*****This Volume is now closed. Please see Volume 75, which can be found here*****
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=31678
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PC's. They now go in another Thread.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 74. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
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PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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What does "posivist" mean, please?
The phrase is used in my wife's guidelines for a medical research proposal she is writing, but we have not a clue what it accurately means. (i.e. no guesswork or deduction as this is too risky)
It doesn't figure in any of our dictionaries at home, or any on line dictionaries that we can find on the web.
Googling for "what does posivist mean?" or simply "posivist" returns a few hits, none of which are even close to what my wife's work is about, and none of which give enough help to understand the true, accurate, meaning.
TVM!
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Be useful to see it in sentence context; but my guess is a typo for positivist/ism or something similar. Unthinking use of auto correct in WP puts up lots of horrors!!
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Strangely it seems to be a type of philosophy or approach to science peculiar to the 50s and 60s.
Can that be it ? Its the only thing I can find although I struggle to think of the association.
Perhaps you can offer a little more to go on ? context or whatever ?
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As reported - it needs to be seen in its context or paragraph
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My student midwife, wife, is writing a research proposal to investigate the experiences, perceptions, and views of pregnant women with spinal cord injury.
Amongst the (greatly lacking, hence choosing this subject) material available, is a document that writes "Alongside posivist research like randomized controlled trials, are studies designed to explore different aspects of perceptions and experiences requiring the naturalistic perspective, employing methodologies such as ethnography, phenomenology, and grounded theory."
So, we deduce that it's something to do with research methodology that includes randomized controlled trials, but what, exactly, we don't know.
Thanks again,
SjB
(Unqualified Male Midwife in training, ha ha; I already know things I don't want to!)
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Seems to be a type for "positivism" as suggested earlier.
noun: the form of empiricism that bases all knowledge on perceptual experience (not on intuition or revelation)
Positivist research is "fact based" - non-positivist research includes "feelings, perception". This would fit in with the narrative you quote.
Good luck (to both of you!)
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Yes its a typo
Positivist
A doctrine contending that sense perceptions are the only admissible basis of human knowledge and precise thought.
The application of this doctrine in logic, epistemology, and ethics.
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Many thanks for such fast responses, and the good wishes, Duchess! I'm off and running again. What a great community! :-)
Mrs SjB
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Yup best of luck Mrs SjB
I know what its like, Nicolle wants an I grade so she is doing her BSc, she got her credits following the law and ethics module, finally got the PCT to pay up so she is a full time student from Sep.
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My dictionary lists a word 'posology' from Gk 'how much';
(med) Science of doses, knowledge of exact amount of a drug, size of dose etc., which should be administered to a patient.
I'm not sure if a posologist could then be described as posivist or whether it makes sense in this context. The medical term makes me think it might not be a typo.
I think you'd only be certain if you looked it up in the OED in a reference library; I think it runs to about 7 or 10 volumes.
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I have to say, the entire question looks like a load of pretentious claptrap to me, and I consider myself reasonably well read. It would fit neatly into Pseuds Corner in Private Eye.
I bet if Mrs SjBs answer was as incomprehensible and vague as the question, she'd be failed!
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>>...I consider myself reasonably well read...I bet if Mrs SjBs answer was as incomprehensible and vague as the question, she'd be failed!
Well read, may be, but not well written, it seems!
"Mrs SjB's", please.
Homework available from www.apostrophe.fsnet.co.uk/ ;-)
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Ahhh sorry...I must have misheard - I thought she was doing midwifery, not pedantry :-)
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"Alongside posivist research like randomized controlled trials, are studies designed to explore different aspects of perceptions and experiences requiring the naturalistic perspective, employing methodologies such as ethnography, phenomenology, and grounded theory."
Only an academic, or a disciple of John Birt, could come up with that lot (complete with typo) when meaning to say that spinal cord injury is extremely painful, especially when pregnant.
Positivism from my very limited understanding is just as described by others above - but I can't see that highly valuable research on this subject needs to go down that avenue. No doubt Mrs SjB's feet are firmly on the ground (unlike the SLK-driving spider in Questions volume 73!)
Good to see the apostrophe defended! If anyone thinks it unnecessary or pedantic, I always quote the punctuation exercise set me many years ago by an O-level examiner with (just) a sense of humour:
Our Christmas turkey had not arrived, so we ate one of our friends.
More interesting without the apostrophe, but it might ten to break upo a beautiful friendship.
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Or even 'tend to break up'. It's getting late!
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>Christmas turkey
Easy. I saw it in a butcher's last year. Christma's turkey. (The Blessed Virgin Mary's turkey?)
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My mum was such a bad cook it was always " Christ, ma's turkey. "
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Now can anybody define Logical Positivism?
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Now can anybody define Logical Positivism?
The simplest definition I have heard is that Logical Positivism is the theory that a proposition can only have meaning if it is capable of being empirically verified (i.e. proven true or false).
So "all cars are black" would be acceptable -- it can be proven false.
But "all cars are nice" cannot be proven either way, so a logical positivist would reject the proposition as meaningless.
LP runs into problems with moral philosophy, where propositions may be neither true not false. A diehard logical positivist might use this to discount all moral philosophy, whereas a moral philosopher would probably say that this shows that LP is either useless or has a limited applicability.
(I'm not a philiosopher of any sort -- I'm sure if one appears, they'll find plenty of flaws in my simplistic understanding of it)
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tenuous link but while were in the kitchen , I need to replace an extractor. Its a chimney style hood that vents to the outside- only somethings not right with it of late and it appears to be blowing back (some ducting melted inside possibly )
Anyway what I'd like to know is replacing an extractor an easy diy job or is it best to call someone in ? are there regulations that have to be followed (near gas fitting etc). I cant even get to the mountings !
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Check both the installation instructions for the hob (if gas) and extractor unit, there will be a minimum height above a gas hob that the extractor unit must be fitted.
A replacement may or may not have the hole through the wall in the same place
Do you have a fused connection unit to isolate the extractor unit...if so turn it off here as well as on the unit itself BEFORE investigating further. It may just be a blockage in the vent or a jammed flap on the exterior wall.
StarGazer
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With Hob extractors a degree of disassembly of the unit is required to get to the wall mounting screws. Almost certainly the filter plate and light unit will have to come out (this is the bit directly above the hob where the fumes go) to get up inside the unit. The chimney thing may have to come apart as well - the fittings may be there (chimneys normally clip off)
Before all this - Have you changed the filters? There will probably be a fume filter (charcoal) and a fat filter (a fibre sheet)
Before taking unit apart - find its mains feed and isolate it. It could be on the cooker spur
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"...fused connection unit to isolate the extractor unit."
I second that, isolate the electricity before doing anything with it.
Also, they have grease filters which need to be cleaned or/and replaced regularly. It might just be a blocked filter stopping the fan working. The grease condenses and congeals when it hits cold air; the filter should remove most of it from the extract air stream. Commercial filters are usually a wire mesh thing that can be cleaned in a dishwasher. Don't run the extractor without the filters. Domestic recirculating (no ducts to outside) hoods usually have disposable carbon filters.
Whilst its dismantled, have a look inside the extract ducts as well and ensure they're clean. If the grease is allowed to accumulate, it can be a fire hazard. With an ignition source below and hot air being blown across it, they can go like a blast furnace. Commercial kitchen extract units are a regular source of serious fires.
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I was once asked by a relative to have a look at an extractor that had been fitted by her husband and did not seem to work. After removing the cover, what did I find?
The filter, in a plastic bag with the instructions!
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Afternoon all,
I going to buy a new phone. A Sony Ericsson something or other. Now. The place where I'm buying from has 2 types of recommended headsets.The official Sony Ericsson one (which is the preferred one ) or a Jabra BT something - it has a 2 in it somewhere.
Now - the Sony Ericsson one is 70 quid which seems a tad excessive as I could get a car kit installed for that. The Jabra one is "only" £35.
My question is, is the Jabra headset ok? Personally I've never heard of them myself but I'm not really a phone man - as long as it does the job, I'm happy.
Cheers,
--
Adam
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I have the jabra BT200. It is to my mind the most comfortable and less "delboyish" of the BT headsets.
Has worked faultlessly with my Nokia 6310i since september last. Lasts at least 4 days on a charge.
BobbyG has one too.
www.jabra.com/JabraCMS/EM/EN/MainMenu/Products/Wir...0
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Good enough for me.
Cheers RF.
--
Adam
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And who would have thought, some 35 years after Star treck, we would all be walking around with a cordless thing in our ear like Leutenant Uhuru.
"open the hailing frequencies"
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You bored as well today RF? You'll never guess what I have to do - an assignment on the positivistic and interpretive approaches!
What a coincidence!
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Adam
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Better late than never....
Second RF's comments on the Jabra BT200, I've had mine IIRC, for just over 12 months and its always worked perfectly with my Nokia 6310i.
I would imagine the BT250 it even better - it won a recent Auto mag* headset review (of which, the BT200 was last year's winner).
IMO any headset is going to make you look like a "numpty" - so you might as well choose the one that works best.
* the mag's name eludes me - it's a weekly in the "Autocar" format but more consumer focused. I'm sure the name will come back to me as soon as I hit the "post" button!
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I have the Jabra-BT250. Works fine and does what it says on the tin. 10 day standby, and 8 hrs talktime.
I *think* it's now superseeded with the BT250V, at least it is where I got mine from. www.mobilefun.co.uk . btw the only difference with the V model is 8 days standby, and 7 hrs talktime and it has a vibrate feature.
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That doesn't bother me. As long as it would last a day, I'm happy.
Thanks for the advice.
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Adam
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I only charge mine up every 2 weeks, but obviously it depends on how long you're talking on it rather than it being on standby.
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I'd use it soley in the car so it wouldn't get much use every day.
The same phone is is Costco for £120 with headset (unnamed headset). Do I take the chance and hope it's a good one (I'll be going to Costco later) or get the Jabra?
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Adam
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or get the Jabra?
sup to you me ole fruit, depends on how much of a numpty you want to look. In my opinion the Jabra design is the least numpty looking.
The 250v now comes in less numpty black.
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I am a numpty though. Would the Jabra have the effect of decreasing my numptiness?
I'll have a think about it en route.
Thanks again for the help
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Adam
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"I am a numpty though. Would the Jabra have the effect of decreasing my numptiness?"
Alas Adam, nothing...............................
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"I am a numpty though. Would the Jabra have the effect of decreasing my numptiness?" Alas Adam, nothing...............................
Aw, RF, don't leave the poor lad without hope.
It's only a small step, but wouldn't it help a bit if he took a chainsaw to the back of his car?
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It's only a small step, but wouldn't it help a bit if he took a chainsaw to the back of his car?
Despite looking for one, I must confess I have never seen a booted Focus (must be popular!).
However, I do think the booted MkII Mondeo looks better than the hatch, so is that a guide?
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Join the numpty club frostie.
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RF and Adski, which definition of numpty are you using here?
Google throws up a few contradictory ones, e.g.
wiki.bonsaitalk.com/index.php/Numpty
www.btinternet.com/~george.williamson/numpty1.htm
tinyurl.com/c2t7u
and www.urbandictionary.com offers several
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All of them will do, but I like this one
Someone who cannot figure out how to open a Jaguar using the manafacturer's key.
When the car is more intelligent than the driver.
Mike you are a complete numpty, take it back to where you bought it from and tell them you are too thick to drive it..
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Where to begin.
Firstly - driving up the road before. What do I see in the distance but a car identical to mine in every way. As it rolls by, they flash their lights and wave (I was in disbelief so never did it back). You know what that means? That means that my car is a classic that everyone looks up to in order to be like me.
Secondly - NW - you have far too much time on your hands. I say you divert your efforts into helping me with some coursework which is in for Friday. Makes far better use of your talents.
By the way, I would have to say I am the first definition ;-)
--
Adam
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Oh - and Operation Phone is now on another phase. I am sorely tempted by a contract now which opens up a whole host of other phones.
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Adam
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Adam, dependent on what network your friends are on, I find the deals on O2's website very impressive, especially number of free texts.
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Most are on Orange Bobby. However, I never thought of trying the 02 website. I'll give it a shot now.
Cheers
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Adam
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I found 02 (as then was Cellnet) dismal - very poor coverage in an Essex town where I was working and 'tricky' dealing, e.g. pay a year's rental in advance but they start taking direct debit rental again after 6 months 'but we will give you 6 months vouchers at the year end'. No mention of that in the adverts!
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Join the numpty club frostie.
Does that mean I have to sit next to Adam?
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Sadly yes. But two numpties make one....very cool person.
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Adam
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Yeah, fully agree, full marks to the Jabra 250. Can do voice tags etc. Won the Auto Express review last week - might still be on their website.
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8< snip 8<
Pologirl quite rightly said further down in the replies to this question, (which I've subseqently removed):-
"(Apologies mods for the rant, I've got a vague recollection of this being a no politics thread. Feel free to delete as it wont matter after tomorrow!)"
So I have done so. DD.
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Bit OTT, don't you think? The original questions were just "how does an election work?" ones, not political. It was only my last post that turned into a late night political rant.
(Clearly the other mods don't agree with you as one of them edited my question title last night without editing the actual post.)
Doesn't matter now anyway - it's all done!
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PG,
I edited the original title. On reflection I should have stopped it there and then, rather than letting it run, as it was bound to turn into a political rant sooner or later - which it did anyway.
As you say, it doesn't matter, as it's all done.
One final thing, if you wish to discuss how this site is moderated, then please do so by email. It's not as if it hasn't been previously mentioned once or twice.
DD.
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Having had a few days warm weather without central heating being needed, today was cooler, and we pressed the heating 'advance' switch to manually kick it in this evening. The gas boiler ran for a minute or so, before switching off amid lots of water pipe gurgles in the proximity of the boiler as if the water had become steam. Turning the hall thermostat to max (to guarantee 'on'), pausing for half an hour, and repeating gave the same result.
I therefore suspected the mid way valve, and lo and behold, typing the ACL part number (679H340 3OLO) in to Google returns someone who appears to have had the same problem, and it was the valve at fault: cgi.www.a1-gas.co.uk/cgi-bin/www.a1-gas.co.uk/bbma...N
Unfortunately, having drained the hot water tank by running a bath, and ensuring that the heating circuit is off, running just the hot water circuit also causes the boiler to switch off with lots of steam-like noise in the pipes above it after just a few seconds running. I assume this is a thermal safety cutout in action.
The water pump in the airing cupboard can be heard to run for the short duration that the boiler is active, and water can be heard and felt (by heat transfer to hand) to quickly circulate to the hot water tank, with some heat transfer to the (deselected) radiator circuit.
Could the plumbing part of the valve thus be stuck in a restricted flow state, even though the electric side thinks that the valve has moved? I say this because the plastic indicator on the valve motor casing correctly moves on command to the appropriate selection.
If not, what are other likely causes that I can DIY check, please?
Many thanks!
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More info:
I have just been in the loft, and confirmed that the heating header tank is full. From the light scum on the top, it has not been replenished in yonks, meaning no top-up, so there is most unlikely to be a leak that has drawn air in to the system.
This looks more like a plumber job every minute, unfortunately.
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And more info!
Uh oh.
From www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl034.php
If the flow of water through the boiler is insufficient, then the boiler can be noisy. It is very important to have the correct water flow rate, especially in wall-hung boilers. Steam bubbles can cause hot spots in the boiler, which can produce loud bangs. The cause is usually due to corrosion and scale forming in the boiler. Add non-acidic cleanser plus a de-scaler to the feed and expansion tank.
Twelve years from new, I hope the (Baxi Solo) boiler does not need replacing, especially as a high concentration of Fernox is used in the water to try and guard against exactly this.
Unless anyone comes up with something else, I will turn the water pump speed up to maximum, and if this flows enough water to keep the boiler running, try adding some de-scaler.
Time for bed now though.
Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.
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The sounds you hear would indicate insufficient water in the boiler or the pump isn't working and the boiler is trying to work on gravity and overheats and then closes down for safety as you mention.
Try running the boiler with the control knob on the boiler turned off. (if your system allows it) This would allow your pump to run and the system to operate even though it is cold water which is circulating.
If the pump does continue to run as normal it narrows the problem down to perhaps water not circulating fast enough through the boiler but in that case its own thermostat should close down and not initiate the safety cut off.
Thinking on my feet it almost sounds as if you have little water in the boiler which would cut off the safety switch.
The valve you mention usually has a lever in which you can move the setting manually and I presume you have tried this. If not give it a try, they usually have to be pressed down or up before it will move.
The obvious answer is that you have a airlock somewhere in the primaries which is preventing the circulation. try bleeding the circ pump and any other bleed valves you can find.
I find it difficult to imagine that suddenly your boiler has scaled up and prevented flow and would give ample warning of this happening.
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find it difficult to imagine that suddenly your boiler has scaled up and prevented flow and would give ample warning of this happening.
Thanks, Alvin.
Spot on! :-)
This morning, with the pipes all cold and herefore 'touchable', I have found that the Grundfos Selectric water pump has in fact packed up, even though I thought yesterday I could feel it running through the noise and vibration of banging and gurgling pipes.
It has an isolation valve either side, so should be easy to replace. Now to ask Electrical Engineer Dad how to prove that the electrical side is indeed not working, before I spend money (I guess the water side is easy to check: It either rotates freely, or it doesn't?)
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SJB, Yes its an easy job to replace the pump. You probably need a pair of stillsons to undo the unions either side of the pump but perhaps a large adjustable may do it.
Standard distance between face flanges on domestic pumps is 130mm so they should all fit. Grundfoss are very good.
Check if there are flange washers come with the pump. I say this because I fitted one for the SIL a few months ago and they didnt supply them with the pump and had to find some which I did eventually at Plumbcentre.
Just clean the faces off before refitting.
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SJB, Yes its an easy job to replace the pump. You probably need a pair of stillsons to undo the unions either side of the pump but perhaps a large adjustable may do it. Standard distance between face flanges on domestic pumps is 130mm so they should all fit. Grundfoss are very good. Check if there are flange washers come with the pump. I say this because I fitted one for the SIL a few months ago and they didnt supply them with the pump and had to find some which I did eventually at Plumbcentre. Just clean the faces off before refitting.
Hi Alvin,
Just thought I'd close the loop and say "Job done".
There were only two hiccups: The isolation valves didn't 'quite' close fully (despite working backwards and forwards a few times) so I had to work quickly to minimise water spillage. The second was that the Grundfos (one 'S' ;-) 15/50 pump that I purchased had a duff vent gland, and weeped water. Changed on the spot by Plumbcentre, the second one was is good as gold. The unions came undone easy-peasy, and I didn't need the 32mm spanner that I purchased to stop the pump rotating whilst I applied torque to the unions.
Looking at the twelve year old pump that failed (also a Grundfos 15/50), the vane was jammed solid and the windings show open circuit. I guess it has overheated against load, and burned out.
I'm off to Milwaukee in tomorrow morning, but when I return, will perform a descale and flush of the system to be on the safe side.
SjB
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Since last week we have noticed that our radiators get hot when the central heating is off but the water heating is on.
Being totally non technical in this sort of thing I have had a quick look at the technology beside the hot water cylinder and it seems as if water is going through the heating pipes as well as heating the cylinder.
I guess the problem is the motorised valve. I have two questions
1. Is my diagnosis reasonable?
2. How difficult is this to replace?
Can any of the heating experts help please
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I'd be interested to hear the response to this too. I have exactly the same problem, and thought a valve was the likely cause. Not actually bothered getting it fixed yet though, with an electric shower and a dishwasher, everything for which we need hot water can heat it itself, so we just turn the heating off altogether for most of the summer. (And yes, I know that's probably a bad idea. I really do mean to get it fixed one of these days...)
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I'm no expert (witness my question!), but yes, almost certainly the three way valve. These are the most common cause of c/h operational failure, and have been the cause every time I've had a problem before.
Relatively cheap and easy to replace, and I was hoping mine was this problem this time, but apparently not!
Some have a separate motor that can be replaced independently of the valve body, and some (like my aforementioned ACL jobbie) don't and have to be replaced as a unit. Replacement of such types may require system partial draining depending on the location of isolation valves.
A useful explanation of how they work is here: www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/plumbingpage2.html#midp...n
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Oh yes, I also found that I could find replacements for *every* component in my c/h system simply by typing the part numbers in to Google. Although many parts are 'standard sizes', if you want to replace like-with-like to guarantee ease of fitting (pipe locations, pipe bores, and wiring colours), this may be useful.
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>>1. Is my diagnosis reasonable?
Yes. It is not the only possibility, but it is a likely one. Other possibilities could involve lack of electricity to the valve, failure of the programming unit, failure of the control unit etc. etc.
However, the valve is the most likely. If you switch between heating, water and everything off, can you see the valve move ? Can you hear anything ?
Can you valve be turned manually ? Some of them can and if you could do that it would be a level of confirmation. Do you have any meter that you could use to see if electricity is reaching the valve ? Which would be the final confirming fact.
>>2. How difficult is this to replace?
Its not. Just follow your thoughts and actions logically; is everything switched off, have I drained the water below this point or at least frozen it ? DO you understand where all the valves are and what they are isolating ? That sort of thing. Take it slowly and remember the aim is to get it fixed properly, not to complete the task as fast as possible.
Wherever you buy your valve will also sell you the sealants you need and probably give you a quick pep-talk as well. Check you have all the tools you may need.
By teh way, if you do use one of the freezing technologies, do make sure that you know how to turn the water off anyway. It is not unheard of for either the frozen core to blow out or for you to fail to get the job done quickly enough.
In an ideal world you should be able to mostly isolate the valve with the switches and may even be able to dismantle it in situ. Sometimes the valve "drive" will simply unscrew off the valve itself.
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Thanks for the help.
Until I get round to getting it fixed, am I likely to cause any problems by turning off all the radiators meantime?
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Yes your diagnosis is reasonable and probably correct.
Different kind of motorised valve but the principle is the same in all. A small motor sits on the top of the valve which has a spindle sticking up out of it which locates into the motor.
Easy job to do and what I suggest first is to remove the motor which is held down by probably 4 screws and then lifts off.
Check if the spindle on the valve is free to turn manually with pliers or similar. If it does turn easily its likely the motor has given up the ghost.
You can check this by turning the supply on to by either the room thermostat or cylstat and watch to see if the slot where ths spindle fits into actually turns.
Dont expect it to whiz round, its so slow you can hardly see it and perhaps takes 30 seconds to move a quarter of a turn.
If the spindle is free and the motor valve doesnt turn its just the motor which needs replacing.
If this is the case its a case of disconnecting the wires from where they go into, often a junction box nearby or similar.
Several wires so note them carefully and remember to isolate the supply as its 240 V.
There will be a manufacurers name and number on the motor to enable you to get the correct replacement which has the wires coming out of it.
If its the valve itself it is a simple spanner job although obviously the water either side needs to be isolated.
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A handy hint:
If you replace the three way valve;
1) Unscrew the motor assembly
2) CUT the existing wires leaving short tails behind
3) Remove one tail
4) Fit corresponding new wire
5) Remove next tail
6) Fit corresponding new wire
7) Repeat as necessary
Removes the "Did I get all the colours on the correct terminals?" guesswork, especially if working in a confined space.
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Just to add
Its nearly always the valve motor, the design means it has power on all the time when opened and just stalls itself at full valve open, not a pretty enginnering solution!
ALSo beware, the colour of the wires has changed several times in the last 20 years that i have been maintaining my various central heating systems.
Also beware of just changing the plate assembly (this contains the motor, switch and actuator lever assembly) this has changed a few times as well, they all look very similar but dont in fact always sit right.
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I've just been preparing some tea and something just hit me (no not a frozen sausage!) - why is there a light in the fridge but not in the freezer?
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Because you bought a cheap freezer? Mine has a light.
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Because you bought a cheap freezer? Mine has a light.
Perhaps the reason that you are now No Do$h is that you overextended your budget when you bought YOUR freezer? :-;
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Freezer light would fail too often due to the larger temerature differential?
Dunno really. I think Peter Kay raised this point in one of his stand up routines though.
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I'm travelling tomorrow - just a thought while I'm packing...
Are shaver sockets in the US the same round two pin design as in the UK? I'm wondering if I can use my charger for my toothbrush over there. The charger says 220 ~ 240, so does that mean I couldn't use it in the US anyway?
Please give me the benefit of your wisdom!
Motoring link - I'm going to an auto industry/government meeting in Washington. Any suggestion that I am more interested in the shopping will be met with firm denial!
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Understand US voltage generally to be circa110/120. Airport shops usualy carry a range of adaptors, but we've acquired a battery toothbrush for travel.
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Socket might work although they're normally round pins, but adapters are readily available.
However the voltage means you're out of luck.
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Thanks for the info chaps.
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However the voltage means you're out of luck.
I'm probably showing my immense ignorance (so change there then) but wouldn't it work but charge more slowly?
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It wouldn't damage it - And indeed some stuff will run slowly. Some stuff, however, just won't run. I guess its something like a switch to change from batteries to mains wich it doesn't trip.
However it won't work normally so you're better off not trying.
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Visit any branch of Walgreens or Eckerds (everywhere like Boots but 1000% better) and buy a made-in-China shaver cheaply.
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... or buy an ordinary toothbrush and razor and do it the old fashioned way :-)
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A lot of modern technology that runs in the UK will be perfectly happy on 110V - my own Philips shaver is, and looking around the room right now I can see loads of stickers claiming 110-230V compatibility. Laptop, speakers, clocks, digital camera, phone etc.
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A lot of modern technology that runs in the UK will be perfectly happy on 110V - my own Philips shaver is, and looking around the room right now I can see loads of stickers claiming 110-230V compatibility. Laptop, speakers, clocks, digital camera, phone etc.
You have a mains operated digital camera? Wow never seen one of those!
How long is the power lead?
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"I can see loads of stickers claiming 110-230V compatibility"
Did you miss this bit ??
>>The charger says 220 ~ 240
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"I can see loads of stickers claiming 110-230V compatibility" Did you miss this bit ?? >>The charger says 220 ~ 240
Yes.
My digital camera has rechargable batteries...
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Further to
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?m=325672...e
points were finally found in Banbury for a couple of quid.
Thought we had hit a dead end when an Internet site told us they were no longer available. Similarly Stratford had a place that refused to acknowledge that Suffolk could make their own engines.
Thanks again.
--------------
Mike Farrow
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Well just cleaning the points did that, but they were horrible worn (not warn out as such, just that horrid step I was talking about), hence the need for replacement.
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These pens are the only ones with which I can write legibly but the ink is a menace. It seems at first sight to be water soluble (smears when wet) but if the nib is accidentally left in contact with clothing, it wicks in fast and can't be removed with any of the usual solvents. Three shirts have gone this way. Pilot don't have an answer. Does anyone using this site please?
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Hi,
Can't lay hands on the instruction manual for my PACE sky plus box. I need the code for programming the handset to operate the television set - which is a Hitachi. A Jack and Jill guide to the programming process would help as well....
Thanks in advance.
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Should be all you need here + codes for most makes of TV.
www.satelliteonline.co.uk/programming_the_sky_rcu....m
MM
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