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Understand there are pensions orientated savings policies, where if I put in payments, the government/taxman puts in contributions as well.
Can anyone please advise if there is a name for this type of policy?
Thank you, Pete.
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Pension ?
are you thinking of the sipp sort of thing ?
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pete l : do you mean stakeholder pension?
" .. may want to think about a stakeholder
pension. Even if you are not earning, the
Government will pay £22 for every £78 you
pay into your pension, up to a combined
maximum of £3,600 in 2005/06. ..."
www.thepensionservice.gov.uk/pdf/pm/pm8nov05.pdf
www.stakeholderpensions.gov.uk/
www.hmrc.gov.uk/stakepension/#a
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That seem to fit the bill. Thank you all for the replies.
Rgds, Pete.
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If you're already in an occupational pension scheme it would be well worth checking out whether you can pay AVCs into it. The rate of return on AVCs paid into my occupational pension scheme beat anything I could find anywhere else by a mile.
--
L\'escargot.
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If you're already in an occupational pension scheme it would be well worth checking out whether you can pay AVCs into it. The rate of return on AVCs paid into my occupational pension scheme beat anything I could find anywhere else by a mile ...........
......and if you're not already in your employer's scheme then, as a general rule, you ought to join pronto.
--
L\'escargot.
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Goto www.hargreaveslandsdown.co.uk and look at the different type of investments. Whilst pension investments take all shapes and sizes remember that you can not do a pull down until you are 65, or the penalties and the recovery of tax is expensive. Your age is also important and can effect how you should invest. You should talk to a true IFA but only after doing your homework and understanding the option, penalties and risks. The web site was some good stuff on it and some calculators which help. Regards Peter
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Smug from Southport (;)) gets his access to 192.com for free. How?
I can't see any more of those foolish offers I used to be able to sign adam up to (because I know his email address).
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Smug from Southport (;)) gets his access to 192.com for free. How?>>
Hardly...:-)
I've been using the 192.com website for at least five years - I just log on, obtain whatever phone number, private or business address I require and then log off.
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gets his access to 192.com for free. How?
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i asked the same question, and did not get anywhere.
i too just cannot see how you can access the details on 192.com for free. am i being thick here?
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>>i asked the same question, and did not get anywhere.>>
I did post a reply but apparently it was deleted in error.
As I said I've been a 192.com user for a long time - perhaps that has some connection with the fact I use it as required?
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>>I can't see any more of those foolish offers I used to be able to sign adam up to (because I know his email address).<<
So that's where they're coming from.
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If someone appeared on the electoral roll section of that website which Adam posted, could you assume that they were still alive (to within a few months obviously)?
What I mean is, would the electoral roll be updated with deaths?
And yes, it's a weird question, but a long story...
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BazzaBear. The electoral roll is put together by the council based on information collected from householders. Each year (iirc in the Autumn) a form is sent out to every dwelling in the country. The householder completes the form stating who lives there - including the names of all those over 16/17, and indicating those of retirement age.
This information is collected for the purposes of knowing to whom to send polling cards entitling voting in elections - they collect this information in advance of 18th Birthdays. It is also used to select people for jury service which is why those of retirement age have to indicate this.
Any information the Council holds, therefore, is a result of the householder's putting it on the form.
Dead people are unable to notify the council to take themselves off - and I doubt anybody would bother (I'm not even certain there is a procedure for removal from the roll).
So that begs the question 'how long does an entry on the roll remain?' My experience is that it varies from Council to Council. Cambridge City seem to leave you on the list for two years after they have last been notified of your existence. Whether this is so as not to disenfranchise students who are likely to move around and forget to fill in their forms I do not know. (With students traditionally left of centre and a labour controlled City Council I should not be surprised.) Southwark appear to remove your name if you have nto filled the form in.
So presence on the electoral roll is certainly evidence of recent life. I suggest you go onto Adam's site, find the address, look up the neighbours and look up the neighbours' telephone numbers and give them a call and ask.
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Helicopter jr is moving out of the room he has been renting in a house in London to another one closer to work and has a dispute with the landlord over the return of his deposit of £550.He has a contract with the amount of deposit on it but he paid in cash originally.
His landlord also lives in the house and I believe is the son of the owners.
Claims have been made by the landlord of damage which are completely unfounded and outstanding bills which have to be paid from the deposit etc.
I am convinced that the landlord is trying it on and he actually advised that he is running an overdraft etc..
The landlord also does not know it but I took photographic evidence of the state of the place when jr moved in so I should be able to refute any spurious claims..I just had my suspicions about him and thought that this situation might arise.
I am meeting with jr tonight at the house to collect his gear and talk to the landlord if possible but can any of the legal eagles give me chapter and verse on jr's position legally please.
Is he entitled to his money in cash tonight - I am convinced that a cheque would bounce.
Would jr be able to take small claim court action if the deposit is not repaid.
Is the landlord entitled to withold repayment of deposit for 30 days ?
Any advice appreciated.
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This is a very common practice.
I suggest you visit www.landlordzone.co.uk/ which has plenty of advice re deposit disputes.
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Not a lawyer but a renter for over a decade until 1999 and a former housing benefit adviser.
Returnable deposits are just that (make sure it's a proper deposit and not the first/final month's rent in advance), but many landlords think they are an income stream. If you have evidence that no damage has occurred (normal wear and tear doesn't count as far as I know) then let him know. Ask for specific examples of damage and be prepared to compromise on the ones that are too hard to prove (you can argue the toss over the price though). I reckon he'll negotiate, especially since you know where he lives. One way you might get round it if he's broke is by persuading him to let you off the last month's rent.
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Thanks for the advice - I had a look at landlordzone and the situation given by one of their advisors on the forums as to the legal position on deposits appears quite clear
'the deposit is owned by the tenant but held by the landlord/agent as a surety against damage and, if in the tenancy agreement, loss of rent. Money for remedial work can only be taken out when the tenant leaves and if the landlord can show that the work has been necessitated by the tenant and not simply normal wear and tear. There would also need to be an inventory so that the landlord can demonstrate that any damage was caused by the tenant.'
Baskerville - unfortunately junior has already paid his last months rent.
I too am hopeful of negotiation and will of course be reasonable about bills outstanding being deducted but the landlord is saying he wants more money for outstanding bills before he will release the deposit.
As jr has paid his final months rent and is now owed the deposit back I have told him not to hand over any more money.
I would still like to know the correct legal answers to the questions I asked above before facing the landlord tonight..
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You have very few obvious legal rights (apart from a right to get the deposit back less appropriate deductions, but achieving that can be very difficult) & very little redress. Apply common sense.
1. Do not pay him any extra money - that is the 419 Advance Fee Nigerian fraud. The deposit is THERE to cover things like outstanding bills.
2. Ascertain what the likely deductions are. Read the gas meter, ring the telephone company etc.
3. You can pursue him in the small claims court. Cost you £50 and a day off work. And then you'll probably have to take him back to court to enforce payment. Get a bouncing cheque at least from him - it will help when you reach court.
4. Turn up when he normally collects rent in cash & demand some. Does H jnr play rugger? & if so does he have some friends?
5. Write all over the house 'this landlord doesn't pay your deposit back'. Repairing the damage will cost what's left of the deposit so at least he won't win - or you could smash up the dining table in front of him.
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Oh yes, and check the rental agreement to see if it states when the deposit should be returned.
Have a read of this to avoid trouble for next time...
www.students-union.nottingham.ac.uk/welfare/welfar...p
snipurl.com/pr2l {Link to www.adviceguide.org.uk)
www.sheltercymru.org.uk/images/HOLDINGOUT.PDF
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Mapmaker -
Landlord is not getting any more money full stop.
Much as I would like to pursue some of your more violent suggestions I will try negotiation first.
I have a small dictaphone in my PDA and will record all conversations with him tonight secretly.
If negotiation fails I will get jr to take the legal road to the Small Claims Court in the first instance.I have no doubt at all he will win.
I am not intimidated by anyone and can be very intimidating myself and Jr is quite capable of handling himself -
I will also just advise him that I also have some very good friends who I can call upon if necessary, Glaswegians who are employed as bailiffs.
These are guys with that just so intimidating air of quiet menace backed up by martial arts black belts- pussycats normally but they don't like their friends being taken for a ride ...
They are the last resort as I don't like the sight of blood....
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My children both had this problem at university.
Surely the legal position is not in doubt - it is a refundable deposit provided there are no damages or unpaid bills.
As said above, it is difficult to prove or disprove any damage claims, and landlords are notorious for taking advantage of this situation.
Start preparing a claim for the small claims court now.
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Wouldn't it be better to record the meeting openly?
It might make them think twice before repeating spurious accusations of damage.
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Just to advise that I managed to move my sons gear last night
My son checked yesterday with a previous tenant of the house who had problems with getting his deposit returned, was sent a bouncing cheque, was threatened and had to threaten court action but he finally managed to get his money back.The previous tenant was still fearful of the landlord.
I had a long discussion with the landlord.He was a bit surprised as I turned up unannounced and treated him in a friendly manner but made it clear that I was aware of the law on deposits and was not going to be browbeaten.
He said that there were some outstanding utility bills which we agreed would be a minimum of £80 but may be more.He advised that he would send the deposit back with itemised bills in 21 days .
I advised that the law was 14 days and showed him a download about this from the internet and requested that he comply with this as my son was short of money as he had to put deposit and rent on another room and he agreed to this.
After we had cleared the room I got him to sign a statement confirming that the keys had been returned , that the inventory had been checked and there was no damage to the room that was not already there.
Although he pointed out damage to a drawer , when he was advised that I had photographs of the room when son moved in showing that the drawer was already damaged he backed off, he also backed down on a claim of damage to a communal room coffee table.
I also included in the statement about our agreement regarding the deposit return subject to deduction of agreed bills within 14 days and he took the attitude that I was insulting him by asking him to sign this and started to be agressive saying it was already in the contact about this and if he did not comply I could take him to court.
I advised that the reason for asking him to sign was purely in my sons interest to record the 14 day rather than 21 day timescale and he then agreed and signed.
This signed statement puts us in a strong position if it does go to court and I now wait to see what happens in two weeks time.
Thanks for all the advice.
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My children both had this problem at university.
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My son & his mates have just had the same problem
As said above, it is difficult to prove or disprove any damage claims, and landlords are notorious for taking advantage of this situation.
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Sons landloard claimed all sorts of rediculous things needed fixing /replacing.
My advice for any rental property is to spend half a hour videoing everything prior to starting rental and then video everything prior to departure.
This should include lots of close-ups.
Start preparing a claim for the small claims court now.
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But
The advice my son got was to go to the arbitration service FIRST.
This I believe is run by the landloards organisation or something similar.
If you do not then the small claims court will look on you as not trying hard enough to resolve things before resorting them for redress and maybe some bias will creep in.
My son will not discuss the final outcome so I feel sure he finished up well stuffed.
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Nanny state alert.
A house, in Scotland, has been empty for some time, and has, in the delightful terminology of Scottish Hydro-Electric been 'de-energised' (its electricity has been cut off in old-speak).
Because it has been 'de-energised' for over six months, SH-E require an electrical safety certificate before they will 're-energise' the property. (They also need a copy of the land registry entry too...)
On requesting further details of the required certification, the delightful & helpful girl said that 'any electrician' could do it. On being pressed further as to what qualification the electrician required in order to sign this off, she said 'any electrician could do it, they're all trained to do it, they have a special machine they use to do it, they don't need a qualification.'
(On being asked why it needed to be done, she pointed out that the sockets hadn't been used for over six months so had to be checked. LOL.)
Can this be right? If so, where does one download blank forms? Or can they be bought from an electrician's merchant?
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Sounds like a standard "covering their backs" clause for Health and Safety purposes.
However, some time ago a client of ours bought a pub that had been unoccupied for about a year. He was told that the old wiring had been affected by damp (due to the place not being heated), so the resistance in the cables had become unsatisfactory, and he had to have part or all of it re-wired. The place was in quite a state and was so damp it needed to be re-plastered too.
I would have thought the electrician would need to be NIC-EIC approved or have some other form of accreditation for the certificate to be acceptable? (But I dont know I'm not an electrician.)
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BUMP? Not that it bumps, but somebody must know...
(because of damp the resistance IN the cables had become unsatisfactory...???)
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the quality of the insulation of the cables has deteriorated ?
There seems to be a lot of uncertainty misinformation and excessive caution in England since building regs part P. But I thought that Scotland had its own building regs?
In the end if they are the supplier and require certain checks before they connect then I guess they can unilaterally demand that. I would ask on askthetrades, screwfix or diynot or similar and see what electricians say. Or pop into a local electical factors and ask them (or any other customer thats in at the same time)
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Great, thanks. The screwfix forum looks excellent with responses to half-witted questions like 'You're clearly going to end up killimg yourself [trying to wire that up in that fashion], so to pre-empt this, use the wire you have and tie one end to the roof truss. Wrap the other end around your neck and jump through the loft hatch. It should be a clean break, as oposed to an agonising slow burn.'
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(because of damp the resistance IN the cables had become unsatisfactory...???)
Yes sorry thats what I meant, insulation in the cable sheathing was shot! Dont know whether he was having his leg lifted or not!? The re-wire may have been more to do with it being an old pub with Heath-Robinson wiring, but the reason he told us was the damp.
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Mapmaker
Cannot be absolutely sure if it's the same in Scootland, but in England and Wales the "delightful and helpful girl" would be quite INcorrect
To be qualified to issue a Periodic Inspection Certificate an electrician must be qualified to City and Guilds 2391, Inspection & Testing of Electrical Installations
NOT ALL electricians will have this qualification and it's quite independant of the requirements of Part P
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How do I deter collared doves from sitting on a hanging basket bracket that we have mounted just under the eaves? (It's a bungalow, just in case you're wondering!) Their cooing is getting on our respective wicks. And please don't suggest that I remove the bracket!
--
L\'escargot.
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Bird Spikes
www.pestcontrolshop.co.uk/acatalog/bird_spikes_3.h...l
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I would suggest using some wire. Take lengths of about 15 inches and then twist the centre around the bracket and leave the ends pointing upward at an angle. This should deter the birds from landing.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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Just put a big dollop of grease on the bracket, works a treat.
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.22 Air rifle - no licence required but you must be over iirc 16 these days. Supper as well. Check the law on discharge of an air weapon within however many feet of the centre of a public road.
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Just put a big dollop of grease on the bracket, works a treat.
Thanks geoff1248, yours is the only method that comes with an assurance that it works so I'll give it a go.
I've got copper grease, white lithium grease, graphite grease, high melting point molybdenum disulphide grease, Holts No-Crode", pneumatic valve grease ........!
--
L\'escargot.
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Buy a diesel. The noise should scare them away, but if that doesn't work the soot will give them asthma so they can't coo.
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And now back to sensible suggestions please.
DD.
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It was. That's my chosen method of control for my pigeons which made salad of my winter cabbages.
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Blimey talk about the wild wild west, the lawless fens take some beating dont they.
------------------------------
TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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The fens, TVM? It's central London. Just off Tower Bridge Road and not far from the Elephant and Castle; everybody carries a shooter round here.
The 50' from the CENTRE of a public highway always amuses me, as it appears to mean that you could stand on the hard shoulder of a three lane motorway and use your air rifle.
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Anyone for Pidgeon pie & cabbage?
....and IIRC it's illegal to shoot an air rifle within 50ft from the center of any public roadway. Other than that collared doves are fair game (on your own property that is).
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.22 air rifle seconded. Wouldn't eat them though!
--
let me be the last to let you down....
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Make a stiff card lifesize copy of a Kestrel (bird of prey) and hang it close the basket.
They should get the message.
dvd
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Just thought I'd let you know how I got on. Rang up, and after a bit of persuading, got a new Sony Ericsoon W810 for nothing. Arrived in the post and it seems to do the job.
Thanks for everyone's advice and help during the thread. Very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Adam
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Funnily enough I've just just got the same one - its almost too small. Camera is pretty good though although I dont think too much of the headphones that come with it. I'm going to try another set to see if sound quality improves.
P
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I'm quite happy with it. Up until I got a camera phone I rubbished them but I found myself using it quite a lot. The one on this is excellent. I copied some photos over using the software and lead supplied and they've very good.
It is very small and I found myself fumbling with the menus a little but I've set up some shortcuts and I'm fine. I'm glad they got rid of the damned joystick though!
I have to be honest, I never got it to listen to music. I bought a minidisc player when they were the thing to have and I've used it about 5 times. I either to listen to music at home on the PC or in the car. That's about it really. That being said, I tried the earphones last night. They weren't really that good but turning on the "Megabass" option improves things a lot.
I nearly blinded myself finding out what the SOS option did though! I've shown everyone I've met since finding it out. It's cool although I can't think of a time I'd need it.
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I called up to cancel my £20 pm O2 contract yesterday - I never ever use the phone.
They have given me an £8 pm contract which gives me 25 cross network minutes and 25 texts pm. Not much use as I never use the phone.
The clincher was that they are going to credit £100 to my account, so by not using the phone (or even using it a little bit) I will be £4 richer next April... :-)
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I never ever use the phone.>>
Seems a little strange then that you should get one unless, like me, it's intended only for emergency purposes.
Perhaps a PAYG phone would have been a better bet?
I've had a Virgin PAYG account for six years and still have £2+ left on only my second £10 voucher...:-)
I get people to ring me - it's oh so much cheaper.
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Most things have a reason. I got it when I had a boss who was strict about personal use of company phone. Company rules have relaxed, boss has gone.
I bet you have an 0870 number for them to ring on too Stuart, so you make a few bob? I looked at that for my homne business line... :-)
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>>I bet you have an 0870 number for them to ring on too Stuart, so you make a few bob?>>
Nice try, but no...:-)
The original reason for buying the mobile was due to taking the Sheltie for long walks, almost invariably by car to a different area daily, so no one knew exactly where I was.
It paid off about three years ago when I accidentally broke a bone in my foot (not, not the infamous metacarsal) and was able to request help using the phone.
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We have a 3 year old normal electric shower fed by the water main supply. Yesterday the shower suddenly cut out for say 5 - 7 seconds and just as suddenly came back on. There was no electricity powercut and I don't think the water pressure altered. No other water-using appliance was in use at the time (e.g washing machine, dishwasher etc.)
The problem is that the water which then sprayed out was at near boiling temperature and caused a burn on junior's neck - thankfully not his face or scalp.
I guess that a small amount of water boiled in the heater as it was just standing there for a few seconds.
I thought these things were meant to be failsafe. Has anybody experienced this? Is ours faulty?
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If you don't know & cannot get it right, what hope is there for the rest of us?!
I daresay that it was caused by a drop in water pressure - maybe three of your neighbours all turned the tap on at once.
Am I right in thinking that new building regs require all hot taps in bathrooms to have thermostats fitted? Well that'll help then, not.
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>>require all hot taps in bathrooms to have thermostats fitted?>>
This query refers to an electric shower.
As far as I am concerned water and electricity don't mix and I would never dream of having an electric heater in my property's shower cubicle.
We have an Aqualisa thermostat controlled shower unit which is used in conjunction with a gas multivalve heater.
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As far as I am concerned water and electricity don't mix and I would never dream of having an electric heater in my property's shower cubicle.
Ever used a kettle Stuart? ;)
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>>Ever used a kettle Stuart? ;)>>
Yes, every day.
But I'm not standing in a shower of water just after it has been heated electrically...:-)
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It does sound like there was a sudden loss of water pressure - after all you say the flow stopped for 5 secs +. in such an event elec showers should cut the elctric supply to the heater using a pressure switch.
At the very least have the pressure switch replaced (if poss) otherwise decomission and replace the shower ASAP.
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Thanks all.
It happened again today!
A little bit of research, some guess work and a little occasionally glowing red light tell me it's a low water pressure problem of which all of us in SE England can expect more. We live near the top of a hill and our supplier Thames Water is reducing the pressure to reduce water leaks.
As for a pressure valve - it works fine - it cuts off when the pressure is too low. The only problem is the small amount of super hot water pushed out when the pressure goes up again (or when the unit decides it's all OK again).
I'll turn it down from the max 10.4kW to a lower setting and see what happens.
PS I've got high blood pressure - if I cut myself and bleed a lot will I save the NHS money on medication? It's a mad world out there.
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A little bit of research, some guess work and a little occasionally glowing red light tell me it's a low water pressure problem of which all of us in SE England can expect more. We live near the top of a hill and our supplier Thames Water is reducing the pressure to reduce water leaks.
If this is the case then complain to the water company, they may have turned the pressure down too low. You should still be able to obtain water at sufficient pressure to power an electric shower.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
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My team just having gained promotion to The Guinness Premiership, I fell to wondering when the fixtures for next season are published.
Does any of this happy band of brothers (and sisters) have access to that information?
We are talking rugby union for the uninitiated.
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Sorry mods, can you transfer to IHAQ.
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I would imagine keeping a regular check on the RFU's website is the best way:
tinyurl.com/jlm75
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You might be better off with the Guinness site
www.rugbyclub.co.uk/84_87.php
or even Quins message boards (which you might already be aware of) - diehard Quins fans will be only too ready to post fixtures as soon as they are published, which I don't think they are yet.
www.sportnetwork.net/boards/list/s98.htm
www.quins.co.uk/default.ink
Say goodbye to Will Greenwood for me - great player, and a great sportsman even though he had an unhappy last season at Tigers.
See you at Welford Road next season??
--
Phil
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Say goodbye to Will Greenwood for me - great player, and a great sportsman even though he had an unhappy last season at Tigers. See you at Welford Road next season?? -- Phil
>>
I steward the players tunnel at Quins, say hello next time you are walking past.
Greenwood still had quite a few flashes of his old form and I think he had mellowed a bit once the England place pressure was off.
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An advert in today/s paper offers me insurance for my gas boiler for £12 a month, boiler + heating £16 a month. I don't even know how much a boiler costs but I think I saw a combi boiler in Jewsons for £500 so perhaps £1000? I can buy breakdown insurance for a £15,000 car for under £40 a month so what possibly justifies this huge difference? The figures are only 'ball park' but there is certainly an anomaly!
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An advert in today/s paper offers me insurance for my gas boiler for £12 a month, boiler + heating £16 a month.
Was an annual boiler service included in the prices?
--
L\'escargot.
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Yes. Unlimited call outs, annual service, parts and labour but with "Terms and conditions". So that is £144 a year for the boiler, my annual car service costs £107, including parts and labour - there is still a bit of a discrepancy IMHO! I agree, at that price my car does not have breakdown cover but it is loads more complicated that a combi boiler!
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check the small print. A lot of these deals include an 'inspection' which is very different to a service (for which they charge extra if the inspection reveals it is needed)
In 7 year my boiler has had a couple of services (£60 each) and I have replaced a faulty valve (£40)
so Im well in profit.
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Mark99 - it is a yearly "Safety and Maintenance Inspection" - I don't know if that means they tell you something is wrong and you pay to get it fixed. Hard to tell; if there is a breakdown they fix it, if a fault is found but the the boiler is working who knows? I get a Safety Inspection every year and mentally keep £60 a year aside for breakdowns, so far the 'account' has £420 in it!
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Answer is simple: It's a rip-off.
Working on the same basis as the 5-year warrantees the electrical superstores sell you for toasters which cost 3 times as much as just buying a replacement toaster would.
Think of it as gambling. The warrantee provider is basically betting you that your boiler won't break down, and like any good betting shop, they make very sure that the odds are in their favour. Therefore, on the balance of probabilities, you'll spend less money by just waiting for it to breakdown, and paying for the repair yourself.
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everything BazzaBear said plus....
The price is set according to what the market will bear, not what the services costs.
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I have my gas appliances serviced once a year by a local heating engineer and it costs me £70 - this involves stripping down the units and cleaning burners etc. Every time the items are serviced you should ask if parts are still available should something major go wrong.
If you are paying monthly for a service and parts contract and no parts are available due to obsolecence what are you actually paying for?
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I've just been looking at the specification of a tumble dryer and it's rated (on the retailer's website) at 5.1 kW. Does this mean that it can't be plugged into a 13 amp socket on a 32 amp ring main?
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L\'escargot.
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If it's a domestic unit it's a typo. Regards Peter
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If it's a domestic unit it's a typo. Regards Peter
It's domestic. I checked 10 dryers of various makes and the retailer quoted ratings from 4.37 kW to 5.47 kW. I think I'll check what the manufacturer says.
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L\'escargot.
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13 amps x 230 Volts = 2990 watts.
So 3kW is the recommended maximum for a 13Amp socket.
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If its 5.1KW/h then it can't but if its for domesic use how are you supposed to connect it?
However 5.1KW sounds like the total energy consumed to dry one load which may take about 90 minutes so the rate of power consumption would be 3.4KW/h in which case it would be ok.
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If its 5.1KW/h then it can't but if its for domesic use how are you supposed to connect it? However 5.1KW sounds like the total energy consumed to dry one load which may take about 90 minutes so the rate of power consumption would be 3.4KW/h in which case it would be ok.
I think you're probably on the right track. It says (and I quote) 5.11 KW energy consumption but I imagine it means 5.11 kWh energy consumption per load.
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L\'escargot.
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I've just found the manufacturer's catalogue online and it does indeed quote the energy consumption in kWh/cycle. For the model in question it says 4.48 kWh/cycle. So much for the accuracy of one of the country's leading electrical retailers ~ they got the value wrong as well as the units!
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L\'escargot.
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KW is a measure of energy consumption rate.
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What I said was accurate.
As hinted at by mapmaker; you are mixing apples and pears.
KW is a rate of consumption and if you know the voltage (which we do) that determines the current. That is the answer I gave and there is no h involved. You muddy the waters. Either it is 5 kW, or it is not.
Now, if the story is changing to be 5 kWh that is an energy, not a power, and that figure, in itself, does not tell you anything about the current consumption. You then need to know over what period the energy is expended/used.
To take a silly extreme, if 5kWh was used steadily over 10 hours the watts would be 500 and the current flow would be just over 2 amps.
In practice things are usually simple enough. The drier has a heater that has a kW rating plus some motor current. The machine should state the current or kW.
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>>As hinted at by mapmaker; you are mixing apples and pears.
Where do I get some of what you're on? ;) I thought I was referring to KW & KWh.
But then just take a trip to the Screwfix electricians' forum. And look at the way the supposed pros get confused between their W m-2, their W m/sq (sic) W sq/m (sic) etc. There's no hope for Comet.
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Well, Schloss TVM is getting a spruce up. It has a pebble dash like surface, that has obviously been pre coloured (oatmeal like colour) with mixed colour shingle (some black) and machine applied.
Its being painted white - pure brilliant white sandtex smooth.
This pebbledash is like the surface of the moon, and is a pig to paint. I have only done the front so far (and thats mostly a bay window) and it has worn one brush to a frazzle and consumed 15 litres of paint so far.
So - Has anyone ever used a spray gun to apply sandtex? what did you use?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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a schutz gun would be my solution with the paint thinned down.
dont know if its your solution though as they use a lot of compressed air
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I tried to do this with PU towers. Ended up hiring a full size compressor, a pig of a job. Mind you Adam might be looking for a summr job soon !
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I'll do it.
The only condition is, you have to hire me permanently. (Last exam tomorrow - no job prospects)
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I dont suppose it helps, but limewash is brilliant white, OK needs a few coats each a couple of days apart but goes on really well using the brush from a dustpan (so 69p for brush and pan in morrisons). You can buy a tub of lime putty for £10 (easily cover a house), water from the tap. use gloves and goggles.
Its breathable, protects the surface and can be redone as needed.
wet the wall thoroughly half an hour before you start. mix limewash to be milk like coulour. when you paint it on its translucent - it dries to be white, dont try to make up a mix thats so thick that it goes on white.
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I had this problem once, repainted a small section under a bay window, and then swore that I would never have a painted pebble dash house EVER again.
Solved problem by moving. The current owner now feels the same way!
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pmh (was peter)
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It's much easier the second time round, its that first attempt that is the real SOB.
PU. compressor, spray gun, - what? who? how? results? in full detail please
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I had the dubious privilege of painting the outside of a pebbledashed house last summer (large 4-bedroom). The house hadn't been painted for about 30 years. I used pure brilliant white weathershield and applied it with a high quality synthetic stubby brush - 6" wide x 1.5" deep x 2" long bristles - that I think claimed masonry use, and I didn't wear one out. Came from B&Q, about £5 for the brush.
Persistence allowed me to do it in just one coat. I guess there were 3 very long man days in applying the paint, and we used loads & loads - 50 or 60 litres. Another two man-day to wash the walls down first (you must do that otherwise the paint falls off - you have, haven't you...?) I found that a stiff-bristled sweeping brush on a 5-foot handle together with a hosepipe (if you can...) was the best way of cleaning down the wall.
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I have the very same brush, from the same source. The ends have frayed and gone furry - its a very sharp agregate in the pebble dash mix.
And yes its been washed, (bungaqlow) - easy peasy hosepipe and yared brush - two hours whole building.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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Want to make music stored on my computer easily accessible to my hifi, this looks just the ticket, but does anyone have any experience or opinions on this?
www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0006ZOYH4/ref=p...8
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Pay the extra cash and get the Squeezebox (either wired or wireless). Worth every penny, the screen is readable from across the room, and it even shows RSS news feeds when it's switched off.
www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BW38NS/qid=1...7
Have played with one and can't recommend it highly enough.
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Have you been able to compare the two?
What information I've found (and there isn't much) suggests that the Roku is the best you can buy in terms of compatibility and sound quality, the two major considerations for me.
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Our consumption of heating oil seems to have rocketed, I can't bear to think how much this winter has cost us, far more than would be explained by the long end to winter and late spring. So much so that I'm wondering if I have a leaking pipe.
No signs of leakage from tank. Pipe disappears underground, goes through kitchen wall under floor comes up through internal wall to feed boiler and AGA.
Aside from filling tank then not burning anything and measuring level after a few days, is there a simple way to test?
God forbid that the pipe is leaking soemwhere under foundations, but if so is there anyway to replace it without chasing it out (I've just laid a new kitchen tiled floor)
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Brother in law had the same problem, reckoned that he needed a seat on the OPEC board. Turned out that the boiler had not been serviced for years. Full service including new jets sorted the problem.
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During May I have to give a 45 minute presentation to a large audience. This is no problem in itself - I enjoy public speaking - and I know the subject inside out and upside down, but for the first time I will be employing the services of an interpreter; this will likely destroy my normal rhythm, timing, and much technique. As if this isn't enough, the translation will be to Mandarin Chinese.
My interpreter will have no specialist knowledge of the subject - and I can't assume that all the audience will either - so some vernacular is a non starter. I also guess that I should aim for a twenty minute presentation to fill the 45 minutes allocated. Chinese and expat colleagues have warned me off trying to impress by speaking some Chinese during what will be my first such presentation; the risks are too high.
Other than this, do any other BRers have experience of presenting to a foreign language, preferably Chinese, audience where no more than a dozen words (hello, please, thankyou, and a few others) and almost zip culturally will be recognisable by way of feedback?
I presented in Paris last year but my good knowledge of French and relative familiarity with French business custom made it a doddle in comparison; I knew exactly what was translated and had a more than half accurate perception of what the uptake was.
As an aside I will be presenting in the Chinese city of Xi'an, famous for the Terracotta Army; in the words of Terry Pratchett, it should be an interesting time.
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Just remember that when writing their name the Chinese put their surname first followed by their given name. I'm not sure what they do verbally.
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L\'escargot.
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Yes, thanks, L'escargot; I was aware of that as a result of addressing Chines colleagues, likewise a few cultural customs such as taking and giving business cards (and paper money and credit cards) with both hands - pausing to study in the process - but as for Chinese public speaking the learning curve is vertical!
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>>do any other BRers have experience of presenting to a foreign language
Yes, tons and tons and tons.
>>preferably Chinese
None. But hay, I don't speak a word of hungarian so how different can it be ?
I have done this loads and could prattle on for hours. Ask more if I missed something.
Firstly I presume it is simultaneous translation ?
Second I assume that as a regular speaker you are skilled in the use of pauses ?
Thirdly given your awareness of the subject and your public speaking experience then your brain resides some two or three sentences in front of your mouth ?
Every where you would normally use a pause, still use one but make it much longer.
Bear in mind that two words in English can be twenty in chinese or vice versa. Understanding also takes some time. The longer pauses allow everybody to catch up.
If I start to read out the digits of a number as in "one, two, seven, ...." you do not know how to say that number until I stop speaking. only then can you work out whether the first number was billions, millions, thousands, or hundreds. The same is true of translating only even more so. All too often the transalator will not know how to translate something you say until you finish saying it - context being so important. Bear that in mind. Say your sentence in incorrect English if it helps the translator - simplistically b) is easier to translate than a).
a) Red was a better bet than Blue if one compared only price
b) comparing only price, Red was cheaper than Blue.
Not a smart example, but perhaps you get the point.
Spend a few minutes with the translator beforehand. They translate much better when they like the person they are translating. They and you need to understand how easily/not easily your accent is for them - as opposed to american beforehand. They will appreciate the courtesy and you will need their gratitiude later.
Watch the translator. Listen to the translator. You may not understand the language but you can judge the flow and watch their body language. If they feel like they are getting behind, then help. If they look confused, then help. Try to explain a difficult point twice using differnet english each time, but don't make it obvious.
You do not speak the language of the audience. They are aware of that. You are a foreigner, there are aware of that also. If you are calm, polite, and respectful they will realise that and it will have the appropriate affect.
No slang.
No colloquialism
Always say "the car was more fast" not "the car was faster". The difference between fast and faster is not easy.
Always say "cannot" never "can't". etc. etc.
Be careful with numbers
Say "people might think this is a good deal" - not "I might think" or "one might think" or "you might think" unless you actually mean it.
Finally they wish to listen to you as much as you wish to speak to them. That makes life easier than, for example, a school, where the audience doesn't particularly want to listen.
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I had the pleasure of presenting in Bucharest (obviously not in China) a couple of years ago. Would endorse everything that Mark has said especially allowing long pauses for catch up.
If your presentation is not scripted try not to listen to the interpreter or you will quickly lose your thread. If the interpreting is via headphones, don't be put off by the lack of facial expression/feedback from your audience.
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IanS
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