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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 20/06/2008 at 13:48
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> I would not pay for anything overseas in a restaurant with a debit card.
> I'd use cash or credit card. In fact I do the same over here in case someone
> has tampered with the credit card machine.
Just to clarify- with a credit card you have more chance of getting a refund?
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There is more protection when buying anything with a credit card vs debit card. For example, you buy something on the Internet and it does not turn up. If the company does not give you a refund or even it went bust then you get the money back from the credit card company.
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You'll also find that buying abroad with a CC is cheaper than a debit card. The latter tends to have a fixed-price per-transaction charge of £1 or more - which is painful on a £10 drinks round.
The other advantage of a CC abroad is that the money doesn't come out of your account for a month - which gives you an extra month to check for fraudulent transactions over a debit card.
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Couple of points.
Fact: Nationwide (and maybe one or two others) do not charge you for using their Visa debit card abroad. However, the bank/atm provider may impose a charge [ as some of them also do here in the UK ]. www.nationwide.co.uk/travel/default.htm
Belief: AFAIK, using a Visa Debit card [for some reason that I do not know] apparently sometimes gives the same consumer protection as using a Credit card. This "concession" does not apply to other brands of Debit cards. Or so I hear.
Edited by jbif on 10/06/2008 at 12:51
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I have a Nationwide Flexaccount and a Credit card, purely for use abroad. As noted above, despite Nationwide saying they don't make charges for foreign use (True) the bank from whom you are withdrawing cash may do so. It is all stated very clearly before you make the transaction - something like "These 200 euros will be charged as £136.82" or something along those lines.
I find that I get a very good rate, at the airport or ferry port, by buying from Travelex who guarantee that you will get the best rate o they will refund the difference.
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I have a Nationwide Flexaccount and a Credit card .... despite Nationwide saying they don't make charges for foreign use (True) the bank from whom you are withdrawing cash may do so.
I think you will find that using any UK Credit card, Nationwide or otherwise, to withdraw Cash anywhere [including here in the UK ], you will be charged a "cash" transaction fee. I shall be surprised if you can find a UK credit card that does not charge a cash withdrawal fee.
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"I shall be surprised if you can find a UK credit card that does not charge a cash withdrawal fee."
Abbey Zero?
"With no foreign exchange fees, you could save money every time you travel with the Abbey Zero card. And if you ever unexpectedly need cash from an ATM, you'll pay zero fees*."
* - indpendent ATM operators may charge a fee. (but they do that in the UK)
Edited by daveyjp on 10/06/2008 at 13:28
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Abbey Zero?
Okay, i just looked at their terms:
Non cash interest: Typical 18.9% APR (variable)
But, and this is where they get you:
Cash advances: Introductory/Promotional rate N/A. Monthly rate 1.9137%. Annual rate 25.9%
Interest free period - There is no interest free period on Cash Transactions
Interest charging information - Cash Advances: From Transaction Date Until Repaid in full* . *Interest is calculated daily. If you pay the balance in full, any interest charge for the period from the previous statement to the date of the full repayment will be debited the following month.
Allocation of payments - cash transactions are at the bottom of the list, and are charged the highest interest applicable.
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Just to clarify - Nationwide Flexaccount make no charge for withdrawing cash abroad but sometimes the bank you are drawing it from do. I use the credit card to pay for meals, car hire, shopping etc? As you rightly observe, drawing cash on a credit card always incurs an interest charge and from the date of the wirhdrawal, not the date of the statement/bill.
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Just to clarify - Nationwide Flexaccount make no charge
You are correct [and I was wrong]. The t&c regarding interest being higher for cash withdrawals are similar to the Abbey card mentioned above, but Nationwide cards have a major benefit :
"Order of Payments (or OOPs) is the sequence that your credit card bill is paid. At Nationwide we always make sure we pay off your most expensive debt first .... Many other organisations operate a negative order of payments. "
Edited by jbif on 10/06/2008 at 17:30
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What about the post office accounts? credit and debit card?
I went in for a passport renewal form and they went into hard sell mode claiming that their package was better than the nationwide. One of them seemed to be a prepay account of some sort?
Given that I had a bored 3 yr old with me, I wasn't really in the mood to pay a lot of attention.
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Does anyone know where I can get a list of FTSE100 companies ranked in order of current dividend yield? I can find the yield for each company, but only one at a time. I'd like a convenient list.
Thanks.
{header changed}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 10/06/2008 at 20:20
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tinyurl.com/5ru3sn You have been warned... historic yield bears no relationship to future dividends.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 10/06/2008 at 20:18
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>>... list of FTSE100 companies ranked in order of current dividend yield?
I don't know how "current" it is [eg. is the data calculated daily at end of closing?], nor their source for dividends, but here is a tool:
www.iii.co.uk/markets/?type=stockfilter
You need to do some work with it to extract what you need. Yields are accessed from the "ratios" filter.
As Mapmaker says, yield is likely to be based on historic dividends and sometimes a high yield just could mean that the company's share price has declined sharply for some reason since the last dividend. [ Northern Rock?, old Marconi, etc. ]
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Thanks for that jbif, just what I wanted.
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From time to time I see signs advising that a Journey Time Trial starts - in one mile. 1/2 a mile and then starts. Usually on a dual carriageway, sign barring lorries over 7.5 tonnes from the outside lane, lasts a couple of miles and then a sign saying "Trial Ends" How do these work? Am I meant to be timing my own journey over 2 miles, is Big Brother doing it fo me? Help?
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BB is doing it for you. Your number plate has been read, your average speed at points in the trial section noted. Your car's MOT and tax has been checked, and your personal details cross-referenced to check your police records, if any. Your journey details have been permenantly recorded for future use by anyone, at any time, with your lifetime reference number. As databases are absorbed into BB's ONE system, all these other data will be available for retrospective processing by MINILUV.
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No - seriously! There are no visible cameras, just a 2 mile stretch of road with signs on it.What you describe is on the way, but not yet!
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With two lanes and a hill, lorries can take a while to overtake each other and therefore cause traffic congestion. In an attempt to improve things the trial is preventing lorries from entering the outside lane (i.e. no overtaking) to see if this helps traffic congestion.
So someone has to be monitoring the flow of traffic...
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Now then.....one to ponder over your coffee. Extracted from my eight year old son's homework tonight.
Three friends went to stay at a hotel in America. They decided to share a room because they could save money. The hotel manager charged them $30. Which was $10 each. The friends paid and went to their room.
The hotel manager realised he had overcharged them as the room was only $25. He sent the bell-boy with $5 so the three friends could have a refund.
The bell-boy did not know how to share the $5 among three people so he decided to give each friend $1 each and keep the $2 for himself as a tip.
So, the friends got $1 each back, meaning they had spent $9 each on the room.
$9 X 3 = ?
The bell-boy kept $2
How much is that altogether ? ( $9 X 3 + $2 ) ?
Is there any money left out of the $30 ?
If so, where has it gone ?
Yeah I know ! ;-)
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Tis a bit like counting backwards on your fingers and thumbs, 10, 9,8,7, 6, on one hand, and five, on the other, = 11????? ;-)
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$9 X 3 = ? The bell-boy kept $2 How much is that altogether ? ( $9 X 3 + $2 ) ? Is there any money left out of the $30 ? If so where has it gone ? Yeah I know ! ;-)
this is an old one. Look at the stages
customers hotel bellboy
30
0 30
0 25 5
3 25 2
the 27 (9x3) is the spend. the 27 (25+2) is the purchase.
The question is phrased to confuse, why would you add the 27 and the 2? they spent 27 on the room and the bellboy
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Doh ! Thanks AC
I shall of course now sound smugly intelligent over breakfast tomorrow ! ;-)
The saddest part is that various pieces of paper issued to me many years ago would infer that I should have got that fairly easily. Humph..........
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So that's where Bellboy went !
Edited by Pugugly on 11/06/2008 at 22:30
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Maybe he legged it with the dollar ? ;-)
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How much is that altogether ? ( $9 X 3 + $2 ) ?
It's merely a case of fallacious reasoning. You're mixing up spending and acquiring. The statement should be $9 x 3 - $2 not $9 x 3 + $2.
The friends spent $27, of which the hotel got $25 and the bell-boy got $2.
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Good sneaky question though. Especially given that it was posed to a class of eight year olds. Might be fun to try on some adults today !
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Can anyone please advise there is a source of spare parts for the Power Craft PC720LR, petrol driven electric generator? These were also sold under the Wolf brand name.
Owner has lost the float valve and its pin from the carb and seeks replacement items. The carb is marked " Fugina " on one side and " Fluin " on the other.
Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you.
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Have just had a look at my own Wolf 950, which I believe is the next model up from the one mentioned in my first post. The name on the carb of this one is " Fujian "
Therefore, the name " Fugina " in my first post, may well actually be " Fujian "
Anyone recognise this please?
Thank you.
Edited by Petel on 12/06/2008 at 21:58
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cant find anything about "compressors" - but here is a link
to an online manual for a 720LR generator, no mention of "spare parts" but does have an address and Helpline no which may help in your search.
www.aldiwarranty.co.uk/pdf/180.pdf
Billy
Edited by billy25 on 13/06/2008 at 03:13
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Thank you Billy, that was all I could find as well.
Rgds
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It is at least twenty-five years since our central heating system was flushed and on that occasion it was not *power* flushed, it was just drained and refilled.
I strongly suspect that there is a lot of gunge accumulated in the system...some radiators do not get as hot as others (none of them have thermostats).
Has anyone in the BR had their CH system power-flushed and, in particular, how much did they pay to have this done?
TIA
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My parents were quouted £350 for a power flush to their system. I'm not sure if they have got any further quotes. They have 8 radiators in the house.
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>>how much did they pay to have this done?
A couple of sites to give you a start on charges.
www.taps-uk.co.uk/
www.h2obaf.clara.net/page16.html
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Many thanks for those answers. The links were very enlightening. I must confess to, at least sometimes, thinking of the BR IHAQ when I should think Google !!
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I have not. However.
A "power flush" is just a big squirt of water through the system to wash out gunge, which there shouldn't be in it (unless the system has been pumping over", for instance). It is possible that this, especially if combined with aggressive cleaning chemicals, will cause problems.
What I would do, if money is any sort of consideration, or for interest, is to:
o - check that the radiatoes are not full of air (bleed them) - check c/h system, note any
"cold" radiator.
o - If need be, remove radiator. Take it into the garden, and hose it out. See whether
lots of gunge is displaced.
o - deal with other radiators as may be necessary.
o - Re-fill the system, using an inhibitor.
o - Fire up the system, check for leaks and warmth.
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>>The system is Power Flushed as a whole, this is normally done without removing any radiators. The whole process normally takes about half a day.
This flush is for new installations only or where a flush is required to validate sytem warranty.
Economy Power Flush Fee: £200 [These services are not available at this price in London, please ring for prices]<<
Good grief! thats expensive just for a "washout" on a new system!! and it shouldn't take half a day, unless you are installing the central heating system first!!!.
Funnily enough I carried out a "power-flush" ;-) on my system (which I installed in 1989),only a month ago! the system was originally filled with a "Fernox (TM) " solution, and has been drained and "rinsed" through only twice since, each time re-filling with above solution.
This time I needed to install a new radiator in the circuit, and so took full advantage of the system being drained to give it a good flush:
first, isolate the central heating flow and return from the boiler(switch off first!) by blanking the pipes (you dont need or want to pressurize the actual boiler/valves/pump etc.), and open the bypass valve fully.
second: open all radiator inlet/outlet valves fully.
third: Disconnect the inlet/outlet pipes from either the last or lowest radiator in the circuit, and connect a length of hosepipe from the flow pipe to drain. then connect the return pipe to you pressure washer. Reverse flush the system through for 30mins or until drain water runs clear. Then reassemble and refill with recommended additive.
Although my system is almost 20yrs old, there was absolutely minimal sludge in the system, just a bit of discoloured water at the start.
Billy
Edited by billy25 on 13/06/2008 at 03:51
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If the rads are hot from top to bottom, I wouldn't worry.
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I had a new (condensing) boiler fitted a few years ago when our 30 year old floor mounted Potterton gave up. I knew the guy who did the new installation pretty well and trusted him - I still do.
Before connecting the new boiler he power flushed the existing system by closing all the radiator valves but for two on one radiator. He flushed the flow one way for a while then he reversed the flow until there was clear water(?) coming through the system. With that one radiator cleaned through, he then shut it down and started on the next one.
I took most of the day and I think it's the only way to properly clean out the system.
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Due to a house fire, certain partsof my house are going to be rebuilt including a full re-wire and plumbing, heating system etc. Do not be surprised if over the next few weeks I am asking some silly questions bout these as I have never been in a position of "starting from scratch" as it were.
My first question, believe it or not, is about TVs! Prior to fire I had my Virgin cable box and external aerial which came together behind my tv and then I , very crudely, used standard co-axial aerial extension leads to feed these to various rooms in the house. This led to an unsightly mess of cables behind my TV.
Now I will be getting new aerial into house (once there is a roof to put it in). What would be the best way to get TV and Virgin to all the rooms? I can't just take extensions from the Virgin as that only gives each TV the station on the Virgin box at that time. So somewhere I need to mix the two and then send to all rooms. And hope not to lose any of the strength of the signal in the process.
(I obviously won't be doing this myself, just want to sound like I know what I am talking about when I ask for it to be done!)
Any thoughts?
Edited by BobbyG on 13/06/2008 at 16:06
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Bobby, please tell me your digital cameras weren't destroyed, I couldn't take another 27 IHAQs about megapixels!!!
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Digital cameras were safe BBD :)
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Are you asking about getting separate Virgin boxes to the other rooms because with one box you'll only ever get the same channel on the other TVs.
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No, only the one virgin box, but to be able to watch it in all the rooms (whatever channel it is on)
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What I've done with my Sky box ( presumably you could do the same with a Virgin box) is to feed the RF output from the Sky box back up into the loft, where a 6 way RF distribution amplifier then feeds the signal to each room via a length of co-ax. The TV in each room then has an RF channel tuned to the output of the Sky box.
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Spam, does that mean that each room can only watch whatever is on your Sky Box at that time? I am looking for each tv to be able to have terrestial channels plus whatever is on the Virgin box.
However I am having a bit of a rethink now, considering the only "extra" channels I have on the Virgin are Setanta and sometimes Sky Sports, and if there is a game on we will normally all watch it in living room, I am starting to think that I should maybe just either get TVs with built in digi box, or buy separate cheap digi boxes for each room and feed these direct from the aerial in the loft (with a booster if required).
Might keep it simplest?
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Spam does that mean that each room can only watch whatever is on your Sky Box at that time? I am looking for each tv to be able to have terrestial channels plus whatever is on the Virgin box.
Yes, all TVs have to watch the same Sky channel. I just tune each TV to the terrestrial channels on buttons 1 - 5 and the RF output channel of the sky box on button 6. I have no idea if the Virgin box has an RF modulated output, hopefully someone else can confirm.
I am starting to think that I should maybe just either get TVs with built in digi box or buy separate cheap digi boxes for each room and feed these direct from the aerial in the loft (with a booster if required). Might keep it simplest?
Yes, in an additional complication my daughter has a cheapo Freeview box connected between her Tv and the feed to her bedroom, I have a USB 'stick' Freeview adaptor connected on another PC, they both work fine. Personally I prefer the seperate box route as it gives a degree of future proofing , other doubtless disagree. Some of the really cheap boxes don't have a full 7 day EPG, this may or may not be an issue for you.
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Could some kind Back Roomer please give me the definitive way of best looking after re-chargeable batteries (specifically mobile phone variety).
My understanding is that a new mobile phone battery reaches its optimum performance after being fully charged and then (almost) fully discharged a number of times. My first query is how many times does this 'fully charge/fully discharge' cycle need to take place and, secondly, what is the best practice thereafter. Is it actually beneficial for the battery to be continuously discharged or is it acceptable to top it up overnight even if it is still virtually full, thereby ensuring that you start each day with a full battery.
My wife insists that topping up only when empty is always best. I reckon that one day she might be caught at the top of a mountain with an empty battery!!
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Talking batteries, some battery care advice for my little-used cordless drill would be helpful.
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The packaging of the Uniross AAA batteries I put in our cordless phones say they should be fully discharged the first 5 times to get the maximum performance and life. Read the phone instructions and the battery packaging (if you still have them) for more information.
Edited by L'escargot on 14/06/2008 at 10:10
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Read the phone instructions and the battery packaging (if you still have them) for more information.>>
Better make sure you don't put that cordless drill to your ear by mistake...:-)
Flattening rechargeable batteries after every few recharging sessions will indeed extend their lifespan.
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Ni-cd (Nickel-cadmium) - best to flatten before charging as they can suffer "memory effect" (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memory_effect )
Ni-Mh (Nickel-metal hydride) & Li-On (Lithium-ion) theorically don't suffer "memory effect" and can be recharged at any time. However, I've always found it best to run them down occasionally before recharging, although some phone manufacturers advise against this because they reckon a totally flat Ni-Mh & Li-On will not recharge.
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Many thanks DD. The wikipedia article was most helpful, particularly the FAQ section at the bottom. I think that I'll continue to charge overnight and do a full discharge/recharge about once a month.
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i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/Glasgow_Hospice/...g
This has been handed in to one of our charity shops. Its about 14 inches long, 5 inches wide and 4 inches tall. It has number 127 on it but no other markings.
I assume its some famous racing car but I am too young to know. Any ideas?
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Hotchkiss? Amilcar? Too rounded for most racing Austin 7s, but perhaps. There's what looks like a big bucket-sized crankshaft-driven supercharger at the front too.
What a charming thing (despite the cranked steering column). May turn out to be worth something actually as people collect things of that sort, and it looks like twenties or thirties vintage to me... Don't let it go for a song to a dealer, unless it's only worth a song.
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Bobby, have taken the picture round to a neighbour, who restores very old racing cars for a living. On first glance he says it is a French car due to the engine placement - he has now gone off to do some research! Will post when he comes back to me.
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Deepwith, cheers for that, much appreciated!
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My dad recieved two letters through the post from O2 (mobile network). These letters are confirmation of mobile insurance policys taken out in his name, one letter for each policy. Now he isnt with O2 but has recently upgraded with 3. So, he calls O2 and they acknowlege him as a non customer and have told him that they will start an internet investigation. In the meantime he has stopped all new DD from bank account.
How do you think this has happened, ID fraud, companies passing on information??
Has it happened to any of you guys, and what was the result?
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Does he shred his mail? I have been doing for years, anything with my name and address on it, all it takes is a bank statement to go in the bin and someone can set up direct debits with ease.
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As far as im aware he does, its very strange. Just shows what someone is capable of with such little information. Hopefully O2 will sort it out.
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Does anyone know when the fixture lists for the 2008-2009 season are likely to be published?
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Keeping an eye on this website should be the best option:
www.guinnesspremiership.com/254_24058.php
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Does anyone know if you can buy hot water pipe foam insulation in white rather than the usual grey? Needless to say it's a request from the wife. I could box the pipes in but for a variety of reasons white insulation would be easier.
Thanks
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x
Edited by pmh on 17/06/2008 at 14:20
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use White emulsion paint perhaps?
pmh
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You can get at least white, grey, green.You can also get aluminium "wrapping" to go over. You can wet jute scrim tape with diluted PVA glue, wrap that around the insulation, and paint it. There are all sorts of things you can do that are much better than simply using insulation.
"If you can't hide it, make it into a feature".
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I've tried Screwfix, B&Q and a number of online plumbers merchants without success - do you know where I can get the white from?
I emailed the makers of Climaflex (a popular brand of pipe insulation for those who don't know) and they replied to the effect that white is available as a special order - minimum quantity 10,000 metres! I only need about 10m, perhaps I could put the remainder on ebay!
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Go to a proper supplier, not online, certainly not B&Q, etc. Try your local guide, the YP, or even a plumber!
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I've just had a broken tooth filled (as an NHS patient) without the tooth being being drilled. Is this accepted practice? I wonder what percentage of dental patients are private and whether dentists rush NHS jobs to make more time for their more lucrative private jobs. What is your experience? My dentist's brochure openly states that private patients get longer appointments, and have a greater range of treatment options.
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I'm not a dentist, but for one reason or another I have had more than my fair share of dental work and I have had broken teeth filled without drilling (most recently less than a month ago in fact). The modern materials (the ones that are set with UV light) can be used exactly this way if the surface is clean. I like to ask questions and my dentist explained that drilling is a bad thing and to be avoided if possible, so you're probably better off than with the traditional method.
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Around where I live, there are no NHS dentists now.
I had used various NHS dentists many years ago when living in different parts of England and Wales. I suspected that some of them found unnecessary work just to increase their income. When I was forced to change to a private Dentist, the first one I found had all the latest high tech equipment and to stay on his books you had to have the 6 monthly check up [which I have no problem with] and after every check up there was always a "need" to get the hygienist to treat you at least twice. All the charges were sky high, and the hygienist charges were double the check-up rates at my last NHS dentist. They all did excellent work, none of them rushed their work, but at the hourly rate that they were charging that was to be expected.
The private dentist I am with now was found through recommendations, charges half the rates of the first one, is just as good, in fact is excellent and in my view the best dentist I have ever had. I choose to go every six months, and despite there being a hygienist there, have never been referred to her for further work as the dentist does any small amount of scale/tartar cleaning. Appointments are very flexible, i never have to wait more than 5 minutes [inevitable sometimes due to the previous patient's work needing more time than planned], and if you want you can ask for the receptionist to phone the day before your appointment to remind you and confirm the appointment.
I certainly can recommend my private dentist but don't as I do not want too amny other people to go there - I fear the charges would then go up!
On the other hand, my NHS Doctors "health Centre" used to be excellent, until two years ago. I have now heard from friends, colleagues and neighbours that it is impossible to get appointments to suit yourself; the staff are rude, patients are treated as if they are not welcome. The impression given is that the Centre is there for the benefit of the staff and patients are just a nuisance that they have to put up with. Any complaints and you are "de-registered". Fortunately, I rarely have cause to visit it myself and have yet to taste the new medicine.
Edited by jbif on 19/06/2008 at 13:43
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With the new charges then they get as much for one filling as three - so no need to rush I would think.
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I need to book a private charter coach for a party of 22 people, in the North Derbyshire/ South Yorkshire area.
Looking on Yell.com, there are several companies listed as giving nationwide coverage. Some of them are clearly a coach hire broker where you can input your details online and I assume they will check with a range of coach companies. But a fancy website is not necessarily a guarantee of quality service is it?
Does anyone have any experience of using this type of company for coach hire? Does anyone have any good or bad experiences, recommend any good companies in the aforementioned area, or offer any hints and tips on booking something like this?
Many thanks,
Rich.
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I have used Burdetts of Sheffield and Andrews of Tideswell happily several times. I used to have to book coaches for overseas tours for my last job. Wilfreda Beehive (glorious name!) of Doncaster are good, but reasonably pricey.
In accordance with name and shame policy, I would not recommend Burgins of Sheffield, and will supply details by email if required.
Get quotes from 2 or 3 of the local numbers, but if you're in this area, look out for the buses that look good. There are operators that advertise as being for hire, but essentially only run clapped out buses for school transport and the like. You should be ok with any of the 3 at the top of the post.
O
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Thanks for the info Orson. I have tried Andrews of Tideswell but not Burdetts so I will give them a ring.
Someone has decided to go by car, so the requirement for coach size could be changing, so its a bit up in the air..
The idea has now been mooted to all go by car but as its a stag do, we need to bear in mind recovery time before the return journey!
Cheers,
Rich.
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This is a long shot.
Does anyone own a CD by Girls At Our Best called "Pleasure" ???
I'm after a copy of it......first released in 1982, hence why it's a long shot.
Thanks in advance.
{subject header changed, as per the PLEASE NOTE message at the top}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 19/06/2008 at 13:45
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See:
www.vinylnet.co.uk/details.asp/id/274370/Girls-at-...l
tinyurl.com/5d65no
www.amazon.co.uk/Pleasure-Girls-At-Our-Best/dp/B00...W
991.com/Buy/ProductInformation.aspx?StockNumber=12...2
Not cheap it would seem at Amazon..:-)
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 19/06/2008 at 13:45
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Great effort Stu but vinyl's not much good to me, and I'm not paying that Amazon Marketplace price !!
Anyone got the CD ??
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Great effort Stu but vinyl's not much good to me and I'm not paying that Amazon Marketplace price !! Anyone got the CD ??
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No but someone has.
Audio CD (February 24, 2003) Original Release Date: 1981
Number of Discs: 1 Label: Vinyl Japan ASIN: B0000070HW
Track Listings
1. Getting Nowhere Fast
2. Warm Girls
3. Politics
4. It's Fashion
5. Go for Gold
6. Pleasure
7. Too Big for Your Boots
8. I'm Beautiful Now
9. Watered Babies
10. Fun-City Teenagers
11. 600, 000 Pounds
12. Heaven
13. China Blue
14. Fast Boyfriends
15. She Flipped
16. Goodbye to That Jazz
17. This Train
Now pay up? ;-)
tinyurl.com/5aucsn
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I don't have a CD version of this, just the original vinyl complete with free Goody Bag. A bit scratchy (well probably very scratchy) but I'm sure there is a way to let you have a listen to it IYKWIM. send me an email via the mods if you wish.
Cheers
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If you have "Limewire" (ftp program) its available as a "download" - select the "audio" tab, type in "pleasure" and artist name, then search, - when it comes up select it and download.
Billy
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check out ebay item 220246820923 current bid .99p, with 2 days 16 hrs remaining -plenty of time to register if your not a member -good luck.
Whats so special about this album ??
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sorry just posted about ebay, but its vinyl -sorry - i didn't read you listing correctly
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Thanks for the replies....especially Robin + Billy.
Robin.....vinyl's a no-no, but thanks for the offer
Billy......Limewire is notorious for sc*ewing up systems, so I'll leave that.
I'll keep looking round the second-hand shops and fairs...it'll crop up one day.
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The cast iron downspout at the back of my house has snapped, leaving a gap of about an inch all round. I intend to have some major building work/renovation done over the course of the next two years so I don't want to go to the expense of a new section being fitted if it is to be thrown away in a redesign soon. However, I don't want the water gushing out, hitting the oil tank and soaking my wall. So, does anyone know of any products available to help me repair it? I was thinking of some type of sleeve (like the old car exhaust repair kits that used to be available for mending a small hole.) or if that fails some industrial quantities of gutter sealant and duct tape!
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Can you fit a short, slightly larger plastic version of pipework to bridge the gap or, alternatively, wrap waterproof tape around the gap?
Even one of the fitting flanges used to fix a cast iron downspout to the wall might be wide enough.
Other idea:
www.ronfell.com/re_flexible_couplings_P3.htm
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The cast iron downspout at the back of my house
Whatever's one o'they there, then?
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>> The cast iron downspout at the back of my house Whatever's one o'they there then?
Perhaps you mean a shoe. Perhaps you mean a downpipe. Maybe you mean a running outlet, or is it a hopper head to which you allude?
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It's the vertical pipe that takes water from the gutter to the drain at ground level. Not too well up on the particular names of each separate section. Thought of using a piece of plastic drain pipe and wondered what different gauges they come in.
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As this is a motoring forum would an exhaust repair bandage fit the bill?
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Ah. The downpipe or just drainpipe. Wrap some thin sheet metal around it (or plastic from cut up 2litre bottles or similar), and hold it on with jubilee clips, or wire with the ends twisted together with pliers, or similar.
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Blu-Tack is a good temporary sealant for small gaps or cracks. You can press it (or use a roller) into thin sheets. Much easier to apply than messy mastic.
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Many thanks for the replies - I'll report back after I've had some fun with it this weekend
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Today I downloaded and installed the Nokia updates for my phone.
At the bottom right of my screen, instead of "Names", I have "O2". Names I found very useful. O2 is a waste of space, how do I change back?
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Yes....
Menu > Settings > My shortcuts > Left selection key or Right selection key
should work.
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Thanks for that VR6.
When all else fails, RTFM
Job done.
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