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Computer Related Questions. Volume 6 - Dynamic Dave

******** Thread now full, see volume 7 ********

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20891


In this thread you may ask any computer related question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.

Usual rules apply,

No motoring related discussion,
No politics,
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )

Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.

There is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 6. Previous Volumes will not be deleted.

A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=20892

CDRs - NitroBurner
I recently bought 100 for £20.

Is it worth paying extra for branded CDRs or are the cheap ones just as good?
CDRs - Welliesorter
Opinions on this are divided. I've read a few articles saying that CDs of all kinds aren't expected to last indefinitely so it might be worth buying decent quality ones. I've been given a few cheapo ones and the surface scratched off them.

I've usually bought Memorex and had no problems. Branded discs are so cheap that I don't bother with unbranded ones. The last batch I bought (called eProformance) cost me £5.99 for 25 from 7dayshop.com. I've used about half and they've all been fine.

CDRs have only been a mass market item for three or four years so it's anyone's guess as to how long they'll really last.
CDRs - smokie
SDom years ago my company sold an Optical Media solution (very similar to CDs) to an insurance company and the claim was that, handled & stored correctly, optical media would last at least 100 years. Mind you, those discs were many times the cost of blank CDs, but the technology was in it's infancy then, so how they could make that claim I don't know.

Currently I am working on a large project which involves regular use (and some abuse, by engineers) or writable CDs. There is no doubt that the cheaper ones do not last very long, if not looked after. We are having CDs copied commercially for the engineers to use, and since going for a better quality blank they are lasting longer, but still have a finite life. This is entirely due to handling, I believe.

My personal experience is that from a 100 pack I will always end up with a few coasters, although my CD burning kit is now very old. The problems I generally get are around the writer thinking that the CD isn't writable at all, rather than failures during writing, which is what I used to suffer. But these are so cheap, I just put them in the bin and start again. I have also had a handful of problems where my car player won't read them properly,. On balance, the cheap ones are fine (but look after them properly).
CDRs - Kuang
Not a great deal of difference generally. I can recommend MaxMedia and Infini blanks at about £20/100 (I forget the brands they're badge engineered from, but they're both quite well known). Probably best to steer clear of uncoated ones though, as you can quite easily scrape off the silver on many, leaving a nice hole in your disc..
Start up problems. - stealerswheel
Am currently in possession of quite an old computer (4 years old) and it has recently started playing up. As long as it isn\'t switched off at the main it\'s OK and will start up normally, but as soon as it is plugged out then I have to reset the BIOS settings every time I switch on. What I\'d like to know is whether this is a battery problem and if it is, whether it is worthwhile changing it or whether I should just opt for a new motherboard? I should add that since I just use the computer for surfing, I have little need to upgrade it.
Start up problems. - Big John
Change the battery and check that the jumper used to reset the BIOS(depending on model) is in the correct position.
Start up problems. - Baskerville
It\'s unusual for a battery to die so quickly (I have, anmong others, a seven year-old machine here, used for word processing/surfing and the battery is fine), but it does sound like the battery. It\'s up to you but it\'s say £5 for the new battery (never bought one so don\'t know for sure) versus £120 for the motherboard plus whatever it costs to make the peripherals work with it. The battery should be quite obvious--usually like a big watch battery.
Start up problems. - stealerswheel
Thanks John/Chris. I\'ll have a go at changing the battery then...ah to venture into the bowels of the unknown! I hope this is an easy job or knowing me I\'ll end up binning the whole computer!
Start up problems. - Mystic
Should not be that difficult.
Just ground yourself before you start and you pretty much can't go wrong.
Start up problems. - Welliesorter
www.7dayshop.com sells cheap button batteries as well as CDRs. I've no complaints with them except the deleveries are a slower than with some e-tailers.
Start up problems. - Dwight Van Driver
This battery thingy.

Daughter has just returned an Apricot PC that I bought 6 - 7 years ago and passed on to her. Still working. There is no market for such an old machine so have put it into store cupboard.

Should I give it storage treatment like taking a car off the road. If so what should I do so that should I require it it will still work?

DVD
Start up problems. - Mystic
Just protect it from dust and envirormental extremes (cold, etc.) and you should be fine.

Can't think of anything else that would be required...

J.
Start up problems. - Mystic
Although I guess if you wanted to store it for a prolonged period taking out the CMOS battery would be a good idea to remove the risk of it leaking.
Start up problems. - Dynamic Dave
Although I guess if you wanted to store it for a
prolonged period taking out the CMOS battery would be a
good idea to remove the risk of it leaking.


The battery will more than likely be a lithium battery, and I've yet to see any button cell leak, let alone a lithium one.
Start up problems. - Mystic
Ok guess I was being over cautious....
Start up problems. - pdc {P}
There is no market for such an old machine so have
put it into store cupboard.


DVD, it's a crime to put a working PC into storage. No matter how old and decrepid you may think it is, there will be some voluntary organisation out there that could make use of it. Some areas even have a coordinated collection and distribution scheme.

If anyone in or around the Greater Manchester area ever has any PC kit going spare, 184 Manchester South Air Training Corps would love to take it off your hands :-)
Start up problems. - Mike H
There is a web site called, I think, donateapc.org.uk which puts people like yourself (with a PC that is still servicable but not needed) in touch with charities who need them.
Start up problems. - Phil I
Some motherboards have the battery soldered into the circuit which can be a problem unless you have some specialist soldering equipment to handle the reconnection. Do not purchase battery from Computer shops. Just get replacement from anywhere they are on sale cheap. I have done two of these recently . Batteries were £1.25 ea. As long as it is exact type will do job no probs.
Start up problems. - stealerswheel
Replaced the battery and all seems to be working fine again. Makes you wonder where they get the prices for computer repairs. Was quoted £40 over the phone to have it done if I took it to this guy's workshop and £75 if he came to me. The cost of the battery was £1.99 and took all of five to ten minutes to replace.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - frostbite
A friend is dumping BT after a horrendous year of their broadband. I have ruled out Tiscali & AOL as replacement but will be interested to hear of good experiences with other ISPs.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Dynamic Dave
Frostbite,

I've recently signed up with Pipex. Was with Freeserve since the start of the free ISP, but Pipex broadband is cheaper than FS Broadband, which is why i defected. Currently £23.44 a month, but you have to pay a one off set up fee of £17.57, whereas with FS it's free.

So far I've had no probs with Pipex, and I can still use my previous FS email addresses.

www.solo.pipex.net

Your favourite broadband ISP? - Robbie
A friend is dumping BT after a horrendous year of their
broadband. I have ruled out Tiscali & AOL as replacement
but will be interested to hear of good experiences with other
ISPs.


If you have Telewest in your area then go for Blueyonder broadband. I've been with them for quite a few years now and upgraded to their broadband about two years ago. No problems, and good service has been my experience.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Baskerville
Demon Internet

£25 a month, inc VAT, with no limits on downloads. pop3 and webmail, plus a nifty service that offers fax-to-email. They give you a fax number and it can be used from any normal fax machine--the fax arrives as an email attachment. Free for the first year, then a one-off payment of £20.

Always a quick response to e-mailed tech questions and no service breaks in the last eight months that I know of. They've been great.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - helicopter
I am on dial up at home and was considering tiscali broadband only because we need to have the phone line available, speed and cost is not a major problem and the freeserve dial up at home is I find not that much slower than the BT broadband at work. .

I wonder why you guys appear to be ruling tiscali out?

Any ideas on the following problem. I have a 5 amp fuse in the plug of my computer and when starting up it is blowing. I'm not sure whether it is a computer or an electrical problem.

I did have it on a double plug , one plug of which has an extension lead with five sockets for all the bits including monitor , printer , etc and the only fuse that blows is the one to the PC. I have now taken the PC plug to the second plug of the double socket but it makes no difference so the machine is left running 24/7 at the moment.

When I moved in I had a second double socket installed in the same room ( currently running a small television )which the electrician took the power from the back of the existing double socket.

He has to come back to do further work so I can get it sorted if its electrical or do you think its the computer?
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Kuang
It's most likely something to do with the computer, or with the lead itself. The electrical current that blows the fuse will only flow when the PC is on and only up to the level the PC is drawing, so it's not as if the mains socket is pushing too much power into the PC - quite the opposite. If there's a short circuit in the lead, that could also cause it - has it been nibbled by family pets or kinked recently? :)

Best bet will be to try another kettle lead and see if that works -you could also try the computer in another plug socket just to satisfy yourself that that's where the problem lies.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Mark (RLBS)
I'd go with Kuang. Get the kettle lead changed asap and see if that makes a difference.

If that doesn't make a difference, take the computer to another socket, pref. in a different room and see if the same still happens. I can't see that it will, but it'll make you feel better.

Have you added anything extra to the PC itself ? Is the screen driven by its own power supply or by the PC ? If its a separate lead, swap them over and see what happens.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - helicopter
Thanks Kuang for the suggestions - There does seem to be a surge from the PC on starting up which is when the fuse goes . AnywayI will try another lead at the weekend as it is possible that the existing one has been kinked behind the cupboard I built recently to conceal all the computer bits.

I may have possibly compressed or kinked the lead between cupboard and wall - no family pets to blame.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Chris - nearly an ex-pat...
Blimey! That's a lot of amps! I actually did some tests on my own PC setup with an accurate ammeter. I'm running an overclocked P4 running at 3.5ghz, + 2x Hard disks and a large 17" CRT display, and with that lot running I get a reading of just 0.88 amps, or 212watts. Technically, I could get away with a one-amp fuse, and still run everything okay. Actually, I've got a 3 amp fuse installed, and even with a scanner and printer turned on there's no probs.

Your probs could be related to voltage "spikes", but I would have thought it would have affected other fuses. Dunno ..

Your favourite broadband ISP? - Altea Ego
"0.88 amps, or 212watts"

Not at power up time you dont. It spikes higher than this when turned on.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - smokie
Re the plug blowing - on some older computers, power for the monitor was taken from the base unit. If that's your setup, try a separate lead fron plug to monitor - this will reduce power on spike
Your favourite broadband ISP? - helicopter
Well the replacement lead seems to have cured the fuse blowing problem . I've fired her up four times on the trot without a problem so many thanks for the help and advice.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - keo-the-dog
A friend is dumping BT after a horrendous year of their
broadband. I have ruled out Tiscali & AOL as replacement
but will be interested to hear of good experiences with other
ISPs.

why was it horrendous only ask as it may match the problems i had which were solved with a new modem from bt i now have the latest venturer modem about the size of 20 international style cigarrettes with three teardrop shaped status lights on top its a silver grey coloured unit the older black larger venturer modem had many problems . tell bt (dont ask tell ) he needs the new modem as the old modem is faulty , they gave me one without having to sign up again and i am still with them because of the improvement.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - frostbite
Thanks for the replies so far - confirms my impression that Pipex and Demon might be the ones to suggest.

KTD - basically, the connection dropped evry few minutes or even seconds! BT said they had tested the line several times, whatever that means. The modem is the older black one, so would be interested to hear what the problems were.

Re Tiscali - I have read so many adverse comments on ALL aspects of their bb 'service', many on their own forums, that I would not consider them at half the price.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Phil I
Can confirm Robbie' remarks re Telewest . Have used their dial up Surf Unlimited for couple of years now. Is unbeatable 24/7 connection for (just gone up by £1 this month) to £13.99 inc.vat.During this time have had only two occasions when have had problems getting connection and disconnects are v.rare indeed. I do not think any of the other ISPs can come near them for reliability.
Now has V92 protocol in action which gives you the ability to take voice calls whilst surfing without breaking connection. This needs Caller i.d. + Call Waiting enabled (these are £1pm each) Someone calls you while you are connected. you get popup window tells you who is calling . you have choice to accept call or decline and if you accept you get 4mins.conversation before the web connection drops out.If you finish the voice call inside the time frame you just go back to the web without losing the connection. Solves problem of people not being able to get through to you at half cost of cheapo 150 k broadband and you get full 56k on download speeds TW also do 1mbps for £35 and 2mbpsd for £55.
No connection with TW Just satisfied customer.

Happy Surfing Phil I
Your favourite broadband ISP? - frostbite
Regrettably, there are no cable options in the area I'm looking at.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Martin Wall
Before your friend goes through the hassle of switching Broadband ISP it sounds as though his problem is a hardware/setup issue and not specific to his ISP - hence if he doesn't resolve these issues he'll have the same problem whoever he is with.

- Who supplied his modem? If BT then they should support it otherwise not

- The line test performed by BT means that as far as they are concerned his line is fine, thus this sounds like a modem/setup issue as I said

- Which BT offering does he have 'BTBroadband' or 'BT Yahoo Broadband' (formerly BT Openworld Broadband)?

Your favourite broadband ISP? - smokie
I'm with Martin, there is an immediate assumption that a faulty connection must be the ISPs fault when quite often it is bad config of the computer (or even user error!)
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Baskerville
Have you tried using BT's website for troubleshooting? Useless.

They have been having problems with mail authentication the last couple of days. The only way you can find that out is by calling a call centre in India who give you an 0800 number with a recorded message. Absolutely ridiculous. Why not put a message on the website, for goodness sake?
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Cardew
I have been with BT Broadband since it started and have had no problems at all.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Imagos
I have been with BT Broadband since it started and have
had no problems at all.


me too i just dont understand the bill, i seem to be charged $68 every quarter is that not plus VAT? connection wise BT's fine i just need someone to explain the complacated bills? 4 pages of no sense...
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Mark (RLBS)
I have around 200 people using BTOpenWorld - very rarely do we have an issue, and its normaly not BTOW's fault when we do.

Their admin is still awful though.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Welliesorter
The only way you can find that out is
by calling a call centre in India who give you an
0800 number with a recorded message. Absolutely ridiculous.


The idea is you call the 0800 number before the call centre. The recorded message is to tell you if there are known problems to save you the bother of ringing the call centre.
Why not put
a message on the website, for goodness sake?


You mean like the one at tinyurl.com/25er2 last updated at 6.02 this evening? It does mention that very problem!

Your favourite broadband ISP? - Baskerville
As I've said I'm not with BT, but a neighbour is. He's been struggling with this problem for several days now and couldn't find anything on the site to say what the problem is. Try finding that page from the home page when you're unfamiliar with the site. You have to go through the greyed-out "help" link at the bottom of the page, which looks like something to do with the conditions of service. The page you want is actually two pages away from the home page. Compare that with the Demon.net page where the network status link is right there on the menu, or Nildram, where the "support area" is right there and clearly labeled on the front page.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - carl_a
I can\'t understand why anyone goes with Freeserve or BT, AOL is by far the worst. Nildram,Eclipse or Pipex provide a much better service at a cheaper rate.

Also don\'t be surprised if you get a poor connection with \"Free/Provided\" USB ADSL modems as they use your computers processing power and are slower than a proper ADSL router.

If you want information about ADSL ISP\'s go to www.adslguide.org.uk
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Baskerville
Quite carl_a. Not to mention with a router (running some version of Linux no doubt), you won't get a virus as soon as you install the OS.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - pdc {P}
Frostbite, no matter which ISP your friend chooses, the line is still the same, and is provided by BT wholesale. So if it's a problem with the line, it will still be there when your friend switches ISP.

I've had broadband for almost 4 years now. Started of with BTOpenwoe and switched to Plus.net last year. Was paying £29.99 to BT, and pay £18.99 to Plus for the same service, with better support.

Have to say, in the 3 years I had Openwoe, I was only without a connection twice, which isn't bad performance at all.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Altea Ego
Quite carl_a. Not to mention with a router (running some version
of Linux no doubt), you won't get a virus as soon
as you install the OS.


Only if you buy and install one that has a firewall. Plus a good one (Netgear, SMC) are a doddle to set up.
Your favourite broadband ISP? - Baskerville
Yes, should have mentioned that, though most domestic ADSL routers have firewalls built-in. They are indeed a doddle to set up.

Note to self: never post when drunk.
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Rita
Problem 1 - Lost Toolbar

I am floundering with Excel at the moment and have been using the ‘merge’ button on the Toolbar rather a lot. I don’t know what the other buttons were for. The Toolbar has now disappeared and has been missing for 2 days. Short of calling Old Bill I thought that I would try the Cavalry, in other words you lot in the hope that you can conduct a search party.

As has been previously mentioned I am but a simple maid and my ‘puter is nothing if not problematical so any replies will have to be as simple as ABC because even if I understood instructions the machine definitely won’t.

By the way, thanks for your swift responses to my previous post on another matter. I couldn’t respond at the time, as I had to take to my sick bed for a week or so. Don’t ask.

Problem 2 – Full C Drive and empty D Drive.

I have always had problems getting on the to some Web sites including this one due to some pesky file called, from memory, Kernell 32.DLL. A neighbour as been good enough to run his Norton Systems thingy on the machine and that seems to have solved the problem.

A lot of extraneous programs were also cleared off the system. It would now seem that Drive C is full and Drive D is empty. Does this mean that I will have to use Drive D and if so, how do I do that? I don’t really know if that is a reasonable question or not, but I rest content that you will recognize that ignorance is not always equivalent to stupidity.

Problem 3 – Recycle Bin

Today I found that all the stuff deleted in connection with Problem 2 is in the Recycle Bin. I have tediously counted KBs up to 10,500 but have given up, as there are a zillion files still to go.

I hesitate to delete everything permanently just in case I commit the computer equivalent of Hari Kari. The following are in the ‘Type’ column (files) in the bin – in alphabetical order –

Application; Application Extension
Configuration Setting; CRD
DAT; DXR
Font; Help; ICON; LLD; QTC
SAV; SBK
Text Document
WMF; Write

Which files can I safely and confidently delete?

MANY, MANIES, RITA
Toolbar, C D drives, File deletion - Mark (RLBS)
Problem 1

Open Excel, go to View, Go to Toolbars, select the ones you want - (probably standard and formatting)

Problem 2


Save your files in a different place.

e.g. in MS Word;

open word, goto tools, go to options, go to file locations, go to modify, change the drive letter from C: to D:

Problem 3

Either just empty the recycle bin (which is probably safe) or restore all the files to your D drive and keep a copy of them there & then empty the recycle bin.

Don\'t forget that because they are in your recycle bin your programs already cannot find them. So if anything is not broken now, then it probably won\'t be. If you\'re not getting any error messages and you\'ve not lost any documents you care about, then personally I\'d just trash the lot.


Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - RichardW
Rita,

1. Put the mouse pointer anywhere over any toolbars that remain, or the menus at the top of the screen. Click the right button and a small box should open with a list of toolbars on it (left) click on Formatting and your lost toolbar should make a reappearance.

3. Deal with this first as it's easier... If it's in the recycle bin it's gone anyway as far as the computer is concerned - it's just there to help stop you losing files you don't want to lose. So, assuming you haven't deleted anything you might want (word, excel files), there should be no problem with clicking on 'Empty recycle bin'.

2. Having done the above this should free up some space on your drive. Next go into internet explorer, click on the Tools menu and then Internet Options. Click on the 'delete files' options - this will purge all the rubbish that has accumulated from surfing the web. You MAY lose a password or 2 for various sites by doing this but you can re-enter them easy enough. Some common sites might take a bit longer to download the first time you visit them as all the graphics will have to re-load.

Hopefully these will free up a lot of space to allow you to use C: again. I assume if you have a D: drive you have 2 hard drives, or a drive partition? If it's partioned it might be set up with no space on C: so you'll have to use D:


--
RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Baskerville
Rita

Can't help with problem one as I don't use excel, never have, and probably never will, thank goodness.
Problem 2 – Full C Drive and empty D Drive.


C: drive is the hard-disk inside the computer. D: drive is usually your cd-rom drive. D: will usually be empty, unless you put a full cd in it. C: however should not be full. I fixed someone's computer a while back where something like this had happened. It was partly a problem caused by some nasty that was replicating itself, and partly because his kids had made a large "home movie" of their shoes and the ceiling. Do you have a digital camera and/or download a lot of movies/images/music? (Filesharing systems like Kazaa encourage this and before you know it your hard-disk is full). If so, delete the ones you don't want. You should also "defragment" the drive--somewhere in "system tools" if I remember right.

You don't say what operating system you are using, ot how old the computer is. If you have a new operating system (WinXP) and an old computer (say one that was new in 1998) you will find that the hard disk is too small. Get a new one fitted.
Problem 3 – Recycle Bin


I would trust Norton and ditch them all--it might help with problem 2. Since they are already in the recycle bin your computer is already working without them. It can't make it any worse, right? Having said that, if you have WinME or XP, there is a thing called System Restore. Use that to set up a restore point, then ditch. Save all your precious and valuable data files before you do anything.

Good luck.
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - pdc {P}
Some pesky thing called kernel32.dll ?

Rita, the kernel is at the heart of an operating system. without this file there would be no windows, so whatever you do, don't go deleting it or removing it from memory.

As for the D drive usually being the CD-ROM, well that's a dangerous statement to make as it all depends on a) the number of physical hard drives in the machine, b) the way that they are partitioned and c) whether they have been assigned letters automagically or by the user.
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Baskerville
I was working on the assumption that Rita is a "simple maid" and probably doesn't have a multi-partitioned hard drive, let alone two (actually two drives is more likely). If she does, then she knows someone who is more use to her than we can be. On the Windows installations on both of my current multi-boot machines the default drive letter for CDROM is D: (the other partitions are non-FAT/FAT32/NTFS partitions, so Windows doesn't know they are there). I assumed that was normal. Maybe I was wrong.
Toolbar, C D drives, File deletion - Mark (RLBS)
The chances are that D; is a separate partition. Probably the partition to which a lot of the programs were installed; Especially given that Rita stated that programs had been deleted resulting in a full C: - kind of indicating that they didn\'t come from there in the first place.

Given that it has also filled the c: drive so easily, I suspect that a system partition was created with the original intention that user files should be contained within d:

However, it doesn\'t make much difference whatever since if Rita can save files to d: all well and good, and emptying the recycle bin will clear down c:.

By the way Rita, you may well now need to defragment the c: drive. (after you\'ve emptied the Recycle Bin)

From your desktop - double click on the \"My Computer\" icon, right click on C: and select properties, click on the \"tools\" tab and then select \"Defragment now\".

And after all of that either create a system check point or [better] have a back up done.



Toolbar, C D drives, File deletion - frostbite
Seems to me to be essential to get rid of as much crud as possible if C: is truly full or even approaching that state because windoze will be most unhappy and unstable if it doesn't have sufficient space for the swap file.

Regardless of what type drive D: is.
Toolbar, C D drives, File deletion - Chris - nearly an ex-pat...
Rita, regarding emptying your recycle bin. If you\'ve had Norton (utils or anti-vir) installed, you probably now also have \"norton protected recycle bin\". If you right-click on the bin and disable all the special Norton features, you can then simply empty the bin and clear out everything with one mouse click. If you leave the \"norton protected\" options still checked, then the bin seems to hang on to deleted stuff for months and the cache just gets bigger and bigger. I lost 2 gigs of HD space this way.

You don\'t really need to use drive d: if your pc is working okay with the just the C: partition having data.
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Dalglish
rita

problem 2;
rather than guess your pc hardware spec, may i suggest a good site for simple maids to look at
www.telegraph.co.uk/connected/main.jhtml
go to "bootcamp" and start with
Bootcamp : Archive
Bootcamp 313: spring clean and upgrade, part four
Bootcamp 313: spring clean and upgrade, part three
Bootcamp 313: spring clean and upgrade, part two
Bootcamp 313: spring clean and upgrade, part one

then at your leisure go thru all other bootcamps.


problem 3;
to satisfy yourself what file-type means look at

"Almost Every file format in the world! " at
www.ace.net.nz/tech/TechFileFormat.html


Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Rita

Problem 1 - Having followed instructions I now have my Toolbar back.

Problem 3 – After reading responses and, being the simple soul that I am, not following all the arguments regarding partitions or otherwise of the Drive, I decided that this was a ‘burp or bust’ (my mother would have put it more crudely) situation and have deleted everything in the recycle bin – some 365 items.

Problem 2 – I think I have misled all you fine gentlemen re the C Drive. The C Drive was already virtually full pre deletion of various programmes. I was always puzzled by this, as there can’t be more than 200 document pages all told on this computer.

I now feel inclined inclined to go for broke and follow RichardW’s suggestion re ‘deleting files’

Prior to doing this, I would just like the merest of assurances that I would not be substituting one problem for another.

I have just looked at the Norton Systems graph and it shows that on Drive C there is free 124.8mb; the Optimisation bar is all black. Drive D has 1018mb (up from 996.7mb) as I made a note of the reading; the Optimisation bar read 100% on a black background.

As ever I am astonished at the immediacy of responses. Long may it continue.

Look forward to hearing from you on the matter of deleting files.

Rita
Toolbar, C+D drives, File deletion - Mark (RLBS)
Rita,

Which operating system are you running ? Windows 98, 2000, NT, XP or somethign else ?

Also, you say that C: has 124mb free; How much has it got used and how old is the computer ?

ditto d:
NTL (Wireless) Broadband - John R @ Work {P}
Does anyone have NTL Broadband and their (NTLs) wireless router etc. ?

1/ Was it an easy installation?
2/ What's the kit like?
3/ What is your general view of their service?

As you can probably tell, I'm getting this fitted soon and wondered if there would be any hurdles...

I have had NTL TV & Telephone for years (no problems, touch wood) and used them as my dial up ISP for ages as well.
The PC is an e-machine 790 from PC World and has XP home as the OS.

Any views will be greatfully received.

John R
NTL (Wireless) Broadband - Van Driving Man
John R,

Have had their BBand service for a couple of years now, tho via cable modem, rather than router.
1/ Was it an easy installation?

My installation required a bit of head-scratching, a fair bit of swearing, several PC reboots, and one call to their installation support line.
2/ What's the kit like?

I can't comment on their wireless router kit; have had zero problems with the modem.
3/ What is your general view of their service?

Generally good, although their email servers have been a bit flakey lately, but this is being addressed (allegedly ;) ). I am more than happy with the service I have had from them, although I understand it depends to some degree which area of the country you live in, and hence the standard of your local engineers.

There is a pretty lively discussion of all things NTL at: www.nthellworld.co.uk/
Note: when you first visit the forums there it seems as if ntl can do nothing right - not the case, but those who are happy do not post to the forums!
NTL (Wireless) Broadband - John R @ Work {P}
Thanks VDM,
I have seen the NTHELL site, I have never input onto it as I have not had a problem with NTL (nee Cable & Wireless) in 4 or 5 years... (except for one short phone outage when a car crashed into the junction box! It was fixed in les than 12 hours.)

Thats the problem with laminate flooring... you can't pull up the edge to tuck wires under.


John R
NTL (Wireless) Broadband - Pezzer
John, I have ntl bb, which I have to say is the only reason I stay with NTL as I find the 150k service pretty good value and I think I regularly get much better than 150k on downloads. I dont use the NTL wireless router but have got the Belkin 54g one and matching network card from DABS.com as I know this supports my company's VPN (and it was cheaper). Install was pretty simple and it did what it said on the box IE it was up and running pdq.
However where I have struggled is with the 128 bit encryption settings which caused a few problems, but Belkins (free) helpdesk were very helpful although a bit time consuming.

Once you get it working its brilliant kids can play, I can work, no phaffing around in the back of the telly, upsetting SWMBO by powering down/up in the middle of the soaps etc.
NTL (Wireless) Broadband - Welliesorter
I've been using an NTL cable modem for slightly more than three years. ADSL wasn't an option in my area at the time. Installation was just a matter of plugging the modem into a cable TV point and connecting the Ethernet card on the PC to the modem. I don't need a router as I only have one PC. USB would be a bit more fiddly to set up (you need to install drivers) and slower (it takes up system resources although this may not be too much of an issue on a modern PC).

It's breathtakingly simple to set up as you need no special software at all. If you're using Windows you just have to change a couple of settings to prevent it trying to use a dial-up connection. Once you've done this the computer just thinks it's connected to a local area network. I've used Windows 98, Me, XP and more versions of Linux than I can think of, most recently Knoppix 3.3 and Mandrake 10.0. All are connected to the net as soon as you boot them.

Overall it's been pretty reliable and any outages have been resolved within a day or so. The best download speeds I get on the 600k service are roughly 70kb per second.

NTL (Wireless) Broadband - Baskerville
>>more versions of Linux than I can think
of, most recently Knoppix 3.3 and Mandrake 10.0


How are you finding Mandrake 10? I did an upgrade to 9.2 at the weekend, expecting problems but so far no problem. It seems very responsive. One reboot to install the whole thing was very impressive.
Mandrake 10.0 - Welliesorter
How are you finding Mandrake 10?


Not drastically different from 9.2 although I find applications seem to launch more quickly (under KDE). It's just good to have the latest versions of everything, especially Mozilla. I haven't been brave enough to try installing Nvidia display drivers. I tend to take the view that it's not worth the hassle just to play Tux Racer. I believe the commercial versions of Mandrake come with the drivers pre-installed.

Incidentally, you can now download the latest versions of Mozilla Firefox and Thunderbird from Mandrake Cooker. Which is nice. (For the uninitiated, this means that you can install them using Mandrake's built in software management program.)

Have a look at the alt.os.linux.mandrake newsgroup for reactions to 10.0. I notice a common problem reported is that some people can't seem to boot from the first installation CD. The work round is to boot from CD2 and put CD1 in afterwards. I didn't have this problem.

Have you noticed that Mandrake have changed their policy on the downloadable version in the light of the LG CD drive debacle? They now admit that the 'Community edition' may have a few rough edges which will be removed for the commercial versions. It may be sensible not to risk the very latest version if it's your main OS.

(Telling ChrisR about Linux is telling my granny how to suck eggs but for anyone for whom this is all a foreign language, have a look at www.mandrakelinux.com . There is an alternative to Windows and it gets better all the time.)
Mandrake 10.0 - Altea Ego
For those of you that want to play with Linux, there is a self booting CDROM based version of Knoppix. No fiddle about with partions or boot managers. Just stick the CD in your drive (as long its set to bootable and above the hard drive in the BIOS) and boot the machine - lo and behold LINUX. When done just take it out and reboot Windoze in the normal way.
Mandrake 10.0 - Baskerville
Mandrake do one of those as well, called Mandrake Move.
Mandrake 10.0 - Welliesorter
Knoppix is a wonderful invention and anyone who hasn't seen it will be amazed at how well it works and how much software it contains.

Even though it's on a CD, you can save your settings. In particular you may want to change time zone and language settings from US English. You can do this using a floppy disk or a file on your hard drive. If you take the latter option, just type 'knoppix myconfig=scan' at the first prompt and it'll load your settings when it boots.

Mandrake now has a bootable CD version of Linux called MandrakeMove. It looks a bit smoother than Knoppix but doesn't seem to have as many programs included. There's a commercial (you have to pay for it) version that works with USB pen drives so you can effectively carry your computer around in your pocket in the form of a CD and USB drive.

Of course for many the beauty of these distributions is that you can use them without touching your hard drive.
Knoppix etc. - Welliesorter
Another thought about Knoppix and similar distributions. Even if you have not the slightest interest in using Linux as your main operating system it's a good idea to have one of these CDs stashed away in a drawer. That way, if you ever destroy your hard drive, you can still have a working computer within a couple of minutes.
Mandrake 10.0 - Baskerville
I'm not using 10 on my main work machine--yet--but when I've tested it, asked a few more people about it, and find the time I probably will. It does seem just that bit sharper than 9.2, though in fact I work mostly on Mepis at the moment and have done for a few months. Thanks for the tip about Firefox and Cooker. Unfortunately the one problem I have with the installation is that it won't let me enter new sources into URPMI. I suspect it's because I did an upgrade and broke something, so I'll need to do a clean install some time I think--I tend not to use the package manager other than for updates, which works ok, so I can live with it for a while. In fact I'm so impressed with 10 I'm even considering _paying_ for it. 'scuse me while I take a lie down.
Public information post - cheap cases - Kuang
I went out to fix a self-built computer last night that refused to power up. After a lot of umm-ing and ahh-ing and getting the board to power on by shorting the contacts with a screwdriver, I popped the front panel with the intention of testing the switches. I traced the wires back and realised that the connectors from the power and reset buttons to the motherboard are marked incorrectly with each other's labels. After a bit of a nose around it seems that quite a few people have been caught out by the same thing. It didn't help that the Dragon 350W PSU was actually blown on arrival, but fortunately I'd taken a spare along.

The case is a Novatech Silver Chicago. They're actually decent cases, if a bit flimsy, but you do get an extra case fan in the middle of a clear side panel which is great for cooling high powered graphics cards.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - malteser
Is it just me, here in Spain, who is experiencing diabolically slow internet connection speeds?
Over the last 10 to 12 days I have been driven to distraction by this. I find that generally up to around 14:00 hrs (local) speeds are fine and pages load quickly. (I have a 256 kbs ADSL line, and my PC is "tweaked" for optimum performance by Tweak XP Pro). During the afternoon and evening I continually get the "page cannot be displayed/XYZ.com cannot be found" etc. etc. It has just taken me five minutes to progress to this posting page from the time I clicked honestjohn co uk in my bookmarks folder. As for eBay - forget it!
I know that when the USA wakes up that things slow down, but never before to this extent.
Roger.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - andymc {P}
Same here. Even more infuriating, it can sometimes take me 10 or 12 attempts to connect to the internet at all. This problem has been getting steadily worse over the last couple of weeks or so. I've taken to leaving the internet connected all evening once I get it going, so that if I want to use it again later on I don't have another 10 minutes of frustration. When I disconnect later on this evening, I'm going to check the line according to my ISP's instructions:

"Noise on the line is one of the biggest causes of connection instability. To check the quality of your signal, dial 17070, select the option for a quiet line and listen carefully for any crackles. The line should be free of any random noises.
Call your phone company and tell them that you are using a modem on your line and that you want AGC (automatic gain control) turned OFF and the gain increased. Make sure that you say there is nothing wrong with your normal voice communications (if that is the case), otherwise they will just do a normal line check."

If that doesn't solve it, I might have to change ISP. When I hear the computer "handshake" on dialup, it often starts squealing, or continues the handshake for much longer than usual - this makes me wonder if the problem is with the computer I'm connecting to.
andymc
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - malteser
Hmm- I recall this sort of problem from my early net days when I was on dial-up with screaming.net. At busy times it copuld take half an hour or more to connect and then the connection dropped frequently! It was however FREE(no monthly sub, no dial up charges) so I guess it was worth the hassle to have free off peak surfing.
I think the problem with dial-up access is something to do with your ISPs user to server port ratio. (May not be the correct techie term) Cheapo ISPS try and cram many more users into their network without upgrading their servers to carry the extra traffic.
I would lokk ar alternatives. Try this link www.the-scream.co.uk which, if I have the URL correct will give advice on ISPs amongst other things!
Roger.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Altea Ego
"Call your phone company and tell them that you are using a modem on your line and that you want AGC (automatic gain control) turned OFF and the gain increased. Make sure that you say there is nothing wrong with your normal voice communications (if that is the case), otherwise they will just do a normal line check."

I am afraid you have no "rights" to insist on this. You are paying for a voice grade line, and that is all they have to give you. If you want perfect line quality for data they can insist you pay for a data quality line.

Dialup is fraught with all sorts of variables. ADSL or Broadband is now getting as cheap as dial up. All you have to cope with then is contention ratios (thats 50 people all trying to use the same 2mb pipe)
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - malteser
"contention ratios" That's the techie term I couldn't remember!
Roger.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Welliesorter
I am afraid you have no "rights" to insist on this.
You are paying for a voice grade line, and that is
all they have to give you.


Not quite true. As far as I know, BT's current policy falls into line with that outlined in Oftel's final annual report* at www.ofcom.org.uk/legacy_regulators/oftel/annual_re...f (42 page Adobe Acrobat file):
In 2003, as part of implementing the new European
Directives on universal service, Oftel increased the
minimum Internet data speed. Previously, this minimum
speed was 2.4kbit/s. Oftel changed the regulations so
that communications providers must offer functional
Internet access. Initially Oftel has said that this means
at least 28.8kbit/s.

The reference to 'universal service' presumably means that the only UK phone companies expected to conform to this in the UK are BT and Kingston Communications (in Hull). The fact that I've just done a search for this proves that I really do need to get out more. Admittedly, many people would be disappointed with 28.8k nowadays, even on a dial-up connection.

BT will normally adjust the gain balance if you request it but if there's noise on the line this'll only make matters worse.

There's no point in making this adjustment if you have an ADSL line. If you have problems with ADSL internet connection and the phone service works, then you need to report it to your ISP rather than to BT. If the fault lies with BT, it's for the ISP to report it rather than you.

*The fact that I've just bothered doing a search for this is final conclusive proof that I need to get out more. The old Oftel site used to have this sort of consumer information in an easier to find and friendlier format.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Altea Ego
28.8k? wooo thats generous. I could get that down wet string.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Welliesorter
28.8k? wooo thats generous. I could get that down wet string.


Maybe, but the new guidelines are good news for anyone who can't connect at all.

28.8k was standard about six or seven years ago.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Altea Ego
I remember my first dial up at home - 300 baud. bout 81 i think. The modem was the size of a house brick.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Welliesorter
I remember my first dial up at home - 300 baud.
bout 81 i think. The modem was the size of a
house brick.


As small as that? I hardly dare ask how much it cost!
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Altea Ego
It was on "loan" ;)
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - frostbite
Somewhere amongst my piles of computeralia dotted about the house I have a Pace Nightingale with *switchable* facility between 300/300 and 1200/75.

Think that was for BBs and Prestel respectively. Anyone remember Prestel?
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - pmh
You are obviously all too young. First generation of BT modem 2A (in 1968?) was the size of a standard large(today) Desktop PC in a futuristic moulded plastic case. I think that max speed guaranteed was initially 200bps (asynchronous), altho most users were restricted to 110bps (8bit data, 1 start 2 stop bits, hence 10 chars per second) by the mechanical Teletype terminals. These were used by many people for accessing dial in computer Bureau services. Other available services on dial up were 1200/75 as later used for Prestel, and 600/600 half duplex I think.




pmh (was peter)
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Kuang
I still have an old acoustic coupler in a cupboard here at work somewhere...
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Welliesorter
As I'm partly responsible for causing this to drift away from Malteser's original problem I thought I should mention the possibility of the slowness being caused by a dodgy web proxy.

Most ISPs put something called a proxy server between you and the web. When you request a page the server checks to see if another user has requested the same thing recently. If they have, the server gives you not the actual page but a copy from its own cache. This is fine for pages that don't change often but can cause problems with things that change frequently. Also, if a proxy is overloaded or faulty it'll make web browsing slow or impossible.

If you're using Internet Explorer in Windows, you can find your current proxy settings by going into Tools - Internet Options and clicking the Connections tab. You then need to click the settings button for whichever connection you're using. If there's nothing in the proxy server fields you may still be using one unknowingly. Many ISPs force you to use a 'transparent' proxy whether your PC is explicitly configured to do so or not.

Do you know the speed of your connection to the internet? If you're actually connected at 256k but your web browsing is slow then it could easily be a proxy to blame. One telltale sign might be fast file and e-mail downloads but slow web browsing.

Without knowing the correct settings for your particular ISP and software I'm afraid I can't help with the specifics of what you'd need to do to correct the problem but this may still be an avenue worth pursuing. The answer for me would be at tinyurl.com/7kk7 as I'm an NTL user. The specifics on this page obviously won't be relevant to you but the general principles might.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - malteser
I hadn't thought of that. I don't have a local proxy on my PC and on a speed test from my ISP - Terra- I achieved a download speed of 216 kbps.
My Spanish is not good enough to quiz the "helpline" available to see if a forced proxy is in existence. At this time of day, web browsing is very fast, but as I said once the USA wakes up & gets on line the difference is marked.
Roger.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Mark (RLBS)
>>My Spanish is not good enough....

Malteser,

Mine is; If you wish, send em the URL and I'll look for you, although it won't be until this evening. That's presuming its generally online. If you have to have an account to read it, then perhaps you could extract the bits you don't understand and I'll translate them for you.
VERY, VERY sloooow Internet speed - Welliesorter
I hadn't thought of that. I don't have a local proxy
on my PC and on a speed test from my ISP
My Spanish
is not good enough to quiz the "helpline" available to see
if a forced proxy is in existence.


Try www.all-nettools.com/pr.htm . It may tell you.
VDU Problem - mark(NEScotland)
I have a Dell Dimension with Dell 15" monitor, approx 3yrs old. During the first five minutes after switching on, the picture gets 'sucked' in from the sides, like an egg timer. Top and bottom edges remain OK. Once warm it reverts back to full width. Is this the start of the tube failing?
VDU Problem - Mark (RLBS)
its on its way out, I'm afraid.
VDU Problem - Van Driving Man
approx 3yrs old.


Check on the actual purchase date. All the Dells I ever bought (at work) came with 3 yr warranty - including the monitors.
VDU Problem - Altea Ego
Probably not the tube, sound like the power stage. Probably not economic to repair tho if outside warranty given the price of new screens these days.
VDU Problem - mark(NEScotland)
Thanks for feedback guys; it is out of guarantee; I presume flatscreen replacement is on the cards when it expires.