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Due to unfortunate circumstances, my wife and I has come in to possession of a Sinclair Microvision.
A 1970's 2" screened 'pocket' telly which we have to sell and give the proceeds to charity.
Pictures here:
tinyurl.com/ysctoa
tinyurl.com/yupafn
I've googled it, and apart a site that tells its history, tinyurl.com/yqxfwu, and another that has them listed at approx £160, there is not a lot of info about what it's worth.
There's one on ebay that went for £46 quid, and another that is yet to finish.
What I am thinking is, is ebay really the best place to get the most for it?
I know something is only worth what people will pay for it but is there anywhere else I could try to get the most for it?
Can I have some advice please, after all it is for charadee.
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Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed
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I think a lot depends on whether it works or not; does it? It uses rechargeable batteries, do they work and are replacements available? Might a museum make you an offer for it? In the end whatever the charity gets for it will be money they don't have today and a good price might be a lot less effort than the best price although you obviously want to get a good sale. E bay would probably shift it but the price might not be marvellous. Really depends on condition and whether it can be seen working. In the end there are portable colour TVs and mobile cameras that receive colour pictures. There won't be much demand for a big clunky B/W TV I would have thought - novelty value only IMHO
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It works fine and is in really good condition complete with it's leather case. It uses a square 9v battery and can be run from a mains adaptor, which I don't have, can also be plugged into an external ariel too.
It's definately not something for everyday use, more fora collector or as you say, novelty value.
I think in my complete lack of knowledge about it I thought it would be worth more, being one of the first micro TVs and in such good condition.
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Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed
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My grand-dad used a scythe ~ very quick and very easy once you got the knack. In fact whole fields of corn would be cut with one before the invention of binders. I still have one of his scythe sharpening stones.
--
L\'escargot.
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The sheep idea is a good one. A chap I used to know had a large orchard and paddock and each spring he'd get two or three lambs, graze them until the autumn then put them in the freezer. I suppose the paperwork would make this less attractive these days.
Failing that, a good flail mower is your best bet.
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> ...two or three lambs, graze them until the autumn then put them in the freezer.
There's an important step between the grazing and the freezer and that's where the problems can arise, although provided you're not trying to sell the meat there shouldn't be too much paperwork. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in the River Cottage Cookbook tells you what you'll need to know and makes it sound such fun you'll want to try it.
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I pass a horse paddock every day. It's about 60m by 15m and from time to time I see a weathered old bloke cutting it with a scythe. It's fascinating to watch, it looks completely effortless and when I pass the next day it's all done.
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The sheep would eat the flowers, would need a lot of temporary fencing. Nice idea though, maybe a goat tied to a tree :o), Would have to be a borrowed goat as we are not there year round.
We have a few scythes and I tried it, getting the swing right is difficult, and the blade will not cut through the clumps.
Can't afford a flail, so it's definately a choice between a motor scythe old or new and a big flymo (sent email to flymo - suspect they will say not suitable).
Thanks everyone
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Try asking for an Allen Scythe on your local freecycle group. You might also try borrowing one if you have a local small-holders group. Finally I just put Allen Scythe into ebay and came up with 21 entries!
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A couple of weeks back I asked for advice on a digibox that didn't need a TV set with a scart socket. Praise was heaped on the Humax.
It arrived yesterday and after a bit of fiddling about finding a good channel ( well what do you expect with a manual tuning 23 year-old Sony set ) it works just fine - thanks again.
Most annoyingly it looks like the free to air Sky channels (Sky News, Sky Sports News) might soon be dropped and become pay per view - but that's another story.
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I know wev'e discussed freezers and garages in IHAQ before, so someone must be able to enlighten me
We have recently put a small upright freezer in the garage. The freezer has a formica-type top, and there always seems to be a puddle of water on it - clear it off, and the next time we go to the garage, it's there again. Any idea why, and what we can do ?
And no, the freezer is not under a leak in the garage roof ! ;-)
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I would guess that the warm air from the heat pump that cools the freezer is condensing on the top due to a poor level of insulation. I doubt if there is anything you can do about it other than place a piece of 2" thick polystyrene on the formica to increase the insulation.
It might pay to send an email to the manufacturer to see their comments.
--
Roger
A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.
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Friends and family are pleased with the bread I have made on this machine over two years - but I am not. Whatever type I make, there seems always to be a characterstic, unpleasant taste to the bread. They can taste it but don't mind it. It is impossible to describe but is there for all types and Panasonic themselves can't explain. Has anyone had a similar experience and have they been able to do anything about it?
Incidentally, nearly all Panasonic's bread recipes call for added milk powder, sugar and butter. I think they are better without any of them.
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Friends and family are pleased with the bread I have made on this machine over two years - but I am not. Whatever type I make, there seems always to be a characterstic, unpleasant taste to the bread.
...
Incidentally, nearly all Panasonic's bread recipes call for added milk powder, sugar and butter. I think they are better without any of them.
That is your answer. I suggest a little more salt too.
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I know it is not the purpose of a bread machine, to buy packets of bread mix but why not try one, just for an experiment? T*sc*'s own brand white mix is 54p amd works a treat, and if you don't like the birds will eat it!
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I personally think the dried yeast gives a tang to the bread, so I always use fresh yeast instead and then the only problem that I encountered was that the bread tasted so damned good. that I consumed far too much and gained a mungus amount of weight. - Just can`t win.!!!!!
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I know it is not the purpose of a bread machine, to buy packets of bread mix but why not try one, just for an experiment?
We only use pre-packed bread mixes in ours now. Results were variable adding all the ingredients ourselves, but are always consistent with a packet. We buy Wright's mixes from Morrisons which are good, they have bread machine instructions on them. We mainly get a mixed grain one and add extra sesame, pumpkin, sunflower seeds, and pine kernels.
www.wrightsflour.co.uk/shopping/display1.asp
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Have you tried making one of the recipes by hand and comparing it? Then you'll know if it's the recipe or the breadmaker.
You might also find (like I have) the therapeutic qualities of kneading by hand. I make ours weekly on a Saturday morning - using dried yeast - and really enjoy the work. I'd certainly never add milk powder (though I do sometimes use 50% milk if I feel like it). I also always use a dessertspoon of sugar per 1.5lb of flour. Oddly, I would never countenance NOT using fat of some kind; I generally add a liberal splash of olive oil (up to as much as 5tbsp if I want a ciabatta type of bread). I've always considered it vital. In deference to your opinion, I'll try it without this week.
V
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Fat and salt are vital, although you may not consciously taste them in the finished bread. We tend to make pizza on Friday evenings, and I find you get a better, crisper base without the oil, but if I let a spare ball of pizza dough rise and bake it as a loaf, the result is barely edible. The same ingredients, but with about 20g of sunflower oil in 500g of flour, will bake into a beautifully crusty white loaf. I also like the Sandwich program of the SD253, although I use only flour, sugar, yeast, salt, oil and water to make it. I use Sainsbury's white flour, which has a higher protein content than even the 'super strong' branded flours and costs about half as much.
Sugar, incidentally, is just to give the yeast something to get it going, so you don't need much. Once it's established, the yeast's own amylase will break the wheat starch down to more sugar. I haven't tried but you might get away without it altogether if you use the full-length programs. Oil and salt affect gluten formation, although too much oil inhibits it, which is why a ciabatta is so flat. I haven't tried fresh yeast but I will now.
My absolute favourite recipe has to be this: dried yeast, 250g each Hovis Wholemeal and Hovis Granary flour, 20g sunflower oil, a little sugar and salt and 365g (not 365ml) warm water. I then put this on the Whole Wheat Rapid programme (I've never succeeded with the full-length one) or tip it onto a tray and bake it in the oven. A big hunk of proper cheese, some chutney, a good tomato and an apple and I'm a happy wildebeest.
A sound investment is a simple electronic balance. I have a £25 Salter one from Argos and it really helps, especially since it can measure water more precisely than I can in a jug, and getting the water right is critical to the result.
My SD253 is two years old and has been a huge positive influence on family life. It takes some perseverance to get the best out of it but it's well worth the effort.
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The dried milk powder is often used in recipes for sweet dough mixes - doughnuts, hot cross buns, etc. and very occasionally for bread as it helps make a softer finished bread. It is probably recommended as machines tend to produce quite a tough texture. If you are not using the powdered milk you may need a tad less water, depending on the absorbancy of the flour.
As WillDeBeest says, the sugar is to feed the yeast and get it working so is important in a bread machine where the proving time is controlled by the machine rather than the cook - vitamin C (level tsp should do it) will also help with the process - you can buy it in crystal form from the chemist (ascorbic acid) and is particularly recommended if you are making wholemeal bread. If you want to try fresh yeast (which you can freeze in small cubes) I sometimes buy mine from the bakers in Tesco! I have not tried fresh in the machine yet, although I don't see it as a problem. Cream the yeast with the sugar in a jug then slowly add the (recipe amount of) tepid water and allow it to stand for a while until is bubbles, then follow recipe as usual.
The butter or oil is to help the keeping properties and helps with the texture.
You might find adding 1 cup of ordinary flour to two cups of strong flour will help - it is certainly better for buns.
We have found that allowing our machine to mix the dough then tipping it into a tip for final proving and baking works well. One of the problems with baking a yeast mix, like a cake/pastry, it that it is better put into a hot oven immediately for the initial rise and texture. It also cooks the loaf in a different way - machines rather steam the loaf and have to contend with heating up slowly (for bread) - again this woud affect the flavour (think of a steamed. opposed to a baked jam rolypoly - same ingredients, different taste/texture)
Finally, home made is brilliant if you (or any member of the family) needs to work out a little rage, road or other, as the harder you knead, better the loaf. Machines are also wonderful if you want trouble free, easy, additive free bread.
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We have the same machine and we miss the sugar out altogether. Fat is optional for us but seems to improve the texture/reduce the size of the holes. though we often use sunflower maragarine instead of butter. and cut it down a bit. I usually include the milk powder. Leaving out the sugar seems to make little or no difference to rising, even on the short program. I have just made a 70% wholemeal middle sized loaf, no sugar, a little margarine, slightly less salt than the recipe, and it was fine on the short cycle. I do tend to use tepid water rather than clap cold.
The main drawback I find is the crust which is never up to much due to the 'steaming' atmosphere of the confined space it bakes in. Programming a darker crust just seems to make the bottom and sides tougher without improving the top, and makes the blade stick in the bread as well.
Quite acceptable though - and I prefer fresh machine bread to supermarket stuff, if not to new 'proper' bread.
I would suggest trying different, non-machine, recipes, just adjusting the water to the machine ratios.
Bread mixes seem to work OK (I like the Hovis Granary) but they do seem to contain a fair assortment of chemicals.
I'm surprised at the number of male motoring enthusiasts who are conversant with bread-making.
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Come on Manatee, you are talking about a gadget here!!! This female knows a little having been a home economist in a previous life!
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What sort of oil are you using? I used to use olive oil (which I use for virtually everything culinary, save for the deep fat fryer), and noted a strange chemically taste. Having run out of olive oil, I used ordinary sunflower oil and the taste disappeared.
Lidl do some superb bread mixes - 95p for enough to make two loaves.
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Hi. I've been reading loads on the internet on how to stop our dogs fighting and its doing my head in. I'm reading, dont break them up - do break them up - let them get on with it - dont do this - do do that.ARRGGGHH!!!!
Anyone now a sure fire way to stop the dogs in their tracks once they start? (I dont know what else to do).
We have a 12 year old westie and a 2 year old yorkie cross westie. Both are female.
We have tried water, noise etc but once they start....
They normally start when someone/people come around (not normally straight away, its after awhile, sometimes when food is about (just having a buscuit can start it). It even can start for what seems like no reason.
Cheers for any help.
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Assuming the Westie was joined by the younger dog, it's probably territory related with the younger dog attempting to take over the mantle of "pack leader" and gain the favours of potential male counterparts.
This link might also help, although the circumstances are somewhat different in some aspect:
tinyurl.com/25jmcc
Also from Page 51 on this link there is some useful advice:
tinyurl.com/yuvzg8
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Stick the boot in...
I *think* I'm joking about that, but on the other hand it's how my dad used to break up the fights between our dogs when I was a kid. I used to think it was cruel, and I used to break them up by pulling them apart.
I still have the scars on the backs of my hands, and his was was certainly more effective.
With the benefit of adult knowledge, it wasn't so much a kick he employed as a firm push apart with the boot, combined with a loud shout to tell them they were misbehaving.
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How do you disciple the dogs when they do other naughty things? What action tells them their behaviour is unacceptable generally?
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I worked as a Dog Handler on a local authoritie's parks section many moons ago. Occassionaly two German Shepards would take a dislike to each other and the fur would fly if they got the chance. The safest way to seperate fighting dogs is to run between them and literally knock them apart. Grabbing them with your hands is going to be very painful as they will automatically go for you.
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How do you disciple the dogs when they do other naughty things? What action tells them their behaviour is unacceptable generally?
Just by saying no or clicking my fingers. They are both normally very good and obey 99% of commands. But nothing stops them when they turn into the tazmanian devil.
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I agree with Robin (it's sort of what I was trying to say with the boot stuff). Knock them apart. I'd combine it with a verbal command, but a proper angry bellow of No, rather than a calm command. Make them know you're the boss!
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You need some sort of remote control electric shock treatment, then do things which generally start them off, and shout NO followed by electric shocks to both of them. It will need to be designed to not cause permanent harm like a tazer is designed for humans. So you'll want a dog tazer which is strapped to thier torso.
I don't know if such a thing exists - but it wouldn't surprise me if it does exist.
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Unfortunately the namby pambies have decided it has to be banned
www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200607/cmbills...l
There's no difference between this and a smack IMO, it's just using technology to make the whole processs a lot more convienient. Like any punishment abuse can occur, but the abuse should be dealt with case by case, not by banning a perfectly good training device.
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I´m finding it difficult to stop laughing at the thought of Tazering a pair of Westies. Sorry.
Dog discipline from the comfort of your sofa - keep it by the remote controls.
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I´m finding it difficult to stop laughing at the thought of Tazering a pair of Westies. Sorry. Dog discipline from the comfort of your sofa - keep it by the remote controls.
ZAP!! Quick fix. Problem solved. lol
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Unfortunately the namby pambies have decided it has to be banned www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200607/cmbills...l
It' s a Private Members Bill; probably won't become law.
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Dogs are pack animals. It has to be recognised and appropriate steps taken to ensure that you are the "pack leader."
It's not rocket science, but something that has gone on for thousands of years.
If the Westies continue to give problems, a dog behavioural expert should/will provide the answer.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Try looking here www.companyofanimals.co.uk/abc.php
Roger Mugford knows his stuff.
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from reading the bill, you are allowed to use a "proximity collar" - stick one on each hound and sit back an watch them zap each other automaticcally when they get near each other! - ala "Simpsons!".
Anyway the bill states that its banning Electric Training Devices, you could say your not training the hounds not to fight, just trying to prevent it for thier own good. :-)
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How about taking them out of the situation? When visitors arrive they can greet, then put elsewhere away from competition for treats and attention. This could be in a puppy cage if you have one. Slowly increase time they can stay around if they behave, but back to plan a when they fight. I agree that it sounds like a bid for pack leader, which should, of course, be you. Our collie hates to be excluded from proceedings and knows at the point he has been over pushy and almost goes to his corner without prompting.
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Just wondering how fellow backroomers dispose of their used light bulbs. Recycle centres are n't interested and not supposed to put them in the bin disposal.
(i've told the kids that if you plant them they will grow into street lamps but we've enough of those around our way already.)
_______
IanS
{moves reply to correct place in thread, as per the PLEASE NOTE message at the top - DD}
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Light bulbs cannot be recycled. Wrap them up and put them in your domestic waste bin or bag. Fluorescent tubes are classed as hazardous waste and must be disposed of by a licensed waste management company ~ I've no doubt you have a council "Civic Amenity Site" nearby which will accept them.
--
L\'escargot.
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Ikea, for one, take back CFL bulbs for recycling (they're considered hazardous because there's a small amount of mercury in them). Filament bulbs just have to go in the bin.
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Light bulbs cannot be recycled. Wrap them up and put them in your domestic waste bin or bag. Fluorescent tubes are classed as hazardous waste and must be disposed of by a licensed waste management company ~ I've no doubt you have a council "Civic Amenity Site" nearby which will accept them. -- L\'escargot.
That's interesting. The binmen took a flourescent tube I left out a few months ago. Maybe different councils have different policies.
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<< The binmen took a flourescent tube I left outa few months ago.
Binmen don't always stick strictly to the rules. I don't suppose their wage is enough to encourage them to be that finicky.
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L\'escargot.
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See:
www.phs.co.uk/wastemanagement/products/2848.html?e...1
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Pop them in the wheelie bin!
Fluorescent tubes are classed as hazardous waste and must be disposed of by a licensed waste management company I've no doubt you have a council "Civic Amenity Site" nearby which will accept them.
Kingston's main site has a very small steel box for such tubes.
I can only assume that either it is very regularly emptied or there is not a high useage :-(((
With latest idea in OZ to ban ordinary bulbs the question of disposal has been raised.
I read in the press today that in Europe flourecent tubes are the main exemption re using mercury.
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Hi,
our village green is getting eroded in places by vehicles cutting corners. We (the parish council) want to do something to protect it. The problem with hard kerbs or posts is that inconsiderate parking may make access to the school impossible for the delivery vans/refuse lorry etc(there is a lane with a tight corner)
I have seen something called grasscrete which is a sort of concrete lattice that the grass can grow through - but I think it looks rather ugly.
Has anyone any suggestions for any similar products which might be more acceptable ?
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If you had hard kerbs couldn't you then apply to have yellow lines with signs controlling who and at what times could park there?
I'm interested in the "grasscrete". It could be the solution to our problem of thoughtles and inconsiderate drivers churning up the edge of the grass verge outside our house ~ we haven't got a pavement, just the verge.
--
L\'escargot.
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I have finally qualified for a shared ownership new build flat, seemingly the only way to get onto the property ladder in this area, unless you want to live somewhere where you wouldn't want to live on your own.
There are six flats in the block (two on each floor). Someone else took my first choice plot, and the ground floor is all gone, so my first question is...
Given the choice of first or second floor, with second being the top, which would you choose? The view is virtually the same in both as they're on the same part of the building. The second floor one comes with loft space, but the first floor has less stairs!
Second question is, if the total amount of the flat that I am actually buying comes to less than the stamp duty threshold, but the value of the flat is over the threshold, do I have to pay stamp duty? I know someone who ended up not paying it, but I'm getting conflicting opinons.
What's the difference between a conveyancer and a solicitor? I think I have a rough idea, but not 100% sure.
Thank you
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I'd go for the second floor flat PG, on the basis there's then no potential problem with noisy upstairs neighbours.
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Second floor for me. No noise from above.
A conveyancer is someone who is an expert in the purchase and sales of land and property, as a result their services are usually cheaper than a solicitor.
The Stamp Duty question doesn't have a yes or no answer. There are a number of circumstances and scenarois which need to be considered. You will need to take advice from your legal advisor who should have knowledge of dealing with shared ownership schemes.
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Having bought half a house before, you pay stamp duty on the price you pay. If the price you pay is under the threshold, good times!
Second floor flats command a slight premium over first floor, about £5,000 in Bristol. Maybe not important now, but useful when you sell. How do i know? Just sold 24 flats, and the second floor flats went for £5000 or 4% more than the first floors.
HTH
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Mare - unless you have bought a shared ownership property in the last couple of years your experience may not now be the case. There were major alterations to stamp duty laws and procedures to close loopholes (and no doubt raise more cash for HM Treasury) a couple of budgets ago so to say you pay stamp duty on the price you pay may not be strictly true. You need to take into account the lease element of the purchase too and this may attract stamp duty.
More info at:
tinyurl.com/34md8m
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dave, that link's quite interesting - PG, get some proper advice from an accountant. My experience wasn't shared ownership, it was a different sort of transaction, but it was half a house.
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Take the second floor flat - no noisy upstairs neighbours AND no passing traffic outside your door from the top floor occupants coming and going.
AFAIK, a conveyancer only deals with the sale of houses, whereas a solicitor deals with all legal matters including the sale of houses.
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Top floor every time - and look at the loft space as a considerable bonus for storage purposes!
Since it is a new build there is presumably equally shared joint responsibilty under the lease for roof maintenance. The down side of this is that you cannot then adapt the loft space as living space.
Some older prperties have leases that are not so tightly thought through.
--
pmh (was peter)
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If a watch has on it 50m. What does it mean?
I remember years ago it didnt mean water resistant to 50m, it ment spash/shower proof or something along those lines.
Cheers
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On the back of my watch it says "Water resistant 10 bar". In the guarantee instructions it says is that the watch is designed and manufactured to withstand up to 10 bar pressure. It qualifies this by saying say that it is suitable for taking a bath and shallow diving but not for scuba diving. There is then the following explanatory note . " Pressure in bar is a test pressure and should not be considered as corresponding to actual diving depth since swimming movement tends to increase the pressure at a given depth. Care should also be taken on diving into water."
If I remember correctly 50m depth corresponds to roughly 5 bar pressure. My warranty instructions say that a 5 bar watch is suitable for swimming, yachting and taking a shower.
When I had a new battery put in my watch the jeweller pointed out that the water resistance had been compromised because the back/case seal had been disturbed and it could no longer be assumed to be as good as when it first left the factory.
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L\'escargot.
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When I had a new battery put in my watch the jeweller pointed out that the water resistance had been compromised because the back/case seal had been disturbed and it could no longer be assumed to be as good as when it first left the factory. -- L\'escargot.
I have had this problem as well. I had a new battery put in a relatively expensive Seiko and now if I it gets very warm - me exercising for example - it mists up.
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I have had this problem as well. I had a new battery put in a relatively expensive Seiko and now if I it gets very warm - me exercising for example - it mists up.
Mine's a Seiko. It was awarded for 25 years "loyal service" ~ I agree with the 25 years but I think my employer was misguided if they thought it was "loyal"!
When you're not wearing your watch try keeping your it in the airing cupboard.
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L\'escargot.
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L,
hmm, didn't you get the "would you like a pressure test sir, for £x?" treatment?
JH
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ditto the misting up on my watch post new battery, was told by jeweller that removing the back had let the Nitrogen that it was filled with (to prevent misting) escape. unfortunately he didn't supply a re-fill service, and as it was an oldish watch he didn't think it worthwhile returning to makers to have it re-filled. Maybe you could find an Instrument Manufacturer in your area that may be able to do it cheaply for you?
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Found this (dont know how correct it is)?...
The meaning of 'water-resistance' in a watch
Water resistance is measured in bars or atmospheres. (1 bar is equivalent to 1 atmosphere). These watches are tested at pressures under strict controlled environment for a certain period of time, if the test is passed, the watch is certified water-resistant at that particular depth.
For example, a watch that says ?Water resistant to 30atm? can withstand the depth and pressure associated with the depth of 30m or 3 atm ( 1 atm is equals to 10m).
Yet, one may realize that when such a watch, that is water-resistant to 30m, water may enter when swimming in a 1.2m deep pool. You may then wonder that the watch is faulty. Fret not, as this is not due to the watch?s manufacturing defect.
When swimming, the strong eddy currents of the water pass along the watch as your hands sweeps through the water. Such currents will result in a higher pressure than a depth of 30m exerts, which affects the watch?s water resistance.
There are other reasons for this lack of water resistance as well. For example, the crown may not be secured tightly hence water can seep through; the continual expansion and contraction of the materials that make up the watch, gaskets and seals due to temperature changes will also cause this problem. Sometimes even the wear and tear of the rubber-based gaskets that were supposed to ?waterproof? the watch will also result in the same phenomenon.
Ideally, if you are engaging in water-sports, wear a watch with the crown screwed down so that the water will not seep through when tightly closed. A general rule of thumb with water-resistance watches are as follows:
30m/100ft/3 atm ? Suitable for daily use, able to withstand gentle splash such as rain, however, unsuitable for swimming and bathing.
50m/165ft/5 atm ? Suitable for daily use, swimming. Ensure crown and case are screw-down.
100m/330ft/10atm ? Suitable for daily use, poolside diving, swimming and snorkelling. Ensure crown and case are screw-down.
150m/500ft/15 atm ? Suitable for daily use, snorkelling and skin diving. Ensure case and crown is screw-down.
200m/660ft/20 atm ? Suitable for daily use, scuba diving. Ensure crown and case are screw-down.
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"Water resistant to 50m" means the watch will remain waterproof placed at the bottom of a 50m high column of static water. But as ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond points out above, the level of water resistance you need for actual use is quite different!
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Anyone have anythoughts about which would be the better holiday destination? And any recommended spots in either location?
Am asking on behalf of a colleague. Youngish couple with a 3 year old girl, and they´re looking at going in high summer season, and for a villa (I think).
Personally I thought they were barking mad, as both places would surely be ferociously hot, but maybe I´m wrong.
Any comments, as always, gratefully received.
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I think Sardinia would be marginally cooler and houses/villas might have aircon. Greece probably hotter and less chance of aircon. A 3 year old will be have to smothered in sun cream and kept out of the direct sun for the whole holiday at either location. I will try and find some weather and temp stats and post here.
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Old records show that, on average temperatures in Alghero Sardinia in May/June/July/Aug will be over 27C and Athens in the same months will be over 30C. Also bear in mind that these are the temps measured in a proper met station - it will be way hotter out in the sun !
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Thought as much. My choice for them would have been Brittany, but there you go. Maybe keeping the kid locked up inside all day is a high priority for them on holiday.
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My parents were regular visitors to Greece during August due to mum working in a school. Their last visit was two years ago and it was the 4th or 5th where 40 degs was experienced.
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Thanks all for the advice received. Will be passing it on.
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I have read on another thread the comment that you cannot get a visa to visit the USA if you have a drink-driving conviction; does anyone know the full deails, such as how long the ban lasts?
Do you have to declare the ban, even years later, does it affect car-hire and insurance; in fact is the claim true in the first case?
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Discussed at length in the last 48 hours here
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=49...6
General opinion seems to be that with any convictions you can't take part in the visa waiver programme and when you do apply a for a visa and deny any convictions you will get one, if you admit to convictions you probably won't and if you deny having any and their checks reveal that you have will be in DEEP!
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Armitage Shanks has quoted the thread which I read that sparked this enquiry.
It seems difficult to belive that a drink-driving offence could bar entry to the USA, when it would not even come into the frame when travelling to say, France or Germany (no visa required, hence no questions).
If this claim is true and a single conviction will exclude one from entering the US, then for how long will the bar remain?
Just curious, although I do know of at least one drink-driver who has visited the US and hired cars there without any difficulty prior to 9/11.
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Spospe - sorry to run you round in circles! Unless you have typed incorrectly (like what I do a lot) the answer is in the last line of your post. A driver with a conviction had no trouble hiring a car PRIOR TO 9/11. There may still not be a problem hiring a car in these circumstances but you won't even be able to get into USA to do the hiring! 9/11 changed everything
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May I claim, with all due modesty, to be something of an expert on this subject!!
Firstly you do not normally need to get a Visa to enter the USA, you can enter for a period of up to 90 days on a Visa Waiver.
The Visa Waiver application form(I-94W) which you are given at the airport contains one question relevant to this discussion.(all in one convoluted sentence)
"have you ever been arrested of convicted for an offense(sic) or crime involving moral turpide or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was 5 years or more; or been a controlled substance trafficker; or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities?"
That raises the question ?"what is an offense involving moral turpitude?" Well there is no definitive answer to that question. However the precedents set by USA courts are for very serious charges and specifically exclude DUI(Driving under Influence) even for the third time in most legal sites.
However if you want further guidance you can look up the various USA immigration websites and you will be no wiser!
If you ring the USA embassy in London(at £1.50 a min) they will not discuss this matter and tell you to come for an interview.
Now the problem. If you look up the US Embassy website for UK it clearly states if you have ever been arrested ? for any reason, even if not charged of found not guilty, you are ineligible to enter on a Visa waiver.
However this exact same waiver form(in English) is used by many Nationalities and if you read the various websites for those Nations it is often not so stringent on the arrest condition.
The above is factual. Now for conjecture!
It is the clear intent of the USA to exclude those with a serious criminal record. If a 'simple' arrest excluded you from using a waiver, why the convoluted question on the form?(moral turpitude 5 years confinement etc) A simple "have you ever been arrested?" would suffice.
Personally with an arrest for drink driving I would with a clear conscience feel able to answer No to the relevant question on the I-94W and use the visa waiver. I know that many people do so.
However if you don't wish to take that chance then you can apply to the US Embassy for a visitors Visa. This involves obtaining a memorandum of conviction from the court, an interview in London(or Belfast), payment of a fee.
Anecdotal evidence suggests it is not normal to refuse a Visa for a single drink driving conviction.
All in all the whole situation is a total mess.
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Thanks for the clarification Cardew! I am actually none the wiser but I am much better informed! Reminds me of the McCarthy era in USA when huge forms had to filled in to gain entry. The acerbic author, Auberon Waugh, was given such a form to fill in. Somewhere in the middle of page 5 was the question "Is it your intention during your visit to attempt violence on the President or overthrow the legitimate government of USA?" He wrote "Sole purpose of visit" and still got a visa which shows how much use the forms were and are!
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Given the puritanical outlook of Middle America, I suspect Waugh's comment might be relevant to this part of the question:
"...or are you seeking entry to engage .... in immoral activities?"
Not thee, or me, of course!
This subject is being further discussed in the Drink Driving thread.
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Thanks folks. It looks like the answer is unclear (or at least ambiguous) on the drink-driving front, but I do wonder how Gerry Adams gets into the USA?
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Gerry Adams has a special visa requirements placed on him. His visa is revokable and sometimes is depending on how the US presidency feels about him on the day.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thanks folks. It looks like the answer is unclear (or at least ambiguous) on the drink-driving front, but I do wonder how Gerry Adams gets into the USA?
There is not normally a problem in getting a visitors Visa for the USA. It is however a lot of trouble and expense. Even with a serious criminal record you will normally get a visa if you have been out of trouble for some years. Maggie Thatcher's son Mark was refused a Visa(and his ex-wife and children live in the USA) because of his involvement in the 'gun running' case in South Africa.
The $64,000 question is can you enter on a waiver? it depends on how you interpret the I-94W question and what(if any) US embassy website you read. If those of us 'whot speeks proper englesh' can't work it out, what chance have all the other Nationalities who use the same form?
In the real world they answer 'No' and there is close to zero chance of them being denied entry.
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Afternoon all,
I have just recieved this email from one of our other committee members, asking me what i think of it?, - the short answer is "I haven't got a clue"".
However, as i'm the treasurer, I think i "should" know something about the issue stated, can anybody out there enlighten me as to the legality of this please?
(Email posted in it's entirety - sorry!)
thanks
Billy
Warning to club members on debts
By Bob Howard
BBC Radio 4's Money Box
A wallet with money in it
Some club members have already been chased for debts
Members of sports and working men's clubs are being warned they may be liable for debts if their clubs fold.
This is because many are unincorporated and so have no legal entity.
That means if they close owing money, a creditor can go after the individual members and not just the club's assets.
The Working Men's Club and Institute Union has written to more than 1,000 clubs urging them to change their status and incorporate to avoid their members being personally sued.
Kevin Smyth, the general secretary of the Working Men's Club and Institute Union, said members are already acting.
Speaking to BBC Radio 4's Money Box programme he said: "We are concerned. We have written to all our clubs alerting them to the problem and encouraging them to switch
"Five or six clubs came in today and said yes, can you help change our rules."
Personally liable Kay Kettle was the treasurer of a social club in Ascot in Berkshire.
Five years ago, the members borrowed £15,000 from Young's Brewery to refurbish it.
When the club closed in 2005, Kay didn't realise that she and the other members would be personally liable to pay back the outstanding debt.
It's made me very wary, I would never join another club Kay Kettle, former club member
Young's solicitors are trying to get all the members to contribute, but because Kay was a home owner and had been a signatory on the loan agreement, a charge has now been put on her house.
That means, if the other members do not help pay back the £3,000 outstanding on the loan, it will be taken from Kay when her property is sold.
Young's told Money Box its duty is to shareholders and this should serve as a warning to other clubs.
But Kay thinks that is unjust: "It was just a tiny little club that we tried everything possible to keep going. It's made me very wary, I would never join another club."
Sports clubs Robert Thomas is a partner at RH Jeffs & Rowe which specialises in doing the accounts for sports and social clubs.
He said by the time the members realise there is a problem, it is often too late.
"The problem with many members clubs is they were set up by a group of friends as unincorporated clubs, which means they have no legal status," he said.
"If someone wishes to sue the club they cannot go against the club as a legal entity, they have to sue the individual officers or members."
Money Box has discovered that one former club treasurer in the Midlands is being pursued for almost £40,000.
Sports clubs are also at risk of being sued, although cases so far have been around the issue of personal injuries rather than debt.
The Rugby Football Union estimates that of its 1,200 senior clubs, only around a quarter are incorporated.
It is also about to write to its clubs advising them to consider changing their status.
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It is absolutely true, and not 'news' although Moneybox brought it up last week.
Think about it: if you smash a neighbour's window with your football, you have to pay to repair it.
Now, you and your chums form a football club, and smash a neighbour's window (you all kicked the ball at once, imagine).
What do you think the situation is? Just because it's a 'club' doesn't mean that the window wasn't broken(!); nor does it mean that you don't have to pay for a replacement.
So (broadly speaking) you can all be sued for a debt incurred by a club.
Say your club rents a village hall every week, and one year the membership fees fail to raise enough to pay the bill; well you'll all contribute a bit more. And if you aren't happy to, then the courts will make you.
It is to get around this basis of unlimited liability that Companies were invented to allow businesses not to make their owner bankrupt if the business fails.
A Company can have exactly the same benefit for a members club.
However, what are the risks associated with your club. In general, my view is that it is not worth incorporating (running the club through a company) unless you undertake dangerous activities and run the risk of being sued. You have to file accounts at Companies House. You have to appoint Directors. Being a Director of a Company is a serious matter.
If your club has significant assets (particularly land and buildings, or shares) then you will probably incur CGT if you transfer them into a company.
And in the example above, the bank would probably have wanted personal guarantees from the club members anyway - banks aren't stupid, they know that a company would allow members to wriggle out of the debt. If you set up a private company for your own business and borrow money from a bank, they will probably want YOU to guarantee it personally anyway.
Tell us a bit more about your club. How many members? Annual income? Activity?
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Thanks Mapmaker,
I am ?slightly? more enlightened now!
Our ?club? is Sea-Sports based (mainly small boat angling), and all members join at own risk, although we do have third party insurance through the N.F.S.A.
In the course of our ?activities? there are several potentials for serious injury to both members (of which we have 78) and to the public ? i.e boats sinking. People drowning, folk being injured by or by using the Tractors, or by wire-ropes/straps snapping whilst towing. (we launch from a public beach). Luckily, none of the above has happened in the 23 years we have been running. We own a couple of acres of S.S.I land and a largish building where we store the tractors and equipment.
At present we do not have any debts, but due to lack of commitment by other club members, the ?committee? is in a real shaky position, having only 5 members, 3 of whom are not standing for re-election at the A.G.M in April.
It is sad but it looks at the moment that the club may be forced to ?suspend?, until a committee can be found and formed, hence my original question regarding the Email.
By ?incorporating? I now take it that it means forming a ltd co, as opposed to merging with other clubs?
Cheers
Billy.
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I'm involved with an amateur rugby club which has just merged with another club. The issue of members (and trustees) liabilities is potentially becoming very onerous. As a result rugby clubs are generally becoming incorporated as Industrial and Provident Societies as this is the RFU model constitution. The club therefore moves from being a private members club to a company limited by guarantee and registers as a community amateur sports club. The big advantages are limited liability and are exempt from a number of taxes including CGT on the sale of assets.
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With those sort of potential liabilities, I'd incorporate.
You do need proper advice from a firm of solicitors, including TAX advice as you have assets. Don't stint on it - budget £1 - 3,000.
>The big advantages are limited liability and are exempt from a number of taxes including CGT on the sale of assets
From what I recall when I looked at the issue some years ago, there are restrictions on who can become an IPS (Industrial and Prov... Soc.....) Likewise a CASC (Community Amateur Sports Club). You may not wish to give all members of the general public access to your facilities.
What about CGT on the transfer of assets IN to the club? You may find that the sensible model is for the trustees to continue to hold the land and buildings, and to permit the club to use them - whether by way of lease or licence. (More legal fees, I'm afraid.) (I presume that the land is currently held by trustees - an unincorporated society is unable to hold land, it has to be held, on trust, by real people. It's probably a bare trust, rather than any other sort of trust, just if your lawyers ask.)
A bonus of incorporation, whilst leaving the land in the hands of trustees, is that the members of the club do not own the land. A common worry with high land values is that a group of members will join and then vote to wind up the club and distribute the proceeds from sale of the asset.
ALTERNATIVELY, what level of public liability insurance do you have? Again, the last time I looked at it, the largest PL claim was from the GNER (?) rail disaster when the landrover driver drove off the motorway embankment. IIRC the insurance company was holding a provision of £20m ish. If you have (as I'm sure you do) £2m PL insurance, then it's quite possibly not worth the effort of incorporation, although of course I cannot comment on the levels of risk for your sort of club.
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Oh yes, and "what does incorporate mean?"
Imagine yourself as a market trader. You buy vegetables from a wholesaler, and sell them to the general public. You are what is called a sole trader. Any money you make, or lose, is yours.
You are worried that somebody will slip on a rotten plum and break a leg and sue you. So you decide that you will run the business through a company - the company only owns a few lemons, whereas you have a nice house. You already own a market stall, some mouldy lemons etc. So you "incorporate" your business. This means that everything you own for the business you transfer to a new company. As it's a business, you can do it tax free.
It's just like owning shares in BP or Marks & Spencer. If the Company goes bust, you are not going to be chased for its debts.
Exactly the same for a club. Except you may well pay CGT on any valuable assets you transfer into the company. (Not tractors, boats, life jackets or other items; only items like land, buildings and shares.)
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Many thanks Mapmaker & Daveyip,
I am very much enlightened now, and I am thinking that it is something that we should be taking in hand. we have a "committee meeting" this friday, and if you have no objections, i would like to print out your replies to take, as i'm sure the other members will have been as much in the dark as I was.
Thankyou both,
Billy
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It is Structure and Contents insurance renewal time, again. Everybody wants to know how much it would cost to rebuild my house but gives me no help as to how to calculate this. I bought it for £50k 7 years ago and it is now worth around £130K. It is a 3 bedroom semi in South West Lincs.
Obviously rebuilding would involve site clearance plus the actual rebuild but can anybody help with a £s per sq ft building cost, please?
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A trillion and one thanks SpamCan!
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Hello Everyone
First of all a quick update on the planning application from a few weeks ago- came to no avail unfortuntately, my working away prevented me from getting to see the planning officer. Felt somewhat deflated that there is no recourse to appeal, and to add insult to injury they now want to build a dining room.....estate agents here we come....
Anyway I was wondering if anyone has any good DIY cures for a spot of woodworm infestation. Looks like it has only just started, any help gratefully received.
thanks
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paul ,parrifin kills woodworm as does waste oil but if you go to the garden centre and get an insecticide with cypermethrin as the active ingredient it has a residual effect and lasts for years
used with common sense its not too dangerous ,by that I mean dont fill your loft with fumes from a sprayer then breath it in ,use a brush where you cant ventilate too well ,it was used previously on headlice treatments (might still be)so its not going to hurt if used wisely
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Paul,
I would gather the little dahlings up and spread them around next doors vents.................
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Cuprinol Woodworm Killer ~ see their website tinyurl.com/2romef
--
L\'escargot.
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Thanks for the advice - much obliged, never thought of your more radical suggestion TVM - nice one LOL :)
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