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Petel,
I think what you are talking about is a Sturmey Archer dbu battery tube. I'm sorry I can't expand on that.
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L\'escargot.
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Petel,
Apologies for calling you Petal. Is my face red.
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L\'escargot.
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Hello L'escargot.
Thanks again for your efforts, this is the sort of information I was seeking. Cannot understand why none of my searches picked up these sites.
Call me anything you like, as long as its not calling me too late for lunch or a Pay Parade.
Thanks again.
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Just found out that dbu merely stands for dry battery unit.
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L\'escargot.
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This was also available as a combination rear hub containing the Dynohub and the S.A. 3spd.Gear.Also front hub with hub brake and Dyno - Dyno on the offside Brake on nearside. Was v.popular as it overcame the problem of slipping drive wheel which was the bugbear of the Miller and Soubitez tyre side driven dynos whe cycling in the rain after dark. Memory says they were quite expensive.
Phil I (converted to Halogen plus rechargeables capable of blinding oncoming undipped motorists at 100yds.!!!)
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What's the cheapest / easiest / best way to connect a Freeview box to a TV set that does not have a scart socket ?
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Have you got a VCR with a scart in and a co-ax out? Connect Freeview to VCR scart to scart, VCR to TV co-ax to co-ax, and set the TV to the VCR channel (normally TV channel 0) and Bob is your mother's brother. VCR needs to be turned on when watch the Freeview output.
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Does it not have RF output you can connect to the arial input to the TV? If not you can buy from Maplins a modulator box ( they were about £20) which will convert signals to RF modulation so you can then feed into the TV .
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rustbucket (the original)
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here is the link to modulator box £29.99
www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=modulators&s...Y
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rustbucket (the original)
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The Freeview set top boxes convert digital signals back to analogue (otherwise you couldn't watch programmes on an analogue TV), so I would suspect that just using a coaxial cable from the STB to the TV will suffice (the TV aerial input should go to the STB first)..
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What's for you won't pass you by
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Most Freeview boxes I've seen have a co-ax out plug as well as a scart out -my suggestion above would only be needed if the box only had scart out.
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>>Most Freeview boxes I've seen have a co-ax out plug
Newer boxes have started to do away with the RF output and only have scart, so either use a modultor box or feed throu another device as suggested.
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rustbucket (the original)
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Oh! So some Freeview boxes do actually have a co-ax out plug - you, ...well me anyway, learn something new every day. I hadn't looked - I just assumed they'd be all modern like. Well, I'm off to find one with a co-ax out then. Thanks.
We've got a 23 year old Sony TV which is OK and I'd be very upset to lose full use of it.
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Watch out- our (cheap) Freeview boxes have co-ax out, but only as a pass-through for the analogue signal. The digital channels are only available through the scart output.
John
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Watch out- our (cheap) Freeview boxes have co-ax out, but only as a pass-through for the analogue signal. The digital channels are only available through the scart output.
Good point, I dont think any provide digital via co-ax, it is as John M says a pass through.
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The RF output is pass through only.
However there are two ways;
1) Freeview to VCR to Television where the VCR has a scart input.
2) Scart to phono.
If your television has the three phono inputs - yellow, red & white - then use them. Adapters are anywhere bewteen £5 and £20 depending on the quality you feel you need..
Scart is merely a connection solution, it is not a technology. So you can use phono instead quite readily.
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>>The RF output is pass through only.
not on the majority of boxes I have encountered.
>>Scart is merely a connection solution, it is not a technology
Yes you are correct and a very nasty / cheap european one at that
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rustbucket (the original)
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>>Yes you are correct and a very nasty / cheap european one at that>>
Conceived, in fact, by the French in the 1970s. The organisation responsible was the Syndicat des Constructeurs d'Appareils Radiorécepteurs et Téléviseurs, hence Scart; however it's also known as a Peritel or Euroconnector in many countries.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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>>>>The RF output is pass through only.
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>>not on the majority of boxes I have encountered.
I'll take your word for it I didn't know that. On the three we have its simply a pass through.
It does beg another question though; other than any PVR facility, why would one buy a more expensive Freeview box ?
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why would one buy a more expensive Freeview box ?>>
Superior performance and features.
One of the best selling Freeview set top boxes, which has been going strong for at least three years, is the Humax F2 FOX-T, which costs two or three times as much as most other models at around £70-£80.
Using one will quickly establish the reasons for the difference in prices.
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>>Superior performance and features.
I don't doubt you, but *what* features exactly ? PVR functionality to one side what does it do ? Change channels ? got an alarm feature ? I guess there is some differences in the EPG but that's not device quality dependant. So I am curious as to what extras/featutres/whatever I might have missed.
And, BTW, I use a Humax PVR in one room already.
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The Sony and Panasonic boxes (amongst others) put out a modulated PAL signal on a slectable channel on the the loopthro RF. Cheap one s dont!
There has been a previous thread on this.
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pmh (was peter)
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Feature the OP requires is usually described as RF modulator. Far from universal on cheaper digiboxes, neither my current Thomson nor previous Matsui now sold by Argos badged Wharfedale, had this. While adequate neither has been a top class performer with issues like poor audio sync and a tendency to lock out completely (requiring disconnection and reboot). Suspect these issues and general ease of use are the extras on the Humas Stuart mentions.
I think all will have an RF passthrough so as to allow "daisychain" of analogue VCR, DVD, TV etc.
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with issues like poor audio sync
Oh. I thought that was just me. Does this happen with boxes such as the Humax ? Can you do anything about it or is it symptomatic of the box ? Also, it doesn;t seem to be consistently bad.
I never noticed this issue with the Thomson box but I have noticed it with the Humax.
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Thanks ever so much. I'm going to order the Humax F2 FOX-T. I've read the reviews and it looks pretty much unbeatable. Out of stock at John Lewis. But at others with delivery it's looking at around £65.
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>>I'm going to order the Humax F2 FOX-T. >>
The Humax PRV9200 twin tuner Freeview DVD recorder (160GB HDD) is equally as highly regarded.
By the way a lot of problems with Freeview transmissions, especially with STBs that have a Philips chipset, is caused by the different types of transmissions used by the BBC and the majority of station holders compared to that from the ITV channels.
The BBC and others use 16QAM transmission signals and ITV 64 QAM; the level of complaints are such that apparently Philips is seeking to redesign the chipset and the retailers are fed up with customers moaning.
Some info:
tinyurl.com/2h62ab
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Thanks all and Stuartli. I don't need the recorder and just want occasional access (in the kitchen) to BBC3, BBC4, Sky News and BBC24. Ordered Humax F2 FOX-T and it's due in 7-10 days at £65.
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I think all those channels are free on digital satellite at 28E - along with lots of others. You could pick up a cheap sat receiver and dish. But you have the same issue about finding one that puts the digital stuff out on the rf.
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Guess what John Lewis are honest enough to say the box is out of stock. A N Other that I ordered it from tells me now (after order) there is a delay. A well known and very annoying technique to keep the business. Having suffered like this before I take a view on waiting / cancelling depending on my needs and timing. What I do after that is NEVER go back to that supplier again - doesn't help much but I do feel so much better for it.
PS I don't want another dish on the house - I particularly want a digital terrestrial system. I am making a (slow) start towards upgrading all the TVs in the Dulwich Mansion and its subsidiary locations, i.e. Halls of residence, student accomm etc.
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>>PS I don't want another dish on the house - I particularly want a digital terrestrial system.
>>I am making a (slow) start towards upgrading all the TVs in the Dulwich Mansion and its
>>subsidiary locations, i.e. Halls of residence, student accomm etc.
Fair enough - I really posted as a general point because for many of us digital terrestrial doesnt work due to reception issues. People who already have a dish (and that usually means a sky dish) can replace the existing lnb with a quad (or even octo) lnb and run the signal to up to four(/eight) separate receivers to get digital TV and radio elsewhere in the house.
I quite agree about the taking orders when they know that they cant fulfil. Very Annoying.
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>>Fair enough - I really posted as a general point
And useful it was for me too. Our sky dish is situated so high and in such an awkward place that I would never even think about changing the lnb. If we can't get a digital terrestrial signal here then nobody in England can - the Crystal Palace transmitter is 2 miles away and easily visible ! !
But in our holiday house, the satellite dish is easily reached and I've always wanted UK radio in other rooms and you've very nicely pointed me in the right direction (Astra II as it happens) - thanks.
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Is there anyone out there who knows anything about the service and maintenance on theses ( now discontinued ) balanced flue boilers please?
Unit has worked without problem for the past 13 years and has been serviced by local heating engineers every second year. Over the last 12 months, occasionally when firing up, the unit will thunder and bang before settling down. When this happens, the view of the flame through the burner sight glass is no different to when it fires up normally. The water system has a full container of the leading brand of water treatment in it.
Is this the water or the gas pressure and if so, how do I adjust either?
Input much appreciated
Thank you.
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This is a problem with your water. Your boiler needs to be de-scaled. I would wait till spring, then drain and fill your system with a descaler, then flush, then fill with fresh water and inhibitor.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Right, thank you TVM appreciate the confirmation. Do not fancy messing with it now so will heed your advice and wait for the spring.
Thanks again.
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Now that TVM has confirmed that my problem is not with the boiler itself, I would still be interested to hear from anyone who has experience of service and maintenance on this type of boiler.
Thank you.
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Well actually TVM didnt actually state that the problem isnt the boiler itself...It is a problem with the boiler insomuch as the internal skin of the boiler has scaled up and the water passing through creates bubbles which according to the chemical people collapses and creates noise.
The other problem is that it causes your boiler to be far less efficient in transfer of heat from the burner through to the water.
We used to have a poster on the office wall from the department of energy stating that one eighth of an inch of scale is equivalant to about 10 inches of copper as regarding heat transmission.
I assume your boiler is a cast iron one.
It needs descaling and the product widely used is one of the Sentinal products you can find through google which explains also the problems with boiler scaling.
I suggest when you do it drain down until the outlet in the make up tank in your roof space is empty.
The use a bent funnel to pour the chemical directly down into your pipeork before refilling.
This is far more efficient than simply pouring it into your make up tank. Then follow the instructions when to add an inhibitor. It will take a month or two or three to remove the scale so don't expect quick results.
wemyss
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Thanks wemyss, appreciate your input.
I fully intend to de-scale the boiler at the first sign of good weather and have been using a funnel with a plastic pipe and screw adapter for many years.
Much appreciated.
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"Not sure orf the distances but if you are firing close enough to hit a neighbour or their property you will be breaking the law."
Not quite accurate:
"It is an offence to fire an airgun within 50 feet of the centre of a public highway, if by doing so you cause any member of the public using that highway to be injured, interrupted or endangered. This applies even if you are on private property adjacent the highway. Public highways include roads, bridleways and public footpaths.
Trespass"
If you take steps to prevent endangerment, you'll be OK.
V
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"It is an offence to fire an airgun within 50 feet of the centre of a public highway, if by doing so you cause any member of the public using that highway to be injured, interrupted or endangered. "
Does this mean.........if you do NOT cause any member of the public using that highway to be injured, interrupted or endangered....... it is not an offence????????
I cannot believe this is statement of Law, just somebodys poor interpretation!
Alternatively the centre of a public highway to the hard shoulder of of a 4 lane motorway is more than 50 feet, so is it OK to use an airgun there! I dont think so!
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pmh (was peter)
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Depends what law you're looking at The Anti Social Behaviour Act 2003 makes it al but illegal to shoot beyond your own curtlidge. There is also a variety of laws, including the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, to protect birds which may by some be viewed as vermin. Being caught shooting them may lead to a prosecution. I certainly wouldn't advice it unless you're 100% sure of the specis that you're aiming to shoot.For instance shoot a racing pigeon you could end up looking at an offence of Criminal Damage. If a well meaning MOP reports you stalking your prey you could end up looking down the business end of a Police MP5. The one bit of (unourced) legistlation is just one example for the potential for trouble. Firearms Legistlation isn't a case of simple one liners, it's a minefield.
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I agree that the minutiae of the law matters.
Wood pigeons are classed as vermin (as are grey squirrels). Assuming you CAN tell the difference, you're allowed to shoot them on your own land or on land where you have the permission of the landowner.
Pellets going out of the property will land you in the mire (though the Police round here wouldn't come out when it was reported recently). The 50ft rule above is pretty easy to understand, imho, previous comment notwithstanding.
V
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Being caught shooting them may lead to a prosecution.
I'll see how I get on with uncooked rice. I guess the best variety is the cheapest.
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L\'escargot.
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OK CH fans, here's the latest....
Found that fuse for the CH control was blown. Replaced it, checked terminals before fitting control panel face back on, all OK. Fitted face, fuse blew again - repeated this with same result.
Bought new controller which asked for a 3amp fuse, this blew on first switch on. Fitted 5amp fuse, boiler fires up, but after two minutes smoke starts coming from pump! Had a sit down and a think.
Fiddled with pump to to reseat central pin as per instructions on the side. Restarted boiler. No smoke but the pump housing was radiator hot to the touch after about 5 mins (but before any hot water reached it from the rads themselves). I've never felt it before, but that can't be right. Boiler decided to switch off again anyway, at which point I thought I'd switch everything off again.
AGA has just gone out in sympathy.
What do we reckon - I'm thinking the pump is U/S and had been overloading everything else on the system.
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your thinking is sound. its not huge agro to change, *if* its been fitted correctly, should have two isolating valves either side, you just need a large stilson to get those big nuts off on the pump body.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Yep - this is a classic symptom of a failed pump.
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Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. I now have a luvverly new pump and a warm house.
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Was the pump not running at all then due to being siezed and having blown the fuse?
As your Hot Water comes from the AGA do you make a note on your calender to run the heating for a few minutes each month through the summer to keep the pump alive?
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Once I replaced the controller it ran but started smoking. The pump was choked with goo - why is it that when I bleed the rads some chuck out filthy water and some clean, even thought the rads were replaced at the same time?
Do I keep a note to fire up the CH? SIne, you're talking to a man who had to plead with the security guard to let me into the building to hand deliver my tax return to the Inland Rev office at 9.30pm on 31st January....
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We have a gas fired Rayburn but the c/h boiler is separate within the cooker so it's probably no different to a normal c/h boiler. In the last couple of weeks it's gone out a few times in the early hours and we've had to reset it before lighting in the morning (the cut-out operates if the water temperature goes above 95C according to the manual).
Today it's taken a severe turn for the worse. I was in the kitchen this morning when it cut out and to judge by the noises (clanking and banging) I expected an explosion and flying fragments of cast iron. However, when it cooled down we were able to reset and relight - it worked fine for an hour or two then the same performance again.
The boiler stat seems OK - when it's running it's fine and the water temperature is normal. The pump and the motor valves are working with hot radiators and water when it's working. Is it an air problem, or scale again? Experience tells me it will take a while to get somebody to look at it .
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Has it got a pump over-run thermostat (i.e. does the pump normally keep running for a few minutes after the timer has switched off) and has this failed?
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L\'escargot.
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L'escargots is a good possibility and I too would go for that one first.
If not I would say its scale. I'm out of touch with modern boilers but if it has the same method of where the probe for the boiler thermostat goes into the boiler I would say that the pocket has scaled up on the inside.
However you say that your water temperature is the same as previous?.
But noise is always an indication of scale so I would drain down and get some Sentinal descaler into the system but it won't cure it for quite a while.
wemyss
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The violent banging noise is due to a large proportion of water boiling within the heat exchanger.
If the heat exchanger is scaled the boiler will usually hiss gently (due to localised boiling) and the hissing will get louder the hotter it gets and the pipes may start humming.
If the radiator temperatures are normal then maybe the burner is still alight after the pump shuts off.
If this is not happening then its most probably the boiler thermostat at fault but this would result in hotter radiators. (The max temp a thermostat will usually allow is around 82C flow temp out of the boiler)
Or L'escargots suggestion
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Thanks chaps. I've never been able to work out the pump logic, I know it is set to run after the boiler has shut off, but it's actually running now even though the programmer is set 'off''.
I'm pretty sure the rad temperatures have always been normal, not red hot - the hot water tank might not be a good guide as there is a stat on the tank anyway.
I've booked the service engineer to visit in two weeks - in the meantime, as I have nothing to lose, I'll take the suggestion to put the Sentinel descaler in (I frightened myself a bit reading up on the aggressive acid descalers but the Sentinel one is pH neutral and can be left in). I'll also run it to see if the pump syncs OK with the burner as suggested.
I would definitely class the noises as violent banging - its sounds as if there's somebody in there with a lump hammer.
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Scale either in the boiler or sometimes in the pipework can create all kinds of noises.
It can start with a gentle kettling sound exactly as your kettle sounds when it gets towards boiling (hence the name) to the large banging and knocking you describe.
I have seen it constricting a pipe several times but mostly in the boiler.
Sometimes it can necessitate in removing the boiler and using some strong descaler to alleviate it.
It will respond better to a descaler if you get it directly into the boiler by draining down below the outlet on your make up tank and filling down there. leave all the radiators closed so as not to dilute it and run your boiler. (Yes I know its winter)
It normally does not respond to treatment for quite a long time and sometimes the noise will change as it descales even to where it sounds worse.
As mentioned it can be in the pipework restricting the flow but hopefully not as it can be the devil of a job to find it even though it should always be in the hottest spot.
Also check when your boiler is running that it isnt pumping water over the expansion pipe into the make up tank. This is often the cause of corrosion into the system as the hot water aerates as it blows into the tank which takes this down into the system as it makes up.
This situation can be caused by incorrect positioning of the expansion pipe and make up pipe on the primary circuit. Also by having the pump setting too high.
wemyss
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Thanks wemyss - I'll give it a go.
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Hello,
I asked this in IHAQ 169, no response then though no harm in asking again I guess.
I have an argument with an insurance co, it is being handled by the Financial Ombudsman Service. Part of the issue is that I reckon the company owes me money and am concerned that if I continue to pay premiums I am just making the situation worse, in effect increasing the amount that I am owed.
The question is if I were to suspend payement of premiums whilst the dispute is settled will it jeapourdise my case?
I assume not if I inform the insurance company in writing, it is private medical cover so unlike perhaps car / household insurance it is not really a problem if they in turn suspend cover. The FOS will not advise for or against the suspension of premiums.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
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The answer is that if you suspend payment of premiums while in dispute, you dont have any cover. How important is that to you?
If this was me, I would cancel my cover, take out alternate cover with another supplier, and continue my claim against the first company,
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Think before you suspend any payments or go elsewhere. Those delightfully friendly insurance companies just love it when they can decline your business through not declaring a pre-existing condition. To start with a new company you will have to declare all your medical issues and you may find a hiked premium or non-cover for something that is covered with your present insurer.
I won't give advice on the benefits of private health insurance as it's up to everyone to make up their own minds. In my case, like a mug I paid year after year and when one of the family had outpatient treatment (the specialist offered inpatient treatment too , but it was less convenient) I was told by insurers the limit was £500 and they would pay no more. Had we stayed in, it would all have been paid for. We argued with insurers and got nowhere despite saving them thousands by not going as an inpatient. What did I do? I now self-insure. I cancelled the policy 12 years ago and have been putting the saved premiums into a "Health Savings Account". The amount in it is now huge.
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Thanks TVM and DE, I can afford to be without cover, in fact I have considered DE's health savings account approach, the question is if I suspend payments whilst the dispute is settled will it jeapourdise my case in any way?
Thanks.
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without knowing exactly what the dispute is, its hard to say but my opinion would be that,
In a given period of time, your had a dispute with the insurer. During that period of time you were fully paid up with premiums. You terminate your contract within its term& conditions. Your claim was lodged before termination.
Therefore I can think of no legal or contractural reasons why you should be jeapordised.
Mind the insurance company wont feel pre disposed to settle if you are no longer a customer.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thanks TVM, I am not proposing terminating, rather suspending premiums during the dispute, however it may be taken as a termination depending on T&Cs in which case you last sentence probably says it all.
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tbh I dont think anyone can give a proper answer to this without knowing the details of the contract you have and the details of the dispute. I think you need to take advice from a specialist.
I would be particularly concerned that the policy terms may be such that if you stop paying you are in effect not paying a debt that they might pursue leading to bad credit records etc.
iirc just because they breach the contract on one term does not make the whole contract invalid (which is a common misconception) - it just means that you may be due some recompense.
Do they publish any disputes handling policy ?
Are they a member of any industry association that might provide info or have policy guidelines.
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You can't set one against the other. There are two separate situations here. 1. ) You are paying premiums for ongoing cover, (I presume). What can that have to do with what has gone before?? 2.) Your claim, if that is what it is, is another issue and must be dealt with as a stand alone matter. For heavens sake keep copies of all correspondence and don't go off half cocked. If you think that ANY insurer will accept non-payment of premiums against a debt to you that they dispute then you are very much mistaken. You will be WITHOUT cover and your actions will not help you in any legal action you may take in the future.
Best..........MD
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2nd Q from me today.
We have fitted new forks to my son's bike and have looked at fitting his old ones to my bike, however:
My bike has cantilever type brakes comprsing an arm attached to each fork leg, on my current forks there is a spigot on which the brake arm pivots secured by a bolt, the innner end of the spigot is wider with a small hole in it to accomodate the return spring.
My son's bike has disc brakes however his old forks can clearly accomodate conventional brakes, they have a short stub that is same as the inner, wider end of the spigot on my forks which is internal threaded and features the small hole for the return spring, I assume I need to obtain some kind of threaded stud to screw into the existing stub so as to form a spigot compatible with that on my current forks?
Any experiences / thoughts?
Thanks.
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Here's a little question that occured to me over the weekend.
Why are the rechargable Ni-Cad/Ni-mh batteries, the ordinary ones AA, D, AAA, C size batteries used in torches and games and other household stuff so much lighter than the alkaline non-rechargable ones?
The rechargable ones, even the bigger sizes, you could forget you're holding one they are that light.
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Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed
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Does anybody have any recommendations for recipe management software, free or cheap
must be able to handle imperial & metric, scale recipes up/down, and print out recipes. Also the ability to tell it what you've got in the fridge and have it produce a recipe would be good.
I've scoured the local shops - nothing. free stuff on the net includes bigoven, which I can't get to install, and recipes3000 (or something similar), which has an apalling interface and no functionality other than being a list of trecipes, as far as I can see
cheers
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Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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I have one, its called Wife V1.0. Hideously expensive tho.
Several people I know are on on Wife V2, or even Wife V3. The upgrade costs from V1 are ruinous.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I can sell you some first class recipe management software written for the food and beverage industry, but at several thousand pounds per "seat" plus the need for a relational database licence and annual maintenance, I suspect even wife v99 will be cheaper!
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Last year a friend of mine upgraded from Girlfriend 4.0 to Wife 1.0 and found that it's a memory hog leaving few system resources for other applications. He is also now noticing the Wife 1.0 is also spawning Child-processes which are further consuming valuable resources. No mention of this particular phenomenon was included in the product documentation, though other users have informed me that this is to be expected due to the nature of the application.
Not only that, Wife 1.0 installs itself so that it is always launched at system initialization where it can monitor all other system activity. Some applications such as PokerNite 10.3 , Bachelor Party 2.5, and Pubnite 7.0 are no longer able to run on the system at all, causing the system to lockup when launched (even though the apps worked fine before).
Wife 1.0 provides no installation options. Thus, the installation of undesired plug-ins such as Mother-in-law 55.8 and the Brother-in-law Beta is unavoidable. Also, system performance seems to diminish with each passing day.
Some features my friend would like to see in the upcoming Wife 2.0:
* A "don't remind me again" button.
* Minimize button.
* Ability to delete the "headache" file
* An install feature that provides an option to uninstall 2.0 version without loss loss of other system resources.
* An option to run the network driver in "promiscuous mode" allowing the the system's Hardware Probe feature to be much more useful/effective.
I myself wish I had decided to avoid all of the headaches associated with Wife 1.0 by sticking with Girlfriend 3.0 Even here, however, I have found many problems. Apparently you cannot install Girlfriend 4.0 on top of girlfriend 3.0. You must uninstall Girlfriend 3.0 first, otherwise the two versions of Girlfriend will have conflicts over shared use of the I/O port. Other users have told me that this is a long-standing problem that I should have been aware of. Guess that explains what happened to versions 1 and 2.
To make matters worse, the uninstall program for Girlfriend 3.0 doesn't work very well, leaving undesirable traces of the application in the system. Another identified problem is that all versions of Girlfriend have annoying little messages about the advantages of upgrading to Wife 1.0!
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Wife 1.0 keeps crashing!!!!
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Indeed - if you introduce incompatible programmes such as Mistress 1.0 onto your system it may crash if detected by whatever version of Wife you are currently running.
Freeware such as PornStash 9.0, while not entirely satisfactory, is a much safer option, and (unlike the various Shareware alternatives) is virtually always bug-free.
Fnar, fnar.
--
andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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Discover A Dish
www.shippysoft.com/discover/
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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There has to be a FOS for these problems but I cannot see one at the moment. Will ask Torvald next time I speak to him.
Phil I
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. Also the ability to tell it whatyou've got in the fridge and have it produce a recipe would be good.
Go on, get out of the car... www.mikes-walks.co.uk
Do you know I was playing with an idea such as the above a few months ago - even got as far as registering the domain name whatsinmyfridge.com. Then someone phoned me up and offered me a silly price to buy the domain off of me - so I sold it and made a very healthy profit - looks like there might be a market in it after all!!
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"Also the ability to tell it what you've got in the fridge and have it produce a recipe would be good."
When I went to the IBM plant in Austin, they had this working - five or so years ago. Fridge read the RFID tags on the goods put in and take out, and if you wanted, would look for a recipe for the ingredients you had. Sadly, it was only a demo. Maybe one day, eh? Best feature was one that told you that you weren't taking out the oldest milk in the fridge if you picked up the wrong one.
V
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Samsung and LG make this fridge. As you say vin, it reads RF tags on the food packaging and has a wireless card to communicate with your PC and ordering/recipe/inventory management software
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thats all very well, but I don't keep all my food in the fridge. Do you have to programme it with what tins you have bought as well?
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If you key in "recipe management software + freeware" if required into Google it will bring up quite a number of suggestions.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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>Thats all very well, but I don't keep all my food in the fridge. Do you have to programme it with what tins you have >bought as well?
Well yes if you want total gastronomic inventory control and management in your digitally enhanced multifunction dwelling unit.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I saw an "energy-saving" prototype on a TV show last year - you walked up to it and the door became transparent, enabling you to see what was in it without releasing the cold air unnecessarily. Don't know how much energy would be required to run such a feature though!
--
andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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Did anybody ever prove that Uri Geller could not bend spoons, stop watches, etc. etc. ?
He seems to be on television these days as some kind of illusionist which would seem implicit acceptance that it was all nonsense, but I just wondered if he ever acknowledged it as such, or it was proved so.
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Did anybody ever prove that Uri Geller could not bend spoons, stop watches, etc. etc. ?
I don't recall him claiming to be able to bend a stop watch! ;-)
--
L\'escargot.
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I seem to remember him bending the second hand on a stopwatch. Was that on Blue Peter or something?
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IIRC he used to/well at least claim to stop a watch, clock or whatever people had in their homes at the same time.
Never knew just how he managed to get away with it all...:-)
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Some very interesting stuff here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uri_Geller
I have to admit to a bias here. I like James Randi (a magician) a lot. So bear that in mind when you read on:
Randi's put up a prize of $1,000,000 to anyone who can demonstrate evidence of any paranormal, supernatural or occult power or event, under test conditions agreed to by both parties. That's putting your money where your mouth is. Geller hasn't taken him up on it.
He also said that if Uri Geller using his mind to perform his feats, he's doing it the hard way. He's written a book debunking Geller as well.
V
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Didn't Randi offer the million dollars to anyone who claimed to be doing something supernatural that he, Randi, could not replicate by 'normal' means? As far as i know, Randi still has his money. I am always amazed at how many people seem to prefer supernatural explanations to rational ones - it has been suggested that this explained the success of the X-Files. And why do only very dopey people get abducted by aliens? You think the aliens would want to meet some intelligent earthlings?
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I'm thinking of buying some LED reflector bulbs to replace my halogen bulbs as they pop. The websites suggest they give out similar light to a 20W Halogen, that they last forever and a day and that they use a wisp of electricity, but I'm interested in finding people who've used them and what their experience is. Anyone?
V
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These people do 10 GU10s for £11 and have a selection of GU10 types with LEDs etc, might help you.
www.yourwelcome.co.uk/
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Anyone know why each individual apple now has a sticker on it saying what type of apple it is? Doesn't seem to happen with oranges or any other fruit.
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So the checkout operator knows what type it is - do you know your Fuji from your Royal Gala?
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As simple as that huh-so I cannot put the blame on a Eurocrat! Thought that was what bar codes were for.
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You can involve the Eurocrats though! These stickers are heavily regulated - the label itself and its glue - in case they are accidentally eaten by anyone.
Health and safety and all that.
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I have bananas with stickers on, oranges ditto. My pinapple however has a label tied on with string round its crown.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Does Big Ben have to be wound up or is he electric or whatever? How fast is the minute hand moving at its tip?
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Big ben does not move so needs no power and its speed can not be measured.
Big Ben is a bell.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Sigh
Does the clock on the tower also containing the bell known as Big Ben have to be wound up?
"Big ben does not move so needs no power and its speed can not be measured"
I bet my life that that statement contains at least three inaccuracies
"Big Ben is a bell"
That's probly true though.
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BBD,
You might find what you're after here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clock_Tower,_Palace_of_Westm...r or in the links at the bottom.
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Big ben does not move
Big Ben (officially known as the Great Bell of Westminster) does move. Due to thermal effects it oscillates annually by a few millimetres east and west.
--
L\'escargot.
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Its actually oficially known as the "the hour bell of the Great Clock of Westminster"
Being round, it oscilates nowhere due to thermal expansion effects. It may expand and contract to all points .
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Being round, it oscilates nowhere due to thermal expansion effects. It may expand and contract to all points .
I'll reword my statement. Due to thermal effects the vertical axis oscillates annually by a few millimetres east and west.
--
L\'escargot.
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At almost exactly 1revolution per hour.
V
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"At almost exactly 1revolution per hour"
Like a diesel engine then.
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BBD - the minute hand isn't in constant movement. It only moves once every minute - on the first second. If you watch films of New Year/Rememberance Sunday etc you will see the hand move from 59 mintues past the hour to the hour as the hour strikes.
The clock mechanism is wound.
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"The clock mechanism is wound."
Blimey. How?
And how often?
Wikipedia doesn't say.
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From a hazy mermory I think they use something similar to a car starting handle to raise the weights. No idea how long one wind lasts, probably no more than a couple of days.
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From a hazy mermory I think they use something similar to a car starting handle to raise the weights. No idea how long one wind lasts, probably no more than a couple of days.
IIRC the job of Clock Attendant was vacant recently. Sounded interesting - get paid - keep fit - tips from grateful tourists.
Perfect!
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I recommend a trip up the tower - fascinating.
May have to be booked via your MP and include a tour of The Palace of Westminster. Try to make sure that you climb The Clock Tower - good exercise!
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