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I work overseas for a foreign company (paid in US Dollars)since I spend less than 90 days in the UK I'm registered as a non UK resident for tax purposes and don't pay any tax
I earn good money but no pension is provided, I save a lot of money every month i have defered pensions in the UK but all my savings and deffered pensions will not amount to a great deal of income, i plan to retire at 60 (12 years time)
I'm thinking of Buying a house to rent as a pension I will need a mortgage, plus use a lot of my savings as a deposit. I hear that there are such systems avilable now. What about capital gains tax, when or if i come to sell?
Where do i stand with the tax man if i do this? I have a specialist accountant in the UK, the last time i emailed him a question about inheritance tax ne charged me 75 quid for a reply!
So any free advice would be good
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Do you intend to retire to the UK ?
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I'm a developer / builder and definitely not an accountant, but I'd say buy new to get the 12 year guarantee from NHBC / Zurich / Premier and avoid issues that older houses / flats may have, plus we are having to build to such a standard in terms of thermal performance that the running costs will be quite low, which will be quite attractive to tenants and therefore landlords.
As for location, buy near a university or hospital that about to be expanded e.g. Southmead Hospital in Bristol, buy a 2 bed flat as a minimum. If you have kids of university age, why not buy a place for them to live and rent to others afterwards? Some mortgage providers will lend to the student guaranteed by parents - Bath Investment Building Society is one.
You will get charged capital gains on resale, but i belive that there are taper reliefs and such like, depending on how long you keep it. You definitely need to get proper advice though. Have a look at the HMRC website. Some people dress them up as a primary residence (the key to avoiding CGT) but is it worth it when you get caught?
As regards mortgages, a normal buy to let mortgage is 85% loan to value, so to maximise the investment and depending on the cash you have, consider buying more than 1. Buying more than 1 and buying off plan will help you get a discount, but the value will remain the same: e.g. let's say a flat is £100k, and you get 5% off, you still get a 85% LTV mortgage, so you can get a £85,000 mortgage and just need £10,000 capital (plus fees of course).
There was a proposal to allow people to buy residential property and put into a SIPP for a pension. The residential bit never happened, but you *could* buy say an office, warehouse or shop unit and put into a SIPP. I think you need 50% down though. But that's really beyond my knowledge.
Hope that helps, happy to help more. But do get some professional proper accountant / IFA advice before you commit.
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Do you need to have this investment property in the UK? There may be other countries where the tax position is more favourable, or the property market is less overheated, or where you can get better rates of return/lower borrowing costs.
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"Some mortgage providers will lend to the student guaranteed by parents" (Halifax also do this)
"You will get charged capital gains on resale"
I think I am right in saying that the house ownership is in the name of the "student" so there will be no CGT when sold if it is his/her principle residence. If student moves on and house is subsequently rented to others then CGT will apply.
(On reading mare's post again - I think that is what was implied, but it didn't dawn on me at first!)
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Phil
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Answers to above I live (when i'm home) in a University town so have a good knowlageof rental properties.
No the property does not have to be in UK but thats what i would like i do plan to retire in the uk the idea for buying in the UK would be so that i could keep an eye on it
The more i think about it i think i'd be better off buying somwhere other than UK . Spain, Ireland, France, or Turkey then rent it out as a holiday home
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Somebody above suggested 2 bed minimum. Certainly here (home counties North- commuter land) the rental return on 1 bed flats is much better than 2 bed flats. 2 smaller units also give better protection against voids, although possibly with increased management overhead. I regard the 2nd bedroom as a very poor investment unless it is to let whilst you are the main occupant.
Stick to professional lets - not students, (although my personal experience of students is not bad, certainly more tolerant of any short comings), and avoid any larger property that will fall into HMO classification. Be warned that some university towns apply their own higher standards to a variety of aspects if you wish to be listed listed as an approved property.
Property abroad has its own problems, certainly not a licence to print money, and remote management unless you have very good local connections and the foreign language skills can become a nightmare.
Some of this information may be outof date, but the principles remain true.
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pmh (was peter)
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Mr M.
I have a friend in N Wales who has several properties in Bangor. Word in the street is that the University there is looking to put as many students as it can into purpose built accomodation - he is very concerned about a dip in BTL property values in the City.
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Do your sums carefully - my Dad has a 2 bed cottage in Provence that is rented out as a holiday home. By the time all the expenses are added up, including but not limited to, maintenance, advertising, cleaners, local man who gives the holidaymakers the key, bills, local taxes, etc etc, a good year brings in a return of about 10% on rental income. This isn't uncommon - 10% is considered to be quite a good return.
But perhaps not good enough for your pension plans!
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I've decided to take the plunge and book flights for a three week trip to Canada, entering and leaving from Toronto (the flights were good price).
Thinking at present of doing one of two things:
Visiting Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa, Quebec and perhaps one or two Eastern US Cities
or
Toronto and catch the train that goes over the Rockies and stop at Winnipeg, Calgary and finally Vancouver. Fly back to Quebec and see see Montreal on the way back to Toronto.
My plans of where to go are set in stone, hopefully well travelled backroomers will have some advice on where to go and places to miss, I'm in two minds about hiring a car and think I'd like to try the public transport route.
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Can't help much apart from the fact that a friend recently stayed in Toronto and Winnipeg with relatives (flew between the two).
In Winnipeg his relatives suggested a trip to see the bears at a National Park, giving the impression it was only a short distance away.
Turned out it was more than 200 miles but, just as with Australians, this was regarded as being just up the road.
My friend said the trip was remarkably quick by car as the roads were "superb".
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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A trip to NIagra Falls needs to be on your list. Despearately tacky and touristy, it is none the less, a sight you have to see.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Toronto and catch the train that goes over the Rockies and stop at Winnipeg, Calgary and finally Vancouver. Fly back to Quebec and see see Montreal on the way back to Toronto.
I'd prefer that any day of the week - getting into the US can be a right pain (as we all know) The train goes through the famous spiral tunnels in BC, Vancouver is by far the nicest city I have ever visited - we missed out on a trip to Vancouver Island and really regret that to this day.
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The CN Tower
www.cntower.ca/portal/SmartDefault.aspx?ac=417
"Located at a height of 342 m (1,122 ft) you will find the Glass Floor and Outdoor Observation Deck."
Not an experience for everyone- dancing on the glass with that space beneath you.
Video clips at
www.cntower.ca/portal/GetPage.aspx?at=1253
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will second about visiting vancouver island also if you get to the falls take a trip on the maid of the mist(that's what it was called when i was there) awesome.
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Thanks for the feedback everyone, I'm checking all your surgestions out.
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The Montreal-Toronto rail service splits along the route to serve Quebec City too. Aim for direct trains; the stopping service from Toronto to Montreal took 5 hours when I took it in 2000, whereas the direct Montreal-Toronto service is three hours.
Bring your own food too, the rubber sandwiches and murky coffee doled out by Via Rail defy belief. Its no accident that Montreal station is graced with a range of take-away delis and patisseries that would give any French town a run for its money!
You might be better off flying into Toronto Docklands - one hour journey time, and much of the rail journey is through industrial towns that haven't much to offer by way of scenery.
If going to Niagra by rail or bus, check the timetables carefully - most rail services are through trains to Buffalo or New York, and the bus service back to Toronto can be sporadic.
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I'm just dismantling some utility room cupboards in preparation for a re-fit. On two pits of paper stuck on the back of a door I have found two codes. One says PUK followed by a long number and the other says PIN with a 4 digit number.
No idea what they are for?????. Anyone any ideas?
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Fullchat
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PUK is your unlock code for your (or someone's mobile) PIN could be anything I suppose that requires a er...PIN, but if they're together must be phone as well.
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Thanks PU. Lightbulb moment from Mrs FC. Dont have to cancel the fitters now ;-)
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Fullchat
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We've had our offer on the previously mentioned 1986 bungalow accepted and it's time to go into it more deeply. According to the builder the floors are constructed of a layer of concrete followed by a layer of polystyrene, on top of which are sheets of flooring material. Does polystyrene in this application present a fire hazard? I assume it complied with building regulations at the time it was built.
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L\'escargot.
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Last year I sold a house built in 1994 that had what seems to be the same construction method; a "floating" concrete floor (the house was build on deep foundations in a former marsh area) on top of which were thick polystyrene sheets (about 5 feet square and 6 inches thick) on top of which was a polythene sheet, on top of which was chipboard flooring, on top of which was either a plywood sheet and tiles, or wooden flooring (no carpets downstairs).
I have no doubt the house was building reg compliant, as much as I have no doubt that carpet and most flooring is a fire hazard anyway!
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As long as it meets - BS EN 13163 'Thermal insulation products for buildings - Factory made products of expanded polystyrene (EPS) - specification' then yes its ok.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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No problems with this method of insulation, I did some floors in my house the same way and the building inspector was happy.
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Nsar's Q in CRQ reminded me.
I have a couple of Nokia Bluetooth ear pieces, with either of my last two phones (6310i & 6230) if the phone rang though the ear piece was switched off I could turn the ear piece on as I answered the phone and it would connect through automatically.
However I am now using a Sony Ericsson K800i which works perfectly with the Nokia ear piece except in the above scenario, it does not connect through automatically if the earpiece is switched on when the phone is either ringing or already connected, it can be done manually though that is a pain and rather defeats the principals of hands free.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Have you set the phone to connect to the earpiece without the need for authorisation? That might do the trick. Otherwise it might be the fact they are different brands or running on different versions of Bluetooth
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Thanks Phil, sorted, seems that after turning the Bluetooth headset on I also have to press the answer button for it to connect to the phone mid call, makes sense really though with a Nokia phone it connected automatically upon being turned on.
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Any good firms to advise for a move from Central Midlands to Cambridgeshire? Needs to be a full packing job where the householder doesn't do a thing.
Thanks,
DW
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I've used Pickfords - with full packing service - for two moves and they have been fantastic. I also got them to price match the major local independent's quote. You may not need their insurance if covered under your own house policy.
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I've used Pickfords - with full packing service ..............
We're debating this for our next move. Did the packing take less than a day? We don't fancy the idea of having to stay overnight in our old house with most of our possessions in the van.
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L\'escargot.
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L'escargot,
Every single person I know who has ever used a full packing service has said that they wouldn't ever move again in any other way. Probably half a dozen people have raved to me about it enough that even I, a professional Yorkshireman, would stump up the cash next time.
The way it seems to work is that the packers work pretty much the way you would do it. They come along and pack for a day or two, then actually load the van on the move day itself. the difference is that all they do is pack, so it takes a fraction of the time it takes you, as they are professional at it and don't waste time about it.
Whatever you choose, hope the move goes well.
V
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The packing is very fast, and they do it sensibly so you are left with the things you want for overnight. The real beauty of it is that you do nothing before the packing day (apart from decluttering if the mood takes you). With Pickfords it invalidates their insurance if you do any packing yourself. All you need to do is keep the kettle on and hoover up a bit.
When you get a quote they give you a move plan that sets out the timetable.
I have no Pickfords connection apart from as a satisfied customer.
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.. Needs to be a full packing job where the householder doesn't do a thing.
although based in surrey, i think they will do your job, and i have no hesitation in recommending this company ( no connection with me except as a satisfied customer several times )
www.luxfords.co.uk/moving.htm
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My late parents, being ex-army always used Pickfords, did the same for their last move. Packing and move brilliant if only they had not had to put stuff into storage for 6 weeks. That stuff which was delivered direct to various children en route was perfect. EVERYTHING that went into store was damaged - they were very good about getting repaired what they could and gave compensation for the irreplaceable and I believe also gave extra for the value of now 'restored' antiques. Reading this, not sure if I recommend them or not!!
Further to the full packing service, can I also suggest you book a local commercial cleaners to fully clean the new property while empty - it costs about £80 here in the south for a three bed house, specifying to include inside cupboards and cooker, and makes the move really perfect!
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Thanks everyone. I think we may go with Pickfords to make it easy. Our move will be the contents of an unoccupied house to another unoccupied house where the owner will not move in for some weeks. Definately going to have the full pack service and use their own insurance.... makes the responsibilities very clear and all down to them.
Take the point about cleaning the place but what we're selling is a re-development prospect where the buyer will not move in for a good while.
Thanks,
DW
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a previous owner had a soft water system installed into the kitchen, but when knocking through from the outside wall left a gap,allowing freezing cold air into the kitchen.
Bearing in mind there are several pipes, and its a tight space to work in, and I'm not exactly diy proficient, what would be recommended to insulate to prevent more cold mornings, and from where could the items be purchased.
I thank you in anticipation
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Aerosol expanding foam should do the trick. Availble from screwfix or any diy shed.
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Aerosol expanding foam should do the trick.
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I Agreed. Beware it is E- X- P- A- N- D- I- N -G foam and a little squirt makes a lot of foam but it is easy to cut with a Stanley knife.
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How big is the hole? Use expanding foam filler from a DIY shop...
www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/unibond/nomorebiggaps.ht...l
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I recently moved out of rented accommodation - I've been returned the deposit in full but have a problem concerning an overpayment which I made.
It was a 12 month assured shorthold tenancy due to end on 17 Feb this year. The rent was due on 17th of each month.
We ended up buying a place and I gave one months notice to quit on 6 Dec setting a vacation date of 7 Jan.
I stupidly forgot to cancel my standing order and one full months rent was paid to the landlord on 18 Dec meaning I had pid rent up until 17 Jan even though I was moving out on 7 Jan.
I think I have overpaid by ten days (8-17 Jan inc), the landlord thinks he should keep this money as I should have moved out on 17 Jan- in other words he accepts my right to terminate but only when the termination date falls one month from the last rent payment date.
I don't think this is right. The AST has a break clause which says I can terminate after 6 months by giving 1 months notice. It doesn't say anything about having to set a termination date which is one month after the rent date?
There probably won't be too many of you who were silly enough to over pay but have any other backroomers had experience of this type of situation?
Thanks
9000
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A short term assured lease usually runs in calender months ,so if your lease started on the 17th of the month then so does your period of notice ,to do otherwise would cause much confusion over the various month day numbers ,if however your lease says a period of 30 days notice then you may have grounds for complaint . It could also be different depending on how your lease is written .Look also from the other point of veiw that if you had been told to leave in 28 days on the 1st of Feb you would be complaining about that ,As I see it a deal is a deal and you win some and lose some but just accept it and get on with your life
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I don't know what the custom and practice is but surely it depends on the contract - that said if the property is rented by the month it is arguable that the break should come on the due date for rent.
My first thought was that you were lucky to get the deposit back - my daughter has rented a number of houses in Cambridge, and the landlord has almost always kept the deposit for 'cleaning' despite the fact that she ahs always looked after them, cleaned them from top to bottom before handing back, and usually left them in a better state than she found them.
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9000
I'm fairly sure you will find that once you have passed the initial fixed term, unless stated otherwise on your AST, you are just required to give notice of one month. The date is very much up to you and does not have to be the one on which you would normally pay your rent.
If you have a 24 hour legal helpline with your home or motor insurance, they may be able to confirm this. Failing that, your local Citizens Advice Bureau may be able to assist.
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Ive got a decorative light that requires a 12v 20VA transformer to operate it according to the sticker on the side of the light. The transformer has gone astray and I was wondering what I could use in it's place. I have an old Phillips phone plug in transformer kicking about that once connected to a desktop charger to charge the phone battery with. The label on the side says its output rating is 12v 900mA, but no mention of VA rating. Would this be man enough to run it?
Is there a simple calculation to convert 900mA into VA, and if so, what is it? Or what does 20VA convert to in mA?
Sorry for so many questions, but if its not man enoguh, does anyone know a cheap source of mains transformers?
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Power (VA)
The number of volt-amperes shows how much power is supplied. Dividing this number by the voltage supplied, yields the supply available.
So 20VA is 1.66amps Your phone charger you want to use is .9amps, so its quite a long way short. Toddle off to your nearest Maplins - www.maplin.co.uk for a suitable one.
The other caluclation you might need is watts = volts x amps
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Many thanks. Although looking around maplin a replacement transformer is a lot more expensive than the light was in the first place. Is there anywhere else other than maplin that i could try?
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Is there anywhere else other than maplin that i could try?
You could try contacting Premier decorations Ltd. 020 86245656. These are the people who make all manner of xmas lights. The lights I have previously bought from them have had leaflets inside the box with replacement spares listed, including transformers, IIRC.
Here is their website, www.premierdec.com/ - which lists a different number to the one on the side of the box of my xmas lights, but unfortunately their site shows little else as it's still under construction.
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As it's that time of year ...
True or false ? You should only wind watches backwards when adjusting the time, otherwise it damages them.
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As it's that time of year ... True or false ? You should only wind watches backwards when adjusting the time, otherwise it damages them.
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Bit late now.
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False..it makes no difference which way you adjust them. According to a qualified horologist (is that the word) who used to work with me some 30 years ago.
As a matter of perhaps no interest he was serving time and was the the most egoisitical know all I have ever met, but also had the the most amazing brain I have ever come across.
It used to be entertainment for myself and cons during break times to use text books to try and catch him out. Ask him the specific density of any material and he would be within a couple of decimal points. Calculate resistance on a specific cable over a certain length and so on.
But ask him something basic and he didnt know. I recall one of the cons asking him who Ena Sharples was and he of course he didn't know to the delight of the cons.
Reverting to watches he always used to say the finest in the world was a Zenith. Never seen or heard of them myself but he was adament they were better than Rolex. Omega etc.
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Well known in watchmaking circles that Rolex are nowhere near as good as they say they are. Had an uncle who was in the business an he used to source us watches that no-one had heard of but were excellent timekeepers. My wfie's TAG Heuer which she bought 12 years ago has just failed as it won't move teh hands by more than 180 degrees. I've never liked the watch, and I've been proved right!
I have heard of Zenith, and understand them to be very good.
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>> I have heard of Zenith, and understand them to be very good.
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I've just had a quick Google and they aren't cheap, are they?
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The one ticking on my desk is a gold "Record" - I think I asked a question here about it some time ago. Ticks away merrily, linked now to Breitling (?) I think. I also own a 1957 Rolex, plain and totally understated a reliable timepiece in daily use.
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>Well known in watchmaking circles that Rolex are nowhere near as good as they say they are.
Dunno about that, I have an old one and a new one. I rearely wear the older one. I used to have a problem with the time keeping of the new one until I worked out it was the amount of time I used to leave it off my wrist - it was my habit to take off my watch at work and at night. Having changed that habit it keeps pretty good time. At least I only ever adjust it when I change time zones rather than ever ntoicing that the time is out.
Its also indestructible so far - snowboarding, diving, windsurfing, horseriding - and, regrettably, gardening. And its never missed a beat. They're watches to be worn.
On the original topic, my Grandfather told me never to wind a watch back when he gave me my first "grown-up" watch on my 13th Birthday. I don't think I would be actually able to wind a watch backwards without severe guilt striking
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"False.."
Glad to hear it because I was told when I got my first watch (and that's a long time ago!) that you should only adjust it by winding it forwards, ie the way the hands usually go, so as not to damage the mechanism! The reason I remembered for all these years is that I never took much notice and used to worry that the watch might be damaged!
As for a good watch, the Accurist I have had for about the last 15 years only gains about 2 seconds a month and cost less than £100. I sometimes wonder when looking at the price of some of the really expensive watches whether 99.9% of the price is for the badge on the face rather than the mecanism/accuracy. - same with some cars!
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Phil
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The only reason for having a mechanical clockwork watch these days is for show or because you like the machine itself, since throwaway electric jobs just as accurate can be had practically free.
My late father had a forties military Lemania he swore by for many years, later replaced by something else whose name I don't remember.
Passing through Hong Kong in the seventies the old boy, bless him, bought me an automatic 27-jewel Citizen with day of week and date in English and French. He said it was remarkably cheap there. I used it for years, but alas, when it needed cleaning sent it to the Citizen 'agents' in Ealing who screwed it up (and didn't clean it properly). Now I look at my mobile phone if I want to know the time.
I can't help feeling more people would buy proper clockwork watches if you could see the works, which are often very fine to look at.
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Having worn electronics for a lifetime until the ast few years can I testify how satisfying owning a watch that ticks and needs winding every now and again. One of life's little pleasures..
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I would suggest that watches that have a day/date mechanism should always be wound forward.
It's something I've always done with a Seiko automatic day/date watch acquired in 1971 (one of a number of Seiko and Lorus watches I have) and it still keeps perfect time; the back has never been off.
I also have three or four £2.99 to £5 watches bought at local markets or cheap outlets and they all also keep perfect time...:-)
For basic use they serve their purposes admirably and look as good as many a more expensive model.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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For basic use they serve their purposes admirably and look as good as many a more expensive model. - - - - - - - - - - -
Especially the Mickey Mouse ones... But what do you mean by 'basic use'? Surely wanting to know the exact time is, well, pretty basic?
Is the implied non-basic use a matter of, say, classy bling for the post-Oscars parties? I'm only asking :o)
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Perfectly reasonable question.
I wear the better watches when appropriate - if I'm just at home messing about with the car, gardening, decorating etc then it's a cheap one...:-)
By the way for both cheap and cheerful and expensive versions I use watch batteries that cost 99p for a retail pack of 40 or 50 batteries (depending on the manufacturer and pack); the packs contain three or four of each of the most common batteries.
Each battery generally lasts for about a year. It always amazes me that people pay £2 to £6 or more for a watch battery as I know they only cost retailers "buttons" (my best mate owns an independent audio/visual/appliances outlet).
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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I've got one of those Traser ones for messing about, trouble is ot loses time (despite new battery) no wonder the SAS are sometimes late !
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"It's something I've always done with a Seiko automatic day/date watch acquired in 1971 (one of a number of Seiko and Lorus watches I have) and it still keeps perfect time; the back has never been off."
Stuart I use the same Seiko of the same vintage as yours. The back has never been off that one either. The stainless strap has needed running repairs though. Also since I retired I find its usually stopped just before I get up in the morning.
One of my son in laws was in 42 Commando during the Falklands and it was a bit of a status thing for them all to have the Seiko with the big orange face which weighs a ton. A collectors item now or so he tells me.
The face was recently repaired by someone he found on the internet as Seiko no longer carried the spares.
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>>The stainless strap has needed running repairs though. Also since I retired >>
Mine has the original leather black strap, which contrasts well with the gold case...:-)
I first became keen on Seiko watches after realising that the company used to make the Seikosha in-between lens shutters for film cameras - the precision required is very high in both cases.
I have several Sekos (the automatic came from the Middle East via my brother, who was in the Merchant Navy. it cost just over £17). Another is a gold case chronograph model that belonged to my late father.
Incidentally, apart from the Pulsar and Lorus (value versions) marques, Seiko also operates the Epson printers division.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Mechanical watches whether wound, auto or quartz should ONLY be wound forwards usually the recommendation is to wind them forwards to about 3 or 4 mins past the time to be set then back to the precise minute, has always worked for me.
It does mean that the autumn requires the watch to be wound forwards 23 hours and the date (if applicable) adjusted accordingly.
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I'm firmly in the wind forward camp - 23 hrs if necessary. Surprised no one here seems to have one of the H.Samuel "Everite" watches. These were, if you are old enough to have listened to the radio adverts on Radio Luxemburg ," Strapped to the wheel of the Flying Scotsman , also dropped from the Festival of Britain Shot Tower " No idea who made them. Not H. Samuel that was for sure.
Phil I
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I have had half an idea, and knowing that you lot are generally very innovative and full of ideas, I thought you might be able to finish it off for me.
I have a 25m hosereel, but due to the arrangement of my tap, gardens and driveway, when pulling the hose out to wash the car you're pulling at a greater than 90 degree angle to the reel, and therefore it comes out very reluctantly.
There is however a brick wall ahead of the reel at only a 30 degree angle. I'm thinking that if I can attach 'something' to the top of this wall and run the hose around this, it should pull perfectly easily... and that's where I come to a halt. What can I put there which will do the job, remain weatherproof, and not look too terrible?
TIA.
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you could toddle down the garden centre and buy the thing. They make devices with rollers in for pulling hose round corners and off the hose reel at the correct angle.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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you could toddle down the garden centre and buy the thing. They make devices with rollers in for pulling hose round corners and off the hose reel at the correct angle.
Do they? Hadn't realised that! That would certainly seem to be the obvious answer then, thank you!
I did have a glance at the hozelock section in Focus this afternoon, and they had all manner of arcane devices to add to your hose system, but didn't see that. Mind you, at that point I didn't know I had an issue, so wasn't looking for it.
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They make devices with rollers in for pulling hose round corners and off the hose reel at the correct angle.
You are most likely to find the Hozelock device but Gardena also make them.
I have some made by Rainbow that have small spheres on a U shaped steel core.
I also have a varient that has a spike to push into my lawn.
"Hozelock Universal Hose Guide
Mounts onto a wall or the corner of a building and guides the hose easily around, reducing the possibility of damage to the hose in use.
www.cmsgardens.co.uk/hose.htm
www.heritage-homeandgarden.co.uk/product_info.php?...8
Hozelock Universal Hose Guide Code: 2391 Ref: HOZ2391 - fits on a flat wall
Hozelock Universal Hose Guide Code: 2392 Ref: N156324- fits on a corner
www.gardena.co.uk/catalog/
Hose Guide Reel
For controlled guiding of hoses. and of electric cables alongside the wall. around corners. along garden paths etc. Particularly useful in connection with Wall-Fixed Hose Reel. Art. No. 2650. Complete with screws and plugs
Product Code 2651-20 EAN 4078500265102
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Thanks Henry.
I take it these guides are large enough that the connector on the end of the hose can pass through them? It's just that if the hose has to stay through the guide all the time, there's a danger of garrotting visitors to my back garden.
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The Pologirl flat buying saga rumbles on. I'm actually nearly there, but my latest hurdle is a missing P60, which is the only bit of paperwork the mortgage co say they need to progress. I have torn the house apart and can't find it. I actually think I might have sent it to a different shared ownership company some time last year as they requested originals, but have never received it back.
I have a provisional completion date of May 1. When are P60s issued? I get paid on the 15th of the month, so if it comes with my April pay slip, will that be in time, or does the mortgage company do nothing until they've had that bit of paper? They've already done the survey, so they can't see me as that much of a risk, added to the fact that they didn't want to see bank statements or anything - just one pay slip and a P60. I've also been promoted since last year's P60, so it wont be an indication of what my earnings are now anyway.
Failing that, is there any way you can get a copy of your last P60 or do they really mean that bit about not losing it?
Thank you!
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See:
www.hmrc.gov.uk/pensioners/endoftaxyear.htm
a little way down.
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Many employers will not distribute 2007 P60s until May, so I'd ask your employer at 5 April 2006 to let you have a copy the 2006 P60. We send them out as .pdf files by email when asked for duplicates, your employer may be the same and you can deal with this swiftly.
I agree that the most recent payslip is much more useful information, but sometimes it's just a case of the lender has to have ticks in all the right boxes as far as the paperwork is concerned. Good luck!
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but my latest hurdle is a missing P60, which is the only bit of paperwork the mortgage co say they need ... ...they didn't want to see bank statements or anything - just one pay slip and a P60. I've also been promoted ..
1. you say "the mortgage co" and "they". i guess it is in fact someone way doen the chain of decision making that you are talking to.
2. ask to speak to a senior manager who has discretionary powers to over-ride "written regulations". ask why they want the p60 - won't last 3 payslips or a letter from your employer/personnel-manager do?
3. some intermediaries are not allowed to use "common sense" and if you are using an intermediary, he/she will need to be nudged to talk to the lender's hq to get permission to accept alternative documentation.
4. some lender's (eg. skipton) accept a p60 as both confirmation of your pay as well as part evidence of identity (one of two documents required, thereby killing two birds with one stone). however, some lenders ( eg. leeds-holbeck ) specifically excude a p60 as form of identity evidence.
so in summary, ask questions of your lender or agent, and seek confirmation from someone in authority if the reply is not acceptable to you.
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Just about to put the house on the market and this happens, typical.
We had a water leak in the bathroom, water came through the downstairs kitchen ceiling. The plaster ceiling is ruined, and I have noticed it is in fact a false ceiling covering an old asbestos ceiling.
The asbestos is undamaged, apart from the water. The water came through some old screw holes, then reached the plasterboard.
What I need to know is whether the insurers will want the old asbestos ceiling removed, or is it perfectly normal in older (Edwardian in this case) houses to just cover it over?
Really hoping a new false ceiling will be acceptable as removal of asbestos would be a nightmare in the house.
Thanks as ever.
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www.direct.gov.uk/en/HomeAndCommunity/Planning/Doi...2 - HMG's advice on the issue.
The best solution is to make good the damaged ceiling, and leave the asbestos where it is.
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Cheers LY,
Was hoping that might be the case, will get onto the insurers.
Thanks for the link too.
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We had a water leak in the bathroom, water came through the downstairs kitchen ceiling. The plaster ceiling is ruined, and I have noticed it is in fact a false ceiling covering an old asbestos ceiling.
Send a sample to asbestoswatchdog, if they still "do" low-cost analysis, if you're worried.
The asbestos is undamaged, apart from the water. The water came through some old screw holes, then reached the plasterboard. What I need to know is whether the insurers will want the old asbestos ceiling removed, or is it perfectly normal in older (Edwardian in this case) houses to just cover it over?
It could be a '60s. refurb. with plasterboard over asbestos cement sheet, which was often used for fire resistance. The fibres of the asbestos re-inforce the matrix so that it doesn't collapse if it gets hot. Fortunately, they also prevent the release of free fibre, so it's not generally a problem unless machined (e.g. sawn) or bashed about.
Really hoping a new false ceiling will be acceptable as removal of asbestos would be a nightmare in the house.
What's a "false ceiling"? A suspended one? If so, just let the lot dry out, paint the asbestos board, and replace the ceiling.
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Paint the asbestos with 80% PVA and 20% water mixed to seal the surface and then screw 12.5mm plasterboard over, (Under). NOTE:- You will have to pilot hole the asbestos and therefore the plasterboard so a very accurate pilot hole will be required, enough to allow the screw shank free passage but not too large as to lose the head of the screw.
VBR...................MD
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Paint the asbestos with 80% PVA and 20% water mixed to seal the surface and then screw 12.5mm plasterboard over, (Under). NOTE:- You will have to pilot hole the asbestos
I would not be inclined to machine the sheeting in any way - drilling holes in it will free up dust and fibres which will drift around the place. It's a small risk, but avoidable. The point about not sinking screw heads through plasterboard is a good one - "drywall screws" ought to pull the outer paper surface in and end up flush with the surface, not break through into the plaster!
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I want to start building up a small share portfolio, I currently have a small 4 figure sum invested in some, but want to add to this. I would likely be investing £50-100 per month, so not a vast amount. What/which company would be best to do this with. i.e. who to buy them through for the least cost. And what is the best way to keep track of them?
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If you want control of the shares you're buying, then Selftrade have been pretty straightforward to deal with for me. Their tarding fee is a flat £12.50 whatever the trade size, with no inactivity fees. Opening a self-select ISA with them is also a doddle - if you don't have an ISA, I suggest you do it this way; you don't have to account for tax in any way at all. Also, in years to come, when your shares have increased in value, you won't have to pay capital gains tax. While that may not be a problem for some time, it's worth planning for. It will cost you an extra £25 annually, though. They have a good portfolio tracker as well, with an up-to-date valuation available online at any time.
As an alternative, get an index tracker ISA. The argument is too long to go into, but you'll be better off with that than any kind of "managed" fund, as it's charges that matter over the long-term. For a full discussion, try "The Motley Fool guide to UK investment". If you do go for a tracker, go for the lowest management fees. You can check these at: www.fsa.gov.uk/tables . Last time I looked, Fidelity had the lowest charges. By the way, the view that index trackers are better than managed may well spark an argument on here, but I'll stand by that statement unequivocally. If you want some slightly more heavyweight reading to find out the facts, try "A random walk down Wall Street".
V
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>>I want to start building up a small share portfolio, I currently have a small 4 figure sum invested in some, but want to add to this. I would likely be investing £50-100 per month, so not a vast amount.
warning - this is all personal opinion and not advice:
yours plan is actually quite a good strategy for the long term over 10, 20, 30, or more years.
1. invest your £50-£100 on a fixed day each month, and do not try to play the market. the advantage it gives you is known as "pound cost averaging". (look it up via google).
2. for such sums, you ideally want to avoid individual shares, and instead go for "funds" and proven good performers are "trackers" as also mentioned by vin in his reply. selftrade www.selftrade.co.uk/ have a mechanism to allow you to buy (free of commission within isa wrapper) these "trackers" in funds called "setf -exchange traded funds". they will charge £12.50 to sell.
3. if you really want to buy shares, then for the amounts you are talking about, i am aware of one company that suits your purpose - www.halifax.co.uk/sharedealing/sharebuilder.asp?SO...T - who will allow small regular purchases at just £1.50 per deal.
4. some of these online traders have a demo or a dummy portfolio facility where you can try out the system on a virtual share portfolio. search for these four terms on google: share virtual portfolio track
you need to look at a few of them to make sure you are happy with their sign-in security process. some are better than others, and one is particularly poor (but i won't name them due to naming and shaming policy).
remember, the values can go down as well as up, and the brokers/advisers are there to earn a living.
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Great replies guys, thanks very much for taking the time to type them.
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You may like to look at this from the London Stock Exchange.
www.londonstockexchange.com/en-gb/pricesnews/educa.../
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TU,
Terrific, very relevant, article in the Telegraph yesterday. Well worth the read.
www.telegraph.co.uk/money/main.jhtml?xml=/money/20...l
V
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Can nayone recommend a good garden shredder please? I would only use it about three times a year, with material up to 35mm diameter (but usually smaller).
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Any of the Bosch AXT range are good. Very quiet, powerful and pretty easy to unjam too. Instead of the usual frantically spinning blades you get a high-torque worm drive that crushes and cuts. Best with stuff with woody stems though, as green waste tends to tear off without getting pulled through the drive. If you can mix green with woody stems (leylandii cuttings as an example) it works a treat.
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Bosch AXT
Bought one of these last year, up to the job and actually made in Germany......nice bit of kit, mind your fingers though !
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Bosch AXT Bought one of these last year, up to the job and actually made in Germany......nice bit of kit, mind your fingers though !
I've got one as well ~ 2 kW jobbie ~ and it's impossible to get your fingers caught in it. The model number is AXT 2000HP, but I wish! It's much quieter than the flailing blades type.
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L\'escargot.
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I use a Viking, can't remember the model nbr but it's in the "stand back and chuck it in" range even though it's electric. Small electric shredders are a pain, you have to feed so little at a time.
JH
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Went to see my Auntie yesterday...89 years young this Friday. Her 35 year old 14" Tv no longer works...power to, but no picture so I assume CRT has gone. As I could not 'mend' it , she said she would ring her local tv repair man (do they still exist?) who could probably call round and repair it for a tenner!
Sadly disillusioned, she rang and asked if I could buy her a replacement. At her age, I think a separate Freeview box would be too confusing..she only wants BBC1 & YTV channels, (that nice Paul Hudson chappie) so I am going to be the good nephew and treat her to a 26" LCD and fix it on her wall.
Any suggestions as to 'cheapest' or best value. She thought Asda had them at £49.99!! It must have this digital thing which is being rolled out later this century.
p.s. My own tv has not been replaced since it broke a few years ago so I am not very savvy on this subject. Good job I have a wonderful local pub to while away the odd hour.
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Any of the top brands such as Sony, Panasonic, Toshiba, Sharp and Samsung make quality LCDs, but you need one with integrated Freeview (to cover the digital transmissions aspect).
You'll most probably realise when viewing various models that a non-HD compatible model will give the best results on the basic five terrestial channels, but will be pushed to find such a set these days as everyone insists on HD compatible.
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At her age, I think a separate Freeview box would be too confusing..she only wants BBC1 & YTV channels, (that nice Paul Hudson chappie) so I am going to be the good nephew and treat her to a 26" LCD and fix it on her wall. Any suggestions as to 'cheapest' or best value.
Hmm. If budget is any concern (don't forget that for a good purpose you can forge till receipts on your printer), either:
Buy a PVR and educate;
Downsize from your 26" and think about something like this:
www.kelkoo.homecinematv.co.uk/showproduct.php?cda=...1
(I hope that fits!) which has integrated Freeview, and is easy to use.
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Humax also does a similar 7in version which is the equivalent of a 19in CRT TV.
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Well worth a look at Richer Sounds for a good priced set.
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Well worth a look at Richer Sounds for a good priced set.
I'd echo that - especially have a look at their clearance section. Since you're unlikely to want the latest top-spec gadgets and specs, you could save a bundle.
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...the 1 is missing - of course it should be 17in.
My best mate sells a lot of the Humax models.
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>> At her age, .... Buy a PVR and educate;
You jest of course :-(
Educate the goons who design the PVR so that the basics are easy to use and THEN add all the clever bits.
IMO there is a big market out there for simple kit/
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