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I Have A Question - Volume 166 - Dynamic Dave

***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 167 *****


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However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 166. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,

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PLEASE NOTE:

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Sky digibox playing up. - Imagos
Well my 6 year old sky box has developed a habit of locking up when rapidly surfing channels, which only unplugging the set from mains will cure.

It used to handle rapid channel hopping with aplomb but now can't take it at all. unplugging it all the time is becoming frustrating.

My Q is the digibox faulty? or could it be the LNB?

Would buying another cheap box on Ebay cure my troubles?

TIA.
Sky digibox playing up. - adverse camber
I would say the box. Could you plug it in at another property to confirm. cheap enough on ebay though.
Sky digibox playing up. - PhilDS
What software version have you got? Go to Services/ System Setup/System Details. You should be on v 3.4.4b at least. If not, you can then do the following (taken from www.digitalsat.co.uk/skysoftware.html ):

Sky Digiboxes normally update their software automatically overnight, but occasionally you may need to do a Forced Software Download. This may be required if your digibox hasnt been used for a while, and it's missed an update, or if the software gets scrambled for any reason.

The first thing to do is to note your operating system software details (SERVICES, 4, 5)


Below is the recommended procedure for a Forced Software Download:

(1) Put box into Standby.

(2) Remove the viewing card and put it back in the same slot UPSIDE DOWN (remember which way up/round it was!).

(3) Press and hold the Back-up button on the Digibox, not the remote control.

(4) Whilst holding the Back-up Button, switch off the power to the box at the mains - either with the switch on the socket or by removing the plug.

(5) Count to ten slowly.

(6) Keep pressing that Back-up button and put the power back on to the box;

(7) When all four lights appear on the Digibox, release the Back-up button If your Digibox is connected by SCART, there will be a message on the screen stating an update is taking place and that it can take 10 minutes. However, it can take longer.

(8) When the box goes back to a single red light, leave it at least a full minute before taking it out of Standby using the Sky button on your remote control.

(9) Remove the upside down viewing card and replace it the right way up.

(10) The box will switch to channel 998 - the Sky demo channel (it may say Searching for Listings - if so just wait until it finishes).

(11) When that clears, do a Services, 4, 5 to check to see the Operating System Version and/or EPG Software Version numbers have updated (the Model Number may also have changed)



Step 4 is neccessary because if you power off first and then press "Back-up", it does not clear all the old software so follow the above exactly for the most reliable results.

A word of warning - if things go wrong with a Forced Software Download, you could potentially ruin your digibox. I take no responsibility for any damage you might cause to your receiver.... DO NOT TRY A FSD IF YOU DON'T HAVE A GOOD SATELLITE SIGNAL.
Sky digibox playing up. - Pugugly {P}
www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=35

Very good website - bailed me out when Sky customer services lost the will to live.
Sky digibox playing up. - Dynamic Dave
My digibox is about the same age and after a brief powercut last night it's died.

I've had the channel lock up for quite some time, and generally it sorts itself out without having to resort to unplugging it.

Last night however, all I kept getting was the message "no signal being received". Unplugged to try and reset it. Checked the signal strength meters in the menus. Tried various other things, including checking for bird poo on the LNB, all to no avail. Well, not strictly true - I did briefly got a picture back up, but it was pixelated, then froze completely before the "no signal" message again. I also noticed a loud buzzing noise through the tv speaker whenever the sky card was inserted into the digibox. Silent when removed.

I've left it unplugged whilst I'm at work today, and will try again tonight. If no luck, then I'll do a continuity check of the coax cable, then it will look like a phone call to sky.
Sky digibox playing up. - Dynamic Dave
I did briefly got a picture back up, but it was pixelated, then froze completely before the
"no signal" message again. I also noticed a loud buzzing noise through the tv speaker
whenever the sky card was inserted into the digibox. Silent when removed.


Well I now have a sort of picture. Still pixelated, and the buzzing sound whilst the viewing card is inserted.

Spoke to Sky who talked me through everything I had already tried, but I perserved with their suggestions nevertheless. They *think* it's a digibox fault (make = Grundig). A service call will cost £65. For this they will replace whatever is necessary and guarantee the work for 90 days. An upgrade to Sky+ is £99, which at first I was prepared to go for, until the mention of an additional £60 for the installation ;o(

The fault *can't* be too serious though, can it? I have a pixelated picture, and a buzzing sound mixed in with intermittant normal audio from whatever channel is switched on. Will attack the digibox with a soldering iron when I get 5 mins, in case it's just a dry joint.
Sky digibox playing up. - Robbie
The Grundigs are prone to PSU problems, insofar as the electrolytic capacitors fail. This could be the problem, particularly as you have a buzz - could be 50 cycle hum.

Try this site for help. www.satcure.net/digirep.htm
Sky digibox playing up. - Dynamic Dave
Thanks Robbie. I did stumble across a few sites earlier when I googled that mentioned the PSU. Satcure was one of them. I'm fairly handy with a soldering iron and electronics, so once I get the lid off the box and can check to see if any of the capacitors have failed, I might have a go at repairing the PSU. Got nothing to lose by the looks of it.

If all else fails, I also stumbled on a post in a forum where it mentioned that one of the electrical retailers are doing upgrades to sky-plus for £109 (£49 and £60 install) at the moment.
Sky digibox playing up. - Citroënian {P}
Do either of you subcribe to Sky? If you've been bunging them £20/£30/£40/£50 a month for the past few years, they'll be happy to send a new box out to you - the digital sky forums can help here.

IF you're paying though, I'd seriously consider upgrading to Sky+ - assuming you're already using a premium channel so don't pay extra for it - a brilliant idea.

Or...if you're not subscribing and can get digital in your area, a digibox is cheaper than a pair of wiper blades these days, or even better something like a Humax PVR which will work like the Sky+ box without funding Sky. Also means you get More4 and E4 which you don't get on the free-to-view Sky stuff. So you can see Desperate Housewives early. Eh? Oh. Well, at least you can get the Daily Show then!


-- He\'s a cheeky wind-up scamster and he\'s on the radio....
Sky digibox playing up. - Dynamic Dave
Do either of you subcribe to Sky?


Certainly do. £36 a month, or something like that. All channels except the sports ones. I registered earlier to the forum Pug mentioned. Will have another look around.

Cheers Lee.
Sky digibox playing up. - SpamCan61 {P}
I reckon with a bit of moaning on your part they'll waive the 60 quid install fee for Sky+, they seem to for many people. Worth upgrading IMHO.
Sky digibox playing up. - adverse camber
dont forget that sky isnt the only option, there are lots of satellites up there showing a lot of stuff.

A decent FTA receiver like a dreambox or technomate will pick up a lot of things in combination with a motorised dish. and pvr functionality isnt limited to sky. Although I understand that some of the dreamboxes will work with a sky card as well. Also the avforums site has a looooooong thread about getting sky working using a PC with win xp mce and a dvb-s card

I find the alsat forum very useful for info on picking up things. We mainly watch the french stuff on 5w or tps at 13e.
Sky digibox playing up. - Dynamic Dave
Result!

Found a posting in the forum that Pug mentioned earlier

( www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=507279 )

that suggested if you contact Sky and go though the automated menu system to the "cancellation dept", existing customers can upgrade to Sky+ for £49 (Sky+ box is ½ price, and free installation) I should point out that there is a £10 per month charge on top UNLESS you subscribe to certain channels. Because I subscribe to the entertainment mix the £10 charge is waived.

Looks like it's not just mobile phones that can be upgraded easliy when you tell them that you are contemplating changing providers / cancelling subscription.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
I apologise for dragging this up again, but I didn't get an answer to one of my main questions.

Is there a greater tendency for steam to escape into the room if the door doesn't have a seal?

Obviously washer/dryers all have a door seal so the question doesn't arise with these, but as our washing machine works perfectly we are thinking of buying just a condenser tumble dryer ~ of which we have no experience.

--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - artful dodger {P}
Is there a greater tendency for steam to escape into the room if the door doesn't have a seal?

Lets think about what could be escaping if there is no seal. It cannot be steam as water has not been boiled, so it is hot air saturated with moisture. If the fit of the door is good then the amount should be minimal. Remember that moist warm air will condense on any cooler surface like a window or outside wall.

My advice would be to ensure you have a seal. Thought this was obvious for the above reasons.


--
Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
It cannot be steam as water has not been boiled,
so it is hot air saturated with moisture.


If I remember correctly from my Heat Engines course at University in the late 1950s, steam is a mixture of liquid water particles and air. Water vapour, which is colourless, is water in it's gaseous stage with no air mixed in it and unless it's in a vacuum it normally only exists close to the surface of water. Water vapour can be produced either by actual boiling or simply by mechanical disturbance of the water surface causing molecules to escape from the water surface. When water vapour mixes with air at a lower temperature the water vapour molecules condense and combine into small particles of liquid and the mixture (which is then visible) is called steam. The thrashing about of damp clothes in a tumble dryer will cause the release of water particles by mechanical disturbance of the water surface. Terminology may have altered in the last 50 years but I'm sure the mechanism of the mixing of water vapour and air producing steam is the same.
--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - Altea Ego
mixture (which is then visible) is called steam

Exactly, its not visible so its not steam. It is warm moist air.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
mixture (which is then visible) is called steam
Exactly, its not visible so its not steam. It is warm
moist air.


Whether it's visible or not depends on the proportion of water droplets to air, and the size of the droplets. In a steam room it's visible.
--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - Altea Ego
If you argument is that it needs to be visible to be called steam, the moist air that escapes from a tumble dryer is not visible so is not steam. In a steam room its visible which is why its called a steam room, because its steam.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
If you argument is that it needs to be visible to
be called steam, the moist air that escapes from a tumble
dryer is not visible so is not steam.


Fair comment. My wording was sloppy. I should have said "which sometimes is visible". I was just making the point that water vapour is colourless.
--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - IanJohnson
From the thermodynamics element of my degree course a few years back steam is just water vapour above boiling point - no air.

You would have problems in a power station if there was air in the steam - would mess up the boiler feed pumps a little (these pumps don't like a mix of gas and liquid - leads to cavitation)

Steam is water above boiling point. What many people call steam (what you see coming out of the kettle) is a mixture of steam (invisible) and water droplets in air (visible).

No relevance to condenser TDs. Just bear in mind that they are far more complex than the simple ones and ours cost us £20 for two thermostats a few weeks ago since they fail rahter than open and re-set when they cool down.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - No FM2R
>>Is there a greater tendency for steam to escape into the room if the door doesn't have a seal?

I woudl have thoguht the answer would be "yes". However, I've never seen one without a seal. If there is such a thing I would have thought it would be a very bad idea. These days with airtight, draughtless houses condensation is much more of an issue than years ago. Now in a house like mine where draughts are a way of life.........
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - Big Bird

According to HowStuff Works the fan is on the exhaust with most Tumble driers.

So the drum is under suction and any leak from the door seal will result in air going into the drum not air/moisture coming out.

So it'll take longer for clothes to dry as that air will not have been heated - but you wont get moisture in the room.

Dan
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
According to HowStuff Works the fan is on the exhaust with
most Tumble driers.
So the drum is under suction and any leak from the
door seal will result in air going into the drum not
air/moisture coming out.


That's reassuring to know, Big Bird.
--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
However, I've
never seen one without a seal. If there is such a
thing I would have thought it would be a very bad
idea.


I gave a Hotpoint CTD80 (which has a full width rectangular door) a cursory inspection and I didn't see a seal. On paper our latest preference is a Bosch WTE84102 which has a circular door. As soon as I see one in the flesh I'll make sure I look at it properly.
--
L\'escargot.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - daveyjp
From looking at the picture that's the one we have. Highly recommended. The water collection tray is in the top left hand corner - makes it easier to empty than some models (like our previous one) which had it at the bottom of the machine. Condensor is at the bottom behind a removable grille.
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - Altea Ego
One thing that has to be said, is that the size of the room makes a big difference to the operation of the dryer.
The condensor works by drawing in cooler air over the hot exhaust air, and collecting the water that condenses there.

The problem is, the hot exhaust air, heats up the room to a level where the cool air being drawn in is no longer cool and condensing efficiency plummets. You then get a room full of hot moist air being drawn over the clothes.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Choosing a condenser tumble dryer - L'escargot
One thing that has to be said, is that the size
of the room makes a big difference to the operation of
the dryer.
The condensor works by drawing in cooler air over the hot
exhaust air, and collecting the water that condenses there.
The problem is, the hot exhaust air, heats up the room
to a level where the cool air being drawn in is
no longer cool and condensing efficiency plummets. You then get a
room full of hot moist air being drawn over the clothes.


In that case it's fortunate that our utility room is next to the integral garage so we could leave the interconnecting door open* when using the dryer.

*I know that for safety reasons the door is a fire door and has a self-closing mechanism and that this will have to be over-ridden, but I'll risk it on wash days.
--
L\'escargot.
clear resin - embedding kits - rory
Afternoon all, I wonder if anyone can help. Years and years ago I bought a kit which came with clear resin, some 'fixative' and small platic beakers for mixing etc, along with bits and pieces like small watch parts etc. The idea was that you could make things like cuff-links, or cubes in which the watch bits ( etc ) would appear suspended. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I could find such a thing ? Google hasn't helped and the only 'craft' shop I could track down didn't know, although it was possible to buy supplies of the resin.

Thank in anticipation
clear resin - embedding kits - SpamCan61 {P}
I think that was known as "plasticraft" when i were a lad. The stuff on this link looks like it will do the job:

www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=...8

clear resin - embedding kits - johnny
IIRC it came with a dried seahorse.
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
Should a conventional ridge tile be seated on a bed of cement, or is it acceptable under normal building standards to simply rely on its own weight and some rendering along the edges? I noticed a few weeks ago that most of ours have "cracked" rendering, and att 06:05am we were woken with "ssssssssssssssssh", "crash", "bang". Investigation showed a large section of ridge tiling smashed to pieces on the driveway. Thank heavens the cars were, as usual, in the garage, I thought.

Unfortunately now dawn is breaking I can see the garage roof broke the fall along the way, and it now has a gaping great hole. Debris appears to have ripped through the waterproof membrane too. Will check the cars for damage when I go out later.

Just trying to assess a) whether the other ridge tiles are likely to come off and b) whether I have an NHBC claim (2.5 year old house) as the pieces on the ground show no signs of former attachment by cement bed.
How to seat ridge tiles - adverse camber
I would want them properly bedded. But I noticed a couple of weeks ago that a neighbour had theirs redone and the roofer just went along the edges and covered the old render with a ribbon on new mortar.

It might be that it was a cowboy, no name on the van.

I would do some reading up on nhbc before contacting them - I know there was a good deal of fuss a few years ago about their reluctance to pay out. I would be certain of how things need to be presented.

Also of course you want it fixed asap not to wait for them to inspect. Perhaps ensure that the roofer that repairs puts it in writing that they were not fitted properly in the first place?
How to seat ridge tiles - cheddar
Oh SJB, it seems we have a lot in common, twins, water ingress into a detached double garage and a now a problem with ridge tiles!

Our house has a slate roof though the garage roof is tiled, we have had ongoing problems with the mortar between the ridge tile and slate becoming detached and rolling down the roof, luckily the tiles have stayed put - finger crossed he says looking outside today - though lumps of mortar can do damage, the drive is far enough from the house so the cars should be OK though I have been concerned about the conservatory.

No such problems with the ridge tiles on the tiled garage roof.

The builders have attended to the roof on three occasions over nearly five years in each case re-mortaring the ridge tiles though to no avail, they now propose fitting a "dry ridge system" where apparently the ridge tiles are secured from underneath and interlock so as to be water tight.

Reckon it might be worth calling NHBC, though if due to gales it might be considered an act of god.
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
Thanks, Guys. Roofer due any minute, so will try to use his knowledge to make a judgement. Have read up on NHBC website, though my brother shares the scepticism about success in the event that I do feel I have a claim. One idea is to ensure that my insurer knows; perhaps they will then do some of the running as it is in their interest.

Thankfully, the cars escaped with no more than a shower of dust and some tiny slate fragments; thank heavens I keep large cardboard boxes in the garage roof...
How to seat ridge tiles - rustbucket
Ridge tiles should be bedded on mortar and pointed to shed water,cowboys just smear a bit of mortar on old joints to make it look good.
--
rustbucket (the original)
How to seat ridge tiles - Group B
Ridge tiles are normally only bedded on mortar along the long edges. Not laid on dry and then pointed up, but bedded on mortar then pointed. The mortar should be a 1:3 mix (cement:sand) which is stronger than standard bricklaying mortar.
The curvature of the tiles usually means they are not in contact with the timber ridge (or top of trussed rafters), so cannot be bedded in mortar over their full area. But if done properly they should last years, perhaps the mortar used was the wrong mix?

Rich.
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
Thanks, Rich 9-3; all exactly what the roofer has just said, and it is clear that ours have been bedded on narrow strips of normal brick laying lime mortar; the large strips of the stuff lying on the ground crumble and snap easily, and the ridge tiles show no evidence of adherance to the mortar; they are clean as a whistle where the mortar contact would have been, and likewise the mortar pieces show no evidence of dark grey ridge tile powder.
How to seat ridge tiles - adverse camber
I would be astounded if a new house has been built with lime mortar. Most builders dont know anything about lime, its either something that goes in lager or a plasticiser in mortar :)

I am all in favour of lime mortar btw, just lime and sand is the thing to use on old buildings.
How to seat ridge tiles - Martin Devon
I would be astounded if a new house has been built
with lime mortar. Most builders dont know anything about
lime, its either something that goes in lager or a plasticiser
in mortar :)
I am all in favour of lime mortar btw, just lime
and sand is the thing to use on old buildings.

ONLY the correct lime and aggregate please.

MD
How to seat ridge tiles - adverse camber
whats 'correct' then ? there is a lot of varied experience out there.

I take your point though.

I've made my own lime putty, made mortar from putty as well as bagged lime (various sand / clay / ash etc for flavour), made plaster. Not done anything to get a chemical set though. I might if I decide to play with Venetian plastering when the bathroom gets redone.

far more interesting than cement and gypsum.
How to seat ridge tiles - Falkirk Bairn
NHBC only covers major failures - like house falling down!

If the ridge tiles were not properly laid down the builder can still be held liable - sales of goods act!!

My son's house was 2+ years old when some of the ceiling in the bathroom came away - problem was that the extractor fan was not vented but the pipe left loose in loft - builder came fixed the venting, replastered ceiling, painted ceiling etc - That said the builder is regarded as one of the better National Builders - is yours?
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
is yours?

> out of business.
How to seat ridge tiles - cheddar
is yours?
> out of business.


Are you sure? Perhaps gone as a name via consolidation in the industry which so effectively trading under another brand.
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
Are you sure? Perhaps gone as a name via consolidation in
the industry which so effectively trading under another brand.


Funnily enough, during lunch today I did some research; Far from "going out of business" as I was told by a plumber, after our house was completed, Wilcon Homes, the builder, was purchased by Bryants, who are part of Taylor Woodrow.

Back to the problem; two roofers have now said the same thing today without prompting;

1) Wrong mortar for roofing (sure enough you can pick it off with your fingers and having chosen an unpointed internal area of garage wall to compare with, it looks identical to the brick mortar.
2) Slate or reconstituted slate roofs should not have ridge tiles held purely by mortar on the long faces (as ours area) because of the degree of flex and heat induced movement; I can understand such temperature varying movement, but have no way of knowing if this statement is factually correct. One roofer is suggesting that instead of reseating all the existing ridge tiles, if we intend to be here long term (he doesn't know, but we do), we invest in a "clip on / bolt on" system instead. I can see £££s here, but it *may* actually be a good investment...

A common point of professional view is also, just like here, that No Hope of a Buildings Claim is best forgotten, so I need to decide how to pursue Taylor Woodrow, and what proof I will need, versus cost of success and likelihood of success.

Informed comments as always appreciated.
How to seat ridge tiles - cheddar
Funnily enough, during lunch today I did some research; Far from
"going out of business" as I was told by a plumber,
after our house was completed, Wilcon Homes, the builder, was purchased
by Bryants, who are part of Taylor Woodrow. >>


As I thought, I would call the nearest Bryants office if I was you:

www.bryant.co.uk/ContactUs

Slate or reconstituted slate roofs should not have ridge tiles
held purely by mortar on the long faces (as ours area)
because of the degree of flex and heat induced movement>>

invest in a "clip on / bolt on"
system instead. >>


Our problem precisely, we have had issues since moving in to the house when it was new hence the original roofing contractor is at our beck and call, having re mortared three or four times they are now proposing a dry ridge system.

How new is the house? If less than 6 years or so I should call Bryants and outline the issue to their customer services, "unsuitable materials used" etc etc.

Makes .dlls seem like a piece of cake.


Good luck.
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
www.bryant.co.uk/ContactUs

Yes, ta; bookmarked earlier.
Our problem precisely

Sorry to hear it!
they are now proposing a dry ridge system.

Good to hear that our advice may be accurate
How new is the house?

New, not old, is the word; 2.5 years.

>>"unsuitable materials used" etc etc.
Will speak to insurer for advice in the first instance - as soon as I have the requested quotes for storm damage repair and "fixing the underlying cause" repair - and if I'm on my own without their vested interest, then call Bryants.
Makes .dlls seem like a piece of cake.

;-)
Good luck.

Thanks!
How to seat ridge tiles - Martin Devon
N.H.B.C.

No House Built Correctly.

MD
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
NHBC only covers major failures - like house falling down!


Hmm, to balance this common view that I have also historically subscribed to, what did my father say?

"I would argue the case strongly with NHBC that the problem arose from malpractice and you expect this malpractice to be rectified. I had no bother when I complained to NHBC re the downpipe not being connected properly to the surface water drain. They told XXXXXXXXX to fix it, and they did, after I told them that I would not accept a soakaway solution - clay does not "soakaway" and is another malpractice."
How to seat ridge tiles - Group B
SjB,

Just a thought, you probably already have done but if not, bag up and save some samples of the defective mortar. As a last resort, you may be able to send some samples off to a lab to test for cement content, or compressive strength (sounds excessive I know!), to prove the wrong mortar was used. May cost £35 - £50 per sample but i'm guessing. I suppose there is plenty more on the roof!

You could try someone like SGS Testing www.uk.sgs.com/contact_us_uk , but there may be someone else local to you. Some Local Authorities have their own testing laboratories, which may be cost effective (our local council one is competitive on cost but slow to provide info.).
How to seat ridge tiles - SjB {P}
SjB,
Just a thought, etc...


This is great, thanks! I had already saved some tiling, ridge tiling, and mortar, but not thought to use a testing service. Will invoke if proves necessary.
How to seat ridge tiles - daveyjp
2.5 years is no time at all for ridge tile mortar to require replacement - I would expect 10+ years. Sounds like someone has been cutting corners during construction.
How to seat ridge tiles - buzbee
I put a few of my ridge tiles back on after the 87 (?) storm using a 3:1 sand cement mix , put underneath them with the tiles tapped down so it squirted out and they are still up there -- I am not a builder.
How to seat ridge tiles - PST
SjB

I wouldn't rule out contacting NHBC as a first port of call. I've just checked my documents with them (on a 4 year old house) and years 3 to 10 specifically include roof damage (tiles etc) under their Buildmark scheme. I had reason to call them recently over some poor plumbing in my house (which wasn't covered) but you may have better luck.

I suspect that your buildings insurance might not allow a claim if it was due to poor workmanship (mine wouldn't) and if they do presumably you would then face higher premiums come renewal time.

I know NHBC haven't covered themselves in glory in the past but maybe premature to write them off? At least they were very apologetic on the phone when telling me I wasn't covered :)

Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - legacylad
My TV stopped working 18 months ago, and I am finally going to bite the bullet and purchase one of these LCDHD 'thingies'. (Also because a friend wants his portable back after loaning it to me for a month in mid 2005!). I also plan to join the 20th Century and buy a DVD/R thingy. ..the 21st Century can wait.
The more I read about these things in the specialist magazines the more confused I get. All LCD HDTV's seem to have an inbuilt Freeview these days, as do decent DVD/Rs, so I seem to be duplicating my requirements.
I have decided to buy a 37" TV...lots of choice, but what should I do about this DVD/R ? I realise I do not need to buy the same brand of TV/DVD for best compatability, but they should be of a similar standard....my student HiFi days tell me that a system is only as good as its weakest link.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - Stuartli
You need an inbuilt Freeview set to prevent obsolescence - once the analogue transmissions cease a standard set would otherwise be useless without a Freeview set top box.

The Freeview boxes convert the digital signals back to analogue in the case of analogue CRT or LCD/plasma sets.



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What's for you won't pass you by
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - Stargazer {P}
All LCD HDTV's seem to have
an inbuilt Freeview these days, as do decent DVD/Rs, so I
seem to be duplicating my requirements.


You will eventually require Freeview (or digital tv) decoders in both the DVD recorder and TV otherwise you will not be able to record one program on the DVD recorder while watching another on the TV.

I would heartily recommend getting a DVD recorder with a Hard disk as well.....most stuff gets recorded, watched and deleted, no need to burn to disk unless particularly good. Saves having to keep a stock of blank dvds.

StarGazer
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - Stuartli
Further to Stargazer {P}'s point, the splendid Humax 9200T Freeview DVD recorder with a 160GB hard drive has two Freeview tuners; you can record two different programmes and still watch a third on the (Freeview) TV itself. See:

www.humaxdigital.com/uk/products/pvr-9200t.asp
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What's for you won't pass you by
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - buzbee
Yes, agree, I had have a 9200T for just over 12 months now. Has been OK. Depending on the length of program you save it is good for about 80 programs before the hard disk is full and you need to do some deleting to make space.

There is a competitor with two tuners but I don't know how it compares.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - SpamCan61 {P}
there are many twin tuner hdd models now, even down to the 100-120 quid models. The humax 9200 and the Topfield are the only ones I know of that have a USB output to allow (painful) transfer to PC. I don't know of a model with this functionality plus a DVD recorder built in.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - nick
Further to Stargazer {P}'s point, the splendid Humax 9200T Freeview DVD
recorder with a 160GB hard drive has two Freeview tuners; you
can record two different programmes and still watch a third on
the (Freeview) TV itself. See:
www.humaxdigital.com/uk/products/pvr-9200t.asp
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What's for you won't pass you by

This doesn't seem to be able to record or play dvds. Or am I reading it wrongly? A good piece of kit but I would want to be able to play and record dvds as well.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - adverse camber
Nick,
I think the 9200 is a hd recorder only - but I think you can stream to a PC over usb (or maybe ethernet?) and write to dvd there.

on the tumble dryer front - any chance you could let me know where you got the bit behind the knob on your Bosch? They deny it exists to me.
thanks
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - nick
on the tumble dryer front - any chance you could let
me know where you got the bit behind the knob on
your Bosch? They deny it exists to me.
thanks

Try www.espares.co.uk, I'm not sure if this is the place I bought from as it was my dearly beloved who ordered it. If you do a search on ask or google for 'bosch spares' several others come up.
The bit was about £12-13 and was an easy DIY fit, better than the £70 call-out (or whatever it is)and Bosch prices for the bit.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - nick
Sod's Law, I've just found the place I bought the tumble dryer spares. www.partmaster.co.uk owned by Currys.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - adverse camber
thanks
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - Stuartli
>>This doesn't seem to be able to record or play dvds>>

Not surprising as it uses a hard drive rather than blank DVD disks.

It's an advancement on DVD recorders that only record to disks. If you wish you can connect a VCR or DVD recorder to the PVR-9200T and transfer the recorded programmes from the PVR.

Any questions you might raise about the Humax can be solved at:

www.humaxdigital.com/uk/support/faq.asp
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - nick
I'd like both in one machine. I'm trying to get rid of boxes under the telly, not buy more!
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - SpamCan61 {P}
Surprisingly(?) I'm not aware of any one machine that actually features twin DVB-T tuners, a HDD and a DVD burner, other than making one's own based on a PC - which would be real 'fun' judging by the general levels of hassle with PC tuner cards.
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - Stuartli
The nearest you would get to what you require would perhaps be this JVC model (www.dvdrecorderworld.com/news/270 which is £655 at tinyurl.com/y7l2g5 ) or a DVD recorder using disks and recording on a DVD-RW or RW disk, such as the Panasonic DMR-EX75EB-S, DMR-EX95VEBS (combi with VHS recorder to transfer tapes to disk) or the DMR-ES15EB-S.

Some general advice available from Which? at:

tinyurl.com/y6l888
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What's for you won't pass you by
Replacing a duff TV with LCDHD - nick
Thanks for the tips, Stuartli
Planning matters & possible compensation - Steptoe
My dwelling is on the edge of a village and has a very large plot which is generally considered, by normal folks, to be suitable as a separate building plot.

My OPP application about 15 years ago was refused on the rounds that the proposed vehicle access was deemed to be sub-standard; my subsequent appeal was also rejected.

As a completely separate planning issue, yet another saga, a vehicle access leading directly onto this plot was finally approved about 2 years ago.

As a result of yet another application for OPP last year, it has transpired that the planning department had redefined the village development boundary in 1999 to bisect my property and specifically exclude this plot from redevelopment, this of course was the reason for refusal this time.

I have made suitable representations, as my research indicates it is not good planning practice to divide a property with this boundary, and have had a promise to *review* my situation when the Local Development Plan is implemented this year.

With past history between myself and the local planners I am not holding my breath on this score, so would value board members opinions as to whether I would have a snowballs chance of hell in claiming compensation from the planners as a result of the perceived reduction in the value of my land as a result of excluding it from the development area ( I hinted at this option in my representation in the hope of concentrating minds! )

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One mans junk is another mans treasure
Planning matters & possible compensation - L'escargot
........... members opinions as to whether I would have a snowballs chance
of hell in claiming compensation from the planners as a result
of the perceived reduction in the value of my land as
a result of excluding it from the development area ..........


I would have thought the value of a particular plot of land could only be determined by how much someone offered you at the time at which you decided to sell it.
--
L\'escargot.
Planning matters & possible compensation - Baskerville
not holding my breath on this score, so would value board
members opinions as to whether I would have a snowballs chance
of hell in claiming compensation from the planners


Somewhere in that ballpark. Since they were working to policy they are hardly going to compensate you when the policy changes. I actually know a farmer in a similar situation, with the greenbelt boundary bisecting his land. He's built houses on part of it but the planners quite rightly refused permission to build on the greenbelt.
Planning matters & possible compensation - mare
With past history between myself and the local planners I am
not holding my breath on this score, so would value board
members opinions as to whether I would have a snowballs chance
of hell in claiming compensation from the planners as a result
of the perceived reduction in the value of my land as
a result of excluding it from the development area ( I
hinted at this option in my representation in the hope of
concentrating minds! )

Bear with me, i'm struggling to articulate this.

I can't see that you'll get compensation, as there is no reduction of value. You can't claim for the reduction in value that PP adds because you haven't got the PP in the first place. And to be honest, the planners won't care, and they're fairly immune to people jumping up and down, because they get all the time.

Build your case for the inclusion of your site in the development boundary and concentrate on this for now.

There may be other factors that make the planners reluctant on this plot. It could be of course that they don't like you, but do step back and think why else the planners would think that your plot shouldn't be developed, or at least developed to it's full potential, otherwise your application after redefinition of the boundary may fail for a different planning reason. Conservation area? Views? Rubbish access further down the road? Head of planning lives next door (joke!)

HTH
Planning matters & possible compensation - Steptoe
Thanks, folks, confirmation of what I guess I really knew,...sob...

High stakes to play for, of course, with the current price of a building plot in this area, but what is really galling is that during the 30 years I have lived in my cottage, new development has encroached right up to my village boundary and on the opposite side of the road, yet for my applications I seem to have this love-hate relationship with the planners; they love to say no and I hate them....
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One mans junk is another mans treasure
Planning matters & possible compensation - Pezzer
Steptoe, could a good Planning Agent help ? Cant claim to know much about them, but they were mentioned to me when I had a planning permission issue recently.

Rgds
P
Planning matters & possible compensation - mare
In response to Pezzer's post, the thought of an agent crossed my mind, after all one of my partners in our development business is a planning consultant.

What also crossed my mind was the site i've just bid on where the planning officer has succeeded in ostracising the council, the local community and English Heritage (and a third of the site is a Grade 1 Listed Building at risk), and the site took three attempts to get through whereas it should have sailed through.

Choose your agent with care. An architect with a good relationship with the local planners would be an equally good bet though.

mare
Planning matters & possible compensation - Hugo {P}
In response to Mare's post, it certainly helps to build a good relationship with both the planning and building control depts at your local council.

Steptoe, were there any objections to your proposal? Can you rally up some support for it?

I have an application going though at the moment (fingers crossed), and whilst I do not have the experience that Mare has in these issues (this is my first one), I would second his last sentance reading:

"Choose your agent with care. An architect with a good relationship with the local planners would be an equally good bet though."

The architect we are using is a friend of ours. Steptoe, I suspect one of your posts answers your own question "love hate relationsip etc". Now may be a good time to step back and find a good professional that has a track record of dealing with that particular planning dept.

Planning matters & possible compensation - Mapmaker
I really don't understand why you think that the rest of us should subsidise you because you have not managed to make a killing from building a second house on your garden.
Planning matters & possible compensation - Steptoe
Wise words, Hugo & Mare, it helps to get an objective view which I why I asked on here!

As the consensus of opinion is that I can have no issue with the realigning of the development boundary, I won't antagonise the council further by trying a compensation claim but rely on their consience ( is that an oxymoron?) and my submission to hope that the new Development Plan includes my land rather than bisects it.

I had used a well-known (to the planning Dept) planning agent for my last application, but before I apply again I will try an informal chat with the planners to ascertain any objections. (the Parish Council were in favour)

I am likely to move within the next five years, hence the timing of the last application, the dwelling would have been sold with the benefit of OPP on the plot, so if all else fails I will try one of those dodgy sounding concerns who will take on borderline cases ( apologies if any Backroomers work for one of these however I would like to hear from you ;-) } and take a hit on the price.

Once again thanks to all who offered advice
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One mans junk is another mans treasure
Planning matters & possible compensation - Mapmaker
Ah, well if selling within five years I suggest:

1. Build a wall between your current garden and the second putative plot.

2. Sell the house with only the reduced size garden. It is unlikely that it will reduce the value of the house by anything.

3. Continue to hold the putative plot and wait. And wait.
Planning matters & possible compensation - Steptoe
Mapmaker,

That is a brilliant suggestion, I have been brooding over the situation for a long time but that solution hadn't occurred to me.

The purchaser of the house may well then make a offer on this plot to make his garden bigger!
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One mans junk is another mans treasure
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - PoloGirl
I'm currently taking part in a project which requires me to submit a video blog/video diary at various points - they only have to be up to 3 minutes long, perhaps that's important for what I'm about to ask.

I have a phone that takes video, and when O2 eventually sort my contract out, I'll be able to email these to myself and forward them on. However, I want the ability to edit my videos on the PC - simple things like cutting out mistakes, adding captions and having music and things fade in and out. Perhaps that's not so simple but as I know nothing, I'm kind of assuming it is.

I have an ancient digital camera (Nikon Coolpix) and I know that more modern digital cameras take viedo with sound, so to upgrade that might be an option, and kill two birds with one stone. However, I think within the next few months I'll be swapping to a digital SLR, and as far as I know, the decent ones of these concentrate on photography rather than having video capability too. Again, I could be wrong!

So...I think I need some kind of video camera, but I have no idea of what I need - DV, HDD, HDV, SD... the list of jargon goes on and on. I have a few requirements:

i) I like the simplicity of just being able to connect via USB or stick a card in a card reader and have it all there ready to use/ edit.

ii) I don't have kids and can't see myself ever being one of those people who bores everyone to tears with hours of badly filmed holiday videos, so being able to record/store hours and hours of footage isn't really a requirement.

iii) Small would be good - the project involves walking/hiking, and I don't want too much extra weight in my backpack!

iv) As above, much of the filming will be outside in the wind/rain, so being robust, and having a decent mike that wont just record the wind would be a plus.

I can't think of anything else. I went into Jessops today and they seem to have lots up to the £300 mark (I know they come in a lot more expensive but gut instinct is telling me I don't need an £800 one for what I want to do) but I don't know what I need.

Any advice gratefully received!
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - rtj70
Some thoughts/questions:

1. What phone do you have. Many that take video also have memory cards (my last two Nokia's did) and if you save the video on that you can use a card reader on the PC to read the files. Quality of the image and especially sound likely to be an issue though.

2. I have upgraded to a digital SLR recently. I confirm from my research none of the ones I looked in to (Nikon, Canon, Sony, Pentax, etc.) does any form of video. Technically I cannot see a reason why not except the mirror would have to remain in lock-up for quite a while. This probably part of the reason. In fact the only dSLR that I know of that does live viewing of the scene before picture taken on the LCD is the Olympus E-330 (maybe it's predecessor the E-300 too?)

3. I have had two Sony MiniDV camcorders. First was fine until smashed in a car accident. Replacement Sony lots smaller and lighter but not used much since my last holiday (where we had the accident). Seems fine but it is a MiniDV tape device and the video takes up lots of space. You can however record lower quality video to the memory card. The new, replacement does widescreen to and nearly all the original did for about £200 less. But it is still around the £300 mark.

4. Can you borrow a camcorder to see what sort of sound you get from inbuilt mic when out walking, especially when windy. I don't use mine in conditions like that although might use for filming scenery etc. My original Sony that got smashed would take an external mic (so could have used one not so affected by wind with one of those fluffy covers) but the replacement will not. One feature which surely would not have cost much.

5. My Sony camcorder is pretty small and light though. Smaller than one that records onto mini DVDRs

6. If you went down the MiniDV camcorder route, you're probably looking at transferring using Firewire although USB2 should also work. This takes as long to transfer as the clip itself because it plays back the tape. So a 10 minute video takes 10 minutes to transfer.

7. My Canon compact camera does video but limits this to 30 seconds! Regardless of memory size. If you upgrade to a new compact camera check out th length of video clips allowed. But you'll love a dSLR and these are pretty cheap now and may put you off upgrading a compact camera. As a mod sure you can email me with questions on dSLR. I spent months choosing between Canon, Nikon and the new Sony Alpha. New Nikon d40 nice but no focussing motor in the body (hence size) so you cannot use lenses with inbuilt motor - even though it's only 6 MP if you read enough you'll know why pixels on a dSLR not such an issue nad more a marketing game.... drop us a line :-)

One final thought, if this is for a blog that ends up on the net, maybe the top quality not so important. And if you had a proper camcorder you might have to rescale video and that can be a long process on typical PCs. So maybe you can get a demo of something simple like the cheap flash based "camcorder"? Not suggesting this one is any good but this is the type I refer to: www.microdirect.co.uk/ProductInfo.aspx?ProductID=1...5
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - PST
I just went through the exercise of choosing a digital camera and with the "convergence" of technologies it's not an easy choice these days i.e. do you go for a camcorder that is good at taking stills or a still camera that can do video (or even a phone for that matter).

As usual it really depends on what your main two or three requirements are....mine were still pictures, good battery life and compact size. But what I've ended up with might be a good compromise for you - I've just checked out it's video facility and it seems very good. It's a Fuji F30 compact camera. Cost under £200, only 6MP but as rtj70 says that's not an issue and it is fantastic in low light (can produce useable ISO3200 pics) ! Plus a battery life of over 500 frames.

A great site for reviews of this and other cameras including SLRs is at www.dpreview.com and the specific camera is
www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilmf30/

On the other hand although your vids only need to be 3 minutes you might need to shoot more than that prior to editing and with your sound requirements might decide that a camcorder is the best option. MiniDV cams can be bought for under £200 and these will give you the best quality and ability to edit on a PC. Not as convenient as the HDD models (e.g. from JVC ~£350) but I've heard it's difficult to find decent software to edit the resultant Mpeg files (someone with more experience might correct me here).

But to sum up I'm amazed at the Fuji F30 (especially it's low light capabilities) and you might find it does your video job and dSLR (from a convenience/quality perspective) all in one!

Paul

Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - PST
I forgot to add - the dpreview site also tests video mode on those cameras that have it which seems to include one or two SLRs...
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - Baskerville
As I've mentioned before I have a Canon A620, a terrific sub-200 quid compact that takes stills good enough for glossy magazine publication. It also takes good video and you can use the optical zoom while you're taking it, which is important--not all stills cameras allow that, so check. The length of the video is limited only by the size of the SD card. As luck would have it one of the many accessories is a waterproof case that allows you to use the camera while it's inside. File format is AVI.
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - PoloGirl
Thank you so much all of you. I might still buy a video camera down the line and your advice has been very useful. However, an hour or so playing with my phone this afternoon (a Sony K610im I think) I discovered a wonderful thing called VideoDJ, which does all that I could want it to do. I have been able to piece together several videos, text and music, just as I wanted. The quality isn't brilliant, but it's more than adequate for what we need.

The only sticking point came when I transferred the video from the memory stick to the PC, and the PC wouldn't play a 3gp file. I downloaded a converter but a 1.7MB 3gp file became a 716MB AVI file, so I thought all was lost, but the 3gp file is quite happily uploading to YouTube at the moment, so I think it might have all turned out ok in the end!

Thanks again
Digital (video) cameras / camcorders? - rtj70
You should be able to get a 3gp coded installed on the PC to view the file in it's native format. When I installed the Nokia software on my PC I got a 3gp codec so you might get one installed in a similar way.

A quick search found this: www.free-codecs.com/guides/How_to_play_3GP.htm

Also for the non-technical people out there, the reason a small 3gp file became a large AVI file is that 3gp is based on MPEG4 which compresses video far more efficiently than say MPEG2 and obviously more than a non-encrypted format would be. AVI on the other hand is a form of media container for video files and could be one of many formats - AVI standing for Audio Video Interleave. So an AVI file could actually contain almost any video type including MPEG4, MPEG2 or be uncompressed.
Planning Permission - paul45
I recently received a letter from the district council outlining plans for an adjoining property seeking planning permission for a three storey extension. I objected on a number of grounds, most of which was due to the fact that the proposed new building would cut out light and overlook what is now a private garden. I received a letter last week stating that although my views had been noted, the permssion had been granted.

I was going to appeal against this decision but wondered if anyone knew of a way in which I could increase my chances of success?

Any views much appreciated.
Planning Permission - mare
From the other side of the fence as it were;

Establish that it would actually cut out light and would overlook the garden, rather than relying on your perception that it does. I'd be surprised if the application got through without measures or conditions imposed to prevent the overlooking e.g. no windows on x elevation.

As for the light issue, I recall that there is a right of light, that you *may* be able to claim compensation from the owner for your loss of light, I'd had it before where we bought a neighbour's right to light off them, but i don't know any details, sorry. You would have to demonstrate that you have suffered a loss of amenity.

The planners should have noted your concerns. In Bristol, they list issues such as these as "Key Issues" in the commitee report, in which they outline the issue, e.g. overlooking, debate it and make a decision e.g. there is no issue as they are no windows, or condition the permission so that no windows can go in a certain elevation. I've no reason to think that other authorities do it much differently. You will have the planning application number on the letter notifying that the permission was granted. Go to your local council's website, then to the planning dept, then into the planning portal. The application, plans, objections (including yours), and the commitee report and the actual finalised permission will be on there. Read the permission and see if there really is a problem. The planners, despite what people think of them, only follow guidelines and your chance of success would be fairly small if they have followed the rules laid down by Govt and the local planning policies.

There is i think only a six week period in which you can challenge the decision, so be quick. But as i wrote, and with the greatest respect to you, do check that your perceptions marry up with the actuality, and that you have a leg to stand on first.

HTH
Planning Permission - henry k
I am no expert on the subject but I too have a neigbour who has built a rear ( single story ) extension that has significantly reduced the light in our rear room.

We checked with the planning dept re the basic rules.
They said IIRC " draw a line at 45 degrees from the centre of my window towards my neighbours site and the extension must be within that line.

The problem with this is, the rear of our house faces North so we loose a lot of sun into what is a fairly cold room.
We miss the sun in the summer months. Unfortunately ( for us) there is no allowance for the aspect of the house.
Planning Permission - Stuartli
>>the rear of our house faces North so we loose a lot of sun into what is a fairly cold room>>

Our main living room at the back of our property faces directly North - there is no direct sunshine at any time for obvious reasons.
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Planning Permission - Group B
I was going to post that I did not think you had a "right to light", as I have heard it said this is the case (I dont know that much about planning). But I have just looked on the RICS website, which states that you do have a right to light under particular circumstances.
The definition of right to light is stated here: snipurl.com/17iyy .
Also it states "Broadly speaking, the minimum standard is equivalent to the light from one candle, one foot away." Which doesn?t sound like a lot of equivalent daylight to me?. www.rics.org/Property/Propertymanagement/right_lig...m .

The proposed extension should not have any windows overlooking your garden, the planners are usually very strict on that (unless it is more than 12 metres away from your boundary). If there were windows overlooking on the planning drawings, the planners may have declared that the windows are not permitted, or that they must be fitted with frosted glass. Have you seen copies of the plans that have actually been approved, these may differ slightly from the original application drawings?

I would 'phone the planning department a.s.a.p. and the find out which planning officer dealt with the case (probably on the letter they sent you). And arrange a time to go in and discuss your concerns with him/ her...

Good luck with it..
Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - BobbyG
I currently have phone, broadband and TV through Telewest and it is quite dear ie.

phone line £11.00
TV package £17.50
Broadband £25.00

and I subscribe to Setanta as well which is £14 pm.

Now having to do major cost cutting and I get a card through the post from BT offering Phone and Broadband for £20.70 (first 6 months) and then £28.74 after that. So quite a bit saved there. (Incidentally, any Telewest / NTL customers out there got a reduction by phoning up and threatening to switch?)

TV, we only tend to watch the Terrestial channels and Setanta so thinking of maybe getting a freeview box that we could subscribe to Setanta on and therefore saving the £17.50 a month.

However, and this is really my question, with my cable box I am able to feed it through the house to the 4 other TVS by standard RF aerial cables. On each TV we can watch any Terrestial channel we want, or the cable channel that is selected on the box. I assume that on the back of the box I have the telewest cable coming into the box as well as my own house aerial.

If I get a freeview box, will I be able to do the same? (sorry about all the other irrelevant info) Do all Freeview boxes basically do the same (apart from the Hard Drive ones obviously)
Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - rtj70
I got about £20 off my bill (two different reductions) for 6 months by threatening to switch. You need to speak to retensions. Told someone else and they got a deal too. I forced it easily by referring to Sky's broadband product on the way and the fact extra boxes are £15 each on NTL and only £10 on Sky. Okay after 12months Sky offers no warranty and NTL will still swap.... and one box zapped this year during a lightening strike but I digress.

I too am thinking of switching from NTL. We have both an NTL and BT phoneline but one option seems to be Sky for Internet and TV:

- Sky broadband now in our area and for sky customers, £5pm gives upto 8Mb broadband with 40Gb Cap. Or £10pm and upto 16Mb and no cap.
- Extra boxes (we have two) only £20 with Sky whereas the two boxes with NTL £30 (15 each)
- We don't really need the extra phoneline and spotted for £7.99pm I could get a Vonage line with unlimited local and national phone calls! NTL's line is £11.

So seriously thinking. Only reasons not to change:

- Have to pay upfront for the extra two boxes although would go for one Sky+ on one and so that is actually an advantage .... NTL does not have a similar service to Sky+ yet
- NTL currently cutting my bill after speaking to retentions, by £20pm but so far only for 6 months. They'd have to continue.
- Employer pay half the broadband cost but if I reduce broadband cost the expenses would cost more to process than I got! I could not really expect £2.50 processed by BACS although I could batch them over a few months I guess.... so go for the £10pm 16Mb package.

Still not sure yet because of what I get back and NTL broadband and TV have been really reliable. Two faults on broadband in over 5 years and I hear Sky have had lots of problems and I work from home a lot.
Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - pmh
If I get a freeview box, will I be able to do the same?

Some freeview boxes (Sony and Panasonic def) have a UHF aerial loopthro facility but most of the cheaper do not. My Panasonic came at approx 60% of 'list' price from John Lewis as I made them price match Richersounds! Whether you can do this on current model I dont know.


--

pmh (was peter)


Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - daveyjp
Bobby G - I get phone (with free weekend calls), cable family pack (every free channel) and 2MB broadband for £30 from NTL/Telewest. Before I added broadband I had phone (all calls chargeable) and family pack TV and it cost more than £30.

Give them a call and ask them about their latest bundle offers. If you add things over time it gets expensive. NTL are also tied in with Virgin Mobile and a mobile contract can be added to packages.
Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - Stuartli
One of the best Freeview boxes you can buy is the Humax F2 FOX-T. It's more expensive than the run of the mill cheapo, but it's so good it's been in production for about three years now and still going strong. See:

www.beststuff.co.uk/humax_f2-fox_t.htm

www.humaxdigital.com/uk/products/f2-foxt.asp

My best mate sells plenty of these, along with the Humax PVR 9200T twin tuner DVD recorder with 160GB hard drive, and he has plenty of happy customers as a result.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Sky vs Cable vs Freeview - Pezzer
BobbyG, I have also just called NTL retentions and got them to trim my bill down. Some liberal mentions of their own 3 for £30 deal, Freeview, Broadband for Orange Contract customers got them to give me 2MB Broadband for £9.99 per month, cut my £11 TV plan in half for 6 months, so now I pay less than £30 (exc call charges) for at least the next 6 months.

Rgds
P