******* Thread now closed, please see volume 44 ********
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=22516
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PC\'s. They now go in another Thread.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 43. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847
No Dosh
Backroom Moderator
mailto:moderators@honestjohn.co.uk
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The company where I work want to install air-con into an old building (converted barn), but there are issues with installation of the full-blown jobs because of the roof, or something. The alternative I am trying to get them to install are those wall-mounted jobs - I know Toshiba make these, are there any other manufacturers ? That way, the only installation is a hole to the outside wall !
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A UK company called Energy Technique used to offer a range of these - whether manufactured here or imports, I don't know.
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I'm pretty sure that I have seen the name Mitsubishi on the majority of air conditioning stand alone units in Cyprus.
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Yes, lots of manufacturers, Mitsubisi, LG, Panasonic, etc.. Ring up any installers and see which makes they suggest. You can also get heat recovery versions which act as a heat pump, providing heat in winter. Also VRV systems which can cool some rooms whilst heaing others.
Please note that these are 'Split Systems'. The indoor cassette contains the cold evaporator and a fan, the outdoor unit contains the hot condensor coil and the compressor. The holes through the wall for the refrigerant pipes are small, but (and it is a big but) they do not provide any fresh air supply. Strictly speaking, they are cooling systems, not full AC.
If you want to remove the heat emitted by electrical eqipment, they're OK. If you want to provide fresh air, control humidity or remove odours, they're probably not what you need.
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Just watching UEFA Cup Final just now which has prompted a question I have long meant to ask.
Running at the side of the pitch at a lot of games, are cameramen and they seem to be holding a big camera type thingy with just one hand. Are these lighter than they look, are they remote controlled by someone else in a studio as the cameraman doesnt actually seem to look at the camera?
Any technical whizz kids out there?
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I thinks it's called a steadicam and uses gyroscopes and other things to ensure that camera is always steady so you get smooth shots:
A google search should yield info such as...
kiwifilm.com/steadfaq.html
entertainment.howstuffworks.com/steadicam.htm
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Cheers for that Martin, curiosity now cured.
Also, really interesting site as well - think thats going into the favourites!
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Suggestions, please for the best route Cheshire to Dartford, hitting M56/M6 junction about 8am.
1. M6
2. M6 relief road
3. A50/M1
All current experience gratefully received! (Pre relief road, the A50 was the only sensible option).
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Did near identical journey over Easter. We used M1 and it was fine except at M1/M25 junction up to Toddington Services which always seems to be very slow (or stationary) in my experience. Can't remember what time we did it though.
Coming back on Easter Sunday there were about 3 cars on M6 toll road and at least 2 mobile speed cameras (obviously very low crime rates around Birmingham that allow police to concentrate on catching motorists speeding along empty motorways) - so be careful.
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That's 8am tomorrow, Friday, morning!
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How come Mapmaker is asking for a route?
Seriously, I reckon that whichever way you go there will be probs you need to allow for. Living in Leics we always use A50 to get from M1 to Cheshire because it is relatively quiet, but there can be probs at the Nottingham end where M42/A42 joins M1.
Assuming you will use the M25 for last part you might also consider using M1 or M1/A14/A1 or M1/A14/M11 to get to M25. When going from Leics to Dover we always discuss it and then always go M1/M25 because we have had real probs with traffic near Cambridge using M11, and the A1 is quite a bit of dual carriageway which can be very congested.
If you do use M1/M25 stop at Sainsbury's superstore at junction 22 on M25 - it's much cheaper than South Mimms services!!
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Anyone had new cards/PINs issued by their bank? I have, multiple times!
However, on the couple of occassions I have needed using the new PIN with my card in different stores the card has been rejected - presumably for the wrong PIN.
Yesterday went straight outside the rejecting shop, and got £10 out of the hole in the wall using the same card and number.
Is it a different number for cash v chip & pin? Or what?
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Same number.
Pound to a penny it's operator error on the tills.
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From what I was told chip & pin was same no used for cash machine.if not you can alter it.agree with ND error on tills
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Same number. Pound to a penny it's operator error on the tills.
Must be customer error, surely? The card is inserted into "the machine" and the customer keys in the PIN. With chip and PIN there should be no human involvement other than from the customer ~ should there?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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I find logging in/out to the Backroom rather tedious. As I am the sole user of my home computer, is there any reason why I shouldn't remain permanently logged in?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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The system won't let you. You will, in about 25 minutes I think, be timed out if you are showing no activity.
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When does a letter of resignation become binding so that the resigner cannot return to their old employment? A collegue has resigned as they have been offered another job. The other job won't let them start until they have a reference but we have not supplied a reference as the reference wants specific information on attitude and instances of misconduct. We just want rid of them so I want to make sure they cannot come back to their old job. Does the resignation become binding when accepted by their manager or when they get a letter from HR to say the resignation has been accepted? Or, horror of horrors, does it not become binding until the notice period has ended?
teabelly
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teabelly,
Be careful, you can get yourself sued very easily.
If you criticise anything about the employee, then make sure that it is something that you can a) justify AND b) is something you had already formally addressed with the employee.
For example if you said that their attitude was awful, you would first have to justify that and give examples and second be able to show that this had been addressed with the employee to give him a chance to correct the situation.
Also, if you say his attitude is wonderful, ut some formal evidence exists that it was not, then the company he is going to can sue you.
Without knowing your particular issue, I suggest that you send the official minimum which is time served, roles held, and reasons for leaving.
As for the resignation, it becomes binding when it has been accepted by HR.
If you want to e-mail me offline, then that would be fine.
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Right, I didn't know you had to only mention things they have been actually disciplined for. Unfortunately we have kind of given up with them and just took away all responsibility as the problems had been going on long enough for us to have kind of accepted the way they were which makes it more dangerous to mention their negative aspects as they haven't been formally addressed in some time.
Is it ok to put under specific questions (they ask for instances of misconduct and general attitude) that you are unable to comment?
teabelly
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Er... I may be missing something here but
Bloke A has resigned from your employment...
Bloke A his new job is dependant upon a reference from you.
These 2 things are unrelated surely?
Firstly if he has tended his resignation and you have accepted it, then it's official. You obligation to him is discharged ( and his to you) at the end of the notice period ( obviously you can elect to "pay him off") He could ask you to reconsider his resignation but you are under no obligation to re-hire him.
Resigning from one job is not dependant upon having another t go to.
Secondly, you are under *no* obligation you supply a reference, if his job offer falls through because of a lack of reference that is not *YOUR* problem.
You are entitled to say, yes he worked here from then until now and leave it at that, you can also say things like he had X days sickleave in period Y ( providing you have a record of such).
You are obligated to not supply a BAD reference but you don't *have* to supply one.
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They're still within the official notice period which is why I wanted to make sure that they couldn't return!
Even better if we don't actually have to supply a reference beyond just putting the dates of employment. It avoids the whole lawsuit issue entirely.
teabelly
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They're still within the official notice period which is why I wanted to make sure that they couldn't return!
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The only way he can do that is if you agree to re-hire him.
Even better if we don't actually have to supply a reference beyond just putting the dates of employment. It avoids the whole lawsuit issue entirely.
Then supply a dates only reference and let his 'new' people make of that what they will.
JaB
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>>you can elect to "pay him off"<<
Only if that is allowed for in his contract of employment. If not then it is a fundamental breach of contract. I know this from personal experience when I left my last employer and this was hugely to my advantage as it freed me entirely from some of the onerous clauses elsewhere in my contract.
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>>but you don't *have* to supply one.
Not quite true.
Firstly it is possible, although very risky, to legally provide a negative reference.
Secondly, you are obliged to give a level of reference, even if that is only a "time served" reference.
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How about the following as a reference -
' If you can get this man to work for you , you will be very lucky '
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"His men would follow him anywhere, but only out of curiosity"
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he is depriving a village of an idiot....
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It is very unusual for any company to ask for a reference that specifies comments on aspects of an employee. As it is very risky to adversly comment on an employee most companies will not offer a reference, other than time served, even for a person who walks on water.
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It is very unusual for any company to ask for a reference that specifies comments on aspects of an employee. As it is very risky to adversly comment on an employee most companies will not offer a reference, other than time served, even for a person who walks on water.
I would think it's because they too have reservations about him...
which makes you wonder why they would go to the trouble of hiring him.
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teabelly, i did a google search for "employment law obligation employee references" and came up with the following, including one from "got-the-boot" and one from the human rights "liberty" organisation: www.got-the-boot.com/law/law-34.htm www.yourrights.org.uk/your-rights/chapters/the-rig...l www.hardwicke.co.uk/civil/articles/00050201.htm www.hrmguide.co.uk/hrm/steele/
Edited by Honestjohn on 20/07/2012 at 18:48
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Thanks, those are really useful.
Luckily the buck has been passed to HR with regard to the writing of the actual reference and they have also confirmed that a resignation is non withdrawable. It was just a scary moment when the new firm wanted a reference before we knew for certain that said employee couldn't return!
teabelly
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"He leaves us: fired with enthusiasm."
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...on this site?
Thanks!
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Right hand side, in "The Back Room" section, second bullet point "My settings".
--
Terry
"You'll have to speak up I'm wearing a towel"
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Go to 'my settings' - top right and click on the My profile tab - Does this mean you are going to tell us all about yourself PG.
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Thanks.
No..I\'m not going to tell you about myself, I just have too much spare time now I don\'t have a degree to get anymore!
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Billy
the hospital in glasgow was
Hci ( Scotland) Ltd
Beardmore street
Clydebank
Glasgow
G81 4HX
and has its own hotel, the Beardmore Hotel, attached.
BILLY - PLEASE CHECK YOUR PC FOR VIRUSES / TROJANS - i have reason to believe it is infected or compromised, as I am receiving spurious delivery rejections claiming to be for the address that you emailed me on, and you are the only person to have used that address
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borasport: it may be worth asking the mods to forward your message by e-mail to billy.
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hi borasport.
thanks for your info on the hospital,very helpful.
was shocked and a bit perplexed to find i might have an infection of sorts, but thanks for the warning. when i connect to the net i always have my firewall (zonealarm) set to high as the default, but i have taken steps to see what the problem may be, i have run (as i do every couple of days) AVG 6.0, SPYBOT S/D,and this afternoon done a "panda" online scan, all of which have detected nothing. after warning several friends, i have sent them e-mails, but they have reported back that nothing detected on thier systems. so i'm afraid i do not know if i was the cause of your problem or not. if any-one can shed any light on this i would be grateful.
one thing, i up-graded from AOL8.0 I.E 5.5 to AOL9.0 I.E 6.0 only last week, could this be the problem?
sorry!!
billy.
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billy - no more dodgy emails since friday
more importantly, get yourself sorted with hospitals. The B.i.l. was a bit confused about the status of his glasgow hospital- NHS or private, but given that his mrs, (my big sister) stayed at the hotel, I think we can assume it is private
also his trip back in an NHS ambulance was uneventful, but when they got to the traffic at M55 junction, they put the lights & siren on and took off down the hard shoulder so they could get home before their shift ended !
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Having Googled to no avail...
Due to a genuine misunderstanding, I've just been saddled with a hefty plumbing bill that is far higher than I expected, and which equates to about £70/hour for routine work.
I am obliged to pay the bill, and the work has been done to a good standard, but out of interest, how does this rate compare with what BRers would expect to pay? I live in Bucks.
Jeez, this rate's getting on for what my Volvo dealer charges, and with the best will in the world, my plumber cannot lay claim to anything like the same overheads!
Cheers.
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sjb: plumbing rates? how long did the job take?
for the first part of hour, you can pay astronomical "per hour" equivalent even if the job only took 1 minute. the plumbers time, petrol, overheads etc. to attend, diagnose, fix, use his skills & knowledge, out of social hours time, etc. all have to be paid for.
did you not hear last year that graduates from cambridge/oxford were taking up plumbing instead of city jobs? maybe you got one of those to attend. ;-)
ask your trading standards for guidance.
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Frequently a plumber will charge a call out fee, and a minimum no of hours. So for example for call out £30, two hours at £35 hour = £100 minimum for any emergency minor plumbing job.
You say however the job was carried out to high standards, thats rare enough these days to cheerfully pay a premium!
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Thanks, Dalglish and RF.
The plumber is a neighbour, who lives but fifty yards away, so I would have hoped a call out fee would not apply! Anyway, it's done, I had agreed to pay his normal rate, and have learned that even where it's a friend or neighbour, ASK BEFOREHAND! ;-)
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Last weekend I cut the flex on my hedge trimmer - luckily without further incident. However, this weekend I've tried reconnecting it using just a normal two pin flex connector but the hedgetrimmer just won't work. It's not the extension lead or the socket so I'm stumped. Is there something I' missing ?
Thanks
Matthew Kelly
No, not that one.
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"Is there something I' missing ?"
Yes me old mate - Volts.
I would hazzard a fuse or circuit breaker has blown somewhere after the cord cutting incident. In the plug?
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I replaced the fuse but as it's an old one recycled from an old plug I s'pose that could be duff as well. The socket I was using is (I think) part of an RCD protected circuit which the house has, I don't know how to reset the RCD if that has blown.
Matthew Kelly
No, not that one.
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I cut the flex on my hedge trimmer - luckily without further incident
>>
i trust you have a safety circuit breaker, "elcb" or "rcd" or whatever they are called, for all outdoor use. if not, get one asap.
why doesn't the trimmer work? well, as rf says, you have probably blown a circuit somewhere.
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Just to bring the thing full circle - new fuse in plug and all is well. Moral of the story being, don't be a cheapskate and use an old fuse, just go to Sainsburys and buy five new ones for 50p.
The hedgetrimmer itself still scares the living daylights out of me though.
Matthew Kelly
No, not that one.
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Can anybody offer me some advice as my 8 year old rides for a motorcycle display team who perform at shows in the south of England and we have several events coming up where we will want to stopover. I would like something that has plenty of space for myself and him plus also no 2 son and maybe even SWMBO :-))))). It needs to be idiot-proof to put up/take down. Any recommendations would be really appreciated.
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If your not familiar with tents, you need to get yourself to a large supplier, (cotswold camping, field & trek, etc) to see what they look like these days, and what most tents are these days are a sealed fabric bag supported by an arrangement of fibreglass or aluminium hoops
but you don't need to buy from the above. subscribe to the newsletters for aldi and lidl - a few weeks ago aldi were offering a three man tent for £24.99 which would almost cerntainly accomodate you and two sons, and accoreing to all the postings that appear in uk.rec.walking, the tents are certainly up to the job
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First tip - don't buy from Cotswold. Top quality but massively overpriced. Some branches of Millets are good, but equally some are rubbish, it depends on the staff. You would be better off going to a town where outdoor sports are popular as there will be lots of independent camping suppliers and shops. Ambleside and Keswick are good for this, but I don't know where you are in the country, also Betsy Co-ed (don't know how it's spelt!) in Wales has a Cotswold Outdoor Outlet and a number of other independent stores selling outdoor stuff at a discount.
My tent is a Vango and is shaped roughly like a snail shell, ie it has two sealed porches/sleeping areas, and a central area. From camping with Guides, I know that Vango tents are really really easy to put up (even for 2 ten year olds to do by themselves).
As it's approaching summer, look out for camping fairs (don't know if you're anywhere near the lakes but there is a massive one at Penrith that is up for the whole summer). This way, you can see all the tents up, see which ones have already gone baggy or will be difficult to get tight (so that water beads off and doesn't sit in pools and eventually become a leaky patch), and also see how difficult it is to clamber/walk in and out of them.
Most importantly, when you've got your tent, don't ever put it away damp. If you have to pack up in the rain, get it out again straight away when you get home. Letting it sit damp damages the waterproofing, and you could be left with a mouldy mess next time you want to use it.
I haven't seen the Aldi tent but I would be wary of putting my trust in a tent that only costs £25. It's your choice but I hope it doesn't rain!
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Lidl were offering a 9 berth tent last week for £79. I picked one up to use at the steam fair this September.
Bunged it up in the garden as Little Miss No Dosh fancied an adventure so we did some back garden camping. sleeping 9 might be a cosy challenge but 6 would be a doddle. It has 3 seperate sleeping areas and a communal area that would allow you to seat 6 around a small table.
It did start to sag after a week (we left it up as a test), but on the whole it's been very impressive. We're going to wash it, re-proof it and store it later today. We have done this with all our tents and never had a leak.
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This is so idiotic I am almost too embarrassed to post but sometimes the anonomous nature of the WWW is a wonderful thing.
I have just bought a lovely new house. The standard of the decor is very high and we have no plans to change it in the foreseeable future. The only trouble is that the previous owner had a lot of photos on the walls. All of them were put up properly with varying sizes of picture hooks nailed to the wall. We don't have enough pictures to use up all the hooks and in many cases they are in the wrong place. So, here is the question:
Any ideas about how I can cover up the holes that removing the nails will leave? The walls are wallpapered. The best I can come up with is take a sample of the wallpaper to the DIY shop and have them mix up a corresponding shade in a test pot. Should cost about 3 quid per pot or so. We have some, but not a lot, of left over paper in the loft.
Cheers
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Think you just about have it spot on. I would only add
1/ take your sample along and have a few pots made up of the main colours used in the pattern, so you have all the options covered.
2/ You will need to fill the hole left over by the nail or pin, as a depression will show up as shadow.
I assume that dirt or fading problems where the pictures were is not a problem.
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Most DIY barns have sets of swatch cards available for colour selection; maybe easier to pick up a set than pplay 'hunt the wallpaper' in the loft ;-)
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Referring to a now read-only IHAQ thread.
You recommended Shoo! insect repellent. Did you get the lotion? If so where did you get it from because the only online shop is telling me they only sell the wipes!
Thanks in advance
Paul
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Ppaul
I got the lotion and the wipes a couple of years back. IIRC last year they only had the wipes, which was what I needed to re-order.
I mainly use the wipes as they're more convenient to carry and well-saturated so you get a good coverage from each one.
HTH
--
Terry
"You'll have to speak up I'm wearing a towel"
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Thank you. I'll get the wipes then.
Paul
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I wonder if anyone has any pearls of wisdom for me? We are currently living in our first home, so have never been in the situation of simultaneously selling one and buying another.
The first question which has occurred to me regards the deposit on the new home.
Do we need to have this saved up seperately as cash?
Can we use the equity in our current home to pay it, or will the selling of our old house happen too late in the proceedings for this?
It seems bizarre that we can afford the mortgage, but the saving up of a 10% deposit will delay our being able to move by, ooh, about 50 years.
Also, general tips about this situation would be well received, including such things as:
How to choose which estate agent to sell our house through
What's a sensible amount of mortgage to limit ourselves to (3x salaries? 4x?)
And anything else you think might save me some heartache.
We haven't looked into this at all before, and suddenly realised last week that our own house has doubled in value over our 2 1/2 years ownership, meaning we have a lot of equity which could be put to good use.
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I moved house last October and my observations on your questions are as follows.
Deposit - we just used the money from the equity in our existing house which had gone up a silly amount in value. No need to save it up seperately.
What's a sensible amount of mortgage to limit ourselves to (3x salaries? 4x?) - that's up to you, but unless you really need to go more than what building societies typically offer (2.5x joint salary is it not?) then don't. And if you think that you do need to go more, consider very carefully. Given current media coverage you may feel more comfortable with a fixed rate of interest.
Estate agent to sell your house - we chose one which had sold a similar house down our road a month or so before, thinking that they must have some idea about value etc. We had had dealings with that agent when buying the house we were then selling (although that was 6 years prior) and found them competent. One is advised to get several agents in to value your house - if you do this, don't just go with the one who gives you the highest valuation, there's nothing to be gained from having your house on the market for 6 months at £10,000 too much. Housing programmes on the TV will tell you to get lots of feedback from your estate agent after every visit so you can see if there's anything glaringly wrong, in practice we found that this just doesn't happen. Either the estate agent will never speak again to the people who come round or they won't extract anything useful from them. No estate agent ever phoned me to discover what I thought of a particular property after I'd viewed it (shame really as I would have loved to have had a conversation with some of the comedians who wrote the descriptions). Essentially there is one piece of feedback that matters, has anyone made an offer and if they haven't the thing that is generally wrong is the price - that's the price for the house as it is, 'Selling Houses' on Channel 4 will tell you that you can slap some paint on, re-tile the bathroom and magically your asking price offer will appear but it still means that your house was overpriced to start with. Our estate agent were good in this respect, after three weeks with several viewings but no offers they suggested a price cut of about 2% and in a week we'd had an offer at the new asking price.
With solicitors, work on the rule of thumb that unless you frequently get in touch with them to find out what is going on, they'll tell you at their convenience, not yours.
Surveys - if you have particular areas of concern, instruct the surveyor very clearly as to what they are. Even then, they'll couch their own findings in language that hints at disaster to come without being specific enough for you to have any comeback on them in the future.
Other things - visit your intended new home at various times of day (not necessarily to view inside, just to get an idea of what the location is like after dark, at rush hour etc). When selling we never had any viewings before 7pm during the week 'cos the road outside was always very busy until then. Your sellers might be doing the same. Hold your nerve, don't be bullied into something you don't want to do (like paying more, or not getting all the details about something) - most people will not be in the fortunate position of not needing to sell to buy so bear in mind that they've got an investment in the process just like you and won't want to ditch all the work that's been done in order to start again. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with being accomodating where you can. We had a company come in & pack all our stuff and move it to the new place. Well worth it, although try not to move on a Monday because then the pre-packers will come in on the Friday and you'll spend your entire weekend with boxes littering your house.
All this assumes that you're buying & selling in England or Wales and we moved within the south east of England, other areas may be different.
Matthew Kelly
No, not that one.
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And dont forget to budget the "hidden" extras to pay.
Stamp duty on your new house, Estate agents fees, and conveyancing costs on selling AND buying. This will all come out of your existing equity, settled by the solicitor.
When you move, come back here for "moving advice"
Dont forget, selling, buying and moving is one of the three most stressful things on earth (along with death and divorce) so keep cheerful!
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Be very sure that you can afford a prospective mortgage. What if interest rates go up by 3 or 4 % or more, (we were once paying 16% a few years back). Get some real examples of the amount of monthly repayment per £1000 at various rates of interest and do the "what if" calculation on your proposed borrowings.
Alternatively re-mortgage your present house ( fixed rate for at least two years preferably) and buy an "off-plan" property on the Costa del Sol. Investors have doubled their money on many occasions by doing this and selling on before completion! The caveat about affordability still applies though!
Roger in Spain
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One site I found useful for weighing up a move to a different area was the 2001 census site :- neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/default.asp?nsid=f...e This gives, amongst others, figures for burglary & car crime.
Aapart from that remember that mortgage rates could be up at 10% in a few years!
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Or
www.upmystreet.com/
will give these and many other useful comparisons.
SWMBO and I are considering downsizing to E Dorset/W Hants/S Wilts next year - this site has provided hours of harmless fun.
--
Terry
"You'll have to speak up I'm wearing a towel"
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Fantastic advice so far, thanks chaps.
Am staying in the same town, so no worries with differing councils etc. North of England.
Subject to confirmation by mortgage advisor (if we get that far before deciding it's a stupid idea) I've worked out what we can afford on our current standard wages, my wife is currently getting 3-monthly bonus' to bring her up to the wage for a job she's seconded to. Since I'm not counting these, and it's 99% certain she'll be given it permanently I think that gives us some breathing space on the estimate.
I'm very happy to know that the equity is used for the deposit, would have been a large stumbling block to find the cash.
We'll have to look further into this and decide exactly what is viable.
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Hi,
I've spent ages trawling through Google today on this, in the hope of sparing the HJ site from the new HF catastrophe, but nothing really helps.
Started out this morning intent on repairing leaky kitchen cold tap. It's been getting worse and worse for ages, and in the end, even changing the washer does nothing to help. Changed it again today, even though it wasn't worn out, and checked it looked exactly the same as the hot tap, which it does - but water still streaming out.
This is my first problem. The fact that water damage under sink has caused loads and loads of problems I will maybe have to come to later - but as a first step I really need to know what I can do about this tap.
It's very old, and I recall a couple of years ago when I had a plumber in on a different matter, he was going to change the kitchen taps but even he wasn't able to get the old ones off. (when I say old, I think I'm talking even older than Volvoman). ;)
There are two places in the pipework under the sink which seem to be leaking - one from a normal (sorry I have no idea of correct terminology) junction between pipes, which for now I have just put some tape around to stop it leaking so much. But the main one, this one caused I am sure by the leak of the tap, is very very inaccessible.
I've already had to wrench off the cupboard doors, they were stuck I guess due to the water, but even so the pipe and connections to the cold tap I cannot get to, the rest of the cupboard is in the way.
What I need to know first, I think, is whether I can do anything to fix this tap, or will it have to be replaced? Can I put anything around its base to stop water going through, or do I need to access the inaccessible bits to try tightening things. I'm worried about trying tightening anything because I don't know how much force I could put before causing a potential disaster.
Sorry this is long - please if anyone has any words of advice it would be much appreciated.
HF
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Ok HF, will try and help, but some things dont quite make sense.
You seem to have water leaking from two places? correct?
1/ seems to be a junction between two clear* sections of pipe correct? (* it has copper pipe on either side of the junction?)
2/ Cant make out where this water is coming from. What part of the tap is the water coming from? The washer only controls water out of the spout of the tap. Can you please be a little more clear and describe in painful detail where the water is coming from.
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Thanks RF, I'm not surprised it doesn't make a lot of sense - I'll try to explain better.
First, yes, there are two leaky places. The first, yes copper pipes each side, I'd call it a 't-junction', pipe comes up from beneath the floor and has a T-thing with pipes going off to left and right. I think the leak is where the junction meets the pipe on the left - it's covered with plumbers' goo, and I was wondering if I could just get some more of that to seal it?
The second thing is the worse thing. First, the tap streams water all the time when the water is turned on at the mains. I'm not sure if this has led to water going down through the place where the tap meets the sink, or if there's actually a leaking pipe/joint there - this is what I cannot access. I am trying to suss out exactly what's happening, whether it's the joint below the sink (a couple of pieces of pipe connected by pieces that screw them together.) If I could see this then I might be able to give a slightly better explanation.
Maybe I need to rip the rest of the cupboard to pieces? I just don't know. Thanks for trying to help, and I'm sorry I'm still not being very clear.
Please tell me if there's anything better I can say or look for.
HF
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Ok lets call them leak 1 and leak 2
Leak 1 is the T junction. Does this junction have nut type fixings on it or does it just appear like a slightly thicker pipe slipped over the normal size pipe. The nut type (called a compression fitting) can be take apart and fixed with a spanner and silicon sealant ( Fernox leak sealer ).
If its the latter type (the slip over type ) this is a plumber and blowlamp job
Leak 2 - the tap itsself. Still not sure where the water is coming from. Is it coming out of the tap spout or the tap handle? It sounds like its coming out of the tap handle part and leaking down where the tap body joins the sink. If its the tap body you could try nipping down (tightening) a thing called a gland nut, this is the small nut where the tape handle shaft goes through into the tap body.
Is it a mixer tap?
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Thanks for this, RF, I'm sorry I'm not able to explain very well. I'll try harder...
Ok, Leak 1. It's hard to see because of all the gooky stuff around it, but it doesn't seem to have any nut-type fixings. (I've been reading about compression and capillary joints today, think i know the difference). So this would seem bad news? If its just a slot-in pipe-job, I will need a plumber? Having said that, I'[ve had the water off all day but since turning it back on a while ago, this particular one hasn't leaked again yet. All I did was taped it up, but clearly this won't be a long-term solution. I take it I can't just put some more gooey stuff on to stem the leak?
Number two - is what's bothering me most. First of all, the tap itself is leaking, very heavily, from its spout. This is why I was changing the washer, but to no avail. The water is just pouring out. Having cleared and dried everything, it doesn't look right now that the water is leaking down through the part where the tap joins the sink though, which is what I thought initially. If I go as far as I can under the sink, and feel around, that part where the tap joins the pipes seems dry. Just below that, there is a nut, and it is there that I can feel water coming out. Similarly, just below that, there is another nut, which is also wet, but I guess this could be from the one above.
>>If its the tap body you could try nipping down (tightening) a thing called a gland nut, this is the small nut where the tape handle shaft goes through into the tap body.
The top nut under the sink feels larger than the lower one. Am I safe to try tightening these without causing further damage? There is very little leverage space, not even sure if I'll be able to get a tool in there anyway - but can I exert force on these? I'm not sure if either of these is the gland nut which you mention. I feel from the tap pipe, it comes to a (sorry about lack of tech-speak) screwy piece (widish pipe with screw-thread) then soon after comes the bigger nut, and just below is the smaller one. After which there is another small one, connecting to the rest of the pipe.
Again sorry for length and incoherence, please tell me if I can explain anything better.
Thanks so far!
HF
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HF, I have never seen a tap leaking heavily after you have changed the washer. When you say you changed the washer did you remove the body of the tap. Remove the existing washer which is of rubber about one inch in diameter and about quarter of an inch thick. If so is it possible that you didn?t see the old one as it had come off the jumper and you are screwing the new one down on to the old one.
If it is a tap which has a washer it is a very simple piece of equipment and turning the crutch on the top simply presses the rubber washer down on to the seat which is a circular raised piece of brass.
If the seat is worn or ridged it will allow water to leak through and down the spout. However this will only be a drip at the most. For you to remove the body of the tap is an achievement in itself. You would probably have had to remove the crutch on the top which is held on by a tiny brass screw and usually requires some judicious tapping upwards with an hammer then unscrew the shield off to expose the body. Then unscrew the body out making sure you restrain the tap from moving where it passes through the sink unit. (otherwise you are likely to cause a leak underneath!!!)
Would you confirm this is what you actually did? I wonder if you perhaps have one of the modern ceramic disc taps which are totally different and you have simply replaced the head washer.
Please explain exactly how you changed the washer before I go any further.
alvin
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RF, thanks for trying! I think I may well have all the problems you mention and possibly more, and I think also that I will have to admit defeat here and try and locate a friendly plumbing DIYer (certainly not a plumber based on the prices mentioned above in this thread!)
Dalgliesh - thanks for the links - my tap is the old-fashioned one, yes, but I don't think I have the courage to try doing too much to it, for fear of making things even worse.
Alvin - thank you for your reply. Yes, when changing the washer I did remove the body (if by that you mean the top part of the tap) and took off the old washer. I've done this before with no problems. I took off the handle (is this what you mean by the crutch?) then unscrewed the top part of the tap to access the washer. I did try to hold the tap firm whilst doing this, but I guess it *is* possible that I caused the leak underneath myself by not holding it tight enough. It's not a modern tap, it's very old. I then put a new washer on, it seems correctly and firmly fitted, and looks exactly like its partner on the hot tap which has no problems. I also a while ago replaced the thing which goes underneath the washer, it's like a washer too except that it is semi-spherical shaped (cannot remember its name) and again is identical to the one on the hot tap.
I think this is way too big a job for me, but many thanks for all the help.
HF
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Sorry HF, just about exhausted my ability to kinda guide you through this its not easy over Q&A text!
It sounds to me like you have four problems.
1/ Leaking T piece on the feed pipes
2/ Bad tap seat or even broken tap screw
3/ Leaking Sink/Tap washer
4/ Possibly leaking tap unions.
I would dump the taps and get a plumber or a plumbing friendly DIYer.
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BT are planning what looks like a nice little earner, especially from the unwary and elderly. From 1st August that handy 'press 3 to return the call' when you dial 1471 will cost you 6p every time - even if they don't answer!
I hope someone in the media will pick this up and give it plenty of publicity. Typical streak of meanness from BT imo.
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frostbite, and your source is?
Cockle
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The 'Update' BT magazine which came with my bill.
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I saw this as well. Not exactly heralded in bold type and given the same prominence as the more user-friendly features in the magazine. I wonder how many people bother to read this magazine - not many I guess. Hopefully when the new 'service' starts there will be a message saying that you have to pay for the ring-back.
A good way to chase even more people away to other telephone suppliers.
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Does any Backroomer have any evidence that Calgon tablets are beneficial? Do they really reduce breakdowns caused by limescale?
And I wonder what they do to the washing?
(I just have to use the word "tablets" ~ I can't bear that slovenly abbreviation "tabs".)
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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I stand to be corrected, but I thought that in hard-water areas the washing powders/dishwasher powders were formulated with more water softener within them?
Even if not the case, not sure if cost of softener added to each load will be any better/cheaper than an extra measure of washing powder added to each load, which will pretty much do the same thing.
I live in a v.hard water area and most problems with washing machines occour where limescale build up at the point of entry into the top of the machine - even before it comes into contact with the powder.
I buy cheap Zannussi recon machines from a local dealer and they last for ever!
Final tip - don't buy washer/dryers, and don't buy fancy electronic gizmo-laden machines. It's only washing after all!!
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I buy cheap Zannussi recon machines from a local dealer and they last for ever!
If they last forever, then why are you buying more than one? ;o)
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>>If they last forever, then why are you buying more than one? ;o)
Good question. One stayed in ex-g/friends house and one was given to sister when hers went bang. All still working :o)
>>Oo-er, we have a fancy electronic gizmo-laden machine! What have you got against them?
Nothing, just think they are over-complicated and more likely to go wrong IMHO. Once you take away the packaging and electronics it is still a humble washing-machine - drum, motor, pump. Sure the same is often said of cars on here ;o)
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Final tip - ..............and don't buy fancy electronic gizmo-laden machines.
Piglet,
Oo-er, we have a fancy electronic gizmo-laden machine! What have you got against them?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
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" any evidence that Calgon tablets are beneficial?"
They probably reduce limescale, but I don't use them. The immersion heater in the machine will get very hot, unless the heat is removed by the water. When it gets scaled up, the heat transfer rate to the water is reduced, the heater element gets too hot and it burns out.
Have you had many immersion heaters replaced? get a water softener if you're that worried, it will also reduce the use of detergent.
Also, minimize the use of the heater by ensuring the machine fills with as much hot water as necessary. It's cheaper if heated by gas or oil. Most UK machines are connected to the (high pressure) cold mains supply from the adjacent kitchen tap, and the (low pressure) hot water, supplied from a loft tank. The result is that the cold water enters much faster than the hot, the wash cycle starts with cold water and the immersion heater operates for longer. I believe you can get restrictors or flow regulators to restrict the cold water flow rate. My one's supplied via a pressure reducing valve.
I've found that detergent liquids produce a grey adhesive sludge in this area (London, hard water) which is very damaging to the machines.
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does anybody know of a web site (or any other way) of finding out what foreign telephone tones mean ?
I'm trying to ring austria, and getting no response, but i dont know if it is engaged or just ringing
tia
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www.tones.plus.com/sounds/foreign/foreign.htm
wouldnt you know it - everywhere in the world except austria. It should be the same as Germany, they had the same PTT.
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I'm trying to ring austria, and getting no response
I've been trying to ring Austria too, but I can't get a response either. Maybe she's out. Have you tried her cousin, Hungary?
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Has anyone been to Cuba for a beach holiday?
I'd be interested in your comments.
Also, if you have a Cuba stamp in your (UK) passport does it have any adverse effect when trying to enter the US?
Dreaming of my holidays.....
Rebecca
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I used to work there, no time to reply now, I'll do it later tonight.
But in the meantime where in Cuba ? And just at the beach ?
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I knew I'd get an answer on here!
We have two young kids (5 & 7) so a nice beach is a real plus and they aren't going to be interested in architecture, cigars and old cars. Mr R is Spanish so no language problems and we like to venture out from hotel complexes from time to time, so the option of a kids club is handy so we can find a bit of culture. Initial research comes up with Varadero as having a wide choice of hotels, but I'm not sure if it's a 'family' resort. If any beaches are known for jellyfish then they should be discounted immediately! Transfer time to the airport would ideally need to be less than an hour.
We would be travelling in August.
I am concerned about the passport stamp side of things as I travel to the US at least twice a year on business.
Thanks for any tips/recommendations etc
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I do not know whether Cuba stamps are an issue for entry into the USA, but the easy solution is to get a second passport. This used (10yrs ago)to be common practice for business travel for travel to Israel and Middle East, or travel to the Eastern bloc where visa applications could take several weeks and you needed to be able to travel while visa was in preparation. The more junior passport office staff would tell you it was not possible (or legal) to have 2 passports but it was and I did.
Enjoy your holiday.
pmh (was peter)
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Rebecca,
I know several people who have been to Cuba, mainly because it was a cheaper package than other parts of the Caribbean, and they were all a little disappointed. Not dreadful but not what they expected.
My daughter and partner went there 2 years ago and have visited the USA since on the Visa Waiver Scheme and had no problems. Although as you visit USA on business you will have to apply for a Visa and you can check with the Embassy, but I am pretty certain it will not be a problem - unless you were a guest in Guantanamo Bay.
C
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I understood the visa waiver scheme is dead for UK citizens, as of about three months ago due to the extended timescales of providing UK biometric passports.
If you dont have a visa you can expect questions about the Cuban stamp (as the US considers CUBA as a sponsor of state terrorism) when applying for one, or if you have one then Questions will be asked at imigration as you enter.
I notice you says Mr R is Spanish? does that mean you have a Hispanic sounding name? That may make the questions more pointed,,
However honest answers will probably ensure entry
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I understood the visa waiver scheme is dead for UK citizens, as of about three months ago due to the extended timescales of providing UK biometric passports.
RF,
The Visa Waiver Scheme still applies with no changes at all. I went last month and go again next week.
Machine readable passports are required - but virtually every UK passport complies.
What has changed is the attitude of USA Imigration. If you are going as a tourist with a return ticket and can convince them you intend to return to UK you have no problems - scores of thousands go every month.
Should you be going on any form of business you must have a Visa. Also if you have EVER been arrested(and they find out) and try to enter without a visa you will be detained and put on the next available plane home. Convictions are never spent.
The position on fingerprinting/iris recognition and new style passports with this information, is still in a state of flux.
As I said earlier my daughter and partner entered USA with Cuba stamps without a problem.
C
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Cardew, are they fingerprinting now?
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I was there (US) a fortnight ago and UK passport holders were not fingerprinted or photographed.
Incidentally I have always travelled for business (conferences) on the Visa Waiver scheme with no problems at all. Oh apart from surly in-yer-face attitiude from the immigration officers which is par for the course...except this time they couldn't have been more charming (Washington Dulles) so maybe they have changed their approach?
Our surname is very Hispanic indeed - I hadn't thought of it raising eyebrows in the US in relation to a Cuba visit, but you could have a point.
Other random Cuba 'fact' picked up from internet...they always stamp page 16 of your passport (well US visitors anyway)
Thanks for your replies.
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Still busy, a quick and not very thorough reply;
Very pleasant place for sunny relaxing beach holiday, lovely people, great atmosphere. Most package holidays are however in fairly isolated hotels away from the real Cuba which is fascinating and should not be missed. It should be investigated with the usual care of a western tourist in a (very) poor foreign country although having Spanish is a help - don't be flashy, don't carry all the money/passports in one place etc. etc..
Havana has lots of history and is pretty lively though watch for pickpockets; at the other end of the island, the city of Holguin is amazing for being almost entirely car-free; everyone gets about on bicycles or horses.
If you dress as locals and can integrate a bit rather than go round as a total tourist then you can get a fascinating insight on a very different lifestyle.
Re: Passport Stamp & USA
Should be no problems at all, many Americans visit although they all take care to travel via Nassau since they're not allowed to fly direct. I never had a problem. If in doubt check on the US embassy website in case its changed in the last year or so.
No jellyfish anywhere that I'm aware of. Varadero is the top notch resort on Cuba, it's about an hour and a half from Havana, 100 miles away, and has an (tourist flights) international airport at the resort as well. Many of the hotels are ideal for families, some more for singles, depends on the specific hotel.
re: travelling in August
Can be very, very hot and humid then; I'd prefer to go in May/June or September, but at least on the coast there'll be some fresh air.
M.
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