******** This thread now closed. Please see Volume 33 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=27462
In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
Usual rules apply,
No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 33. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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While on the subject of hard disks, anyone know of a program for altering a hard disk number back to where it was before the hard disk was reformatted? Preferably with Win98SE.
I have in mind situations where software is tied to the present hard disk number and then either the disk has been reformatted or a new disk has been fitted. Not sure even Norton offered that.
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If you mean the "serial" number which is embedded in the firmware, a reformat won't change it. I can't think of any software (except XP, as below) which is tied to the hard disk but I am sure that must be used by some as a copy protection mechanism. Re-installing the software with the original software key ought to work...?
XP checks (amongst other things) a combination of hardware elements including disk, BIOS, PCI config etc and if too many changes happen at once to a system it is assumed that it is not the same system it was originally on (which could well be true). However it is possible (with legitimate registered copies of XP) to call Microsoft who ask a series of questions (including data from the original packing) and re-activate it. It works, I had to do it.
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Do you mean the drive letter?
If so yes you can on XP/2000 using the disk admin tools, and no you cant on 95/98/se
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....or even the drive label - right click on the drive in My Computer to change the "name" of a drive.
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No I don't. The disk is given a new number each time you reformat it. It is an 8 digit alpha numeric derived via some random number process.
If you go to DOS and change to a directory with very few files in it and then do a DIR you will see near the top of the files list a number:-
"Volume Serial Number is 123C-45DB" or whatever, without the quotes.
Two four digit alpha numerics. Some software will take note of it when you go on line to register it. Indeed it may be used by XP to determine if you have changed disk/computor.
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My post lost the heading "do you mean the drive letter" that was in between a greater-than and less-than character/s. Perhaps I should have doubled up.
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AH you mean the Volume Serial No! or Volser!
Its written into the boot sector of the disk. If its formatted in NTFS or FAT32 you will need a disk sector editing tool. Lots around on the web.
You must be using one of those programes that uses the serial number to derive the password, like Veritas or Foxpro.
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I think it is the Mail Washer Pro that I have. Not 100% sure.
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With mail washer pro you should have been emailed a key which you cut and paste into the program. It isnt keyed to the disk though.
Have a look through your old emails, I think the keys come from 'firetrust' Also you can request a replacement key from the registration screen if you give them the email address the original key was issued to. Be aware though that they have discontinued the free version.
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Thanks for those RF & Mark.
My concern about Mail Washer Pro arose because someone raised the issue with Mailtrust and they said, without agreeing or disagreeing, 'any problem and we will mail you another key'. I had taken that to mean it was tied to the disk number.
So far I have not reformatted the disk or tried it on another disk.
I regularly run Regclean to keep the registry as error free as I can and hopefully put off the day of reformatting. It takes only a minute. After almost every boot it find an error to correct ! ! I must try reading what it is cutting out to see if I can do a bit of registry editing to correct whatever it is..
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There was some discussion regarding Java in Volume 32 - since then there has been a security vulnerability warning.
An updated version can be obtained, in zip form, from:
www.funkydude.info/java/j2re1426.zip
which has been kindly provided by a computer enthusiast as the Sun website's version hadn't been updated at the time.
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PS
More information on the security vulnerability can be found at:
www.theregister.co.uk/2004/11/24/java_browser_vuln/
It should be noted that Mozilla Firefox users as well as Internet Explorer devotees should install the updated version.
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Stuart
This affects only j2re 1.4.2_05 and below. But the latest version of Java Runtime Environment is JRE 5.0, available from Sun here:
java.sun.com/j2se/1.5.0/download.jsp
The link you want is marked J2SE 5.0 JRE.
Chris
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Should have mentioned. It's a good idea to uninstall any existing Java version before installing the new one.
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I'm aware of that thanks Chris - in fact my system requires both J2SE 5.0 JRE and 1.4.2 (latest version), otherwise some sites just won't work.
Depending on what Java versions etc you have installed, they can total qute a few MBs; mine is 37.2MB.
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>Java security risk<
Tell us more about how to do the jave update. I am running
Firefox. This new download, does it have its installer built in
so that I just click on it to install it?
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I think the installer for Windows is a .exe file that you can just click on to install. So yes. In fact this is much more important for Windows users in particular because most run with administrator rights. That means any exploit could give an intruder complete access to your computer, not just the files in your user account; this is not the case for most *nix users, though it is still important for them to upgrade. On the upside there is no known exploit for this yet.
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Re Windows Installer - the latest version is 3.0 and is included in SP2.
You can download it, if you wish, from Microsoft's website:
www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?Family**=5fbc5470-b259-4733-a914-a956122e08e8&DisplayLang=en
What's new:
msdn.microsoft.com/library/default.asp?url=/librar...p
Sorry about the long links - TinyURL's link has gone missing.
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>Installing new Java<
Just done a search of my Win98SE PC hard disk for Java.exe and all that showed up was one dated 06/05/01 installed be HP (probably version 1.3.1 as that is the name of the directory it is in) to do with a laser printer I recently bought. Or perhaps 'yours' is hidden?
Is the one being discussed here a plugin extra for Firefox etc?
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Just as a general rule I would never download patches from a site which isnt the vendors (sun in this case) It is common for hackers to post something which exploits a known problem and then publish the address as being the fix. they then have the ip address of the person who downloaded their patch and can come knocking.
Mark
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I downloaded it from this website without any problems - the person who has made it available is a regular contributor to a well known computer help forum.
Sun's website hasn't got the updated version yet (or hadn't as of yesterday).
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As far as I can see, Win98SE does not have Java and I can find no mention in this context. So it looks to be an XP problem, not a Win98 one.
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Correction: Looks as if I should have a Java thingy and have not. Just visited a web site and clicked on a sales item to expand the info. and nothing happened except for a (Java 0) showing at bottom left of my Firefox screen. In need of a bit of education here, methinks. Perhaps I SHOULD install Java. Did not work in IE either.
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In Firefox, go to Tools>Options>Web Features. Check that Java and Javascript are enabled in both cases (ticked).
Firefox should automatically bring up a panel to allow you to install Java when you visit a website that requires it.
IE has both Microsoft VM and Java and these can be Enabled from Tools>Options>Advanced tab (scroll down to Java section).
Part of the problem for some time was MS's battle with Sun regarding Java....:-)
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Thanks for that Stuart. I had downloaded the latest version (as yours) into a spares folder in case I needed it.
I have obviously been living without Java for some time. A check in 'Add/Remove programs' shows no sign of it.
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For the past couple of days, pages from the Telegraph website seem to be downloading extremely slowly on my laptop. Other websites don't seem to be affected, and there is no problem that I've noticed on the family desktop.
Any idea what the problem might be & what I might do about it?
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Working as usual for me (Firefox) - as it's weekend it may just be sheer volume of website visitors.
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No - I don't think that's it. It still has not improved. As I say, it's fine on the family desktop, but on my laptop, something is very odd.
I did a test run. The HJ homepage downloaded in 10 seconds, but a page from the Telegraph took 85 seconds, which is pretty poor. Any more ideas??
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Hello all,
I could really do with some advice...ok - serious help.
At Uni, we've been tasked with an assignment looking at the finer points of Windows 2000 and Linux. I thought I'd be clever and install Red Hat on my computer to have a fiddle around with it and see how it worked etc...
I installed Red Hat 9.0 on a 20gig partition and it's gone on fine. I've had a bit of a fiddle with the command line interfaces (which is the main reason I put it on) but the problem is, I don't have a clue what I'm doing. I'm trying to set the Internet up on it but this is where I'm having difficulty. I'm on BT Broadband and get to it via a NetGear DG834 Router. I've tried fiddling with a few settings but I'm flying blind.
I'm typing this on my Mum's laptop (cheers Mum!) and am looking at the attached devices on the router which is saying this laptop and my sister's computer are connected but it's not picking up my computer which leads me to believe that the network card isn't doing anything.#
I would be most grateful for any pointers - I know it's a long shot given the obscurity of the system but you never know!
Many thanks in advance,
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Adam
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To be honest Adski I would have gone for one of the more user friendly Linux Distribs. (Mandrake does it for me) However loads of people use Red Hat and you can say with some surety there is a distribution for every type of user you can think of and opinions on the subject are many and very varied. However you need help and you will find it within your local Linux User Group. Google will be your lead to this and the other myriad help sites for Linux. The current December issue of Linux Format magazine (LXF60) in the shops at the present time has CDs for Mandrake 10.1 and is full of useful information and guidance.
Spend £5.99 on the mag - get knowledge and an Operating System that leaves MS a diminishing spot in the rear view mirror.
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Thanks very much for that Phil. I'd been told that Mandrake was the more user friendly one - I put Red Hat on purely because we'd used it at Uni and I have a copy of it already.
I'm going to have a good browse of Google later and I'll get that Mag - 6 quid you can't really complain can you?
Again, many thanks - I shall keep you updated.
--
Adam
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Adam
If you have a broadband link I can also recommend Mepis and Ubuntu. Have a look at www.distrowatch.com to find out where to get them (and many, many more) from. The advantage Mepis has is that it's a "live" disk, so it runs without touching your hard-disk so you can check out compatibility--"install" this way takes a couple of minutes, and though it will run a little slowly from the cd-rom, it is very impressive, especially for automatic hardware detection. It includes an easy installer so you can put it on the HD if you like it. Mandrake's equivalent "live" disk is called MandrakeMove. The more recent 2.6 kernel (Red Hat 9.0 is 2.4 I think, but mandrake 10.1, Mepis etc are 2.6-based) has much better support for "Winmodems," which are not true modems, are designed to run only with Windows, and come with most PCs for reasons of cost. Mepis also has the advantage of being able to download software from the huge Debian repository, a truly amazing free resource of just about any software tool you could imagine.
Be careful though, you'll get hooked.
Chris
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Adski - what version of Red Hat were you using? The current one is Fedora Core 3, though a lot of people find Core 2 more stable. It's running on my Thinkpad at the moment. I installed it on my laptop, plugged in the network cable and it found the internet straight away. God bless DHCP.
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Anyone know how to get XP desktop clock into 12h mode??
thanks
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Control Panel/Regional and Language Options/Customise Regional Options. Go to Time tab, change time format to hh:mm:ss instead of HH:mm:ss.
Not sure if this changes the taskbar time though...?
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Done it .. many thanks smokie.
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If you missed the options at the bottom, I'll mention that if you add a then tt (i.e hh:mm:ss tt) it will change the format to say AM or PM at the end. Remove one of the h's to get rid of the leading zero.
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What's the better monitor to own, get on with?
just bought a flat screen and starting to regret it.
Basically have i made a mistake?
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what don't you like about it ?
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The question is a bit like what's the best car?
Not easy to answer without an idea of what you expect of it.
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Screen seems very bright even with brightness turned down, text on webpages especially black on white letters seem patchy and hard to read, Yellow doesn't seem to show up very well ie. Backroom main page there is virtually no yellow to see between posts whereas on my old CRT it was quite definable. Pictured do not seem as sharp as old CRT. The only benefit I can see is space saved. Maybe I'm too critical as not used to it yet.
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A flat screen tends to have fuzzy characters unless you run the screen at its highest resolution (1024x768 or 1280x1024 or whatever).
Try loading Microsoft Paintbrush to check the pure RGB colours (Colours / Edit Colours / Custom Colours) and see whether there is an obvious weakness in the R, G or B.
The light yellow (cream) background to these messages looks like R=255, G=255, B=224. If you can't see this colour clearly, the screen may be faulty.
Ian
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The light yellow (cream) background to these messages looks like R=255,G=255, B=224. If you can't see this colour clearly, the screen may be faulty.
tried that in paint, color looks virtually white?
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Before condemning the screen completely, it may be possible to adjust the brightness with your graphics adapter utilities. Some adapters give you great control over colours, and other adpaters virtually none.
You should find the utilities on the taskbar, next to the clock. Or in Windows 98, right-click on the desktop / Properties / Settings / Advanced. It's something very similar in WinXP.
Ian
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imagos,
How is the monitor connected to the pc? Is it via a traditional monitor lead, or is it using a digital connection (can't remember the exact terminology)?
The picture on mine is much better via the digital connection.
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DVI - Digital Video Interface. Bigger plug, lot more pins.
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imagos, How is the monitor connected to the pc? Is it via a traditional monitor lead, or is it using a digital connection (can't remember the exact terminology)? The picture on mine is much better via the digital connection.
It's connected by a 'traditional' monitor lead whatever you call that. The screen is made by 'BTC Korea Co'.
What's a digital connector? Where can you get them?
Thanks for all replies.
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Most good new video cards have a large white, digital connector (bigger than the old "vga" style which is usually blue).
Your monitor would need to have a digital input to fit the digital connector to make sense of the signal. If the monitor is vga then I'm afraid that a digital input (even with a converter) wouldn't improve matters.
Lee.
--
Lee
Having a Fabialous time.
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All flat screens we use here work best a lowly 60hz refresh rate. Most complain if you leave the refresh rate at the same as the old CRT - probably 85hz or above. I'm typing this message using an Eizo flat panel monitor and the yellow areas are clealy defined on the screen.
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Far less wearing on the peepers and more enviromentally sound to boot.
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Flat screens take a little more fiddling to get set up with brightness and contrast set correctly. For this reason most have an "auto set" function that monitors the input signals and has a stab at setting it right.
It is possible to get nearly all screens looking right, except most are not good at dark blacks. All of them at the moment are not the best for games or DVD, they are slower than CRT tubes and tend to "trail ghost or shadow" complex moving effects.
What screen is it? the BR may be able to offer first hand advice.
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>Flat sreen resolution etc.<
The flat screens should be set to the resolution they were designed for as determined by the pixels per cm/inch (light spots) they were manufactured with. If you look at two screens, one set to the recommended and one set to some other resolution, the latter does not look as good.
I have an early Samsung, sort of couple of years old now (may be more). I love it and would not like to go back to a crt. No problem with resolution.
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Are you talking about a TFT monitor or just a basic flat screen monitor?
TFTs have a native resolution setting and are generally used, as stated, at 60MHz refresh rate rather than the 85MHz which is the minimum to avoid flicker on a CRT version for most people.
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This link - one of many you can find - may help:
www.pcw.co.uk/features/1157439
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This link - one of many you can find - may help: www.pcw.co.uk/features/1157439
Great link and site, showed my PC supplier it, will report back.
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I have this very afternoon replaced old win98se Pc with new Win XP pc
currently, have set up 2 users on XP, 'Me' and 'Her'. We have one email account with one isp, all her mail going to her@ourhouse.net and all else being mine
Is it possible to configure the system so, using either outlook express or outlook2000,she only sees her email and i only see mine, or are we better off not bothering with 'users' and going back to the way we did it under win98, where I just moved all her messages to a different folder ?
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borasport, if it's all coming to one mailbox, there's no reliable automated way of separating the incoming mail. You could consider getting another mailbox, so that you each have your own.
In that case, you can configure each user's mailer to use their own mailbox.
However, I suggest that the arrival of a new PC would be a good time to seriously consider ditching the microsoft email and browser software -- both Outlook (in all its varieties) and Internet Exlorer are big security hazards. The Firefox browser and Thunderbird emailer are both free downloads from www.mozilla.org
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yup - you sign in on one xp account and set up the relevant user id and pop/smtp details (deleting any others you may have set)
then you sign in on the other and set up the other details
voila you have two outlook expresses with different unique details each one only visible* from being signed in on the right account
*unless you know how to break xp user security which lets face it aint hard.
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oh yes you need two unique pop details with your isp - sorry forgot to mention that - but most allow multiple email addresses
so we have
papa@rf.com
nicolle@rf.com
horrible_teenager@rf.com
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Having been lucky in not getting much spam mail in the past I seem to be getting 3 or 4 daily about genuine (!) Italian (!) reproduction(!) Rolex watches - also some viagra ones. I have used the Message rules thing in Outlook Express to say that I want any e-mails containing the word Rolex and /or viagra deleted but this seems to have little effect. Any advice or do I just put up with them? Use ME and Outlook express.
Oh and RF - please send photos of nicolle and horrible_teenager and does papa need viagra - I know place on the internet he can buy it!!!!
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Phil, is it your Freeserve account that's getting spammed? (I took a look at your profile to find out your email address) And if it is, is the text before the @ different to your usual email account?
If so, are you aware you can set up message rules "on-line" ?
Goto Wanadoodoo's homepage and log into your email account there. Goto options, click on filters and set up the incoming email accounts that you want blocking.
If not, then ignore this ;o)
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You can buy Viagra on the Internet? Nobody told me. Now where can I get a university diploma...?
If you're getting mail problems and using Outlook Express, might be worth trying Mailwasher if the ISP filters don't catch the bulk of the rubbish.
--
Lee
Having a Fabialous time.
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>Spam filter<
Filters based on recognising a 'banned' word/s rarely work for long. The spammers change spelling. Viiagra, for instance.
I have two approaches. I change email address when it gets too bad and inform people. I also go on to the ISP website itself, log on, and set a filter If 'SUBJECT' 'DOES NOT CONTAIN' firefly (or whatever you care to use) bounce the email with the message "Please send again and include the word firefly to be considered for a password for future emails" or something like that. Where the words in caps. are sections of the filter that have to be filled in (depends who's ISP you are using).
This avoids your forgotten friends losing contact. The spammers are very unlikely to bother. What's more. Spam emails are got rid of without you having to log on. Eventually you can kill the address. Or, same effect, make up a DELETE filter for it.
The filter before this is 'If SUBJECT CONTAINS firefly' stop processing any more filters. That mail then comes to you undisturbed. If it is spam ignore it.
You can change the firefly word (in the message as well) at any time, should spammer build up.
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The other thing I should have said is, I use Mailwasher Pro as well. Sort of $25.
You can look at your mail with it before downloading and tick it for erase on MW and it is then erased on the ISP site. That way you get rid of potential viruses.
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Thanks all - some good suggestions there to work on. In answer to DD - yes it is my freeserve account and I'm not sure if text before @ is different - I will check the next one!
Was Wanadoodoo a typo? I suspect not!!
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Even though mu mum has a works email account, I set her up a Hotmail one to tinker around with and to be fair, she's actually using it quite a bit.
Anyway - it's embarassing the amount of...email she gets. I'll not go into the titles because you're all men (and women) of the world but we're talking about...20 a day. Tried setting up the filters but that usually ends up blocking the legitimate email she gets. (I don't want to further complicate matters by setting up separate folders for her).
I can only presume that someone had the address before her and was a little undiscerning as to what they signed up for. A similar thing happened to me...in as much that I got a new email account as my old one woulndn't work. Got about 3 dodgy emails a day and then out of the blue they stopped.
Crazy.
--
Adam
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BTYahoo does a pretty good job of filtering out the junk mail. (to prevent download to my mail client) It accumulates at about 120 per day, on my my main email account! I empty it weekly with a quick scan of senders to make sure nothing useful has been intercepted or to train it with new valid sender addresses.
They also operate some alias type of address system to allow you to hide your true email in public. But I have not used this.
I had always been very protective of this address and cannot understand how it gained so much widespread abuse. Other addresses used in more public places have not accumulated anything like the level of spam.
pmh (was peter)
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Phil
NoWheels had a good idea when she mentioned the Mozilla Thunderbird mailer. It has the best spam filtering I've ever seen in action. When you first start using it you "teach" it what junk mail looks like, but very quickly it "learns" and separates the mail automatically. I've been using it with my "sacrificial" email account for a few months now and have had no false positives.
And it's free.
Chris
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Fully support ChrisR - not only are Firefox and Thunderbird virtually free of security loopholes in direct contrast to Internet Explorer and Outlook Express, the Firefox browser downloads pages much more quickly, very useful if you are on dialup.
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Was Wanadoodoo a typo?
No o;)
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I don't know how AOL do it, but I've only had one spam message in the last half-year or so. No action required on my part.
Ian
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The disadvantage of having your isp do it is that if there is a false positive the mail doesn't get through. They are probably using the same system as Thunderbird anyway ;-)
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If anyone using Firefox version 1.0 is interested, there's an ActiveX plugin available at:
www.iol.ie/~locka/mozilla/plugin.htm#download
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When BT installed the ADSL connection in my home office two years ago, it was by fitting a chunky surface mounted box for which the face plate has both an ADSL socket, and a telephone socket. Two wires run from the box, one back to the 'master' socket in the lounge (I guess this is the ADSL feed), and the other to the nearest available existing socket (I guess this is the telephone feed). The latter feed has been done by surface running the wire, and then jamming it between wall and faceplate of the socket it eventually reaches.
Urgh.
Horrid.
Wires shouldn't be seen like this!
I'm about to comprehensively redecorate my home office, so have a perfect opportunity to sort out this mess.
Because I now use a wireless ADSL modem / firewall / router, there is no reason why it can't be located in another room in the house, which infact, if more central, would also ensure better signal coverage. It doesn't have to be in the office at all.
Given that I have a spare 'ADSL microfilter' (The system BT gave to my brother a few months ago) that simply plugs in to any telephone socket, can I simply junk the ADSL 'socket in a box' that I have now, terminate the redundant wiring (rather than remove it as I believe I'm not allowed to tamper with the master socket), and plug the ADSL microfilter in to the telephone extension socket in my desired room?
Many thanks.
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You can, but I wouldn't.
It is a facility, perhaps not one you're using now, but none the less why not keep it ?
Especially since in the future you may want to move / not have / change the wireless stuff or other parts of your config.
Personally I'd just clean it up.
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Thanks Mark.
As you believe that I can, I will try to.
The end result of a dongle versus a fixed socket is just the same - an ADSL access point - but as well as the tidiness issue in my case, the dongle method has the advantage that the access point can be in any room of the house where there is a BT socket.
The existing ADSL wire will still exist, albeit tidily terminated and left under the floor. When we eventually move, if the next occupier wants ADSL it would be the work of a few minutes to screw the current box back on to the wall and hook it up.
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ADSL just runs down your normal telephone wire. Just the two regular wires that come into the house. Its the microfilters that split the voice/data.
So the rules are simple.
You need 1 master socket (preferably the first socket to your wires going to the outside world), as many non master sockets as you like, but each socket (master or not) that has a phone handset plugged in needs a microfilter.
It sounds like you have a master, and a non master that has an inbuilt microfilter.
If it was me, I would take all the cables out back to the master. Rewire (hiding the wires) using non master combined faceplates in all my extensions.
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Sorry - Combined = ADSL/Telephone faceplates
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Thanks RF.
From what you have written I can simply replace the telephone extension faceplate in our spare bedroom with the combined ADSL/Tel faceplate?
The only reason I question this is because the combined ADSL/Tel faceplate in our office (which is the one I will relocate if I follow this plan) has two cables feeding it: One runs straight through a hole in the outside wall, and down to where the main BT feed comes in to the house. From there, it comes back in and joins on the back of the master socket. The other cable runs down to an existing extension point in the hall, where it squeezes between face plate and wall, and joins on the back of it.
Following your logic, can you think of why the combined ADSL/Tel plate has two such feeds, not just one from the master?
TVM.
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RF
You do not need a filter for every phone extension. If you ensure the first microfilter/splitter (connected to incoming line/master) is used to feed the ADSL modem, and remaining phone extension circuits are then all fed from the microsplitter - no problems. I use this for about 6 outlets servicing a REN of 4 on a 3km line.
I agree your advice about taking all socket wiring individually back to the master location, (ie not daisy chained). It makes fault resolution much easier. Forgetting the ADSL isue for a moment, it is also worth while making sure that all your (own) extension wiring is plugged into the master (not hardwired) so that it becomes a demarcation point for proving whether the fault lies with you or the telecoms supplier.
pmh (was peter)
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What is the correct order in which to use Disc Cleanup, Scandisk and Defrag please?
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In the exact way you have written it.
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As you know Ive just bought a flat screen, now the problem I've got now is the little ones greasy finger marks and dust starting to appear rapidly. My old CRT monitor I cleaned with wet wipes and a dry tissue with no problems at all but somehow don't think it's a good idea on this one so my Question is how do i clean it without damaging it?
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I clean my Mum's laptop using the cloth you would clean your specs with. Works better than anything else for me.
--
Adam
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Having used laptops* for getting on 15 years I have always used the moist optical spectacle wipes on the screens.
(15 years ago you didnt want them on your lap!!)
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Thanks Adamski and Mr RF for replies but I don't wear glasses so don't know anything about optical wipes. Can I buy them anywhere, or do I have to go to an Opiticans? I'm quite concerned I don't muck up my new screen.
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Boots.
And they're perfick. I use them for my laptop screen as well as my glasses.
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Thanks Mark I had no idea, I'll give them a look tommorrow.
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This post is just a shameless bit of attention seeking - since I have not yet received any helpful suggestions to my posting on this thread on the subject of web pages opening slowly, and I know there are a lot of people out there who have far greater knowledge of computers than I do.
(Thanks Stuartli, for at least replying, but the probelm didn't go away)
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AHHHHHH I cant resist an attention seeker!
So, Telegraph loads ok on Family PC, not on laptop. Other web pages load ok on Laptop but not telegraph.
Assuming that connection speeds are the same for Family pc as laptop then there could be something in your local internet history / cache screwing that page.
To clear your cache/history
On internet explorer page Tools/Internet options/delete files cookies & history.
See what happens then.
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tyro, try installing Firefox -- it's faster than IE (as wella s safer, and beter in just about every way).
For extra ooomph, install the AdBlock extension: cutting out the ads make sites load much more quickly. (Note -- pls don't use it on HJ's site, he needs the ad revenue!)
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I occasionally log on down at our local library (which does not take a paper copy of the D.Torygraph) and am always astounded at the delay in loading which seems to be just numerous fancy java and shockwave ads. Feed is alleged to be 1MBps. I use Mozilla and Firefox at home with some selective adblocking on both and although I only have 56k dial up can get almost seamless loading any day of the week.
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I hit 1.1 MBs. Use Mozilla, BT/Yahoo's Browser and IE6 in that order. Telegraph downloads perfectly on the BT/Yahoo and IE6 - but the site does not like my Mozilla - missing frames pictures and poor link opening. ZA zaps the pop ups and fear might be upsetting Mozilla. IE6 runs the Telegraph perfectly off the router onto the family laptop.
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Thanks all
I'll try ideas and see what happens.
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Mozilla and Firefox are different browsers, despite the fact that it's called Mozilla Firefox...:-)
If you go to the Mozilla website and download Firefox version 1.0 you should be OK (4.5MB). Just configure it properly from Tools>Options:
www.mozilla.org/products/firefox/central.html
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Note that the all-in-one Mozilla browser is not going to be developed for much longer. The upgrade path will be through Firefox, with the other components of the all-one Mozilla also available as separate applications (e.g. Thunderbird replaces the email part of Mozilla)
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