weekend - cheap boat hire - Armitage Shanks {p}
A very quick google, before I go to work, has a firm called Richardsons offering a boat of the size you want for £330 for a week BUT with 20% off for an October booking.
Norfolk Broads - Long weekend - cheap boat hire - Tron
Richardsons offering a boat of the size you want for £330 for a week


AS many thanks for this - booked 2 birth 'mini cruiser' £45 per night.
Northern Lights - Air Trip - Happy Blue!
It is SWMBO's big birthday later this year. After some discussion about how to mark it, one of the things she fancies is one of these trips to view the Northern Lights. It involves a lecture at a hotel close the airport, then a three hour flight to view (95% chance apparently) the Aurora Borealis and then home.

Anyone done this before? The bumpf we have indicates they have it all thought out, with an astronomer on board to keep interested, those people on the wrong side of the plane etc. Just wondering if the £150 cost pp was worth it?
Northern Lights - Air Trip - Stuartli
I would have thought that £150pp was remarkably cheap.....:-)
Northern Lights - Air Trip - Pugugly
I'd go for it - pay by credit card ! At least there's not much chance of being stranded anywhere !
Northern Lights - Air Trip - Armitage Shanks {p}
I looked at this a few weeks ago and decided against it. The main reason was the very limited field of view out of an aircraft window, even if you are in the window seat. In particular you can't see 'Up' very far and the aurora is at 60+ miles above the Earth, I think. Even with nice people swapping seats and so on I don't fancy one's chances of seeing it even if it is there. I contented myself with watching the lovely Joanna Lumley viwing the phenomenon on TV a few nights ago and that was good enough for me! That said the cost for 2 is only the cost of a decent weekend away somewhere so why not try it? Good luck, if you go for it!
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Armitage Shanks {p}
I have a 13 year old semi with the loft insulated with fibre glass/ Rock wool or whatever it is. I am inclined to increase the thickness. I am unhappy about working with rolls of fibre insulation and am considering topping up with granular vermiculite, £14.40 for 100 litres. Question is whether this is a good way forward? I appreciate that the weight of the vermiculite may pack down the fibre glass but in the end if I increase the overall thickness of the insulating layer I shall have a result - or shall I? Is vermiculite very heavy? I think not. Please comment and advise
Loft Insulation - Top Up - daveyjp
Space blankets offer rolls of fibre, but wrapped in a foil bag, so no nasty fibres everywhere - about £14 for 2 in Wickes at the moment.

www.space-insulation.com/blanket.html

I'd hold on until the details of the govt latest initiative are revealed. It's set to offer discounts of 50% on loft insulation, but that could be the spin before the substance.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - L'escargot
I think it might be easier to apply another layer of fibre glass than vermiculite.

Edited by L'escargot on 16/09/2008 at 09:13

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
I'd second the space blanket suggestion. Did my loft partly in trad wool because it was cheaper and then tried space blanket because it was on offer at B&Q and it was so much easier to work with.

Look around for offers at the DIY sheds
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Armitage Shanks {p}
Many thanks for the usual quick responses. I will look at the Space blanket method and I will wait and see if any grant or discount is available. L escargot - I wanted to avoid gloves and masks and fibres in my ancient lungs. It did seem to me that cutting the corner off a paper sack of something dry and granular might b easier than dealing with a semi-hazardous fibre material.The space blanket seems to provide the insulation of fibre but without the handling hazards
Loft Insulation - Top Up - L'escargot
.

Edited by L'escargot on 16/09/2008 at 09:54

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dog
My property is 72 years old, the insulation wasn't up to much at all - 3" in some places, I've recently *switched* from EDF to Southern Electric and had my loft insulation topped up to 10" with space blanket through them.
It is quite a large loft space and it took 2 men just 1 hour to carry out the work.
I spent 3 days up there clearing the space - my lungs are 56 years old and I worked up there in a sleeveless vest (not recommended!) and I didn't wear a mask either.
I had itchy arms for a very short while & that's about it.
They used 16 x 5ft rolls, The work cost me £130 which I see as money well spent!

Dog.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
Heaven knows I'm not Mr Numbers, but I'm not sure about all this loft insulation idea. I'm sure somebody will put me right in a nanosecond, but it seems to me that from a money saving point of view it's a bit shaky.

Trawling about the net there seems to be a rough concensus that about 25% of heat is lost through the roof. And there also seems to be a rough "you'll save about £100 a year if you put in 8 inches of insulation and you have none already".

But in many cases, including that of me and indeed AS above, there already is some insulation there, probably the old 4 inches worth. So logically your maximum saving is going to be about £50 a year.

Ok, if the house is going to be noticeably warmer, then fine, but if you're popping down to B&Q and spending £250 or more on insulation to save £50 a year you have to start thinking whether it's worth it? In fact, when I measured my loft, I reckon it's nearer £400 at standard prices for me, and no chance of a grant. I appreciate fuel costs will increase, but anything with a payback period of some years needs a think.

Being cynical, I'd be interested in where those 25% and £100 savings figures originally came from anyway and how accurate they are?

I'm quite prepared to for the usual "you do live up to your name, you idiot, of course it's worth doing" answer.


Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
I'm no scientist either but our house feels warmer and consequently I can persuade the family to drop a couple of notches on the thermostat.

Also read a book called the End of Oil, it's not pretty where we're heading
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
Warmer as in you had no insulation and put in the full new 8 inches worth or warmer as in you went from 4 to 8?

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
Whn we moved in we had a very old layer which I topped up to about 4 inches a few years back and last year added 8 inchces to that.

It might be a sort of placebo effect but the key was being able to get the family to dial down the thermostat - I love being cold.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - nick
>>I can persuade the family to drop a couple of notches on the thermostat.

If the thermostat is working why would you be able to lower the setting? Surely with more insulation the heating will just run less. The temperature should be the same. A bit like lowering the themostat in the fridge in summer. Ok if you want colder milk, but otherwise unnecessary.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Bromptonaut
If the thermostat is working why would you be able to lower the setting?


The thermostat is likley in the hall but, uninsulated, it's the bedrooms that loose heat quickly and feel cold. Therefore you run with the stat (& hall) warmer than necessary to maintain comfort at bed/rising time.

Solve the heat loss problem and the stat can be turned down.

Edited by Bromptonaut on 16/09/2008 at 21:06

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
Yeah.... er, what he said!

I was just using the insulation thing as leverage to allow me a few more steps towards switching the heating off altogether apart from December and January!

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Group B
Being cynical I'd be interested in where those 25% and £100 savings figures originally came
from anyway and how accurate they are?


Some sites say less, 15-20% heat lost through roof; but it can only be a guesstimate as it also depends on your walls, windows and how airtight the house is, as to what %age will be lost through other means.

This site says a 4 year payback time for topped-up insulation, if done DIY (figures are based on "an average 3-bedroom semi-detached house"): snipurl.com/3qq5f [www_energysavingtrust_org_uk]

If it was going to cost you £400 to top up insulation, it sounds like you have quite a big loft? Comparing your £400 insulation cost with a quoted £100 annual saving may not be comparing like with like?


Our house is only 8 years old so has 8" of insulation in the loft, but any less and I would have topped it up myself (with mineral wool, not glass fibre or vermiculite).
We only go in our loft for about 5 mins per month and I dont like paying to heat a draughty room we rarely enter.

;o)

Edited by Rich 9-3 on 16/09/2008 at 13:25

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Stuartli
We put loft insulation in our three-bedroomed Victorian semi, built in 1894, when we bought it in the mid-1960s.

About three years ago PowerGen, now E-On, topped up the loft insulation and installed cavity wall insulation at no expense to us - the house is much warmer in winter, especially the bedroom on the gable end side where the wind builds up speed down the back entry.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - bathtub tom
I've got four inch joists, and after laying four inches of insulation, I floored the loft.

How does that compare with modern thinking of about twelve inches of insulation?
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
That's exactly what I've inherited and don't really want to pull up the floor and have to increase the joist height, nor lose the floor.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - FotheringtonThomas
(4" insulation under floored loft)
How does that compare with modern thinking of about twelve inches of insulation?


I should say that it's at least 80% as good, if the insulating material is acceptable.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Group B
12" mineral wool insulation is 3 times thicker than 4", so gives 300% better insulation performance.
Putting 18mm chipboard over 4" insulation gives 5% improvement. May be more as limiting air movement improves things, but insulation manufacturers specs already assume the product is tightly fitted between joists, to remove voids and eliminate draughts.
You can check it with this software: www.builddesk.co.uk/sw49343.asp

Nowadays the thickness of mineral wool required to meet building regs is impractical if you want to use the roofspace. 95mm rigid isocyanurate board insulation gives approx. the same performance as 300mm mineral wool, but thats not much help if the loft is already boarded out. Its also more expensive and not as easy to fit.

Loft Insulation - Top Up - FotheringtonThomas
12" mineral wool insulation is 3 times thicker than 4" so gives 300% better insulation
performance.


I am not sure that the relationship can be expressed in these terms. Can it *really*?
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Group B
I am not sure that the relationship can be expressed in these terms. Can it
*really*?



To calculate thermal resistance (R) of the insulation, you divide the thickness by the thermal conductivity (Lambda), so it is proportional to thickness. This works for Rockwool and most materials, but this is where those new multi-foils cheat the system.
No its not normal to express it as a percentage, you normally use U-values.


;o)
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
You can insulate the roof itself if you've boarded the attic floor - quite a few staple on products around as well as that spray on stuff but that has few fans due to later problems if you need to repair the roof plus doubts over restricting air movement around rook timbers.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
I knew about the spray on stuff and had discounted it but not about staple on stuff. I'll Google for something (and do Mr Scrooge's sums). Thanks for the heads up.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Nsar
Feeling unusually co-operative today. It won't last
Haven't used it so can't endorse
www.wickes.co.uk/FOIL-INSULATION/Thermal-Insulatio...2

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
Many thanks. I'll potter about with a tape measure in the dark muttering imprecations later then.

Loft Insulation - Top Up - Group B
If insulating at rafter level its important to seal air gaps into the 'habitable space', but maintain ventilation to the roof timbers. If you insulate but end up with big draughts blowing through, the insulation will not be doing much.

If the roof is a steep pitch you may be okay; if the roof is a low pitch it may be difficult to seal gaps at the eaves - if you build small stud frames a practical distance from the eaves, will make it easier to insulate and seal it properly.
Loft Insulation - Top Up - Dipstick
Thanks for that. It's a steep pitch.

I've also discovered that the foil products may be overselling their u-value by a factor of five, at least according to some governmental research I've found, which casts a whole new light on it. Might just be cheaper to invest in a few new jummies all round and turn the heating off.



Bed-making etiquette - L'escargot
In an unoccupied bed, should the pillows be placed above or under the duvet?
Bed-making etiquette - Armitage Shanks {p}
When I sleep in a bed the duvet comes up to be just under my chin and there is an overhang at the bottom to keep my feet warm. When I make the bed the duvet stays in the same position so there is no duvet for the pillows to go under. A very neat and tidy lady friend puts her pillows over the duvet and then puts a decorative bedspread over the lot, together with a couple of small cushions, a teddy bear and a penguin. Don't ask! Are you expecting a visit from Royalty or the Fashion Police L'escargot?

Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 16/09/2008 at 11:09

Bed-making etiquette - legacylad
Bed making. Pah! To economise on washing, drying, etc during the cooler months I just get out my sleeping bag and lay it on the mattress. Having spent so much of my life under canvas it comes naturally. Leave the bedroom windows slightly open to allow in plenty of fresh air, and I sleep like a top. Some people think its a bit odd. Well, really.
Bed-making etiquette - FotheringtonThomas
The "duvet" should be positioned however tose things are for sleeping (up to the pillow, like proper blankets). The whole lot shoule be covered by a bedspread.
Bed-making etiquette - deepwith
I am intrigued - what prompted the question?
Bed-making etiquette - Lud
What's a duvet?

If you mean one of those huge great eiderdown things with a white cover to show the dirt, you DON'T HAVE TO MAKE THE BED AT ALL.

What a moronic question.
Mortgage Payment Protection Insurance - Alanovich
I was about to take out a mortgage protection policy for a new mortgage which I was expecting to complete in October. The reason for waiting was that the monthly premium would be twice as expensive if the policy were taken out now on my existing mortgage, rather than wait and start the policy on the start date of the new mortgage.

However, two things have happened which have put a rather large fly in the ointment. My house sale is falling through, and also my company yesterday announced a large number of redundancies. What perfect timing. At this stage I have no idea if my job is at risk. Obviously, if redundancy happens, that's the house move out of the window for the time being.

Looking at these policies again this morning they mostly state (quite expectedly), that no benefit will be paid if I could reasonably have had knowledge of redundancy.

Now I'm now lawyer, and that word "reasonably" seems to be legalese to cover all bases for the insurance company.

If I took out a policy today, and then were to be made redundant, what are my chances of making a succesful claim?

And yes, I know, I should have done it sooner. I'm just cursing my luck that I was planning to do this in the near future, and I've been caught out. It's my tough luck of course, but thought it worth asking in case anyone on here has a legal bent and could indicate if I had a half decent chance of a claim under the circumstances.

Edited by Alanovich on 16/09/2008 at 11:02

Mortgage Payment Protection Insurance - Altea Ego
Mortgage protection providers are notorious for failing to pay out, to the extent that most policies are not worth the paper they are printed on. I would say:

a: morally (and therefore probably legally) you are not complying with the terms of the contract as you know there is a risk of redundancy.
b: they will check back and you wont get any money.


Mortgage Payment Protection Insurance - Alanovich
Thanks, AE. Kinda what I expected to hear.

Oh, and for the record, I'm not a banker. ;-)
Mortgage Payment Protection Insurance - Armitage Shanks {p}
Most people seem to think that these policies are expensive rubbish. Years ago my daughter had one and she lost her job on the grounds of ill-health. She had a very debilitating bout of ME and the insurer refused to pay on the grounds that ME was not a disease. If you must have one of these policies at least shop around and don't buy anything offered by a bank or a mortgage lender. These policies fall into the same bracket as those offered by high street retailers on PCs and white goods = may pay out but very pricey.
Killing weeds in lawns - legacylad
Being the worlds (worst) reluctant gardener please can anyone answer the above. Both my lawns, front & back, have a wonderful combination of dandelions and moss. On the smaller front lawn, I had a combination of 'senior moments' and spread Weedol liberally over most green stuff! Oops! Tis now brown and dead.
My back lawn is considerably larger (x30) so I shall need a copious amount of something...Verdone has been recommended by my local garden shop, but it is very expensive for the amount I shall require. Are there any suitable alternatives please?
Killing weeds in lawns - Alby Back
Anti-weed membrane and a bulk load of gravel

;-)
Killing weeds in lawns - Dipstick
Moss might be because of poor drainage and light, so if that's the case mosskiller on it will only be a short term fix before it comes back.

We had a "lawn" that was virtually all moss. We cut down a lot of surrounding vegetation and thinned the rest, and the moss magically turned to grass for free. Made the garden feel bigger too.



Killing weeds in lawns - Alanovich
If you're as lazy and uninterested in gardening as me (which is very, very lazy and uninterested), then think about getting in a company like greenthumb, who will come once a month to maintain your lawn in peak condition for a couple of quid a month. They're even cheaper than my local window cleaner.
Killing weeds in lawns - billy25
At this time of year, (back-end) grass growth will be starting to become less vigorous, so now is the time to start planning your assault on the moss and weeds for the start of next season.
From now on for a few months, the ground is going to be more damp than dry, which moss loves! - so you have to give it a good scaring and a severe weakening. 1st i would give thw whole lawn a good scarifying with a scarifyer, do this in two opposing directions, this will not only "rake" a good deal of the moss out, but also a lot of old "mulch" from missed lawn clippings etc, which help to hold moisture. 2ndly fill any "low areas" with sharp sand, not only to level up, but to help prevent standing water patches (puddles) which can kill grass and leave the area for weeds to enjoy. 3rdly spend a couple of hours one afternoon walking around with your garden fork, jamming it in to the lawn (in as many places as possible) to a depth of at least 4inches.
Do this once or twice more over the winter period, and at the start of the next growing season April/May, start the season with a further heavy scarifying, scatter seeds on any bare/thin spots there may be (especially where a lot of moss has been removed) and once things start growing strongly apply weed n feed to the recommended doseage.
the real key to dealing with moss is to get the ground dryer!.

hth

billy
Killing weeds in lawns - borasport20
Billy - you sound like an expert, and the green patch in front of our house is 50% thatch, 50% moss.

- any chance you can come over and give me a demonstration ;-)
Killing weeds in lawns - billy25
Billy - you sound like an expert, <<


merely standing on the backs of giants - as the saying goes!!
sometimes your eyes can be your best gardening tool!!
To get to my little allotment (which i rent from the local Rugby club) i have to walk up the footpath at the end of the pitch, my post above is simply what the groundstaff have been doing to the pitch this last week for exactly your problem!! ;-) ;-)

Billy

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 17/09/2008 at 02:01

Killing weeds in lawns - Baskerville
Moss looks a bit like grass if you squint at it.

Dandelions are quite good looking flowers and you can mow them if you want green.

My advice is to open a bottle of red, put on some Bach and relax.

Or pay someone else to sort it out.

Or both.
Killing weeds in lawns - Stuartli
Buy a large carton of lawn feed, weed and mosskiller - works for me.....

Lawn Sand can also be used for moss, but seems difficult to get hold of these days; Wilkinson sold out of its £1.29 pack and is not getting any more in stock, although it's still listed via the website.
Killing weeds in lawns - henry k
Buy a large carton of lawn feed weed and mosskiller - works for me.....

>>
You must use the Autumn version. It feeds the roots and not the green bits.
Wilko is easily the cheapest source, in the high street, of all garden stuff.
Lawn Sand can also be used for moss but... .

Keep it off the patio / path ( dont forget it is on your boots when you exit the lawn) unless you like rust marks.

For really soggy areas if you are feeling keen, stick the fork in 4 / 6 inches, waggle it and then fill the holes with sand ( not lawn sand).

Spot weedkiller in a spray bottle is cheapest in Wilko or buy their own brand in a bottle, dilute it and refill the sprayer.

Similarly I buy their lawn feed in a bottle, dilute it and use a hose end sprayer.

Be warned ANY spring / summer feeding will have a dramatic effect. Green within days but an increase in growth means much more mowing.
Killing weeds in lawns - Altea Ego
Moss looks a bit like grass if you squint at it.
Dandelions are quite good looking flowers and you can mow them if you want green.
My advice is to open a bottle of red put on some Bach and relax.
Or pay someone else to sort it out.
Or both.


AND

Moss does not need mowing.
Killing weeds in lawns - nick
Another vote for moss, I love it.

Also, if you have a dog or cat, think twice about splurging loads of chemicals on your lawn. I read some research some years ago which suggested a causal link between the regular use of garden chemicals, particularly lawn treatments, and cancer and other ailments in household pets. Not seen anything about it since but that could just be because there's no money in looking at it.
Killing weeds in lawns - JH
l
use Verdone BUT apply it with a sprayer not a watering can. Much more economical. Expect to kill 80% of the weeds. You'll need to go over again for the rest. Moss, forget it. If you do get rid of it;
a. there'll be no grass left either!
b. it will come back.

And now is the wrong time of year so forget it until next spring.

JH
Killing weeds in lawns - Tron
I use the Morrisons own brand granular stuff - works fine on my lawns and my half the of the front lawn is considerably greener and with much satisfaction than my neighbours because he is a trained gardener (but retired) so his garden looks like something Allan Titchmarsh planted!

Don't clump this stuff up when you sprnkle it about because you will scorch the grass to death!

If you have a dog, the one with testicles is ok to pee on the grass - the one without - you send next door to pee on his lawn :-)
Killing weeds in lawns - billy25
>>If you have a dog, the one with testicles is ok to pee on the grass - the one without - you send next door to pee on his lawn :-) ?<<

the reason intrigues me! - pray do explain! - is it something to do with them there hormone things? - i've heard/read stories in Angling publications regarding increased catch rate if your dearly beloved (female!) gives your Lugworms a good dousing, or if thats not possible, a recommended 2nd best is a squirt of wd40!.
Personally, i just relied on pure skill!! ;-)

Billy
Killing weeds in lawns - Altea Ego
Billy

As the owner of a lawn killing black bitch I can answer this.


Its due to the salts, nitrogen and hormones in dog wee. Funnily its mostly the salts and nitgrogen that kills grass and the first wee of the day is the worse. The worse part is the bright green heavily growing ring (due to the small amount of nitrogen at the edges) that is worse. Its looks like la load of crop circles.

Funnily its not that bitch wee is worse, dog wee is just as bed, but the bitch (and pups) squat to deliver it all in one puddle that does the damage. Boys spray it around a bit and it causes less damage.

The cure (and it works) is to give your dog some chopped tomatoes in its diet.

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 17/09/2008 at 14:37

Killing weeds in lawns - henry k
>>On the smaller front lawn, I had a combination of 'senior moments' and spread Weedol liberally over most green stuff! Oops! Tis now brown and dead.
>>
>>And now is the wrong time of year so forget it until next spring.
>>
IIRC the best time to seed a lawn is now (unless you live up a northern mountain) :-).
It is unlikely to dry out and it gets reasonably established ready for the spring burst.


Killing weeds in lawns - Tron
>The best time to seed a lawn is now

Mix the seed in with dry sand and scatter it or scatter it and then throw a thin layer of sand over the seed - or it just ends up as food for the birds!

Rake away any ofteh old dead stuff too because this still has the weedkiller in it and DON'T put it in your compost bin for obvious reasons!