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Recently painted a number of rooms with Dulux matt white emulsion for the walls and Dulux water based white satinwood for the skirting and doors. Looks great in daylight; proper preparation and neat application gives a crisp, smart, finish that suits the rooms to perfection. Come the evening and switch on the lighting however (one room is large and brightly lit with fifteen 15 watt low energy bulbs, the other is much smaller but just as brightly lit with recessed halogen bulbs) and all is not so good; the walls stay crisp white but the skirting and doors become off white in comparison, with a distinct yellowish hue.
Does any BRer have a satin finish white paint to recommend that remains crisp white under both daylight and the lighting described as a result of being less susceptible to lighting colour temperature?
Many thanks.
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I feel you may have a problem with the colour temperature of the bulbs. In the current ScrewFix catalogue they are starting to list the colour temperature of many of the bulbs they supply, so perhaps this is more of a problem than you realise.
Check the Dulux can and have a word with their technical department, they are the experts and need to know of customer problems. They may already know the answer.
Hope this helps.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Further to my note in IHAQ 166, and the advice I kindly received from you, I tried calling Telewest today. I was directed to Customer Relations with my query to hear a recorded message that the queue time was 55 mins due to "high level of demand".
I phoned again and pressed for the option to "upgrade" my service and got through to someone straight away.
There is a susprise....not. But I will keep trying.
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Update... Finally got through by doing the old trick of not pressing any buttons.
Broadband reduced from 4Mb (£25pm) to 2Mb (£9.99pm)
TV package reduced from Supreme package (£17.50) to the "Freeview" package (£Free)
Still able to retain my Setanta TV so overall, monthly cost reduced by £32.50!
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.
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paul45,
Determining whether "right to light" has been infringed is a very complicated affair and may require the (expensive) services of an expert to assess. See tinyurl.com/y5mkzz for some information.
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L\'escargot.
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paul45,
If you're serious about pursuing this issue there is guidance from BRE ~ see tinyurl.com/yldepa
An extract from the linked website says "What about the scientific proving of light issues I hear you ask to override the Planning Officers negative opinion? Well yes their is guidance from the BRE called 'Site layout planning for daylight and sunlight - A guide to good practice' by PJ Littlefair. However, this £55 document is seriously complicated should the need arise for proving diagrams using Waldram diagrams. The novice will never understand it and the same applies to most Planning and Appeal Officers so you are advised to avoid the scientific approach like the plague. Even the official chapters of the guide clearly state that...."The advice given here is not mandatory and this document should not be seen as an instrument of Planning Policy" However, the guidance on whether or not your building works actually obstruct the light to the neighbours window is actually very useful in proving to the Planners that you DO NOT need to prove by calculation any loss of light. You would be surprised when you do work out this 25 degree vertical reference line of light just how close some new buildings can actually go to the troublesome windows. Therefore, if your getting resistance to you scheme on light issues, go get this BRE Guide first from any good stationers or the BRE direct - it could be the best £55 you have spent in helping to get your scheme recommended for approval."
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L\'escargot.
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All - thanks to the seriously good advice here - much obliged.
A quick update - I had already appealed against the decision and asked for site drawings which were not posted on the website. When these came through today after speaking to the IT guy it turns out that the drawings are about 35 years out of date. They show my property prior to a major extension in 1972. The footprint of my house is less than half of what it actually is on their drawings.
The detailed drawings of the proposed extension show a balcony style set of doors overlooking my garden and the distance of these window doors is 7m compared to 13.25m for the current building.
I am speaking to the relevant planning officer tomorrow and will update you all - I will then decide to beg,borrow or buy the BRE guide as recommended by L'escargot.
Again - thanks for the all the help guys.
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"The detailed drawings of the proposed extension show a balcony style set of doors overlooking my garden and the distance of these window doors is 7m compared to 13.25m for the current building"
meant to say "7m from my property boundary compared to 13.25m for the existing building" - oops.
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Help !!!
Just spoken to planning office who stated that there is no right to appeal this decision. The only person who can appeal against their decision is the applicant if they say no - not any other "affected party"
They stated that a site visit had been made - not on my property it wasn't, and that the position of my house would have been taken into account. However as previous contributors state this seems to go against some of their own "rules". Problem is where do I find these rules?
Is this right?
Any help much appreciated
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If you're concerned about your "right to light" then I think this may well be a separate issue to whether the other party gets planning permission or not. However, I don't say this with certainty. Sorry.
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L\'escargot.
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I felt sure that there was a way to challenge the decision, because we got an approval on a heavily objected to scheme and there was a time window afterwards where people (objectors) could have challenged it. I just can't remember the correct terminlogy though.
The planners advice though is consistent with Bristol City Council:
www.bristol-city.gov.uk/ccm/navigation/environment.../
The site visit will have been made to the property in the application, and not yours. They should have and probably did take into account the position of your house as it is if they visited from the site under consideration.
Sorry, my limited knowledge is exhausted at that point. Maybe ask to meet the planners and discuss your two particular concerns with the case officer?
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Once again thanks to contributors
Looks like I will have to give up a morning (officer only works Wednesday and Thursday) and speak face to face. The conversation with another planner rapidly deteriorated when we realised that our respective positions would not change.
SWIMBO and I both feel so strongly about this that we will move house if this goes ahead. Not aware of a law called constructive removal to mirror constructive dismissal though....
Groans and has a good whinge about the state of local government
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Find out the value and desirablity of your property from an estate agent or two, then show them the plans and ask them if it affects the valuation.
If it does you could threaten to sue the people who have lodged the planning application. At the very least they now have a legal obligation to report the dispute to any prospective purchaser of their property should they decide to sell which in effect makes it worthless.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Paul
Unfortunately for you the planning officer is correct in stating that there isn't a 'third party' right to appeal in the UK (there is in Ireland).
On assessing the application, the officer would have made a site visit to familiarise him/herself with the issues before reaching a decision. This site visit does not usually require visiting neighbour properties. The decision is made against the planning policies of the Council and any other material planning considerations. Unfortunately loss of property value and the 'right to light' aren't in themselves material planning considerations. The impact on the amenities of adjoining occupiers is however and the loss of light, privacy, overlooking etc would have been weighed up in an officer coming to a recommendation on the application.
I'm not completely aware of the circumstances of your neighbour's application. However in reaching their recommendation, officers will use their professional judgement (based on dealing with 250+ apps per year and their ongoing training) and take into account relevant appeal decisions. Sometimes these decisions can be very 'on balance', and may not something that they personally think is 'great' but which they know they would have little chance in defending on appeal. These recommendations are checked by managers to ensure consistency etc before a decision is issued. Only about 5% of applications are determined at Committee generally.
You can challenge the decision through a judicial review in the courts in certain circumstances but I don't see any hope for you in pursuing this recourse in this instance. If you think the Council mishandled the application, a slightly more realistic recourse is to firstly write an official complaint to the Council to request a full explanation of how they came to the decision. If you are not satisfied with their response, you can then go to the local gov't ombudsman who are able to award compensation if they consider it appropriate to do so.
If I were you i would try and get hold of the officers 'delegated report' to try and understand how they came to their recommendation. Also check the decision notice to see if any landscaping on the boundary between the properties is required through conditions. Is there any way that you can plant suitable screening on your side of the boundary as a last resort.
Hope this late input is of some assistance?
Bost.
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bostin, top man - judicial review was the thing i couldn't remember.
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Best swimming goggles on the market please?
One's that dont steam up, dont leak, dont fall apart after 4 goes and comfortable.
Cheers.
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I use Speedos, my kids use Zoggs; both are OK.
Speedos do seem to suffer less misting than Zoggs, but then, my sets of speedos are newer than the Zoggs. Whatever anti-mist coating they apply does wear off eventually.
A copious amount of spit (yeuch) rubbed into the inside of the lens does delay misting once the surface has gone. No doubt a dab of rain-x would last longer.
V
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Hello
Hope someone can advise my dad please. He noticed the guttering was overflowing today, and when he climbed up he found it clear, but backed up with water. When he opened the inspection cover on the drive, the drains are full, and the pipe is full of tree roots that have grown through it and blocked it. The trees are conifers which separate our house from the neighbours' house.
So, off dad goes to the neighbour's house where the woman is in but the man is out. The woman told my dad he just needs to claim on his house insurance to get the drains cleared and fixed. No, says my dad, they're your trees! So he's waiting for the man to come round for a chat.
We're not best friends with our neighbours but we've never fallen out (we're still the newcomers after 14 years, whereas everyone else has been here since the houses were built 30+ years ago) - they have quite happily been round and trimmed the same trees in the past.
What would you do? It shouldn't be up to my dad to solve a problem that someone else's trees have caused, should it?
Thanks
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The house sounds too new (post 1937) for the drains to be the responsibilty of the local authority, but if they serve multiple properties, they are not drains, but sewers and may be the responsibility of the local regional water company. If so, then they can take the matter up with next door, and your Dad can just appear to be the sympathetic neighbour. If they are his drains then you could try the house insurance especially if it has legal cover and they would probably sue the neighbour, but at least it was their idea!
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I may be wrong but I don't think house insurance covers blocked drains.
Also with fast growing conifers this problem is likely to re-occur; so liability needs to be sorted out once and for all.
Perhaps a call to the local council might help sort out who is responsible.
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The owner of the trees is liable for the damage that the roots have caused to your drains. Send him a letter politely but firmly pointing this out and claiming the cost of the repair from him. Inform him that you will also hold him reponsible for any further (and consequential) damage that might occur before the repair is carried out. Keep a copy of the letter and also send a copy to your solicitor for reference only at this stage informing him of what has happened. It is up to the neighbour where he gets the money from ~ either out of his own pocket or from his insurance company. If the neighbour fails to respond satisfactorily and in a timely manner then ask your solicitor to act on your behalf. Don't stand for any nonsense or prevarication from the neighbour.
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L\'escargot.
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I may be wrong but I don't think house insurance covers blocked drains.
No though perhaps damaged drains?
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Far be it from me to suggest anything of this sort, but I've heard that these "fast growing conifers" don't respond well to diesel spillage near the roots.
Having said that, how is a blocked drain causing your guttering to back up? Isn't the gutter emptying into a down pipe that is open at the bottom? I'd say you have two problems here: blocked drains and a blocked down pipe. Finally, are you quite sure it's the conifers that are the problem? Conifers tend to have small-ish rootballs relative to their height (about a foot across for every inch diameter of the trunk) and also tend to be shallow, so unless the drain is really quite close to them, or the conifers are very big I'd finger something else, such as a Cherry. Do you have a Cherry tree within 30 feet of this drain? Of course local conditions and the exact type of conifer will determine affect the size and spread of the roots, but I'd cast the net wider before having a pop at the neighbour.
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Falling out with your neighbour is absolutely the last resort. Trust me, I have acted for enough warring neighbours to know of what i speak!
Find out what needs to be done to cure the problem. if it is not too expensive and can be done without cutting down trees etc, just go ahead and do it.
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Having said that, how is a blocked drain causing your guttering to back up? Isn't the gutter emptying into a down pipe that is open at the bottom? >>
Our down pipes are not open at the bottom.
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>> Having said that, how is a blocked drain causing your guttering >> to back up? Isn't the gutter emptying into a down pipe >> that is open at the bottom? >> Our down pipes are not open at the bottom.
Really? I can't say I've ever noticed that kind of arrangement before. Are they sealed in like a waste pipe then or just covered? If sealed it does seem like a hostage to fortune, given the amount of leaf mulch I clear from my down pipes every year. It would be a bad plan to have that getting into the drain.
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>>......... given the amount of leaf mulch I clear from mydown pipes every year.
My solution to that is to stop the leaves getting into the downpipes using chicken wire.
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L\'escargot.
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We have a lot of trees here and I find with that method you just end up with blocked gutters between September and November, unless they are cleared every couple of days. I shove a hosepipe up them once a year, which apart from being very effective, is amusing for the neighbours.
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>> Having said that, how is a blocked drain causing your guttering >> to back up? Isn't the gutter emptying into a down pipe >> that is open at the bottom? >> Our down pipes are not open at the bottom.
Neither are ours.Think most modern houses,including my last house have down pipes that go straight into a small dia. drain.
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Wow, this is like a secret society of sealed downpipers. Does anyone know what the reasoning behind this might be?
Can't be just a modern house thing though as (I just looked) the brand new one across the road has open pipes.
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Neither are ours (2 year old house). But equally storm water should not be routed into fould drains - it should go into soakaways. So whilst the roots shouldn't be there, I suspect that's not the cause of the gutter overflows.
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Terry
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But equally storm water should not be routed into fould drains - it should go into soakaways.
Our last property had separate drains for foul water and surface water. I think it was because the clay soil wasn't suitable for soakaways.
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L\'escargot.
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Same here; 1979 built house; surprise surprise it does backfill during heavy rain:-(
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Right...thank you so far, I think I may have confused the situation by not writing the right thing!
I asked my dad if it was a drain or a sewer, and he said it's a soakaway.
The water comes down the guttering pipe and into some point underneath the inspection cover. From there it goes into a pipe and away to a gravelly underground area that's supposed to absorb and disperse the water (is that the soak away?). The tree routes have grown down through the area that is supposed to disperse the water, and have grown up through the pipe so the pipe is full of a cylindrical mass of tree roots.
Does that make more sense, or am I being stupid?
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Does that make more sense, or am I being stupid?
That makes absolute sense.
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L\'escargot.
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The treeroutes have grown down through the area that is supposed to disperse the water, and have grown up through the pipe so the pipe is full of a cylindrical mass of tree roots. Does that make more sense, or am I being stupid?
"The tree routes"(sic) - ah well this is motoring forum!
Your problem is a lot less serious than it being a drain I would think. Surely it would be a fairly simple job to remove these roots?
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Same here; 1979 built house; surprise surprise it does backfill during heavy rain:-(
What I should have said was that our last property had separate sewers (not drains) for foul water and surface water. The surface water went into a sewer at the side of the road that also drained surface water off the road. No problems with this arrangement.
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L\'escargot.
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Just got back from the dentist. I'm new to him, and he tells me I need five fillings. Now, much as I love pain, that seems a little excessive to me.
My concern is that this is a little like the mechanic who tells you "Your brakes are shot and you need a new transmission" when you go for an oil change (virtual pint for anyone spotting the film reference there), in that the chap telling you the problem is the chap who will be getting cash for doing the repair.
Is there such a thing as an independent dentist who can help out here? Many years ago, I used to use the dental hospital in Manchester for this very reason, but there isn't a dental school in Southampton, so I don't have that option.
One alternative is to visit half a dozen dentists for their opinions, but that'll mean a bundle of cash (and a fried head from X-rays, no doubt).
Anyone got any knowledge in this area that might help?
V
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Actually it goes ...." The brake drums are shot and you need a new transmission"
The Mask.
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How many of these can you verify yourself?
For instance a soft area of tooth, a hole/depression, sometimes on the gum line.
If there are cavities in a tooth they usually need fillings as they are due to decay.
Buy a dentist's mirror ?
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Presumably any private dentist would, for the appropriate fee, give a second opinion. I would have thought one second opinion would be enough.
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L\'escargot.
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Our house has a slate roof though the garage roof is tiled, since moving to the house when it was new 4.5 years ago we have had ongoing problems with the mortar between the ridge tile and slate becoming detached and rolling down the roof - until now the tiles have stayed put.
The original roofers have attended to the roof on three or four occasions over that time in each case re-mortaring the ridge tiles though to no avail, they recently proposed fitting a "dry ridge system" where apparently the ridge tiles are secured from underneath and interlock so as to be water tight, I had a call earlier this week advising that the scafolders will be with us next week.
About an hour ago I heard a rumble / crash / thud, a ridge tile had been lifted by the gale force winds, rolled down the roof, landed on the conservatory!!!! and bounced on to the lawn. I have phoned the roofers though perhaps understandably they say that there is nothing they can do in such weather.
1/ Are we likely to get rain water coming in where the tile is missing?
2/ I assume we can hold the roofers responsible for the damage to the conservatory? It has a glass roof, effectively made up of double glazed units, which has not shattered or cracked though is at least chipped and grazed.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks.
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1/ Are we likely to get rain water coming in where the tile is missing?
As your is only a few years old (IIRC?) it should have good quality roofing felt, or an equivalent sheet membrane under the tiling battens. There should be a sheet lapped over the apex of the roof to prevent any water getting in. The felt should be a non-tearable type so the wind cannot rip it, but if it wasnt, that could only really happen if a lot of slates came off.
I'm in the attic room of our office and have just heard either a slate or a lump of mortar slide down the roof, and the lights have just flickered. Our office is a solidly built brick Victorian building, but with the worst gusts I can feel the building moving slightly as I sit in my chair!
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Doh! Your post says the house is 4.5 years old!
I meant to add, if you have a loft access hatch you could go up and have a look at the underside of the ridge.
Some links here to dry ridge systems: www.scrs.co.uk/products/pitched_roofing/dryfix_sys...m . I think some are meant to be installed as new-build, but this one: www.klober.co.uk/product2.php?id=9 says it may be compatible with your existing ridge tiles. I have no experience of this product, I just found the link.
Cheers,
Rich.
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I meant to add, if you have a loft access hatch you could go up and have a look at the underside of the ridge.
Thanks Rich, I had thought of that, getting in the loft and looking for daylight in the dark.
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Thanks Rich, I had thought of that, getting in the loft and looking for daylight in the dark.
Been up there, just the tiniest pin hole of light onece the eyes have adjusted, reckon it is fairly weather proof in the short term.
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I assume we can hold the roofers responsible for the damage to the conservatory
No you cant I am afraid. They seem to be acting in a professional manner, by suggesting a change of roof construction to overcome the limitations of the original construction. Would the ridge tile have come off and crashed through the conservatory if they hadnt been up there previously? very likely in this wind. You can blame them with this weather.
Just lost 15 metres of gutter in the last 2 hours, next doors fence is down, and some houses round the corner are sheding tiles like confetti.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Should be cant blame them of course
oh for an edit button
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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the limitations of the original construction.>>
TVM
They are the roofers who fitted the roof when the house was new, i.e responsible for the original construction, the roof has never been right, they have had a few previous goes at repairing before suggesting a new approach.
Hence surely they are responsible for any damage?
Thanks.
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Again, its highly unlikely. Given the current wind you would have one hell of a job proving negligence or responsibility. Today weather is exceptional.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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See my thread below, continuing from our rumble / crash / thud last week;
Insurance company bearing cost or repair.
Builder bearing the cost of ridge tile rework to the standard how it should have been done in the first place.
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ok! - don't laugh! need tips on how to shell a hard boiled egg!!!
got a few "chucks" couple of weeks ago, which are laying well, so well in fact that i have (had) a surplus of eggs. Thinks me, - right i'll pickle some of these, give to local landlady to sell, and she can give money to local charity.
so, todays boiled up 30 of said eggs, left to soak in cold water for 1hr to cool, and set about shelling them, this is where the disaster happens!, the darn shells seem to be glued on. Everytime i peel off a lump bigger than my thumb nail, it comes away with a lump of white attached!. I now have 30 eggs with with surfaces rougher than the moon, not much point pickling them, because they look so ugly I wouldn't be able to give them away. So this time i will suffer the loss, but for next time, Where did I go wrong???
billy
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you need to change the feed the chucks are on. Try peeling them warm?
I roll mine with the palm of my hand on the worktop like a rolling pin, quite firmly so you break the shell into crazy paving.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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It's because the eggs are so fresh. Leave them for a week?
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aah right, too fresh? could be!
just boiled two more, tried the T.V.M crazy paving method, shell came off bit easier, but i somehow managed to split the white in half during rolling :-(
As i was doing this, g/f came in and burst out laughing, after i picked her off the floor, i gave her the other one to do!.. first thing she said was "wheres the skin", apparantly there should be a skin? between the shell and the white? so if you peel this skin the shell comes off with it. these darn eggs havent got one! does this skin develop on older eggs then? trust me to have faulty "chucks" - no wonder i got em cheep!.
Feed: mixed grain, layers pellets, bag of kitchen waste from local resturant, pretty good varied deiet really!.
billy
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"Trust me to have faulty "chucks" - no wonder i got em cheep"
That has given me something I've lacked all day - a reason to laugh. Thanks.
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Too fresh is the right reason - lucky you! Also if in the future you want to make meringues in any form you need them to age too.
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I think that more air gets into an egg the older it is. That's why very fresh raw eggs should sink in a bowl of water and lie flat, and the older they are the more they 'stand up'.
So I assume the more air helps the shell to come off more easily, and yes there is a skin. I don't have a clue if and how it develops though!
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Delia says
Peeling hard-boiled eggs can be extremely tricky if the eggs are too fresh. The number one rule, therefore, is to use eggs that are at least five days old from their packing date. The best way to do this is to first tap the eggs all over to crack the shells, then hold each egg under a slow trickle of running water as you peel the shell off, starting at the wide end. The water will flush off any bits of shell that cling on. Then back they go into cold water until completely cold. If you don't cool the eggs rapidly they will go on cooking and become overcooked, then you get the black-ring problem.
and she should know.
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If you've never run a hen before make sure that you are fox-proof. There are loads more around over the last couple of years (don't go there), we are taking extreme measures here (within the law of course). SWMBO is very attached to ours and would be devestated if something happned.
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I second that - we lost all ours in one night courtesy our sweet litte victim, foxy, and it was for sport as none were taken or eaten. We are having a break from hen keeping as it was tooooo traumatic.
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Thanks folks for all your tips! who'd have thought something could be too fresh!.
next time i should fare better now thanks!
not much bother with foxes round here, allotment (where chickenopolis* is) is surrounded by other allotments where "hound dogs"are kept, Hound Trailing is quite big in this area!, thier constant baying must deter the foxes (hopefully).
cheers all!
back to my egg butties (and for rest of weekend) :-(
billy.
*borrowed from H.F.Wittingstall (River Cottage)
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back to my egg butties (and for rest of weekend) :-(
Hundreds of bizarre things to do with eggs..............................
bizarrelabs.com/egg.htm
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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and inadvertently T.V.M, you have just SOLVED the problem of shelling eggs that are too fresh!!
<< If you do this with a hard boiled egg, the shell will dissolve in the same way, and you will be left with a rubbery egg that should actually bounce (if not dropped from too great a height)>>
cheers
billy
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I was once told that fresh grass cuttings make yolks more yellow and tasty
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Continuing from www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=48094&...e
Insurance:
On receipt of quotation (scanned and e-mailed) my insurer agreed to the repair, instructed the roofer, and called me back to acknowledge, within the space of twenty minutes. Today, in advance of the work commencing, a cheque for the full amount quoted less £100 excess has arrived. Top marks, More Than.
NHBC guarantee:
I wrote to the builder, CC NHBC, and received a phone call to acknowledge receipt of my letter a day later. Today, just three days later, I received a copy of the job sheet instructing a local roofing sub contractor to do as I requested - lift all ridge tiles, clean, and rebed on correct mix mortar. Well done Bryant Homes, especially as it was Wilcon Connolly (now part of Bryant / Taylor Woodrow) who built the house. The personal quotation I have received for this work was in excess of £2200, so I am delighted that the guarantee is apparently to be honoured.
Today's storm:
Shhhhhhhhhhh. CRASH. Yup, another ridge tile has detached and slid down the roof, causing more damage as it fell. Ridge tile mortar and pointing is scattered from another section of roof all round our neighbour's car, too, luckily without hitting it. Yes, I have now suggested she move it, and she has!
From our front door I can see eight properties all with near identical damage to ours, all built by the same builder nearly three years ago with the same type of materials, at the same time. All other houses, including a listed barn that was built when Jesus was a lad and "newish" properties ten years or so old, are completely unscathed.
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SjB -snap!
See my post today re roof probs further up!
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I have just found two pieces of kingspan outside my front door. From the way its been cut and marked it has come from a roof. Cant see any house missing a roof, but worrying nevertheless.
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SJB. I should suggest that if you let your insurance company know, along with your various neighbours' insurance cos, then they might attempt to claim against the builder - and you'll get your excesses back and not suffer premium loading.
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SJB. I should suggest that if you let your insurance company know, along with your various neighbours' insurance cos, then they might attempt to claim against the builder - and you'll get your excesses back and not suffer premium loading.
Done earlier today, but thank you anyway.
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This is getting silly, you were typing ...
"See my thread below, continuing from our rumble / crash / thud last week;"
... precisely when I was typing ...
"SjB -snap! See my post today re roof probs further up!"
16:58 and 16:57 respectively - spooky!
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Scaffolders coming Tuesday, possibly Monday, roof repair cost covered.
The prob is the conservatory. I have e-mailed the builder with whom our original contract (the roofers were contracted by the builder) was with, they have acknowledged that the roof was not right all along, hopefully they will pick up the tab for the ensuing damage. Quote from the conserv co on the way.
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I have just rediscovered some super 8 movie films of our kids from the 70's. However, technology has since moved on and I now want to transfer them onto my digital movie camera so that I can edit the film. I the only way of doing this to project the super 8s onto a screen and set my movie camera to film what is on the screen?
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I like "give me back my google" I have ot admit i am starting to get browned off with the sponsored links, specially as they have no relation to your orginal query.
I mean if you search "chop off my goolies" in Google now, it comes back claiming that ebay and kelkoo have new ones you can buy
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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>> I mean if you search "chop off my goolies" in Google now, it comes back claiming that ebay and kelkoo have new ones you can buy ------------------------------ TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Do tell. Does this mean that you want to carry out the former, or the latter - or both?
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I was speaking figuratively
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I was speaking figuratively ------------------------------ TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
>>
That's a pity.
I sure you could make good money by charging people to watch that! ;-)
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Its a very limited career tho
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I mean if you search "chop off my goolies" in Google now, it comes back claiming that ebay and kelkoo have new ones you can buy ------------------------------
or if you google polomium, you get
Polonium
Polonium for sale. aff
Check out the deals now!
www.eBay.com
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Brilliant site. Old fashioned British ingenuity at its best.
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For no very good reason, I Googled "enriched uranium".
Sure enough - you can buy enriched uranium on Ebay!
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Bit of a long shot this.
Has anyone flown out of Manchester airport recently with a baby and buggy? My Mum is bringing my son back on Sunday and wants to know if she´ll be allowed to take the buggy all the way to the gate (it´s BMI Manch - Frankfurt). The respective websites are devoid of the relevant info, and my emails have so far gone unanswered.
Thanks,
Barchettaman
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Flew from there in November on Lufthansa (to Frankfurt with a buggy as it happens), but have also used Easyjet and Swissair (it was Swiss anyway) in the last 18 months without. Yes they all let people with buggies take them to the gate. At Frankfurt it is likely that she'll be bussed from the plane to the terminal. The buggy will be at the bottom of the steps and she'll need to pick it up and take it onto the bus. Someone will help her.
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Barking
0870 6070 555
The BMI special needs helpline.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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RF, I didn't know that Barking had an airport.
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AFAIK Babybarchetta doesn´t (yet) have special needs, but it´s still a bit early to say for sure if he´s going to fully take after his father or not. Cheers for the number.
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Next door has just sold up - to a property investor with a considerable portfolio. The sale was apparently nearly thrown owing to a contaminated land issue - neither vendor nor purchaser could explain what, or why, although purchaser's solicitor advised him not to continue with the transaction. This would clearly affect my own potential house sale.
Apparently, new legislation was introduced in January 2006.
Our terrace was built c 1848 - a very long time ago. So far as I am aware, prior to that time it was fields in agricultural use. The site beyond our back gardens is light industrial. (So light is the industry, in fact, that mostly it is either empty offices, archive document storage, or a coffee roaster/grinder.)
I have googled, to no avail. I have given myself back my google (if that be the appropriate pp) too.
Anyway, because the site behind the house is undeveloped, the purchaser's solicitor threw something up - presumably not a cheese sandwich.
Any ideas what on earth was going on?
Many thanks, as ever
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Oh yes... and apparently they paid £800 for some sort of indemnity against future effects.
Makes the £60 chancel repairs insurance look reasonable...
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yes indeedy, The environment agency publish maps
www.environment-agency.gov.uk/maps/
called whats in my back yard.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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For what it's worth, www.homecheck.co.uk gives free basic information on pollution (see tinyurl.com/yoygkz) with more detailed information on payment of a fee.
--
L\'escargot.
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you'd be amazed at the contamination that pops up nowadays, which wouldn't have been regarded as a problem even 10 years ago. I've had zinc and cadnium (?) contamination on two sites, which although is not the end of the world, means that if there are to be gardens, we have excavate 1m of spoil and repalce it, in case the homeowners grow their own veg.
Plus there was a change of emphasis a few years so that the landowner had liability for cleaning up the site. Which is why petrol station are de-tanked then sold, not the other way round.
As L'escargot (i think) posted, check out Homecheck. Better still, try and get to see your neighbour's report.
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does that mean some found an Ever Ready?
JH
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Anglian Water are in the initial stages of assessing the feasibility/necessity of installing a sewer along our road. Most properties have elderly cess pits which don't function too well, but we have a 10-year old septic tank which works OK and a more recently built property has a fancy sewage treatment system.
Assuming it would not be free, how much could we expect to have to pay for connection to a sewer? Our drains are about 25 metres from where the sewer would be likely to be. Also, if our block-paved drive was disturbed could we expect it to be restored to the existing standard without us paying extra?
--
L\'escargot.
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www.anglianwater.co.uk/index.php?sectionid=115&par...4
About halfway down the page, under waste water.
Not quite understanding you question though: i assume that you mean Anglian Water provide the main and you want to connect to it: therefore the cost of laying the drain is your shout.
It really depends on the depth of the drain; much below 1.5m and it starts getting pricey, plus take into account your local ground conditions. I budget £100 per linear metre for drains on my sites which covers granular material (stone) bed and surround, 100 or 150mm diameter plastic or clay pipe and backfill to a depth of between 1m and 1.5m. Add £400 for an inspection chamber or £750 for a manhole at a change of direction.
Add £184 for their fee for allowing the connection, and £266 for the infrastructure charge. Plus you have to physically connect, a Y junction might be a couple of hundred, or a manhole £750 plus (heavier duty construction as it's in a road). Plus any charges from the Highway authority while the work's being done.
Hopefully Anglian Water will provide a branch for your property while they lay the main. Or maybe that's too much like commonsense.
All in, allow £4,000 - £5,000 ish plus VAT as a very wooly guide. That's for the sewer only, i'm assuming that you're able to drain the storm water adequately as it is.
Good news: block paving is relatively to take up and relay, as long as the guys know what they're doing. No unsightly lines in the tarmac for you!
HTH
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Why would you want to connect to mains sewerage? When I had a septic tank (Cambridgeshire), it was about £100 to have the Council empty it. For a domestic property, how often is that: once a year? once every three years?
£5k is rather a lot...
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