A 2 year old might be set in its ways and not adapt well to yours! Think of it as a new child. Do you want one and do you want it for at least 10 years. Will you take it on holiday or put it in kennels? Will it be 'your' dog or the 'family' dog? How old are your children? Do you live in a house or a flat, town or country. Will the people who walk it take gloves and a bag to pick up the 'logs', like some ignorant people in my village don't? Have a look at:-
www.thekennelclub.org.uk/buying/
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Sucks teeth......
Been there and done this.
The nearest to an oilcap are skin/hair and tooth condition, these generally give a very good idea of doggie's health. If you pinch the scruff of the neck and it feels nice and smooth as you handle the skin and it takes a while to settle, this is good indication of hydration. Hair (depending on make/model) should be shiny and smooth. Teeth should be clean and gum condition good. Dampness of nose means nothing.
Like any good motor the dog should have a service history of sorts, vets keep a good record usually under the dog's name. Owners should have kept receipts. Get Pet insurance (Don't think that Warranty Direct does it though...) don't be tempted to change doggie's name ! - dog views this as part of its identity very much like a registration plates. Ask about its diet - we found that our Cocker doesn't respond well to fish....the hard way ! Daft thing to point out ask the previous keeper how often it want refuelling, we didn't with the Cocker but she now likes topping up first thing in the morning and at coming home time. Find out about its toilet habits, a dog will have fixed timetable (usually after re-fuelling), I can only speak about Spaniels but they run like clockwork. Find out whether it prefers wey or dry food. Ours eat dry food the fall out is easier to deal with. The need for coolant varies with dog size ambient temperature and other factors, our Cocker (the only one which lives in the house) drinks about half a pint a day but this increases in summer and with the thickness level of coat. Change water every day regardless of whether drunk, unlike food dogs will only drink what they need and not what they see.
Where is it going to be in the daytime---big issue.
What about car travel - is likely to be travel sick
Try asking for its existing bedding, they'll find that comforting.
Expect trouble for the first couple of weeks as it beds in, it will miss everything about its old home and take it on you and yours.
Ask owner
Does it chew things (I have a strategy)
Is it Housetrained
What commands does it recognise.
Is it good with children
Is it stock trained - even our domestic cocker will go into a field full of sheep with no drama.
There are so many things !
What make/model is it ?
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Got to say PU you really do know your stuff in this department.
My initial reaction is why is 'it' being re-homed or whatever you like to call it at 2 years. Someone elses problems spring to mind.
Good luck...........MD
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Well, the wife bought a new collie pup last year for £75. Nice dog but turned out to have an ectopic ureter, so dribbled continually - not nice - ok now, but cost a fortune in vets' bills, not to mention the trips to the vetinary college at Edinburgh. Not sure how to check for that kind of thing though.
(I think balancing the 75 quid against the 4 figure vet bill, I'd have put it down, but I still wanted to live with the missus - heyho, so it goes)
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Excellent advice already given.
Where are you getting this dog from? Most important is why it is being re-homed at 2 years old and what his/her history is. Did the present owners see the parents, was it home bred or from a puppy farm? This will have an enormous affect on behaviour and whether it will suit you. One of ours still has a problem with young men having been very badly treated prior to arriving with us 5+ years ago.
Check breed characteristics on google before visiting - even Heinz 57's will have 'main' type and dog breeds are very different, some having heath issues too! This will also influence the amount and type of exercise needed.
Where has it been kept? If in kennels then may not be fully house-trained - esp. if used for breeding. Have they used a cage - if not, it might be worth considering, as it gives the dog somewhere he can retreat to when he wants peace and you somewhere safe to put him when you leave him or are eating. Essential for travelling too. Has he been left for any periods, if so, how was he: agitated, laid back, destroyed the house?
If from Battersea, for instance, they will give you a comprehensive dossier on the dog and will have done some work to match you to the dog offered. Worth noting our latest was considered very 'vocal' - which would have been a real problem if we had been less rural, even here initially upset one person in the lane
He should have been wormed regularly, have had yearly boosters for initial vaccination (about £30 a time) and should have a vaccination card from the vet.
A vet will be able to check if he is chipped, or if chip is still readable, and he will be able to give you the number of the chip so you can re-register the dog to you. You should also have his chipping registration card, which you will need to have changed to you - costs about £10 - if you don't have this then the chip company will send forms and will contact the person registered as owning the dog (lots and lots of stolen dogs out there - see www.doglost.co.uk for some idea!) before registering to you. They will hold your address in the meantime.
As said above, insure dog. It includes 3rd party apart from anything else and vets bills/meds are not cheap!
Ask if the dog has done any training ie puppy classes. It is important have been socialised with all sorts of people, animals including other dogs, before about six months old to save problems - see Pu's comment about livestock. Most important is to check it has recall ie will come back to you when you call - our youngest still has no recall unless you have a toy he wants - makes walking off lead very fraught - and explains why he ended up at Battersea!
Decide on how you want things to be before he comes home i.e. we don't have dogs on the furniture, in the bedrooms or around while we are eating. It is easier if rules like this are in place from day one.
Dried food is much much easier, for lots of reasons including poo-picking, but check it does not have sugar beet or similar in it or it will often lead to a hyper dog. Made our life much easier when we discovered this!
Edited by deepwith on 06/01/2008 at 18:23
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A dog is a pack animal - you have to ensure from the start that it regards you as the pack leader.
A good dog behaviour expert or dog training classes will guide you or borrow a book on a particular breed from the local library.
A healthy, happy dog is a superb companion; never complains, never nags and is always delighted to welcome you home.
Pick up its lead and it will be in seventh heaven, but also remember that many dogs, even some small ones, are working dogs and will require the proper levels of exercise - the bonus is that you plenty too whilst thoroughly enjoying it even in the worst weather.
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Thanks to everyone who has already replied, some tremendous advice there - really really helpful.
We're looking at a Retirever so it's not a small dog and will need exercise. You're right to pick up on why the dog is being sold at 2 years old - the reason I've been given is "we're overdogged". I'm not sure what that means, will explore it further when on the visit, which isn't until next weekend, giving me time to prepare.
PU & dw, they are some very useful checks, I think I'll make a list of the questions and take it with me so that I remember to get all the answers. Stuart, I've been thinking about classes too - I'm hoping my size will help me establish myself - we've already got the book on the dog so have an idea what a "typical" of the breed would be like.
I'd had a look at Pet insurance and Martin, you've just convinced me that if we get a dog, we need it - hope your dog is well now.
This site is great, where else would you find such great, reasoned and sensible advice elsewhere on the Internet. Many thanks to all who've replied and keep suggestions coming!
VBR
Lee
Edited by Citroënian {P} on 06/01/2008 at 20:46
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I think the key question is: do you really like dogs?
If you do then most of it comes naturally, after all we humans have been managing for a few thousand years already.
We got ours from a rescue home at about three years old - a cross between all sorts and we just had a good feeling about him and after a year and a bit, everything is fine, you just go with the flow.
On insurance we got ours via a price comparison site and ended with an Argos policy - yes really - but somehow appropriate for a scruffy mutt from the wrong side of the tracks. It's not just the vet's bills it's the three car collision if he slips the lead and runs into the road. Don't delay on getting a policy as your dog's behaviour wil be at its most unpredictable in the first few days.
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Lee
Fifi the faithfull RF Labrador Retriever came in the household at 2 years old. It came from a household of other dogs. (like yours would and like yours its a working breed).
It will come from a place in the pack into a house where it has no other dogs. It wont know what its place is, who does what, who leads, who eats first, etc etc. Its gonna be confused.
Mine howled at night because it thought it was on its own and was lonely. It was settled in after two weeks tho.
All previous advice is good but people have missed one point. You need to connect with the dog. If you (and wife and kids) and dog are all wagging your tails after 1/2 an hour you will all get on. If not forget it. Ask to be left alone with the dog, (so its not with its pack) take it out for a bit.
Dont worry about recalls or livestock issues. Any english working breed can be taught to behave on both. (using the correct operant conditioning training techniques - advance clicker training)
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never complains, never nags
Obviously you've never met pedigree Cockers. When something isn't going quite right for ours she sighs - three times without fail. She also howls in the back of the Roomster (strangely only ever on a return journey), I don't think she appreciates my downshifting.
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Mine nags, mine complains. Mine is also the finest actress on earth and has manipulative skills that can not be matched.
The disapointed, lady Di-esque, double look back over the shoulder accompanied with big droppy eyes can break the heart of the hardest man. I know its just one of the tools in her toolbox tho!
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Oh a Retriever - nowhere near as good as a Cocker TDCi of course unless you misfuel it of course(joke). I resolved never to have a domestic animal again that could reach a table unaided. This was after a tedious year of trying to train a Springer to live with us. The final straw was waking up one morning and finding him sound asleep on the kitchen table, he hadn't stolen anything it was more of a statement "I can do this if I want to" now lives outside, where he provides 24/7 protection of property.
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I would just back up everything already said about insurance. Its honestly the only insurance we've ever had that has resulted in us being consistently quids in.
We've had two Cavalier KC Spaniels for 11 years - sadly lost one in August, but I think I heard the party from the insurance company office. Our little Ollie had lived with Diabetes for 4 1/2 years before he eventually succumbed to the inevitable kidney failure. But the vets trips, insulin, needles, etc cost a fortune. Not to mention his arthritis, dry eyes, various water infections, operation for a swallowed sock, 1 week stay in dog hospital (yes - really) when he contracted sceptecemia (I think) after the op etc etc etc - it just went on and on.
We spent about 15 quid a month on each dog in insurance and put claims in averaging about £200 - £300 each couple of months.
I've heard the new extension at the Vets is called the "Ollie Wing". :)
I don't mean to sound patronising but be sure that you know why you want one, and specifically why you want a particular type. And be sure you are prepared for the huge commitment they need - SWMBO would not trust anyone else to master the precise drug needs of our Ollie, and as a result we have not had a holiday for nearly 5 years. She still won't go until our remaining one has finally succumbed, as he is very old now for a cav, and she is convinced he will pop his clogs just when we are away.
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If things don't work out with the retriever there is always www.dogstrust.org.uk
Hundreds there looking for homes, and the Dogs Trust do a lot for you, namely:
Dogs are fully assessed and you're given details of any issues they may have, whether they are good in the car/with children etc.
You are fully assessed (and your home) to check you match the dog's needs.
The dog is spayed/neutered and chipped before it comes to you.
Ongoing behavioural support
Six week's initial pet insurance (at least, ours did, they may not do it now)
And you get the nice warm glow from knowing you've got a dog from a rescue centre who needed a home. Unless you're planning to show your dog, what's the point in going to a breeder and getting a pedigree? Mutts are more fun!
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Over dogged? Are they a 'working' dog household? If so, is it a show, trial or working (gundog) Retriever? Breeding and training trial and working Retrievers is my brothers life, together with a shooting school.
If this is a pure Retriever, they should have breeding papers and this should include a hip score. My brother includes the hip score for each (6 at the moment) of his breeding dogs/bitches on his web site, together with their 'careers' to date!
Swear filter by-passed for you !
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 06/01/2008 at 23:43
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