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An amusingly alliterative anecdote.
Ahem. Now that's out of the way, I'll get to the point.
I got to sleep at about 3:30 this morning, due to the neighbours across our back fence, who have a hot-tub, and aren't afraid to use it. While doing so they listen to music at a very high volume, and don't seem to see a need to turn it down just because it's ridiculously late.
We've lived in this house for about 5 months now, and this has probably happened 7 or 8 times, including twice when the following day was a weekday (although those two only went on till about 1am). I was thinking it would only be a summer problem anyway, since it'd get too cold to hot-tub (apparently not so far) and also now it's cooled down we don't need to have the windows open (they actually seem to have turned the music up to compensate).
I've not quite managed to do anything about it so far, because I've never been able to decide what is the correct course of action. This is where this thread, and your advice comes in.
Them being neighbours across the back, I've never actually spoke to them, or even met them to nod to or anything of the sort, so I have no idea what sort of people they are.
Options as I see it:
1) Next time it happens, go out to the back garden in my dressing gown, try to attract their attention, and ask very nicely for them to turn it down. This seems the most reasonable course of action, but it has one great downside - if their reaction is in any way negative then any further action is clearly me. I really like this house we've moved into, I really don't want to ruin it with a neighbour dispute.
2) Ask 'someone in authority' to take action next time it happens. As above, this seems better because it allows me to remain anonymous, but is it a bit extreme as a first step?
I have found this link on the local council website:
www.congleton.gov.uk/?t=785&lmt.e=1025,1149,1158#T...r
Should I use it?
Any comments, advice, or further options will be gratefully received. Please don't advise me to murder them or hole their hot-tub, I might just get desperate enough to do it!
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Ok, the first thing you need to do is a keep a diary. IF you raise it with "authority" they will tell you to do this as a matter of course, so start now.
Have you canvassed opinion from other neigbours? what do they think?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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im with TVM keep a diary if they are blaring music at that ime then they have already set their stall out and probably leave their 'brass' gold on while in the tub,you will not get any reason out of them trust me.
keep a log and talk to your neighbours but be aware they will all to a man say it doesnt affect them so its you that will have to do all the running (once sorted all your neighbours will then tell you that they hated it too) all your neighbours will be cowards im afraid
shotgun into the tub would be my first reaction but i dont want to spend 5 years in a police cell(prisons full see)
best of luck ive been there
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Or do what my friend did. Requires a certain amount of nerve though.
Walk round to garden, turn music off, and tell them in no uncertain terms that people are trying to sleep. Make enough noise and your other disturbed neighbours will join in.
Worked for her.
Or turn a hose on them.
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One needs to be careful when confronting noisy neighbours - for a variety of reasons.
When you come to sell the house, one of the questions in the contract (I think) is 'Have you had any disputes with the neighbours' - or words to that effect.
The repercussions could be expensive - you could lose the sale - if you lied, and were found out, the purchaser could sue - presumably.
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The main problem with dealing with it in some of the ways suggested above is clear. If you deal with it while music is being played, you will be emotional. The people playing the music will be emotional at having their enjoyment interrupted. Additionally, you will be having to speak above the noise, which willl almost certainly lead to a shouting match, as it will be perceived as aggressive.
My suggestion would be that you visit them in daylight hours and discuss the matter. While this might seem more diffcult, it's probable that you will get a more reasoned response. Additionally, if you phrase the opening to the conversation as "I know it's important to you to have time in your hot tub; how about we find a way to let you do that without causing any sleep problems for the neighbours?". Then if you DO try to resolve the issue of how they can spend time without upsetting others, it'll probably end up as a more positive conversation; it won't be a complaint, it'll be a resolution.
V
PS. Alternatively, shoot them.
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One needs to be careful when confronting noisy neighbours - for a variety of reasons. When you come to sell the house, one of the questions in the contract (I think) is 'Have you had any disputes with the neighbours' - or words to that effect. The repercussions could be expensive - you could lose the sale - if you lied, and were found out, the purchaser could sue - presumably.
I agree entirely. That's the reason, having considered what people have written here, that I have decided to start down the 'complaint to the council' road.
I've done it as an email to start with, to be sure of explaining the situation fully, and I've specifically said that I don't want to cause any trouble for the neighbours, I just want there to be some sort of official request for them to be quieter after midnight. That gives them the opportunity to agree, and we can see where we go from there.
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Turn your Hi-Fi on, LOUD!, with the speakers pointing towards them on the morning straight after their fun - if they have gone to bed at 3, I suggest about 5 or 6 am should work well.
They'll get the message.
Number_Cruncher
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The council have sent a letter back which basically says talk to them yourself.
So, we move on to plan B. I'm still not comfortable going and knocking on their door or shouting across the fence, as I know how easy it would be to say the wrong thing and end up with an argument, so we're going to write a nice, friendly letter, and post it through their door.
Basically says that we understand they've probably never even realised how badly the sound of their music carries, we wouldn't dream of asking them to not have their time listening to music, but would it be possibel to turn it down after midnight.
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Before you do , as TVM said have you canvassed the other neighbours to see if they are fed up too? It's better if you can say in your letter that a number of people are upset by their selfishness rather than just you.
Additionally, I would rather talk to them than write a letter. Your letter will be discussed between everyone who visits their house and laughed off as a 'Victor Meldrew'. You'll get little respect. Talking will give the opportunity to negotiate. Try and catch him by off-chance and bring up the problem in a friendly manner.
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Adam,
Look at the Yamaha YDP-131, well reviewed, comes in rosewood and cherry, Yamaha are a top name in musical intruments, Google "YDP-131", can be had for well under £500.
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Will do C.
I'm actually going back today to measure the box (should have done that yesterday really) to make sure it'll fit in my uncle's car. But I'll research the Yamaha in the meantime.
Thanks,
Adam
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I have no idea what happened to my post yesterday but I'll make it again.
Just to say thanks for everyone's help. I got the Casio one in the end. It's pretty big so I've had to move some of my stuff out of my room but it's well worth it. Looks really nice and sounds fantastic.
I must confess, I was a little dubious about it being a Casio but whether it's the acoustics of my room that help or not, I don't know. It sounds pretty much identical to a decent piano and doesn't sounds keyboardy or electronicy (new words) in the slightest.
Should have done it a long time ago.
Thanks again,
Adam
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Ok, this is kind of motoring related so mods please feel free to split it off if you think it will stand alone as a thread.
Yesterday morning Hants Highways decided to install "Dragons Teeth" around a grassed area on both sides of the enterance to our close. These are 3ft high wooden posts to stop cars parking on the verge. Now I managed to stop the process by parking both our cars (legally of course) on the verge so the workman could not install any more then they had already. These are being put in with no consultation from us as residents, after a phone call to the engineer who instructed the work it turns out there has been 4 complaints from a close with 30 houses!!! But no consultation with the rest of us, the engineer also admitted he visited only once during the day when there is never any parking issues.
However in the evening and on weekends parking gets very tight, the garage block is full as are the on road spaces, this means that normally betwween 1 and 3 cars park off of the road on the verge. This has been the case in the 3 years we have lived here and has never been a problem - the problems will arise by taking away that area for us to park.
Both areas a reached via a drop kerb so there is no issue of damage, and the grass is in excellent condition, better in fact then our front garden!! so we are doing no damage by parking there. My question is can anyone think of any legal approaches I can make to make them reverse their descision, I am already polling the other residents and have gained agreement from the head of hants highways that the work will cease until we have had a chance to speak with the head of our local highways dept whose subordinate authorised the work.
I would also point out that the next nearest place we could park is at least 300mtrs away and would then cause problems for the residents in that road who have their own parking issues!!!!!!!!! There are also safety issues, cars parking on the verge act as a traffic calming measure and slow down traffic coming in, the bollards will also make great playthings for the local kids, bringing them to within 3ft of the kerb!!!!!!
Any thoughts welcomed.
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The proposed work to install the posts should have been fully publicised first to allow those involved to raise any objections - my local council provides a six month period for such objections (such as for proposals to put down double yellow lines etc).
Worth checking if this was done and whether local residents were advised of the proposal.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Nope, even the engineer admitted that there had been no proposals, just a works order issued - his defence was that as it was highways they do not need to notify anyone!!!!!! The things look bleeping awful, They even called the Police to try and get me to move my cars, yet would not actually meet in person to discuss the issues!!!!!! The Police asked politely if I would move them, and I replied politely that I would not as they were not parked illeagally, council doing a good job of wasting Police time!!!
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If the grass verge is within a council area then the council is responsible for maintaining the highways and should have published the fact that the proposal had been approved in principle, allowing for any objections to be raised.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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We are in the process of getting these installed around our village green to stop people parking on it and making a mess of the green. I do find it difficult to believe that people are parking on grass every day without doing any damage to it.
I would guess that the complaints are from the residents who live adjacent to what should be a green space. Leaving aside issues like you have no right to park there and may be breaking several laws in doing so, You probably need to find out who owns and has responsibility for the land in question (could be different people/bodies). Then find out why the action is being taken. You might want to look into products such as grasscrete (think its spelt like that) which isnt as bad as it sounds - a sort of mesh that grass grows through but stops the ground getting churned up.
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Mark99,
The complaint seems to be from someone who feels their house is devalued - and funnily enough they are just about to put it on the market, and he even uses the grassed area when his drive is full!!!!! Now as for damage to the grassed area, I can say 100% that it is in exactly the same state now as it was 3 years ago when we moved in.
I have actually now started to receive back some drop cards that I posted to all the residents today, the respones so far are that they should be removed and full consultation entered into, so I hope that more come through the letterbox tomorrow and that the council finally realise that they need to consult residents about things that effect them.
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Looking through a box of inhereted items came accross a gold (?) Record make watch, it's engraved on the back as presented to a long dead relative. Just wondering about its background. I reckon it must be a 50s 60s watch. I don't want to sell it - hust curious. Web says a bit but not much.
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PU
I had a Record chornograph given to me as a 21st birthday present back in 1970. Swiss made, I think, and reckoned to be the next best thing to a Breitling in those days. I loved it. In those days I did some club rallying and it got well used for that. Sadly I don't have it anymore. My body fluids (ooer!) seem to rot even gold watches and it went the way of all things.
So your heirloom is a quality item, but what its value might be goodness knows - anything from scrap value to £1000!
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Terry
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Annoying - I asked this question a while back, and got a great answer - but forum serach comes up with zero ! Anyway, need a nice 'french' hotel in Paris, for one night, not mad expensive but nice (for birthday treat for Her Indoors)....
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Annoying - I asked this question a while back, and got a great answer - but forum serach comes up with zero
Found some of you asking for a hotel in New York, Rome, Germany, & Salzburg - but nothing for Paris. Unless it was a particular chain of hotels that was mentioned?
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=34...5
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=42...6
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=25...3
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=39...2
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Arnold
Point your pointer to:
www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotels-g187147-Paris_Ile_de_...l
Everything (and more) you've wanted.
AA
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Does anyone know if any bluetooth headset will work on any bluetooth phone.
I have a samsung E720 (it has an o2 sim card in it) and there is an o2 headset on ebay I might be interested in.
Will this o2 headset work on my phone or does it have to be a o2 phone?
Cheers for any help.
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It will work, no problemo. any bluetooth works with any bluetooth. #
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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>>any bluetooth works with any bluetooth
Just a tad to definitive - most bluetooth works with most bluetooth. There are annoying exceptions. In addition, just because they can see each toher, they may not be able to use all [sometimes any] of the functions available.
Do test before spending a fortune.
However, it is *not* related to the SIM, nor which MNO supplied the phone. I suggest you chweck compatibility on the website of the handset or the headset provider.
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My wife recieved a free headset with her (O2) phone. But I can't connect to it with my (Orange) phone. There seens to be some sort of lock to O2 on the headset.
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I think it might just be general incompatibility Mr Cool.
As far as I know, operators don't (can't?) lock headsets because the headset wouldn't know which network you were on.
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Your probably right Adam, but no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get my phone to even "see" the headset, never mind connect to it.
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My Motorola Headset won't connect with my Blackberry, so I'm getting a new version of the Blackberry - beauty of being a boss and knowing who to moan at, not that I need a headset......;-)
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beauty of being aboss and knowing who to moan at, not that I need a headset......;-)
Pah! Just stick it on my bill.
MD
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In my experience I have found that Nokias are much easier to find / pair with Bluetooth than Motorola are.
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Central Heating won't turn off.
First the system set up. Don't know what it would be called as I've only ever had combi boilers. Upstairs it has a large hot water storage tank with two smaller tanks to the side of this (one above the other) the bottom of these two has a pressure gauge and can be topped up via a valve. Downstairs is the gas boiler. There is a control panel to set the timings of the heating and water and a separate thermostat. All but two of the individual radiators have thermostats.
The system has worked fine for the last five months but a couple of weeks ago it started to go wrong. The heating will not turn off when the timer says it should be off (ie. left in auto). It will go off if I switch the control panel to 'off'.
Thinking that the control panel was at fault I bought and fitted a new one (different make but straight swap on the back plate) but this has not solved the problem.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
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Do the zone valves move ?
I would guess a failed valve. Its sticking open.
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Yer possibly zone valve jammed open, try giving it a tap, or wiggle the little lever on the side.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Sorry, I have no idea what the zone valve is.
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The zone valve is a square silver tin sitting on the junction of three pipes, probably somewhere near your hot water tank or boiler. It will have wires coming out of it and a small lever sticking out of the side.
Its used to divide the heated water from the boiler to either the central heating, or the hot domestic water, or both, The timer drives a small motor in the zone valve, which in turn opens the valve and makes a switch in the valve. Once open the switch provides power to the boiler/pump.
which is why we think its stuck open.
the small lever on the side is a manual valve opening lever to aid bleeding and filling the system, wiggling it might free up the valve.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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TVM - Thanks Very Much. will give it a try later.
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Funnily enough we have a sticking zone valve at the moment so our CH will often be on when we just select hot water.
I wonder if your CH is still on even if the timer is not selecting HW or CH. Thing is if the timer is OK but the zone valve faulty then with everything off on the timer (but the boiler switch still on) the pump should not be running. You may get a slight gravity circulation around the rads but noting like the whoosh of hot water that heats the rads when the pump is on.
If you are saying (like ours) the CH is on when just HW is selected then it will likely be the zone valve like TVM says. Ours crud up and seize every 4yrs or so & need a new one.
David
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Its not that simple David.
typical wiring the ch &hw feeds go from the controller, through the various thermostats and then to the zone valve motors.
a bog standard zone valve is two things in one box - a motor driven valve and a microswitch.
the feed to power the pump and the boiler doesnt go through the controller - it goes through the microswitches in the valve, so if the valve does not close properly the microswitch doesnt turn off the pump and boiler so you can easily have the heating and/or hot water on even when the controller says they are off.
wiring is slightly different if you have a 3 way (or Y) valve rather than a pair of 2 way valves, but the principle still applies
If one comes on while the other is one there are other possible problems - you might need a pressure regulating valve in or there could be other problems with the installation.
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Thanks Mark.
Perhaps I'm speaking from an older (25yrs) system experience. Mine has a three way Y type valve that "seems" to be hot water by default but can motor to either CH or HW alone. Having said that I've never asked for CH only so perhaps it is HW or HW/CH as its two options.
It may be a mistake but my boiler and pump are both fired the moment the timer says go regardless of valve position. I suppose that is OK with a Y valve?
I guess over the years there were a huge range of ways plumbers could fit the things!
David
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Yes Y plan can be done differently. There are various differnt Y plan zone valves with different default positions.
The thing about Y plan is that the valve is always open to some extent. With S plan everything can be closed.
I think they do it to keep homeowners from messing about ;)
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Update
Couldn't find a zone valve as described but after some searching I found (boxed in under hot water tank) what I think must be doing a similar job. There is what I imaginge the pump (Red - quite big) and the pipe coming from this splits with a 'T' section. There is then a plastic box on both of the pipes with what i imagine a valve underneath. both the boxes have a sliding lever and electrical wires coming out (to the timer switch?). The lever moved with no resistance for about half the length of the box and then felt springy on both boxes. anyway, no change to the system.
My question now is - do I need a plumber or an electrician?
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My question now is - do I need a plumber or an electrician?
A plumber should be able to do it. If the valves feel like their moving freely then you may get away with just replacing the motor units that sit on the top - after a while the microswitches fade and become inoperative, hence the problems. However we found that the valve itself had to be replaced anyway about a year later after the problem re-occured (Y valve btw).
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Mike Farrow
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Yes that sounds right. Try googling for S-plan systems. The two boxes with wires will be the zone valves. You should be able to feel which pipe stays hot to identify the one with the problem.
If you stand and look at the valves while someone else turns the CH &hw on at the controller then you should see the levers move on the valves as they open and close (assuming that the thermostats are set to a point that things would come on)
If the valves seem to move cleanly (compare the two) when commanded by the controller then its probably the microswitch. If one doewsnt move properly then its probably the motor.
A new two port zone valve will be in the order of £40-£50. Zone valve Motors for most brands can be had cheaply (under £10) If you look at the boxes you should be able to tell the manufacturer and model number. (some have slightly different wiring - so if you diy it its easier to have one exactly the same)
If you are lucky the installer may have put isolation valves on either side of the zone valves or around the valves and pump. If not then you will have to drain the system - the valves should be able to be locked open manually for this purpose - Difficulat to explain without seeing what you have.
If I was getting someone in I would go for a plumber rather than an electrician.
One other thing you might try is turning the pupm speed down if its controllable. You can get similar problems caused by not having a bypass valve fitted. Any decent plumber would sort this out.
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At work I have a fireplace that I am thinking of fitting a log burning stove into. I feel sure some BR?s will be able to advise.
It seems that the chimney must be lined with a stainless steel liner. Is this the case, as when I contacted building control for some advice, they were slightly vague and said if a liner is fitted it needs to pass building control. However that raised the question, does the chimney need to be lined? This part of the building is late Victorian and the chimney was last used about 9 years ago and therefore will be needed to be swept. A chimney sweep I contacted said he could fit a liner and recommended to only use a 125mm (5?) as it is easier to fit. However the price he quoted of £950 made me laugh, as the materials would cost less than £250 at retail prices for the best quality ? the internet is so useful for prices.
The fireplace can accept a stove readily as everything else complies with building control regulations, and only the blanking plate will need to be fitted at the base of the chimney.
There seems to be a number of models available, but I am only looking for a small one 5-8Kw, probably multifuel. Some web sites are quoting known brands that start at £450, whereas on ebay they start around £200. I know the difference is the ones on ebay are made in the Taiwan. Are these cheap ones any good and/or do you use one.
The plan is for me to fit a liner with a friend, if deemed necessary, and install the fire myself. Has anyone else done this and are there any tips you can offer?
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Roger,
I fitted a wood burner (has a coal grate too) about 6yrs ago and it was one of the best jobs ever in the house. Brilliant bit of kit. It is a modest size but heats a 15'x12' room with ease. If the door is left open the heat flows along the hall, up the stairs and does the bedrooms a bit as well!
It is a decent brand but I forget the name... about £450 I think. I did look at the ones in Machine Mart which I guess will be the EBay quality ones you mention. I did not like their fit/finish. They way they are put together is crucial for a good burn. Air leaks in unwanted places, or from poor joints that move as the stove heats up, are a pig to get rid of. I know two families in the village that put in these cheaper stoves and then removed them after the first winter because they would roar away out of control.
Ours has fine sensitivity and will reliably operate backed off so it is almost out.... to producing heat that would keep a blacksmith happy.
The advice I was given with our old 1920s brick chimney just to have it swept as long as it had previously proved fine with an open fire. After all the combustion of these stoves is far more efficient than an open fire so less harmful pruducts deposited on the chimney I guess.
You are right once you consider a liner it has to be to spec and a poor liner is worse than none at all.
I knocked out our fireplace back to the brick square then made it good and quarry tiled the hearth. The stove pipe goes straight up from the top of the stove through a steel closure plate that sits on angle brackets bolted into the chimney inner brickwork.
Make sure you get a stove with upper (above the glass door) and lower draft control. The upper vent allows air in that controls surface burning material like wood as opposed to coal that likes an under-draft. This upper draft control is the one that allows the burn to self-clean the glass. Nothing worse than a stove with a sooted up glass.
I would look for a make that offers above average claims in the clean glass area because they are a pain to clean.
The last thing I can think of with branded vs cheap is the black finish. In 6yrs ours has never needed re-blacking. It looks nicely used but no rust. Some of the cheaper ones are a rough casting with a quick blow over of matt black and they can go to red rust in a year or two. Be very wary of gloss enamel ones, they can chip easily and are much harder to touch up if damaged. They do look flash though.
HTH
David
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I have fitted one last year and will be doing another in the next couple of weeks.
If your house is victorian then you should get the inside of the chimney checked before using without a liner. You might be OK, but its likely that the inner lining of mortar will have failed - I checked ours by using a webcam on the end of a chimney sweep brush - although it looked OK I lined anyway - It is advised by the building regs people. (Building Regs Part J by the way) If you line it you need to get a liner specifically for solid fuel. Again its recommended that 6" is the smallest that should be used with a woodburner.
Flexible double skin liners come in from about £20/m. They are installed by feeding them down the chimney, you then need to fit a device to support it at the top - either a suspending cap or steel plate. At the bottom you will need brqckets and attachments for connecting to the solid flue pipe, a register plate of steel or fireproof board. The fun bit is standing on the roof feeding it down - it isnt that flexible and may be why the sweep quoted so hgh - how high is the roof? would they need a cherrypicker or scaffold ?
As to stoves, 8KW isnt that small. They recon on each kw heating 15 cubic meters, plus add 1kw to requirements for non double glazed windows. A stove over 5kw has to have an air supply (air bricks/ducts or similar) rather than depending on the airflow in the building - also needed if you have extractor fans or other things like boilers in the same room/area.
Steel stoves heat up and cool down faster than cast iron and are cheaper. Much depends on what you want in terms of style. Go to a showroom and look at some then go online for prices. harridge seem to be well priced - depends where yo uare though.
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Roger,
Here is the stove we fitted... the Belfort... 2nd down the page.
www.franco-belge.co.uk/pages/fbmultifuel.html#
At 5.5kw it is easily capable of overheating the room so like Mark says an 8kw is possibly too much. If your work room is large so that is why you are thinking of an 8kw to heat it all bear in mind it will be unbearable near to the stove if you are using the max output.
The instructions for fitting our stove may help with some general advice.
www.franco-belge.co.uk/pdfdownloads/newinstall0706...f
Looking at that has reminded me why we didn't need a liner. Our chimney had been used with solid fuel for 75yrs without interuption so it was somewhat proven, after sweeping a torch inspection showed it to be sound, it was on the inside wall of a semi and back to back with next door's chimney which is used 24/7 with a woodburning C/H stove hence the chimney is always warm and gives no condensation problems.
BTW in my first post I said about the stove heating right through the house "with the door open*... this was with the sitting room door open not the stove door!
Mark.
I was remembering the in-law's similar stove installation into a 1960 chimney required some sort of concrete (?) liner lifted up through the existing chimney section at a time. Fiddly and very expensive... wonder why they did that?
David
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David,
Problem with a lot of chimneys in relatively modern houses is that they were only designed to service gas fires. The requirements for a flue on a gas fire are far less onerous. One of the other options (depending on the chimney structure) is the chimneycrete solution - they put a big balloon down the chimney, inflate if and pour concrete around it. Once set they let down the balloon and voila a new concrete lined chimney. But thats not cheap either and probably not a good solution for an old (pre WWI) property
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I have 3 stoves in the house and would never fit one without a stainless liner. The heat from a stove is far higher than from an open fire and this presents a fire risk in some old chimneys - it is not unknown for joist ends to be exposed inside a chimney.
You can test the integrity of the mortar with a smoke pellet (using your nose not your eyes) or using pressure equipment, but it is wise to work on the assumption that it has failed - this is especially important if rooms above are occupied.
I have two Arrow stoves - pretty good and one Clearview and I would never buy any other brand. Clearviews are streets ahead, but they cost more. As always, you get what you pay for
For ventilation, allow one sq inch per KW - yes I know that's a muddle but easier to remember than the precise metric.
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Thanks BR's for your replies.
The advice about air leaks with cheaper stoves has certainly ruled those out. The tip about having air control at the top and bottom of the stove was also something I di not know.
Yesterday afternoon I spent a while looking at stoves on the internet and top of the list at present is a Villager Flatmate for £420 at tinyurl.com/ymvm5f or Villager Bayswater for £495 at tinyurl.com/yze4de .
The room it is to be fitted in is not large, about 3x3x2.5m, but it does open onto the main gallery space and my office. The rest of the building is heated by night storage heaters that are not achieving enough heat during the coldest and windiest time of year. The building is single skin brick and single glazed (with some sash windows), also the front door opens frequently - sometimes blowing open of gusty days despite a strong door closer. So the heat loss is quite great and the only additional heat can be added with expensive fan heaters. A stove that can add more lots heat as required is a big bonus, beside being relatively cheap to run compared to fan heaters.
One of the attractions of a stove is that I can burn framing offcuts like picture moulding, mountcard and paper, which are currently being burnt outside. So I will no longer have to store these materials until I have a calm day. I anticipate these materials will be used to rekindle the fire after being left overnight. A good source for seasoned logs is located nearby with 1 ton loads for £35, all I need to do is see where I can store them.
With regard to the chimney, I think I will line it to be safe as there is an occupied flat and there isa room alongside the flue. The chimney is relatively easy to get at as there is a leaded flat roof above part of the upper floor, and the top of the chimney stands about 2.5m above this. I have a sectional ladder that I can secure to the chimney for safe working. This flat roof means working should be easier as I can lift the liner up there before starting to fit it. I intend to use a stainless steel cowl that also supports the liner and incorporates a rain cap and bird guard.
The closure plate can be steel as mentioned, but I will probably user a fireproof material available from a builders merchant, sorry cannot locate the material's name at present.
All in all I think I have sorted out the main points and will now start to find the cheapest prices for everything I need. Then I will contact building control with my proposals to see if they want to inspect.
Thanks again for your advice.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Dodger, you send like you know what you're doing so feel free to snort with derision at this most basic of advice - keep your wood dry! £10 of tarpaulin will make life a lot better for you.
Also you'll find that if you're burning wood, really load the stove with fuel and then trim the flow of air depending on how the wind speed outside is affecting the draw, otherwise you'll spend your day feeding it one log at a time. Stoves like to be crammed with wood to get a good bed of ashes which helps a steady burn - remember wood burns with air flowing down over it, coal with flowing up under it.
I'd also have a bit of coal to put on it last thing, it's very hard to keep logs in overnight, coal is much better for starting the over in the morning.
If you planing to keep the thing going consantly get a hot ash caddy from stove shop.
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>>£10 of tarpaulin will make life a lot better for you.
I was thinking of making a simple leanto to protect it from the worst of the weather. There is a good place I can do this close to the back door.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Havng just skimmed through this particular subject. a few points come to mind:-
1) A BS904 grade liner can easily be fitted. Chimney specialists usually use an infill poured between the outside of the liner and the inside of the original flue to hold it in place.
2) A fire rated above 5KW will need a permenant air vent to outside. There are 2 ways to determine the area of said vent. One is 550mm Sq per KW over 5 KW, or half the area of the flu of the appliance. Area is Pi X R sqd. Pi = 3.14.
3) If this is done by a HETAS registered contractor then you will not have to pay the BCO fee.
4) I would look at the Charnwood County 4 unit. rather than the villager products. I have a villager Chelsea in one of our properties and a Charnwood 4 in our own house. The glass on the Charnwood keeps clean due to the airwash system, whereas that on the Villager is permanently filthy, and has to be cleaned regularly by the tenant.
5) Use well seasoned wood by all means. Use smokeless fuel BUT AVOID HOUSE COAL!
6) Consider a Eurocal or similar on top of your chimney pot
7) Get your chimney swept at least once a year. If I am correct all the woodburners you mention would allow you to sweep through them - you don't need to remove the stove to sweep the flu.
8) Unless your chimney is in very good condition or there are no other rooms that fumes could leak into GET IT LINED!
9) If you have a wooden lintel nearby or any timber or combustuble material you will need to talk to HETAS or get advice on minuimum distances from the flue, and protection of timber structures from the flu if these can't be met. I can actually set fire to newspaper by holding it against the flu of our 19.5KW solid fuel boiler when it's on full.
10) Woodburners fall into two categories WRT construction. Boiler Plate and Cast. Boiler Plate warm up more quickly but cast retain their heat better. Cast tend to be bolt together whereas boiler plate are welded. Cast last longer than boiler plate but boiler plate can be repaired by welding, whereas cast may need more components to be sourced, which may or may not be available when you need them.
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Hugo thank you for your comments.
1. I intend to use a s/s liner. The chimney sweep I spoke to was also going to use a s/s liner, preferably 125mm (5") rather than 150mm (6"), which is recommended by building regulations. No mention of infill was made by the sweep in his £950 quote.
2. The room already has an air vent fitted of adequate size.
3. The sweep I contacted was HETAS registered and mentioned no fee was payable if he fitted the s/s liner. I was aware this is a notifiable job to building control.
4. The Charnwood was in my list of stoves and the Villager was mentioned as it seemed a good brand and was available at a discounted price. It is comments from people like you who have experience of different brands that helps me make the right decision. I will look closer at the Charnwood.
5. Most of the time I will be using logs during the day and then coal overnight. I had read elsewhere not to use house coal. In my village there is a coal merchant, plus 2 other places I can buy bags of smokeless coal.
6. I presume you mean something like this: tinyurl.com/y65929 or tinyurl.com/yykoa8
7. Is it better to use a stove pipe with a door or just remove it for sweeping?
8. Getting it lined was my intention.
9. I have checked out the distances of wooden objects and they all seem to be above the minimum distances quoted, the same applies for the hearth and floor. That 19.5Kw must be a monster compared to what I am intending.
10. I did read something about the difference in stove construction, but I am looking for a good quality stove that will last at least 10 years, not a Rolls Royce model. So cost considerations do come into the calculation for my ultimate choice.
If any one else has any useful tips I would be glad to hear them.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Hello
I have located a scam online shop for expensive watches. I will not post details here to avoid upsetting the moderators. I sent an email to the sales department (from a dummy hotmail account) asking how much they had made from fraud. Here is the reply:
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Hello Pete,
Thursday, October 19, 2006, 4:38:58 PM, you wrote:
> So, how much have you made from fraud?
200k Eur, but i need a ferrari for the christmas. You know my girl
like that beauty. We don give money to s***s like crime org or other
stuff. We keep for us. :)
BYe,
Thanks for shopping with us.
====================================================
Does anyone know how to ensure that this scam site is brought down ASAP? Perhaps they have a service provider who can be informed?
Thanks. Leif
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first thing to do is identify the web host
you need to look up the real owner of the server.
go to www.dnsstuff.com/ and in the box for 'whois' lookup (third one down on the left) enter the name of the site eg myfraudsite.com You will get back the details of the supposed owner - likely to be false but you should also get the registrars info - check that they are a real proper company first, then complain to them. you could also check the abuse contact lookup - but it may go to the fraudsters
Again with dnsstuff use a reverse dnslookup to get the ip address which is behind the name.
then do a lookup to find the owner of the IP address - that will be the hosting company - check them and complain.
If any of it is in the usa then go to ftc.gov and fill in the online abuse/fraud report.
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There have also been several instances of scam electronics and computer related products websites in recent months with UK addresses - the websites are very convincing until you look somewhat more closely.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Hello,
I have come across two types, 1) a knob that is either turned to switch on and set the level 2) a knob that is pushed to switch on and turned to set the level. However I am after something that has a shallower profile, i.e. only protrudes from the wall as much as a normal wall switch.
Does anyone make dimmers that have a recessed rotary thumb wheel to dim etc and an adjecant switch so it is both low profile and the level can in effect be preset with the thumbwheel and switched seperately?
Thanks.
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Like this?
tinyurl.com/wxb6f
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yer
click on dimmers and timers.
My mum has one of the remote control jobbies, uses it from her granny chair.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Like this? tinyurl.com/wxb6f
It'd be interesting to know what that site is. My work computer won't let me on it due to it including "criminal skills".
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Interesting filter. It's an electrical wholesalers www. tradesman.co.uk. They do stock burglar alarms!
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"I have come across two types, 1) a knob that is either turned to switch on and set the level 2) a knob that is pushed to switch on and turned to set the level."
I have a touch-sensitive knob. The light comes on when you touch my knob and grows brighter if you keep your finger on it. Tap it a second time and the light dims.
My mother in law can't keep her hands off it.
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If that isn't an open goal, I don't what is.............
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Thanks all, I have bought one this PM, type 2) "a knob that is pushed to switch on and turned to set the level", it has click stops so can in effect be preset. Job done.
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I am looking for a (very) cheap pair of half moon specs.
I've looked at several internet traders and can't find any halfmoons
Are there any cheap places on the high street to by specs any more ?
--
Go on, get out of the car...
www.mikes-walks.co.uk
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Had specs twice from ASDA just outside Brighton. Very good frames and lenses. Very reasonable. My daugher wears contacts and was looking for the cheapest pair of prescription specs she could get while an infection clears up. Got a pair for £35! from another ASDA.
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Many people I know who wear glasses tell me that our local Asda has both the finest eye testing service and range of lens/frames of all the local opticians.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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If it is just for reading specs Poundland did some that sit on the end of nose in a variety of colours - cannot get cheaper than that! While you are there they also do flourescent jackets.
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Next month i'm off to Rome for a few days and was wondering if you jolly bunch had any suggestions for things to do and places to stay.
I'm aware of all the ancient stuff there is to see and i'm also planning on watching some italian football but have you got any other suggestions?
Also where is the best place to find a hotel? there seem to be loads of different areas and i'm trying to find somewhere pretty convenient for half decent nightlife and not too far to be travelling each day.
Cheers
Kev
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Good Morning BH. Current wisdom seems to be that the price is obtained by approaching a hotel direct and asking what their best rate is. I have had success elsewhere by putting the name of the place I going to into www.viamichelin.com and then clicking on the link to "Find Hotel" and "Find Restaurant". I can't comment on what to do/see but you might find something in your local library, to borrow ,or invest in a current guide. It will do you well and if you aren't going back you can sell it on e bay! Enjoy your trip. For fast food may I recommend pizza from a woof fired oven? look for the magic words "Forno a legne"!
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"pizza from a woof fired oven"
wouldn't that be a hot dog?
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Phil
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PhilW - Brilliant! F is next to B on the keyboard so I have an excuse! Thanks for a good laugh!
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Stay central and the interesting bits of Rome are small enough to cover on foot. Or on the metro. Good thing about going out of season is that there are fewer tourists.
I think Trastevere is the place for reasonable prices and nightlife - or it was when I worked there a couple of years ago.
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I will let you know. Off to Roma next week (roma > firenza > venezia)
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Blue haddock I have not been to Rome, but I remembered a recent article in the Telegraph for first time visitors.
tinyurl.com/yzltgb
Feel sure this is worth the read, all 13 pages and links. Hope you enjoy your visit.
--
Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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I notice that TomTom GPS receivers and compatible mobile phones can be bought on Ebay. Is this a cheap route into Satnav, or have I forgotten something?
Is it legal(ish)? Would I need anything else?
Your advice appreciated as always.
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I've never opted to subscribe to Sky simply because the thought of putting money in Rupert Murdoch's pockets is anathema to me. However I'm also a big rugby fan and now that Sky Sports/Setanta have bought up the rights to all the Celtic League and Heineken Cup games, I'm a bit stuck. The nearest pub that would show games is 22 miles away (I live in the sticks) and to be able to watch games on a weekly basis would just be impractical. I even swallowed my pride and checked out the cost of subscribing to Sky, and getting Sky Sports included would be over £30 a month, which is a lot to me.
I heard of P2P TV and did a bit of searching on the internet. This is one of the options I've found:
www.watchskyfree.com/
However I'm not sure (a) whether it's legal, in spite of their disclaimer, (b) whether they actually provide access to Sky Sports (haven't got a reply from my query today), and (c) whether my broadband connection, which currently can't be upgraded due to our exchange, would be up to the job.
So, has anyone come across this before, or something like it which will allow me to watch live games via broadband? It's not the same listening to coverage on the radio ...
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andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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Its not legal. or at least, mostly not.
Two routes will work, both internet based.
1) Slingbox at a mates/relatives house
2) Orb.com and a computer at a mate/relative's house
- I'd recommend Orb.com, but either works.
You can try roc.tv, but I think its not much cop.
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Why not consider the free satellite stuff?
For a similar cost to a sky install you can get a receiver, motor and dish that lets you pick up stuff from 40+ satelites. then depending on what you want in the way of sports you can pick up a either the free feeds or a sub to ART or Al Jazera Sports.
Have a look at www.digitalspy.co.uk/forums/index.php as a general discussion site, www.alsat.co.uk forums (need to register) for info on how to get the best out of stuff.
kingofsat.net
liveonsat.com for sports broadcast info
We got it to get the french tv channels for the OH, but there is loads of stuff out there, albeit some is quite, ahhh, well lets just say that Mrs Whitehouse wouldnt have liked it.
there is real madrid tv, barca tv, lazio tv audi tv etc etc.
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Quick Q for you, o knowledgeable ones.
Daughter has just bought a house (Victorian terrace) and needs to turn off water. Stopcock is under floorboards in front room but the top (handle that you grip)has come off the top of the spindle (spigot?) and the shaft is rounded as if it has been turned using mole wrench. I have said that it needs replacing so that it is easy to use in future. Presumably this is a job for a plumber since tap is in house ----- or is it the water boards responsibility since (I presume) they would have to turn off the mains leading from street to the stopcock? Who does she call to get it done?
Thanks
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Phil
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Its her side of the mains stop cock so I'm afraid its her.
Mind you, its not a big job. I'd do it myself. Turning off the mains in the street is simply a matter of prising up the hinged cover and getting cold weet hands. It should be someone strongish though 'cos it can be a s od to turn. If it is really tough, turning on some taps in the house can make just enough difference.
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You might need a tool to turn off the mains stopcock in the street, it might be a long way down the access hole.
the tool is a long "t" handled thing with a square box spanner thi8ng in the bottom,
Most plumbers merchants stock them,
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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"Its her side of the mains stop cock so I'm afraid its her."
Thanks for confirming that FM. I thought as much.
Am going down to help her with various things tomorrow - no doubt this could crop up!
Could one get into trouble by turning off mains in street to replace the stopcock? Won't it affect other people's supply?
PS Stay off the fags - I tried to give up earlier in the year (small cigars not fags) and was doing quite well (even though spending a fortune on patches, gum and plastic inhaler things) but then decided that, when on holiday, one after evening meal would not do any harm. Bad mistake - one after dinner turned into one after lunch, then one after breakfast then one between breakfast and lunch.... you get the idea. Now got to start all over again. Trouble is, I actually enjoy smoking a little cigar (or 5, or 10). As you say, worst mistake is starting smoking - but then in the early '60s nobody saw much harm in it - even my doctor smoked!
--
Phil
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Can I hitch a ride?
My rising main stopcock weeps a little and sometimes I worry about it going bang and as it rises in my dining room (which is an extension to the house that used to be a barn) that would be less than ideal.
The house is half a mile off the road, my meter is a few hundred yards back towards the road in under a litle manhole - is that where I'd isolate the supply?
Thanks
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>>my meter is a few hundred yards back towards the road in under a litle manhole - is that where I'd isolate the supply?
Its the only reliable place, yes. However, I wouldn't be surprised, it being farm-ish, if there was another closer, but that would be unreliable.
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>Won't it affect other people's supply?
No. Is her supply metered ? The stop cock next to the meteris the safest place. However, if you're nervous when you've identified the cover hiding it, check you can find one the same outside everybody's house ?
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Yes the stopcock to isolate your house is outside your property and is owned by the water company.
Yes it may turn other houses off particularly if as you say it is in a terraced row unless there has been new mains put in at a later date when they may have put in individual supplies to each house.
But this isn?t usually the case as in many terraced rows there was one supply pipe taken off the main and often ran around the rear of the houses feeding each one in turn.
If it is still the original stopcock it will almost certainly be the type with a crutched handle which is similar to the stopcock inside the house.
The tool to use is a rod with the end shaped as a U.
Be very wary with this Phil. As a Plumber many years ago we sometimes used to snap the top off in trying to close them down and in those days the local council used to have responsibility for them. And many times as an apprentice used to have go to the Council yard and tell the foreman who was a madman what we had done.
He would go berserk when I told him before sending out a team to dig up the pavement. And often we had several houses without water until it was fixed.
You could give it a gentle turn to see if it will still move if you can get access to it as they are at least 3 feet down but if it is tight leave well alone and either ask the water board to free it off or get a plumber in to do the job.
If you do manage to isolate the water supply I would remove the head from the internal stopcock and replace. They are all the same thread.
It?s a simple job if you can isolate the supply but there is always a risk if the water boards stopcock is in poor condition.
Nsar, yes that will be the isolating valve. With having a meter it will be a modern type supply and will be sound. Have a look next to the meter and you will see some type of valve which will isolate your house. You should have no problems there.
I shouldn?t worry about it going bang, the leak is probably from the gland just below the handle and probably just needs a little nip up with a spanner.
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Thanks wemyss - I was typing a reply to FM2 and only saw your post afterwards. I will bear in mind what you say! - especially with regard to not forcing it! The stopcock, with a square end rather than crutched handle, is only about 6-9 inches below the little hatch and is at the front of house - each house has one -maybe the terrace is from a later date - 1920s perhaps? We have only seen it very briefly as we drove past.
I have printed out the various replies for reference!!
Thanks for your help
Regards
--
Phil
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No, not metered and she has found and lifted the external stopcock cover and it requires a T bar thing with the box spanner thing on the end as mentioned by TVM above. She has also checked with the water board and neighbours and they all have these external to the house. Luckily I have a friend who is a builder who I can borrow a T bar thing from. So it looks like I will become a plumber tomorrow!!
There are advantages and disadvantages to having a daughter buying a house 100 miles away!
Thanks for your help Mark, and also thanks TVM.
I will let you know if I cause a major flood!
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Phil
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>> > Trouble is, I actually enjoy smoking a little cigar (or 5, or 10). As you say, worst mistake is starting smoking - but then in the early '60s nobody saw much harm in it - even my doctor smoked! -- Phil
>>
A friend of mine, who used to enjoy a cigar after his evening meal died recently from cancer of the throat.
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Apart from putting duct tape around the dogs gob, giving it away, or me wearing ear plugs, can anyone help?
Its firework time again and we have two dogs. A westie and a yorkie-cross. The westie trembles at the sound of fireworks but the yorkie-cross dosent stop barking at the noise.
She doesnt like being sent to her bed so we've tried telling her 'bed' every time one goes off and she barks. It works for about 10 seconds or until the next one goes off.
She's only 2 so theres still plenty of training she can learn.
Can any one suggest how you train a dog to stop barking when a firework bangs?
Cheers for any help.
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Do not reinforce anxiety induced barking or whining by comforting the dog or talking to them in a soothing voice. Talk, pet or play with them only after they have been quiet for at least two seconds.
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yup PSI has it right.
There are two way to stop dogs doing things. One is cruel, so we wont go there.
reward the dog for being quiet, (cuddles, play, treats,) turn your back on it for noise (thats no eye contact, no soothing, no talking, nothing)
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Turning up the sound on the TV or radio can also help.
I'm no killjoy, but the sooner firework displays are only allowed as public events the better.
Apart from the effects they have on animals and many youngsters, setting off fireworks (at least in my area) is now virtually an all year round activity.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Hear hear. My Dad's dog has run away because of the amount of incredibly loud fireworks being set off until all hours where he lives. He's had her for 11 years and she's his constant companion for walks, trips etc. Highly intelligent animal, great guard dog, beautiful labrador/collie cross with a totally black coat. She's never run away before, but was absolutely terrified by all the noise. He let her out the door because he thought she needed to do her business but she just bolted and flew out the gate. Hasn't seen her since Saturday a week ago, and he doesn't hold out much hope now. He's totally gutted, being able to go walking with her in the hills was a big part of his retirement. If she doesn't turn up, we'll sort something out for Christmas, but I know it won't be the same.
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andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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Really sorry to hear about that Andy. I would be totally lost if one of my dogs went AWOL. All have been trained to the gun so fireworks don't mean much to them, we have a cocker as a family pet who had all the hallmarks of a superb gun dog when we had her but the guns scared her. I personally believe that the more intelligent a dog iis the more likely they are to be scared (which seems rational enough), the Springers are markedly less bright than the Cocker and quite honestly don't give a tinker's cuss about bangs. I honestly think that the Cocker can smell gunpowder in the air.......
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