******** This thread now closed. Please see Volume 51 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=31344
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
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Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 50. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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Please forgive my ignorance if this is a daft question!
I have noticed recently that my AVG virus scanner has been taking a long time to do a scan - about 30 mins. It seems to whip through a lot of areas then spend ages on shell.32.dll (in lower case - it checks SHELL32.dll v quickly.) I also notice that a couple of thousand of the files it is checking are C:\_RESTORE\TEMP|*CPY. 9Out of about 35000 scanned objects. Is this normal? Should I leave well alone - the computer works perfectly OK.
System is ME with a 20gig hard disc of which 11 gig is unused. 512mb of ram
Thanks in advance!
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"C:_RESTORETEMP|*CPY. 9Out"
Sorry - some bad bits in that - should be a back slash between RESTORE and TEMP and between TEMP and CPY. Don't know where the 9 or capital O on "Out" came from!
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I turned on my laptop just now (running XP) and the Found New Hardware Wizard opened, and offered to help me install software for ATWPKT2. Since I have not connected any new hardware recently, I was rather curious. How might I discover what kind of hardwware ATWPKT2 is?
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Read this...
www.wilderssecurity.com/archive/index.php/t-20540....l
Also type atwpkt2 into google for loads of details.
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Belated thanks for that, Mark
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I find that my pc has taken to turning itself on. I switch off in the usual way and switch off the monitor and I frequently find that the thing has booted up again after a period of idleness.
It is a new pc running XP and I have just changed to broadband. I assume some signal is coming down the phone line and initiating a boot up.
At the moment it is not that big a problem, but long term I want to stop it doing it .
Any ideas please?
Don
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Hmmm
How do you switch off in the usual way? you may be putting it into standby.
failing that, in the BIOS (F1 at bootup) there is a feature called "wake on LAN" that would do it.
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As Renault Family{P} points out it is most likely you have a feature enabled in Power Options in the Bios to turn your system on in the event of receiving the appropriate signal.
Check that "Wake on LAN" and similar features are disabled in the Bios - they are usually enabled to respond to, for instance, an incoming fax and to enable it to be received.
You are better using Hibernate to turn your machine off for shortish periods; unlike Standby, Hibernate saves all the current settings and any programs or browser pages that are open before closing down and should be configured to operate by pressing the power button.
When you press the power button to turn it back on, your system will open at the same state it was before being put into Hibernation. At the end of the day, turn the machine off in the normal manner rather than leaving it in Hibernate form.
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Sorry, basic question, perhaps. Do I just keep pressing F1 when I switch on?
Thank you for your prompt replies.
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Bit of a nack this, but after the power on self test and before windows loads. You may get a prompt "press f1 for Bios" During the bios or manufacturers flash screen.
What PC is it?
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> What PC is it? Mesh
Its F1 then, when the diskette drive starts making clunking noises.
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It depends on the Bios software provider - my Award (now Phoenix) Bios requires the Delete button to be pressed.
Your opening screen after the switch-on should detail which method to use.
(The Phoenix is not the Rover version...!)
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either f1 or f8 or hit the "del" key
dont keep pressing it tho.
watch for if it loads up you graphics driver, then it should post with 512000 meg mem or something like that, maybe it might tell u processor speed too. like pent4 running at 2.8ghz
press after you see these, about 10 times should do
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press del is the correct answer according to the book.
I remembered my grannie's words "When all else fails, try reading the ------ manual"
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When trying to get into the BIOS on an unfamilar PC I usually find if I repeatedly hit keys during voot up it will come up with Keyboard Error and an option telling you which to press to entger set up...not very professional or reliable though!
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When I put my PC into standby mode it frequently switches itself on again. I've always assumed that it was because it was too sensitive to naturally occurring vibrations and had thought that I had either touched the mouse or pressed a key.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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My computer (rather elderly, running Windows 2000, Pentium III, 64MB Ram, system running with 25% free) starts up and runs fine. AFter about an hour, it is considerably slower, and after two hours it is like a snail. Rebooting cures it, but of course it runs slower & slower again.
Suggestions, please? I've defragged & scan-disced (glorious verb).
Thanks, as ever.
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64MB Ram SIXTY FOUR?
Windows 2k has well known memory leaks (ie does not give back memory it takes for tasks) hence memory gets used, so you run out and it starts to page to disk.
SIXTY FOUR? no you are pulling my leg
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lol. get 256mb ram and bang it in.
also check for spyware by using spybot
www.majorgeeks.com/download2471.html
and adaware
www.majorgeeks.com/download506.html
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All the sexes, clickity click - minus 2. That's right, RF, SEVENTY LESS SIX. is that not many?
It starts OK, and disappears. I take it that I need a proper computer. (I remember when my little brother spent 1500 on a computer that would run his CAD programme, and that wasn't even a pentium.)
Ah well, thanks for the advice.
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Check out the power supply and CPU cooling fans are still working. I had this one on a customer PC the other day. The power supply cooling fan had stopped and as the power supply got hot the voltage dropped and the system froze.
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Thanks, I'll grovel around in there later. It does sound like a wind farm, though, but I'll check there are 2 fans goingso I guess there are fans running like nobody's (somebody's?) business. Also immediate rebooting would surely not alleviate the overheating problem - and I've discovered that you can use Word for maybe three or four hours without problem, whereas intensive internet use causes the brakes to go straight on!
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Sorry Mappy, it just dont have enough memory. If you know what kind of memory it takes and you know your way round a computer fair you could probably upgrade it to 512 quite cheaply - probably about 30 quid with second hand memory dimms.
failing that - its boat anchor time.
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If you are running Win2k on it you don't necessarily need a new system as it may not be that old.
Adding RAM, as rightly suggested, will provide a massive performance boost (often more than a faster CPU) and will also be much cheaper; another useful benefit would be to defrag the hard drive.
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I've recently installed the ZoneAlarm firewall and I'm having problems knowing how to respond to the many alerts that I'm getting. For instance, several times (in my ignorance) I've denied connection to mcinfo.exe but I've now found from a Google search that it is an essential programme for my McAfee software. Will I get another chance to accept mcinfo.exe in the future? Do I just have to learn from my mistakes?
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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double click on the little icon in the right hand end of your toolbar (the yellow square with ZA in red in it which shows green and red bars as you use the internet.
There are several tabs, and I'm doing this from memory, one is called something like settings and wihtin that there is a sub tab entitled program control - just fiddle, you'll find it.
Within that you will see the programs listed and the answers you have given. Click on one and it will allow you to change it to yes, no or ask.
In future when in doubt say "No", but do not check "Remember this answer" and then see what breaks and when you're asked. If nothing is broken and you can't see any reason to enable it, then disallow it permamently.
I knwo the explanation is a little garbled, its early, but hopefully you can work out what I mean.
M.
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As Mark states, open the ZA control panel by double-clicking on the icon in the Notification area.
You'll see Program Control on the left. Click on it and a list will come up of the various programs, applications etc on your system.
There will be green ticks or blue question marks - normally the left hand pair are of interest to you.
Left click on programs, applications etc you know use the internet such as Internet Explorer, Outlook Express, Firefox etc. These should be Allowed from the menu.
Any you know shouldn't use the net, tick Block and any others which may require to do so but you are not sure, tick Ask. Right clicking on a program etc will allow you to Remove or Add.
Eventually you will learn which individual programes etc to allow to use the net without asking and tick the permanent box for them.
Server rights only go to features such as Windows Media Player and Skype.
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Thanks Mark and Stuartli,
It's all becoming much clearer. Just one (for the time being!)more question. Under the "Access" heading what's the difference between Trusted and Internet? In laymans' language please!
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Zones are how Integrity Client keeps track of the good, the bad, and the unknown out on the Internet.
Zones are virtual spaces
Zones are virtual spaces ? ways of classifying the computers and networks that your computer communicates with.
The Internet Zone is the "unknown." All the computers and networks in the world belong to this Zone?until you move them to one of the other Zones.
The Trusted Zone is the "good." It contains all the computers and networks you trust and want to share resources with?for example, the other machines on your local or home network.
Blocked Zone is the "bad." It contains computers and networks you distrust.
When another computer wants to communicate with your computer...
Integrity Client looks at the Zone it is in?that is, whether it is good, bad, or unknown?to help decide what to do.
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You can normally Allow both the Trusted and the Internet providing that the permissions you have given for access you know are required (i.e. Internet Explorer, Firefox, Outlook Express etc) or can be trusted.
You should also Disable the Alerts warning from Alerts and Log, otherwise you will be driven to distraction...:-) A full record is kept in Overview.
Also tick Manual in Overview>Preferences's Check for Updates; new ZA versions are well spaced and the occasional check will suffice.
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Hijack - but on the same subject....
I keep getting AU-Magic flag asking for permission. Whilst I think this is in connection with automatic updating I can find no reference to this so have been denying access.
Can someone tell what AU-Magic controls?
DVD
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It is autoupdate, I think.
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>>It is autoupdate, I think.
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yes it is. aparently related to windows me.
see
castlecops.com/postt24983.html
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lescargot
for a graphical guide to zonealarm set-up
look here:
www.markusjansson.net/eza.html
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Thanks D. I did ask Jeeves and others but they didn't know....
DVD
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I find that several links on a lot of varied websites appear to point to this address but every time it refuses my attempt.
Could it be it doesn't like Firefox, is it my ISP being blocked, or .......?
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Frankly you dont want to go there. Its being blocked by a pop up blocker or one of your anti spyware tools
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Thanks RF, that's what I suspected but the trouble is it's on a lot of useful links - like eBay 'favourite searches' etc..
Nice of eBay, presumably get a few fractions of a penny for that whilst I get a bit of spyware!
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You can work out what it represents from this link:
tinyurl.com/87er8
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I have an old HP print server so all my puters can print to the OfficeJet. Printing works fine all the time. Scanning works fine, intermittently. Although scanning is not strictly supported as such, seeing as it works, I expect to use it.
However to scan I use a browser window, and point it to the address of the print server. This loads Java applets which give me the controls I need - preview, scan, save etc. However, quite often but not always, these do not load correctly and just have coffee cups instead of buttons etc.
I recently updated the Java when prompted (at some time I have installed Sun Jave over the top of whatever is native). So it's up to date. I've been through the security settings in the browser (problem is the same in IE and Firefox), but as nothing has changed and it still intermittently works there can't be anything wrong there.
I'm coming to the conclusion that maybe the embedded web server is knackered, but really that doesn't make much sense either. It only really seems to be a problem on the machines on which I've put Firefox on.
Anyone any ideas? (No thanks Lee, I don't want to reformat and start again!! LOL)
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Are you sure?!
Java went to 1.5 recently so your update may have knackered it. Might be worth considering finding 1.4, removing 1.5 and reinstalling 1.4.
Do you have the same problem from all your computers? If you've got an old one with 1.4 and it works then there's the answer.
Finally, check hp (assuming OfficeJet means hp printer) and find the latest drivers. They're not all that great at publishing the drivers/software for a PSC but you might hit lucky.
(Shuffles off to flatten and rebuild a server - seriously!)
Lee.
-- Lee Having a Fabialous time.
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Scanning works fine on my old Win98 non-Firefox non-Sun Java computer. There are no newer drivers for either the printer or the jetdirect server. I am pretty sure it's a Java problem, but will have to research how to address it. It was only working intermittently before the upgrade, and isn't any worse since so I don't think it's just the new release. (It woerked once this morning, but not again...)
Thinking back, I also had some problems with some game I was trying to play on a web page, which was java. Maybe I'll flatten it and start again :-)
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>>Java went to 1.5 recently >>
You may be confusing Java Runtime 1.5 with 1.42 etc. There's a new update for 1.5 by the way.
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Or I might not be, thanks.
-- Lee Having a Fabialous time.
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>>Or Imight not, thanks.>>
www.java.com/en/download/faq/5000070300.xml
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>>Or Imight not, thanks.>>
Plus:
www.java.com/en/download/faq/5000070400.xml
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Stuart,
You'll have to trust that I know a lot more about Java than you. A whole lot more.
The JRE isn't much use without a JDK.
Cheers,
-- Lee Having a Fabialous time.
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All of a sudden my PC has begun running excruciatingly slow. I installed ZoneAlarm 3 days ago but I am prepared to accept that this is coincidental. There is 29.5Gb of hard drive free so I assume that this isn't the problem, but (strangely?) before installing ZoneAlarm there was 31.5Gb free. I've scanned for viruses and my PC was declared clean. As an indication of how slow it is it took over 2 hours to scan 42000 files!
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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1)
ctrl-alt-del
Task Manager
click on performance tab - is CPU or page file being buried ?
click on processes tab, click on CPU column header - what tasks are running high ?
2)
scan for spyware
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What OS are you running? if its windows xp you need to press alt/ctrl/del to bring up the task manager, click process's, then clcik (twice) on the CPU or memory headers to see who the cpu or memory hog is.
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DAMN YOUR EYES MARK - U DID IT AGAIN!
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I clicked the Applications tab and it indicated that Windows File Protection is running. It says "Files that are required for Windows to run properly have been replaced by unrecognised versions. To maintain system stability Windows must restore the original versions of these files. Insert your Windows XP Home Edition CD-ROM now." I clicked More Information and it said "You have inserted the wrong CD" ~ which I haven't, or "The CD-ROM drive in your system is not functioning."
Because XP was pre-installed when I bought the computer I haven't got the XP Home Edition CD-ROM. What I do have is a Restore CD, which would return the PC to the state it was in when I bought it. Fortunately I have fairly recent back-up discs of my files.
Is there any alternative to inserting the Restore CD? What would I do about my ISP and my computer security. Presumably they would disappear when I inserted the Restore CD?
It's not quite panicsville but it's close!
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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PS. Now that I've got the Windows File Protection window on the screen I don't seem to be able to get any further. If I click Cancel or try to close the window I get the message "You chose not to restore the original versions of these files. This may affect Windows stability. Are you sure you want to keep these unrecognised file versions?" Doing the obvious and clicking on "No" merely returns the Windows File Protection window to the screen.
Help!!
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Protected File List
WFP protects files with the following extensions that are installed by Windows: .dll, .exe, .ocx, and .sys. In addition, the TrueType fonts Micross.ttf, Tahoma.ttf, and Tahomabd.ttf are also protected.
At the end of the Windows installation, WFP runs a scan of all protected files to ensure they have not been modified by applications installed through unattended installation. WFP also copies verified versions of these system files to the cache directory. When an application attempts to replace a protected file, WFP can restore the original file from the cache directory.
The default value is %systemroot%\system32\dllcache. To specify a different location for the cache, create the following registry value.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon\SFCDllCacheDir
This must be a local path. Using a network path creates a single shared network source for cache files, provided all clients using the share are running the same service packs and hotfixes.
The default size of the cache is unlimited. To change the size of the cache, use the following registry setting:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon\SFCQuota
If the value is SFC_QUOTA_ALL_FILES, all system files will be cached in the cache directory.
Due to disk space considerations, it may not be desirable to maintain cached versions of all system files in the cache directory. Depending on the size of the cache, WFP will store verified file versions in the cache directory on the system hard drive. WFP will add files to the cache until the size of the cache directory reaches the specified limit.
When an application attempts to replace a protected file that is not in the cache, WFP attempts to restore the original file from the installation source, prompting the user if necessary.
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Lord knows how you got in this mess just by doing a alt/ctrl/del.
try alt/ctrl/del and select shutdown from the top menu, this may clean it up and shut it down, or select yes and replace the files
either way it sounds like a reload, but you need to get in into some kind of state where you can backup all the setings you need first
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Lord knows how you got in this mess just by doing a alt/ctrl/del.
The mess was already there! Alt/ctrl/del merely gave me access to the Applications tab which lead me to the information I've quoted. It'll probably end up as "Normal Service will be restored as soon as possible"! I'll probably sleep on it before I do anything drastic.
Thanks for your help.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Can I recommend 2 free programmes that I have been running for some time now and they do a brilliant job of keeping your pc clean.
The first one is CCleaner www.ccleaner.com/
This is very easy to use and clears all the junk from your pc. Just run it and exit every few days. The Tools menu also shows what starts up with Windows so you can delete any unecessary ones that slow your boot up times. I have used this programme for months now and in conjunction with the next one below I no longer have to use Adaware or Spybot and the pc is as fast as ever.
The second programme is the Microsoft Anti-spyware www.microsoft.com/athome/security/spyware/software...x . You can set to run this in the background so it stops spyware from actually installing in the first place. You can also set it to auto-update. These programmes work and if you have a decent firewall like Zone Alarm and anti-virus like AVG you just won't get the problems that most people get by not keeping their systems clean.
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>>I have used this programme for months now and in conjunction with the next one below I no longer have to use Adaware or Spybot and the pc is as fast as ever.>>
That's exactly what SpywareBlaster does and has been doing for some time (on my system and thousands of others) - running in the background keeping the little nasties out of your system...:-)
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PS
If you are using IE you will almost certainly need to keep AdAware and Spybot and update them regularly - it's only with Firefox that this requirement has become virtually redundant even though I keep them updated on a daily basis.
AdAware and Spybot constantly found little nasties whilst I was using IE - I've had just one in the last six months since switching to Firefox.
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>>Is there any alternative to inserting the Restore CD?
Not really, no. And since you have recent backups of your files, then its not even worth trying.
Do you have a CD writer ? If so, download zone alarm, ad-aware, and any other protection tools you use and write them to the CD. If you know that you're going to be missing sp1 or sp2, then download those to a CD as well.
Do a further backup of your excell, powerpoint, word and e-mails and any other similar and write it to CD.
Then, use the restore disk, install the protection tools, then scan each backed up file for virues or spyware before you restore it.
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>>Is there any alternative to inserting the Restore CD?
maybe not. but maybe all is not lost yet.
first try to use system restore, assuming you have some restore points to go back to.
- i would suggest trying to go back one restore date at a time, until your pc is back to a working state.
system restore points can be reached from:
start - all programs - accessories - system tools - system restore.
if that fails, follow mark & rf's advice.
good luck.
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I frequently need to download multiple files, in fact a tree structure of directories and files from a web page. I have been right clicking and downloading the files individually, but now there are too many files, and it takes me a while. Is there an easier or quicker way?
I suspect there is a much easier way to do this, and I'm being a bit thick!
number_cruncher
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There used to be products that downloaded a whole site "in background". This was in dial up days, so while you were reading page 1, the pages linked from it were downloaded and would be available for later off line reading. You could choose how many levels of link they went down. Whether they would grab files I'm not sure, but I suspect the technology will have got better rather than withered away. Google around, I'm sure there's something out there.
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you need a download manager
www.getright.com/
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Excellent!
Thanks RF and smokie for your answers.
A download manager is currently doing its thing in the background, allowing me to invest my time elsewhere...
Cheers,
number_cruncher
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Anyone managed to set up a wireless network using AOL?
I currently have an 8.11g card for my laptop and am about to take delivery of a new PDA/smartphone (iMate PDA2k) which supports WiFi (although only at 8.11b speed) which has got me thinking about setting up a wireless network at home.
I'm using the AOL/BT Voyager broadband modem and want to replace this with an 8.11g router/modem. As the card on my laptop is from Belkin I thought it would make sense to stick to the same manufacturer and spotted this:
www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=121207
Sure I can find it cheaper with a bit of digging around.....
I'm using AOL as my ISP. My desktop PC runs XP Pro and the laptop runs XP home. Both have SP2.
Anyway, having never networked PCs before, I'm in the dark. Apart from the kit already listed, is there anything else I need to buy? Am I likely to have any compatability problems? What do I need to do to get this lot running?
I'm also considering building a stand-alone server as I want to eventually run back up all my data and place all my CDs and DVDs on one whopping great hard drive/RAID array and be able to access this wirelessly. I have this crazy idea of being able to plug my PDA into an amplifier in any room in the house and access my playlist although I suspect I'm getting out of my depth here......
::whimper::
Any pointers welcome.
ND
Help?
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If you've aleady got a modem, don't go buying a modem/router combi, just buy a router (with wireless attached). You can find them much cheaper than that, and it doesn't matter what the brand is. Does the desktop plug directly into the modem at the moment? If so you don't need to wireless network this, as most wireless routers will come with a hub/switch you can just plug it straight into.
I'm a Linksys fan though others may have different opinions. Basically all you'll need is one of these:
tinyurl.com/bouuy
Any router you buy should come with a patch lead to go from router to modem. All you'll need is an extra plug socket :-)
Hope this helps!
--------------
Mike Farrow
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Sorry ND I forgot you were planning to build a server. In which case you'll probably be better off with a 54mbps router, in which case the first on the ebuyer list (11mbps) will be a bit slow if you're planning to stream and upload data. But again I'd go for a branded one, the cheap one's aren't half as good at keeping the signal strength. I know, I bought one!
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"I currently have an 8.11g card for my laptop and am about to take delivery of a new PDA/smartphone (iMate PDA2k) which supports WiFi (although only at 8.11b speed) which has got me thinking about setting up a wireless network at home."
802.11.b is ample - 11mbs second,
"I'm using the AOL/BT Voyager broadband modem and want to replace this with an 8.11g router/modem."
No problem, lots of people doing exactly that - dumping the voyager and putting in new ones. YOU NEED TO ACCESS AOL DIFFERENTLY THO - explain later.
"As the card on my laptop is from Belkin I thought it would make sense to stick to the same manufacturer and spotted this:"
Nope Belkin has problems with mixed traffic speeds (g & b) on wireless and a rubbish firewall - Look for one these
www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=116702 - Much cheaper elsewhere tho
or one of these
www.smc.com/index.cfm?event=viewProduct&localeCode...3
"Anyway, having never networked PCs before, I'm in the dark. Apart from the kit already listed, is there anything else I need to buy?"
Nope
" Am I likely to have any compatability problems?"
Yes and no - see next
"What do I need to do to get this lot running?"
You need to make sure you ARE NOT using AOL using all the supplied AOL software. You need to access AOL using the built in windows networking which was not possible till recently. It would be less hastle to dump AOL completely
checkout this and other threads
www.expansys.fr/forumthread.asp?code=DSL-604GPLUS&...5
"I'm also considering building a stand-alone server as I want to eventually run back up all my data and place all my CDs and DVDs on one whopping great hard drive/RAID array and be able to access this wirelessly."
Yup thats the setup I have, I have a san raid array but you dont need either. Just a PC with a network or wireless card connected up to the router and called SERVER, stick two big 320gb drives in, partition drive 1 into a small one for the OS and a big one as D, second drive as E, make D&E open shared and bing - huge storage. You can share the CD and DVD drives on the server as well, and stick a printer set to shared on it.
"I have this crazy idea of being able to plug my PDA into an amplifier in any room in the house and access my playlist although I suspect I'm getting out of my depth here"
Nope possible and easy. Go the whole hog, and stick a wireless entertainment server on your main HiFi too.,
I would urge you however to dump AOL. It will act as a hindrance to your whole "internet experience" You aint aged 8 you dont need a nanny!
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I can sit in my lounge and connect wirelessly with my laptop to the net. One of my neighbours - I don't know who - has set up a wireless network in his house and it's not secure so I can use it. I don't think he knows I'm using it. (I'm certain)
While staying in a hotel near Oxford Circus last year I connected using a belkin network - ditto.
Yesterday in the middle of wakefield I connected again.
At no time did I pay any money. If you get the centrino stuff there's a 50% chance that wherever you are in the UK that you can connect for free.
I've got a BT openzone sub however which I use at airports and mainline train stations but at £5 an hour it's much better to piggy back someone out there who's set up a wireless network (residential or business) but not made it secure.
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Nope Belkin has problems with mixed traffic speeds (g & b) on wireless and a rubbish firewall - Look for one these www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=116702 - Much cheaper elsewhere tho
Excellent. Just ordered one with the matching PCI card for the desktop to give maximum flexibility on where I site the router (2ft thick cob walls on this place) for £130 including Vear And Tear and delivery.
I would urge you however to dump AOL. It will act as a hindrance to your whole "internet experience" You aint aged 8 you dont need a nanny!
::sigh::
If only. I've had the same email address for 7 years and numerous attempts to encourage les autres to use a new one have failed. I really ought to get round to sorting out my own domain name for my business and then I can drop AO hell.... except my daughter is approaching her 6th birthday and the whole "Disney Internet" thing is rather handy for that purpose.
Hmmmmm....
Thanks for everyone's help/suggestions/links.
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Excellent. Just ordered one with the matching PCI card for the desktop
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i have the very same netgear gt router + pci + usb pack; good offer currently at amazon - see
www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/tg/feature/-/551755/r...2
I've had the same email address for 7 years and numerous attempts to encourage les autres to use a new one have failed. I really ought to get round to sorting out my own domain name for my business and then I can drop AO hell
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start using a yahoo or gmail account, send all your email from aol with an automatic "reply to address" to your new address, and a note to your signature that your aol account will soon be closed; and every time someone sends you mail to aol, gently remind them that the aol account will soon be disabled. do this over a few months and then you can decide when/if you can safely ditch aol.
the deals on broadband you can get now elsewhere are just too good to miss. prices start at £10/month for 512k unlimited downloads !
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i have the very same netgear gt router + pci + usb pack; good offer currently at amazon - see www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/tg/feature/-/551755/r...2
:o(
Good thing it's only money. I had a good old google before sending the order for £130 too. Hopefully someone else in the Backroom can benefit from your research though?
start using a yahoo or gmail account, send all your email from aol with an automatic "reply to address" to your new address, and a note to your signature that your aol account will soon be closed; and every time someone sends you mail to aol, gently remind them that the aol account will soon be disabled. do this over a few months and then you can decide when/if you can safely ditch aol.
Not a bad idea, although I've tried this in the past. AOL doesn't offer automated mail forwarding and it isn't compatible with Outlook (which are good reasons to dump it in their own right)
What I may do is set up a cheaper ISP, sort out a domain name and site for my business and drop AOL down to £5.95 for dial-up for a few months, just to keep the account live and allow me to access any emails using webmail.
Thanks for that Dalglish, much appreciated.
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After two days of my PC having tantrums resulting in it refusing to run at anything greater than snails pace (ironic or what!) it has now miraculously (and thankfully!) put itself virtually back to normal. However it now has an annoyance in the form of the desktop being split into two parts ~ right and the left. The RH is what I want but the LH is superflous to requirements. I've searched high and low in Appearances and Themes but can't find how to get rid of the LH part. If it's any clue, the LH part can be expanded horizontally to up to half of the screen width but I can't get it to contract completely to nothing.
How do I get it back to a one part desktop, please? (My PC runs XP Home Edition.)
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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How do I get it back to a one part desktop, please? (My PC runs XP Home Edition.)
How can your desktop be split in two? Stupid question, I suppose, because if you knew that you'd know how to change it.
Can you give a more detailed description of what you mean? What do the two parts look like? Is it possible to post a screenshot somewhere? Do they both have your desktop background?
I wonder if one of the desktop parts is a toolbar that you've created by accident by dragging a folder to the edge of the screen. If it is, you can remove it by right clicking and selecting 'close toolbar'.
Other options for customising your desktop can be found by right clicking it.
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I wonder if one of the desktop parts is a toolbar that you've created by accident by dragging a folder to the edge of the screen. If it is, you can remove it by right clicking and selecting 'close toolbar'.
Thanks Welliesorter. That's what it was. Something else I hadn't come across before. (Didn't get any of these problems when I was working, and if I had done a quick call to IT was all that was required!)
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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It sounds like the task bar. - Just click on it and drag it to the bottom
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::timing::
Just not your day is it RF?!
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Its mark, he has put a delay on my ID.
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I'm pleased to report that tantrums have ceased. I can only assume that it was either a virus, or spyware as suggested by Mark. Over the last couple of days virus and spyware scans have been run both manually and as scheduled, and the PC gradually returned to normal ~ not suddenly but gradually. I'm baffled, but just very grateful that the status quo (how did they get in here?!) has been restored.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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I currenly have a CRT on a KVM switch to toggle between my laptop and my computer.
If I were to replace the CRT with a TFT with analogue and DVI, presumably I could plug the analogue into my laptop and the DVI into my computer, then switch systems on the screen? (I realise the keyb/mouse would require separate switching).
Could I use picture-in-picture to view both at once?
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I always thought the analog or DVI split was done with an adaptor plug, and so you can't plug the monitor into both and swap in software.
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"If I were to replace the CRT with a TFT with analogue and DVI, presumably I could plug the analogue into my laptop and the DVI into my computer, then switch systems on the screen?"
If as you say the screen has seperate DVI and Analogue sockets and it has a switch to switch between the two (some autoswitch) then yes the screen is capable. You would need however the DVI plugged into a DVI video card and the analogue plugged into an analogue card.
Picture in picture? nope sorry no way, the display electronics is one only I am afraid.
(
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I need to reclaim some desk space!
The CRT has to go. 17" TFT is fine for my needs, I don't do gaming but can envisage wathing the odd DVD or off-air broadcast via a tuner card on the PC so a reasonable refresh rate would be nice. I currently have some speakers but TBH I'd be quite happy to ditch these and settle for the less than audiophile experience that the speakers incorporated into some TFT screens have to offer.
I've seen this tinyurl.com/9w977 and it seems to offer everything I need, however there is no way of establishing whether the screen is any good or not over t'interweb thingy.
I wandered down to PC world but all the screens seemed to have been nobbled to give a horribly blurry experience (shielding on the leads? Poor source?
Any recommendations welcome.
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Yup thats fine its a good fast screen (10ms) and seems bright at 350 whotsits, Illyama is a good make. NEC make good ones.
See if you can get a look at a Sony screen (have them in John Lewis)
"I wandered down to PC world but all the screens seemed to have been nobbled to give a horribly blurry experience (shielding on the leads? Poor source?"
Probably set to the wrong resolution. If you choose to run your windows desktop at a different resoltuion to the monitors native resolution it has to interpolate (read make up pixels from more then one - read blurry)
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As an aside, rather thsn a recommendation (as that one looks fine), I have to say I was impressed by the middle one of these:
www.xerox-displays.info/xa7series.html
At 8ms it's the fastest I've heard of, and looked superb when playing games in the shop. The completely flat glass front looked very stylish too. Only problem is they seem to be as rare on the net as an online haircut and retail at over £300.
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Mike Farrow
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After RF was sooo rude about this computer the other day (which haso only just forgiven me...), I wondered whether it would be possible to make a difference.
It is Pentium III, 650 MHz, 64MB RAM, 20.5G HD (about 10% of which is used, and usage is unlikely to go up.) It has a label saying 'Spire PC' on the front. It runs ME Windows.
I took the top off, and removed the added optional dust, which revealed:
3 sets of plugs with 10 holes, then 30 holes, then 44, one set of which is occupied with a green board.
A vertical green board with a double row of 13 pins.
A socket with 18, then 31 holes.
A socket with 11, then 12 holes.
Three sockets with 11 then 48 holes.
A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing, but The Telegraph recently ran a series for novices on 'build your own pc' so it cannot be THAT difficult, can it?
Is it worth updating this system? It is fairly elderly, but £50 to put in 256k RAM sounds like a bargain if it will make a difference to the escargot-like running.
What please do I need, where do I get it from (I'm happy to pay a premium not to get it from eBay to be certain of the right bit of kit) and which of the above slots do I plug it into? And do I need to pull out the existing 64MB RAM?
Thank you!
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Mapmaker,
RAM sockets always have little clips either end to hold the memory in. You'll find empty ones next to a filled socket with a little luck. Take a look at www.primerpc.com/hardware/memory.htm for guideance. Particularly the point about DDRs having 1 notch and DIMM sockets having two. I suspect your PC will have standard DIMM sockets. DDR are rated as PC2100, PC2700, etc. DIMM are rated as PC100 or PC133.
RF does have a good point, as your PC is a lot older it will probably have DIMM and these aren't as cheap now as DDR.
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Mike Farrow
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Crucial RAM is often regarded as just about the best you can get. It comes with a lifetime guarantee to the original purchaser, yet isn't overpriced. If you go the website ( www.crucial.com/uk/index.asp ) there's a 'scan my system' utility. Last time I used it it invovled a small download of a bit of software. It will do just what it says and scan your PC and then tell you exactly which memory module(s) to buy for your PC. Couldn't be easier.
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HHM
Normally I would agree with you Crucial is good and if this was a bleeding edge machine that requires the best.
this machine is not much more than a boat anchor and v cheap second hand memory will do nicely
(specially as Mappy is renown as being as tight as a ducks botty)
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I will have a rummage in my spares box as I'm pretty certain I have some DIMM RAM from an old P3 kicking around.
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I will have a rummage in my spares box as I'm pretty certain I have some DIMM RAM from an old P3 kicking around.
I was thinking the same about some of my old junk but I reckon it's PC100, which may not work depending on bus speed.
Maybe a new website: www.give-pc.com?
:-)
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I would echo RFs sentiments re. Crucial memory. Yes it's cheap, but you will find a lot cheaper second hand or budget RAM from ebuyer. Use the crucial tool to find out what memory you need, I'd reckon it'll be PC133 DIMM, in which case there's plenty of second hand stuff floating about as it's quite old tech now. The piccys at the bottom of the page I gave the link to will help you indicate what each type of RAM looks like.
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Mike Farrow
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