***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 94 *****
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
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There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 93. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
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PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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I own my own domain, it is a .com. It costs me $19.95 a year. with a US company called NameZero. I've only had one problem with them, at renewal time last year, when payments were taken multiple times. It was easily resolved but involved long calls to the US.
I am only really interested in mail forwarding and maybe url redirection, but a small amount of web space would be useful.
Does anyone have any recommendations of a UK provider?
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This company is good value (lots of bandwidth for the money) and have excellent customer service. Based in Carlisle I think:
www.intechhosting.com
They offer a vast range of free tools for setting up websites of all kinds, from blogs to wikis, to online stores and so on.
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I use www.1and1.co.uk Good service and cheap. You can also transfer your domain name renewals to them.
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Careful with their hosting packages, plenty of evidence of poor quality.
If you have a VISA / MC card, then www.namecheap.com/ is not a bad place, offers whois protection which is very useful. Was free at the time , check in the corner for offers when its accessable. For some strange reason its unaccessable.
www.godaddy.com/ Also a good one but the whois data protection isnt avail I think.
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I agree with godaddy - seems quite good for the cheap price. they do data hidding but at a fee. I have a couple of domains with them and no probs so far. Just use them for mail/domain forwarding.
123reg.co.uk are part of pipex and cheapish if you want uk based hosting
also there are a few linux firms doing backup mail hosting and dns etc. Names escape me at the moment, but ask on any linux forum.
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Namecheap still do the WHOIS protection in the top right corner under offers, which is why it gets my vote. Seems to be working now too.
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Hi- I've just set up a cheap home wireless network (the bundled 3Com Modem/Router + USB adapter for £47 from eBuyer), and while I'm very pleased overall, there's one problem.
At the Windows XP (Pro) logon, instead of nice simple icons for each user which you just select to logon, I'm now presented with a user name and password dialog. Not a major issue, but I know that others in the family aren't going to like it.
Anyone know how to go back to the old pictorial non-network style logon, without getting rid of the network or booting up with the modem/router switched off?
(The PC in question is wired to the modem/router - I'm not sure yet if the wirelessly connected PC has the same issue.)
Cheers
John
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In control panel, select user accounts, and then select "change the way users log on and off". It should be there.
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In control panel, select user accounts, and then select "change the way users log on and off". It should be there.
Thanks- in fact I had gone there and got a prompt saying that NetWare (which I'd never heard of) had disabled these options, and that I needed to uninstall the NetWare client. I did this, re-enabled the welcome (ie. icon-based) screen, and was about to re-post.
Not sure yet what I've broken by uninstalling NetWare...
Cheers
John
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The login screen cant work whilst connected to a domain (i.e. a network with facilities) hence why it disables it. If you need to access a netware based network then you'll need to enable it again, otherwise should be fine.
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If you need to access a netware based network then you'll need to enable it again, otherwise should be fine.
I was worried that I needed NetWare to communicate with the modem/router, not knowing too much about these things, but it looks like I don't. Thanks for the reassurance.
John
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No you dont need netware. Really not sure how you got it on there unless you ticked "everything" for services
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I unplugged the monitor of my old Dan desktop and plugged it into my new Dell notebook. I didn't work. That does not matter, but I plugged it back into the desktop - and now it won't work there either! All I get with the computer switched on is a "No signal input" message so the keyboard can't be used. All connections are sound. Can anyone kindly suggest a solution please?
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Might be a little too obvious but do check that you've not somehow moved the graphics card on your desktop. I take it, its dead as a dodo even when desktop restarted? You might want to look around carefully for missing pins. Although wasnt Dan around in 96?
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I can't see the desktop as the screen won't work. The pins are all present. Yes, it is an old machine (1999) and worth little - except for the files I was transferring and now can't get at!
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I think smokescreen meant that disconnecting your monitor cable from the desktop disturbed the seating of the graphics card.
Other than that it could be the cable has developed a fault. Not uncommon if pulled in and out fairly regularly.
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Your posting worried me, Smokescreen, so I had a further look, with a stronger pair of glasses. Sure enough, there was indeed a pin missing: bad news, since the plug is moulded and the other end is fixed permanently to the monitor (not plugged in). However, a sawn-off pin from my wife's sewing basket did the trick... It is good to know that complex tecnology can yield to a spot of DIY!
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Nicely done :-) Some modern stuff comes with detachable cables. You'll also be glad to know that CRT monitors are dirt cheap on ebay or locally, and even TFT flat screens are under £100 brand new should it really smoke up.
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>>Some modern stuff comes with detachable cables>>
I've had three or four CRT monitors over many years - only reason to change was larger screen size - and they have always had a detachable cable.
There are TFTs available at under £100 but generally 15in.
TFTs are very nice (I often use an 18in TFT when updating an elderly friend's Mesh system), but I still don't think you can beat the display quality of a good CRT monitor.
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im sticking to my crt as well, in my opinion the display has more depth and is easier on the eyes.
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>>im sticking to my crt as well>>
One of my offspring recently bought a 19in TFT and gave me one of his 21in CRT monitors (he uses a couple at any one time).
Great display.
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There are TFTs available at under £100 but generally 15in.
Aria are doing 17" brand new tft's for just under £100 inc vat now. I much prefer the sharpness of a TFT over even a good crt.
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{Takes off hat}
Good work sir. Shouldn't have worried about blowing you up, what with the old pins in the socket trick!! ;-)
Should you decide to replace it, or your wife needs the pin back, CRTs are for free these days, any decent sized computer fair will have them stacked up for pennies....
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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"No signal input" message
Where does that appear then? or is it a series of bleep codes?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Thats usually something the monitor says, on its screen. If i switch the D-Sub mode on my dell tft it'll say the same, and so have other older monitors.
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ah right - yes in the screen when not plugged in
bin a long day
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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>>Thats usually something the monitor says, on its screen>>
The message will come up (or should) if the monitor is switched on before the computer system.
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If you're comfortable with it, unplug the PC and take the top off to check the video card is correctly seated as suggested.
If you can check with another monitor on the same PC, do so and see if it really is giving out a signal - be sure to plug the monitor in then power up the computer.
If you get anything computery on it (BIOS, etc) hit F8 during early boot and select VGA mode.
You might be unlucky and find the monitor is shabbered but the 'no signal' thing would point to a loose connection at the PC or monitor, PC not switched on(!) or running a weird resolution (VGA thing should address this).
That said, it's late and I may well be missing something as obvious as the nose on my face....
Good luck!
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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Just to be clear, unplug the computer from the mains in the first suggestion.
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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Better to leave the mains plug in and the power off. At least the system will be earthed and thus avoid any possible risk of static damaging components (touch the case first to disperse any static before checking the card).
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You may be right Stuart - just didn't want to fry anyone in the backroom, have seen enough blue flashes and junior technicians with their hair standing on end to harp on about safety!
Cheers
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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As you all know by now, I am computer illiterate so go easy on me!
My computer has a 1394A Card Firewire 400PCI installed on it and I want to connect my Canon MV450 DV Camcorder up to it.
What sort of cable should I be looking for? The firewire looks like it requires a fitting a bit squarer than a USB cable. The camcorder looks like it needs a small, almost square fitting but with an indent down one side. Also looks like there is 4 pins inside it.
Finally, the software supplies is Video Studio 9 - is it user friendly?
As always, any help much appreciated.
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Is this what I need?
tinyurl.com/s2vm3
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Is this what I need? tinyurl.com/s2vm3
Yes that looks correct, most DV cams come with mini-firewire.
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You got that for a good price bobbyG, but you paid way too much for the bulbs and the Laptop memory
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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TVM, the beauty of ebay!!!
Any experience of Video Studio?
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Used it once and it bombed out on me - Not keen, Microsoft movie maker was just as good really in some ways better.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Recently a small box has been appearing on my screen at boot-up.
What I assume is its big brother has now appeared full page, at the bottom there is a user name, which doesn't mean any thing to me. The file name is C:/winnt/system32/kid/devcheck2.exe
Does it mean anything? Should I worry or what?
As always, your advice would be appreciated.
Don drbe
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That'll be this trojan. Troj/Zapchas-AS www.sophos.com/virusinfo/analyses/trojzapchasas.ht...l
"Troj/Zapchas-AS is a backdoor Trojan which allows a remote intruder to gain access and control over the computer.
Troj/Zapchas-AS includes functionality to access the internet and communicate with a remote server via HTTP. "
You should be able to clean it using the process here. www.sophos.com/support/disinfection/trojan.html
Have you got an up to date virus checker and also Windows Defender (assuming you are on XP)?
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Thanks smokie. I have Norton Internet Security. Yesterday I ran a virus scan, which revealed 1 virus and could not remove it. I didn't check to see the name of the virus.
This morning I ran the virus scan again, it showed 1 virus, which could not be removed.
The virus filename is lpscan.exe (I'm not sure if the first character is an i or an l)
The threat name is Hacktool.
What is Windows Defender?
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Re ipscan.exe:
www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/hacktool.angry...l
Windows Defender:
www.microsoft.com/athome/security/spyware/software...x
Free download from the Microsoft website.
I'm still using Microsoft AntiSpyware.
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A quick update.
Norton Internet security can detect the virus, but cannot delete it or quarantine it.
Sophos cannot detect it.
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Try downloading the free trial version of Ewido at:
www.ewido.net/en/download/
Check for updates and then run a scan in Safe Mode.
It will/should remove viruses and Trojans.
However, it could just be a file that checks IP addresses on a network, although better safe than sorry.
This is a link which provides ipscan.exe for downloading, which may be of interest regarding your query:
www.angryziber.com/ipscan/
And another:
www.zone-h.org/en/download/category=28/ (half way down)
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I have never had AOL installed on any of my machines, However my desktop daily rus a program named AOL SP Scheduler. I haven't installed it. I can't "find" it anywhere on the hard disc. I want to remove it. Help please.
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There will be 3 locations on first thought this will be located :
-Scheduled tasks, within control panel. Delete entry here.
-Windows Services - Goto Start, select run, and type in msconfig. There is a tab called services, have a look under there for it.
-Windows startup registry entry. Follow the above, but pick startup instead.
If its not there, drop another message.
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Thanks Smokescreen found it in Windows Startup registry. Now disabled.
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found it in Windows Startup registry. Now disabled.
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the question you should be asking yourself is how did it get on your pc in the first place. it is there for a reason:
"AOL Spyware Protection service allows you to quickly scan your computer for potential spyware, and to help block the spyware you do not want on your computer.
You have the ability to schedule automatic spyware scans, the
option of allowing specific applications flagged as spyware to run, and to always block selected spyware."
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I don't know I can only guess that it was pre-loaded by the makers - don't you hate their presumption - I believe that Spybot is a better product.
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After much amateur trial and error I have successfully got AOL Broadband up and running with Netgear's DG834PN 'MIMO' (top of the range) router. Is this a first? because AOL earlier advised me that as far as they are concerned this router is Unsupported by AOL (I assume this would mean 'yet').
Regarding modem settings AOL did say that the MTU (Maximum Transmission Unit) should be set at (i.e. reduced to) 1400, but I couldn't find where to do this, so I didn't. So the system's up and running - the question is, whether it could be better.
A key issue now is security which I know has been discussed in this forum before, but maybe not in relation to this specific router.
The status quo is that I can detect the ID of my neighbour's router! which I don't wish to know, nor do I wish him to know mine. I believe this can be blocked. Netgear offer lots of options for security, and I would just like to know what's best without making a rod for my own back.
Oz (as was)
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this router is Unsupported by AOL
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standard practice of most isps' is to support only the modem that they issued/sold to you.
MTU ... 1400, but I couldn't find where to do this
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it is in the wan settings. but if your router is working, change this if/when you have a problem. see
kbserver.netgear.com/kb_web_files/n100603.asp
forums.vnunet.com/thread.jsp?forum=2&thread=27482
blogs.guardian.co.uk/askjack/2005/11/wifi_with_aol...l
options for security, ... what's best
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follow the advice at
www.getsafeonline.org/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=1151
and you should be ok.
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Well
to secure your router you enable WEP. Instructions will be in your manual. Also to hide the fact you have one you turn off wirless broadcast.
Dont bother with MTU settings, only of benefit for modem type stuff.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Well to secure your router you enable WEP. Instructions will be in your manual. Also to hide the fact you have one you turn off wirless broadcast. Dont bother with MTU settings, only of benefit for modem type stuff. ------------------------------ TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Firstly you wont need to mess with the MTU, BT fixed that issue a while ago so 1500 MTU default is fine.
However, the router should support WPA and maybe WPA2. However most rotuers at the moment dont support it.
Just use a long dictionary word free password and your fine.
Whatever you do, avoid WEP.
There are tools that are easily available to which listen out and when it has enough information, crack your WEP key in a few minutes. Worst of all, you can even get live CDs that boot on your laptop, and run this all automatically!
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And by most routers, I mean most dont support WPA2 yet. WPA should be widely supported.
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I hardly think his next door neighbour is running credit card scams and looking for zombie machines. Wep is fine for home users and much more practical and less prone to locking you out. We aint talking CIA HQ here.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Usually I'd agree but as mention with tools so easily available, and WPA being just as easy to enable you might as well.
I could link to one now that would show you how to hack these networks and within 10mins there's a good chance you could use it yourself!
I havent had lockout issues myself either, although I've only configured about 20 wifi networks by now.
WPA is far more difficult to crack with long random passwords - brute force has to be used.
Lockouts in my experience are caused more by leaving the MAC filter active and forgetting to update an entry.
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I am 4 up on you then.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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guys - why not keep it simple and let oz follow the excellent advice at the "plain english" website
www.getsafeonline.org/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=1151
it is all there, to quote:
How to protect a wireless network
Although the Wi-Fi standard defines things like encryption and access control, the way you set them up varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. This means that the advice will seem a little technical because it is only possible to say what you have to do, not how you do it. Consequently, you will need to refer to the documentation that came with your hardware to set these defences up.
Use encryption. WPA2 is the best but is generally only available on the latest hardware. WPA-PSK is the next best and is available on most hardware. Failing either of these, for example if you are using older access points and network cards, use WEP.
Use access points only rather than ad-hoc, peer-to-peer networks. Access points give more control.
Make sure that every computer on the network has a desktop firewall (see Use a firewall).
Use public access points with care (see Use public computers carefully).
Switch off SSID broadcast. The SSID is the name of the wireless network.
Choose an obscure SSID name. With SSID broadcast switched off, an obscure SSID will make it harder for a hacker to guess.
Use a strong password to access the wireless access point (see Use strong passwords).
If your access point allows it, restrict wireless access to the hours that you are likely to use it.
Use MAC filtering. Each network card has a unique code called a MAC address. You can set access points to restrict access to certain, trusted MAC addresses. This will restrict people?s ability to freeload.
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Handy website on the subject of networking:
www.windowsnetworking.com/
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Many thanks to one and all for the excellent advice and comments.
Oz (as was)
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I've had problems for some time with Firefox being slow at loading pages, and not loading images completely on pages some of the time. It has been a real PITA.
I've downloaded IE 7 Beta 2 yesterday and it has reminded me just how fast my internet connection really is. It has tabbed browsing (tho not as powerful as Firefox), and so far I would recommend it if you are having Firefox problems ( - I know from other forums that I'm not alone with issues with it). The only issue I have seen so far is it is very slow when first loading.
Go to www.microsoft.com and there is a link from the home page.
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Firefox pages are up in a flash for me and not loading pages properly has never been an issue.
Why not try:
fasterfox.mozdev.org/
or FineTune Firefox (which I use as it saves a lot of manual configuration in about:config):
www.totalidea.com/ft-up.htm
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I want to clear my hard disk before disposing of my old computer. Do I reformat it before using Darik's Boot & Nuke (or similar program)or shred first then reformat please?
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just run boot and nuke. You dont have to do anything else.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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If you are chucking the thing away then punch a nail through it a few times...
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I'll have to wreck it, as Boot and Nuke won't download
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You don't HAVE to wreck it.
Reformatting it will get rid of any hidden files and save you a lot of deleting. Then use the process described here.
OK, so the files are still there and they now need writing over.
If you can use DOS and a BAT file, on that disk, you can write a simple program to do the write over. Let the BAT file be called, say, Kill.bat.
Here is a simple version of Kill.bat. . . The syntax is not true BAT coded and so you will need to clean it up but it shows how to do it.
This is what is inside Kill.bat:-
Copy kill.bat xx1
:Ref1
copy xx1 xx2
copy xx1 plus xx2 to xx3 ( -- this is not proper BAT syntax no 'plus' or 'to')
Delete xx1
Delete xx2
Rename xx3 to be xx1 ( -- this is not proper BAT syntax)
goto Ref1
END
The program will bomb out when the disk space runs out. You might think that, because the last write is likely to be too large for the space left, it will not write over some of the disk but I found it did not bomb out until it found there was no space left to write on.
You will be left with some whopping size xx? files that you just delete.
Del xx*.*
You can also run it several times if you want to.
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It all depends on how well you wish to conceal what was on the disc! Rewriting (overwriting) as above will prevent a casual technically literate person from from reading what was previously written. Thus safeguarding your credit card details etc. However if your motives are more serious I believe that forensic techniques can be applied which can still recover what was originally previously written by close examination of the magnetic characteristics of the magnetic material. This is obviously easier if the disc surface is intact.
Hence the only true way to to destroy it is by mechinical means. An angle grinder will prove effective if the remaining parts are small enough to render reassembly so time consuming that it is impracticable. When you think of the density of information recorded it is possible that recovery of incriminating information could be achieved from a very small physical piece of disc surface!
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pmh (was peter)
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>>it is possible that recovery of incriminating information could be achieved from a very small physical piece of disc surface!>>
But who on earth could be bothered?
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Security services the world over!
You can be sure that what can be achieved goes far beyond what you can read about.
However this maybe a non physically destructive solution.
www.vogon-international.com/forensic-bulletin/volu...m
Perhaps Gary Glitter wished he had had access to one of these.
other interesting reading from
www.nccmembership.co.uk/pooled/articles/BF_WEBART/...6
a quoted section
"This aspect of computer forensics the recovery of deleted files is perhaps the most well-known part of the discipline. In high-profile paedophile cases such as that of Gary Glitter, for example files and website access records that had been deleted were recovered and analysed by the prosecution, so as to show precisely what the computer user had been doing. In other cases, as varied as a murder in which planning was performed using e-mail communications, through stalking, to fraud and hacking abuses, the science of recovering deleted files has proved immensely valuable to the prosecution in being able to present precisely what has taken place. Tools such as Encase achieve this by taking a precis....."
A quick Google will find even more interesting stuff.
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pmh (was peter)
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Security services the world over!>>
But only with regard to a tiny minority of the world's population - I'm not a Gary Glitter or similar and much of the information on my HDD is of little interest to anyone else.
So long as details such as CC numbers, bank statements etc are erased (perhaps doing suitable erasure measures two or three times), what was left wouldn't be of much advantage to anyone else...:-)
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Stuart
But you were not the original poster!
Just trying to give best advice to the question!
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pmh (was peter)
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pmh
As answers are usually appended to a posting to which they refer, naturally I thought you were addressing me...:-)
No harm done.
Just watch what you download...:-)))
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such as that of Gary Glitter, for example files and website access records that had been deleted were recovered and analysed by the prosecution
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strange how these myths get spread. in hte above case, the files had not been deleted & recovered by forensics, but were found in a cache directory by the "humble" (humble because they work for a high street chain not usually given credit for its technians abilities) but "curious" technicians having a nose around the stored docuemnts.
www.hamiltons-solicitors.co.uk/archive-docs/cache....m
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Both posted links can be true. Originally the images were discovered by 'accident' by PCWorld. I do not doubt that subsequent police forensic investigation was used to determine the extent of use of the computer and trace any deleted files or links.
The solictors article does raise the usual interesting questions about possession. Any of us have probably got images downloaded by accident or maliciously from a 3rd party site that have not necessarily been viewed or 'actively' saved.
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pmh (was peter)
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Just put the thing in my sons PC. The data will be trashed and utterly lost in about 5 minutes.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Is there any way to identify a domain name from an IP address. Someone has filed in an on-line survey I'm running and I'm intrigued by one of the responses.
I don't need an email address, just domain.
I've tried dnsstuff.com, but no joy there
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Try
swhois.net/
or
www.urgentclick.com/address_trace.php
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www.dnsstuff.com
To quote Nsar "I've tried dnsstuff.com, but no joy there"
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What with ? - it has most of the stuff needed most of the time. What didnt it do/say ?
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Nsar, you dont think I would make those comments without spoofing my ip addy do you?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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You're talking to an IT numpty here, so I simply have no idea what you've just written!
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Dont give me that old trumpet. You know what a domain name and ip address is.......
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I've finally taken the plunge and signed up for BT Broadband for home. I've also bought a Belkin Wireless Router, and a Wireless Ready Laptop so I can roam the house.
I have been told that the easiest way to set it all up is to wait for the BT broadband router to arrive and set this up on my other (desktop) computer. Once done, disconnect the BT router and plug in and install the Wireless Router, at which point, the laptop should spring to life and detect the connection.
Is this as easy as it sounds? Or do I need to know anything else?
Also, easy is it to make this 'network' secure?
Many thanks in advance of advice.
--
let me be the last to let you down....
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well the chances are BT will send you a MODEM not a router.
What Belkin device have you bought?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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TVM is right, BT usually send modems - only worth opeinng the box for the filter.
And what 'wireless ready' laptop? Which standards does it support?
803.11a/b/g/n ?
Is it a centrino ? or is it using a pcmcia card ?
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According to the paperwork, Bt will send a 'BT Voyager 210 modem/router'.
The router I have bought is a Belkin ADSL Wireless High Speed Mode G Router. Working to 802.11g standard.
The laptop is a Gateway MX3220B Notebook with a 802.11g wireless card and built in ethernet.
Hope this helps
--
let me be the last to let you down....
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Is this as easy as it sounds? .... make this 'network' secure?
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1. it should be simple in most cases. try it out with both the bt and belkin modem/routers, and if you do have problems, come back.
2. security - see the replies to "oz" above regarding his aol-netgear wireless setup.
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BT does offer wireless modem/routers. See:
tinyurl.com/ab83z
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Wont need it. The router should have a port labelled "WAN" on the back, and BT send out modems with both USB and Ethernet (network) capability.
Plug modem's ethernet (network) cable into router's WAN port and it should already be configured to pick up an IP address. If not, RTFM on the part of setting up a 'dsl connection' using something called DHCP.
However, you may want to look into the mode about giving a certain IP address DMZ privileges. This means all data from internet comes to the router, and the router then sorts it out, rather than the modem filtering. If you want more details on this , leave a message as it can save a lot of hassle in the long run.
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Looks like BT are supplying a wireless modem/router so you dont actually need the Belkin router, perhaps you could get your money back. You can connect the BT router to your desktop PC via ethernet or USB and the laptop will connect wirelesly.
I dont know the Voyager 210 though it will certainly do the job, the Belkin will perhaps offer enhanced functionality though you will probably not need it.
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Lordy,
I replaced my BT modem with a wireless router (Netgear) and I can't imagine why you would go to the (admittedly minor) trouble of setting up one router just to disconnect it, put it back in the box and then set up a second.
Plug your Belkin kit in straight away. It will detect the settings and make an Internet connection. Connect to it via cable to prove the Internet conection is ok. You'll probably need a cable connection anyway for some of the initial settings, especially when you're setting up the wireless security.
Watch out for different terminology for the same thing (bah humbug!) from Belkin and your laptop maker. Persevere, it won't take long and then wander off down the garden to see how far away you can get and still have the connection work. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
Oh, and upgrade the laptop driver straight away, you may find a significant improvement in reliability and speed.
JH
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Hi all,
A friend wants to track their customers details, service calls, enquiries and when warranties expire on the equipment they sell.
Does anyone know of some decent software that will do this cheaply?
Thanks
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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A simple rails application using scaffold functions to build this? I had to do something similar for small uni project lately and even used Ajax!
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>>A simple rails application using scaffold functions to build this? I had to do something similar for small uni project lately and even used Ajax!
Really don't want to write it myself and it'll live on a single <£500 Dell PC so not sure they're ready for server side apps yet!
Lee -- There\'s no place like 127.0.0.1
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Instant rails can run on a single system no problem, including the server side app. Infact, if you want to email tdas444 at gmail dot com with the sort of things they need, I could knock something up as it sounds pretty simple.
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>>Does anyone know of some decent software that will do this cheaply?
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how about this:
www.customerservicepoint.com/free-crm-software.html
www.freecrm.com/
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