****** This thread is now closed. Please see Volume 59, which is here:- ******
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=27140
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
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Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
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This is Volume 58. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
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PLEASE NOTE:
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I have just purchased a PIR triggered outside light that also has the option to automatically switch on after dusk to provide a constant level of background light. When a heat source comes in to range, it the switches to full brightness, returning to the dimmer background mode afterwards. An excellent design, with the PIR sensor well integrated (no unsightly white blob), and easily adjustable both for range and sensitivity.
I have fitted it with a 60 watt clear domestic light bulb, and set the dimmed background mode to what (from the installation spec sheet) is about 10 watt. Not a lot, but perfect to give a welcoming glow to the front door, especially with the clear bulb clearly visible.
Question: Will a conventional domestic bulb, with air not halogen surrounding the filament, suffer a shortened life span as a result of prolonged derated usage?
The obvious answer is 'no', but I recall a former colleague complaining that the instrument panel lamps on his car were forever failing (motoring link!), and an auto electrician explaining that it was because he had them dimmed so much that the filaments failed prematurely.
TVM.
BTW - I laughed when I read the recent post about ES becoming derigeur as a mounting standard. "Rubbish", thought I... Until I went looking for the outside light a couple of days ago. With many lights in the house now replaced with high efficiency bulbs, or converted to halogen, I have a box full of 60w and 100w bayonet bulbs in the garage. No chance of using them though: Every single lamp I looked at used the ES bulb mount!
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Would suggest you keep bayonet. mounts. ES type were trouble.Think I explained in last thread..Edison screw type had no security.Ie bulb is screwed on to connections..expansion/contraction didnt do it any favours,shorting occurs.causing bulb failure.by far the best is BC!!
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Steve
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Thanks anyway steve.o, but I'm not in the least bit worried about the mounting type at all. I only added the paragraph out of casual interest. I've already purchased and fitted the lamp I wanted, and it came with ES. So be it.
It's filament life when dimmed right down that I'm really interested in.
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>>It's filament life when dimmed right down that I'm really interested in.>>
It should be far longer - heat is one of a bulb's life shortening factors along with constant switching on and off.
We use two 150 watt bulbs in the living room and they pack up about every four to six months; in addition the bulb holders eventually give up the ghost because of the heat level.
However, it's not really worth using earthed metal bulb holders as replacing them only takes a few minutes' work.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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Pushing twelve years of having lights on dimmers in kids bedrooms. Bulb life indistiguishable from rest of the house. Cycling on/off is what kills them. It's the indicator pilots that go first in my dash.
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Well, it finally sold for £15,102 so my £20k guess wasn't too far out.
We should have all clubbed together and used it as a backroom clubhouse, but on whose lawn?
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About the price of a half decent motor- need a big garage though.
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For crying out loud - I've done it again! Sorry mods.
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Adam
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On your 'birthday' too. See your profile if you can't work it out.
Mind you, it seems much longer.
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Hello all,
Strange question I know but we've just been out to BandQ to buy a new bathroom suite. It won't be delivered for 5 weeks so there's no rush but the bath is some whirlpool jobbie. It's nothing fancy - just a bath with holes in. Question is how will this work? Could someone tell me how this can be fitted in or are we going to need to get 'Bob' the plumber out?
Cheers
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Adam
Tsk! You just can't get the staff these days :)
Moved to its correct position for you courtesy of the backroom butler sir
Hugo
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Adski..was the pump included in the price?. some companys sell this seperately.
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Steve
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I think the pump was included yes Steve.
Cheers Hugo - just easing you into the Mod job ;-)
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Adam
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wait until the bath arrives, then look see how complex it looks to install
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WEll thank you very much Mr Family - helpful as ever ;-)
I suppose what I'm angling at, is how, in principle it works. Is it just a pump that gets wired into the mains or is it more difficult - mind you - wiring it into the mains will be hard enough!
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Adam
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I suppose what I'm angling at, is how, in principle it works. Is it just a pump that gets wired into the mains or is it more difficult - mind you - wiring it into the mains will be hard enough!
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>>mind you - wiring it into the mains will be hard enough!
This says it all really.
LEAVE IT ALONE. Get it done by someone who will do it to the proper IEE standards.
The mechanical aspects of installing the bath and plumbing only risk a flood.
Mess up the wiring / bonding etc and we may miss your contributions in future.
Focus on the future, your future!
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Roger that Henry. Glad I've got a definite answer as I'm not going anywhere near it now!!!
Many thanks for everyone's help.
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Adam
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Are not there 2 types of Whirlpool bath?
One pumps and circulates water in jets and the other merely injects air at pressure through the jets.
We had a bath fitted recently by a plumber. Mechanically it was very simple however the electricity supply had to be wired through a 'special' circuit breaker(presumably more sensitive) even though all electricity circuits in the house are protected with MCBs and RCCB.
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I've got a broken hinge in a corner unit in the kitchen. When the door is closed, the two halves of the hinge (i.e. the bit attached to the carcass and the bit attached to the door) lie in a straight line (180 degrees). When the door opens outwards through 90 degrees, the hinge is effectively opened 270 degrees. When I tried to buy a new one in Homebase, I got blank looks as the assistant didn't understand what I meant & they clearly didn't stock them. I've tried a web search & can't seem to locate them either, although I have found something called a 165 degree hinge, which from the unclear diagram might be what I have.
My question is, does anyone understand what I'm looking for and can tell me what the technical term is, or can you suggest a good site where I might be able to track one down?? TIA.
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Try looking in a Screwfix catalogue or online at www.screwfix.com.
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Your best bet is to remove the hinge and take it to a small DIY store. If they are any good they will be able to help you. The likes of B&Q and Homebase are all right if what you want is on the shelves, but the small retailers are mostly tradesmen themselves and understand their business.
I had a similar problem with a lock on a UPVC door which needed replacing, and after wasting my time with the multiples a local guy actually got one made for me.
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Mike
I may have a couple of spares. I fitted a 2nd hand kitchen into a property I rent out and didn't need the corner cabinet. E mail me your address. If I have them you're welcome to them.
hugo_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Hugo
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Anyone know of a reasonably priced Church/Village hall venue in the Telford/Newport/not far West of the West Midlands/Shropshire area?
Friend of mine runs dog training classes, and has been priced out of her current venue. Would be used midweek days, possibly w/e days, needs to be the size of a small basketball court, have toilet/kitchen and be attached to a park/playing field.
Would be covered in large sheet to prevent damage to floor.
ta
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I could name a few for you RF but not sure on price/availability.
One that i know ticks all boxes is St Georges Cricket club, they have a big room for hire with all the facilities you mention and plenty of land nearby for dog walks etc.
A couple of other possibles include Idsall school/leisure centre, oakengates leisure centre or madeley court but doubt you'd be able to use the kitchen.
Most of the others off the top of my head struggle for the land nearby.
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We are doing a bit of remodelling of our garden and want to have a new garden shed. We really only have 2 acceptable locations: at the side of the house or next to the oil tank. Anywhere else would block the view. Putting it next to the house means that we will block access to the garden from the front - very useful for moving things in and out. The next obvious place is next to the 1500 litre central heating oil tank. There would be at most a 1 foot gap between the shed and the tank: there is only about 5.5 feet between the tank and the end of the terrace so the shed will have to be quite narrow anyway. So, now to my question: is this safe and would such a construction so close to an oil tank contravene any regulations?
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Robin
Not sure TBH. Suggest you contact your local building regulations officer at your council.
I find these are usually the best ready source of information for things like this.
If I don't know the answer to such questions, that's usually my first port of call.
Hugo
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Robin, I've just asked my Dad (who has recently started a new job with the Planning Office) and he *thinks* that there are no PLANNING regulations in terms of putting it next to the tank but there may be fire regulations.
He's going to take it into work tomorrow and find out for definite. I'll post tomorrow evening.
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Adam
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Don't know if this helps or not - my oil tank was sited about 2, maximum 3 feet from the back of my garage, with the boiler immediately on the other side of the wall in the garage. This was at the time the house was built, 8 years ago, and planning permission had already been sorted by the developer. Difference is the garage is concrete block construction, whereas your shed may be timber?
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andymc
Vroom, vroom - mmm, doughnuts ...
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There will probably have to be a firebreak between the tank and the shed. Normally a brick or block wall, stepped down at the sides of the [.
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The oil in the tank is likely to be a type of kerosene or gasoil (similar to Derv) so unlikely to be a fire risk if the shed got torched.
The biggest problem is the possible pollution when the tank leaks. It should be in a bund; a brick walled enclosure that can contain all the oil in the tank should it spring a leak.
I wouldn't worry. Years ago we had both the oil tank and the boiler in the basement within two feet of each other. Never a problem, and my father was in the heating oil business.
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
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Would agree with RF here. If your shed is made of wood. Even more likely it will need firebreak. though think you will find any type will..
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Steve
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The heat from a burning shed could melt your tank (if its plastic)- personally regardless of the regs, the risk would be too high for me.
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A relative of mine works part time at a small shop, which is owned and operated by a large well known chain. She is only 16 and was approached by a young person attempting to buy alcohol. She rang for another member of staff over 18 to witness/authorise the sale. There was no response and she tried again with no luck. Getting flustered, due to a queue of tutting customers, she went ahead with the sale.
It then turned out it was Trading Standards doing a spot check. She was immediately suspended pending enquiries. She has been interviewed by the company and trading standards to establish the facts. She has now been reinstated but is not using the tills. Her brother also works at the shop and he has already got evidence of their poor training and practices over a wide variety of issues.
This week she?s been contacted again by Trading Standards and she now thinks that they might be trying to prosecute her personally.
Does anyone know what the worst case scenario could be with this?
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You need to check with an expert, but I don't think that she has broken any laws.
One could argue that the employer could take some [disciplinary] action against her, but I can't see that there is any criminal act on her part. And I doubt that the employer would win in a tribunal if she took them there. I do not recommend this, however, its normally better to simply walk away with an assurance of a good reference.
The store, on the other hand, *has* broken the law.
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I'm not sure if the law would be different for an off-licence but in a pub/club, the offence is committed by both the member of staff and the licensee. Having said that, I've never known Trading Standards to prosecute the employee personally. Their emphasis has always been on the licensee/proprietor.
As she is herself under 18, the shop is further at fault for permitting the situation to arise where she was able to sell alcohol unsupervised (to a juvenile or adult).
Without knowing the content of the latest contact from Trading Standards, it would be hard to judge their intentions but I would be surprised if they saw here as anything more than a witness to a prosecution.
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I used to work for a short while at a...well known supermarket. Here's the great thing. We weren't allowed to ask the young wippersnappers for ID or what their age was if they were buying alcohol.
Presumably we were meant to employ either guess work or telekineses. I used the latter.
We had loads of trouble when a 17 year old tried to get on the tills so I think the store is in even more trouble (as Duchess said).
Oh how I've forgotten those days...
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Adam
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I've heard of this practice by Trading Standards officers before, and have wondered if it could be challenged in court. Surely they are guilty of encitement or entrapment, or whatever law might cover this in the UK.?
If they do decide to prosecute I woudld take legal advice just to see where your relative stands, but either way it is a diabolical practice which should be stopped.
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Thanks for all the replies. Once again I'm indebted to the Back Room.
The conclusion we have drawn is that all TS are doing is gathering information so that the shop can be either severely warned or prosecuted.
Even so, it has been a terrible ordeal for my relative who was only doing a part time job for a bit of pocket money. More so is the lax procedures that have come to light from one of the country's largest retailers.
Thanks again all.
Charles
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Hi,
I am going to attempt to refit the shower (again!).
The problem I have had is:
Replaced the old shower (6Kw) that had pretty much had it - with a newer one (8-9Kw)(Triton). Remounted using exisitng wiring, in the same place - all worked fine for two months then suddenly there was a loss of pressure. Turned off retried a few times - same. When switched to cold - the pressure seems fine - although not as good as before. Anyway - exchanged the shower as it was under warranty, thinking it was faulty. I did have a look inside to see if there was a problem - nothing looked out of order.
Replaced shower with a new one (same model) -this worked fine for a few months - and same thing happened. This time had a look around - it looked like the relay(looks like a small switch) - I think it was a 24v. Replaced this, but shower is still the same - with no pressure on the hot setting water - dribbles out although it does warm up the water.
Any ideas?? Before I replace shower again!
I think maybe the wiring up to the shower is not 'thick' enough? Would this cause the problem - as the original shower had been a 6Kw one - the new ones are at least 8 Kw.
Have asked a few electricians - and am not getting consistant advice - so I think it will be expensive getting them to rewire the shower. The power cable runs to the basement - from the bathroom (extension downstairs). So am looking at a 30ft cable!!
Any help would be appreciated!.
Thanks.
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Shaz,
Some questions
1. What size cable do you have?
2. What rating fuse/MCB on the shower circuit?
3. Do you have hard water? Is the shower simply needing de-scaling
StarGazer
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Shaz,
If the pressure is reduced (to a trikle) could this be related to the lower temperature of the mains water(or cold water tank)in winter? IE it takes longer to heat the water up to 'set' temperature, hense lower flow rate.
Worth getting the electrics checked out if you're unsure
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I fitted a Triton shower this week so have been reading the manual!
It has an inlet filter which requires the cover to be removed and the filter cleaned with a toothbrush - it is located inside the solonoid inlet.
It gives that as a poosible cause of reduced flow.
It is not likely to be anything electrical if it is still heating.
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I was called out to a Triton shower during the summer. The symptoms were water trickling out and the shower heating, then cutting out. The valve assembly had collapsed internally, part of the debris partly blocking the outlet. The thermostat was shutting off the power to prevent the boiler going pop. A new valve assembly sorted it up to press and cheered up the landlord who thought she was going to have to buy a new shower. Only dealt with this one so don't know if it's common to Tritons.
In view of the fact that the shower worked OK for a while, I'd be surprised if the wiring was at fault.
Electric showers aren't that difficult to dismantle; I'd be tempted to have a look inside if you have any DIY skills.
Good luck.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
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I have a couple of minor problems with my ch - the worst being that my elderly programmer (Randall 4430) mechanical clock has made its last orbit.
Normally, I would have made an inspection/attempt at repair, but the eejit who fitted it has planted it right on top of a 13A socket and there's a grub screw on the base which holds the cover on......
Looking on eBay, there's lots of them on offer, but also many different types - with separate pumped water heating (immersion) - do I require the type described as '2 channel'?
Finally, I expect many would be delighted to have a radiator thermostat that switches within 0.5C but I find this annoying when it fires up from cold, runs for about 20-30 minutes and then shuts down with rads just warm. This seems wasteful, and I would rather it 'hung' for a bit longer - any way the stat can be adjusted to do this?
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Frostie,
You will need to describe your system in greater detail to enable correct advice:
Is your heating indirect? ie do you have a hot water cylinder and a three way valve (or maybe two single way valves)?
seperate thermostat as well maybe? in the hall perhaps?
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Can I suggest you do a forum search as we helped No Dosh sort his C/H out.
Have a look at lots of info already there.
IIRC I advised ND on programmers.
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Hi RF. Yes, it is indirect with hw cylinder and x2 valves.
The thermostat is indeed in the hall.
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Changing the controller is not challenging provided the valves are power on spring off types as IIRC most are.
It needs a mains cable and two other wires thats all.
Provided you get the mains bit connected OK you have a fifty fifty chance with getting the others sorted.
So then either the C/H selector works or it controls the H/W.
If it is wrong then just swop said two wires.
So many controllers you study the spec on how many on/offs etc plus of course battery standby to save your settings in the event of power off.
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Frostie,
with two valves you are going to need a two channel programer. When you have 1 three way valve the hot water/heating controls are interlinked but with two valves they are completely seperate.
Programers tend to use universal base plates where the wires are conneected to and you can sometimes slip a similar type of programer onto the old baseplate (it has connecting pins)
That 13 amp plug is going to have to come off. Not a probloem you are going to cut the power anyway are you not?
Bit of care needed to make sure the new functions match the old wires (use of a mulitmeter) and it should be an easy job.
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Thanks for the help, RF and Henry.
I shall be going into manual mode until I can get a replacement programmer - really only used timer for water as the rads are 'live' all the time for background heating to a scorching 15C.
"you are going to cut the power anyway are you not?" - I am the original nut who very rarely cuts the power and have changed light switches & 13a sockets without doing so. One day.......
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Why doesn't sugar have a sell by date?..
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And while you are about it - why do my pickled onions have to be kept in the fridge after opening?
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I dont think they do.Though its recommended. the vinegar plus sugar prevents the onions going off. Ie acid. I have never put onions in jar in the fridge..Never had a prob though others may know better..Interesting point though. can Anyone shed any light on this.
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Steve
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And while you are about it - why do my pickled onions have to be kept in the fridge after opening?
>>I would say it is total CYA.
I have never ever ever kept opened P Os in the fridge.
They live in the cupboard for weeks and they are the least expensive you can buy because I like small mild ones.
For decades each jar when opened gets put in a cupboard.
Sure if they are left for many weeks they eventually go soft.
Just read the label out of sheer amazement.Yes store in fridge.
Do I have some special immunity? I suspect not.
Oh well I will continue risking my life!
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Why doesn't sugar have a sell by date?..
www.silverspoon.co.uk/foodservice/contact_us.asp#36
"As solid sugar is in itself a preservative and has a shelf life in excess of 18 months, it is not required by Government legislation, effective from June 1992, to carry an indication of minimum durability i.e. a "best before date".The code number on the product is a production code which provides us with full traceability of the product."
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So Why-o-y-o-y does my honey have a sell-by date on it. When honey is in itself a preservative; has a >18m shelf-life; and best of all, contains antibiotic (?) additional preservatives.
If it has been recovered, almost edibe, from the pyramids, why won't it allegedly last more than a year or two on my shelf.
Oh yes, and can somebody tell me why both Tesco & Waitrose were selling, massively reduced to 50p per tin, in March this year, Goose Fat... when it has almost a 3-year sell-by date, and they still sell it at a more (less?) sensible #4n (or whatever) per tin.
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Why do goods have sell-by dates in general? Because it increases sales to people like SWMBO who throw things away when they get to the date. Often on the very day. So, it's lasted a year but can;t last another day?
As for sugar specifically, it kills bacteria. Sounds odd? Well, if you have a major wound and nothing else to treat it, a liberal dose of sugar on it will prevent infection, in much the way that sufficient sugear preserves fruit.
For the scientific, it forms a saturated solution in any liquid that is around. Then, osmosis through cell walls dehydrates bacteria to death.
V
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My parents have an ongoing problem with the large radiator in their kitchen. For the last few years it has been hot at the top when the CH is on, tepid in the middle and cold at the bottom. No amount of air bleeding sorts it and even after our boiler was renewed and the boiler man had a look/flushed the system it still won't heat up correctly.
Any ideas? In a 5 bed house it is the only rad they have a problem with, and having moved the boiler into the garage the kitchen is now a fairly cold room, not helped by a temperamental radiator.
The only thing we found that lessened the problem was to turn the radiator in the room above either totally off or half on/off. Not ideal.
Regarding the type of radiator (if it helps) It's just a normal older style CH rad with the bleeding bit at the top right and some kind of 'outlet valve' coming out of the pipe that runs along the wall under the rad.
Any advice appreciated (if this querie makes any sense!) :)
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If at first you do succeed, try not to look astonished
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Why don't you just buy a new radiator? problem solved surely?
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It does sound like its slightly blocked. You could try fernox descaler. Only prob is. if an old system may cause more problems than replacing rad. will depend on age of system/except boiler which is new..
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Steve
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It does sound like its slightly blocked. You could try fernox descaler. Only prob is. if an old system may cause more problems than replacing rad. will depend on age of system/except boiler which is new.
>>
I would agree that the radiator has probably got a lot of sludge in it. Descaler can certainly expose those pinprick holes in radiators.
Do you have 15mm/half inch pipes, smaller than 15mm pipes or large steel pipes?
The normal first approach would be to turn off the valves, take off the radiator and flush it using a hose. Do not attempt this for the first time unless you get expert advice because the contents of an old radiator can make a terrible stain and even thin modern steel radiators can be quite heavy.
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I had the same thing at my previous bungalow. The problem radiator was the largest in the property, and also it was the furthest from the water distribution manifold. Central heating water pumps are not high performance devices and if the physical size of the system is more than the pump can cope with you may well get problems with some radiators. The waterflow through the various radiators will be inversely proportional to the distance from the distribution manifold and proportional to the bore of the pipework. The temperature difference between different parts of a radiator may well be high if the radiator receives a low water flow in relation to its size. Obviously, restricting the flow through one or more radiators will result in a higher flow through the others.
Increasing the speed of the pump (if this is possible with yours) should be beneficial. Alternatively, fitting a higher performance pump might solve the problem.
I think the first thing you need is a competent plumber (or central heating specialist) to determine the exact cause of the problem.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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Jane, (some kind of 'outlet valve' coming out of the pipe that runs along the wall under the rad.)?
Are you saying there is only one connection to the rad or does it have two valves with half inch pipes to each one?
If it is the former it is micro bore with both connections going to the same valve. Circulation is made by a length of microtube pushed onto a spigot inside the rad to the valve.
A neighbour had the same problem and I found the piece of tube had simply fell off inside the radiator.
If it is not microbore and normal 15mm pipes going into each end ignore the above and check that both valves are fully open.
The one without the turning knob is exactly the same but will need the plastic cover taking off and turned with either the knob from the other end or an adjustable spanner.
With the radiator getting hot at the top this excludes any air problems.
If the problems is sludge or a blockage the only way to clear this is to take the rad off and blast it through with an hosepipe but as mentioned earlier although its a very simple job great care has to be taken with not getting spillage when lifted off. However you say turning off another rad you then get circulation which precludes a blockage.
Tell us more about the radiator connections approx size etc.
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The radiator needs to be replaced. It is blocked with sludge. It is possible to remove the rad from the wall and flush it through with a hosepipe BUT where the sludge has built up it is coroding the radiator from the inside out and pin hole leaks will appear in those spots sooner or later.
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As suggested, you have two options.
1 - Replace the radiator and the valves.
2 - remove it and try to flush it out with a hose connected to the rising main (via outside tap). The only reason I say this is because header tank pressure may not be enough to dislodge any sludge.
The advantages of option 2 is that you should not need drain the system or alter the plumbing (unless you fit new valves as well), and you save on the cost of a new rad, up to £100??
The advantage with option 1 is that you will get a much more efficient design of rad, plus it will be in tip top condition, and you won't' have to gamble with 'did flushing that rad work?'
I say, as winter approaches, do option 1. This will almost certainly involve draining the system. Change the rad and both valves (reusing the old is a false economy) Put a nice new Thermostatic Radiator Valve at one end.
When this is done pour some CH flushing compound into the CH header and expansion tank and then refill and bleed the rads and recommission the system. AND USE IT.
After a week or when directed, drain the system and the flushing compound. Refill using inhibitor, bleed and commission. I am not a plumber by trade, but I have just done this for a client and the difference is significant!
Hugo
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I'm sure as good Telegraph readers you all know that the only Branston pickle factory had a fire at the end of October.
Branston stated that they didn't believe Christmas stocks would be threatened, but if you check your local supermarket I bet you'll find none in stock...
There's probably a joke there somewhere, but this is a real alert. Search for Branston Pickle on eBay of you are really desperate...
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Parents bought a large jar in a newly opened shop in Swindon on Friday for 99p, called of all things, the 99p shop!! They had loads (the shop, not my parents).
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I've plenty in the fridge
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Presume that will mean a shortage. Ie cost increase after Christmas. poss before?. Glad I dont eat many :-) Onions that is
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Steve
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There is also a shortage of lard in some shops (well, the Co-op anyway) at the moment.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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As has been previously pointed out, this is "I have a question" not "I want a discussion". It's not a thread for airing views on possible future hikes in pickle prices!
sheeesh! You guys.....
No Dosh
mailto:moderators@honestjohn.co.uk
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OK. Point taken.
Where can I buy Branston Pickle in time for Christmas?
:-)
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::idly starts spinning barrel on Smith&Wesson::
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::idly starts spinning barrel on Smith&Wesson::
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Playin russian roulet again ND? bit like drivin the Alpha really.
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Tesco - plenty there today.
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Does anyone know why this is so-named?
I have been told it is nothing to do with Scotland!
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In the good old days, it's where the stagecoaches would have left the Great North Road. Left for Glasgow, right/straight-on for Edinburgh.
Ian
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I have been trying for a couple of weeks to find some accommodation in or near Bath for saturday night 4th December. All I want is one twin or double room with an en suite. Don't care whether hotel, b&b, or pub. Trouble is, because the christmas market is on (which is why I'm going), everywhere I've tried (including the hotel booking service) is full or will only book for two nights (which I can't do). There must be a load of pubs meeting my requirements that aren't on the internet - can anyone help me please! I'm coming from Andover direction, so would prefer suggestions to the south or south east of bath, and no more than 5 miles out.
Thanks in advance as always.
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Get the Good Pub Guide. That shows you all the pubs doing B&B.
Try this, also.
www.visitus.co.uk/default.aspx?regionID=8
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www.laterooms.com
At least ten free on 4.12.04
DVD
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Wifey went to Bath last week; she booked with:
www.superbreak.com
V
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There is a Travelodge in the centre of Town
A Express by Holiday Inn about 3/4 mile out - easy walking distance.
Lots of B&B's on the Wellsway A367
Try a search on www.yell.com - hotels / b&b in Bath.
Not aware of any pubs with B&B in the south of the city, there is however the Crown on Newbridge Hill.
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This goes right against my grain but....
SWMBO has had a brainwave and decided to look at a colour screen PAYG phone for our eldest who's birthday is on the 2nd of December.
We are looking to spend around £40 but the daughter wants a colour screen flip phone.
Are there any on the market for that price?
Where is the cheapest/best sales outlet anyone can suggest?
Tarrif isn't a huge issue here but I gather 3 do some good deals. (I am on the 3 contract plan that gives you 750 free anytime any network mins per month).
Thanks
Hugo
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Argos have one for £45
snipurl.com/arf0
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Argos have one for £45
Was £199.95. but it says 'OVER half price'? Can it be true?
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never mind the free minutes, they'll not be appreciated. If she gets them, they'll all be used without value or appreciation.
Get her something with free texting on the other hand......
Seriously though the phone that you're probably looking for is the LG 8120. I'd recommend the following;
www.phone4u.co.uk/3-Three-3G-Mobile-Phones.html
If its the V980 she wants, then that's there too.
www.phone4u.co.uk/Vodafone_Mobile_Phones.html
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Argos from last look have run out..Marks choice appears best bet at the moment.Thats internet view not store..though woolworths had a decent mobile for sale on 3 but has run out.I gather m/b phone companys now realise some want easy to use phones..Gather they are now in the pipeline..Waiting game as usual?
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Steve
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"easy to use phones "
What, you mean phones for just phoning people on? Don't be silly.
Ok, I'll admit, I'd be first in line for one... :-)
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I've got one - it's an old Nokia 3something. It may also send messages - but I can't work out how to do that!
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Nokia 1100 an up to date phone that phones, sends messages and er that's it. Our practice are buying them in bulk for the staff instead of the flippy floppy colour things they keep losing/breaking 'cos they have no respect for company property. Cheap to buy and replace.
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Thanks for the recommendations. However 3 mobile on closer inspection, does not seem good value on the PAYG. Although wifey and I each run a phone on contract with them and are pleased with the value for money they provide, PAYG terms are no good for our daughter. The top ups (min £15) are only valid for 30 days, so our daughter would have to top it up every month, spending £15 regardless of how much she used it.
Every other provider's top ups seem to last indefinitely.
This is where I am a little - well very reluctant to get one. She actually has one a Sendo 300 that cost £19.99 from Woolworths. Excellent value in my book, but it's not a colour screen - yawn. It's on a Virgin sim card, which means she can also use a redundant Nokia 3410 - left over from a contract I had on One to One without having to get it unlocked.
If I did get her one, a one to one or Virgin networked sim would be ideal so she can switch the sim cards etc. However the others may do, but not 3.
Any further ideas chaps?
Cheers
H
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Hugo - can't help on what phone to buy but there are many phone sites from which you can unlock your phone for free. If you wish, I can send you the URL.
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Adam
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Hugo,
What about 02? There is a particular PAYG tarriff that as long as you spend a minimum of £10 per month, you get 300 free txt messages thrown in for nothing. As mentioned further up this thread, youngsters thrive on using txt messaging.
Sometimes there are special offers where the SIM cards are given away for free.
An 02 SIM should work ok in that Nokia 3410. You just need to unlock it, which can be done free here:-
www.trycktill.com/eng/unlock_swe.asp
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That's the site I used H but wasn't sure if I was allowed to post here!
There you go though
Cheers Dave!
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Adam
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Adski,
I posted that site before and it helped HJ unlock one of his Nokias, so I'm *sure* he won't mind it being mentioned again ;O)
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Hugo- This may interest/or not as case may be
www.tescomobile.com/details_package.aspx?pc=5&tc=1...#
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Steve
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I find the site linked below particualrly useful for the latest mobile phone deals:- www.users.totalise.co.uk/~lauriem/dealsoftheday.ht...l
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>>Any further ideas chaps?
Yes, don't get her a PAYG phone at all. If you trust her restraint, get her a contract in your name. With a set limit if you need.
Buy the phone down the market. You'll find the one in Exeter sells them. They are not stolen, or at least not from end-users, and they are cheap because they are normally the model before the current one.
Check the free ads. There's always loads of second hand ones for sale; do try not to buy a stolen one - it only encourages the hyenas. After Christmas, there'll be loads of them for sale.
Check e-bay.
My Mother (Orange) and I (Vodafone) can switch SIMS between our phones without issue. Neither has been modified.
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Any further ideas chaps? Cheers H
Mrs H and I have 2 phones on the same Orange Value Promise plan using the Virgin tariff.
A typical example is my October bill, me: 149 minutes, 30 texts, Mrs H: 76 minutes, 6 texts; total bill £38.65,
Orange coverage suits my usage in North Yorkshire and I think this is good value.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
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Orange stopped matching this tarriff back in the springtime. Latest ad saying OVP still not including Virgin.
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Ah Hugo
Caved in at last to young P's demands have we?!
The O2 PAYG free text SIM is a good one. If you need more info let me know.
Cheers
Charles
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Thanks all, now I'm even more confused:)
I don't see her using more than £10 per month. If anything I suspect it will be a lot less. She'll probably play the games on it and show it off to her mates.
The texts are more likely to be popular with her than the actual calls, so I think I'll look for a PAYG tarrif that gives advantageous text deals.
She has seen the phone she wants, yes the cat's out the bag. It's apparently in Woolies (not the cat, the phone), so no doubt she will be able to point it out to me.
Cheers all
H
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