A lot of the advertisers on eBay give dimensions.
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Is there no room anywhere for a bracket to hold the microwave - like one for a tv? Maybe above the work surface you have identified?
On the baked potatoes - boil your spud with skin on for 15-20 minutes then bake for short period to dry out.
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PG,
Caravan shops are a good source of small kitchen equipment.
When I looked for the IIH static, the microwaves were about the same size as the smallest ones in Argos/Currys etc.
Still worth a try, there could be something out there I didn't see.
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>>the builders assumed that no actual cooking would take place in the kitchen>>
So what's the kitchen for then? ..:-)
You can plonk a microwave down virtually anywhere where there's a convenient mains socket.
As for models themselves, I bought a stainless steel De Longhi 850w microwave for £35 at Argos just before Christmas (reduced to half price); the same model, but rebadged as a Tesco, is still on sale at the supermarket at £79 (occasionally reduced to £59)...:-)
Although it was cheap, the De Longhi still has digital timing control of cooking, convection heating and auto cook/defrosting. It's much better than the manual knobs on cheap microwaves. My model is about 50 per cent wider than a dinner plate and takes up little room.
This is pretty similar, but £45: tinyurl.com/6pbnvx
Edited by Stuartli on 19/04/2008 at 13:58
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I hadn't thought of putting it up on the wall. There is potentially a place I could do that. Thank you!
>Convenient mains socket.
And there is the problem. There are four on the worktop, but they already have toaster, kettle, blender and grill plugged into them. The only other socket is right next to the sink, which I think is a pretty silly place to put something electric, but if the applicance was mounted up on the wall, that would be less of an issue I guess.
www.johnlewis.com/230479383/Product.aspx is the smallest I can find so far. But, ooh, it is UGLY!!
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that does look a bit errr challenged?
A couple of possibles for extra sockets - 1st fits under units, 2nd pops up out of worktop. similar things also available but these are the first I found on google looking for them.
tlc are a good supplier
www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories...l
www.cedecor.co.uk/cheshire_electrical_decor/3462/m...9
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PG - I have a minimally small kitchen and have got my microwave (large) into a corner, on top of my front opening deep freeze and under the wall mounted combi boiler. It looks as though the wall mounting option may be the way to go. Might you not find a combi fan oven/microwave useful? Really good for heating meals for one, bits of fish small meat joints etc.
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 19/04/2008 at 14:47
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maybe a lateral thought (at least as a stop gap)?
Try putting Polopuss' food in a freezer bag in a dish of warm/hot water from the tap for a minute or two, before giving it to him.
Somebody will give me the real stat but I think water conducts heat hundreds of time quicker than air. This is why, although we have a microwave, we never use it for thawing food out.
Putting a steak or somesuch into bag and then into a bowl of barely tepid water thaws it in a jiffy and doesn't cook it at the edges like microwaves do when thawing.
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There are four on the worktop, but they already have toaster, kettle, blender and grill plugged into them. >>
Just plug an four or six way extension socket into one of them - we've done this with one of our double mains output kitchen sockets and it was on the recommendation of the Fire Brigade, who don't like the two or three-way adapters (the local FB fit smoke alarms free of charge and check for fire safety).
Fitting a microwave on a wall is fine. Just make sure that if it has rear ventilation slots that there is sufficient air space behind it.
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be careful if using 6 way extension leads with electric kettles especially it uses a lot of current and should have a socket to itself.
Edited by maltrap on 19/04/2008 at 20:06
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>>be careful if using 6 way extension leads with electric kettles >>
I don't follow that argument, other than if all the other five sockets were in use..:-)
The kettle (our own is 2000w) is already being used with a mains socket apparently ("...toaster, blender, kettle and grill").
One of the least used items would give up its dedicated socket...:-)
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>>>>be careful if using 6 way extension leads with electric kettles
>>I don't follow that argument, other than if all the other five sockets were in use..:-)
Some extension leads have thin cables that are not rated to take high loads like an electric kettle. My kettle is rated at 2700W - 3100W but obviously is not drawing that amount of power continuously.
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A quality extension lead will be rated to a maximum of 13amps.
Edited by Stuartli on 19/04/2008 at 22:56
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Is it so hard for appliance to share a socket? My toaster and kettle do ie: when I want toast, I plug in the toaster, when i want hot water, swap plugs. Or are your lives so fast moving that tea and toast have to be made at the same time ;}
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Thanks all - I had a tidy up of my worktops and found a slot for a Microwave, a very cheap, small, Goodmans one (ooh, there's almost a motoring link), but for what I want it for it's ideal.
For those of you who suggested socket adaptors and things like that - I have a fear of them since seeing one catch fire at university when it was overloaded, and in addition, my dad told me things that generate heat should never share sockets.
Oh and yes, I do like to operate the toaster and kettle at the same time in the morning - my duvet time in precious! :)
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>>,, my dad told me things that generate heat should never share sockets. >>
Yet, in our case, that's the very thing that the Fire Brigade recommended instead of using a two or three way mains adapter.
I've also had a six way extension powering all my computer setup as well for several years...:-)
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I've also had a six way extension powering all my computer setup
He said heat though, not hot air....:o}
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>>For those of you who suggested socket adaptors and things like that -
>>I have a fear of them since seeing one catch fire at university when it was overloaded,and in addition, my dad told me things that generate heat should never share sockets.
IMO I would not use the old fasioned adaptors ( those cube shaped with sockets on the faces) The weight of plugs and cables can sometimes cause the adaptor to partially come out of the socket and cause a poor connection that may lead cause over heating. So I would tend to side with your dad.
On one occasion many years ago, One such adaptor just saved a house catching fire.
There was just one electric fire pugged in but the fuse holder in its plug was loose.
This caused heating that charred the plug, right through the adaptor and started on the skirting board. The spacing that the adaptor offered saved the situation.
This must be a very rare situation.
I am with Stuartli
>>....Yet, in our case, that's the very thing that the Fire Brigade recommended instead of using a two or three way mains adapter.
We both agree. Get a quality short cable 13Amp extention lead.
>>I've also had a six way extension powering all my computer setup as well for several years...:-)
Exactly why they are readily found, but the current, as you are aware is tiny compared with a kettle.
A simple test. If the plug is hot then switch off the power and investigate.
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Advice from our local Fire Safety People.
The maximuim amperage to a domestic socket is 13 AMPS
If you're doubling up use a trailing extension and the appliances connected shouldn't exceed 13 amps when added up.
Fuse ratings
Fuse size Typical appliances
3 Amp For most appliances up to 720 watts (W):
radios, table lamps, soldering irons, televisions
5 Amp For most appliances rated between 720 watts (W) and 1200 watts (W):
small microwave ovens, some DIY electric power tools, small cooking
appliances, electric blankets, audio and hi-fi, slow cookers, home
computers, curling tongs and rollers
13 Amp For appliances rated over 1200 watts (W):
irons, kettles, fan heaters, electric fires, lawn mowers, toasters, deep
fat fryers, refrigerators, washing machines, tumble dryers, spin dryers,
vacuum cleaners, dishwashers.
The above was nicked from West Yorkshire Fire Service.
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If you're doubling up use a trailing extension and the appliances connected shouldn't exceed 13 amps when added up.
Use a fused converter, or spur. Both available at your local DIY retailer.
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