******* Thread now closed, please see volume 50 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=24186
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PC\'s. They now go in another Thread.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 49. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please \"Reply to\" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it\'s own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
No Dosh - Backroom Moderator
mailto:moderators@honestjohn.co.uk
|
Came home form the annual holiday this morning to find a nasty letter from a debt collection agency threatening a visit from the baliffs if I don't pay up some money. They gave me 10 days to cough up or action will be taken. 10 days will be up tomorrow. Thing is, I do not owe the money. Without going into all the dull details the gas company thought I owed them some money when I moved house whereas they actually owed me. I called them and sorted it all out and was promised a cheque. Apparently my records show they owe me. However, I have received a number of letters demanding the cash they originally wanted from me. Each time I get a letter I call them and think it is sorted out. They agree they owe me. Now I have a letter from the debt collectors threatening visits, court action and a black mark on my my credit history. I am concerned that there will be a couple of burly blokes at the door in the next few days. Naturally I am incandescent with rage about this but what can I do? I will of course be in the phone tomorrow morning to the gas company but what if there is a knock on the door tomorrow morning? Can they come in? If I go out the back door can they block my car in the drive? If they do arrive and block me in or get nasty or refuse to go away can I call the police? After all, I don't owe anybody anything.I am thinking of threatening the gas company with the small claims court for the cash they have owed me for nearly 3 months.
Any advice?
Many thanks
|
Baillifs will not enter the house if you state that the matter is still under discussion adn in any event, you have documentary proof that you do not owe the money.
If they do enter, they cannot take away goods, they simply put a lien on them and give you a few days to pay. This gives you a breathing space to tell the gas co. what has happened. Also, go to see a lawyer immediately or the nearest Citizens Advice Bureau
--
Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive?
|
1. The baliffs will not be coming round in the next few days - they'll wait a bit to see if it frightens you into paying up (sending the boys round costs money, so they'll put off doing that for as long as possible. A frightening letter only costs 24p (or whatever a stamp costs these days).
|
Contact your local newspaper.
There is nothing that your gas company will like less than some bad publicity.
H
|
I agree with the others. I have had similar situation with debt collectors for a mobile phone co. which owes me money rather than the other way round.
This has been going on for four years! They phone and write on a regular basis and initially I explained the situation to them on three occasions before ignoring calls and leaving their very distinctive envelopes unopened.
They are a pain, but they don't want to challenge in Court, and they have to do this before there is any question of bailiffs being involved.
Do your debt collectors come from Manchester by any chance?
|
Its very simple. You make two copies of the letter. Then print up a reply and attach it to the letter from the collection agency and post it to the gas company and the Debt collection agency. You also include an invoice of £25* to the Gas company.
* this is to cover the inconvenience and time spent dealing with the matter and unwarranted stress and upset.
Do this each time you get a letter and they soon get the message.
|
|
They'll do that, too. When I changed gas company there was an almighty great fuss. They didn't believe I'd been so parsimonious in my use of gas, so Transco told them to bill me an extra £500. In the end... I asked them for £40 towards my effort, costs etc. and got it.
|
|
|
Stop messing about and write to the CEO - you should be able to find his name on the 'net no bother. Mark the letter 'Private and Confidential'. Polite is the order of the day. Point out that his company owes you money, and has done since whenever. Explain you have tried normal avenues but are now threatened with baliffs which is causing you distress. Give them 7 days to respond with what they are going to do to rectify the matter, including appropraite recompense for your effort / distress - otherwise you will go to the small claims court. If nothing is forthcoming within 7 days (it almost certainly will) then get down the small claims court and start proceedings against them - it doesn't cost much (there is a long thread on it here somewhere) and you will get it back anyway.
We need to give these so called 'service' companies a kick up the rear!
--
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
|
Thanks for all the advice over the last few days. I spoke to Customer Services and they primised to call off the bailiffs and to get back to me within a day. Still waiting for a response after 2 days. I particularly like RichardW's idea and will be doing this a soon as possible
Robin
|
Another avenue for you (or anyone else with a problem with power suppliers) to follow, is to write to:
A Consumer Advisor
Energywatch
Gas and Electricity Consumer Council
Boulton House
Chorlton Street
Manchester
M1 3HY
Give details of your problem and you will then have them on your side. They take the case up with the supplier and the supplier has to reply within twelve working days.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Gat a solictor to threaten THEM with a lawsuit for harassment. you can get legal advice from one via the citizens advice bureau for a small sum. You have done nothing wrong this company is just a bully. Tell them you are going to e-mail every paper in the country with the story if they don't immediately sort it out and send you a written apology.
|
|
|
|
I am in the process of reassembling a class A audio amplifier after replacing worn switchgear, but have hit a snag.
On starting to bolt the four power transistors to the enormous heat sink, I noticed that three of them faced against a thin (3/4 mm) oblong (20mm x 25mm) sheet stuck to the heat sink, but the fourth didn't. Only a mark on the heat sink to show it had been there originally.
On gently touching one of the three thin sheets that remained, it readily detached from the heat sink, leaving behind a chalk-like deposit. Also resulting was a perfect finger print on the sheet where the 'chalk' had been. I describe this only to give detail in case relevant.
The sheet itself appears to be glass, though is probably mica.
So, now to my question.
With what (household, preferrably) item should I fabricate a new sheet, please? I am not sure if it exists to provide electrical insulation from the amp chassis, good heat conduction (in which case how hot does a power transistor typically get), or both?
Many thanks.
|
Right
Let me see if I have this right.
You have 4 power transitors, all bolted to the heat sink. Three of them had the mica (yes its probably mica) spacer and one didnt. Are the transistors the oval shaped ones with legs that stick throught holes in the heat sink?
right answers i know
1/ The chalk is dried out heat sink compound. Used to aid heat transfer. it will need to be replaced. get it at maplins.
2/ The mica sheets would be a barrier to heat transfer so must have been put there for electrical isolation (audio amp yes? probably to reduce induced noise or hum)- did they use nylon nuts and bolts?
3/Hot? yes at full pelt these things can be running at 60c when attached to the heat sink, take them off and they will easily hit 100c and frazzle.
So your new material needs to be temperature resitant to 60c but able to conduct heat away from tranny to heat sink and electrically resitant. I suggest a visit to the Radio spares or Maplins* web site where they should have these things in stock.
*If you have the oval can type transitors with two fixing holes they are TO3 or T066
RN94C TO3 Insulator
RN95D TO66 Insulator
or the flat type with one mounting hole they are T0220 or TOP3
RN96E TO220 Insulator
RN97F TOP3 Insulator
or some fancy types with moulded lugs
CH03D TO220 1 Piece Mount
CH04E TO3 1 Piece Mount
|
Many thanks, RF.
Yes, you have the basic facts understood spot-on, but here's some extra description:
The (huge) alloy heat sink is bolted directly to the amp chassis. The fins point towards the front of the amp, and it is to the vertical back surface (20cm wide x 8cm tall) that the four power transistors are bolted, themselves also vertical.
The transistors are oblong in shape (marginally smaller than the 20mm x 25mm mica plates) though with markedly chamfered top corners, and have a single mounting hole near the centre of the top edge. They appear to be made in two parts, these being a matt black body fixed to a shiny metal plate (looks like chrome though probably isn't) that butts up against the mica sheet.
The three legs come directly out of the bottom of the transistors, and pass through holes in the circuit board to which they are soldered on the underside.
The four transistors are comprised of two pairs of two, bearing the following legend:
SK
C3854
750
SK
A1490
750
Finally, each transistor is attached to the heat sink with a flat head, fine threaded, metal screw, with no nylon washers or other apparent insulation beyond the mica sheet. This fact surprised both me and my father when we saw it.
Unless you come back with further suggestions, I will follow up the information that you kindly gave earlier, and have a gander on the Maplins web site.
Many thanks indeed! :-)
|
Nope nothing to add,
www.maplin.co.uk
click on components - semiconductors - semiconductor accessories and the bottom you will find the two types - think you want the TOP3 type. Gets some heat sink compound while you are there - dont use too much a very thin smear both sides of the insulator will do the job - it aids heat transfer.
|
Many thanks, RF! :-)
Taking a trip to Maplins right now...
Can't wait to have the amp up and running again. I might have purchased it new in 1988, but it has a wonderful tonal quality, effortless oomph that belies the apparent 40wpc rating, and zero audible hiss at any volume, so when the volume brushes and channel selectors started played up and defied attempts with contact cleaner to make things better, I didn't want to scrap it. £45 for components and several hours later (okay, several hours of Dad's time with a tiny soldering iron and magnifying glass!), I hope to have returned it to prime condition. Worth a pop to use in my 'home office' anyway, as a new amp to the same spec would be several hundred notes.
|
I'm still using my NAD 7030 tuner-amplifier bought for £138 in 1979. Buying the tuner and amp separately was nearer £200.
Only a modest 30 watts per channel, it has 60w output transistors and can handle transients of up to 3dB; speakers from 2 to 8ohms can be used.
Sound quality is still superb and, in contrast to later NAD models (New Accoustic Dimension), it's a genuine made in Japan model rather than having been assembled in Taiwan or China.
|
|
|
|
Your help was spot on, thanks RF.
The TOP3 mica insulators I ordered have just arrived, and are exactly the correct size. Unfortunately, the heat sink compound is on back order, so I'll have to wait another few days to find out if the amp is as rejuvenated as I hope.
I do however have another toy to play with in the mean time, courtesy of Maplins! For the princely sum of £29.99, a radio transmitter and receiver for sending audio vidual signals round the house! It works too, well, having played with the channel options and chosen one that is interference-free.
With a 'DVD only' lounge (by choice), and the VCR connected to the TV in the home office, I no longer have to endure Dawson's (wretched) Creek when I'm working and the Missus has some spare time! Result! :-))
|
|
|
|
|
I don't know how domesticated members of the Backroom are. If the answer is not at all, think of this as a chemistry question.
I have a water-resistant fleece jacket whose washing instructions tell me to avoid the use of detergents. Is this possible? What alternative to detergent is there? I can only think of soap flakes but maybe I need a more specialised product.
Any ideas?
|
Other than having a word with your nearest Dry Cleaning Agent then get a DVD from the Shop on India, find a good flowing stream, a large roack and and as your name suggest give it some wellie...
DVD
|
|
|
Welliesorter,
if you go to a large outdoor equipment and camping shop they used to stock various specialised washing solutions for waterproofed materials, down and specialist manmade fibres.
StarGazer
|
I have both a Goretex jacket and a (separate) waterproof fleece that gave much the same care instruction.
I sought advice from a certain very helpful camping and trekking shop (Outside Tesco in Old Amersham, if you live in the area), who advised to use non biological detergent, by hand, followed by a gentle rinse in a washing machine (cold water only, with no spin) that includes a waterproofing agent that they sold me.
This works a treat, and was put to the test on holiday in Sweden last week. Not a drop of water passed through in truly torrential rain. I suggest though that you take your jacket to an outdoor shop yourself, so they can see it and read the care label, and ask for their advice.
|
|
|
|
Use something ordinary Soap Powder which is, fairly obviously, soap and does not contain detergent. They're pretty well described on the box, but I suspect that its Fairy that you want.
And as for specialised product, who can be bothered ! I have a lot of fleeces and use them for sailing and hanging around on surf beaches. They need washing a lot and they get slung in the washing machine. And given that my wife is always trying to throw the older ones (10 yrs+) away , I guess hte treatment isn't wearing them out or making them any less water resistant.
|
I have a lot of fleeces and use them for sailing and hanging around on surf beaches.
:: chortle ::
Anyone for Baywatch and the gorgeous, er, Mark?
|
|
I would have thought that an Alferr owner would have plenty of need for something to keep them warm and dry.
|
I've got something to keep me warm and dry; it's a Fiat Brava.
Actually I was rather impressed. Very civilised on the motorway and A roads. Not very keen on corners mind. Bit like a 4x4 in that respect.
:oP
|
Children children...Don't make me delete this thread.
;-)
Adam
|
you want to be careful, young Adam; some of us have edit buttons and some of us do not. And they can be mis-used you know. We wouldn\'t want to see you suddenly changing your voting in the Big Brother Garage, now would we.
M.
|
|
Thanks for the responses. I work near several outdoor wear shops so I'll check them out. If I don't find anything suitable there, I'll try the soap powder. I do wonder whether bog standard wash powder would do any harm. I've never known it to with anything else.
I've owned many fleeces ranging in price from dirt cheap to moderately pricey and I've found that there isn't always a direct correlation between price and quality. I've never seen one with such picky washing instructions before, but none of the others I've owned make the same claims about water resistance.
|
|
I think you'll find its as much the chemicals they put on it, as the material itself, which will be damaged by detergents.
|
An article in last week's telegraph at tinyurl.com/5sfzu tells you all about washing delicates.
|
Millets sells a product called NIKWAX. I use it for washing my ski jacket. You first wash it using the detergent free liquid then put it through the wash again with the waterproofing liquid. Works fine
www.millets.co.uk
--
If at first you do succeed, try not to look astonished
|
Millets sells a product called NIKWAX. I use it for washing my ski jacket. You first wash it using the detergent free liquid then put it through the wash again with the waterproofing liquid. Works fine www.millets.co.uk -- If at first you do succeed, try not to look astonished
NIKWAX are a manufacturer, and if Welliesorter goes into an outdoor shop and asks for Nikwax, what he is likely to end up with is a tin of dubbin substitute, which is unlikely to do his fleece any good !
however, Nikwax do do a product called 'Loft Tech Wash-In', which should do the job.
|
Use Techwash for years. It is great on Goretex and similar materials.Also encourages beading of rain drops rather than soaking in.
--
I wasna fu but just had plenty.
|
|
Do I remember rightly that tumble drying restores the ability of Goretex to bead rain?
|
Tumble drying causes goretex to delaminate and lose its waterproofing qualities, or so I thought.
Now I think otherwise!
www.rei.com/online/store/LearnShareDetailArticlesL...p
|
Nor according to me since what it recommends on that site is what I do - warm wash, tumble dry, wear, drink. (although that last one isn\'t strictly neccessary for fleece care).
And mine last for years seemingly without any ill-effect and certainly nothing like delamination. Where do you buy yours Alan ? Blackbushe on a Sunday ?
|
Sorry, hit "post" before I had finished.
I had an Aquatex (similar to goretex) kayak cag that delaminated after a while, as did a mountain bike jacket after similar abuse.
Since switching to pukka goretex I've tended to be a lot more careful when cleaning my kit but it seems I've been overdoing it and should have been tumbling the stuff.
:: shrugs ::
Not that I have time to use any of it these days. My kayak is currently home to a hundred spiders and my mountain bike is behind a pile of lanwmowers and other garden machinery. My skis just sit there reminding me how great winter can be.
:o(
|
Salt is a dessicant which means it attracts water.
Errr well I know what they're trying to write...
|
No Dosh, are you abusing your edit button ? Because I'm sure that the "or so I thought. Now I think otherwise!" wasn't there a minute ago.
|
|
As No Dosh becomes No Edit Button...
|
No Dosh, are you abusing your edit button ? Because I'm sure that the "or so I thought. Now I think otherwise!" wasn't there a minute ago.
I think that's what "sorry, I hit 'post' before I finished" meant.
|
>>\"sorry, I hit \'post\' before I finished\"
is *ANYTHING* going right for you this week ? I should give up now and start the weekend before it gets any worse if I were you.
|
Never tried tumble drying , think it is important to get it clean.
We'll be debating the merits of vacuum cleaners next.
Must get back to cleaning behind the fridge.
--
I wasna fu but just had plenty.
|
|
|
|
|
I may be about to buy a house situated in a dip or smallish valley. The mobile phone signal is OK on the surrounding hills / slopes but it's dead around the low lying house.
Can you use a car phone aerial to improve the signal?
Or what about an aerial on the end of a long vertical pole?
How do you connect it to the phone?
Or just give up and use the land line?
Or just live somewhere else.
Any help appreciated.
|
Ok, point 1
High frequencies radio waves are generally line of sight* so if the signal is passing over your dip, then the signal just isnt there to pick up. The aerial needs to be up into the signal "stream"
Point 2
Revisit the house, and see how high you have to climb out of the valley before signal re-appears. If its higher than the roof top of the house you intend to buy forget it. You wont get a signal. Nothing you can do short of sticking a 60 foot(or however high you need to go) mast up, expensive coaxial cable, signal boosters etc.
If however you get a flicker of signal at or just below roof top, then yes you can stick a hi gain antenna ( a whip aerial bout twice the length of a car mobile aerial) on the roof or fascia and run the cable (not too long mind) to the car phone and plug it in (depends on model - nokias sometimes have a plug on the back, most others through the multi socket on the bottom (buy a proper car kit) - some have no way of feeding external signal in) or buy a mobile phone re-radiating kit.
However as i say If you cant get a signal at approx roof top height - no dice.
* yes yes I know about scatter, reflection, tropospheric disturbance, inversion layers etc - not relevant in this case as not reliable.
And yes you could build a repeater on the hill and beam the signal into the valley - Bit OTT tho!
|
Thanks Renault, but I didn't really want to find out it was near impossible!
Next time I go I will certainly get up high in the house and see what sort of signal I can get. Trouble is - it can sometimes take a few seconds for the phone to register itself so a bit time consuming.
Another problem is the house is in France - not so easy for a quick look.
But, I remember country areas in the UK in the mid-late 1980's when mobiles where just coming in. Some areas were v. dodgy for a signal but improved over the years as more transmitters (relays?) were built. So in time maybe we could get a signal there. Thing is I need it now, long before installing a land line, internet, Sky TV etc.
A thought - can you use satellite for communicating? I don't mean the mega expensive Afghan, Bin ladin, BBC TV reporter type.
|
France. Remember this is a very rural country. It's 8 (? - I'm no geographer & I'm afraid I cannot be bothered to google up an answer) times the area of Britain but with an identical population.
I guess that the chances are that the most rural areas aren't going to gain the extra telephone masts you require, as the population density in rural areas just isn't going to justify the expenditure. Waiting in hope is therefore possibly a no-go.
|
You may be right, but the likely future numbers of souls in the countryside are being swelled with Brits at an alarming rate. I didn't really believe what I'd read about 250,000 or 300,000 or even 500,000 (depends which newspaper) UK citizens now owning house in France, but it's all true - it seems like millions of them. Every supermarket at any time of day in any location will have its share of British voices. Not one village I looked in had no Brits living in it (and I was looking to get away from them - not following the herd of which it seems I am now part).
E.g. remote village with nothing going for it has 32 houses - 3 owned by Brits.
E.g. got lost in a tiny place and used my best French when asking the way from the first (only) person I saw - it was an English lady whose lived there for 9 years.
Most seem to be refurbishing wrecks of buildings into proper houses and then building a second for rent.
So maybe more phone masts will be built to serve these growing communities.
|
France huh?
you dont want a signal.
Every call made to your mobile will add the overseas part of the cost to your bill.
Thought
was your phone an unlocked tri or dual band? you may get a better signal with orange/tmobile or vodaphone/o2 bands or vicky vercy. (not sure what frequencies the french providers use)
|
The plan is to use a UK mobile for emergencies and just about as long as it takes to buy a French one - so cost not really an issue. Daughter was with us and had 4-band(?) top notch all singing all dancing (you know teenagers) Motorola and still had no signal.
|
|
|
|
Last night whilst cooking dinner I turned on the kitchen light. There was a large bang and the lights did not come on. No problem thinks I, blown bulb and the RCD has tripped. So, I reset the circuit breaker and try again. Nothing doing. The circuit breaker will not stay in the ON position. I have now removed all the bulbs from the kitchen lights (in case one of them was causing a problem) but still the breaker will not stay on. My wife is away at the moment so my only assistant is my 4 year old son and he tells me that the kitchen lights did come on whilst I held the breaker on (clearly this was before I took out all the bulbs). I did think that perhaps the steam from the brocolli had shortcircuited something but it was still not working this morning, ie after having had time to dry out.
Any ideas? Thanks
|
Robin,
Exactly what has tripped? the RCD which protects all (or most) of the circuits or the minature circuit breaker for the lighting circuit?
If it is the RCD it could be the lights, but it could also be anything else in the house causing the problem.
If it is the lighting mcb (what used to be a cartridge or rewirable fuse) then it will be a fault on that particular circuit.
Locating fault
If it is the RCD:
1. turn off all the mcbs for each circuit (lights, power, immersion, cooker etc) and switch the rcd back on. then turn on each circuit mcb until the rcd trips. The fault lies on that circuit.
If it is the mcb:
Switch off all appliances /lights on that circuit and switch on the mcb, if this doesnt work then even remove light bulbs until you have located the fault.
Of course if you are not happy working with electricity then call someone in.
get back to us with further details and we can try to help.
regards
StarGazer
|
|
|
I once had an RCD that protected all (most) of the circuits in the house.
When it blew (every time a lightbulb went) it sometimes wouldn't cope with being reset whilst all the circuits were switched on.
So switch off the various circuit breakers (or remove the individual fuses from all the various circuits) in the house. Then see if RCD resets. If so, you're away, and can reinsert each fuse (or switch each circuit on) one by one & you will be fine.
If it's just the kitchen lights circuit breaker that won't go on, you've got a problem in the kitchen (he wrote helpfully). Perhaps a mouse has chewed through a cable causing it to short circuit?
PS Serves you right for making a four-year old eat Broccoli!
|
PS Serves you right for making a four-year old eat Broccoli!
Just about the only green vegetable my 4-year old daughter will eat.
Mind you, I understand the correct pronounciation amongst 4-year olds is "Kuh-Bock-oll-ee"
|
For four years my son thought Broccoli was called Mac-don-alds and spinach was called bur-ger-king.
Boy was he mad when he found out the truth.
|
Well, my son actually asks for seconds of his brocolli and thinks that MacDonalds sell worm burgers and slug burgers. I think we have Roald Dhal and an evil daddy to blame for that.
This is first time the RCD has gone since we bought the house so I will defo give Mapmaker's (well, I think it was his) suggestion about switching all the circuits off a go. Hope I can find the burglar alarm code though. Cheers
|
|
|
|
as opposed to a 2 year old who knows words such as trouserers, furry cinpress, jypamas and Landcruisers are cool.
M.
p.s. I might have exaggerated the last one.
|
|
My dog knows landcruisers - he calls them RUFF tho
|
|
|
To be fair, Little Miss No Dosh first coined the term "cobbocoli" at about 2 and a half, but it seems to have stuck, due in no small part to No Dosh and Mrs No Dosh repeating it ad-nauseaum.
In the future will we embarass our kids by showing them these forum posts rather than getting out the family photo album?
|
No nothing beats showing your son's first girlfriend the piccy taken of him at 6 months old naked on the rug or the one with baby food spread round his chops, or the video of him seeing the seaside for the first time and rushing into the sea getting his nappy wet and being nocked over by a wave....
Ah the pleasures of parenting.......
|
Meanwhile back at the problem...following advice based upon my knowledge from rewiring my house - I am not a qualified electrician.
Has the circuit breaker popped many times in the past few years? If so, it could be that that has gone. My tame electrician reckons that the newer, more sensitive ones may go in as few as 50 "pops".
Try swapping breakers - should be pretty simple if your box is like mine, but make sure the power's off. If that doesn't resolve it, then I would be forced down the brute force route. Remove the cable leading from the breaker (and the one leading back), and check using a meter that there is no continuity between the earth and either of the other cables (at both ends of the loop). If there isn't leakage to earth, you'll need to pass the problem on to a professional.
If there is leakage to earth, then go round the circuit removing the cable from one unit (light, etc) at a time, check for leakage to earth again by the breaker box (on both the out and in cable), then reconnect and go on to the next one. Eventually you should get to a light or whatever that stops the earth leakage when you disconnect it. That's the dodgy one. Replace and retry.
If you're not sure about doing this (and even if you are, it's a lot of hassle), get a sparky in, as it's a lot cheaper than getting a fireman in.
Hope this helps, and if anyone thinks any of this is wrong, please feel free to butt in; this is too important to get wrong.
V
|
|
I have had breakers go "soft" or fail after a major short, ie they never worked again and needed to be replaced
|
You can do a simple continuity test to establish lack of continuity between your Phase, Neutral and CPC. An electician will use either a 16th edition tester, a low resistance ohmmeter or an Insulation resistance tester, but you may find the problem with a multimeter. The following is a safe way of doing it, provided you take care.
Roughly speaking. Confirm what the breaker supplies.
Turn off the power at the main switch so all your breakers and RCD are isolated.
Then open up the consumer unit, remove problem breaker and identify the Phase (live to everyone else) Neutral and CPC (circuit protective conductor or Earth) for that circuit.
Disconnect these remembering where they were connected - very important when you have an RCD protecting some of your circuits.
With all the bulbs removed and the switches ON, you should get no coninuity between any of these.
If you find continuity between Phase and earth, then you have a short between these. This is an earth fault.
If you find continuity between Phase and Neutral, then you have a short circuit,
Once you have identified the problem, (if the multi meter will pick it up) then you need to investigate all the connections in the house.
If you work through this for now, I haveto go and take my little darlings to the cinema. Let us know how you get on and I'll be back
Hugo
|
Thanks for all the advice guys. I now have lights in the kitchen and have identified the source of the problem. One of the recessed spotlights in the ceiling has a fault and was causing the mcb (not rcd!) to pop. I have totally removed it and everything is now fine. Now all I need to do is find a new spotlight fitting - even though it is a very simple piece of kit there is nothing obviously wrong with it.
A virtual pint to you all for saving me the cost of a real-life sparky
|
Robin,
Thanks for reporting back and updating us.
StarGazer
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hello all,
This is the perhaps the strangest question the BR will be asked but you are my only hope as Yamaha don't seem to want to know.
About 2 years ago I got a Yamaha PSR 730 for Christmas. Hopefully you will know what that is otherwise you won't be able to help me fix it! Anyway, it's having a few problems. When playing an intricate piece, it will lock up. I can't do anything without resetting the keyboard. This only happens when playing multiple notes or loud pieces. It should be pointed out that it's an all singing all dancing thing so it's not overloading - I'm more confident of this because after about 20 mins of playing it won't lock up at all. I have tried doing this and you cannot lock it up after about 20 mins.
The next problem is rather more strange but it very intermittent; it can go weeks without happening and then 5 times a day! I can be happily playing Take 5 or some other piece (it isn't picky when deciding to come up with the problem), merrily playing away and then the instruments will change by themselves. You can see the name of the instruments whirring away on the screen by themselves. If you select another thing on the screen such as styles, they too will also change themselves on the screen. It could be unrelated but much of the time when it's going to do this, when you turn the keyboard on, the information will come on but the backlight for the screen will come on a few seconds later but this could just be coincidence.
I realise it's a very odd question and the chances are no-one will be able to help...but you never know...
Many thanks,
Adam
|
I don't know where 2 years came from - I've had it for 4! Also, the problem with the changing instruments happened since I got it. I took it back to where I got it and it never did it for about 6 months but then started again in earnest.
Thanks again
Adam
|
My guess is it is a dry soldered joint. One cannot be certain of this but it is true more often than not, and many an equipment has been made to work again by doing some resoldering.
Your keyboard will have a printed circuit board (PCB) into which the electrical components will have been inserted, usually automatically by machines, and then flow soldered to connect them up, by passing the board over, roughly speaking, a solder bath.
Successful connections require the solder to whet (a soldering flow term) the component leads and connect it to the copper connections on the PCB. A fault occurs when the solder flows round the connecting lead but does not actually connect to it, or barely connects to it because there is an oxide layer on the lead. The board will pass on to automatic test equipment and the 'barely connected joint' may pass the test but then fail later. Especially if the board is flexed.
An experienced eye can often spot dodgy looking joints but some are not so obvious.
The solution is to resolder the joints using suitable flux cored solder. But you need to watch the fact that you can/might damage circuits by your body's static electricity if you go round touching things without being suitably discharged to earth. Also the iron needs a grounding wire connecting it to the earthy of the equipment, as you should be yourself.
Finding the offending connection is not always easy and it is best if you get some idea of the area of the PCB where the problem seems to be. Thus if you can press buttons a little harder than usual and produce a funny effect, hopefully you are somewhere near the area of the board that has the faulty connection/s. But it will still be less than easy unless you are lucky.
Some components (integrated circuits) have many leads spaced a mm or less apart and are solder flat on the board. It is not a good idea to attempt to re-solder these without special equipment as you can easily finish up with a solder blob over several. Nor is it usual for these components to be a problem. First look for leads going through the board.
I have no idea what your expertise is in this area, but I hope this helps.
|
Dry solder joints are not the problem with this keyboard, its a problem with the design, software or the electronics. After a few seconds searching on goggle I found several people that suffer crashes with this model. Perhaps they have produced a firmware update to fix the problem, talking to a specialist shop is my recommendation.
I have spent several years designing and building electronic items and have never suffered a dry joint on my own work. Over the years I have had a couple mass produced items with a dry joint (both hand soldered), modern surface mount PCB's are very reliable.
|
Thank you very very much Buzbee and Carl. I will look into your suggestions and let you know what happens.
Cheers
Adam
|
|
|
I too have spent a long time in eectronics --- 35 years researching and designing all sorts of equipment and systems from DC to microwaves and some optical equipment. Even putting electronics in motor cars before they had them, other than radio. Dry joints DO happen although, I agree, modern PCBs are usually very reliable.
As my final sentences infered, when dry joints do occur, the surface mount components are not usually the problem -- I did say, look for the through-board components. However, this is irrelevant in this case if it is a software fault.
|
|
|
|
|
It seems an increasing number of callers are withholding their phone numbers when making calls. Why?
I can understand it if phoning someone a bit dodgy - but this is me! - why do they do it and why are they surprised when I am a bit sniffy when answering?
Since I have had land line phones with screens and with Caller Line Identification (CLI) enabled, more and more people are using the withheld facility when making calls.
These are domestic calls - to and from a domestic number - so why?
How do other BRers handle these, or is it just me being a GOG?
drbe
|
Our phone has automatically witheld it's number for years! It's not really much of a pain except if someone at home rings your mobile. I don't know why it's automatically witheld but it is. One way of getting around it is dialling 1470 before the number but none of us can be that bothered on the offchance we ring someone with CLI.
That probably hasn't helped but oh well...
Adam
|
|
|
Do you have broadband?
I ask because when we got it our CLI enabled phone started coming up with 'withheld' a lot more often, even on calls from people whose number has appeared before.
|
|
|
I guess you don't mean commercial no's, but a lot of employers withold the number, maybe because they have a lot of telephone lines from the different departments.
I used to have "witheld number" enabled, but for the last 3 - 4 years I've had it in normal number displayed mode. I just decided it was better that way, cos if I phone a friend or family and they don't answer then they can find out it was just me. If I really want to I can do the manual thing.
P.S. For those who don't know, when you hear "we do not have the number to recall" it means it was either a computer or internet based call or it was a call from overseas. And if you get a call that hangs up as soon as you answer and you get the above message, it was a computer checking your number to find out the best time for a cold call marketing (double glazing) company to phone you whilst you're having your dinner.
|
to find out the best time for a cold call marketing (double glazing) company to phone you whilst you're having your dinner.
Not quite true.
Such companies use technology that dials a batch of numbers at once, a far higher number than actual call centre operators, and just as quickly ceases so many of them. That's why your phone may only ring once or twice and then stop.
Best way to stop cold calls is to register at the www.tpsonline.org.uk/ - it can also be done for junk mail via the DPS links on the same website.
|
If you're on BT, there's a choice of two services to deal with witheld numbers. Anonymous call rejection will prevent those who withold their numbers being able to call you at all. Choose to Refuse will enable you to bar the calls selectively: if you answer an unwelcome call and don't want that caller to be able to contact you again you dial a code on your phone.
Either service will work for witheld numbers but neither will work for unavailable numbers (where 1471 says 'we do not have the number...').
Operators other than BT have anonymous call rejection but not Choose to Refuse. I don't think either service is available on a mobile but you can often change the settings on the phone itself to answer calls from particular numbers or send them directly to voicemail.
I'd certainly agree with the advice to join the TPS. It worked for me.
|
|
Yup TPS worked for me too. Had 1 cold call in last 6 months, made them give me their company name and tele no and reported them
|
|
|
|
|
|
I want a cuboard unit installed where there is currently a radiator. Is it ok to put the units somehow 3 inches away from the radiator, and leave a slot along the(top)back for the hot air to come out of? and have the unit on legs so the air can get underneath to the radiator?
|
Would suggest if you install it.Dont use it for any type of food.heat from rad travels upwards and draws cool air from below it ie circulation of air.anything above will heat up including your cupboard.even if over the rad.with vents behind.
--
Was mech1
|
|
|
I want a cuboard unit installed where there is currently a radiator. Is it ok to put the units somehow 3 inches away from the radiator, and leave a slot along the(top)back for the hot air to come out of? and have the unit on legs so the air can get underneath to the radiator?
Quick reply.
Do the job properly?
Remove radiator and substitute a Myson Kickspace Fan Convector or a similar unit. Myson is a well known brand.
Normal cupboard is then installed.
A simple electrical power required for the fan.
tinyurl.com/62tet
|
|
Yup remove the rad and use convector below it as above. Leave the rad there turned on and your cupboard will be shaped like a bananna in months.
|
|
|
We do not know your DIY abilities or are you getting the boys in.
What system do you have?
1. A conventional 15mm pipes & hot water cylinder
2. As above but with microbore pipes
3. Combi boiler and pressurised system
4. Other
Over to you if you require any more advice
|
|
|
|
I tried to preview this a number of times with no success, so if my diagram is not perfect, I hope you can get the general idea...
I don\'t actually have the radiator there, it has been taken off, it was there.
I am going to do it myself. Install a complete central heating system with a combi condensing boiler in the kitchen, 15mm pipes.
The kitchen is L shaped and if I leave the radiator where it used to be then I am taking up the whole of that wall ( about 6ft - kitchen is about 9ft wide at this point) which I would prefer to use for a 120cm(or longer) base unit, double cupboard. So I had the idea of putting the radiator round the corner into the little \'L\' bit if you get what I mean, this L bit is 5ft*5ft square and is going to house the sink unit and washingmachine along one wall, with the boiler on the side wall and the radiator was going to be on the rear wall (opposite the sink).
But, with the rad in the alcove bit of the kitchen the heat might not circulate properly into the main part of the kitchen. If I could have a rad where the old rad was, maybe I could build round it.
So lets assume the radiator will be a double panel and assuming the correct btu value will allow me to have a rad with plenty of room either side say 8 inches or more at each end to build around it.
I thought if I screw a strip of 2*4 onto the wall at each end and make a frame at each end out of 2*4 (say 1m high * 8 inches wide. Then in front of the rad, I screw panel of 22mm something (maybe chipboard or even plywood if I have to) leaving a 6 inch gap on the bottom. Then to that panel I mount the base unit. On top of the base unit there maybe a beechwood worktop made from strips (blocks) of beech glued together. Ideally I would like the work top to stretch from the front of the cupboards right to the back wall, there will be a cut-out along the back say 6 - 8 inches deep to allow the air to rise. However because these worktops are cut to a standard depth I suspect I will end up just glueing two pieces of Off-cut to the back at either end.
I imagine a raised wooden lip about 2 inches high will surround the rad cut-out on the worktop. and depending on how it looks maybe a wood, brass or stainless steel grill over the cut out.
-----???-------
. sw.
. .
. _____
. .
. .
. .
. . B
. .
. /
--????----
??? = backdoor
????= internal door linking kitchen to house
B = Bathroom, s = sink, w = washm/c
/ = bathroom door
You may know about planning rules, and might be able to help on the following... at present in front of the bathroom door there is a 1m square hall (totally useless waste of space) built because of planning laws - bathroom onto kitchen. If I want to do the above (put baseunit infront of rad) then I will have to remove this hall and have the bathroom lead directly onto the kitchen.
I saw a TV program once where they put a bathroom onto a kitchen(with no hall), the presenter said \"The planning rules on bathrooms onto kitchens have changed, so it is ok for us to do this, check with your local council....blah blah blah.\" Does anyone know what the changes she was reffering to are?
I am going to be the one living here, no one from the council will know, and if I sell, it will be buyer beware. So it doesn\'t really bother me.
This Myson fan unit suggested is interesting, you suggest putting it under the base unit? Do you have to turn the fan on and off as the heating goes on and off? It would save me the loss of space behind the base unit, so I am very interested in this idea.
|
-----???--------
................s.w.
.....................
............._____
.............
.............
.............
............. B
.............
............/
--????----
A bit better?
I\'ve edited the original pic. DD
|
>>"The planning rules on bathrooms onto kitchens have changed, so it is ok for us to do this, check with your local council....blah blah blah." Does anyone know what the changes she was reffering to are?
Yes. Building regs. Broadly speaking (and somebody might come along with the exact wording - it's on the internet somewhere), they say something like 'you may not have a bathroom opening onto a kitchen'. Historically (until about 4 years ago) this was interpreted as meaning that you cannot have a bathroom with the door coming off the kitchen. Therefore builders used to put little hallways between the kitchen & bathroom. However, the wording remained the same and is now interpreted as you may not have a bathroom & kitchen in the same room (funny that!).
So you need to check with your local council that they're reading the latest version of the interpretation of the regs.
Isn't it ridiculous that the building regs are written by one bunch of civil servants. A second bunch is required to interpret what the first ones have written. If this second bunch mis-interpret what the first ones wrote, then you end up with ridiculous restrictive regulations.
|
I believe the regulations have recently changed regarding the necessity of having a lobby between WC and kitchen. Apparently if your WC is properly ventilated (mechanically or window) you no longer need two doors between WC and kitchen. How this new rule copes with noises is another thing. I really can\'t imagine comfortably combining noisy use of the WC whilst cooking/eating a door\'s thickness away. But there you go that\'s modern regs.
There\'s also no minimum height of a room - make it 3 feet from floor to ceiling if you like!
|
|
|
|
|
