****** This thread is now closed. Please see Volume 66, which is here:- ******
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=29518
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
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Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 65. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
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PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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If you have a missed call on CLI or mobile can you find out who the owner of the number is if its a land line without actually ringing them up and saying 'Hi, you've just ring me - who are you'?
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
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Isn't that what 1471 is for?
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Oops - retract that, I just re-read - you want to look up a name from a number.
ISTR that's called reverse look up, which isn't available on any free service to my knowledge. I remember seeing an ad in some motorway services toilets about a product that you could so this with, but it was £200 or more I think.
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1471 just tells you the number what E wants (if I've got it right) is who owns that number
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192.com
But you won't find me on there...
v
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This page enables you to look up partial codes, which will tell you town and operating company. But not user. I have a feeling it's not legal here. tinyurl.com/3g7cd
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I believe a version of UK Info-disk will perform reverse lookup.
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That's what I saw being advertised in the services...lot of money though.
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According to a spam today that sneaked in through work's Firewall
today there is a new version of info disc out. Check out e-bay fopr the old one cheap.
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This week I booked a UK weekend break over the internet direct with the holiday company.
On the quote page it showed the basic price, an internet discount and a school holiday discount marked as being 15%.
The holiday discount was actually calculated as 50% of the basic price. I got it to quote and re-quote several times, but the price came out the same so I paid it. I received an email confirmation of booking.
Today I received a booking confirmation by post marked fully paid.
Where do I stand if there has been an unintentional error in the pricing? (which would seem to be the case). If we turn up and present the confirmation on arrival could they refuse our booking and/or ask us to pay extra?
Thought I'd ask here before asking the holiday company!
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They quoted you a price - you paid it - they confirmed the booking and presumably debited your card. I would think that makes it a binding contract, unless one of the backroom legal team know different.
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have just e-mailed hj himself over a posting in which i asked a question, have asked if the posting could be removed as it may appear offensive although it is not meant to be wondered if i could have done this any other way, ie by asking a moderator can i do this and how do i do it if i can...cheers...keo
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Hi Keo,
You can e mail us all at once at moderators@honestjohn.co.uk, or individally.
Our E mails are as follows
Mark_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Alan_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Hugo_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Any one of us should be able to help you. If you write to the general address at the top It's usually the first one that sees his e mail that actions it:)
HTH
Hugo
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thanks Hugo hopefully it gets dealt with, but still handy for future refference, i am convinced my brain has gone on strike today...cheers...keo
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No probs,
If anyone is concerned about anything they have posted, just drop an e mail to the moderators@honestjohn.co.uk address.
One of us will take it from there. That doesn't mean to say we will delete it, sometimes a rewording may suffice for example.
Hugo
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I've been told that, for the purpose of determining the required cable size for an electric cooker, the rule of thumb for the current is 10amps, plus 30% of the difference between the full load current and 10 amps, plus 5 amps if the control box has a 13 amp socket. Could anyone confirm (or otherwise!) the validity of this?
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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L'escargot
What type of cooker is it? Is it a gas hob with an electric oven or a full electric cooker?
How many rings has it got and does it have an oven and a grille?
When you come back with this info I should be able to give you the information you're after for sure.
If you are planning to put in a cooker main direct from your consumer unit. Firstly you now need to inform the Building Control Office under Part P of the Building Regs - this came out the 1st of January. You will need to carry out an installation inspection and test IAW BS 7671 (16th edition IEE wiring regs) for that circuit.
From a practical point of view you will need at least 6mm T&E (twin and earth) cable and possibly 10mm.
The amps you mention do seem a bit low to me. For a cooker you're often looking at around a 32 amp breaker, and more if there is a socket attachd to the cooker point.
It all depends on the rating of the appliance you're using.
Answer my questions above and I'll take you from there.
Hugo
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What type of cooker is it? Is it a gas hob with an electric oven or a full electric cooker?
Thanks, Hugo.
It's a full all-electric cooker, 4 rings, grill, double oven, label says 11.7 kW. The control box has a 13 amp socket but this is never used. The cable from the cooker to the control box is currently 6 sq.mm.
We're considering getting a new cooker of similar size, and I'm questioning whether the cable from the cooker to the control box should be 10 sq.mm. The house electrics were checked by a qualified electrician a couple of years ago so I assume that the supply cable to the control box is adequate.
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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L'escargot
I'll do some diversity calcs and get back to you.
Hugo
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Right, in case there are any proper electricians out there I'll quote where I got the info from.
Table 1B in the On Site Guide Page stipulates for a household - paraphrased:
10 amps + 30% of full load of connected cooking appliances in excess of 10 amps, + 5 amps if socket outlet incorporated in control unit.
So for your cooker at 11.7 kw, divide that by 230v gives you 51 amps.
Take the first 10 amps then 30% of the rest (ie 41 amps) plus 5 amps for the socket.
That gives you 10 + 12.3 + 5 = 27.3 amps.
Your installation shuold be fitted with a 30 amp fuse of 32 amp breaker at the consumer unit for this installation and then cabled from the CU to the cooker point and then from there to the cooker with 6mm T and E cable.
From what you say the cable size is sufficient for your needs at the moment. However if you get a much more powerful cooker you may need to uprate this. You will need to check the fuse or breaker size. One option you have if you need to uprate the cooker significantly is to change your socketed cooker switch for one without a socket. That way you claw back 5 amps that can go towards the reuirement for you new cooker. It is not good enough for the regs just to say you don't use the socket. You will have to change it.
Cookers are not often a problem here for households. It's showers that are often the problem. Many 7.5 kw showers wired in with 6mm T and E are find until they are replaced with 8.5 or 9 kw. At this point the breaker and the cable should be uprated but often they are not. When te breaker (or fuse) keeps going the immediate reaction is to change it for a higher one. THAT IS THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO! The 6mm T and E circuit is now insufficiently protected, can overheat and cause a fire!
If anyone is wiring in a shower I would highly recommend they use 10mm T and E cable and a 45 amp pull switch. Even if they are only fitting a 7.5 kw shower this will enable a safe upgrade even by someone who is relatively unaware.
Hugo
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Good Morning Hugo,
Don't quote, but I think I am right in saying that as from 01.01.05 any electrical work that is caried out on any property should be carried out by an Electrician that is either time served and can provide the relevant doc's or more preferably one that is registered with the NICEIC. (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting), otherwise I have been informed that the local authority Building Inspector should inspect the works. God only knows what most of them will know about electrics. They don't even turn up for construction work around here due to staff shortages, BUT, they still take their fee! I am also led to believe that when a property is sold on, a new question will arise asking, "have any works of an electrical nature been carried out on this property since the above date and if so please provide proof of integrity etc etc." This matter was brought to light as I let a flat through an agent to somebody on benefits and the agent had to get clearance fom the local council that the sparks that I use could do the works. He is not currently with the NICEIC, but is qualified. However I think that as usual these new requirements are slow to get sorted, but I am convinced that NICEIC or similar will be a standard requirement when they get up to speed.
More compliance, but maybe justified this time. I have seen some diabolical wiring in my time.
Regards as ever. Martin.
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Personally I?m not in favour with continual state interference in every aspect of what we can or can?t do. One could make a good case for only qualified and currently registered Electricians to carry out work but where does it end. There are other tasks where an organisation could make a case that only themselves should be allowed to do there type of work, on the grounds of H&S and no doubt will do so in the future.
Should you be allowed to do your own car maintenance?. Should we have a Council employed qualified mechanic inspect and issue a certificate certifying it has been carried out correctly. Far more danger from a vehicle and there are so many tasks which enterprising people carry out either for the pleasure or simply for the economics of doing so.
This latest one is going to result in more people being employed by local authority, as a Building Inspector will not have the necessary qualifications to inspect and certify electrical work.
I suspect other trade and organisations will be lobbying in the future for legislation that only there own members should be allowed to carry out this work.
In the past it was sufficient that the person carrying out the work was competent and could satisfy this requirement.
In the future many small home repair and improvement people may require paper qualifications in several trades.
alvin
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This came up in the last IHAQ thread, under Part P changes.
I am also completely against this type of regulation. Membership of a trade body is absolutely no proof of quality of installation however convenient it is as a means of discriminating against cowboy operators. Some of the best electrical installation work I have seen has been diy by a knowledgable but unqualified amateur working closely from the OSG and 16th Ed regs. The qualified sparkies who wired my house should have taken a look at his work before wiring my house.
StarGazer
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Guys,
I could discuss this for hours, but we really ought to keep this thread to specific questions.
If you want to join in one of several well informed debates, click on the following link, go to the Talk option, then go to Electricians Talk.
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/home-main.jsp;jsessio...0
I visit this site regularly. E mail me if you can identify me there:) (e mail in profile).
H
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Martin,
Sorry I haven't replied to you on this subject, since it was perhaps a question:)
What you say is correct in priciple.
The local authority will need to get involved if work is done by anyone other than a registered sparky. However my local authority have stated that if I write in with my qualifications (just passed the 2391 and have the 2381) they will take a different view with us. I guess we'll still have to serve a building notice in the same way though.
Having said I don't want to discuss this here, I will say this: This perhaps brings electrical into line with most other trades. Building regs applies equally to all of us for say laying a floor, or opening up a doorway in a supporting wall. The sparkeys are all complaining now because their work too will come under scrutiny, whereas it is really done to outlaw bad DIY.
Hugo
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I have been employed by a government department for the last 12 years. They have provided a non-contributory pension scheme which at the time of joining came with the job.
I was offered a new job on Friday there which I think I am going to accept, subject to the clarification of a few issues.
I have never had cause to resign from a company before, so I am somewhat unsure about what happens to the 12 years accrued on the pension front.
Is it likely I can retain the same pension and make the payments myself, bearing in mind the new companys pension scheme is voluntry.
Do the 'funds' get transferred to my new pension?
Or does it become suspended as at the time of resignation?
My other consideration is that if I apply for a career break for three years just in case the new job doesn't work out, what happens then about pensions, but also do I have to return from my career break in order to resign.
I know my HR department should be addressing all these questions, I have asked them to clarify, but historically I have found them to be a bit unsure themselves.
Anyone able to comment or advise?
Thanks in advance.
Leon
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What about your Union/Staff Association ?
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Staff association - don't have one - or if we do it operates as a secret society, not heard of it in 12 years.
Packed them in because on the one occasion where I asked for advice they were not exactly keen to rush to my aid. The responses I did eventually recieve from them were diametric opposites. Any info they passed on to me now would have to be verified before I would accept it as valid.
Leon
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If the pension is the standard Civil Service pension scheme then the final pension will be calculated as 12/80ths of your final salary. This will be uprated by the cost of living every year so your pension at retirement age under this scheme (60?) will retain its spending power. If I were you I would leave this pension where it is. It is backed by the government as is copper-bottomed, it does not depend on stock market or other investments as virtually all other pensions do these days. You could, if you wish, get the value of the pension transferred to your new scheme, which is liable to be a defined contribution scheme whereas the CS one is defined benefit.
I believe that if you take a career break, your pension is suspended for the period of your break but you can resume it when you restart work.
Your HR dept should have a booklet explaining all this, indeed you should have received one when you joined the department.
Please take some unbiased advice i.e. not from someone who sells pension products. If you are in a union, try them.
My disclaimer - this posting is based on the scheme in the dept I was in a few years ago. It could possibly be different where you are or may have changed since I last worked there.
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"Is it likely I can retain the same pension and make the payments myself"
No you cant.
You can leave the pension where it is, as is, and take it when you retire. Satrt a new pension with your new company.
or
You can probably take a lump sum from your old pension and put it in your new one.
Your old pension is a "defined contribution" ie it will pay a % of your salary. Its likely the new one with your new company will be a "money purchase" scheme and will pay out what your invested money earns. A poor substitute for a defined contribution.
As its all very variable, dependent on your age, what the old scheme was like, what the new one is like, and how much to contribute then you need to take financial advice.
ND? where are you?
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God damn it RF
For defined contribution read "defined benefit"
say 1000 times..........
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Leon, what Nick tells you is all correct. You will indeed receive 12/80ths when you retire. And as he advises don?t even think about transferring even if this is possible.
However you should have recently received details of changes being made in the Principal Civil Service Pension Scheme. (PCSPS). Do a Google search and you will find a lot of information. tinyurl.com/5xjvu is the capita site.
They should recently have asked you to decide on one of two options for the future. I didn?t study the details which my daughter showed me but every one who is in the scheme should have received it.
I receive this pension and it is excellent in all aspects. You can when approaching pensionable age buy extra years if you choose. At present it is being run by Capita Hartshead on behalf of the Paymaster.
If you can get no information from your local branch association or personnel Officer you can give Capita a ring for information on 0870 1699700 or e-mail csp.enquiries@capita.co.uk
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There's lots (326 pages, in fact) of information on occupational pensions at http:/www.inlandrevenue.gov.uk/pensionschemes/guidance.htm
However, if you want to get quickly to the nitty gritty then inlandrevenue.gov.uk/ir2.pdf is a better bet.
Most people know that there are limits on pension contributions, but very few seem to know that there are also limits on benefits. An important factor is that the length of service in your last job/pension scheme can limit your pension. Everyone in an occupational pension should bone up on the facts before they find out that they have left it too late!
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L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Everyone in anoccupational pension should bone up on the facts before they find out that they have left it too late!
Correction:-
Everyone in an occupational pension scheme.......
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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This will make me and my wife look gullible fools but I hope we will learn from it and it may help others not to make the same errors. I would also appreciate any advice on what we can do about it (not much I suspect!)
It?s a long story but as briefly as possible. We have had our eyes on a new caravan of a particular make and model for a couple of years but list price was a bit high. On 15th Jan I found a 2004 model on a main dealer?s website (dealer is owned by caravan manufacturer) ? brand new from the factory at a good price. Went to dealers (50 miles away) looked at van and said we wanted it. Salesman asked what we had to trade in. We told him ? he said he would give us £4000 for it. Did it have any damp he asked. Not as far as we knew ? in fact the van was in virtually perfect condition inside we replied. Difference to pay would be £7500.
So, 2 weeks later we turned up to pick up new van. Salesman would have a quick look over our trade in while we had the new van explained to us. This took an hour, new towball fitted to our car, gas bottle and connector bought and fitted to van and van hitched to car. Salesman appeared and said there were some ?issues? with our trade in so we went back to the office. He plonked a bill for £3000 in front of us. ?This is how much it would cost to repair your van ? it?s riddled with damp. I will show you.? Took us out, showed us a hole in side of van ? said the aluminium had oxidised with damp, he had pushed his thumbnail through it. He walked away when he couldn?t repeat the ?thumbnail? trick, was unimpressed when I pointed out that the hole was screwdriver shape and when I couldn?t push my penknife into the aluminium.
We were given 5 minutes to make a decision. Our van was ?worthless? and would probably end up with a ?disreputable dealer? or ?the gipsies?. By this time I was speechless (not a frequent occurrence) and my wife in tears. They would be generous and allow us £1000 in p/ex. Difference to pay had gone up from £7500 to £10,150. This is where we should have walked out but, van was the one we wanted, as far as we knew it was one of only two available in the country. I handed over my debit card ? we drove off with the van. We had completed the contract.
Last week, we went back, asked various questions, were told the hole was there when we took it in (strange ? the salesman told us his thumbnail had done it), said we were very upset at the way we had been treated and felt cheated etc. Were told our van was now in another dealer?s 50 more miles away. We went and saw him ? nice young chap, said he had nearly finished repairing it (in 3 or 4 days?) but it was in storage away from his workshop (repairing it away from his workshop?), hadn?t noticed the hole in the side. Had known the manager of the main dealers for 15 years ? used to work with him and they are friends.
Anyway, the caravan that was worthless, needed £3000 worth of work doing, would end up with a disreputable dealer then with a gipsy, is now (nine days later) on his website and forecourt at a price of £4995.
Anything we can do? I know we should not have driven off ? in doing so we accepted the contract and haven?t a leg to stand on with regard to consumer rights/legal action.
I have deliberately not mentioned any names/locations but if you are currently thinking of buying a 4/5 berth caravan in the Midlands, (perfect inside) for £4995 (but really ?riddled with damp and fit only for the gipsies?) please ask mods for my e-mail so I can tell you where it is!! Please no posts about gullible fools!!!
Sorry for long post.
Phil
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There are things you can do, but this isn't the place for such advice. You need good, solid, professional advice. You're probably only going to get one shot at them.
You've got a chunk of change at stake, so take yourself straight off to a good solicitor and pay for some advice.
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Thanks Mark - we have rung Caravan Club legal advice and been told (more or less) that we should not have taken the new caravan since that meant we had accepted the contract. But if we hadn't, that would have meant (we did at least read the small print!) that we would have lost £250 deposit and been charged £750 cancellation of order fee. Felt we couldn't win!! And the nice new caravan was all hitched up!
I know what you mean about "things you can do" but I don't fancy a criminal record!!
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I think the Caravan Club is wrong. I think they're looking in the wrong place.
They are thinking that your main complaint is that you made a bad deal. There is little or no protection in law if you simply made a bad deal.
However, if that deal involved misrepresentation or dishonesty then the question is different.
>>?This is how much it would cost to repair your van ? it?s riddled with damp.
>>said ... he had pushed his thumbnail through it.
>>Our van was ?worthless?
These would seem to be three dubious statements. I would consult a lawyer and discuss that point. Even if your lawyer feels the point is dodgy, an extremely heavy letter from him could make a differnce.
DO go to a lawyer. Others may disagree but I feel that there is a reason that free legal advice is free. Go and get some good old-fashioned, quality, paid for stuff. You're only betting another few quid against the potential of getting a whole lot back.
But I would guess that speed is of the essence.
Mark.
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Thanks again Mark. Will act on your advice first thing tomorrow - will let you know the result!
Mind you - I wish I had recorded what he had said - I'm afraid that we have no proof that the salesman actually said/did those things (apart from the fact that even now I can hear his exact words in my head!!). I was so upset that I forgot I had my digital camera in my pocket and could have taken a photo of "the hole"!
I have the feeling that these people have little conscience and would lie (again) to save face.
I'll give it a go with our solicitor though.
Phil
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im sure pu will have a say but
basic contract law has it that any contract entered where the other party is knowingly commiting a crime, which could be extortion, criminal damage etc is void
as such you can challenge its terms
i would take this stance with the credit card company, challenge the charge, and force them to chase trader for money
and seek legal advice asap
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i notice u used a debit card rather than a credit card, which sadly probably does not confer rights under consumer credit law
regardless of this i would call this extortion and refuse to pay debit card firm, let them take the heat
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I think John is referring to my post "A cautionary Tale" - but I think I might be a bit late to cancel Debit card transaction even if possible
Phil
{I've sorted out where John's post should have been posted, and also moved this one so that it all makes sense - hopefully! DD}
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u could also try trading standards dept at local council
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I would recommend a brief as well. Seems a tad unsatisfactory. You need to sit down and write a full chronological account of what happened nclude any documentary evidence including prints from the website. This will reduce any unnecessary (and potentialy costly) visits. It may be worth putting your complaint in writing to the company concerned. Another option is to visit your local CAB and Trading Standards dept.
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Thanks for replies/advice - have contacted a solicitor this morning and it was suggested that I should contact trading standards as a first step - am going to do that in a few minutes - will keep you updated.
PU have already done as you advise with regard to account, website print etc.
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Well guys - I had a long chat to very nice lady at Trading Standards and basically I have been the "victim" of sharp practise but nothing illegal. I could pursue it through the courts and there is a possibility of success but it would cost more than I would receive. My fatal move was to hand over payment - at that point I accepted a new contract. Up to that point I could have said to them that they had agreed to the £4000 trade in, the new caravan was hitched to the back of my car and the hole and "damp" was in "their" caravan and here is the £7500, I'm off with my new caravan. This is probably why they only gave us 5 mins to think rather than a bit longer!
Trading Standards also said I was free to publish/mention name of the traders involved as long as I was factual but I won't do that on here. But ND, if you are thinking about buying a caravan (!!) in Telford, don't before consulting me - it's either very good or "riddled with damp and fit only for the gipsies".
Guess we have to bite the bullet and say our old van had more than paid for itself in terms of the holidays we have had and we have a nice new one to go on holiday this year - and when I am sitting outside it, in the sun, with a bottle of beer and a wine somewhere in Europe this summer I probably won't care.
Thanks for your help - and don't get caught - there are some sharp characters out there with little conscience and a penchant for parting you from your money - and they know what they are doing.
Thanks again
Phil
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Spend a few quid and get your solicitor to send then a really heavy letter. Also copy them on the letter that you sent to the local newspaper, the caravan manufacturers and the caravan club (whether you did or not).
Don't give up just yet.
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Mark,
The letters from Mr Angry (aka Mr & Mrs PhilW) are already composed ! Manufacturers (who own the dealers), Caravan Club, National Caravan Council, Watchdog, every caravan website I can find, Coventry local paper, Telford local paper etc etc - not going to give up yet! Also another visit to the dealers on Saturday (unannounced)to confront salesman and manager and appeal to their consciences (!!- fat chance!) and also inform them that we are in consultation with solicitors and Trading Standards. Rather hoping that we can interrupt salesman in middle of new sale and say "you know our caravan that you said was worthless and which you gave us virtually nothing for - well it's for sale for £4995 at your mate's"
If I can stop one sale by them it will make me happier!
We may be mugs, but we are angry mugs!
Any other suggestions?
Actually - just writing these things on HJ website helps me get it off my chest!!
thanks for reading!!
Phil
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i think trading standards have given pretty poor advice
what a lot of tosh
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John,
can you expand on that? Any other things you know we could do?
Ta
Someone mentioned a "14 day cooling of period" but I don't think it applies here does it?
Any suggestions for(legal) action appreciated!
But sometimes you have to admit that you've been a mug and been outwitted - especially if you are too trusting. We reckoned these people were honourable - but as the manager said "we are here to make a profit" (We feel like making a banner to put outside his salesroom with "at your cost " on the end!)
Phil
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I'm glad I've got my solicitor rather than yours.
I can see how there is not a strict legal point or misbehaviour that would make it a clean cut case. (Although I would think that John's mates at the local County Court would look pretty favourably upon your circumstance).
I would have expected your solicitor to have taken you through the different avenues and approaches that may have an effect and have been proactive in taking it forward.
So, for what its worth;
Firstly, IMO a letter from you to the garage will have no effect and you turning up on a visit will really have no effect at all. Both of those actions will make them feel they have seen the worst they have to fear. What did you think ? That they would be shocked at how mean they'd been and repent ? If you have genuinely been ripped off, and only you know whether or not you have, then I'd guarantee you're not the only one. Why should they be scared of you ?
Because you are trouble. You're not going to go away and you are going to cause them every problem that you can conceivably think of. Because win or lose the storm is just going to be awful and half the world is going to hear about it.
A solicitor's letter, certainly a stroppy one, will as a minimum put this thought in their minds "I think I can win, but I might not but win or lose I'm going to spend a chunk of change and get a whole bunch of hassle out of this, and worst case a bunch of publicity.
Copies of letters from you to various organisations will help them understand what that publicity is going to be like. I would expect your letters to say something along the lines of "this garage did this and behaved likes this and I'm gonna sue them".
You need your solicitor's help to write something that they will be prepared to publish.
You need to make him think that a couple of grand to make you go away is cheap.
Look at it this way; does he advertise on the local radio, in the local rag or similar ? If so, he spends money on advertising to promote his reputation and people's perception of him. How much will he spend to prevent you tearing that down ?
My solicitor is a devious, mercenary, git of dubious morality who would follow a farthing down a drain. However I love him dearly and always buy lunch when we are together. Over the [many] years he has saved or made me a serious chunk of change.
He doesn't just tell me the black and white situation, he helps me deal with the real world. You should try and find someone like him and then set him on the garage; as a spectator sport it has no equal.
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Phil,
Before you send your letter - read, alter and re-read it. Don't fire from the hip.
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Mark,
Please e-mail me name of your solicitor ASAP!!
I take your points - and will re-read them several times to make sure I have them - visit to dealer on Saturday is seen as a warning shot that solicitors and trading standards are involved. I don't think dealers are taking us seriously at the moment but hope to show that we are stubborn so-and-sos and are not going to give up easily - we thought face to face might emphasise this - we are not afraid to say it to their faces. Phone call to my solicitors this morning was to explain situation to them and I have said I will be in contact again on Monday (sending letter in meantime).
I have no doubt that the dealers are well practised in this.
PU
Thanks for response - we take your point also -it has already been written, edited etc several times!
Thanks for help (yet again!)
Phil
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I put up my first ever item on ebay for sale, a bike. I also put this in the local free rag. It sold instantly from the rag. There have been no bids via ebay (yet).
How do I cancel this sale (I did not mention in the ebay advert that it was for sale elsewhere as, at that time, it wasn't!)
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Not sure you can cancel an eBay auction but you should modify the description in BIG LETTERS to say the item is no longer available. This would be Bad Form if there were bids, but with no bids I think you will get away with it. You'll still have to pay the listing fee.
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pages.ebay.co.uk/help/sell/end_early.html
explains all. Done it myself. Easy!
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mfarrow,
Thanks for that, I spent a full hour trawling the site last night trying to find out how to do it!
Thanks again.
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Thanks for that,
Glad to help!
I spent a full hour trawling the site last night trying to find out how to do it!
I know how you feel, ebay help search isn't the best thing to use! I'd bookmark it for future use like I have, otherwise it takes hours as you say trying search strings like "removing an item", "ending an item early", "cancel an auction", "removing an auction", "ending item no longer for sale", all to no avail!
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SWMBO is keen to go there on holiday. Any advice greatfully accepted including on best routes (air wise) and can one cross the land border these days. Thanks in advance.
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you can only go via turkey at present and you can cross the border but you cant stay overnight, why not go cyprus itself beautifull country most speak english and they drive on the same side of the road as us and you are guaranteed the weather.if you do go to northern cyprus avoid getting your passport stamped on the turkish side as they dont like it very much on the greek side . the north is very poor and you will only really see the tourist parts which are obviously not so poor but on the greek side you will see so much moreif you dont like the heat avoid late july and august it is hot. if you do visit and decide to do a cross border trip do not buy anything on the other side as it will be confiscated on return ...cheers...keo
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I am having a problem with the owners of the next door property. They keep trying to expand their boundary into my land.
Our house is on a corner at the end of a line of terraced houses, and the boundary has always been understood to run straight through the dividing wall of the houses to the lane ( so perpendicullar to the front of their house, we benefited from the corner). At the front of the house is a strip of land about a yard wide. Next door was sold last year to an amateur property developer. they have tarted it up and did tidy the strip of garden at the front. However they have extended their garden by a triangle to take up to 2 feet of my strip making the bounday now perpendicular to the front of my property. I complained verbally when they did this and they assured me that they were not expanding just tidying etc. They replaced some of the brick edging between the lane and the strip of land.
I left it at that, but they keep removing anything that I put down as a boundary marker where the boundary was and have put down gravel up to their new boundary. When I sweep that off they put it back.
This is really annoying me. I suspect that legal action will be expensive and not worth while (the houses are pre 1800 and the diagrams on the deeds are non too clear to work from at the scale we have).
I am goping to contact the previous owner (of next door)and ask for a statement about the boundary location.
What else should I or could I do ?
Thanks
Mark
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Inspect the deeds for the house wherein there may be a plan showing boudaries.
Consider looking at what is registered at HM Land Registry which also may have a defining bourdary map. Seephone book for your local Office.
DVD
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You need to go to CAB or to a brief. Are either properties registred with the land registry ? Seems like a degree of territorial ambition if I'm not mistaken. Good idea to contact the previous owner. Have you spoken to the neighbour yet ?..these things can esclate if you're not careful.
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Thanks
So far as I can tell the deeds support my interpretation. Complicating factor is that at some point next door was part of my property and was split away in the 1940's. The land registry drawings that I have seen (reduced (?) photocopies) do not totally accuratly reflect the shape of the buildings. I think both properties are registered with land registry, does that mean they will have better drawings that the ones I have ?
I guess I speak to the last owner and see where we go from there.
I am hoping that they will be putting it up for sale soon since a boundary dispute would (I assume) scupper a sale and therefore they should stop being so damned difficult.
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It needs to be sorted though - for your on good.
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Without touting for work (as a Chartered Surveyor) it sounds like you need a good lawyer and surveyor to assist you if the other party do not agree.
If you have household insurance, it may pay for you to appoint a lawyer and surveyor. contact www.rics.org for the details of a boundary dispute expert surveyor. My partner is one, but we will only cover Greater Manchester, for cost reasons.
For £4 you can get your registered title and title plan from the Land Registry. Google HM Land Registry and find the electronic title section.
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
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www.landregisteronline.gov.uk/
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Do you mean by "amateur property developer" they are intending to sell it soon? If so they have to declare any dispute etc with you and that will be a problem for them, and they will have to get it sorted out. However it is a double-edged sword if you intend to sell!! If you don't want the expense of a solicitor, I would send them a letter outlining your objection.
My experience of the deeds for old properties is that it is usually impossible to define accurate borders.
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Spot on Cardew. I have advised many people on this, and have taken a few cases to court. The boundary line is rarely clear, particularly if the properties are unregistered and you are relying on old deeds. Even then, there are adverse possession arguments. The land registry also make mistakes, and just because they might say the boundary is in one place, they is not necessarily right.
My advice is always that if the neighbour wants to have a dispute then that is their right, but they must be prepared to spend serious moeny for lawyers, surveyors and court fees. There can be no guarantee of winning and if the case is defended the total costs bill will be several thousand pounds. One of my cases ended up with my clients' neighbours going to jail for pully up a hedge!
I also point out to clients how difficult it can be to sell a house where there has been a dispute with the neighbours, particularly over a boundary. If you do not intend moving any time soon, write a stiff letter to them. They will then know that if they do not disclose the matter to whoever they sell the house to (or resolve the dispute with you in the meantime) they have blighted their property. If you are selling any time soon, then do nothing unless the corner they have pinched has an effect on the value of your house.
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I am a surveyor and regularly deal with boundary disputes. The Lawman and Cardew are absolutely right. The first advice I give to anybody disputing a foot of land is don't make it official.
If you really are wronged and must make a stand, the best way is to play them at their own game - but what ever you do don't start instructing a brief or writing to your MP. The moment you do that you will have to declare it when you sell and buyers will run a mile when they know there is a boundary dispute.
I would put up a fence (or better still a wall) along the line that you think is the boundary and let them make the first move. If they are wanting to sell and move on they will not want to get involved in a dispute for the same reason.
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Why is it that dark coloured drinks i.e. cola/dandilion & birdock have small bubbles that take a dogs age to fizz down, and light cloured drinks i.e. lemonade/iron brew have large bubbles that fizz down quickly?
Not the biggest of lifes questions, but bugging me none the less.
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Not to mention Guinness...
Sorry I don't know the answer - interesting observation, though!
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Stab at it -
Possibly the density of the liquid. Brown stuff puts a thicker coat round the bubble than a white one so the white self destructs quicker?
Which is why they use oil in a spirit level for the bubble???
Could be wrong as my PhD is only for polishing hoovering and dusting.
DVD
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Washing-up liquids have foam stabilizers which have no other purpose. No one would buy them if they didn't foam. Perhaps some drinks are similarly adulterated.
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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I had a glass of Keg Shandy earlier and that had big bubbles.
Also got thinking whilst drinking it, the shandy was 0.5% alcohol maximum - how much would i need to drink before i was over the drink drive limit?
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I have both types and, while I am aware of the lesser 'memory effect' of NimH over NiCad I wonder whether deep cycling is also beneficial with NimH?
Also, should I be charging NimH with my bog-standard NiCad charger, or splash out on one that actually mentions NimH on the box?
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should I be charging NimH with my bog-standard NiCad charger, or splash out on one that actually mentions NimH on the box?
A NimH one is better because the charge endpoint detection works differently, with NimHand, and ensures a more complete/better charge.
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I wonder whether deep cycling is also beneficial with NimH?
I've nearly always treated NiMH's the same as NiCad's. That being I generally run them flat before recharging.
Also, should I be charging NimH with my bog-standard NiCad charger, or splash out on one that actually mentions NimH on the box?
A NiCad charger is purely for charging NiCad's only, whereas a NiMH charger with do both types. I beleive the charging technique for NiMH's is different.
I got my recent NiMH charger from Lidl's for £3.99 (make Tronic). It has an adjustable timer, battery tester, discharger facility for Nicad's. Can charge up to 4 batteries ranging from AAA's right through to D cells. It can also charge PP3's as well. As Lidl cycle their non food items round every few months, the offer is bound to come up again soon, I would imagine.
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The more sophisticated NiCad chargers run through a discharge procedure to ensure the batteries are fully discharged - not easy if individual batteries are at different states of charge.
My experience with both NiCads and NiMH has been bad as they never seem to hold their charge. For my digital camera I always use dry batteries now.
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NimH batteries are exactly the opposite to NiCad and do not like to be overworked. To get the maximum life from NimH batteries you should never run them fully flat or overcharge them. I know it goes against what we are used to but tis true.
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Hi
First time I've had to fix a leaking tap before, but I just can't seem to find the washer!
The tap is a fairly new and cheap one (leaked after less than a year!). Once the cap and tap cover are removed, I'm faced with a chrome tap "outer stem" which screws into the chamber with a 19mm spanner head. Poking out the top of this is a brass "inner stem" with a circlip holding it in position, which I removed to get the "outer stem" off. The only problem now is I can't get this "inner stem" out its chamber, it seems too big to get past the thread. It just rattles around but won't pull out. I presume it's suppose to?
Any ideas?
Mike Farrow
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mf, Don't recognise your description if its a conventional washered tap. However many modern taps are ceramic disk, and they don't have a washer and are totally different to a conventional one.
Won't try to describe one as it would be difficult but in these type you replace the entire head which you have taken out.
I would take it to a plumbers merchant and ask for a replacement. They will advise on the correct one and they aren't all the same. Most I have seen are Italian made and they don't seem to have a common standard.
Have a look on Google for ceramic disk taps and you may find some info there.
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Had the same problem with a ceramic type mixer tap, couldn't get a replacement head for love nor money and had to buy a complete new tap. £49 to fix a drip, not funny.
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B&Q sell complete replacement "innards" (but without the top) for both ceramic and conventional washer type taps. Approx £5-£6 either type, for one tap.
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Has any Backroomer had experience of a gas combi boiler? I'm interested in learning about their performance and any operating problems. I've heard that the flow rate can be very low, resulting in a large temperature drop from the boiler to the taps and running a bath taking an eternity. I realise that combi boilers are fuel-efficient, but for me that isn't the be-all and end-all. A water heating system has to be user-friendly too.
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Had combi installed when we moved to our present home some six years ago. A lot depends on the pressure of the mains supply to your house. If low you will get poor flow. The distance from boiler to outlets is also a major factor. This is because the pipe run from boiler to tap has to empty all the cold/cool water before you receive any hot. All my runs are v.short so this is no problem for me but a friend who has long pipe runs has to wait some time before receiving any hot water at his outlets. Have had a couple of breakdowns in this time. Total cost of repairs (diy) amounts to £57.00 Fuel efficiency is 1st class. Shower is Thermostatic mixer and is almost as good as many Power showers I have used.
HtH Phil I
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Should have mentioned is Halstead Finest (seemed to be only Uk Mfr available at time).
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I have both, a conventional boiler with tank and a combi in an annex.
The combi is not bad at filling a bath - but not excellent - and is more than adequate for a shower. IIRC you can set a priority so if central heating is on, the hot water takes priority.
I actually have a problem with a slow flow rate with the conventional system. As Phil states I think it is more to do with pipe runs and the height of the header tank.
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When making on offer (with serious intentions) on a house, what percentage below the asking price would you make your initial offer?
(Yup, you guessed it, I'm considering making an offer on a house that has a combi boiler!)
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L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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No set answer. What have other houses recently sold for, what condition is it in, how long has it been on the market, what are the circumstances for selling (the three ds - death, debt and divorce usually mean the sellers wants to get rid quickly)? Find all these out then you can make an informed decision.
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Bloke I knew in Manchester had a business based on this. He used to write a standard letter to people offering them 50% of their asking price for a cash purchase which he would complete within a week. He'd then sell it at 75%.
He reckoned that about 1 in 1000 people took him up one it. As he said "You have no way of knowing why someone is selling a house" so he used that to his advantage. It all depends on how much you want the house and how much they want to sell it.
V
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If it has been sold since 2000 you can see what the present owners have paid for it which is a useful thing to know in yr negotiations.
Pundits on property have suggested 70% of the asking price as a good starting point.
www.mouseprice.com/?id=google2
Good luck. Phil I
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That's an interesting site Phil. Quick question if I may. Having put my own house details in, it came up with a deed date of 21 Feb 2001, when we actually bought the house 10 October 2001. Any idea why that might be? I suppose the previous owner may have only had it for 8 months, but then why doesn't their listing bring up the most recent sale?
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OK, ignore me. Despite reading the list through carefully 3 times I managed to miss the second entry for my house. Sorry.
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Making an offer?
It is very variable and entirely dependent on prevailing market conditions.
When the market is slow as now how well a house maintains its price is dependent on post code (for schools and things) presentation and desireability. One nicely presented house in a post code may sell at its asking price, another badly presented in the same post code wont sell at all.
so the price you offer is dependent on how long its been on the market. if its been on for three months or more you can jump in with offers 10-15% below and stick to it.
some areas are now suffering from "guzundering" (same as guzumping only the other way round) get all the way down the house buying chain and processs and at the last moment say you want 10% off or you are pulling out.
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