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Edited by Dynamic Dave on 14/10/2007 at 21:19
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The size colour an weight of a £1.00 coin. I had it in some change dated 1986. Anything know about them-even Google is vague...makes a change from an Euro !
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I trust you fed it into the next parking meter you had dealings with PU, after looking furtively over your shoulder and up and down the street of course, and carefully positioned your body between any CCTV cameras and your hand in case they were provided with zoom lenses...
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Google is perhaps a bit vague for >>Swaziland Lilangen<< because it should be "Lilangeni" ;-) Wikipedia gives about as much info on Swazi currency as anywhere i can find, but i've learnt that 1 Lilangeni (L1) is worth 100 Cents, and if you've got more than one (as well as being lucky!) they are reffered to as Emalangeni (E2), and were introduced in 1974.
There! hows that?, - you learn something everyday in here! ;-)
Billy
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Billy. You beat me to it.
Google gives me 2M hits
and 80K for Swaziland Lilangeni coin
They look just like
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Coins-of-swaziland.JPG
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Well,
Close examination of the coin shows that the "i" had worn down. How exotic though
.....and worth all of 7p. Wow I've been had !
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 06/10/2007 at 23:58
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Off topic maybe of this forum maybe
But, I live in an area of really hard water, and within 1 week of having a new bathroom finished, already tiles and glass door in the shower cubical are displaying hard to remove water marks/scum./limescale.
It has occured to me that some car cleaning products could be of good use in these circumstances such as
a) a good wax polishing product on the tiled surfaces, while new(ish) would that help prevent build up of limescale and make future cleaning easier? Any recommendations?
b) a water repellent wind-screen product, like Rain-Ex for the glass shower door.
c) anything else?
I can't believe I will be the first person to be thinking along these lines, and thought I would ask the highly informative HK forum for thoughts.
Regards
Guy
Not off topic enough to go in IHAQ though !
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 07/10/2007 at 16:12
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why didnt you get the plumber to fit a speedfit scale inhibitor to the water pipe whilst the bathroom was being refurbed?
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And don't forget a good squirt of WD40 will displace moisture from anywhere you dont want it ! ;-)
Billy
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I use a bike product called Hope s*** Shifter (sorry mods, it's actually named that...) and it does a fantastic job of cleaning. I use it all over the place, and as a bonus it's disc brake and environmentally friendly. We found it did a better job of the dishes than Fairy Liquid, but it is expensive unless you buy it in bulk.
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>>But, I live in an area of really hard water, and within 1 week of having a new bathroom finished, already tiles and glass door in the shower cubical are displaying hard to remove water marks/scum./limescale.
I too live in a hard water area and in the last five years have not had a water marks problem.
A (£1.50 or maybe £2 pretty coloured ) squeegee (now available from from MS )is used on my tiles and glass before I exit it shower.
I use a little citric acid now and again on the hose and shower head.
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Clean the shower first with Mr Muscle bathroom cleaner or an equivalent limescale removing product to clean off the scale you already have.
Then buy a preparatory 'no need to rinse' shower cleaner. Tesco own brand about 70p in a pump-action squirt bottle. SFAIK it works as a wetting agent, creating a hydrophilic surface. You spray it around the shower as you climb out, and - being a wetting agent - it causes the water droplets to de-aggregate, so disappear and so slip down the walls and drain away.
Rain-ex I think works the other way as it creates a hydrophobic coating. It causes the water to bead. Once it has beaded, it sticks, and evaporates, leaving white deposits. On a car, of course, the bigger the beads of water, the more easily they are blown off the windscreen.
As for waxing the shower, you would get the most spectacular streaks. Good luck!
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You could always get a water softener fitted
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You could always get a water softener fitted
Marc, you're dead right!
A water softener is the answer to so many problems in the house it would take a long time to even get half way through the list!
The car is a special beneficiary of the joys of a water softener. No more special cleaners for this bit, another cleaner for that bit, no more fruitless rinsing, no more wiping off the smears - just a little squirt of washing-up liquid in the bucket, slosh it on and hose the bubbles off and - voilà - everything sparkles!
In the house - no more nasty chalk marks round every tap, no more furry kettles, a sparkling shower, a ring-free bath - I could go on!
Downside? You use so little detergent that you may forget to buy some more!
OK - so they're fairly pricey but you save so much that they earn their keep within a year.
....and the joy of driving with a perfectly clean windscreen, even if it is raining!
--
e Prôf - Another Recycled Teenager
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I am currently employed with a contract of employment which states that I may not leave to work for another company in a similar industry. I understand that this is a fairly commonplace restriction in employment contracts but is it enforceable and if so how ?
I would imagine that my present employer would have to sue me if I left to work for a competitor and they felt sufficiently aggrieved, but I would imagine that employment law would be on the side of free movement of labour.
I have never heard of a case being brought so what is the situation ?
{Moves to correct part of thread, as per the Please Note: message at the top of this thread - DD}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 07/10/2007 at 21:35
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I doubt very much whether such a ridiculous clause could ever be enforced. The more draconian a restraint, the less likely it is to be enforceable.
Does your contract really say this or does it qualify it with say restrictions on approaching customers and staff of your current employers? These are much more reasonable and therefore enforceable.
If it does say this and you think it may be an issue then I'd seek some specialist advice from an employment lawyer - many firms offer a free first half hour session and they should be able to give you a straight yes/no answer on the enforceability of a clause. Check any insurance policies you have, many chuck in legal helpline advice, or are you a member of a trade body which often do likewise.
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I fully support what has been said above by NSar, but would add....
I have heard of some companies using private detectives to monitor peoples' movements in the case where the subject has taken a severance payment with such a clause as a condition.
I suspect that the clause is designed to protect Intellectual Property Rights. When most of us leave one job and start another, we take with us skills and experience gained with our previous employ, and maybe the names of a few contacts.
However people who leave companies that have made huge investments in cutting edge technology/products could be seen as a threat to the profitability and viability of that organisation if they start work for their competitor.
IWHTT (I Would Have Thought That) the company stipulating the clause would have to pursuade a county court judge that there was a viable case to enforce the clause, and that the company's measures were not simply anti competitive.
OR.....
Wait until PU sees this question, which I'm sure he will......
Edited by Hugo {P} on 07/10/2007 at 21:58
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I'd want to see the complete clause, verbatim, before I would even think of commenting.
--
L\'escargot.
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You need to quote the clause.
there have been several rulings on these clauses. try googling 'restraint of trade'
such clauses are common in IT contracts where they are intended to stop an individual cutting out the agency or consultancy and going direct.
As I understand it they can stop you working for a competitor for a reasonable period (like 6 months). trying to stop you working for anyone in an industry sector would be totally unenforceable.
I suggest you speak to a solicitor.
The only real way for them to stop you working elsewhere is to enforce a long period of gardening leave - its the sole reason that gardening leave exists.
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I would have thought if they wish to stop you working for a competitor for a period then they need to pay you for that period.
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Yep - my other half was paid to take 'gardening leave' for a couple of months when he announced he wanted to leave. There was no such thing as actually working your notice with that company!
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If you pay your telephone line rental to a company other than BT (I'm considering TalkTalk) could there be a problem getting line faults rectified? In other words, could you still report line faults direct to BT and get them rectified free?
--
L\'escargot.
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I thought you always have to pay BT for line rental regardless of who provides the calls.
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With local loop unbundling, you pay the line rental to talk talk (for example).
No, there is no problem with line repairs. Keep your number and still get your repairs.
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I've always wondered about this too and it has put me off switching phone provider in the past. Now I am considering switching as BT have introduced a fee for paying by cheque.
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>>>Now I am considering switching as BT have introduced a fee for paying by cheque.
I understand that this fee can be avoided by paying your cheque directly into BT?s account via your own branch.
Not yet tried it myself, though.
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"it has put me off switching phone provider in the past."
Our experience may not be common, but it serves to reinforce this point. We were without a phone line altogether over Christmas because of some work done by BT next door that resulted in their disconnecting our line. Because we were with Pipex, BT wouldn't help, and the only remedy, eventually, was to get another line from BT. Couldn't keep our number and had to wait four weeks. Despite local loop unbundling, the fact remains that the lines are under BT's control, and if you need them mended, it helps (a lot) to be one of their customers.
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Recently changed from BT line rental and One Tel phone package to Talk Talk providing everything when we moved house. Soon after we had a problem with the line and I reported it to Talk Talk who arranged the engineer and solved the problem etc. Not sure if they have their own engineers or whether they use BT though. Either way there was no charge to us and the only dificulty was trying to understand the person I was speaking to as it wasn't a UK call centre.
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Not sure if they have their own engineers or whether they use BT though.
For the line to the customer from the exchange they use BT's network* and therefore BT's* engineers will attend and deal with any faults or fitting work on the line up to the First line box in your premises.
*BT's external network is now run and maintained by a wholly owned BT subsidiary called Openreach who deal with each service provider, including BT Retail (the people who you buy your BT phone line from).
>>Now I am considering switching as BT have introduced a fee for paying by cheque.
You will find that quite a few of the alternative providers charge considerably more for paying by cheque and that many will not accept any form of payment other than by direct debit so shop around and read the small print before you jump.
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TalkTalk pays line rental on your behalf to BT (the price has also been cut by 50p to £10.50) - you can't obtain TalkTalk broadband or broadband/phone packages without a BT line.
I've stated before in the forum that the TT package I've been on since a year last April, TalkTalk International3, at £20.50 is absolutely unbeatable.
The price includes the line rental, free AnyTime local and national 01 and 02 calls in the UK; free AnyTime international calls to 30 different countries including Australia, the States and Europe and, on top of that, "up to 8MB" broadband.
No other ISP has to date come anywhere near matching that package...:-)
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I have just switched to Talk Talk after being assured by them of the £20.50 all in price Stuart mentioned. All went well, I got my first bill for the agreed amount and was happy with it. I was surprosed a few days later to recieve a seperate bill for £19.50 for broadband, so wondering what was going on I phoned them. I was told that because my local exchange couldn't handle 8mg broadband I would have to pay the seperate fee for at least six months till the exchange was upgraded. "Didn't anyone tell you?, was the operators response to my surprise. I told them that they had not and I would not pay the extra and if they did not like it they could cut me off and I would let Ofcom sort it out. I instructed them to make a note of the conversation on their computer and told them I was going to phone my bank and instruct them not to pay any more than the amount originally agreed. When I phoned the bank they told me that Talk Talk had set up two direct debits, one for the phone and a seperate one for broadband which I immediately cancelled. The broadband debit was due out on the 4th and I have not been cut off yet even though their direct debit attempt would have bounced. I am waiting for the return of the mail service to see if there is anything in the post from them, but I am less than happy about it especially since Tiscali, who I switched from, have now introduced the same package for £19.99.
I have been through all the small print in the bumpf they sent me and there is nothing about a possible extra charge for broadband. If anyone has had the same problem I would like to hear of it.
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>>to recieve a seperate bill for £19.50 for broadband,>>
I'm very surprised at this imposition. When I switched to TalkTalk from Tiscali a year last April I remained on a 2MB BB service, which was part of the £20.99 monthly fee; the 2MB service was also slightly faster and certainly more reliable than Tiscali's effort.
At the beginning of March, TalkTalk's LLU equipment at my local exchange came on stream and I was switched to the "up to 8MB" service.
Initially I was getting 6MB to 6.4MB but two or three short cut offs later I'm now on a 6.5MB to 7.2MB connection.
TalkTalk has delivered everything it promised initially (after the odd hiccup caused by the staggering takeup when the service was first launched) and I've had no need for any complaints for the past 15 or 16 months.
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the only dificulty was trying to understand the person I was speaking to as it wasn't a UK call centre.
With my industrial-noise-damaged hearing (ear defenders were rarely available in the 1950s) that is something I would definitely have to take into account.
--
L\'escargot.
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Our hot and cold fill washing machine is on its last legs. I understand that most (if not all) modern machines are just cold fill. However I like the idea of hot (well, warm anyway) fill because I believe that the decreased demand on the machine's heater results in less furring up ~ our water is hard. Would it be permissible to connect our existing hot supply pipe to a cold fill inlet? Our boiler setting is relatively low and this, coupled with the temperature drop from the indirect hot water cylinder to the washing machine, means that the inlet temperature at the washing machine would never exceed the washing cycle temperature. Would the fact that the hot water pressure is lower than mains cold pressure cause a problem?
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L\'escargot.
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Don't forget that you will be doing hot rinses as well. The extra hot water used in those will add to the furring up load on the boiler.
Most modern machines will have a low temperature "eco" wash setting which will be kinder to the element as well.
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>Permissable
You have been living in this Communist state for too long. Yes, of course it would be permissable.
But as others have stated, it would be foolish. Your boiler probably runs at 50-60 degrees, otherwise the water wouldn't be hot enough to warm up the cast iron bath and still be hot enough for bathing. So how do you do a 40 wash?
You will waste a load of hot water as rinse cycles are generous with the water.
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Modern machines tend to use minmal water in the wash cycle so your're just going to fill it with something barely tepid that's come through the indirect cylinder. The rinse cycles on the other and willl drink their fill from your heated water.
Best to either use a descaler in the supply line or regular treatments with Calgonite or similar to control the scale.
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Every washing machine I've come across with a hot fill actually takes water from both hot and cold when it requires hot water. A safeguard in case the hot water feed is at a higher temperature than that required for a delicates cycle.
Most modern machines seem to use much less water, so if you connect to the hot supply, the water going into the machine consists largely of that sitting in the hot pipe. The hot pipe will be re-supplied from the hot water cylinder, and start to cool until it is again re-supplied. How much hot water reaching the machine depends on how much it takes, and how far it is from the hot water cylinder.
My previous washing machine had a hot fill, but after feeling the temperature of the inlet pipe just after it had called for hot water, I realised it was actually getting very little, and I was paying to heat up the water in the feed pipe, only to allow it to cool down. I fitted a Y-piece externally, and made it a cold-fill only.
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I remember reading in the instruction manual for my mum's washing machine that it only uses the hot-fill for washing at 60 degrees or over (which for most people is never). For a normal 40 degree wash it uses cold water and heats it up. Hence my (newer) washing machine doesn't have a hot-fill. If you have a combi boiler (as many people do now, including me), it's pointless having a hot-fill, as you're not taking advantage of a hot water tank.
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Our last washer was Dual-fill and was sited close to the combi-boiler, a hot wash cycle would take 45-60 mins, but our new washer, cold fill only, can take anything up to 90-120mins depending on time of year. Personally i think it's cheaper to heat the water fast by gas, than to have the equivalent of a kettle working for 20-30 mins. plus it speeds up the cycle time immensely. I would still prefer dual-fill, but as folk are finding out, they are increasingly hard to find.
Billy
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If you have a cold fill only washer then plugging it into the hot water supply is not really a good option. As has been said the rinse cycle will use all your hot water. Also how do you do more delicate washes when there's so much hot water?
Obviously for dual hot/cold fill then having hot water heated by the boiler will be more efficient assuming you have a combi boiler.
You'd be surprised what results you get with biological washing power/liquid on low temperatures.
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>>Obviously for dual hot/cold fill then having hot water heated by the boiler will be more efficient assuming you have a combi boiler.
I'd dispute that. You're still emptying the contents of the hot water feed pipe, from the combi boiler to the inlet valve on the washing machine, (which have probably cooled) into the washing machine first. You're then paying to heat the water in that pipe, which will slowly cool. What proportion of the water in the machine is in this pipe? Also remember the machine is probably taking in cold water at the same time.
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There is a general rule that anything that can be bought here for £X can be bought in the USA for $X. With the current exchange rate that means it will be half the price over there.
And I have seen this rule work time and time again when checking prices of things in USA. Only today I looked on ebay and saw the cheapest diesel compression kit was £49 it is available from ebay sellers in California for $49.
So why is it that goods are sold much cheaper in USA than they are in UK? The wholesale price from the manufacturer is not going to be different depending on which country the importer lives in.
Thank you
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So why is it that goods are sold much cheaper in USA than they are in UK?
I think this phenomenon is known as Rip-Off Britain?
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>>The wholesale price from the manufacturer is not going to be different depending on which country the importer lives in.
Anybody remember the time when there was near parity between the dollar and the pound, and how cheap it was for Americans over here.
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A huge factor in the price of retailed goods is the cost of land. Land prices in the UK are exceptionally high, and the cost/time of development is also high. Add in lower sales taxes, lower personal taxation (no NHS in the US), lower employer's taxation and you get an economy with a lower cost base, hence lower prices.
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I think personal taxation between US an UK are very similar at around 30% income.
there should be some UK importers small scale importers, who should be getting the goods for nearly the same cost as the US importers and who should be able to sell the goods on at cheaper prices, undercutting the competition.
say item x costs $15 per unit to import the US retail is say $30. The UK importer should also be importing for $15 per unit but for some reason he is selling it to retailers for retail at $60. I just can't see this being put down to land prices and rental costs for warehouses etc.
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After spending several weeks recently in California, my only complaint was the cost of meat & fish. They are the same as here in the UK, and buffalo (my favourite) is very expensive. I never did find a proper butchers, fishmongers or greengrocers, although doubtless they exist. And another thing. Fish & chips in the bar/restaurants cooked 'UK style' is a damn sight more expensive than my local corner chippie and it aint served wrapped in the Craven Herald or Westmorland Gazette either!
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Hope you joke about buying fish and chips in California...
If you ever got to San Francisco (or many parts of Silicon Valley) hope you tried out the micro breweries. Some do a "tray of beer" with a small glass of everything they do.
Best fish I ever had was in Maui though. Best Tuna (Ahi) I have ever had and probably will ever have.
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I think personal taxation between US an UK are very similar at around 30% income.
In 2005, total UK tax revenue was 37.2% of GDP compared to 26.8% in the US. How this is then split down, I don't know, but the US has a significantly lower taxed economy overall than we do.
Cheers
DP
--
04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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It doesn't look so good when you factor in health insurance costs.
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I agree Nick, and it's not somewhere I'd personally choose to live for that and several other reasons.
Cool country to visit though, if you can live with the immigration policy.
Cheers
DP
--
04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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horatio: " I think personal taxation between US an UK are very similar at around 30% income"
Last conversation I had on the subject with an American, his top rate of tax was about 25%. He was a decent earner, too.
One major reason is that the price of something is what people are prepared to pay. One of the reasons cars came down so drastically in price a few years ago is that people realised that we were being ripped off, so either started importing from the continent or delaying purchases. Hey presto, prices plummeted.
V
Edited by Vin {P} on 11/10/2007 at 09:44
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Goods have always been about half the price of those in the USA - we had friends in Chicago in the 1960s that sent me camera lens hidden in parcels of toys for the kids at Christmas, because they knew they were at least twice the price here.
The most likely reason is simply sheer volume of sales - 200m plus potential customers is much more enticing than 60m plus (now) in the UK, who represent smaller sales volumes and, therefore, higher retail prices to cover the cost of running a business.
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The majority of the difference is down to economies of scale, comparing the USA and the UK is not comparing like with like. The same reason that Tesco is cheaper than your local shop.
Edited by nick on 10/10/2007 at 11:01
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>>Goods have always been about half the price of those in the USA
Are you REALLY suggesting that when you got one dollar per pound that US retailers halved their dollar prices in order to keep the UK tourists happy? I think not.
The exchange rate is currently probably the major factor making the States so cheap.
Does nobody remember going to Germany when you got about 2.2 DM to the pound? Rip-off Germany it was then. At 4DM to the pound, rip off Britain.
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"Does nobody remember going to Germany when you got about 2.2 DM to the pound? Rip-off Germany it was then. At 4DM to the pound, rip off Britain."
Well, that reminds me, A lawnmower I know cost £650 in UK (cheapest is £560 ish in UK). The same one sells for approx half the price in Germany £350. You can argue that exchange rate makes it that way, but not really, because British importers can buy the same mower for the same cost as the German importers (with a little extra for more shipping), but there's nothing to stop the British importer passing on the savings to the consumer.
Anyway, I was hoping someone with trading experience in USA and UK would have been able to tell me some actual figures. So I'll leave it now, thanks for your replies.
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Horatio - you didn't ask for figures, which may be why you didn't get any.
To get down to brass tacks, the wholesale price in the USA for certain easily resellable goods is 50% of the UK wholesale price. This should set up a business opportunity (which is why I know the figures). However, there is a catch.
"[there is a] right to prevent importation into the EU if these goods have been marketed elsewhere (so-called Community exhaustion of rights). The ECJ found that Member States cannot introduce or maintain systems such as that of "international exhaustion." International exhaustion would be a system in which first sale anywhere in the world would allow their later import into the EU ."
(from tinyurl.com/2ykdb2 )
So you can't import goods from the US for resale. Or, more accurately, you have to stay below the manufacturer's radar (which is why I'm not mentioning which brands of goods wholesale so low over the pond).
As for your comments ref the German lawnmower price, you are perfectly correct, as the rules quoted above do not apply within the EU. However, a few things conspire to make the lawnmower more expensive in the UK than in Germany, most of them covered above. The main thing, though is that price is whatever someone will pay. We will pay more than Germans, so we can be charged more. If no-one bought at £560, then either the price would have to come down or sales would dry up. It really is that simple.
V
Edited by Vin {P} on 11/10/2007 at 09:58
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A relative of mine forged her Dad's signature in order to get married - more than 60 years ago.
They are still happily married. Are they legally married? And if not could this pose a problem to them?
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SHhhh, don't tell anybody.
If no-one has noticed so far will they in the future?
How will they check Dad's signature from 60 years ago?
Is he still alive to deny signing ?
What was it he signed?
--
Phil
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A relative of mine forged her Dad's signature in order to get married
If her dad had signed whatever form it was, to what would he have been attesting?
--
L\'escargot.
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I'm going to guess that she was under 21 at the time of marriage, so required parental permission? Which presumably would not have been forthcoming.
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Yes, she needed parental permission to get married due to her age. I don't think she got as far as asking, she just did it. I expect all hell broke loose at the time but her Dad must have accepted it because there was no long lasting rift. They were and are very much part of the family.
I'm concerned because I wouldn't like to think of there being any problems for them. She is very ill and unlikely to recover. There's no way any officialdom could find out anyway, is there?
Edited by Rebecca {P} on 11/10/2007 at 12:53
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>>There's no way any officialdom could find out anyway, is there?>>
I really can't see how they could or even if they would contemplate such a query.
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My understanding is that the marriage was and always has been valid, although if one party wanted to claim that the marriage should be voided it will be by the courts.
The issue on these cases is not - are the authorities interested? but how a void or voided marriage would alter any inheritances. It is not the sort of detail that I would tell my relatives about for that reason alone.
Edited by hxj on 11/10/2007 at 14:33
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hxj admits to skeletons in his cupboard... ;)
Thinking about it the other way round. What if your wealthy relative wanted to leave her poor husband. Instead of divorcing, she decided she wanted to claim she had NEVER been married. Can you imagine how difficult THAT would be to prove when the evidence of the last 60 years was to the contrary?
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I have no skeletons in my cupboard ...... the bodies are still putrefying!
To see if the marriage is void or voidable is always a tactic of the wealthy part of a divorce - no marriage - no maintenance ......
Just think what a well know insect could save
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Thanks all. No vast wealth in this case, or acrimonious anything! Just a 5 minute panic on my part.
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My mother currently pays line rental to BT and a n other company for her calls. She does not require a broadband package. Does anyone know the best package as she wishes to reduce and simplify her phone bill....most of the cost is rental!
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Beware!
If you rent the line directly from BT, but route your calls through some else, BT will charge an additional premium for its extra 'free' services such as call minder, unless you route a minimum number of calls through BT each month. I don't have the exact details to hand, but it's in the small print.
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Talk talk are among the cheapest
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>>Talk talk are among the cheapestTalk talk are among the cheapest>>
TalkTalk IS the cheapest...:-)
See:
tinyurl.com/2dmw8h (for details of its TalkTalk International3 package at £20.99 that includes line rental, "up to 8MB" broadband and free AnyTime calls to all local, 01 and 02 numbers AND free AnyTime international calls to 30 different countries).
As I've said before, no other ISP has come anywhere near matching this package.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Thanks for the response Stuartli
I shall have a look at Talk Talk options. As I stated earlier, she doesn't need broadband or International...she wouldn't dream of phoning someone 20 miles away in rainy Lancs, let alone overseas!
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Hello legacylad.
Talktalk is the cheapest if you want broadband, but without broadband is beaten by
www.moneysavingexpert.com/phones/home-phone-calls#...e
However, you may find that Talktalk's phone only packages Talk2 at £10.50 per month for first year, and then £13.89 thereafter is good value.
tinyurl.com/pbqfz
Alternatively, the Talk2 International pack which includes free "upto 8Meg/40Gig" broadband is £16.39 per month.
tinyurl.com/359wb5
Whether you need them or not, Talk2 International call plan includes
Unlimited number of evening and weekend calls to local and national UK landline numbers.
Unlimited number of inclusive international ANYTIME calls to 36 International destinations worldwide.
Calls to mobiles in the USA & Canada are also included at no extra charge.
Free unlimited number of calls to other TalkTalk customers.
Edited by jbif on 12/10/2007 at 10:49
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>>Alternatively, the Talk2 International pack>>
But the International3 package is even better as UK local, 01 and 02 calls are AnyTime, not just evenings and weekends.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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A friend recently applied for Talk3 (no internet) and was told it would take 5 weeks to become effective. I just wonder, for example, what hold-ups there might be if you got Talk3 International installed at your current address and then moved house.
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L\'escargot.
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Can you really be bothered changing phone supplier for the sake of 5p per month, for two months.... ????
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Can you really be bothered changing phone supplier for the sake of 5p per month for two months.... ????
The move is a future possibility, and is by no means certain. The saving for me with Talk 3 International would be £8 per month absolute minimum, with the added incentive of free calls.
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L\'escargot.
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Just thought I'd say thanks for the advice I got on here a couple of weeks ago. Comet telephoned me last Thursday and told me to pop down to my local store for a refund. A different manager then gave me £50 off the next model up, so I can't complain too much!
Cheers,
David.
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I need a free-standing larder fridge, 600mm-ish wide, 600mm+ deep, and a maximum of 1350 mm high (w=60cm,d=60cm or a bit bigger, h=135cm).
How can I find out which models fit, without having to download descriptions for hundreds of 'fridges, which is tedious? Any pointers gratefully received.
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you only need to find the "top-ten" by an organisation like "which?" for example, then just browse those, not half as tedious as >>having to download descriptions for hundreds of 'fridges<<
Billy
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From the dimensions you give, you're looking for a standard size under-counter fridge.
So just pick the model you want (Billy25's suggestion to look for a top-ten is as good a way as any to find one) and double-check before you buy that it fits the space you have.
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>>>From the dimensions you give, you're looking for a standard size under-counter fridge.<<<
If 1350mm is 'under-counter', Gromit, you must be living nearer to Giants Causeway than I thought :o)
The Lec Larder Fridge comes close to what is needed. Model L5546W (55 x 63 x 144) but as 135 is stated as *maximum* height acceptable, I will keep looking.
Remember to look on Froogle for price range and be *sure* to let it stand for at least 24 hours after delivery before switching-on....'not many people know that' the refrigerants need at least that long to settle down.
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FT....Success at last....here: tinyurl.com/2m235f (if I have done everything correctly) is just what you are looking for and from what looks like a very well established supplier.
Good luck....and *do* let us know how you get on.
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tinyurl.com/2m235f
A Google for that model reveals that other suppliers say it's 1390 high, opx on it, so it won't fit! I will double-check tomorrow, however. Thanks for your efforts. I did find a thing called a "Hotpoint RLA54P", but it seems to've been discontinued, drat it. Argh! Oh, for another inch or so...
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The best place for comparison of all parameters is the Comet website. tinyurl.com/33bjgt
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L\'escargot.
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Yeah, I know it's miles off any topic - but England in the Rugby World Cup final?
Just thought I'd let you know that I have survived the 15 heart attacks I had this evening - nearly had a couple when watching the recording, let alone the live match.
Well done England!
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Phil
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I take it they won then! - well done England, however, in the real game (Rugby league) the "Bulls" beat the "Saints" and cost me a pint! - Drat!
Billy
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surely in the 'real' game england beat estonia 3-0!
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 14/10/2007 at 11:10
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No, that was in the overpaid nancy-boy game. In the real game england beat France 14-9.
Edited by Pugugly {P} on 14/10/2007 at 11:10
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(Rugby league) the "Bulls" beat the "Saints" and cost me a pint! - Drat! Billy
The only Bulls I saw yesterday were the Blue Bulls of South Africa playing in the Currie Cup (RU BTW). It was the Rhinos which beat Saints - and what a win.
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Tis True! Twas the "Rhino's" ;-) must of won and drunk more pints on other bets than I thought! ;-)
Billy
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