***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 229 *****
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PCs. Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details -
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 228. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found :-HERE
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 28/03/2008 at 18:58
|
Thanks :-( A credit to Sony though. Guess it'll be relegated to Garage duties.>>
It's not difficult to check the drive belt if you can remove the underside of the drive - mostly the various case parts click together.
I have a Philips model dating back to 1988 which is still in perfect working order - they were built properly in those days as the famous Philips 104 of early CD player days proved.
|
Re: drive belt. I tried getting a replacement belt for my Sony CD player (mid 1980's model) as the original one had stretched. It was the belt that opens and shuts the cd drawer, not the one that spins the CD. I spent a long time trying to find a replacement, but they were either too short or too long. In the end I cut out approx ½ inch of the belt and superglued it back together. Lasted for well over 5 years before I had to do the same again with another belt I had kicking around from my days of repairing video recorders and having belts left over from ordered belt kits that had more parts in than were actually needed ;o)
Cd player, and rest of hi-fi still working well.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 24/03/2008 at 14:04
|
|
PU, what is the model number? I had success recently with replacing the laser transport unit (£21) in my 1995 Technics Cd-player hi-fi separate but since then I have struggled to fully repair a friend's JVC 3-disc CD changer/ radio/ cass all-in-one. (The biggest problem for me on this JVC is lack of space under the cover to troubleshoot).
Edited by Billy Whizz on 24/03/2008 at 22:16
|
|
I can't find anything useful on it. Is it a portable? If so, I reckon it is an economic write-off. Does it have a AUX IN socket? If so you could rig up another CD player e.g. old discman. I got a Philips AZ3067 portable for my youngest and she's v pleased with it. Not sure if it would compare with a quality Sony though.
Edited by Billy Whizz on 24/03/2008 at 23:51
|
|
|
|
Our whole area has been "spammed" with yellow leaflets, this time they've actually put them on cars even on driveways! Cars parked up have had them put on, so you can imagine the footpaths and gutters are now littered with yellow paper. I have seen some neighbours taking photos of them on their car before removing them.
Lucky I was out, but what's the story on this? Can anyone "do" them for anything?? Is it legal?
Cheers all.
Jim
Edited by Pugugly on 24/03/2008 at 12:35
|
|
Is the question about the littering or about placing them on cars ?
|
|
Placing on cars on driveways.
|
What's the problem? I deal with these situations like this:-
1. Examine leaflet - remove from windscreen if necessary to examine more closely.
2. Make executive decision:-
A. This is junk - discard in appropriate receptacle.
B. How interesting! I must contact this organisation.
3. Job done.
|
Alternative action
Gather all similar items of unwanted junk and post them in any reply paid envelope which you may have also received as part of a junk promotion. They have to pay to get the stuff, even if it isn't theirs - a result!
Edited by Armitage Shanks {p} on 24/03/2008 at 13:03
|
|
AS we do similar, i always return junk mail in the pre paid envelope, havent used the envelope as a general rubbish bin, but its not a bad idea.
|
|
what about Post Office generated junk mail? I `know` someone who puts it all back in their own postboxes ;)
Edited by oilrag on 24/03/2008 at 14:05
|
|
Marking junk mail 'not known - pls return to sender' and then putting it in the post box has worked well for me.
|
|
If I get some junk mail through the post am I legally entitled to know where the sender got my name and address from?
|
You can write to the data controller of the company concerned and they are obliged to tell you where they had the information from.
Meanwhile, the OP did ask a specific question about the placing of leaflets on the car.
|
Most of the junk mail received via our postman doesn't have any name or address on it - the PO gets paid for delivering it.
|
|
If I receive unwanted junk mail through the post which contains a reply paid envelope, can I wrap up a brick, sellotape the reply paid envelope to the outside of the parcel and hand it in at the Post Office as a reply paid parcel?
|
|
Back to the original question ! or this one's off to IHAQ !
|
You can stop "mail-drop" junk mail -- delivered by the Royal Mail without your name or address on it -- via:
www.mpsonline.org.uk/mpsr/
for addressed mail
plus for the evil unaddressed mail:
Opt-Outs
Royal Mail
Kingsmead House
Oxpens Road
Oxford, OX1 1RX
My postlady mistakenly pushed junk mail through my door the other morning. She rang the bell because there was a next-door addressed item amongst it, and she had a whole armful of the stuff. They are obliged to deliver it unless you formally opt out, i.e. there's no point in asking the postman to stop delivery.
|
|
|
|
Leaflets on my car usually end up on the floor of the car park with the rest of them.
|
|
Its an offence under the Environmental Protection Act to hand out leaflets or stick them to cars without permission - it increases litter, as mfarrow has proved. Send a copy of the leaflet to the Council asking them to take action against the company the leaflet is promoting.
|
"Send a copy of the leaflet to the Council "
Good advice. The last leaflet I was involved with (and which I posted on a few cars as well as through doors) was to encourage people to write to our council to stop them from closing our village schools!
|
|
|
|
|
My parents in law a few weeks back lost some channels on their Sky sat receiver. The channels include BBC News 24, BBC Parliament and TCM.
Now through some digging I know the Beeb has moved the two BBC channels above from Astra 2D to Astra 2A with dual broadcasting for a while. Not sure about TCM. Since all other channels seems okay and Astra satellites 2A and 2D are close by I think we can rule out the dish being misaligned. And the other Sky channels are on 2A so that seems to rule out the LNB (?).
I don't have satellite myself but I am thinking the EPG has not switched these channels to their new frequencies/satellite. Should I therefore try this manually and how is it best done. I don't want to leave them with no channels. One option seems to be to disconnect the satellite feed, scan for channels (none found) and repeat with it reconnected. Or can I edit the EPG entries manually?
I think their box is a Grundig one but aren't they all essentially the same operationally and the method will be the same.
Ta.
|
rtj70,
Disconnecting the power to the satellite box, leaving for 30 seconds and then plugging back in usually resets the channels.
|
|
I was going to try that Dynamic Dave but since the parents in law always switch things off at the mains and were away this weekend.... might be more to it. Then again I cringe when I see the wiring behind their TV - double adapter into each socket!
|
Disconnecting the power did not work. Connections all seem okay. Even resorted to telephoning Sky and we tried a few things. It seems the frequency on which the BBC News24 is broadcast and also the TCM one too are not being picked up. TCM used to work and I know the BBC channels were moved from Astra 2D to 2A.
We proved it's a frequency problem because we tried other channels in that frequency range and the same problem.
Now I understand that they may never have received the frequency where News24 now sits, but they used to get TCM.
It looks like an engineer visit because I suspect it might not be the box and could be the dish - something I cannot test. But an official Sky engineer is £65. What would backroomers do?
|
I suspect it might not be the box and could be the dish - something I cannot test.
Is it a Sky+ system? If so, in the menu (services button, then 4, then 6) gives you two signal strength meters. When I had problems I used these to re-allign the dish rather than calling an engineer out.
|
could be a failing lnb?
I'd get a ladder out and get up to the dish and tweak it.
|
|
|
It is a Sky box and the signal strength for both bars is about 60-70%. All other channels are fine except this problem of missing out some frequencies.
The problem with how the dish has been located is it's above the roof of the garage so not so easy to get to it. If it was misaligned (e.g. weather related) would it get the other channels off Astra 2A and 2D?
|
But an official Sky engineer is £65. What would backroomers do?
This is what I would try: Phone Sky and tell them you are cancelling your sub. They will transfer you to "retentions" who will ask what they can do to keep your custom. tell them of the problem and ask for a free engineer visit plus upgrade to sky+.
You don't get if you don't ask!
|
|
jbif good suggestion - the box is a bit old (a Grundig) so maybe a new box would be nice. It's the parents in-law's Sky and not mine though so I'd have to get them to phone up and they are easily duped to pay over the odds.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Currently the cost for a second class letter is 24p and for first class 34p.
Increased prices take effect on 1st April.
Please can someone tell me what the new charges will be?
TIA
|
|
No idea but it sounds like we need to go out and buy lots of stamps. My local post office recently asked how many 1st class stamp I wanted. 6, 12, or 500! Some people apparently buy 500 to avoid the cost of increases!
|
No idea, but a quick google came up with this:
Royal Mail asks for stamp price increase27 Feb 2007 ... Royal Mail wants to increase stamp prices by 6p, to 38p for a first class stamp and 29p for a second class stamp. The price increase is the ...
www.financemarkets.co.uk/2007/02/27/royal-mail-ask...n
crease/
- 26k -
|
|
|
|
Please can someone tell me what the new charges will be?
ftp://ftp.royalmail.com/Downloads/public/ctf/rm/2008_2009_Prices_docum
ent_for_publication_final.pdf
The 1st Class Letter price will increase to 36p for stamp and 34p for meter.
The 2nd Class Letter price will increase to 27p for stamp and 24p for meter.
|
Do the Post Office sell stamps with 1st and 2nd on them - not the price in pence - to hide the price/any increase?
|
"Do the Post Office sell stamps with 1st and 2nd on them"
Yes they do for this reason. I found some old xmas first class stamps and my local post office confirm they are still valid.
So buying now before the price increases might save a little. Personally I'll not lose sleep over a few pence per envelope posted.
|
1st & 2nd with no prices
Stops the problem of reprnting millions of stamps whne the price goes up. You just charge more for the same poor service.
Motoring link?
(Some) garages just charge more for the same poor service.
|
1st & 2nd with no prices
>>the same with the larger stamp for larger letters.
|
|
|
>>Motoring link?>>
Second paragraph of introduction to I Have a Question threads:
"It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be."
|
|
|
1st & 2nd with no prices Stops the problem of reprnting millions of stamps whne the price goes up.
It also helps the consumer, otherwise I'd have to go out and buy a 2p stamps to put on the envelope every time I send a letter until my book runs out.
Stamps are a good investment.
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have 3 doors in my lounge which all need painting white with gloss. The doors are already painted white in gloss, but have yellowed slightly.
I have been on a few DIY sites and am slightly confused.
Do I need to lightly sand the old paint then paint over with gloss, or do I just apply undercoat and gloss over the exisitng paint?
|
|
I'd personally paint over with one coat of white gloss. You don't need undercoat as it's not onto unpainted wood. Should be a quick and easy paint job. Would not sand either.
|
Would not sand either.
Whereas I would.
1, to provide a key for the fresh paint.
2, to remove any contaminants (eg, finger grease, oxidisation) that have accumilated over the years on the old paint.
As pointed out though, you shouldn't need undercoat unless any bare wood is showing from knocks, scrapes, etc. I actually cheat by touching those in with tippex as it dries in seconds, and then feather it in with a light sanding before applying the gloss.
|
|
Definitely sand to get a good key. I'd still undercoat though, it's very quick to do and you'll get a better finish. plus it gets into all the nooks and crannies where it's difficult to sand properly and if you're like me and hate sanding, you'll probably skimp it a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
Go over it with a soft abrasive block and sugar soap, clean down thoroughly, go over it with gloss only (if it's in good condition).
|
If you want a professional looking job you will need to use sandpaper, undercoat and gloss. Some also wash down with sugar soap before sanding, but I would only do this if surfaces were particularly grubby or greasy.
Painting without sandpapering is a false economy. Surfaces will chip very easily and you may have to burn the paint off next time around.
Use a ?one coat? type gloss and undercoat for a really good result.
Clk Sec
|
If you're like me then it goes something like this:
Rub down well with 120 grit paper to remove all the old paint runs / brush marks left by the previous imbecile. Fill and sand all the scratches left by said previous imebecile's dog. Carefully paint with good quality undercoat. Sand with 240 grit paper. Carefully paint with quality gloss paint and decent brush (don't use any of this low VOC muck - you just can't finish it well). Allow to harden for a week or so, then rub the whole lot down with 400 grade wet and dry, used wet. Wash, and clean with white spirit. Now paint the door again with the quality gloss. You should be left with a door with a really nice high gloss wet-look finish, that will stand the test of time - some of mine were last painted 5 years ago, and still look fresh (although a little yellow against new paint).
Of course, I could just be anal about paint work....!!
|
|
|
|
As I've got 3 doors and not a lot of time, I am going to go for the middle ground and give them a light sand and then straight on with the gloss. Thanks for the advice.
|
|
|
I would:-
1. Use sugar soap to remove the hidden deposits
2. Gently use a window scraper ( the type with a Stanley blade) to remove all the nibs.
I use it by gently resting both the blade and the handle on the surface so as not to cut into the surface.
www.drapertools-online.com/b2c/b2citmdsp.pgm?pp_sk...l
3. Gentle sanding and then wipe off the dust
4. Apply undercoat
5. Another very gentle sanding and wipe off the dust
6. Using a new one of those new synthetic brushes, apply top coat. (in good light)
The better the finish required then repeat 4. and more of 5. with fine sandpaper
I am in the RichardW end of the approaches.
|
|
|
Painting without sandpapering is a false economy. Surfaces will chip very easily and you may have to burn the paint off next time around.
A soft abrasive block is a good half-way house - it de-nibs and keys, is far better than nothing - respectable even - but isn't as good as a "proper" job.
Use a ?one coat? type gloss and undercoat for a really good result.
I hate this stuff - it's basically thickened gloss, and like others of its ilk strictly "easy DIY/beginner" only. You will get a much better finish using a "trade" gloss quickly applied with a roller, and then layed off with a wet brush.
YMMV, of course.
|
>>easy DIY/beginner" only.
That?s exactly why I suggested it for the OP.
Clk Sec
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm thinking about buying a dSLR.
Entry level models like the Nikon D40, Cannon 400, Olympus e410 all look as if they will do a good job.
Any particular reasons why one brand may be better than another?
I've seen the Olympus E-510 with twin lens kit (14-42 & 40-150) for £450 which looks to be a heck of a bargain (getting Image stabilisation over the E410). Any thoughts ?
|
PCPro recomended a Sony last year, their reviews are fairly reliable.
www.pcpro.co.uk/labs/117804/sony-dslra100.html
What do you need one for - pro? semi-pro? very enthusiastic? The photos from my 2 meg camera phone look pretty impressive (except the composition, light balance, colours and everything that I can control!) and it was free with the phone!
|
hxj asks some sensible questions but a phone is for snaps only. I guess if you're looking for Pro or Semi Pro you would n't be looking at an entry level DSLR.
You probably need to think about the availability of compatable lenses etc. This is possibly where the Sony loses a bit of ground on the Pentax, Olympus or Nikon, although Minolta AF lenses will fit.
Personally, I'm delighted with my Canon 400D.
|
I'd say I just want to take some decent pics - say enthusiast?
I've had various point and shoot cameras but I'm not happy with the picture quality, so I'm looking at a step up that will take better pictures and give me more control over the images but still be usable for day to day stuff. I've considered the 'bridge' cameras but I think I'll get more out of a dslr.
So the question for me is which is going to give me the most useful features at a 'reasonable' price.
I've read bits on some photo forums but there seems to be the usual 'religious' divides. In the same way that the answer may always be mondeo tdci or bmw530 ;-) people recommend what they have but its difficult to get much of a feel for why one is better than another - and it may well be that there is so little in it that it is about personal preference.
Could I ask why you went with the canon rather than any other?
Edited by adverse camber on 25/03/2008 at 10:48
|
>>Could I ask why you went with the canon rather than any other?>>
Could be because of having a Canon lens or lenses already; even the regular Canon cash back offers (see: tinyurl.com/2q26ay for cash back examples and good prices).
One of the most respected on-line digital camera reviews websites is:
www.steves-digicams.com/
|
Agree about Steves digicams. He's usually more digestible than DPreview, which is about the most in-depth site. This is useful, though...
www.dpreview.com/reviews/stats.asp
It's worth considering a pocket camera, too, IMHO. They're getting very good, e.g. the Panasonic TZ3 has a 10x zoom, starting at a fairly wide-angle 28mm. You'd need a big chunk of glass to do that with an SLR, and the camera you've got with you takes the best pics!
Edited by J Bonington Jagworth on 26/03/2008 at 12:00
|
|
|
|
Agree re Mondeo/BMW analogy!
I had always used Minolta SLRs and been very happy with them. But they merged into Konica and then Sony. Being a loyal chap and having a number of compatible lenses, I was tempted by the Sony but wondered if Sony's entry into the market may not be sustained over a period of time. Personally I like to get a piece of kit that I can add to as my budget allows,
I did n't like the feel of the Pentax and the Olympus was too small. This left the Nikon and the Canon. It was a toss up really but the D40 spec was n't as good as the Canon 400D (although below budget) and the next Nikon (D60?) up was above my budget. Hence the Canon......
Really, any of the cameras will do a good job for you and it comes down to personal preference. I suggest you spend some time handling a few and making the choice from there. If you have a John Lewis near you, they are very good at discussing the features. You can always then shop online for the keenest prices.
|
Short on John Lewis's round here. I'm planning to go into York this week and look in a couple of shops to handle them. Its always nice to have a bit of advance knowledge of what the pros and cons of different brands might be.
I did get given an old canon AE-1P SLR a while ago, but I've found that the lack of any immediate feedback on the results and the cost of film&processing is rather limiting. Although I think that the results that I've got from it are quite good, I think I'll do a lot better when I can get immediate feedback on things.
I've found this site which seems to offer links to good prices.
www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/index.html
|
I've found this site which seems to offer links to good prices.
www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/index.html -
That's an excellent comparison site, & shows that you can buy a Nikon D40 + 18-55 lens and add a 55-200 VR lens for £419. That's what I've got and would recommend.
The Olympus kit looks terrific, though. A little smaller even than the Nikon, I think (- or is the 410 the smaller one?). And has anti-dust technology - though some doubt the efficacy of those systems; anyway it's a non-problem IMO. Bear in mind that Olympus has the 4:3 shape sensor, not the standard 3:2; you might have a preference there.
Just like cars - I'm sure you'll be happy whichever you choose...
|
|
|
a
why not buy this week's (out Thursday) Amateur Photographer? www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/
I think this is covering the ground you're interested in. Also take a look at reviews on www.dpreview.com/
and remember that both Canon & Nikon have just brought out new models so there are some very good prices to be had on the outgoing models.
JH
|
|
And you did not read what was said above/already? I also said (as I always do for camera stuff) to check out dpreview and with new Nikon/Canon dSLRs bargains might be possible. ;-) Others have pointed out the new Canon 450D is apparently SD only which personally would be a negative (lots of memory cards).
|
cor blimey r, it's a long thread and I missed the dpreview reference. I made no mention of card technology, which with card prices being what they are is a red herring if you're spending £350 - £400 or upwards on a DSLR. So I think you'll see that it's possible to miss something, after all you just did it.
Would you like to pull me to bits for pointing that there is a review of 3 cameras which may be of interest in Amateur Photographer this week or will you let me off with a warning on that one?
Take it easy r, it's only a thread, we're all trying to help and if some of your prose went straight by me then I apologise but I don't think there's any need to jump down my throat.
JH
|
Thanks for that - I'll pop into whsmiths on thursday.
I've found dpreview quite an interesting read.
|
|
|
|
|
|
A colleague has just bought a 400D and is delighted with it apart from a tendancy to under-expose, which he still hasn't tweaked out. According to Wikipedia the 350D underexposed.
You may then want to look at the 450D (which I'm hoping will have the exposure problem sorted). I think it's too new to have any reviews at the moment but it looks like a cracking camera with a larger LCD screen and 'live' preview for the first time. But it's also swapped out the CF for SD to save space.
|
|
Has he tried compensating this underexposure using the EV setting from the camera menu?
|
I totally agree about getting some hands on - I didn't like the feel of the Canon when I was looking into this in December 2006. I personally went for the Sony Alpha 100 but that's been replaced by the A200 I think.
Reasons for going with the Sony were because I liked the feel, the UI, it had anti-shake built into the camera (not as good as in a lense but that was a lot more expensive). But would I make the same choice now? I'm not sure. I know I would discount the Canon but the new Nokon D60 comes with a kit lens with in-built vibration reduction.
Before going to any stores (e.g. Jessops) then I'd take a look at the in-depth reviews on the Digital Photography website (www.dpreview.com).
|
|
And don't forget with the new Nikon D60 and Canon 450D coming out you might get a bargain on the older models ;-)
|
|
|
|
Has he tried compensating this underexposure using the EV setting from the camera menu?
I don't know but he really shouldn't need to do this.
|
"But it's also swapped out the CF for SD to save space. "
So for me no CF card is a no-no. Thankfully the Sony a100 had a CF card. I benefit from serial ATA on the PC etc. so not against parallel vs serial connectivity. But the CF card format is more than the mini ATA connector. It's physically bigger so larger memory tends to be a lot cheaper ;-)
Edited by rtj70 on 25/03/2008 at 18:38
|
With fast Secure Digital cards from around £4 or less per GB at present and taking up very little space in a camera, seems a bit pointless to use CD.
My six-year-old Minolta E203 uses Secure Digital and MMC cards - I use them for photographic purposes and for computer data transfers via a memory card reader/writer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have just rediscovered this phone in our loft. It is in very good condition as we moved overseas shortly after buying it (where we couldn't use it) and it has been in storage ever since 1997. Obviously I would expect the battery to be duff...
Is there any point putting it up on ebay? Do you think there is anyone still using this phone? Is there anyone who might possibly want it? I very much doubt it myself.
What do you think?
|
"What do you think? "
I've just spent the last 4 days re-insulating and boarding the loft. The old junk up there defies belief ..........
so it's a few trips to the tip. Would you like me to take your phone????? ;-)
|
However, I'm in 2 minds about the old Atari computer and box of games the kids played about 20 (?) years ago! Might resurrect it!!
|
Old Atari computer - that takes me back :-)
Which one is it?
|
"Which one is it?"
ST1040 - with a huge external floppy disc drive!
|
|
|
|
|
Loads of Atari stuff selling on ebay! No Freestyle 50 stuff though!
|
Still got an Oric (with proper keyboard after original was replaced) dating back to around 1980.
Unfortunately the other half did her usual trick when getting rid of "rubbish" in throwing away the games cassettes, including one that cured a computer related problem.....
|
Still got an Oric (with proper keyboard after original was replaced) dating back to around 1980.
An Oric Atmos (or was that a later one)?! Blimey not heard of one of those for years! Was going to say my uncle bought one, but now ISTR he had an Acorn Electron.
Some years ago I regretted selling my Spectrum 48k and fancied playing one of the games for old times sake.. But then found an emulator to play it on the PC - took 2 seconds to load instead of 6 minutes with the tape player blaring out its "machine code"!
;o)
|
If I remember correctly the Oric in trying to be different came with Forth instead of BASIC ;-) A lot different to program but more efficient to interpret.
Back to the original subject though. I got rid of an analogue phone I had because the quality of the call was so poor. Switched to DECT and much much better. But when I first got the cordless phone DECT ones were very expensive.
|
|
|
|
|
|
i'm still using what is probably its answerphone companion, a BT Response 50.
I bought it in the early 1970s (IIRC) and it was secondhand then; £25 from Cash Converters in Preston...:-)
|
|
|
|
Just as a follow on to the above where I asked for advice on a product that had been given to one of our Charity shops. Thanks to the advice and guidance given on here I put it on ebay and they sold for £127 !!
So once again, many thanks to all who offered advice. Hopefully I will be on within the next week or so with your next "what is it?"
|
|
|
Been out today tidying up the garden.
6ft high picket fence about 10ft long with a standard gate in the middle is in a interesting state of rot, probably terminal.
Anyone know a good supplier of such hardwood fencing in the leicestershire or nottinghamshire areas?
Or an alternative?
|
Few here! - aint Google great! ;-)
tinyurl.com/2wr5p4
Billy
|
|
|
|
I am currently on my third Hard Disk DVD Recorder. My first, a Daewoo had a fan that sounded like a Helicopter taking off. My second, a Philips, the picture kept freezing then restarting. Swapped it for the same model but it is doing likewise.
Will get my money refunded which will be about £160 and don't want to spend any more than that on its replacement.
Argos have a couple of Wharfedale units but have only ever heard good things about their speakers, don't know anything about their electronics. My previous experience with Argos is if anything goes wrong I will be able to get money back without any hassle. I want the DVD Recorder as opposed to PVR as I like to download good matches, films onto disc.
Now I know at this end of the market you get what you pay for but anyone any good / bad experiences of Wharfedale?
[Incidentally, tried my local RicherSounds as they sometimes have good deals, he advised me that they had to return 2 full batches of Philips HDD DVD Recorders and in his opinion, HDD DVD Recorders in general are probably the least reliable physical product on the market!]
|
"Argos have a couple of Wharfedale units but have only ever heard good things about their speakers, don't know anything about their electronics."
Sorry to disillusion you, but Wharfedale are just a brand name now - like Alba, Bush, Fidelity, Goodmans, etc. Doesn't mean it's junk, just that the provenance/quality control is hard to gauge. It's not necessarily any worse than 'bigger' names, and will almost certainly be cheaper!
You might find more info here:
www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/
|
My best mate sold plenty of Wharfedale TVs and white goods at his independent audio/visual/appliances retail outlet until his retirement - he wouldn't have done so if they were not up to the required standard.
|
|
I'd bite the bullet and stretch to £250 for a Sony.
|
For your £160 price point, you won't get any better than the Humax PVR 9200T I've mentioned in an earlier thread (the T stands for Twin Tuner, Freeview). See:
www.humaxdigital.co.uk/global/products/pvr-9200t.a...p
|
...or for £80 from a bankrupt stock buyout, a Wharfedale(!) DVD recorder with a minimum three month warranty from the excellent BigPockets online retailer...:
tinyurl.com/39mexf
Edited by Stuartli on 28/03/2008 at 15:40
|
|
|
|
Continued and report back from IHAQ 227.
I tried all manner of adhesive tapes (including some that claimed to be waterproof, such as Gaffer Tape) to cover the crack as a temporary measure and they all just floated off the bath surface when covered in warm water. In the end I found that Blu-Tack did the trick. I just cut a piece (5 mm bigger than the crack in all directions) off a new sheet and pressed it gently but firmly over the 46 mm long crack. We've since had several baths and it's still in place. Also it was heartening to read on the packaging that adhesion increases with time. With the leak the supporting board under the bath was starting to deteriorate but I think the Blu-Tack should at least stop further deterioration.
|
|
|
|
Why do people refer to "personalised" number plates as "private"? Is it an americanism?
|
I believe in the US they are often called "vanity plates", I dont know where the term "private plate" originates?
IMO for many of them the meaning/relevance of the plate must only be known to the owner and their friends, and is therefore "private". (Bit too literal an interpretation?!).
Many years ago there was a Porsche locally to us with the plate "SET 2 ON"... Set 2 on what? Set 2 of what on?
I used to see a succession of Volvos with a plate "BARIOT" which baffled me for years but I now realise it could be a surname..
;o)
|
G 2 POT I see regularly that amuses.
|
|
|
Decades ago before number plate transfer was big business, you generally got the number you were given! - unless you were rich, famous, or had loads of "reddies" when you "could" sometimes buy a "personalised" one privately.
Billy
|
|
|
|
|
