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I have a question volume 31 - No Do$h

******* Thread now closed, please see volume 32 ********


www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=19345


In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.

It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.

No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which I think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )

Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.

However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.

This is Volume 31. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,

A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847

No Dosh
mailto:Alan_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Pop-Ups on PC screen - Oz
Aside from spam, IMHO the most irritating feature these days is dealing with constant Pop-Ups on the screen. A lot of them are overtly for the purpose of flogging Pop-Up-Killer software. Is this the only solution?
Oz (as was)
Pop-Ups on PC screen - No Do$h
If the pop-ups are of the annoying "Messenger Service" (Grey box)variety, rather than properly constructed ads, you don't need any software.

In any NT based OS (NT, 2000, XP) there is a service known as "netware" that allows system administrators to send pop-up messages, perhaps warning of impending system downtime. Microsoft, in their wisdom, have set this up as active by default on all PCs using the above OS. Not a lot of good if the only network you use is the internet.

You can turn this off with no damage to your OS by doing the following:

- Start
- Run
- type "services.msc" then enter (no quotation marks)
you will see a window for Services.
- scroll down to "Messenger" and double click on it. This will bring up Messenger Properties.
- click Stop
- click Apply
- Change startup type to disabled
- Click OK

No more Grey Messenger Service windows popping up to try and sell you software to do something that Microsoft allow you to do for free.....

Don't do this on a network unless without chatting to one of your IT administrators, as they may still want to use it for genuine warnings.
Pop-Ups on PC screen - Humdinger
Or if you're not running Win2000 or XP (or even if you are), you could just download a new browser, such as Mozilla Firebird (which I'm using to write to this), which apart from having an infinitely better name than Internet Explorer actually enables you to block all pop-up windows apart from ones you request by clicking on a link. Oh, also unlike IE, it's free, works on any platform and has fantastic support available as it's open source. I also find it's faster to open pages than IE, but thats just my opinion.

pop-up blocker works very well also, but has the disadvantage of blocking ALL pop-up windows, even if they are ones that you initiate.
Pop-Ups on PC screen - malteser
Yes, I agree about Firebird. Another nifty thing is that by use of extensions, available from Mozilla, all sorts of extra goodies are installable.
One of the best is "Flash click to view". This gizmo stops Flash animations playing all over ones screen. Instead, a red bordered box appears with [ Flash ], Click to view.
If you want to see the Flash object a click will show it
If you are rumnning Internet Explorer, "FlashSwitch", (search Google for it),will block all Flash until turned off. It is not selective, ie one cannot choose to view a specific Flash item and is therefore much less user friendly than the Mozilla tool.
Pop-Ups on PC screen - Oz
Thanks ND, your advice seems to have done the trick (Windows XP Pro incidentally).
Oz (as was)
Pop-Ups on PC screen - Hugo {P}
If the pop-ups are of the annoying "Messenger Service" (Grey box)variety,
rather than properly constructed ads, you don't need any software. etc etc.....


Thanks ND I'll give this one a go!

This is one of my top bug bears.


Hugo

"Forever indebted to experience of others"
Pop-Ups on PC screen - Dalglish
This is one of my top bug bears.
Hugo
"Forever indebted to experience of others"

>>

amazed peeps are still unaware of this.

type "messenger pop up spam" in google and see the results!
Pop-Ups on PC screen - THe Growler
Don't mess with changing your browser, it's a PITA relearning everything. Google has a toolbar you can download with a pop-up stopper which stops most of the garbage.
Laptop Batteries - carl_a
The batteries in last two laptops I have bought seem to go after about 2 years. For some reason its not the actual battery cells that go but the circuit that tells the computer how much charge there is. So there could be hours of life left but the laptop goes into sleep mode as its told the battery is 0% charged. Cycling the battery helps for a day or two then it goes back to how it was.

Anyone see a way past this problem ?
Laptop Batteries - Civic8
You don`t mention the type of battery but then I don`t own one?
Laptop Batteries - Kuang
The way a battery is charged throughout it\'s lifetime can have an impact on it\'s performance after a while. When I used to race RC cars I had to be sure to run the Ni-Cads completely flat before a charge because they\'d develop a \'memory\' and only recharge properly up to the amount left when they were plugged in. You\'d also have to make sure you trickle charged them at least once for every four or so fast charges. Li-Ion batteries (which make up the bulk of laptop ones) have a similar weakness, but not as pronounced.

2 years for any large rechargable battery, especially one that has to provide enough power to run a computer, is a pretty good run - even more so if that computer is used frequently and plugged in to charge every time it\'s been used. Look at the recent controversy over Apple iPod batteries wearing out after 18 months for a more current example of this. The fact that your computer is going to sleep with charge remaining suggests more that the battery might be providing inadequate voltage at lower charge levels rather than simply not having enough stored power. This could just be a sympton of natural wear and tear, although I really don\'t have enough experience of laptop battery longevity to state that with any real degree of confidence :)

The best bet is to make sure you use as much charge as possible before recharging, and plug in the mains adapter if you\'re just using the machine at home under normal circumstances. There are also issues regarding the temperature the batteries are stored at, but this really isn\'t a problem in 99% of cases.
Laptop Batteries - frostbite
I appreciate and agree with all said about fully discharging ni-cads before charging, but a problem can arise here with many items that shut down at a low level and refuse to fully discharge the battery.

There are (e.g.) video camera battery chargers which will provide a discharge before charge function, but with many devices it requires some fiddly, Heath Robinson like homebrew contraptions to achieve this, so many don't bother even if they are aware of this feature.
Laptop Batteries - carl_a
Turning off the automatic turn off is what I'm trying to do, the battery cells still work great, if I start it up in the bios it will last for at least 2 1/2 hours. I have an 8 year old laptop that still works for 2 hours on the original battery (no clever electronics in this one).
My Conspiracy theory is that the manufactures build in some sort of destruction code into the battery so that it stops working properly after so many charges.
Laptop Batteries - ianhad
Please check the type of battery fitted. If you have Ni-Cad, then the advice given is fine. However, if you have Li-On batteries,DO NOT deep dis-charge them, very dangerous.
Audio CD's differ. How ? - buzbee

PC users are familiar with making audio recordings on cheap, readily available, blank CDs. Not so the user of, at least some, domestic equipments. When they try using an ordinary CD it gets rejected, "No CD". Instead, the equipment requires CDs that are labelled 'audio CD'.

Clearly the 'audio CD' has something on it that the domestic unit reads before allowing the audio recording to go ahead. My guess is a special data track.

Thus I tried using a 5.59 or so version of Nero Express to copy a 'blank' audio CD to a cheap CD, but it said the audio one had no data. I guess it could still have data but no directory to enable it to be read.

Question: How does the audio CD differ ? If it is by a data track, are there programs available that can put such a track on a cheap CD ?

Audio CD's differ. How ? - Kuang
You're more or less on the ball there :)

There's a chunk of data called the ATIP information (Absolute Time In Pregroove) on writeable and recordable discs. This contains details (among other things) of the manufacturer, capacity, dye specification, maximum burn speed and a Disc Application Code to identify the allowed usage. Because of copyright agreements, lots of home audio kit is programmed to reject anything not marked as 'CD-DA Recordable/Rewritable' in the DAC. This is supposed to allow different copyright rules to be used for discs destined for commercial and home usage.

Because this information sits in the unwriteable area of the disc I don't believe it's possible to duplicate it through software techniques, but I could be wrong.
Audio CD's differ. How ? - buzbee
Kuang:

Thanks for that. All very interesting and explains a lot to me.

Presumably the ATIP info. is on a track on the extreme outside or inside of the CD where the burner does not normally burn ? I wonder which ?
Audio CD's differ. How ? - Kuang
It's on the inside - CDs play inside to outside, and the pregroove is the area before the first writable part of the disc begins. The precise location of the outer edge of a CD is open to question, as the substrate on cheap discs often tails off and becomes ragged. You can often overburn a disc to cram a few extra megabytes on, but you can't guarantee it'll work.
Audio CD's differ. How ? - buzbee
Kuang: Thanks

But "CDs play inside to outside" does not seem to be the case for ones that have been partially used to save computer data, as these can be seen to have used the OUTSIDE of the disk. So does that mean data and music use the disk differently ?

Unfortunately, it is now evening and the artificial light does not allow me to see where the music has been written to on one of my audio disks. But I shall look with much interest tomorrow.
Audio CD's differ. How ? - Dynamic Dave
But "CDs play inside to outside" does not seem to be
the case for ones that have been partially used to save
computer data, as these can be seen to have used the
OUTSIDE of the disk. So does that mean data and music
use the disk differently ?


I think you're incorrect. Data recordings still get written from the centre outwards.
Audio CD's differ. How ? - Kuang
As DD correctly says, they definitely all record the same way :) If you place around 50mb of data on a fresh disc, you'll notice a different colour tone from the inside of the disc stretching out by about 5mm. Having said that, I'm not sure if certain drag-n-drop packet writing techniques place a header at the outer limit of the writeable area. Standard ISO discs will always start at the spindle though.
CDRs multisession burn. - M.M
While we're (sort-of) on the subject.

My replacement CDR/RW drive is working really well but I've come across something that is driving me mad, yet it seems to be a valid "feature".

If you keep a CDR open for several sessions then clicking on that CD in My Computer will only show the files from the last session..all the rest are hidden and can only be accessed by a tedious right click procedure...and even then never all the files at one go.

As far as I can see it makes multisession burning a waste of time.

Any ideas?

M.M
Audio CD's differ. How ? - buzbee
Kuang:

Tuesday a.m.

In the past I remember seeing a narrow strip of changed colour round the outside of a CD when I did a small recording and yes, I did have a drag and drop package before changing to Nero. But may be my memory is at fault and so it was time to look again.

I have just done that, and yes, you are right. Disks use the inside first.

I used a laser pen and shone it on the disk at about 30 degrees away from the normal. (Holding the disk in such a way that the mirror reflection did not come back in my eye ! !). The reflection from unrecorded material bounced off it like it does from a mirror. Little or no scatter where the spot strikes the disk and so that spot itself was near invisible. Not so when it struck where the digits had been recorded.

This showed I had treated the recorded part of a recently looked at disk as being the unrecorded ! Fooled by just looking at the colour change on a disk I thought had only a small amount of data on it, and therefore a small burn area, when the burn area was actually the larger of the two

This has been a very useful exchange, thanks.

DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - Oz
Just bought a DVD film via the internet from a well-known supplier of books, discs, etc. (USA based).
On trying to play the DVD, our screen reads: "This disc may not be played in your region."
Our DVD player display reads "NO PLAY."
As above company happily mailed it to us in the UK, what's gone wrong?
Oz (as was)
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - Manatee
Region 2 discs are made for Europe. From memory the US is Region 1 and the idea is that the players sold in each region match the discs sold there so that the issuers can control copyright, release dates etc., regionally (and incidentally price differently?)

If the well known company is Amazon, then they usually make it clear what region DVDs are made for.

Many players are now sold as "multi region" and many other can be "hacked" to play DVDs from any region - if you put your model number into Google with the words "region" and "hack" you will probably come up with something. Often the cheaper players are easiest to hack - I have one bought from Safeway that you can hack using the remote and set whatever region you like.
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - No Do$h
Just bought a DVD film via the internet from a well-known
supplier of books, discs, etc. (USA based).
On trying to play the DVD, our screen reads: "This disc
may not be played in your region."
Our DVD player display reads "NO PLAY."
As above company happily mailed it to us in the UK,
what's gone wrong?
Oz (as was)



Oz, can you post details of your DVD player? May have a "hack" that will allow you to play region 1.
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - Oz
It's the current Panasonic combination DVD/Video player. In the meantime I have gathered that the 'protection' is designed to prevent UK residents benefiting from importing 'cheap' DVDs from the USA!
Oz (as was)
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - Welliesorter
May
have a "hack" that will allow you to play region 1.

www.dvd.reviewer.co.uk is a good source of this kind of information.
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - No Do$h
>> May
>> have a "hack" that will allow you to play region
1.
>>
www.dvd.reviewer.co.uk is a good source of this kind of information.


Ah. Panasonic players can only be hacked by physically "chipping" the unit, although there is a company that claims to have a remote that will decode your player. They charge £20, it can only be used once to decode the player, then you have to sent it back to them!

Personally I would shop around for a local shop that will chip it for you if you want to buy discs from other regions.
DVD ex USA, not playable in UK! - THe Growler
Great to be in the Philippines.....Bong's Electronics down the road in his garden shed will "de-regionize" anything you like in about 5 minutes for the price of a beer. Make your cellphone open-line as well so you can use any SIM you want.
What site is my PC downloading from? - Manatee
When I connect to the internet recently, my PC immediately starts downloading apparently large volumes of data. Just now I have been connected for 22 minutes, and have only loaded 2 or 3 pages on this site and downloaded less than 100k of emails - but so far bytes received total over 2.4MB and it's still coming as I write this.

Is there a way to see what this is and where its coming from?

I'm aware of some legitimate reason for relatively small ammounts of data to be exchanged - such as the virus checker or Windows update telling me there are updates to download - but only recently have such large volumes been received (now up to 2.9MB).

How can I figure out what's going on?
What site is my PC downloading from? - MV
As far as I remember it is possible to set the Windows Update thingummy to automatically download updates whenever you are connected to the internet and only actually tell you about them when they are downloaded and ready to install - is this what is happening? This was extremely annoying on my laptop when it was set to be on, as accessing the internet would be incredibly slow!

The other thing to do is to press control-alt-delete and have a look if anything suspicious is running, although it can often be tricky to tell.
What site is my PC downloading from? - malteser
BTW, there is a new critical update on the MS Windows XP update site. Another security hole plugged - we hope!
What site is my PC downloading from? - Manatee
I usually get a message when there's a critical update from MS and then download it (as with the one this last week)so I don't expect it's doing this without telling me.

I've changed all the very few "available offline" bookmarks so it's not updating those.

As you suggested I've looked at Rask Manager but it's not obvious that there's anything going on there.

I'm now up to 12MB for this session - and I've spent most of the last hour cooking the dinner!

It seems to have stopped now...

I'm quite puzzled about this as I've never seen it before.

What site is my PC downloading from? - billy25
manatee, are you running any firewall programs such as zone alarm?, i also, recently had a problem like this, and although i haven't yet managed to track down what my pc was recieving, as soon as i thought it had started doing something suspicious, i hit the internet lock on zonealarm, after a few times of doing this, it (computer) or "them" seemed to get the message and it hasn't happened since. bit worrying all the same! but if i can find what i got, i'll let you know.

billy.
What site is my PC downloading from? - Dalglish
manattee:
even better, install free
agnitum outpost firewall

not only blocks anything you don't want but you can see exactly what is coming in or out and thru which port and to which host.

search google for free dwonload site.
What site is my PC downloading from? - Dalglish
manattee: for a screenshot & review of free version

www.georgedillon.com/web/freeware/agnitumoutpost.s...l
What site is my PC downloading from? - Manatee
I am currently relying on the XP firewall which I have been told is fairly basic. I unloaded the VCOM suite firewall as it was causing problems - I'll have a look at alternatives I think - but I'd still like to know what's going on! I haven't noticed any ill effects yet...

Thanks all for for your comments.

What site is my PC downloading from? - Humdinger
Manatee,

my advice to you would be to hesitate no longer in d'loading a free firewall such as zone alarm and installing it. In the case of zone alarm, configuration is easy and any applications requesting access to the internet will be flagged up, at which point you can either grant access or permanently block them. Plus, if you have any reservations about what exactly is trying to get into, or out of your pc (some of the programs can have very inconclusive names like svchost) then you can automatically query them with the online database maintained by the zone alarm people, which usually tells you which apps are bona fide, and those which aren't.

Some reasons that your pc could be doing this are:

well known mIRC exploit used to take over boxes and host distributed 'dumping grounds' for porn, illegal software, credit card lists etc.

an unscrupulous script kiddie has taken over your box and using it to initiate DDos (distributed denial of service) attacks on large, well protected servers (potentially maintained by litigious companies) etc.

If the data flow is mainly inbound then thankfully it doesn't sound like you've been hit by a trojan (which could be logging ALL your keystrokes and reporting them to home, so credit card details etc can be compromised).

In short, particularly if you are running XP or 2000, implement some sort of firewall solution asap. I work in the IT industry and this sort of thing DOES happen to people, especially if you're on broadband. In addition to a firewall I'd also update your current antivirus and run a full in-depth system check. If you don't have antivirus at the mo, have a look at Sophos (google search will bring it up) as it's free and good.

let us know how you get on,

Humdinger
What site is my PC downloading from? - Manatee
Thanks - tomorrow night's job will be to look into the firewall options - by the time the mystery download stopped tonight it was up to 12MB which is completely baffling.

Will feed back IDC.
Cashing a Cheque - mfarrow
Hi,

Can I take a cheque written in my name from another persons account into my bank and ask them to cash it straight away? would they do it for free or would they charge?

Cheers


Mike Farrow
Cashing a Cheque - Welliesorter
Can I take a cheque written in my name from another
persons account into my bank and ask them to cash it
straight away?


Not normally because most cheque books are now pre-printed with crossed cheques (intended only to be paid into a bank account) and contain the words 'a/c payee only' (self-explanatory).

Also, presumably, you'd have to present the cheque at the drawer's bank rather than your own.

Doubtless someone with better knowledge of the banking system would be able to state any loopholes and tell you how someone could write a cheque that's designed to be cashed on the spot, if this is still possible. I don't know whether a bank would honour a cheque payable to the bearer.

The recent thread on cancelling a cheque (www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=19...5 ) discussed various options for getting the proceeds from a cheque quickly.

I believe the cheque cashing shops that have cropped up in recent years operate by indemnifying the paying bank from the consequences of paying when they shouldn't and they charge quite a big fee as a result. Again, I'll bow to anyone's superior knowledge of how this works.
Cashing a Cheque - THe Growler
Time was you could open the crossing by writing "please pay cash, joe bloggs", where joe is the account holder across it. Any bank should have the answer.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Brill {P}
I have a log cabin, and would like to use it as an office. It's only been used during the summer, but I need all-year-round use and am wondering what the best/cheapest/practical/efficient method of heating will be. It has mains electricity supply.

Size is about 15 x 30 feet.

Stu.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Stargazer {P}
In a word....INSULATION

Is the log cabin lined at all? 25 or 50mm of Celotex insulation with plasterboard stuck on will reduce heating costs dramatically, Use on ceilings and walls.

I think Myson have a heatloss calculator on their web pages, enter the size of room and materials (not sure if they have 'logs' for a wall material) and they tell you the heat power required to maintain a given temp. Add insulation and see the difference. This is fairly easy to do even without the calculator, you just require all the dimensions and U values of the construction materials.

This will also allow you to see if a portable electical heater (ie 3kW) will suffice after adding insulation.

Do not use portable gas burning heaters...they produce vast amounts of water vapour which will create a massive condensation problem.

hth
Ian L.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Brill {P}
Thanks Ian,

No insulation at present, the walls and roof are solid wood, about 3" thick (A sort of heavy duty Scandinavian tongue and groove). The roof then has roofing felt on top. It does have secondary double-glazing.

Avoiding condensation is important (computers), so will give gas a miss. How about those (oil filled?) electric radiators. The portable heater you mention...is that the fan heater variety?

Stu.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Baskerville
I work in a similar (smaller) building and use an oil filled radiator. It seems efficient enough and with the timer it can warm the place up before I arrive there in the morning. I think you'll need more than one for a room that size though and at 3KW times two, plus all the other office equipment, lighting and so on, you'll have to look hard at your electricity supply if it's provided on a spur off a domestic ring main. Just to think laterally for a minute, what about some kind of solid fuel stove? They are excellent heaters and will burn slowly all night so no relighting. OK, so there's the ash to consider, but it's no great hardship once a day. I'd have one if my cabin was big enough.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Stargazer {P}
Stu,

Definitely add the insulation if the walls are only wood.

By portable heaters..I meant electrical, fan or oil filled radiators, but these will be limited to 3kW each and you can only run so many off a normal ring main. So insulation to reduce the amount of heating required is still a must have. The oil filled ones are good (I have some) but they take a little longer to warm a room since they rely on convection rather than forced (fan) ventilation but they are quiet.

A better (more efficient) but more major installation method is to put a plate heat exchanger on the house CH, then run a heating loop from the house out to the log cabin to feed a couple of radiators. A separate pump for the log cabin and use an antifreeze corrosion inhibitor for the rads. The pipelins to and from the house should be buried at least 450mm deep and run in super-insulated conduits. Would require a frost stat as well. This is the most expensive installation but cheapest to run.

but wihtout insulation you are fighting a losing battle.

Ian L.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - wemyss
Brill, I agree with Ian that all the insulation you can provide is essential.
This is quite a large size room to heat and there is always the possibility of partitioning it off to save on heating costs.
However if that isn?t satisfactory I have just tapped some figures out on my calculator and not having the ?U? value available for timber have given it 0.5 which sounds reasonable. Also assumed that your ceiling hasn?t been underdrawn.
Also assumed the heating could maintain a temperature of 70f with an ambient temperature of 27f.
Very rough figures I know but this would give including heat loss a figure of around 20,000btu or 5.8KW.
Rounding up you therefore need around 6KW to give a comfortable working environment.
As regards the methods of heating I personally would not consider wet central heating installation as it would not be cost effective and would your present system allow for another 20,000 heat losses to be drawn from it.. Also adding another circ pump can create other problems such as creating unwanted circulation to other circuits.
That leaves you primarily with bottled gas or electric. Having spent many many months using large Portakabins as a site office on large sites, they have always been heated by oil filled radiators and found them satisfactory. Usually they have their own thermostat or can be wired to one roomstat as preferred.
I think this is probably your best option and as stated previously would need a supply taken by an underground armoured cable from your incoming house supply, which would be of a size suitable for all requirements including lighting and would be easily sized by your installer.
Insulation has been mentioned and is very important. If your cabin does not have a ceiling it would be cost effective to have it done although it may not be aesthetically pleasing to a log cabin.
The above figures are not totally accurate but experience tells me they are about right although there are always variables in heating related to individuals. Many never feel happy without some form of radiant heating such as an electric fire where they can actually feel the heat. As such I would make provision for a wall mounted electric fire close by your desk. This will give an illusory effect as much as anything but can be essential to many I have known.
Heating a Log Cabin (office) - jeds
Brill, You can work it out scientifically but I promise you it isn't worth it. The reason is that your heating requirement is so small that it will come down to what is available off the shelf - this won't match your calculation so you will have to make a compromise that will blow your calcs out of the window.

As a rule of thumb - allow 40-50w per cubic metre - you have 125 cube - total equal 5.00 to 6.25 kW

I have a cabin about half your size as my office with a 3kW oil filled electric heater - it has two elements which are switched independently. In 4 years the second element has never been switched on. My advice would be a 4 to 5 kW heater.

As has been mentioned you should insulate with a layer of 50mm Celotex. It is vitally important that you then add a vapour barrier - otherwise you will have severe damp which will spoil the surfaces and rot will quickly set into the timber. So; timber structure:insulation:vapour barrier:internal finish (prob plasterboad)

Heating a Log Cabin (office) - Stargazer {P}
Celotex is available with foil vapour barrier to both sides and then bonded to plasterboard...single stop solution with no messing about with different layers
Ian L.
Mathematical Mind Required... - PoloGirl
(Blimey...two questions in a row that aren't about Spam, pop-ups or other IT related things... ;-) )

One of my modules at uni is two assignments worth 35% each and an exam worth 30%. Things are marked out of 80, with anything over 70 being equivalent to a 1st, which is obviously what I'm after!

So, given that:

Assignment 1 (worth 35%): 58 (left it til the last minute!)
Assignment 2: (worth 35%): 77 (feeling v. chuffed today!)

What would I have to get for the exam (on wednesday and worth 30%) to get an overall grade for the module of over 70?

(And how do you work it out?)

I don't know...I swear I have a mathematical form of dyslexia... good job my degree is in words and pictures and not numbers!

Thank you!!

Mathematical Mind Required... - Humdinger
right, I did maths a long time ago but I reckon this is right. You nedd to find what percentage of 80 your score was. So for assignment 1 you would do (100/80) x 58 = 72.55. Now this is only a percentage of 35% (still with me ?) , so the secondary calculation has to be (35/100) x 72.5 = 25.375.

So for your first assignment, you actually scored 25.375%, which will count towards your final score. Doing the maths for the second assignment (I won't recount it all again here) sees you with a score of 33.69% (rounding for simplicity to 33.7). All this menas that so far you have a combined score of 25.4 + 33.7 = 59.1%, so subtracting this from you ideal score of 71% means you have to contribute 12% from the final exam. This actually correlates to a exam result of only 32% !!

Hope this makes sense...well done by the way, it appears you're almost there !
Mathematical Mind Required... - PoloGirl
Thanks! I'm a long way from there (still got 15000 words to write), but I will promise to thank the back room when I get to wear the gown and silly hat in about 8 months time!

Someone's just told me that actually the marks are percentages, but that noone actually gets more than 80 ever. Does that make a difference to the calculations... let me try and work it out and you can all see how thick I am!

Assignment 1: 58 x (35/100) = 20.3%
Assignment 2: 77 x (35/100) = 26.25%

So far combined = 46.55%

Need a further 28.45% to get a score of 75% overall (aiming high!)

..ok I don't know how to do the last bit! I used to be clever, honestly!


Mathematical Mind Required... - Humdinger
I don't think that works because you've not taken into account that the assignments are marked out of 80, and that they equate to only a fraction of the 35% that you could attain for that assignment...I think. basically by just doing 58 x (35/100) you're doing yourself out of some marks as it should actually be

(100/80 x 58) x (35/100)

don't forget that 1% of 80 is actually 1.25% of 100, so 58% of 80 is 72.5% of 100. The next stage is just to work out the weighting, and that's easy - it's just 72.5% of 35, or (35/100) x 72.5 = 25.4

I found it easier to not think of the final percentages (i.e. the ones out of 35% as a percentage, but rather as a score which you can then tot up to see how far off you are from 75)

hope this is clear(er),

humdinger.
Mathematical Mind Required... - Baskerville
I seriously doubt this is the way it will be worked out, and I have quite a bit of experience in these things. While the different assignments and exam are given 35, 35 and 30 percent, this is likely to be notional, to make the adding up easier and to give the students some idea of what each piece of work is "worth". In reality I bet it will be split three ways. That is to say that the three results will be added together and divided by three. On the other hand some departments work on a "preponderance" system, of which there are several variations. So for example (not in this case), if a mark of 69 in the exam would pull a candidate into the 70s overall he/she would still only get a 2:1 if two of the three assessments were below 70. In this case you will need to score in the 70s to get an overall 1st, so preponderance won't apply. Incidentally if you end up a borderline 1st (say an overall score of 70) your 58 may work against you in the exam meeting. But that's down to the individual board.

Bear in mind that on the whole university examiners want to raise grades rather then drop them, and they always have.
Mathematical Mind Required... - Humdinger
Can't say I blame them - it would take hours to work out the final results by hand if there were a large no of students doing these assignments. However, you could set up a spreadsheet with the relevant formulas in a matter of mins, then feed in the figures for all the students and have it calculate them all for you.

Even so, to just work out the mean of the 3 and use this as the official result seems a little wrong to me, when you've publicised that the assignments and exam are weighted.

still what do I know, I dropped out of academia when I was still practically wearing short trousers !

humdinger
Mathematical Mind Required... - Baskerville
It can seem unfair I agree, but in the final analysis most students fall pretty comfortably into a degree classification. The borderline candidates are discussed at meetings and their overall mark altered and adjusted to give them what they deserve based on their general performance (anyone can screw up an exam after all). All assessments are marked by at least two people (Pologirl's marks may well be provisional at the moment anyway) and marginal cases go to an external examiner as well. This is all done anonymously in most places these days, so there's no favouritism or bias.
Mathematical Mind Required... - Paul Robinson
If all three parts are marked out of 80 and you need an average of 70 out of 80 for a first:

You need (3 x 70) 210 marks for a first. You already have (58 + 77) 135 marks. So in the exam you need (210 - 135) 75 marks!
Mathematical Mind Required... - PoloGirl
Paul... I don't think that works, because they're weighted grades. Or am I trying to make this more complicated than it actually is?

Mathematical Mind Required... - Pugugly {P}
I hope the exam wasn't in applied maths !
Mathematical Mind Required... - PoloGirl
Thanks all... thankfully it's not in maths at all, it's in advertising!

I'll just revise really hard and aim for 75 I think... after I've watched Corrie and Crashes That Changed Formula 1.

Mathematical Mind Required... - Baskerville
I'll just revise really hard and aim for 75 I think...


It's the only way--not worth worrying about it. Good luck.
Mathematical Mind Required... - Paul Robinson

The weighted grades factors only makes a very minor difference. Aim for 76 to be on the safe side!

Having said all that, lots of employers are not so sure about people with firsts! I think the theory is that you have to very very hard to get a first, we all know that all work and no play makes dull people. Many employers don't want dull people aim for a good 2:1!

Mathematical Mind Required... - Dalglish
The weighted grades factors only makes a very minor difference.
Aim for 76 to be on the safe side!
Having said all that, lots of employers are not so sure
about people with firsts! I think the theory is that
you have to very very hard to get a first,
we all know that all work and no play makes dull
people. Many employers don't want dull people aim for a
good 2:1!


my opinions below based on "friends" in the right places in the russell group.

very probably true in the old days. but nowadays uni degrees are devalued and the value depends on the uni.

afaik pologirls post timed at 17.52 is correct. 80 is 80% max that is given to unusual high quality work. rare to go over 80%

the calcultaion
" You need (3 x 70) 210 marks for a first. You already have (58 + 77) 135 marks. So in the exam you need (210 - 135) 75 marks! " is correct assuming that the 58 and 77 are % figures.

on that basis pologirl needs 75% or more in final submission.
Mathematical Mind Required... - Dalglish
alternatively,

if the weighting is in the ratio 35:35:30
pologirl is right to say she needs another

28.5 marks out of 30
= 95% score in the last paper!! for a first.


upper second used to be 65 - 70 % overall.
if that applies, pologirl needs 23.5 marks to get 65% minimum.
23.5 marks out of 30
= 73.57 % in final paper for a 2.1
Mathematical Mind Required... - Baskerville
alternatively,
if the weighting is in the ratio 35:35:30
pologirl is right to say she needs another
28.5 marks out of 30
= 95% score in the last paper!! for a first.
upper second used to be 65 - 70 % overall.
if that applies, pologirl needs 23.5 marks to get 65% minimum.
23.5 marks out of 30
= 73.57 % in final paper for a 2.1


I've been involved in Higher Education one way or another since the mid-1980s and an upper second has been 60-70 in all of the seven polytechnics/universities I've been involved with in that time, so you must be talking about a long time ago, or Oxbridge, which is the same thing. It's right to say that 80 is usually seen as the maximum possible, but it's measured out of 100, in reality if not in the documents. Whichever way you work it out Pologirl needs a clear first in her final paper to get a first overall, though as I've hinted very few marks are taken as absolutes in examiners' meetings: there is a great deal of "remodelling" using various methods, to get the candidates the best possible overall grade. Marks do not generally get "remodelled" downwards other than in cases of, for example, a very good candidate who is caught cheating.

For the record the degree classification in most UK universities is as follows and has been for well over a decade. There are some minor variations, usually in the lower grades:

1=70+
2.1=60-69
2.2=50-59
3=40-49
Pass (non-honours) degree=35-39
Fail=34 and below.
Mathematical Mind Required... - RichardW
Having said all that, lots of employers are not so sure
about people with firsts! I think the theory is that
you have to very very hard to get a first,
we all know that all work and no play makes dull
people. Many employers don't want dull people aim for a
good 2:1!


Oh PFD - I've got a 1st. In engineering. I must be really dull!

Anyway, PG, given that it's a words exam and not numbers one where there is a right and wrong answer, I think you're going to find it v difficult to aim at a mark! Work hard and enjoy the praise....


--
RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Mathematical Mind Required... - L'escargot
One of my modules at uni is....

I don't know...I swear I have a mathematical form of dyslexia...
good job my degree is in words and pictures and not
numbers!


When I was at university some 40-odd years ago, all undergraduates had a good knowledge of basic arithmetic. They had to have, otherwise they wouldn't have gained admission!! Sign of the times......?
--
L'escargot by name, but not by nature.
Refuse Collection from Rural Areas - Nsar
Our local authority Rochdale is trying to stop refuse collections from houses on unadopted roads and replace it with collection points where farm tracks meet the metalled road. This would mean schlepping my rubbish over half a mile several times a week.
Does anyone if any other Councils have tried to push this through and failed?
Any offers from solictors wanting to take this on as a pro-bono job - he adds hopefully.....
Refuse Collection from Rural Areas - Pugugly {P}
Part of rural life here as well. Not thought to challenge it. Have a think about it. Built a trailer to drag the bins to the road.
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - malteser
In an effort to escape the all embracing clutches of His Billiness, I am having fun finding & using alternatives to Microsoft programs & applications, So far I am using Mozilla Firebird (free) as my browser, Pocomail as my email client, (not free but freely available - er Shush - from the internet)and have just downloaded and am exploring Open Office (free) as a replacement for MS Office.
I would love to try Linux, but SWMBO HATES change on the PC and would carry out unmentionable things to my person if I crashed the PC while installing & learning Linux!
Any ideas for other MS-free goodies?
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - frostbite
Power Desk is miles better than Windows Explorer and only gives you a \'buy me\' nag occasionally.
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - Adam {P}
If I\'m not mistaken, you can install many instances of Windows on Linux. In fact, 2 years ago in Sixth Form we installed Linux on a machine and could switch within seconds from Windows 98 to Windows 2000. The best of both worlds!

--
\"Give Way\"? Wait....I know this one...give me a minute
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - Humdinger
malteser,

If you\'re really hell bent on persuing the anti-M$ desktop then look no further than Linux. Redhat for example looks better than XP, hardly ever crashes and the kernel is more efficient at utilising the cpu than windows, hence you usually get a performance gain into the bargain (which considering it\'s free to start with is pretty good).

However, if you are not an expert on things computerish, leave well alone. I am a computer systems engineer by trade and every single time I\'ve installed linux to have a play with, I\'ve binned it within two weeks as I\'ve grown fed up with having to hack the operating system to provide support for things like USB etc.

Linux is great if you are happy with what it does out of the box, if however you need to make it do something new, and you are a habitual windoze user like me, you\'ll probably struggle as it\'s a totally different approach - even stuff like installing new software under redhat can be a challenge to the regular windoze user. If, though, you are the sort of person that enjoys a challenge, go for it. A final word of warning - make sure you install it on a totally separate hard disc from your windows installation - the dual boot support in linux is excellent, so you can preserve your existing install of windows for the missus (and for when you actually need to do something like burn a CD or download pics from your dig camera), it makes it a lot easier to install, and a LOT easier to uninstall should you wish to.

To return to your original post, have a butchers at osswin.sourceforge.net/ loads of stuff that may interest you in there...

Cheers,

Humdinger
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - Kuang
best way to get your head around linux is to grab a version that boots from a CD and runs in memory. Reset the machine and you\'re back in the safety of Microsloth Windoze-land :)

I recommend Knoppix and the new version of SuSE - if you hurry and take a look at this month\'s Linux magazines, you might just catch the SuSE version free on the coverdisk of one of them (along with the full install version if you decide to commit). The Knoppix site is now discontinued but still accessable, and there\'s a link to download the latest ISO image. Knoppix is based around Debian, so comes with a certain level of quality control that you wouldn\'t really expect from a lot of open source stuff.

Both the above versions of Linux contain the OS itself, plenty of office and productivity apps, games, networking and internet gadgets.. you name it, it\'s on there somewhere. They\'re also fantastic to have around as recovery discs in case an install goes west and you need to get information off it sharpish but don\'t have the time for a full repair - just boot the OS and connect to a network to back up the stuff, or use one of the built-in CD burner apps :)
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - Baskerville
Mepis Linux is another "live CD" that runs from the CD rather than installing anything. If you want to install it to the hard disk once you've checked it runs all your hardware just click "Install". It will even partition your hard disk so you can keep Windows on there and choose which to use when you switch the machine on. Linux distributions include everything from MS compatible office software to image viewers, several different web browsers, games, graphics programs, cd players etc, yet Mepis takes about twenty to thirty minutes (yes really) to install. It's still a bit experimental but since you can try before you install you don't have to worry about messing anything up.

The site is: www.mepis.org

NOTE: unless you get hold of the proprietary drivers it is extremely unlikely that Linux will be able to use so-called Winmodems. These are the cheap modems bundled with most PCs and rely on software to work. Linux drivers are available but they can be tricky especially if you're new to this. Better to get hold of a proper hardware modem and free up some system resources at the same time.

Have fun and remember: it's not Windows, so don't expect it to be like Windows.

Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - Welliesorter
Try www.livingwithoutmicrosoft.org

You've already mentioned the biggies: GNU/Linux and its variants, OpenOffice.org and the Mozilla browsers and mail program.

Knoppix (www.knopper.net/knoppix/index-en.html ) is good if you have a reasonably fast and modern PC, and want a worry-free way to try Linux. You can use it without installing anything. It works fine on my 2000 vintage P933 with 384 MB of RAM, which isn't terribly modern now.
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - THe Growler
I have used the 602 Office Suite for the last 3 years. It is totally free and does everything MS Office will do and more. Files can be saved in MS-compatible formats (doc, xls etc). It has a whole bunch of useful templates for standard applications like fax and has a graphics editor to boot.

The MS equivalent is thus a total waste of money.
Alternatives to Microsoft Programs. - malteser
Thanks to the members of this most useful and entertaining forum for your replies to my question! There is obviously much research ahead for me.
PC Help Forums. - M.M
Never really found a PC help forum that does what I want (hence all the questions in previous IHAQ's).

Are there any that are suited to the less than geeky types?

I've got ASPI questions about Nero/CDR.

M.M
PC Help Forums. - maz64
You could try groups.yahoo.com/group/A-Helping-Hand/ - reasonably busy, with an American bias but UK posters as well (not that it makes much difference for many technical questions).
PC Help Forums. - Clanger
M.M I have followed your posts about DVD drives and I think you are headed for Geekdom at a fair old pace. Knowing what ASPI stands for fairly brands you as a Geek trainee.


Hawkeye
-----------------------------
Stranger in a strange land
PC Help Forums. - Flat in Fifth
M.M I have followed your posts about DVD drives and I
think you are headed for Geekdom at a fair old pace.
Knowing what ASPI stands for fairly brands you as a Geek
trainee.
Hawkeye



H,

because I would automatically link Aspi with Spumante does that mean I've avoided geekdom then?

Yours Confusedly
FiF

TV licence inspector - Mapmaker
I note the requirement that this site must not be used to promote a political agenda of any sort. I don't think it is a political agendum, but will understand if the moderators wish to delete! Personally I think it is a civil liberties issue along the line of fining speeding motorists disproportionately.

If I may offer you a little vignette from SE1 this lunchtime.

Knock Knock

Me: Hello
Visitor: This is my identification card
M: Sorry I'm not interested [assumed in buying dodgy goods from door to door salesman]
V: No I is (sic) from TV licencing
M: No thank you
V: It is a legal requirement for you to have a TV licence
M: No it is not
V: [gobsmacked silence]
M: [thinking quicklyish] Did you just say that it is a legal requirement for me to have a TV licence?
V: Yes
M: No it is not, goodbye. [And shuts door]

2 minutes later I chase him down the road, get his name and get him to sign a piece of paper that confirms he told me that it was a legal requirement to have a licence.

I have no television, so it is certainly not a requirement for me to have such a licence.

Now, dear reader, what do you suggest? Letter to BBC complaining about menaces; letter to MP complaining about menaces, cc to Boris Johnson & the Daily Telegraph Free country campaign.
TV licence inspector - helicopter
Rant....

Mapmaker - About once every month I get a letter at my office from these TV licencing morons who insist that we have a TV and that we advise them of details etc on massive attached form . We never have had and never will have a television.

I get the non reply paid envelope that they send and stuff their forms into it and send back to them unstamped . Why should I have to fill in their forms and pay for stamps to send them any information.

What I don't like is the presumption of guilt and the fact that you have to prove to these pipsqueak jobsworths that you are innocent . GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR *$+!!!!!

Now where did I put that valium......
TV licence inspector - PoloGirl
Is it not a legal requirement then? Why do I pay £100 a year then?

Have I missed the point?

TV licence inspector - No Do$h
Is it not a legal requirement then? Why do I pay
£100 a year then?
Have I missed the point?


By a country mile.

It's not a legal requirement if you don't have a TV.
TV licence inspector - Mapmaker
Perhaps, Miss PoloGirl, because you have a television set? I don't... If you don't have a television set, then you might actually be surprised to learn, you don't have to have a television licence. If you believe the letters that come through your door, you might doubt this. Hence my unabated fury (hitherto reserved for traffic wardens putting tickets on my car when I'd put money into a meter that didn't produce a ticket)!
TV licence inspector - Dalglish
mapmaker:

i am not lawyer. have look at

www.jifvik.org/tv/ last updated dec 2002 so law may have changed. but also look at

www.tv-l.co.uk/licence/licence.html
If you use or install television receiving equipment to receive or record television programme services you are required by law to have a valid TV Licence.

so if you use or install a tv but do not receive or record tv progs on it you are not required by law to have a licence.

you do not own tv = no problem!
TV licence inspector - jeds
Just for clarification. You do not need a TV licence just for owning a TV set. You only need one if you use that set to recieve or record a television programme.

i.e. you can view pre-recorder DVD\'s and videos or play games etc. without having to have a TV licence.
TV licence inspector - Civic8
I thought the way the licence reads.If you have a receiver capable of reception of tv signals/radio whether it be tv
or video recorder/that includes pc`s with tuner card.you must have a licence.
if you have a dedicated monitor to play back dvd`s/play games
you won`t need one but there arent many who don`t use a tv to play back dvd`s or play games.As it is a receiver it has to have a licence

>>You do not need a TV licence just for owning a TV set <<

Think you will find you do.
TV licence inspector - AdrianM
"If you use or install television receiving equipment to receive or record television programme services you are required by law to have a valid TV Licence." Quote from TV licence website.

Reading this literally it would seem to imply that simply owning a set does not mean that you have to have a licence. However, I am sure that the courts interpret this along the lines of

"If you *own*, use or install television receiving equipment *capable of* to receive or record television programme services you are required by law to have a valid TV Licence."

It would be pretty difficult to prove that you own a working tv but have never turned it on!
TV licence inspector - jeds
I can assure you I have had the battle with the TVLA and have an email from them which categorically states that you do not need a TV licence unless you actually use the equipment to receive or record television programmes. I had to give them my full details - name, address, etc. to get this email. The thing that amuses me is that I was not enquiring for myself but for my mother who hates all TV and only watches pre-recorded DVD\'s, videos and likes to play Grand Theft Auto. (no. the last bit was a joke.)

Their advice was to de-tune the equipment (the TV) so that not even the tiniest picture was visible. It is not necessary to physically disable the TV - just de-tune it and you are safe. They have to actually monitor you receiveing a signal to be able to prosecute you - this can\'t happen if the TV is de-tuned.
TV licence inspector - spikeyhead {p}
The solution is is simple. I did this many years ago and haven't been bothered since.

Write them a letter thus:-

Dear Sirs,

I do not, and do not intend to own a television set. Should my circumstances in this respect ever change then I will inform you. Please ammend your records accordingly to reflect this fact. Should I move from this address then I will inform you when I do.

Should you wish to enter into any further correspondence regarding this matter then I will charge you the sum of £100 for a reply.

signed and dated....

Keep a copy in a safe place.

I wrote a letter worded thus about eight years ago. If I wrote one now I would increase the some of money to take into account inflation. Give it a try. If they still bother you after that then at least you have the satisfaction of being able to gain some pecuniary advantage from them.
--
I read often, only post occasionally
Insurance - Craig_1969
Yesterday somebody walked into the house and stole my girlfriends handbag with valuables in. We dont know how they got in, but possibly the front door didnt close properly and was open for an hour or so. We didnt see it open at any time, and all other doors are locked. Its the only explanation we have, the handbag was found in a neighbours bin.

We have reported the matter to the police, but how do I stand with my insurance company as possibly access was gained through and open door?
Insurance - Mapmaker
Craig - Have a look at the terms of your insurance policy - they vary. Many will not cover theft arising from ingress through downstairs or otherwise accessible windows and doors.

If you are not covered, take it on the chin. And I bet you don't make that mistake again...
Insurance - BobbyG
Will you possibly be covered if the door is shut but not locked? Surely we are not all expected to have our house doors all locked whilst we are inside?