thanks again for the reply . Problem though , the car idles fine ..........just the problem when reversing uphill when cold , i need to really give it some revs as if not the car will stall . My old renault 5 rusty old horrible looking thing never had a problem....at least i didnt nead to rev it hard to get up the drive !
As for the sugestion in the omega thread on the engine , insert a paper clip across the jumpers......my god i wouldnt do that id be to affraid that the thing will catch on fire .
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Silly suggestion maybe, but could you not reverse down your drive in the evening, so that you are able to drive up it in the morning? Thus the need to no longer reverse uphill when the engine is cold.
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LOL , good sugestion but thats been tried . Does the same even in 1st gear uphill when cold . Thanks for the suggestion though Dave .
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I may try the paper-clip method when im brave enough . Has anyone here actually done that method , or know how long the checking diag. takes ??
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Just been to check the cars pipe work , and I found a rubber pipe that comes off the top of the head of the engine ,that goes to another part its just behind the engine near the bulkhead , maybe a breather of some sorts ??? anyway thats been mended now , im just wondering if that was the cause of my problems ?? what is the pipe for ?????
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I have heard through the trade that these oil soaked \'performance\' air filters are causing problems by oiling up the airflow/air mass sensors.
The pipe you describe is the crankcase breather which goes to a port underneath the throttle butterfly to \'suck\' the fumes out of the crankcase. Make sure it is clear and the throttle plate and idle speed control valve is clean. If you suspect the air mass sensor it can sometimes be saved by cleaning carefully with a solvent such as brake cleaner (carb cleaner is a bit too harsh) sprayed gently onto the wires but dont be tempted to touch the wires.
hth
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!
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Thanks again for the reply . So it looks like the k&n induction air-filter(cone shaped) is not doing the engine much good ? Looks like I should replace it with the standard air box, that is if I can find one !! Will any cavalier square shaped air box fit , or does it have to be the ecotec air-box , as i dont know whether they are different ????????
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Your car is trying to help you find the problem,the warning light is saying "HEY MATE, you have a problem with.............." get rid of your stress with a paper clip test or go to any garage who will read fault for you!!
John
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The problem continues , drove home form work today and the light came on......big problem then happened........the car would not rev over 4000 rpm.....
Its booked into a garage to check the engine light coming on , on saturday......im too scared to check using a paper-clip as im scared I will blow something
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im too scared to check using a paper-clip as im scared I will blow something
If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, then fair enough. But if you goto the site I suggested earlier in this thread, and follow the instructions word for word, there shouldn't be anything to worry about with regard to blowing anything up. The info is provided free; you'll have to pay the garage somewhere ITRO £20 or more for a diagnostic check.
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Just done the paper-clip test , i was brave enough to do it . Anyway , the code that came back is "92". Im having problems trying to find what "92" means on the chart....I have a 1995 2.0 ecotec engine with the 10 pin plug .
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According to the chart, your camshaft sensor is faulty.
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Sorry to go on about this problem . please forgive me . Im good with pc`s but not to good on cars ........ anyway, how easy is this job to do and where is that sensor located ? Could it just be dirty conections , or is this non repairable ? Any ideas on cost ?
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Cost from Autovaux is £29.95 plus VAT. Vaux main dealer will be dearer. Not sure if repairable or not. Haynes manual shows how to change it.
www.autovaux.co.uk/StockItem.asp?AVCode=AVEL&AVNo=...4
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Thanks very much for the replies you have given me ! This is such a good message forum , one of the best in my opinion . My I just ask a final question if thats ok , when changing the cam-shaft sensor ive read that the belt needs to come off , could it be that the sensor is working properly and that its warning me that the cambelt needs changing , as its lost its original tension ?
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Any late cavalier filter assembly will fit your car only the inlet trunk is different but you should still have that with the K&N. You will find the car runs quieter with the original. 92 relates indeed to a faulty camshaft sensor being open or short circuit.You dont need to remove the belt, only the cover.
If you dont know the history of the belt change it, the tensioner and guide rollers asap
Andrew.
Simplicate and add lightness!
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could it be that the sensor is working properly and that its warning me that the cambelt needs changing , as its lost its original tension ?
No, no, & no. The camshaft sensor has nothing to do with the belt lifespan or tension.
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As someone else has posted - get rid of the K&N. These things are a menace on any car with a hot wire/film type air mass sensor. Oil particles settle on the hot surface and oxidise, leaving a thin layer of debris which interferes with the proper operation of the sensor. The K&N may not be causing your particular problem now, but it will not be doing much good either.
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"DAVE" forgive me for sounding silly but , whats the camshaft sensor for ?
I thought that its for the cambelt ?
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The sensor is used as a reference for the ECU to determine the camshaft's position, from which the correct timing for the sequential fuel injection can be determined.
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welshy
The engine refusing to exceed 4000 revs after the warning light came on is not another problem. It's simply that the engine management has detected a fault and is substituting a fixed value for the faulty component and limiting the engine performance to prevent damage. It will reset when it's started again.
Camshaft sensor faults are relatively common on these cars (usually once they've done about 50k miles) and when my Vectra had the problem, yes, it also refused to exceed 4000 revs. I found that the car would hesitate and the engine management light would come on after about 2 -3 miles from a cold start. If it went further without the fault showing it was unlikely to happen on that journey. Does your car behave that way?
The snag, BTW is that camshaft sensors are not cheap!
Regards
John S
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UPDATE....yesterday I cleaned the contacts on the cam sensor. Took the car for a drive and didnt come on at all . The Mrs took the car to work today , and the light still hasnt come on, we then went for a drive and still no light on . In reply to what ""John S" has said , no mine doesnt behave that way , it seems to come on when it wants to , theres no set pattern to when it comes on .
Anyway I went to a local Vauxhall specialist today , just down the road from where we live (2 miles), they do all sorts of Vauxhall work and also do the sporty type accesorys . Well he quoted me for a cash sale £130 for cambelt and the roller things . Thats all in . I think thats a good price wouldnt you think ? To fit a new cam sensor its an extra £70 , which I may leave to be honest as the light doesnt seem to come on anymore , and like the garage and people on here have said , the sensor hasnt really anything to do with the cambelt .
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