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We have a Glow Worm Combi boiler (compact 100e). Recently, it has begun cycling on and off even when there is no obvious demand. This has become enough of a problem for me to turn the thing off at night, and then get up early to switch it back on manually. I don't want this situation to go on into winter!
The switch is set to summer - i.e., no CH, so only the hot water system should be active. I don't know what happens if I switch in the CH, the weather hasn't been cold yet!
When the machine cycles on, the LEDs on the front panel don't change. The one that normally lights up when you switch on a hot tap remains off.
The boiler then runs for a few seconds - sometimes just lng enough for the gas to light, and the gas lit LED comes on.
I am just looking for some pointers - obvious things to check, weaknesses of this boiler or type, and obvious rubbish* to filter out before handing over to a corgi registered type.
TIA.
Number_Cruncher
* "Yes Sir, it needs a full service and overhaul, that'll be £XXX", where really it needs a new widget, price £4.50!
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NC
Combi type boilers use a flow switch on the hot water to determine when the gas needs to be ignited to heat the hot water...this is why it takes a second or so for the HW to become warm. Once the flow switch is ON then the boiler ignites the gas and only cuts off if either the flow switch goes OFF or the small amount of water it heated up enough that the boiler thermostat cuts the boiler off.
1.It sounds as if the flow switch is failed in the ON position...boiler is lighting and heating a pipe until thermostat cuts it off, then it cools and reignites.
Do you have hard water? This can lead to premature failure of the flow switch.
or possibly
2. Does this boiler have a small stored HW supply that is kept hot to provide instantaneous HW rather than a small delay? If so then this has to be kept warm all the time, if the thermostat on this part is failing then it might ask for constant heating.
CH may be unaffected.
StarGazer
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StarGazer,
Thanks for your reply.
I am sure that our boiler doesn't have a small stored HW supply. When it is working correctly in HW only, it stays off, absolutely for many hours, until there is a demand from a HW tap.
The suggestion of a failed flow switch sounds good - our water is not aggresively hard, but not entirely soft either.
What sort of principle do the flow switches use to work?
Thanks,
Number_Cruncher
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Have you contacted Glow Worm?
www.glow-worm.co.uk/epower/gw/hepworth/sitemap.asp
There's also this brief mention of your particular boiler:
www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=10624
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Stuart,
Thanks for the link to Glow Worm - to speak to, they aren't particularly helpful, but their web page has an excellent user manual in pdf format - with a good fault finding flow chart.
The fault finding chart describes how to check out the hot water flow switch, so that will be my first test.
Cheers,
Number_Cruncher
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Just reread both of your messages, the flow switch for both CH and DHW are a diaphragm and microswitch I think.
What is confusing me is that you state that the HW demand led remains off when boiler cycles back on of its own accord.
StarGazer
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Some more information.
The flow switch behaved perfectly when checked using the continuity tester of my multimeter.
The cycling isn't consistent. It tends to happen most between 11pm and midnight, during which time, the boiler is going on and off about five times a minute. Earlier and later during the night , the boiler stays off fairly consistently. Yet, during the spurious start ups, the HW demand LED doesn't light up - but, see below for more on this subject.
In the dark last night, I took a close look at the display panel, and the LED for the HW demand is always partially lit up - during the day, you can't see it. The other LEDs on the board extinguish fully when you press the appropriate buttons. Upon HW demand, it lights up fully. This is leading me to suspect that there is a fault on the control board.
£££ ->> KerrChing!!
Number_Cruncher
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NC,
Does sound like a dodgy pcb, not that ususual.
Try these people
www.cetltd.com/default.asp
They repair and refurbish all types of pcb parts, one of their people posts on uk.diy as 'raden' and often gives useful info by phone or email, he might be able to advise if this is a common problem with this particular boiler.
If you have a service agreement if might be covered for a replacement, otherwise a refurbished and repaired one might be cheaper.
Stargazer
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1) When packing for a holiday should aerosols (deodorants etc) be packed in hand luggage or hold luggage????
2) Is there any way of 'shrinking' a leather purse which has stretched to the point that, on opening, it proceeds to drop credit/debit/store cards on the floor! Would dampening it then drying it damage the leather??
I thank you for your help!
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If at first you do succeed, try not to look astonished
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1/ Hand luggage, some cargo holds are unpressurised and it may explode. Having said that we have done it and they never have. Safest thing to do is not to take any.
2/ Nope. Sure making leather wet will shrink it, but when it dries out it dries out all the oils, so you have to put leather feed and oils back in it again, whereupon it goes all stretchy and limp again.
Buy a new leather purse on your trip!
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packing for a holiday
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here is the full official baa advice
"Security control and boarding
To reach the departure lounges you will pass through security control where your boarding card will be inspected and you and your hand luggage screened. You need to remove jackets and coats and place them with your hand luggage (including handbags, cameras, mobile phones, computers, calculators, keys, coins, etc) in trays or on the belt to pass through the x-ray machine.
Passengers pass through an archway metal detector, which is safe for pregnant women, however, if you have any concerns you can request a hand search. Passengers with pacemakers should request a hand search, and wheelchair users will also have a hand search. Hand searches can take place in a private, screened area for the comfort of our passengers.
Some passengers and/or flights may be selected for additional searches at security control or at the departure gate; including hand searches supported by explosives trace detection equipment. Passengers are chosen at random for these searches ? please don't be concerned or offended. We appreciate your cooperation in helping us ensure the safety and security of all passengers.
Packing tips
Help us reduce the queues at security control by ensuring that you do not pack prohibited items in your hand luggage or hold baggage. The following items must not be packed in your hand luggage. They must be placed in your hold baggage. If these items are discovered in your hand luggage they will be confiscated and not returned:
Scissors (except where both blades are round-ended or less than three centimetres).
Razor blades (razors that have the blade set into a plastic moulding are allowed, but razors that can be opened and the razor blade removed are prohibited).
Knives with blades of any length.
Household cutlery (spoons are permitted).
Hypodermic needles (unless required for medical reasons, for which proof will be required).
Tools (including multi-tools and penknives).
Catapults.
Corkscrews.
Walking/hiking poles.
Fireworks.
Toy/replica guns (metal or plastic).
Sporting bats.
Darts.
Billiard, snooker or pool cues.
For safety reasons, there are a number of items that cannot be taken onto any aircraft, so please do not pack them in any luggage (hand or hold):
Flammable liquids and solids.
Oxidisers such as bleaching powders.
Organic peroxides.
Tear gas devices or any gas cylinders.
Infectious substances such as live virus materials.
Wet-cell car batteries.
Magnetrons.
Instruments containing mercury.
Instruments containing magnets.
Fireworks.
Non-safety matches.
Fire lighters, lighter fuel, paints, thinners.
Poisons, arsenic, cyanide, weedkiller.
Radioactive materials, acids, corrosives, alkalis, caustic soda.
Creosote, quicklime, oiled paper.
Vehicle fuel system components which have contained fuel.
Connections
On certain routes you may be required to collect your baggage for extra screening before checking in for your connecting flight. Please help us by allowing plenty of time between your flights and following our packing guidelines.
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Re deodorants - what about the roll-on or solid block types?
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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"Infectious substances such as live virus materials."
they never seem to want to take my snotty hanky
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I have just spoken with our shipping supervisor who has all the qualifications IATA regulations at his fingertips and he too advises that it is generally safer not to take aerosols on an aircraft at all.
By the way - despite the regulations it is still entirely up to the airline what they do or do not take.If they say it doesn't go then it is your hard luck.
I usually just buy a can of deodorant when I get wherever I am going or take the stick or roll on type.
I would also point out that cigarette lighters are another problem item - I reckon to be be as up to date with these regulations as anybody but since April they have been a prohibited item and I had mine removed from my person at Atlanta airport ( after I had flown) despite the fact that it had gone through security at Gatwick with no problem.
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I once tried to baord a flight with 2 ciggie lighters in my pocket. I was only allowed one, and they confiscated the other. I could not see the rationale for that, but thought it unwise to argue!
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BA says
www.britishairways.com/travel/bagrest/public/en_gb
So pay attention. Cooking oil for you diesel types is restricted as is Christmas crackers.
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Cardiac pacemakers -????
Sorry mate - you'll have to take that out of your chest and put it in the hold.......
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Hi guys - I've just spent a very enoyable and stress relieving day chopping down then up some conifers in our back garden using my new chainsaw. It came with 2 containers of oil to lubricate the chain and I've already used one up. I've no problem buying more but could I've got litres of unused (but cheap) multigrade engine oil in my garage which I'd like to find a use for. Would it be suitable or too thick?
If not usable for this purpose what else could I use the oil for.
Many thanks all.
PS - I've read the manual and safety notes very well but would appreciate any general advice on chainsaw do's/don'ts. It's a 2000w electric version.
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DON'T USE ENGINE OIL!
Chainsaw chain lube is much thicker and usually vegetable based (you think of the amount of oil that gets left on forest floors when the loggers are in there). If you go to a proper farm and garden machinery store you'll get 5l for around £12 or so and that will last a good while.
It's vitally important when using any chainsaw, electric or petrol, to make sure the chain is well lubricated, sharp and is cutting evenly. The debris should be little chips of wood, not sawdust. If you start to notice the chainsaw making heavy weather of it, the chain is likely to be dry, blunt, or both.
Sharpening a chainsaw chain is simple if you know how but can be deadly if performed incorrectly. £12-£15 will get you a replacement chain. A worn chain will try and pull to one side which puts pressure on the drawbar, which heats up, which increases the oil usage.... before you know it you have a snapped chain embedded in what used to be your right leg. When changing the chain you should put the bar back on upside down to how it was originally installed to even up the wear on the bar. If the sides of the bar show signs of flaring, throw it away before it breaks a chain.
As a minimum you MUST wear steel toecapped boots when using even the smallest chainsaw if you value your extremeties. Read all the safety notes in the book and don't ignore any of them. I've seen what even a 12" bar saw can do when it goes wrong and it's not pretty.
Frankly I think these things should be banned for retail sale. They are deadly, deadly, deadly. Perversely, you can't hire one in many places without showing the appropriate licence but Joe Blogs can buy one in any retail outlet. Go figure that one out.
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ps. Sorry about blowing you out down 'ere in rural Dorset. Haven't had access to the old email account for a few weeks now so any mail that went there will have wandered off into a cyber black hole.
HF has my "real" email if you need it.
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Thanks for all the good advice AB - won't be using the saw again for a good while now as all the big work's done but I take your point about the safety issues. That thing went through my trees almost like a knife through butter!
Will source some proper oil as you suggest.
Pity about Dorset, probably won't be down that way again 'til next year but if you're ever stuck in a hotel up this way and at a loose end just give us a call.
Will chase HF for your e.mail but that could take years :) so I'll ask DD to pass mine onto you. (Done, Hugo)
Take care and thanks again. T & P.
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better to use the proper oil but in a push you could use multigrade,as for protection buy yourself a full kit with trousers,proper boots and full face protection visor,if you have a vice in your workshop grip the bar in it to sharpen the chain so as you can sharpen both sides at the same cutting angle,keeps it cutting straight
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"went through my trees almost like a knife through butter"
Gave me a fright - read trees as "knees" for a moment - hope you've got those kevlar trousers etc. Chain saws should only be available for use by pros IMHO - they really frighten me, especially when used by my neighbour's son on a summer's day in his trainers, shorts, t-shirt and baseball cap - 20 ft up a tree hanging on with one arm and using the chain saw in the other. "Got it from B&Q, brilliant in't it"
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better to use the proper oil but in a push you could use multigrade,as for protection buy yourself a full kit with trousers,proper boots and full face protection visor,if you have a vice in your workshop grip the bar in it to sharpen the chain so as you can sharpen both sides at the same cutting angle,keeps it cutting straight
There's a trader on ebay I've used quite often for pukka chainsaw kit. She does complete sets of Husqvarna safety gear (boots, helmet with visor, gloves and trousers) for around £150. We got the Husqvarna 350 from her and use her for replacement chains, bars and other bits of logging "stuff". Look for items sold by Kaaz24
For those that don't know (and defender clearly does know) Chainsaw protective clothing is not about stopping penetration as this still leaves a potentially out-of-control saw buzzing at full throttle. It's about stopping the chain from spinning. The padded area of the clothing contains thousands of strands of fibre that will jam and stall even the most powerful saws when the chain breaks through the outer fabric. Like a nylon spiders web.
If you do get a sharpening kit (around £10) the advice to use a vice is spot on. Take the bar off the saw, clamp it in the vice (don't crush it!) and put the chain on it. Makes sharpening a lot easier than if you just leave the bar on the saw. Get the right file size for your saw and check what angle you should be sharpening it at. When sharpening the chain it is recommended you inspect the bar. Make sure there are no burrs on the bar and that the chain guides aren't flared.
As previously mentioned, whenever you have cause to sharpen or replace a chain, put the bar back on the other way up from the way it was previously installed to ensure even wear.
Most horti & agri colleges run courses in chainsaw use that will lead to you getting various certifications, the most common being for cross-cutting (logging up trees that are already down). Worth the effort if you plan to use a chainsaw from time to time.
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We had a tree surgeon take down a 50ft wild cherry a couple of years ago when it had overstayed its welcome and half way through the job he turned up with a new chainsaw. I asked what had happened to the old one and he said: "I buy cheap saws and replace them every week. It's safer than repairing them, because there's never enough time and you just think 'Oh, it will be alright.'"
He sent in the second-cheapest quote for the job.
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does anybody know of a source for a small quantity of clear, thin, heatshrink tube ?
(It's for identifying some AAA batteries - the dymo labels keep coming unstuck)
ta
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does anybody know of a source for a small quantity of clear, thin, heatshrink tube ? (It's for identifying some AAA batteries - the dymo labels keep coming unstuck) ta
Won't the heating process affect the batteries? Or don't I fully understand your question? I use a permanent felt tip marker for identifying the date that I have fitted batteries in my smoke alarms.
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L\'escargot.
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Maplin
www.maplin.co.uk
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First place I looked.
But I want clear and they only appear to sell black, or if they sell any other colour than black, they do a good job of concealing the fact.
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Re MaplinBut I want clear and they only appear to sell black, or if they sell any other colour than black, they do a good job of concealing the fact.
My hard copy catalogue says black only.
RS - Radio Spares does other colours but does not seem to have clear
rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchAction.do
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Try a model shop that sells remote control cars, aircraft etc. Heatshrink in all shapes and colours is used in R/c modelling.
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Bolton model centre tomorrow then - not been there for ages !
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only up to 6.4mm, and an AAA battery is at least 10mm !
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I think the heatshrink question might be barking up the wrong tree, so I'm going to re-phrase the question.
I have a number of recharegable AAA batteries, which I have marked into sets with dymo labels, but the labels keep coming off, and putting sticky tape over it seems to last longer, but does come off eventually.
The batteries are used, amongst other things, caving lamps, torches and cameras, and are transported underground in an ammo tin, so (a), they will get wet and (b) paint/tippex tends to scrape off.
Dymo labels and thinwall clear heatshrink would seem to be the ideal solution, but do you have any better ideas ?
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Mike - why do you want to mark them. I have an in car charger for AA and AAA cells. I just keep them in the charger until I want to use them.
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
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It's useful to distinguish charged/part discharged/discharged sets. If you end up having to change batteries underground then (a) you want to keep it as simple as possible and (b) your probably doing it because one light has failed, so you want it to be even simpler !
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Not sure why/how you want to mark yours but I had a similar problem marking the various AA & AAA rechargeables I use in my 3 digital cameras so charged/partially used/discharged ones don't get mixed up. I found permanent marker wasn't so I've decided to engrave the base (-ve) end of each battery with a letter and/or number to identify the pairs. HTH.
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Dymo labels and thinwall clear heatshrink would seem to be the ideal solution, but do you have any better ideas ?
Permanent felt tip pen? I have a Berol which claims to be "Heavy Duty" and "Waterproof".
--
L\'escargot.
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Why not just use three or four different colours of heatshrink to identify different sets?
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Why not just use three or four different colours of heatshrink to identify different sets?
They don't always get used as 'sets' - GPS uses 2, flashgun uses 4, PDA uses 1, reserve caving lamps use either 1 or 3 !
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mmm - I seem to remember someone in the aerospace industry claiming they had super-dooper indelible pens that could resist thermonuclear attack and the invasion of the body snatchers.
The trouble would be (I think) will the legibilty of my scrawly handwriting on something as small as an AAA.
besides the only source for borrowing a supoer-dooper felt pen would be the same guy who has so far failed to get me the heat-shrink tube he said he had loads of....
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Mr Golf with a boot
This company sells clear heatshrink.
www.shrinktek.co.uk/prditm.asp?PrdSID=1
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And these
cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink2.htm
"Clear heat shrink" in google and these two were on the first page.
Must try harder, as my school reports always said.
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The Americans did develop a pen that would write upside down in weightless coditions for their astronauts at a cost of millions of pounds....The Russians used a pencil.
I am sure that both RS and Farnells will be able to provide you with clear heatshrink
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I don't want to douse the fires of enthusiasm... but I will anyway.
I think that if you do manage to source some heat shrink of sufficient diameter to go roung AAA batteries it may make the total diameter too large to fit into the battery compartments of things like cameras. Even an increase of 1mm (2 x 0.5mm) would cause problems in some equipment.
P.S.
When your existing batteries are due for replacement get them from different manufactures with different colour cases...
Regards,
John R @ Work :¬)
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The correct (but rather expensive) solution is to use a cable label making machine.
Designed to print sequences of alphas/numbers on a sticky label approx 1 inch wide, guaranteed to still be sticking to cables after 20 years under a computer room floor.
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Why not put two bands of electrician's tape round them top and bottom. As one is half used, take a strip off. When dead, take the other off.
Benefits:
you can instantly see the status of the battery in even terrible light
you can feel the status of a battery in pitch black by feeling for the ridges of the tape
Drawbacks
width of battery increased
may be a bit fiddly tring to get tape off
Cheers,
V
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I think that if you do manage to source some heat shrink of sufficient diameter to go roung AAA batteries it may make the total diameter too large to fit into the battery compartments of things like cameras. Even an increase of 1mm (2 x 0.5mm) would cause problems in some equipment.
Yep, thats why I just want a small amount, preferably of thinwall, to play with. Links to sites that need a minimum order of 30 metres or require postage from the states that costs more than the batteries ain't getting me anywhere at the moment ;-)
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Go to Ebay
Item number: 7183894850
Look at the other items available includes CLEAR in following diams
1.2 1.6 2.4 3.2 4.8 6.4 9.5 12.7 19.0
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pmh (was peter)
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www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010...1
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Mike Farrow
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Ah, sorry, still in 25 metre reel, I thought 1+, 5+ etc was in metres!
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Mike Farrow
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Something better from the same site:
www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010...2
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Mike Farrow
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Thanks Mike
looks like I'll splash out £1.40 in the interests of research ! - or possibly more, there is some very interesting stuff on that site
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there is some very interesting stuff on that site
Yes, it is useful. I use it in situations where Maplin don't stock it or RS want you to order a few dozen at a time!
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Mike Farrow
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I use quite a few rechargeables. I keep the fully charged ones with a rubber band round them. The discharged or partially discharged are loose.
nice and easy!
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I have finally managed to stop smoking after 15 years. I am having problems with what to do with myself when I need a ciggy. Some have suggested going for a walk and others to get a drink of coffee. Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance
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If it were me I'd go for a ciggy...which is why I've never successfully stopped!!
Well done for doing it, I hope someone comes along with a helpful suggestion.
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Not a smoker myself so can't give you any personal advise but I recall a few months ago someone else asked a similar question and Mark(RLBS) amongst others responded with lots of useful advice on kicking the habit - try using the "forum search".
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"Not a smoker myself so can't give you any personal advise but I recall a few months ago someone else asked a similar question and Mark(RLBS) amongst others responded with lots of useful advice on kicking the habit"
That 'someone else' was me and Mark's advice was very useful. I have managed to kick the habit but it's been extremely difficult at times. Evenings and weekends are the hardest. I still have incredible cravings for a quick smoke and I feel it's a very fine balance at the moment. I am sure that if some unpleasant event occured such as redundancy etc. it might push me over again. But for now I have remained off the fags and I try to do as much sport as possible to take my mind off the cravings. I also try to avoid pubs and restaurants where there is smoke. Unfortunately in France this can be very hard. I've also had to get my Renault thoroughly and professionally valeted to eradicate the tobacco smells.
I take each day as it comes but for now I am smoke-free.
Good luck.
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similar question and Mark(RLBS) amongst others responded with lots of useful advice on kicking the habit - try using the "forum search".
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=t&t=26...6
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Thanks DD but that wasn't the exact post I remembered.....
With Xileno's tip off, I've finally managed to find it - it's in IVAQ Vol 80 "Giving up Smoking"
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=32819&...f
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I stopped in March, or April, somewhere round there - 20 a day habit.
I got some packs of chewing gum in. (low sugar). Stuffed one of those in my gob when it all got too much.
The chewing gum is gone now, but there are still times, maybe twice a week, when I would kill for a ciggy.
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A friend used a dummy cigarette, which had some "magic" ingredient. It worked well, he still uses the empty holder like a dummy!
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Well done BB!
Point 1. you don't NEED a ciggy.
Try not to replace one habbit with another. It's 3 years & 9 months and counting for me after nearly 30 years of 20 a day for me and I still get an occasional craving,
I just take 2 or 3 deep breaths and the craving dissapears...
Regards,
John R @ Home
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If nothing else will stop you this story might....
Apologies if this shocks. This is not an opinion but an accurately recounted fact, with a point.
MiL used to smoke around 20 a day when I first knew SWMBO.
Inlaws became very good friends with a couple, the lady who by pure chance was the aunt of her SiL - whether that's relevent to the main point I don't know but it could be.
This lady (a smoker) went to her doctor feeling unwell. She had tests carried out and was told she was terminally ill with lung cancer.
The poor lady went from a perfectly active and apparently healthy middle aged woman to dead within a matter of months.
MiL was so scared by this that she quit overnight - and I mean "quit" and "overnight". That's 20 odd a day to Zero - fags in the bonfire etc no turning back
MiL is not especially strong willed. The sheer shock at seeing someone close to her just go like that was enough.
Good luck with breaking the habit.
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If nothing else will stop you this story might.... Apologies if this shocks. This is not an opinion but an accurately recounted fact, with a point. This lady (a smoker) went to her doctor feeling unwell. She had tests carried out and was told she was terminally ill with lung cancer. The poor lady went from a perfectly active and apparently healthy middle aged woman to dead within a matter of months.
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Identical to the story of my neighbour and good friend.
Now my brother has just had a lung removed and is having chemo.
Things looking better but no chance of him ever returning to his job or any other job.
Good luck with breaking the habit.
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I am an avid non smoker and I understand it is very difficult but think of those you want to enjoy the future with.
My best wishes for your efforts.
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BB,
I posted this about 2 months ago:-
"I used to have a longstanding 40+ a day habit and I gave up with the aid of a hypnotist. The basis of the treatment was that he made my subconscious mind believe that I was a non-smoker. Whilst you can put thoughts into your conscious mind you need a hypnotist to put thoughts into your subconcious mind. The process involved 3 sessions of about 1 hour each. After I had become used to the hypnotist's voice the rest of the course was by tape recordings. What really surprised me was that after the first session I had no withdrawal symptoms whatsoever. I can't imagine any other method being as easy as that."
If you get serious withdrawal symptoms I recommend consulting a hypnotist. But I hope you can conquer it on your own. Good luck.
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L\'escargot.
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What to do when you get the urge.....?
Go on the internet and google "lung cancer smoking". Look at the medical pictures and read the forums. VERY reinforcing!
Stopped me 21 months ago.
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Thanks all for your posts. It is only two weeks since I had my last ciggy, but it feels like an eternity!
The first week were spent on holiday in Majorca and to be honest it did not affect me that much, it was only when I got home and started the routine again that it hurt. It is getting better every day, but occasionally I have a really bad time when all I want to do is cry (or smoke!)
It is good to see that many BR's have quit recently and that in itself helps me out a great deal.
One thing though, the thought of having to give up again has been the major factor for me for not smoking these last two weeks. I just don't think I could do it again!
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I stopped almost four years ago. I was on about 20 a day but once I decided I was going to stop I cut down to under 10 and then went onto patches for 2 weeks. I've never smoked since!
I had cravings all the time, but mainly at the times I would normally smoke (after meals - in the car on the way to work etc), but if you change your routine so that you are busy at those times then you don't notice the cravings as much. Over time they will happen less and less often and eventualy you'll get them once every couple of months.
I still get the urge now and again. I recently moved home and found the whole experience VERY stressful. I almost lit up again during that process, but I'm happy to say that my Fiance talked me out of it. I now owe it to her to talk her out of her 20 a day habit.
If you stick at it you'll end up saving the best part of £2000 every year. And it will only get more expensive.
Good luck with it. It's worth it in the long run.
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What I'm going to say is deeply unfashionable. All you have between you and smoking is willpower. I gave up ten years ago and I believe the secret of my success is just that at the start I decided that I was NEVER going to smoke a cigarette again. I think it's easy to get stuck on strategies and tips, but the important thing is that each time you use your willpower, you strengthen it a little bit more.
I still get the occasional craving and I hear the little voice saying "just one, you'll be fine". The secret is just never to listen.
Good luck.
V
PS. How to deal with the people who think it's funny to offer you a cigarette. You have my permission to punch them in the eye.
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In Backroom parlance what on earth is a troll?
--
L\'escargot.
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In Backroom parlance what on earth is a troll?
One who posts on a message board merely to provoke a reaction, regardless of whether or not they actually agree with what they are saying. One who is not interested in the messageboard itself but wants to be noticed. Attention-seeking, if you will.
For example, an easy troll on this forum would be to say that Mondeo TDCIs are rubbish and anyone who likes them smells of cheese.
Usually trolling is not personal and is designed specifically to anger or provoke reaction from as many people as possible - like going to a Christian web site and stating that Jesus was obviously gay.
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Life is complex; it has real and imaginary parts.
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'Mondeo TDCIs are rubbish and anyone who likes them smells of cheese.'
I'd noticed that as well. Is it the polyester socks ?
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In Backroom parlance what on earth is a troll?
>>
seems a dangerous ( rhetorical? ) question to ask. why do i say that? just look at what happened last time someone asked this question.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=31492&...f
so i would suggest your best bet is to ask google instead.
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Don't rise to the bate - just ignore him or use the button to report it. We'll take it from there.
Hugo - BR moderator
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I currently have an electric Flymo Hover mower. It cuts the grass fine but my only problem is that I often end up with lots of grass being blown onto the path and garden at the edge of the lawn. Would this happen with any lawnmower or is this reflective of the "hover" system.
For instance, would the attached
tinyurl.com/dxgyo
blow the grass out the same way? I am thinking it shouldn't but does anyone know for sure?
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In my experience it's only hovermowers that blow the grass off the lawn. Other mowers may leave a lot lying about but you'll only have to rake the grass to clean it up - it shouldn't be all over your patio and borders as well. I could be wrong - I've not had many lawnmowers.
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Life is complex; it has real and imaginary parts.
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Ditched my hover a couple of years back but I remember a "selling feature" on the outside of the box was that it "recycled" fine grass clippings over the lawn as you mowed.
My interpretation, which seems about right, was that they hadn't worked out a decent way of containing the clippings...
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Bobby,
The Flymo Venturer 370 in your link is a newer model to the Flymo that I have. Guess what, it also blows grass over the path and garden at the edge of the lawn too!!
I *think* it's a characteristic of a rotory bladed mower, regardless of whether it's a hover mower or has wheels as the grass is centrifugally thrown outwards as it cuts.
A cylinder mower might suit your needs better as the grass is thrown forwards into the collection box (or backwards if a rear collection box is fitted).
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A cylinder mower might suit your needs better as the grass is thrown forwards into the collection box (or backwards if a rear collection box is fitted).
We have both a petrol Mountfield rotary and an electric Qualcast rotary and neither normally blows grass outwards. The petrol does if the collecting box is absolutely full. So it could be a characteristic of hover mowers. Unless your lawn is fine grass and doesn't have a lot of bumps and you don't let it grow too long before you cut it I think you'll find a rotary is best. Even a petrol Suffolk Punch cylinder mower wouldn't tackle our lawn!
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L\'escargot.
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The Mountfield with the Briggs and Stratton "EASY STARTING SYSTEM" (or something similar) does exactly what it says on the box!
I expected it would be the same as all the old ones, ie a pig to start!
Dont be conned into to having to pay 3 times the price for a Honda.
Grass collection works well and until it fills up the grass box.
--
pmh (was peter)
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The Mountfield with the Briggs and Stratton "EASY STARTING SYSTEM" (or something similar) does exactly what it says on the box!
On my HP470 it says "Reliable Starting" but nothing could be further from the truth unless the weather (or the engine) is warm. On most occasions I have to resort to using Bradex Easystart ~ THEN it starts first pull. Otherwise it won't start at all. Shortly after I bought it a diaphragm in the carburettor pulled out from between the flanges at one point, which necessitated a visit to the local Briggs and Stratton agent for a new diaphragm. They told me that they had known even brand new (unused) Briggs and Stratton engines to require a new diaphragm!
--
L\'escargot.
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Bobby,
I think this is a characteristic of most rotary hover mowers - I have a Flymo (300 or 330? can't remember) which has a collection box. It sucks the grass cuttings from an opening at the back of the mower, up into the box. This works very well whilst you're mowing the "middle" of the lawn.
However when you get to the edges and the mower overlaps the path, the differing surfaces mean that a lot more air escapes out of the "path" side of the mower and grass cuttings along with it. I've found that by cutting from the path in to the middle avoids this to a large extent. I still end up having to sweep the path though.
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HAppens on my B&D rotary mower too (not a hover tho). Its because they rely on a grass skirt round the edges to seal them up. soon as the skirt gets broken along one side - out it comes.
To be fair the B&D only thows out a little bit.
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I have a Harry rotary and it doesn't chuck stuff out at the sides other than when the box is full. I have no connection with the company whatsoever but I'd recommend them to you
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Hover mowers are universally despised by the horticultural industry in general and the Institute of Groundsmanship in particular. I've yet to see a decent lawn remain a decent lawn following the attention of one of these instruments of satan. A good Rotary is designed to not only cut but to create an upwards airflow that spirals outwards towards the exit chute. Hovers are compromised in this as they have to blow air downwards to maintain the hover.
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Alan, thats the most passionate I have seen you write about any topic on here!!! Surprised you didn't arrange for the swear filter to take the word Hover out !! :)
Thanks for your suggestions guys. i think the general consensus is that for the problem of sideways grass cuttings, the rotary is better than the hover but maybe not the end answer?
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Last night and tonight we have tried to watch Freeview and have no sound on any channels though picture remains perfect. Have checked all connections, have checked all settings (sound is not muted etc) and cannot find owt wrong. Anybody else got this problem? Or is my Freeview box thing done for? The transmitter we receive from is Waltham on the Wolds (border of Rutland/Lincs near Grantham)
Any suggestions
Thanks
Phil
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Phil, We have three of these boxes around the house. Two Sony and one Thomson.
Very rarely any one of these have played up in one way or another. Usually taking the batteries out of the remote control on the Thomson for five minutes cured this one.
On the Sony switching power off to it for a period has fixed this one.
These remedies were taken from the instruction book when all else had failed.
Have a look in your book and there may be something there.
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Thanks Alvin - we (?) got it working again, tried what you suggested and the unplugging bit seemed to work on about the third attempt - but not before we got sound back without picture and had a spell with just a totally blank screen. Handbook was pretty useless compared to your suggestion!!
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Re SjB original question in no 86
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=34462
A bit late but as promised.
The company concerned is www.waterking.co.uk
They appear to be well established and have a range of water treatment products. I only picked up their leaflet.
From their leaflet.
Specifically mentions differences just for-
Vented hot water system with a cold water header tank.
Treated water delivered to a cold water storage tank will lose the effect of the treatment depending on water quality, this can happen very quickly. For this reason coldwater is best treated AFTER a storage tank.
For best results we recommend two units are fitted, one on the main inlet to the house, the rising main, and one on the cold pipe that runs from the cold storage tank to the bottom of the hot cylinder.
If you decide to fit only a single unit, then you will get best value from fitting it on the cold down service. The signal is transmitted through the water and will treat all the water in the storage tank. If you have copper pipes that are cross bonded to the rising main, the taps fed from it should be adequately treated as well.
A single unit fitted on a copper rising main can give a satisfactory result.
Cost is £110 inc vat
For Combi boilers just one unit is required.
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Having been bowled over by a school production at the end of the summer term, our company would like to buy the school some sound equipment for future productions. Ideally we would like this to be a surprise. What kit would we need to buy to make a complete usable set? I'm thinking of half a dozen radio mics, and presumably an amplifier, but is there anything else to think about? I'd prefer an impartial reply from here before contacting suppliers.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Rebecca,
You do realise radio mics are very pricy don't you?
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Adam
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Rebecca
It sounds like your company is very benevolent and also the thought of a surprise gift is a nice idea.
However, might I suggest you find a govenor of that school and have a confidential chat with them. They can raise the issue of sound equipment in their next meeting and put together a proposed "shopping list".
When this amount of money is being spent, it's important to get it right, so involving someone within the school who knows what they're talking about, and what they want would be a good idea. OK so for one person at least the surprise is taken away, but you will get much closer to the mark.
I say this because SWMBO is a govenor at the local school and she has often seen well intentioned money spent by benefactors that could have served the school better with a bit of subtle communication.
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Thanks Hugo.
To muddy the waters, I am a governor of the school. It's a small independent school, privately owned by the same person who owns the company I work for. Incidentally the governor role is very different from the state sector - I am also Chair of Govs of our local Primary school - a whole different ball game! Luckily the company has been able to donate funds and IT equipment to that school too.
Since posting, it has occured to me that I can get hold of a copy of the invoice for hiring the equipment they used/need, and that should give me a better idea. But you're right - before parting with the £££s someone from school needs to be involved.
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"Since posting, it has occured to me that I can get hold of a copy of the invoice for hiring the equipment they used/need, and that should give me a better idea......"
...and you could talk at length with the copmany that provided the hire of the goods. Then you are talking to an expert as well as keeping it secret.
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