*****This thread is now closed - please see volume 91******
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I wonder if anyone can help me with a T.V/DVD query. An elderly relative has purchased a DVD player and wants me to connect it to his television .My problem is that he has a video recorder and a Sky system already running. The television is about ten years old and has just two scart socket which are taken up by the above two pieces of equipment. What is the best way to connect the new DVD player (one scart socket) that will not involve the relative pulling leads out or pressing multiple scrat adaptors as he is very much a technophobe. Also I think the television only has one AV channel.Thanks a lot.
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Can you run the dvd through the video ? Sometimes yu get deliberate watermarks or interference, but worth trying,
Otherwise you need a multiacart adapter.
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Mark, Would you explain what deliberate watermarks are and what they look like. With one setup I have I get horizontal lines and wondered if they are what you describe.
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Its all to do with the us copyright rubbish, in order to prevent copying they are supposed to introduce artifacts or anything that degrades the quality when a video player detects that it has a dvd ( and presumably other copyrighted material from another source) as its input.
I have seen different artifacts. on one video player there is what looks like a watermark, on another I get speckles on screen.
I'm sure someone who knows the real detail will inform us shortly.
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Thanks Mark, With what you say I don't think it applies to my particular setup.
In my study I have two VHS recorders + Freeview all connected together. In one particular configuration I get horizontal lines but as there can be no copyright issue it must be some other reason.
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Can you run the dvd through the video ? Sometimes yu get deliberate watermarks or interference,
My DVD recorder is configured in this way and I don't have a problem with watermarks. I didn't have a problem with my previous DVD player running through the Video before it got to the TV either.
Back to the original question:- Although the VCR and DVD player may only have one scart socket, does the Satellite box only have one as well? All of the Sky box's I've ever seen have 2 scart sockets. If this is the case, you could plug the DVD player into the Sky box, which in turn links through the VCR to the TV.
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Just a thought but Unless a problem using RF lead from video,remove scart and put dvd in its place.Tv should be already tuned in to video?
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Steve
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Am pretty sure you can get a staightforward 2 into 1 adapter. Think I've seen one for a couple of quid in the QD stores.
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You can get multiple scart blocks, like a 13 amp plug extension strip.
However
you either need to switch all the devices off except the one you want, or get a strip with a slector switch and fiddle around at the back to select the scart you want.
The lines you have is interference, one signal interfering with the other.
Scart is a pain. Its not designed for multiple devices.
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You can get multiple scart blocks, like a 13 amp plug extension strip. Scart is a pain. Its not designed for multiple devices.
I agree. Scart plugs are also a poor design especially with the common very heavy cables that have a tendency to slightly dislodge the plugs thus causing all sorts of apparent faults.
The ribbon cables ease this problem a little and of course can more easily be tied up.
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I have one of these unswitched 3 into 1 scart blocks for the tv in the bedroom. TV has one scart, but I'm connecting a Freeview box, DVD and video (with one scart).
I'm not impressed with them at all. It stops the TV recieving a colour signal from the DVD and reduces the sound level so much the volume on the TV has to be nearly on full to hear anything. The video is colour, but again reduced volume.
Is there a remote switched, so directly connected source only version of these blocks available. (I want to stay warm and in bed when I swap from one to the other!)
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Simon
you have two choices.
Kick Anne out of bed to switch them manually
or
www.satellitesuperstore.com/avhub.htm
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>you have two choices.
>Kick Anne out of bed to switch them manually
>or
www.satellitesuperstore.com/avhub.htm
Kicking her out of bed is _not_ an option! - she would just kick me back harder.
Lizzie the cat gets more of the bed than I do!
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Use S-Video and the red and white audio cables if the TV set has these facilities.
Otherwise an automatic switching Scart box may be the only answer - it will accommodate the Scart leads from the video and the DVD player and switch to whatever has been selected. It's done using a voltage pin in the Scart plug's 21-pin connections.
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Aaah... the infamous Pin 8.
I've disabled this a couple of times on other people's setups to allow the video to record Sky and not interfere with the TV.
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Indeed, pin 8 makes things useless when you need to record from one to the other.
Scart is strange. A european standard, that hung around for years not being used, then when it was out of date and not fit for the purpose of multiple connections it suddenly sprang into widespread use.
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to allow the video to record Sky>>
I don't have Sky, only Freeview. My 12-year-old Mitsubishi M58 records Freeview channels as normal using a channel intended for satellite signals.
I have the video, Pioneer Freeview set top box and a DVD player feeding the same TV.
The Pioneer's signals are fed through the VCR (as would be expected) and then to the TV's AV Scart socket; the DVD player uses the RCA video phono plug and red and white audio cables setup to the TV's S-Video Scart socket.
There are also the red, white and yellow front panel connnections but these are only required for occasional camcorders etc use as a permanent arrangement would look very untidy.
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PS
Part of the problem, of course, lies in the fact that the TV is 10 years old and multiple connections were rarely required when it was first produced.
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Mostyn, try this url,
tinyurl.com/dbcjn
it's on the dtv.org.uk website and is a rather useful little connection wizard for scarts.
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Thanks a lot for the very good ideas.I think I will go for the s-video suggestion as that seems to involve the least change and hassle for me and my relative.
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We currently receive analogue TV from Belmont ~ map reference TF 218836. If we have a set-top box so that we can get digital will we need to turn the aerial towards a different transmitter and if so, which?
I realise that we will need a new (wideband) aerial.
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L\'escargot.
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Try this;
www.wolfbane.com/articles/tvr.htm
Number_Cruncher
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Thanks, Number_Cruncher.
It told me everything I needed to know ~ same transmitter, suggested aerial "amplified extra high gain".
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L\'escargot.
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Put some high quality, well shielded, low loss cable in as well. The normal air gap 25p a metre stuff dont cut it with digital.
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Put some high quality, well shielded, low loss cable in as well. The normal air gap 25p a metre stuff dont cut it with digital.
Thanks, RF. Recommendation duly noted.
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L\'escargot.
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Next question ~ how close (in degrees) do you have to line up the aerial with the transmitter? I can work out the bearing, and I have a small compass. I'm proposing to put it in the loft as per the existing aerial. (I don't think it's any good copying the alignment of the existing aerial because by my calculations it's about 30 degrees out.)
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L\'escargot.
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Two man job, your set top box will have a signal strength display so one man watching tele shouting at you in loft.
Dont recomend loft, not for digital.
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You need to get as accurate and as good a signal as you can. Digital TV is not like analogue.
If the signal quality goes down, its not like analogue where it gets a bit snowy or shadowy but still watchable, with digital you end up with freezing pictures, half missing, breaking up into big squares - very annoying
Also with analogue you may get a weak channel 5 say, with digital, you loose whole banks of channels as they are multiplexed on the same channel frequency.
As i said your set top box should have a setup/diagnostic display that gives you signal strength and signal quality.
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I'm lucky in that I get my TV signals from Winter Hill - in fact if I go about a mile from my home to where the residential area gives way to countryside, I can actually see the transmitter about 15 miles away.
My set top box and Freeview PCI TV card both bring in all 82 current Freeview TV and radio signals at full strength. The radio station transmissions are usually superior to DAB as there is no heavy compression applied compared to some of the DAB stations.
What a lot of people don't realise is that, unless they have a digital TV, the digital signals are converted back to analogue. This brings a short delay in picture and sound being shown compared to the standard analogue terrestial equivalent.
By the way, many people with the newer set top boxes are having problems with some digital transmissions. It's to do with the way they are transmitted and the retail trade has been going spare for some time as customers blame them for the problem.
Older set top boxes (the ON/ITVDigital ones) are generally unaffected.
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"What a lot of people don't realise is that, unless they have a digital TV, the digital signals are converted back to analogue. This brings a short delay in picture and sound being shown compared to the standard analogue terrestial equivalent."
That's interesting Stuart, I didn't know that. I have a TV card on my PC and was intending to get a digital box to plug into it. Would I be better off getting a digital TV card instead?
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andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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Think there's a delay in digital anyway originating at the transmitter. And radio (DAB) is certainly a second or so behind VHF
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Your aerial installer should know the answer, but I don't see any problem arising with Belmont as it was one of the first 21 of the planned 81 digital enabled transmitters to go into operation (on November 1, 1998, the launch of the world's first DTT service).
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PS
Lots of info on DTT coverage etc at:
www.dtg.org.uk/industry/
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Belmont transmitter information listed at:
www.dtg.org.uk/retailer/tx_n.html
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I guess we must have a strong signal down here on the South Coast (SO31). I've got a Freeview box running off a dodgy old aerial in the loft with B&Q 'special' coax. The signal strength on the unit is always very good.
?
P
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I had to be very accurate with mine. Between me and crystal palace (15 miles - all 2megawatts of it) Is the main National Grid feed for South and West london* ( about 1000 yards away )
So to punch through several zillion volts sizzling high in the air, I had to use a high gain aerial with lots of elements, that had a very narrow field of view (about 10 degrees)
* The Weybridge switching station. Interesting history, the old bill got called out once as someone reported suspicious characters round it with guns. Turns out it was the SAS who had been told the IRA were going to blow it up. There was nearly a gunfight at the OK coral between the met/surrey and the SAS.
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We live in Somerset, can't get a signal from the Bristol transmitter becuase the Mendip hills are in the way, there is a local repeater that gives analogue BBC1 & 2, ITV1 and C4 only, therefore we pick up both analogue and digital from the Plymouth transmitter some 110 miles away, I am told that only Nokia digi boxes are able to achieve the gain required to deliver all channels over this distance, either way ours works fine, we have two aerials so we can also pick up the local analogue and get local news etc.
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Does anyone here subscribe to 'which?' magazine?
They recently reviewed freeview set top boxes and I was interested to see which models they liked.
Thanks
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I get Which? but don't recall a Freeview set top boxes review offhand.
One source is:
www.radioandtelly.co.uk/freeviewreceivers.html
However, if you are prepared to spend a little bit more than you would for the cheap and cheerful models, one of the best buys around is the Humax F2-FOX T.
More details at:
www.humaxdigital.com/uk/products/f2-foxt.asp
Reviews at:
www.digitalspy.co.uk/article/ds15946.html
Incidentally, my mate runs an independent audio/visual/appliance retail outlet and this is the Freeview box he would use himself from the vast choice available if he didn't have Sky.
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Just had a look on the Which? website - latest review was of PVR models (updated this month) and the best Freeview buy was the Humax(!) PVR8000T-80 and there's a link to it provided:
sub.which.net/ec/pvrs/pv_7.jsp
but whether you will be able to open the link I'm not sure as you may not be a Which? website subscriber. There will be information on the Humax website.
However, it only has one tuner so needs another Freeview set top box if you want to record one and watch another channel.
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Interesting subject, as many will be going digital TV for Xmas. And using a hard disk type recorder, instead of tape, is the way to go.
PVR-8000T is listed on the Humax site:
www.humaxdigital.com/uk/products/pvr-8000t.asp
The PVR-8000T-80 means it has an 80 gigabyte hard disk.
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At the price (£170 in Currys) I'm surprised it only has one tuner. Was there any reason not to go for the Fusion FVRT100, which has a 40GB hard disk but two tuner for £130?
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I think this is what you are after - heavily edited!
"...The Humax F2 Fox T - currently £80 from John Lewis - lots of features and is easy to use - best choice if your TV doesn?t have a Scart socket to plug a set-top box into as you can connect it via the aerial socket instead.
The Sony VTXD800 - plenty of features - decent EPG and, like the Humax, has a remote that can also control other makes of TV. It costs £100 from Currys, Dixons and Miller Brothers..."
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I personally think this is way too much for a freeview box to be honest. Have a look at www.digitalspy.co.uk/ - particularly the forums at: forum.digitalspy.co.uk/board/
You should be able to get something decent for about £40 - maybe a bit more if you want a box that allows you to take some extra channels from topuptv (www.topuptv.com).
If you don't need topuptv you could get a freeview box with a hard-drive that allows you to record programmes to the hard-drive to watch later - so-called PVRs. Make sure you get one with a twin-tuner if you want this. Probable need to spend £120 to £200 on one of these though.
Places to look:
www.argos.co.uk
www.richersounds.com
www.comet.co.uk
www.currys.co.uk
or pop into your local asda or tesco. Some good deals there and if it doesn't suit just take it back for a refund
Good luck!
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>>The Humax F2 Fox T - currently £80 from John Lewis >>
That's the same price, less a penny, as my best mate requests....:-)
There is a reason for similar products to be available at a range of prices and one of them is in-built quality and reliability - this is particularly relevant when comparing PVRs, whether with one tuner or two and/or 40, 80 or 16OGB drives.
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If you are going up to £200 (Dabbs) there is the next Humax up, the PVR-9200T that has two tuners with a 160GB disk.
I have yet to get my head round TV recording. For instance, LCD TVs bought now have an in-built digi-tuner and so a set-top box with one is not needed, but can it still be useful to have it?
A recording facility with a TV display of what you are about to do is needed.
So what does one buy?
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I understand that we are now in Ramadan, and the Eid festival that marks its end makes it impossible to get a cab in Luton. Can anyone tell me when Eid is likely to fall so I can arrange my diary so I don't have a long drunken walk?
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I read often, only post occasionally
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Apparently, the festivities run from the 5th to the 13th of November. Not sure if there is an actual Eid-day and when it would be.
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Life is complex; it has real and imaginary parts.
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Can anyone tell me when Eid is likely to fall so I can arrange my diary
>.
good job you said "likely" - because it depends on sighting the new moon in saudi arabia.
all faith major celebration dates here:
www.eefaithscouncil.org.uk/calea4.pdf
google "ramadan muslim festival dates 2005" for lots of info.
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Ramadan, a month of fasting during daylight hours, this year runs from Tues 4th October to Friday 4th November.
HTH
Charles
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Was Charles {P} but someone c o p i e d my name with spaces.
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Hi
Nokia 5110
I have this mobile, and recently it has been turning itself off occasionally. It only does it when I'm not using it. If I'm texting or making a call then it's fine.
Do any BR's know the reason for this? Is it dirty battery contacts or general battery condition? Or is the phone just too old (5 years)?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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Mike Farrow
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All bow, < door opens and nokia 51xx 61xx king enters - 30 fixed to date and counting >
Turning off is a favourite Nokia 5110 trick. Its caused by one of three things. You can usually make it turn off by gently twisting the phone (ie try turning the top l-r and the bottom r-l)
1/ Dirty battery external contacts. Clean the battery contacts on the battery so they are bright, do the same with the contacts on the phone (try bending them out slightly as well)
Note need to be cleaned to BRIGHT
2/Diry internal contacts. The nokia 5110 is built as a sandwich, two boards with screws going al the way through from back case to front frame. Need a Torx8 screwdriver (2 quid down your local computer fair) Take the phone apart and you will see the boards inside contact each other by sprung contacts, sprung pins and tabs. NOkias breath in moisture and corrode round the pins and tabs. A good clean will sort it out. The battery sprung levers are a favourite where they touch the inner board.
3/Battery. Yes they crack up inside and flexing them causes them to short. not fixable new one off ebay.
Is it worth it? I think it is. The 5110 is a very good, solid reliable phone with excelent clarity, signal strength, battery life. Possibly the best nokia ever made.
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My 5110 came in a fetching blue and was £150. Boy was I going to see my money's worth for that.
I dropped it, walked on it, spilt a pint on it, dropped it again and countless other things.
It still works and is knocking about somewhere in a cupboard just needing a good clean.
Well worth keeping.
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Thanks for that RF. I was hoping it would be connection related, but wasn't going to open it up/clean it or replace the battery if it was something awkward like the electrics/capacitors going!
Adam and RF, totally agree on the advantages of this phone. SWMBO has a 6150 which doesn't keep it's battery life half as well and seems to be twice as tempremental. That will also receive the disassembly my phone will be enduring! I don't think I can part with this phone yet, it's been with me so long and isn't going to get lost like a new iPod, plus I've still flabbergasted by my sister's Snake score on it of 850!
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Mike Farrow
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mobile phones turn themselves off when they think that their battery is running low.
There'll be a circuit that measures the battery voltage and once that circuit "thinks" the battery is below the minimum threshold then the phone will turn itself off. If the battery isn't low then a fualt has occured with this circuit, but without a close look at it then I've no idea what part of the circuit has gone wrong.
At five years olf, it may just be time to buy a new phone.
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I read often, only post occasionally
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I had a Nokia something model which would turn itself off. A colleague folded a small piece of paper and put it in between the battery and the case and the problem was much reduced. Dunno why, but it was.
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The problem that is solved with a piece of paper is that Nokia choose to support SIM cards by the edges. Over time, the pressure of the contacts on the SIM card cause it to bow outwards and just switch the phone off. A piece of rolled up paper between battery and SIM card presses the SIM onto the contacts. This has been a problem with every Nokia I have owned and is always worth a try.
I do claim to be the inventor of this solution and have fixed dozens of colleagues phones. Even when they had talked themselves into needing a replacement and weren't too chuffed at my "help".
V
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The problem that is solved with a piece of paper is that Nokia choose to support SIM cards by the edges. Over time, the pressure of the contacts on the SIM card cause it to bow outwards and just switch the phone off. A piece of rolled up paper between battery and SIM card presses the SIM onto the contacts. This has been a problem with every Nokia I have owned and is always worth a try. I do claim to be the inventor of this solution and have fixed dozens of colleagues phones. Even when they had talked themselves into needing a replacement and weren't too chuffed at my "help". V
Oi! I've got copyright on this trick! Actually Vin, great to see that I'm not alone, and a couple of years back I thus fixed my 7110 that is still in sterling service with the missus (who loves the large scrollable and clickable selection device). Before that I used the same trick on my 3110.
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The handle and blade of my 15-year-old Laser kitchen knife have recently parted company. You may think that 15 years is a good innings for a very ordinary knife except that I seem to remember it was sold with a lifetime guarantee.
Laser knives were made by Richardsons of Sheffield, who no longer seem to use the brand, although they still supply knives with the same type of serrated blade. They have a web site at www.richardson-sheffield.co.uk but it's one of those annoying Flash sites that are more style than substance.
Before I embarrass myself by troubling the company with such a trivial enquiry*, does anyone happen to know whether the lifetime guarantee is a figment of my imagination?
*Yes, I know that's hardly worse than troubling the Backroom with it.
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Always worth going direct to manufacturer. We had a set of Viners cutlery as a wedding present in 1962. About 6/7 years ago some person who shall be nameless left a dish with two of the white handled knives overhanging a live hotplate which resulted in total incineration of the material (simulated ivory??). I sent these two knives to Viners of Sheffield with a request for a quote for their repair. Three days later knives were returned as new with a letter from Viners stating that they would not be charging for the repair as the paper work would cost them more than the job. Viners I am pretty sure have been taken over by some American company sometime ago so I do not think it would be possible to repeat this incident today...:-((
Happy Motoring Phil I
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>>Always worth going direct to manufacturer>>
Agree wholeheartedly. Any manufacturer who values good will makes the maximum attempt to please its customers even if products are out of date.
I've have a number of notable examples in recent years, especially on the computer side, but I do remember my mother once writing to a firm in the late 1960s or early 70s in Newcastle who produced the Tyne brand food products.
Her only reason for writing was to compliment the company on its excellent products at truly value for money prices.
About a week later one of the firm's salesman knocked on the front door, thanked her profusely for her letter and handed over a large backet of his company's products. He stayed for about an hour enjoying a cup of tea and a chat.
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IIRC it is a 25 year guarantee. Do you still have the receipt....?
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IIRC it is a 25 year guarantee. Do you still have the receipt....?
I fear not but I don't think they've been making them that long!
Thanks for all the responses.
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>>but I don't think they've been making them that long!>>
Then, if the 25 year guarantee figure suggested is correct, y ou are definitely covered whether you have a receipt or not...:-)
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Just looked up the website - you can open pages without Flash etc if you wish.
The term is Laser Edge rather than Laser brand as far as I can make out.
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Locally, standard fees seem to be 2% for selling a property with 8 weeks sole agency.
My preferred agent has made it clear that this is negotiable, so what should I go for and what should I settle for?
This agent is (for various reasons) a better prospect than all the others.
Any thoughts/tips?
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2% is a lot for sole agency, although the London market differs from anywhere else in my 'professional' experience. I would go for 1.5% plus VAT but inclusive of marketing expenses if you think he is going to sell the house quickly. If it will be really quick go fo 1.25% with an incentive of 0.25% for sale exchanged within eight weeks or for a sale price over a pre-determined figure. E.g. Asking price £100,000; fee = £1250 plus VAT. Sell for £110,000 fee = £1650 + VAT
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
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Last time I sold my house I managed to get a bit of a bidding war going.
I got two local agents involved, both of whom seemed keen to get the instruction. I think I got it down to 1.25 in the end.
One good tactic is not to get too hung up about the percentage. Look at it in terms of the actual cost. If they are selling a 250,000 house, then 2% equates to £5,000. 5 years ago, they would have got just over half of this, but their job hasn't doubled in value since then has it?
They will probably try and win your custom by saying that they have a waiting list for properties like yours and will be able to sell it pronto. Throw this back at them. If that is true, you can say, then why should you have to pay £5,000 (or whatever the figure is)
Compared to Estate Agents's fees, the solicitor's charges begin to look like good value for money!
One word of caution, read teh smal print of your estate agent's contract, particularly the bits that talk about when a fees is payable (even if the agent did not actually find the seller) The courts can and do enforce these.
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About two years ago the Telegraph carried a large feature about estate agents handling half-a-million pound plus properties for sale in villages in a southern area of the UK.
Undercover reporters, following investigations, highlighted the fact that more often than not, acting as prospective buyers, they received scant help or information from agents and the home owners themselves had been regularly requested to supervise property viewings as the estate agents were "too busy" to cope...:-)
The paper highlighted the fact that sellers were paying out very large sums to, supposedly, have the strain and time involved of selling a property taken over by the estate agents.
I also suspect that part of the so-called property boom in recent years has been fuelled by estate agents being over optimistic about potential selling price valuations.
The negative equity fiasco of the 1980s was largely caused by sheer greed on the part of those who took on more than they could afford for a property in the belief that they would "make a killing" in a year or so by selling it.
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I recently sold my late mother's house down in Brixham Devon. I was advised to get valuations from 3 estate agents. There was a large variation in value: £215K, £225K and £225K for quick sale or £250K if we were prepared to wait. We went for the highest mainly because he seemed the most professional and was the most local so he would know the area. All took commission of 1.25% as sole agents and about 2% otherwise. We told them all that we were getting 3 valuations which probably encouraged them to offer competitive rates. The chosen agent - Churchills - was very helpful and friendly. I lived 200 miles away, and he did all the work, and a bit more. In the end we sold 5% below the asking price, but we were probably asking for a bit more than it was worth. According to the agent the market is such that people expect a bit off.
Leif
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Some while ago my mother dies, and as executor I was entrusted with selling her house (200 mile away from me). After her funeral the neighbours came round basically saying give us some land or you will not be able to sell the house. It is near impossible to sell a house with an active dispute.
I engaged a solicitor, and negotiated a provisional agreement. I erected a fence on the proposed boundary, and the neighbours said it was fine. Then four weeks later I received a letter from their solicitor admonishing me for erecting the fence in the wrong place, and stating that I had agreed to the neighbours moving the fence to the 'correct' position. I visited the house and found that they had moved their fence 4" closer and then erected a new boudary fence on our side. I informed their solicitor that they were lying, as was not aware of what they had done, and supplied photos to prove that they had moved fences. The solicitor ignored my protestations and said that they had engaged a surveyor to draw up a deed for the new fencing. 6 weeks ago the sale went through despite the dispute. The seller knew about it all.
I am now receiving letters from their solicitor stating that as I verbally agreed to the new boundary I am legally obliged to sign the new deed and that I must do so by return of post. I feel that the solicitor is trying to bully me into acceding to their demands. He/she has a) ignored my protestations that I made no such verbal agreement and accepts the neighbours version and b) ignored the photos that prove that they moved the fencing.
So the questions.
1) Are solicitors obliged to behave reasonably, or
can they effectively do anything which is not blatantly illegal?
2) The letters from the solicitor are always signed ?FBS? (fictional name ? hopefully. DD) with no name. I assume ?FBS? to be ?Fred Bloggs Solicitors?, the name of the solicitors. Is this normal? It seems very rude to act anonymously and I find it disconcerting, as if the person is trying to avoid responsibility for their actions. The most recent letter is not even signed. Does this have any signficance?
Leif
{Solicitor's name changed - as airing on the side of caution. DD}
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I am now receiving letters from their solicitor stating that as I verbally agreed to the new boundary I am legally obliged to sign the new deed and that I must do so by return of post. I feel that the solicitor is trying to bully me into acceding to their demands. He/she has a) ignored my protestations that I made no such verbal agreement and accepts the neighbours version and b) ignored the photos that prove that they moved the fencing.
You probably are obliged to sign on the basis that the deeds that have been drafted match the agreement however the fact that they do not means that you you must take a course of action so as to ensure that the deeds are re drafted and that the neighbours are accordingly obliged to move the fence, a job for your solicitor, a solicitor acting on your behalf.
One thing that could work against you, you say the sale has gone through, therefore have you accepted payment?, if so you should lodge this sum with your solicitor until such time as an agreement that is accepatble to all/both parties is reached.
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Cheddar: The deeds drafted do not match the provisional agreement that we reached. They moved the fencing without my knowledge then drew up a deed to match. I'm not sure what you mean about the sale proceeds. The sale is complete.
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As the sale is complete I would just sign the deed and be done with it. As long as you were happy with the sale price what more is to be gained?
(I have no legal qulaifications mind you!)
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As the sale is complete I would just sign the deed and be done with it. As long as you were happy with the sale price what more is to be gained? (I have no legal qulaifications mind you!)
My late mother was an elderly disabled woman in her late 70's who over 5 years was frightened and bullied by these people. For example, they chopped down one or her trees and left it lying across her garden. I found out when I visited her and was astonished to find a tree chain sawed at the base, and with the roots gone! They handed a letter to a builder constructing a path to allow her out on her wheel chair ordering him to leave, and telling him that she was not fit to look after herself. They sent letter ordering her not to touch their fences. (The deeds state that they are shared.)
I tried to deal fairly with them but have reached the limt.
Maybe you don't understand this, but I will not under any circumstances sign their deed.
Leif
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Fair enough. Obviously I was not aware of the background. Best of luck with sorting it out.
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Cheddar: The deeds drafted do not match the provisional agreement that we reached. They moved the fencing without my knowledge then drew up a deed to match. I'm not sure what you mean about the sale proceeds. The sale is complete.
If you have received payment for the section of land the other party will assume that you have accepted the terms of the sale, i.e. the position of the border etc, and therefore expect you to sign the deeds. If you dispute the terms of the sale you should lodge the sum of money you have recieved with a 3rd party, your solicitor will do, until such time as the dispute is resolved, in doing so you are not then accepting payment in advance of the dispute over the border being resolved.
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If, as I understand your inquiry, "FBS" act for your late mother's neighbours I'd have nothing to do with them except to refer them to the solicitor you engaged. Probably unprofessional to approach you direct if you've made clear you are represented.
Normal practice for solicitors to sign with squiggle in name of firm when dealing with the opposition or neutrals (I used to get the odd one signed by a partner if he was acting for me or my profesional client). You can usually work out the handling partner's name from their reference as initials are pretty transparent!!.
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If, as I understand your inquiry, "FBS" act for your late mother's neighbours I'd have nothing to do with them except to refer them to the solicitor you engaged. Probably unprofessional to approach you direct if you've made clear you are represented. Normal practice for solicitors to sign with squiggle in name of firm when dealing with the opposition or neutrals (I used to get the odd one signed by a partner if he was acting for me or my profesional client). You can usually work out the handling partner's name from their reference as initials are pretty transparent!!.
My solicitor no longer acts for me as I did not want to incur further costs for the estate since the house has sold.
Leif
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Unless solicitors are writing to their own clients (or third parties that they know) they will always sign in their firm name. Nothing wrong with this.
A solicitors job is to represent his/her client. They do not owe you a duty to "act reasonably" towards you.
There is insufficient info from your postings to be definitive about this, but what I would say is that an interest in land can only be dealt with (ie transferred) by a written document. An oral agreement does not work.
If the coundary is where you say it is, then the supposed agreement is actually an agreement to give away a bit of your late mother's garden. Such an agreement has to be in writing.
Boundary dispute are a nightmare. They are often painted as two unreasonable neighbours who do not see sense and both act unreasonably. Judges often look at them like this. In my experience it is nearly always one neighbour who is acting unreasonably. It can get very nasty.
If there is any way you can deal with this without getting any further involved, that is the route I would take. It is no skin off your nose now, either way.
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I am naturally very sorry to hear of the death of your Mother, and I take your point about sale difficulties with an ongoing dispute; however you say the sale has gone through and you have the funds. Having just spent £3000 on a legal matter and got absolutely nowhere, in terms of a result I do suggest that you settle. The neighbours sound ghastly but you don't live there and won't ever have to. If I read you correctly there is a matter of principle involved here (always expensive to follow up) and a boundary dispute involving 4 inches on a disputed boundary. I know it might hurt but why not sign up and walk away from it. If it goes to trial and you lose and have to pay 2 lots of costs you won't will be even less happy than you are now IMHO. The solicitors will pick up £100+ per hour plus £25 per letter plus £15 per phone call on both sides whatever the outcome. I think you are in a very unpleasant position but I am not sure that fighting over a 4 inch boundary move, on a sale that has gone thru and for which you have the proceeds, is a very good idea!
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Unless solicitors are writing to their own clients (or third parties that they know) they will always sign in their firm name. Nothing wrong with this.
As do some surveyors! i used to have to sign letters at one firm i worked at becuase it was a partnership (at least, that was the reason i was given). At a limited company, you can sign "for and on behalf of ABC Ltd".
I found very old fashioned and it went against trying to improve client relations. And it sounds aloof, which is one step away from being rude.
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Just a gentle reminder. Solicitors act on the instructions of their clients, sometimes this may indeed be perceived as being "unreasonable" by the other parties, and may indeed be accepted as being so when the facts or judgements finally come to a conclusion these can also show an instruction as being flawed...
The reference on the letter e.g. "xxx/yy" will be the initials of the writer and typist (olde worlde) which will generally identify the author. Sometimes letters are written by "clerks" or legal assistants.
For reasons previously given I never give anything other than general advice in relation to legal matters on this site.
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To those who have given advice, especially those with a legal background, many thanks.
Pugugly: Thanks for the specific comments, and I realise why someone would not want to give detailed legal advice on a forum.
Leif
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Leif,
No legal advice, just world advice. By all means ignore it.
Your task in life is to have a happy and productive one.
If the delay and hassle you can cause your mother's ex-neighbours outweighs the costs and trouble of going to law on this, then that is one decision made. In that case it'll be worth the money and time for the extra happiness.
If you come down on the other side of this, then by all means sign and get on with making your life in the future as happy and productive as possible.
None of us know what your balance is on this. Whatever your choice, it'll be the right one for you.
Hope it works out - please let us know.
V
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Does such an item exist:
Corded phone and combined digital answering machine with:
Large buttons
At least 5 single memory buttons that can have large labels affixed
Has CLI display
Has adjustable ringer volume and pitch
Easy to use
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I've not seen one on the market that has all your requirements - but the BT Big Button phone has;
Easy grip handset and large buttons
Call indicator light- flashes when the phone rings or there are messages waiting
Hear the number of your last caller
Speech amplification - adjust the volume of your voice and that of your caller
Hearing aid compatiable
Stores 13 numbers for dialing in an instant
Stores the last number you called
1571 Message Indicator
(Taken from the BT Website)
I know from previous work in the telephone industry that the phone you require is often requested but these requests are often ignored.
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This morning my wall mounted Gainsborough power shower has bust - I think it's the pump (c £150). I can the same model for c £160 so this is the easy/safer option.
But the bathroom is going to get a makeover in the New Year so I'm wondering whether I would be better to get a "proper" power shower - pump in the loft etc.
Screwfix have a couple of pumps between £100 and £140 - 1.3 and 1.5 Bar. Any recommendation as to what Bar would be good?
Apart from the pump, I need a new hose/head and what else? (I have a plumber living next door!)
One daughter takes 20 - 30 minute showers every day (much to our annoyance)- would all pumps cope with this?
As the supply (H&C) and power is already in the loft, I imagine this won't be a huge job for an experienced plumber. Am I right?
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Of course, I'd forgotten a means of controlling the shower...taps presumably...
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How do you heat the water?
I ask because we have a new Main multipoint water heater (actually a Baxi product) which recently replaced a near 20-year-old Mersey equivalent that had finally given up the ghost (hard water area).
Throughout the time we have had a multipoint it has been used to supply an Aqualista showerhead unit and delivers a strong water flow at all times. The water tank is in the loft.
This was in spite of the fact that I was advised firstly that we would require a "Power" shower and, secondly, told by the gas board that no way could a gas multipoint unit be used with a shower...:-)
In fact the multipoint delivers water as hot as you want all over the house and at the lowest possible cost.
The Main costs around £340 delivered using the Internet.
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I'm now presuming from your description that you might have an electrically powered shower?
Never felt comfortable being in such close proximity to both water and an electricity supply....:-)
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Hot & cold water both come from tanks in the loft, mixed somewhere in the pump. Yes, its electrical and I understand the cold cannot be delivered under mains pressure.
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Smokie,
No problems doing what you want to do but be aware that some pumps require a positive head to work, ie a minimum height for the supply tank above the pump, this can make locating the pump in the loft problematic. This can be resolved by feeding the shower supply down to 1st floor level and into the pump then back up to the shower outlet.
This is because the water must start flowing when the shower is turned on in order to activate a flow switch to turn on the pump.
StarGazer
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Never felt comfortable being in such close proximity to both water and an electricity supply....:-)
Quite agree re. the uncomfortable feeling; however here the showers are at least earthed; in Asia they usually are not, the showers are supplied by a two core cable passing through a cicuit breaker which *may* act as an RCD. It certainly makes for a quick brisk shower, the locals just have cold showers, so no problems or worries for them.
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You should really look to install a proper thermostatic shower unit - this will control the temperature even if other users draw water. They're not cheap though - about £250. Providing the hot and cold water supplies are close to one another in the loft, installing the pump will be easy enough. Be aware though, it might be noisy in the loft as it may make the ceiling vibrate. If there are a number of users, and some are prone to trying to wash themselves away, then you need to make sure the pump is continuously rated, ie the motor can run continuously - cheaper ones tend to be rated only for 15 mins / hour or something. Stuart Turner make very good shower pumps - but they are pricey! The 'bar' rating might be a bit misleading, as this refers only to one operating point. What you need to do is get a hold of the pump curve (should be available from the maker) - which is a curve of flow versus pressures - and see what flow the pump will make at say 1.5 bar - for a good shower, you should be looking in the region of 12 l/min. Thermostatic showers tend to have quite high pressure drops, so need more pressure to get a decent flow.
More expensive pumps will tend to be continuously rated, fitted with quiet motors, and antivibration feet, have reasonably flat curves, and last a long time. As usual you get what you pay for!!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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>>They're not cheap though - about £250...
We got our Aqualisa showerhead and thermostatic control in the 1980s when the missus spotted it in a local plumbers' merchants at sale time.
Even then it was £310 including VAT but, apart from one new cartridge, it has been very reliable; not surprising as the firm is regarded as one of the top manufacturers of such products.
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If you buy a thermostatic shower mixer (bar type) in France you can pay as little as 25?! They are designed for mains pressure only, altho function ok with a pump. (French plumbing systems store and heats the hw at mains pressure). They even come with over temp limit, and a 2 year guarantee.
They are in my experience totally reliable, 2 fitted, 3 years ago and no problems.
I would spend my money on ST pump, well engineered and good service backup in the UK.
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pmh (was peter)
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Mr RF here and on his third shower pump in 5 years. 1/ Dont buy a cheap pump for 150 quid (specifically I mean a slamander or pumpwise) 2/ Dont mount the pump in the loft, not enough head - causes cavitation and screws pump. 3/ Dont run it above 60c hot feed in in (get a pipe thermomoter) 4/ This is a very good pump Stuart Turner Monsoon 1.0 bar twin. Note the opening line I know what about I talk...
Edited by Avant on 02/04/2014 at 18:09
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But the bathroom is going to get a makeover in the New Year so I'm wondering whether I would be better to get a "proper" power shower - pump in the loft etc. Apart from the pump, I need a new hose/head and what else? (I have a plumber living next door!)
I installed an Aqualisa thermostatic control and am very pleased with it.
My tank is on a 5 foot high plinth in the loft. Shower is on the ground floor so I guess 15 feet or so of head.
22mm pipe used as recommended combined with their larger than standard diameter flexible hose certainly gives a very very good wetting shower and total consistency of temperature/flow, summer and winter. NO pump used but the pipe runs are a little long but I was aware of that at the start.
Never been impressed with electric showers
In addition I installed the feed for the hot water cylinder a little higher in the main tank so that if the tank runs dry the hot supply fails first.
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I'm with Stuartli on this one.
We have a Main Mersey multipoint gas water heater running on mains water pressure (loft tank head preasure too low) suppling a Gainsborough thermostatic shower unit. The water heater is 20 years old, the shower unit is 7 years old. Hot water all day if required. Downside is only one mains connected tap can be used at once.
It's nice to know Main are still making multipoints.
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>>Downside is only one mains connected tap can be used at once.>>
We can use a couple of taps but slightly slower flow on each.
The reason we got the multipoint originally (seems you have the same model) was that a 3Kw immersion heater, despite being fully lagged, was costing a fortune to run.
The multipoint dramatically reduced the bills as well as deliver hot water at any time. It also uses mains water pressure supply.
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As a 6 year time served Plumber beginning in the 1950s and in later years primarily involved in steam systems and industrial type heating design I watched this thread with interest. Much good advice particularly the mention of Stuart Turner pumps who were always the first choice.
Henry Ks input was particularly impressive and is in my opinion the way to install a shower if possible. Everything he said was impeccable and text book with regard to maximise flow (which is different to pressure) by reducing pipe friction which is so important. A 15ft head head would give 6.5 psi static in old money which is less than half a bar but more than enough for a shower. God or physics gave us this free and should always be used whenever possible. Top marks Henry?.
Installing the feed for the DHW cylinder a little higher than other draw offs is a little gem and not widely known.
I?m not a great fan of thermostatic mixing valves and although I had to use them in institutional situations or for old people (not me) I prefer a normal mixer as DHW should never exceed 140f anyway and there is more to go wrong with them the same as modern cars. Only an opinion of course!!!
A gravity supplied shower should last mechanically indefinitely and also save energy. I had three daughters and if one spent half an hour in the shower I think the last one would be left with cold water only so Smokie has a problem there.
But of course not everyone can get the necessary head for a shower without having to use a pump so I would recommend as others have a Stuart Turner. Remembering stargazers advice that they need a little head to get them working and often a good location is behind the bath panel if possible.
My last years in the business it was all pressurised heating and hot water systems and if I were starting from scratch in my own house this is the route I would go down as all problems regarding pressure are solved.
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alvin. Thanks for your comments on my efforts.
I am just a DIYer that has read up a little on the subject.
In passing I also bent pipes wherever possible to avoid using elbows.
By far my biggest problem was trying to get a spec for the tank stand. I found absolutely none. Fearful of 50 gallons coming through the ceiling I suspect my stand is grossly over speced.
I would have liked to have installed a York/Surrey/Danzey flange in the cylinder but I thought better than disturb an old beasty. I did think about the not so good Essex flange but bottled out.
see www.watermillshowers.co.uk/pages/surrey.htm
Smokie
Some other things to consider in your revamp.
A proper shower light. Mine has a flood bulb not a spot bulb fitted plus an extractor fan.
A wide high level soap tray near eyeball height so that you do not have to turn round for the next bottle of X Factor or hunt the soap. I rant at hotels for not having this safety feature.
I am glad I have a shower waste that I can remove the strainer to extract daughters long locks.
Plus a matching ceramic hook to hang offsprings waterproof noise box.
Finally I have a proper shower squeegee to get rid of the excess water off the tiles and cut the dampness down at source.
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And to add to Henry?s wish list I do like a grab rail also. Always feel a little disorientated with soap on face with eyes closed (my wife says it?s the drink) and like the comfort of having something to hold on to.
Recently came back from France and noted some very different showers. Stopped for a week in a two hundred year old cottage near Mari St Eglise. A lovely cottage but one needed extreme dexterity to use the shower.
It was fitted off the taps on a bath tub less than three feet in length. No shower curtain. No wall bracket so one had to spray water over ones body, turn of taps to soap body, grope down and get the taps adjusted between scalding and cold to rinse down.
In hotels the following week mainly Ibis they had some superb looking mixer valves which must be very expensive but worked well.
Now a question, does anyone know of a method of removing limescale from a cast iron coloured bath. We have a 40 year old one in superb condition apart from limescale streaks. The wife has tried every bottle of gubbins from Wilkos but none of them do much. We used to remove scale from banks of steam calorifier tubes by soaking them in a tank of some type of acid which bought them back to gleamng copper but hardly practical for our needs.
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Alvin,
Regarding limescale on cast iron...is the surface finish enamelled? You could try brick acid from a builders merchant (weak HCl) but do try on a hidden area first!
StarGazer
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Thanks SG but the hidden area is difficult. And thinking about it if there was one it wouldnt have limescale on it...
Those pearls of wisdom came from the wife not me...
Is it enamelled.. I dont really know that, I suppose so because if you ever chipped a cast iron bath it was black underneath.
Were there cast iron baths enamelled and others not?.
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