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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 10/03/2008 at 19:29
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Just helping a mate do up an old house and we have started on the bathroom. The original tiles were terrible so he removed them and, unfortunately, most of the old plaster on one of the walls right down to the bricks. Being on a very tight budget we are looking for a cheap way of re-tiling this wall. Now we could re-plaster and then re-tile but plasterers up here cost rather a lot of cash so the question is can we just plasterboard the wall, seal it with PVA and then tile straight onto the plasterboard?
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Not recommended to use plasterboard, but this basic method is reasonable if you use a waterproof marine plywood instead of the plasterboard. I know the builders I use will do this if they are using timber studding to make a partition with the plumbing inside the cavity.
The reason not to use plasterboard is that if it becomes wet it will simply collapse over time.
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Isn't there some stuff similar to plasterboard called "cement board" or something which is "waterproof" - or at least not as susceptible to damp as plasterboard? Might be worth a google.
Plasterboard probably OK for most bathrooms if it isn't in shower area and unlikely to get soaked?????.
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www.telegraph.co.uk/property/main.jhtml?xml=/prope...l
Knauf's aquapanel is apparently the stuff. Haven't tried it myself - see link.
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DIY. So, plasterers cost cash. You, though, don't need a perfect finish, 'cos you're tiling it. Nail thin (1/2" or 1") battens every 3' to the wall, fill in alternate bays with 1:1:6 render, in two layers if 1", use a straight edge (4x1 board) to level. Let the render go off, and then fill in the remaining bays. Cost? A fiver for a bag of lime, less for a bag of cement, a few quid for (sharp) sand, and a durable finish ideal for going straight onto with tile adhesive which will get over any imperfections. Literally as solid as a rock! DIY books (a tenner) explain in detail, & the job's easy. Plasterboard is OK if you only want to tile onto it and then sit and look at the job. Cement boards, etc., are better, but at more work than rendering.
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DIY. So plasterers cost cash. You though don't need a perfect finish 'cos you're tiling it. Nail thin (1/2" or 1") battens every 3' to the wall fill in alternate bays with 1:1:6 render in two layers if 1" use a straight edge (4x1 board) to level. Let the render go off and then fill in the remaining bays. Cost? A fiver for a bag of lime less for a bag of cement a few quid for (sharp) sand and a durable finish ideal for going straight onto with tile adhesive which will get over any imperfections. Literally as solid as a rock! DIY books (a tenner) explain in detail & the job's easy. Plasterboard is OK if you only want to tile onto it and then sit and look at the job. Cement boards etc. are better but at more work than rendering.
IGNORE all of the tripe above. Sorry FT, but if you really don't know then don't go there.
Firstly, IF the old tiles were sound then tiling on tile is a perfectly acceptable way of proceeding, except possibly where you may 'come' out' further from the wall than is suitable, i.e. the margin over the bath edge. Tile on tile stick like s aich 1 t to an old Army blanket!! (PUG, leave me alone!)
The other method is to use a cement based board like 'hardibacker' which can be stuck to the wall using the correct adhesive, but I would ALWAYS use mechanical fixings as well. This can then be tiled directly on to. Please please please DO NOT use cheap tile adhesive or grout. I have always used BAL products and Bal 'grip' is the one for Bathrooms and wet areas and in fact we use it everywhere. Also use 'microban' grout.
NOTE: Don't try sticking hardibacker or anything else for that matter to loose or friable surfaces. If in doubt ask. NOTHING sticks to dust!!
If you do post and seek a view I am quite busy at the moment losing money on e-bay! Can't be clever at everything...........Doh!
Regards as always.................MD
PS. No connection (pardon the pun) with BAL
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Sorry FT but if you really don't know then don't go there.
That's OK. It's easy when you know how. I should just keep to the books if I were you, but don't run down good information from someone who has done the job at least a few times, with their own hands, not just "watching".
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PS. No connection (pardon the pun) with BAL
Oh. BAL is OK. Do you work for Ocks, by any chance?
VBG, if needed.
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Hi Geoff, you should have left the old tiles on and tiles over them. If they were fixed correctly they porvide the perfect substrate. Tile adhesive takes longer to dry though. As it is you can fix a plasterboard direct to brickwork with bonding compound. Bonding is a white powder adhesive mixed with water, follow instructions on the bag. Seal the plasterboard well with a couple of coats of PVA, tile and grout properly. As long as this is not exposed to direct water i.e. a shower cubicle or around a bath then it will be fine. In my experience though a handy man always finds this kind of work difficult and never really achieves a good finish. Tiles are on for a long time and you have to look at them everyday so the finish is vital. Bite the bullet and get a pro. A plasterer will also do good tiling job. Best of. Concrete.
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>Seal the plasterboard well with a couple of coats of PVA tile and grout properly. Aslong as this is not exposed to direct water i.e. a shower cubicle or around a bath then it will be fine.
Never EVER use PVA in this situation. It can re-emulsifiy if it gets moist and bingo, it can let go. Plasterboard DOES NOT need sealing prior to tiling. Hardi-backer is the only sensible way to go in this situation and it is more cost effective than using a plasterer. There is no guarantee that a Plasterer will make a good job of tiling. A decent tiling job is all in the setting out so as to minimse cuts and to achieve balance.
As for fothery thomas or whatever he is called, well then, temper temper.
Best regards..MD
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Wickes do 'Aquapanel' see tinyurl.com/2v6lvs
tells you all you need to know. Easy to work with, but the real expense is if you use the special purpose ceramic coated screws and fixing washers!
IIRC I used building adhesive and plasterboard bugle headed screws over the top of plaster for a shower enclosure. Still on the wall after 2 years and no tile popping. Somebody will probably tell me the error of my ways.
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Does anyone know where to find the betting odds for the Rugby Six Nations? Trying to find it on Channel four is like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
I am not interested in betting as such, but I am curious to know who the bookies think are the likely winners and losers.
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Try the William Hill website - other bookies are available to take your cash.....
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other bookies are available to take your cash.....
Fortunately, gambling is a vice I don't have. I will keep my cash. It was simply curiousity.
However, thank you for the info.
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The big bookies usually advertise on the sports pages of the daily newspapers - odds for various events are listed.
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i see paddy power are laying 15/8 against that the tiles fall off the bathroom wall within 6 months :)
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I've seen a Nokia flip phone I like in the O2 shop (On Pay and Go) but my current phone is PAYG with Orange and the latter don't sell the model that O2 have.
Can I take one of my old Orange phones into an O2 shop and go onto the O2 network using the SIM from the old Orange phone, together with the credit I still have on the Orange network?
I hope that this all does not sound too complicated?
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SNIPQUOTE!I hope that this all does not sound too complicated?
You can transfer your number to a new provider but you will lose any Orange Credit you have on the phone.
Equally you can buy a "locked phone" and get it unlocked at your local "corner shop" / High Street and use your old SIM in the new phone and thereby stay with Orange.
Check with the unlocker that he can do your new phone b4 you buy it!
Typically £7-£10 to unlock in Scotland at least - 2/3 minutes for most phones - certain models "overnight" when he gets "his cousin" to do the deed
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/03/2008 at 19:16
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SNIPQUOTE!Typically £7-£10 to unlock in Scotland at least - 2/3 minutes for most phones - certain models "overnight" when he gets "his cousin" to do the deed
Could I not buy the SIM free Nokia phone from Amazon, say, and then buy an Orange PAYG SIM card and have the number and credit transferred?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/03/2008 at 19:18
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Could I not buy the SIM free Nokia phone from Amazon say and then buy an Orange PAYG SIM card and have the number and credit transferred?
If it is a SIM FREE phone any SIM card will work. All you do is transfer your old SIMCARD into the new phone and off you go - the actual phone is irrelevant it is the SIM card that is the key to all that is important if you buy a SIM Free phone
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is transfer your old SIMCARD into the new phone and off you go - the actual phone is irrelevant it is the SIM card that is the key to all that is important if you buy a SIM Free phone
Thanks for all your help.
Just to reiterate then. I buy the new SIM free phone from any supplier and I can then transfer the PAYG SIM card from one of my old Siemens's phones (several year's old) and it will work with the new phone?
Edited by oldgit on 04/03/2008 at 15:16
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Just to reiterate then. I buy the new SIM free phone from any supplier and I can then transfer the PAYG SIM card from one of my old Siemens's phones (several year's old) and it will work with the new phone?
Yes, in a word
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/03/2008 at 19:18
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SNIPQUOTE!Yes in a word
Provided the SIM is still active: network operators tend to de-activate SIMs that haven't been used for a while ( 6 -12 months IIRC). Check that the SIM can still make calls in the old Siemens phone before transferring it. Buying a PAYG phone and having it unlocked is likely to be a cheaper route than buying a SIM free phone, if you don't mind the ( usually minor) cost and hassle of unlocking.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/03/2008 at 19:18
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Just wondering, does anyone know what has happened to AE, nearly a month since he last posted, place seems a bit quiet without him.
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Just wondering does anyone know what has happened to AE nearly a month since he last posted place seems a bit quiet without him.
My very thought. And where is bell boy?
I noticed a post by someone called Seat Altea a week or so back, but it was a bit polite for AE.
Edited by Lud on 04/03/2008 at 15:47
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>>Whatever pda may think (as the result an idiotic prank clone thread by bellboy) I'm sympathetic to her point of view.
>
>>>>>>>>> my thread was light hearted relief and was NOT the first thread it was the last,my allegiance with truckers doesnt change i understand their problems and have said so often
This was the last we heard from BB. I guess it'll stay that way while he's got a cob on (unless he still reads this and we can intimidate him into replying). I miss him, he had a lot of useful information to contribute.
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Funny too, with a very particular viewpoint. I don't know whether intimidation will work though.
Perhaps a moderator scolded him inappropriately? They mean well but they aren't always perfect.
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See what I mean? There's still a bit of creative spelling but unless bb comes back it'll die out eventually.
:o}
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There is only one thing in life that's perfect. It ain't mods ! We try our best though.
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Maybe they are with Adam?
Seriously I hope all is well with both. BB is probably in a huff and AE is busy. Well I can but hope.
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Perhaps his Renault has finally broken down.........must be an Auto!
VBR...MD
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What about old SJB? Where's he gone?
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He´s been ´twinned´. I would imagine they´re keeping him a bit too busy, should be a year old now.
Shame bellboy/oldman isn´t around. Maybe he´s too busy giving punters test drives (not).
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Or enjoying himself changing Micra cross members?
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seem to recall bb saying that he was off abroad for a while (africa?).
(lower case in bb style)
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Been in contact with AE to discuss our SEATS, he is doing fine!
I was wondering where Aprilia had gone?
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Perhaps AE is off preparing his dogs for Crufts??
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I have realised that I want a Creative Zen. I have also realised they are about half the price in the US.
Why I couldn\'t have realised this three weeks ago when I was IN the US, I don\'t know. Maybe that would have been too simple.
Anyway... The Creative US website says it will ship internationally. In their shipping FAQs it says that you may owe customs or duties, but that Creative won\'t charge this.
I guess this is saying that when it goes through customs they may slap an extra charge on it. Does anyone know how this happens, and how much it is likely to be?
Also, does anyone know of any good electronics shops in the US? Over here the shop prices are lower than Creatives own, I\'m hoping that perhaps the same is true in the US.
If I can find a way to get it at a reasonable enough price, I\'m hoping to get the Zen 32GB. If not, I will have to make do with the 16GB.
Thanks in advance.
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I believe the \'threshold\' value for import tax is £18. Sometimes levied, sometimes not.
But if you have my sort of luck........
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Bought a Sony Radio from the States a few years ago. IIRC there was a small amount of duty to pay and it was collected by the courier (UPS?) on delivery - presumably as part of their service.
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Are there any words that rhyme with:-
Month, Orange, Purple and Silver?
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According to Stephen Fry on QI - Burple.
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Burple. The color of a bruise as it begins to heal. Slang for abuergine.
Among many other definitions
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Month? Dunth. if you've got a lithp.
Sorry. I'm currently reading a Pratchett - Igors!
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Can anyone recommend a solid state digital camcorder? I know a lot of digital cameras have a movie mode as well, and that may well turn out to be what we go for in the end, but I've seen things like this:
tinyurl.com/35tbat
which would appear to be more suited to video.
It's for my stepson to record his life in a rock band, so video quality doesn't need to be that high, but it does need to be small-ish, easy to use, and with easy transfer to PC. Must be under £100.
Cheers
John
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The camcorder to which you provide the link uses a small tape for video recordings; it also states it can take up to a 1GB Secure Digital card to supplement the 16MB internal memory.
It has a USB2 interface so transferring video files to a PC should be easy, where they can be manipulated as required.
Note it's not a true 10MP camera, but 3+MG interpolated to that figure.
Edited by Stuartli on 06/03/2008 at 14:35
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The camcorder to which you provide the link uses a small tape for video recordings;
Oh yes- thanks, hadn't spotted that. I think a no-tape model would be preferable, even if it probably means a lower resolution (for video), say 640x480.
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Actually looking at your link, i think for £59 you may have found just the very thing you are looking for! I've been glancing through the "specs" and think i just may get one myself, but with the QVGA memory card to give me the 1hr + recording time!
If it does all it says "on the tin" then tis a bargain, if it turns out to be cheap tat, then it's the neiboughs chrissy present ;-)
Billy
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Actually looking at your link i think for £59 you may have found just the very thing you are looking for!
Hmmm... just a bit worried that I don't know the manufacturer and can't do a search to find reviews etc., and the use of tape (presumably lowers battery life amongst other things).
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This is more what I had in mind:
www.ebuyer.com/product/130928
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I just bought a Sanyo Xacti CA6... Nice little camera but unfortunately it cost about £130. Shock and splash proof though.
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Whilst in Brussels last Tuesday, my wife had her bag snatched. Losses included passport, cards, driving licence, door & car keys. All these can be replaced but I am concerned about identity theft. To prevent future problems are there organisations we can advise about our losses and hopefully get the details on a database, which if actioned by the bad guys might warn banks or other institutions.
The thief rode a scooter onto the pavement grabbed the loosely held bag and was away in a second.
Many thanks
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yes. the credit check agencies can put a flag on your record to say that you are at risk of identity theft.
contact them directly.
* Experian Ltd
0870 241 6212
* Equifax plc
0870 010 0583
* Callcredit plc
0870 060 1414
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I always leave feedback on people's accounts when I've bought something and they in turn have also left me feedback. Just recently though 2 people haven't left me any feedback after buying from them.
Is it being unreasonable to politely email them and ask if they would?
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isn't feedback part of your 'score'? I'd drop them a polite brief ' sorry to bother you again but would you mind please' type of email and if you never hear from them again just be sure not to buy from them again - I wouldn't get into a slanging match - life's too short.
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Were you buying an item, or feedback? Who cares?
Some sellers leave feedback in large chunks. Beware the sort of seller who will leave you a negative for hassling him for feedback...
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I leave neutral feedback for people who ask for feedback, even if it's been a perfect transaction up until that point. It is a voluntary system after all, and I don't appreciate the hassle.
I thought Ebay were doing away with the feedback system soon anyway?
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I hate sellers that don't leave the feedback when I pay. Unless the seller leaves feedback first I don't bother. I am not becoming a feedback hostage. Stuff 'em.
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"I hate sellers that don't leave the feedback when I pay. Unless the seller leaves feedback first I don't bother. I am not becoming a feedback hostage. Stuff 'em."
Which is exactly why eBay is ditching seller feedback shortly.
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I have a sony ericsson K750i in front of me that my daughter wants me to sell on ebay.
Its boxed, everything included, just one BIG problem. When you turn it on it asks for phone lock code... you guessed it, she cant remember. Its not 0000 and its not 1234. I'm not trying again.
Is there anyway around it to get the phone back to default settinngs?
Thanks for any help.
Dave
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Most markets have a phone man who will unlock a phone for a fee. A bit like the man at car auctions with a van full of gear to 'correct' mileages!
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I take no responsibility for this info given by my son: if it is a pin code she has set up herself you have 3-10 chances to guess it. Keep on guessing then the phone will lock itself as part of the anti theft security, you will be asked for PUK code or security code which will be anything for 4 to 15 digits. This code will be on the box or instruction manual. If it is on the box it will be around the bar code. If it is not then you need to ring Sony Ericsson (number on the internet) and quote the IMEI number which is also found on the box or on the phone, usually under the battery.
Being an amateur, I think I would just ring Sony Ericsson!
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You can also (usually) get the IMEI code by dialling *#06#, assuming that you can get into the phone to dial anything! When any phone is working it is worth getting this number as it is what you need to report to get the phone blocked if stolen or lost
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Similar issue after "friends" played with Bromptonette's Nokia. Quick call to Orange sorted it out - PUK code now saved.
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0123 has to be worth a go
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Similar issue after "friends" played with Bromptonette's Nokia. Quick call to Orange sorted it out - PUK code now saved.
>>
To be honest I thought that the puk code changed every time it was required. Maybe wrong though, it happened once before.............i got wed!
MD
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Am looking into the possibility of putting a stainless steel tailpipe into a conventional off-the-shelf rear exhaust box.
If a suitable welding technique can be identified, intend to purchace a brand new back box, cut it open, remove tailpipe section, use as pattern for SS copy with an added mounting flange if required, then reassemble.
Can anyone please advise of suitable materials, rods/fluxes etc and as to what type of welding ( mig, tig, argon,) would be best suited to the job?
Thank you.
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would it not be easier to get a custome exhaust place to fabricate something in stainless steel? you seem to be going the long way about doing things.
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Why weld it? Why not just make the SS tailpipe a bit bigger, and push it over the original one, like a sleeve? An axial slot in last inch or two will allow a normal exhaust pipe clamp to provide some grip.
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My very thought. If possible exhaust systems should be dismantleable in sections, for reasons too obvious to mention (not that they usually come apart as one would wish of course). Welding in an exhaust system is a bodge unless it's done for performance reasons by an exhaust specialist.
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Well said Lud. I fully agree.
If I could buy off-the-shelf exhaust sections ( goodness only knows how much they would cost ) that I could strip down, clean and then put back on the car I would be happy and I would not have needed to ask my original question in the first place.
And Yes, before anyone else brings it up, I know that there are re-packable silencers available.
Thanks.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 08/03/2008 at 20:52
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I wouldn't touch you exhaust if I were you. You don't make sense on the subject.
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Eutectic dissimilar rods are suitable for this type of repair
they are quite expensive though ,or stainless steel wire can be used in a mig welder but if it is a small unseen repair I just use ordinary mig welding although it will surface rust
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My thanks to all who responded to my post.
Regards.
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Stainless filler, doesn't matter whether it's "stick", mig, tig... also useful for welding cast iron, although I digress. I'd be inclined to shove the S/S over the pipe, or the stub of it, as others have said, & hold it on with snap rivets, rubber bands, self tappers, or whatnot.
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My thanks to Defender and FotheringtonThomas for the replies.
Your information and details gathered elsewhere, show that the conversion is possible and practical. I am now also, in contact with someone who has done exactly what I want to do, to the backbox on his Classic MG with great succsess.
Thanks again.
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I am considering buying a new flat panel TV thing.
Question is - should I buy (or avoid) LCD or plasma? What is the difference, especially long term?
Money is not critical. How difficult are they to set up?
Edited by drbe on 09/03/2008 at 07:27
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I have got an LCD; I am in a small house so only a 26". I know nothing about the pros and cons of LCD v Plasma. I can say that that set up is a doddle. Plug it in, connect to aerial, Sat or freeview and VHS or dvd and it self tunes and sorts the Channels into the right order ie BBC1 is 1, 2 is 2, 3 is ITV, 4 is whatever it is, 5 is 5 and 6 is Sat or freeview - easy peasy. LCDs are seriously cheap at the moment, a factor of over production may be. Big brand names cheap at Sainsburys and Currys. Have a look at the Richer Sounds website too - they have some very keen prices, often on just discontinued models.
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Plasma sets give, generally, blacker blacks and whiter whites - they are normally only available in the larger sizes. Power consumption is higher than for LCD on averrage.
LCDs sets, providing you stick to the top brands, will provide excellent displays and many also have good quality sound.
From a top brand point of view it's Panasonic first, followed by Sony and Sharp (have a joint LCD panels manufacturing plant) and Toshiba.
You could, of course, weigh up the cheaper offerings from lesser known brands but, as always, you get what you pay for.
Some advice:
blogs.guardian.co.uk/askjack/2005/09/plasma_or_lcd...l
www.plasma-lcd-facts.co.uk/facts/size/
www.panasonic.co.uk/technology/plasma-or-lcd.html
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I have one of each - 28 inch Hitachi Plasma and a 32 inch Toshiba LCD. The Hitachi sounds and has a better picture than the Toshiba - that is a personal, subjective, preference.
Edited by Pugugly on 09/03/2008 at 11:52
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I have a Sony Bravia LCD telly. Very good and easy to set up. But even the best LCD tvs don't give as good a picture as a good CRT tv IMHO. Having said that, I wouldn't go back to conventional tv, they're much too bulky.
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nick is quite right - which is why I still retain my 21in CRT monitor and its first class display.
Another reason is that, until quite recently, LCD response times have been sluggish on both standard sets and monitors, leading to "smearing" of the picture during movement; today, response times are much improved and down to 2ms on some monitor models.
It's not quite as important with a standard LCD as you sit further away, but a monitor is used close-up and this factor can prove irritating.
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My parents are still on CRT at home. LCDs and Plasmas just can't make our standard definition broadcasts look good, which isn't too surprising when you consider the shocking quality of Freeview.
The only one that's come close is a Panasonic, which we saw at Christmas. Would still hold off getting one though; I daresay Freeview is going to do a DAB and fold in the next 10 years. It's running on antiquated technology, and I have a vague recollection of reading that the newer version of DVD-T isn't backwards compatible.
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The reason that Freeview is not too good at present is that the signal strength is a fraction of analogue, too many channels are crammed into the bandwidth available and that many LCD TV sets actually produce a standard display (rather than HD) that is not as good as would be expected.
I receive Freeview transmissions from Winter Hill - currently the digital transmissions signal strength is 1.87 per cent of that of the analogue equivalent....:-(
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I recently bought a 26" CRT because my uderstanding is the picture quality deteriorates at a slower rate than plasma and LCD (don't you hate it when they call it 'LCD display'?), they're not making any more, and it cost a fraction of my 20" I bought ten years ago.
I expect when prices drop I'll buy a spinning jenny and seed drill.
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"I receive Freeview transmissions from Winter Hill - currently the digital transmissions signal strength is 1.87 per cent of that of the analogue equivalent....:-("
We would get our signal from there but it's been poor for years on analogue - need a new aerial no doubt. But have cable via Virgin Media so irrelevant.
Once they switch off the old analogue signal though, the digital will be boosted but not before.
Some of the differences for LCD vs Plasma already covered (e.g. blacks on plasma better due to the technology).... an LCD needs a backlight so if a scene has both bright and dark then the dark bits will never be black.
One downside of Plasma and LCD is burn-in (also effects CRT to a lesser extent). With some channels having a fixed image/logo it will eventually "burn-in" and be partially visible with any images. But when plasma TVs were over £10k it was a worry. Now you can get a TV with 1080p for a fraction of that I'd not lose sleep.
The TV I'd have liked to get in the future will be discontinued I guess. A Sony back projection 1080p DLP type TV. Big screen. Good blacks and replaceable bulbs etc.
When someone looks to the future of HD though make sure you get a 1080p if you can.
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>>We would get our signal from there but it's been poor for years on analogue>>
You surprise me. Even Channel 5 has been/is received well on analogue.
By the way "burn-in" is not prevalent on LCD or plasma sets.if normal precautions are taken.
If you want to get rid of the BBCi or other logos superimposed on channels, just press the green button (not a lot of people know this).
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Stuartli, I think we need a new aerial. But since we have cable channels anyway I have not got around to sorting this. And if not a new aerial the cable to it to blame.
Burn-in can be a problem over the long term. And when you paid £10k for a plasma you expected it to last. Now it's not such a problem.
Last time I needed a new TV, LCD/Plasma still far more than a CRT and it was not that long ago (3-4 years?). Now I still have a Panasonic widescreen Dolby Digital TV that weighs more than the average backroomer ;-) But £350 back then did not get you anything like an LCD.
As a "step-up in size" I'd want 47"+ to justify and a HD source.... I think I'll wait.
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Some more useful sites in my Bookmarks:
www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/
www.dtg.org.uk/retailer/dtt_channels.html
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I think I'm right in saying a plasma draws about four times the power of an equivalent cathode ray, whilst an LCD draws about the same. Be glad to be shown to be wrong.
So if you think there's anything in this "global warming" lark you might want to think about LCD over plasma.
I suppose if one were hairshirted enough to be putting those ghastly cfl lightbulbs in and wandering about illuminated by feeble glow worms, turning things to standby every two minutes and worrying about carrier bags one might not buy a tv at all, because it's still only Eastenders anyway, but that's probably just me. Can't see anything wrong with a good book and a wind up radio tuned to the Home Service myself. That Tommy Trinder is good enough for anybody.
That particular Meldrewism wasn't directed at anyone here, but it does irk me that media people have a go at "big engines innit" but then buy a 59 inch tv and seven more for the kids.
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Power consumption: My Toshiba 37 inch takes 137 watts. My biggest tubed set is 27 inch and typically takes 120 watts, but that is a smaller TV.
The power of the tubed set goes up and down with brightness (picture content) because of increased tube current with increased brightness.
The power consumption of an LCD seems pretty constant having a fixed level of back-lighting of the LCD part, although Philips, I think, have used back-light control in some circumstances.
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Thank you all for your responses.
It seems that Panasonic are not producing a 37" plasma set at the moment.
The jury is still out at the moment. Do I want/not want Freesat?
Edited by drbe on 10/03/2008 at 11:19
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>>Do I want/not want Freesat?Do I want/not want Freesat?>>
www.freesatfromsky.co.uk/?pID=3
I've never really seen the attraction of Freesat based on the channels available (yes, I know Freeview isn't that much better!), unless you already have satellite.
Re plasma sets. Panasonic does several 37in plasma sets:
www.panasonic.co.uk/plasma-tv/index.htm
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remember that the BBC are touting their package as Freesat as well - nowt to do with sky.
Pioneer have recently announced an end to making Plasma screens - is that what you've seen?
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I once got a cracking deal on a CRT TV at "Sound and Vision". It was hundreds cheaper as their order for one Panasonic model got messed up so Panasonic sent them hundreds of a better model.
I needed a telly quick because the old one broke and the wife will have wanted to watch her footy team the next weekend on TV - a rare TV appearance at the time.
They still seem to do cracking deals (and live close enough and you can pickup at the warehouse).
Anyway took a quick look and there are Panasonic Plasma's on there. 37" 1080p model about £625.
www.soundandvisiononline.com/listview/index.asp?&s...7
EDIT: Looking at spec it's not 1080p but few Plasmas will be. Easier to get that resolution via LCD.
Edited by rtj70 on 10/03/2008 at 18:24
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