Hello !
just got back from the Dealer in Buckinghamshire
and have BOUGHT it !
£6895 for an absolutely MINT condition, Champagne metallic, 2 owners, S registered
(November 1998) Vauxhall Omega 2.5 CDX V6 Estate with 42,734 miles, HPi checked out 100%, i drove it for the very first time, and WOW !! what can i say ? smooth, quiet, frightening in first gear, but coz i am not used to it probably ? masses of room inside so i can get all my keyboards in it, it just has to be the quietest car i have ever driven, i stopped at the lights and thought i had stalled it ! which caused histerics to the salesman,
but now i have to wait till next friday to pick it up, they gave me 12 months warranty on it, after i argued i wanted 12 and NOT 6 months standard, i then said i wanted 12 months road tax and NOT 6, which he nearly lost the sale over ! coz he wouldnt budge, so i walked away, and he called me back :-)
they are also putting a new cambelt on and servicing it aswell
and YES i am OVER THE MOON !!
Thanks for all your advice, and will let you know when i get it next friday ........oooh do i sound like a kid at christmas with a new toy aeroplane... ha ha ha ha
PS: Does anybody know how much it will cost to have the windows blackened out, as a security measure for my equipment, when i stay over night anywhere ?
and i didn`t check, coz i forgot, does the CDX model come with a cd player changer thingy mee jig ?
Cheers and many thanks
Wayne
Oxfordshire
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I forgot to say it has a manual gearbox and NOT an Automatic...oh well, who cares
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Just another quick note on Value, and to make you feel sick...
A car exactly the same as your car in every detail (including the colour,engine, model ) except mileage S reg registered December 1998 with 67,000 miles is going to be on auction near Manchester , tommorow?? I think. These are the given values...
Retail $5,900
Estimated auction price $3800 - $4,400 ( It will probably sell for about $4,400 - $4,600, based on my experience)
for your lower mileage you can add on $400 - $500 onto the retail price for your car.
Point is if you are prepared to be a little brave with your money you can get a car at auction for a very nice price indeed. and the money you save in your case this would be a saving of $2000 - $2500 can be used to rectify any faults that you might find with the car, however, with a keen eye you can usually spot any problems before the sale, and cars of this age and mileage are unlikely to have major faults.
I bought my last car at auction for $3000 - 2 years!! later!! it was written off and I got an insurance settlement for $4000.
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Retail $5,900
Kev_is_here,
looks like you need to adjust your keyboard so that you can do ££££ signs. It looks like it's currently set to English American - needs changing to English British. Go into the Control Panel, double click on the Keyboard Icon, then on the Language Tab. If you click on the "Add" key, you should be able to select the correct one from the list.
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$$$
Just did that, set language to English British.
But it still does this $$$ instead of pounds.
thanks for your input but it really doesn't bother me that much as this is just a temporary laptop computer that I am using whilst I consider buying a new computer.
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Dynamic..
After restarting my computer the 3 key can now do £££ signs but I have lost the hash as a result, I can't find it anywhere. and my " and my @ keys have swapped around. Apart from that everything is fine.
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Kev, sounds like you had exactly the same problem as I had - until DD came to the rescue! My " and @ keys were the wrong way round before, btw, and now they're right. Takes a bit of gettinbg used to....
HF
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Kev,
The # key is above the RH Shift key, sandwiched between the return key and @ key, and directly below the ] key.
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The # key is above the RH Shift key, sandwiched between the return key and @ key, and directly below the ] key.
Dynamic,
Not on my computer it ain't, it used to be on the 3 key.
Above my right hand shift key is the space between the ' key and the return key, shift ' used to be " but now shift ' is @. shift 2 used to be @ but is now ". Sure enough the key above the ' key and the return key is indeed the ] key.
Wait a minute I just found the # key! it is to the right of the aforementioned ] key. and shift of this key is now ~ This gives a new problem the key that is now # used to be the "backslash" key that is to say the opposite of / and shift backslash used to be "pipe", So I have found the # key but now I am sure I will not be able to find backslash or pipe. (Pipe is an elongated form of the : key)
But at least I can do £££'s now.
Kev
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Kev, I take it the symbols have worn off the keys?
The : symbol is a colon.
The ; is a semi colon.
The \ (backslash key) is sandwitched between the LH shift key and letter Z key on my keyboard.
Have you not got "Character map" option in the Start menu? It lives in START, Accessories, System Tools.
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take it to "I have a question" in Discussion please.
And you Mr. Dynamic, should know better ;-)
M.
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Blacking out the windows won't stop your stuff getting pinched. The best (and cheapest) solution is not to leave anything on show, and that includes covering things with the parcel cover.
Insurance companies do not pay out if things have been left on show as they believe you haven't taken adequate precaution.
Jonathan
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Jonathan, i know that ! but have always wanted it done, most times it is very difficult to hide my stuff, the luggage cover wont fit once my gear is inside, as i have loads of it,
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Hi everyone, tell me what you think of this, its a warranty that i am thinking about taking out, after my dealers 1 years warranty runs out, the cost is £266 for the year, and it covers the following.....
has it missed anything on this list that i should know about ?
---------------------------------------------------------------
Gold Cover
Comprehensive Protection
Claim limit = £5,000 per claim
Excess = £0
Parts and Labour covered
Recovery
Car Hire
Overnight Hotel Accommodation
24 hour freephone helpline
Central billing
Main Dealer rates
With Gold Cover all of the following parts are covered and we will pay the labour costs if you have to have something replaced. Parts not specifically mentioned are not covered. This cover is available for any vehicle that is less than 5 years old and has travelled less than 60,000 miles at the date the policy starts.
Gold cover is available as a monthly warranty, cover is for a minimum of 6 months and will run until the car reaches 100,000 miles or 10 years old. Cover can be cancelled at any point after the first 6 months.
Monthly cover gives you the flexibility of only buying warranty cover for the period you want it for.
For fixed periods of cover please call 0800 731 7001 quoting INT01.
Engine
Cylinder head, internal bushings, oil pump, crankshaft and bearings, tappet gear, valves & guides, pistons & rings, cylinder bores/liners, con rods, distributor drive, starter ring gear, flywheel, autodrive plate, camshaft drive belts, camshaft & cam followers, cylinder head gasket, cylinder block, crankshaft pulley, turbo/intercooler units, inlet & exhaust manifold, rear main seal, rocker assembly, push rods, timing gears, timing belts & chains.
Clutch
The master and slave cylinder, clutch cable and pedal assembly.
Transmission (Manual, Automatic and Overdrive)
Manual Transmission: gears, synchromesh hubs & rings, selectors, shafts, bearings, drive chains plus gear lever and bushes.
Automatic Transmission: torque converters, brake bands, valve block, governor (manual & electric) oil pump and seals, drive chains, gears, input shaft oil seal, clutches, servos and modulator valve, bearings plus gear lever and bushes.
Overdrive: Gears, shafts and bearings.
Front Wheel Drive Unit
Crown wheel and pinion, differential unit, bushes and bearings, plus external drive shafts, couplings, C.V. joints and rubber boots, hubs, drive flange and universal joints.
Rear Axle
Crown wheel and pinion, differential unit, shafts, bearings, C.V. joints and rubber boots, oil seal and rear hub, & drive flange.
Four Wheel Drive System
Front differential, inter-axle differential and lock, rear differential and lock, bearings and shafts, couplings, C.V. joints and rubber boots, hubs and drive flange.
Propshaft
Propshaft, universal joints, centre bearings and oil seals.
Suspension
Shock absorbers, upper and lower wishbones, control arms, stabilising bars with associated ball joints, swivel pins and bushes, springs, displacer units and wheel bearings, self levelling suspension unit, reservoir, pump and regulator valve, tailgate suspension struts.
Braking System
Master cylinder; brake servo unit, diesel vacuum pump, callipers, wheel cylinders, pressure regulator, ABS pump and control unit. ABS pressure reducing and proportioning valves, handbrake lever and assembly; handbrake control cables and linkages, brake pedal assembly, self-adjusting mechanisms, brake pipes and hoses.
Cooling System
Radiator, thermostat, water pump, heater matrix, engine oil cooler, viscous fan, thermostat housing, temperature gauge, electronic control units and control linkages.
Steering
Rack and pinion, steering box, idler box, column shaft, couplings, steering column tilt mechanism, power steering unit including pump, pressure pipes and reservoir, tie rods and tie rod ends.
Fuel System
Mechanical and electrical fuel pumps, carburettors, airflow meter, fuel distributor, warm-up regulator, cold start valve injectors (including injector cooling system), pressure damper, auxiliary air regulator, timing valve, deceleration valve, overrun cut-off valve, fuel gauge and tank sender unit.
Diesel Injection System
D.I.S. unit and controls, injection pump, injectors, glow plugs, electromagnetic cut-off.
Electronic Ignition
All solid state control and triggering units, where fitted as standard by the manufacturer.
Air Conditioning
Air conditioning compressor pump, condenser, electronic control unit, control linkages, magnetic clutch and valves, evaporator and reservoir, fan control and sensors.
Electrics
Internal failure of the starter motor, alternator, regulator, distributor, windscreen wiper motor and tailgate wiper motor, heating fan motor, cooling fan motor, horn, central locking solenoids and motors, electric window motors and sunroof motors, electric door mirror motors and aerial motors, front and rear windscreen washer motors, headlamp adjuster motors, cruise control unit, trip computer, relays and wiring looms, rev counter, radiator cooling fan, indicator flasher unit.
Casings
Casings are covered provided they have been damaged as a result of failure of an insured part or by the consequential damage of an insured part failing.
Oil Leaks
Notwithstanding exclusion 10 of the policy, this covers seal or gasket replacement that necessitates the removal of the engine, gearbox/drive unit and drive shafts or differential unit to carry out repairs.
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just so i know guys, how often should i have it fully serviced ?
i know it says every 10,000 miles ?
but someone said on here i should change the oil every 5000 with synthetic oil ? should i do the same for the air filter and everything else ?
how often to change the fan belt ?
or have air con serviced on regular periods ?
if i appear stupid and thick, i am !
i just haven`t got a clue, bearing in mind i used to own a Peugeot 405 diesil estate..
i just want to make sure it is very well looked after, so i can actually get to 150,000 miles in it :-)
thanks...
Wayne
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how often should i have it fully serviced ? i know it says every 10,000 miles ?
10,000 miles, or annually, whichever comes sooner.
someone said on here i should change the oil every 5000
Personally, I would stick with 10,000 miles.
should i do the same for the air filter and everything else ?
Every 2 years, or 20,000 miles - whichever comes sooner for air & fuel filter. The service handbook should tell you though, along with advice on when to change plugs, etc.
how often to change the fan belt ?
How long is a piece of string. This is something that only needs changing when the belt looks worn.
or have air con serviced on regular periods ?
Run it at regular intervals (at least once every 2 weeks) In HJ's FAQ's there is some helpful advice on aircon.
And don't forget, new cambelt at every 40,000 miles.
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Glad you're happy - I thought you'd gone off the idea with some of your posts.
Get it serviced every 10K miles, with an oil change at 5K. I specify a semi synthetic but I wonder if it's worth it. Then I remember how cheap oil is versus a rebuild and I think again.
Use the air con ALL the time. It makes no noticeable difference to the fuel consumption, and keeping it on will result in (a) fewer problems with the aircon (b) quicker and better demisting.
Get the cambelt and tensioners changed when it's done 40K miles since the last change. 200 quid or so (though mine's a V6, so mine might be more) which sounds a lot till you work it out as 0.5p per mile (i.e. naff all).
Then sit back and enjoy your daily Omegasm.
V
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A gaurantee is only as good as the words that are used to make it up.
It would not surprise me if your gaurantee said it does not cover items which fail from normal use, through wear and tear.
So you will find that 30,000 miles down the road when your wishbone bushes need replacing, you will have to pay for them because it is normal wear and tear. However I might be wrong and you should phone them up and ask them exactly what is and is not covered, giving them examples, such as the one I just gave you, and others such as what if the rocker cover leaks due to the breather pipes becoming blocked? or the diff seal starts leaking? what requirements are there for servicing? I think you said in another post you have "a little man" who does your work for you, would the insurance cover require servicing records to be kept, if so would your "little man" be good enough or would it have to be a vauxhall dealer service.
Personally I think the idea of taking out a gaurantee is a waste of your money. After all they only gaurantee cars under 5 years old with less than 60,000 miles, they do this for a reason because these cars are unlikely to develop many faults.
You would be far better off saving your money and you will probably find you will have many years happy motoring and money in your pocket not theirs. Just don't take your car to a Vx dealer for servicing, take it to a small garage you can trust. I have a little man who is excellent, and I can watch and I even help him do certain jobs when needs be. for example my man wil charge
$25 to change a timing belt
$10 to adjust handbrake
$15 - $20 to change a set of pads and discs.
$ = pounds
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i didn`t check, coz i forgot, does the CDX model come with a cd player changer thingy mee jig ?
From memory, yes. Most prob will have the Philips ccr600 in the dash, with a 6 disc multiplay in the boot. However, as it's an estate, it might have the 4 disc multiplay in the glovebox.
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Thanks Vin, mine is the V6 aswell :-)
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Hey Dynamic Dave, is the Philips ccr600 any good then ?
whats the wattage of it ?
and do you know which manufacturer does replacement speakers to fit straight in when i remove the standard ones that come with the car ?
oh yeah, how many speakers are actually in my model which is the CDX specification
cheers everyone, you guys are lifesavers !!
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Wayne, I don't understand abouit the speakers ... if the sheer quietness of the car is so appealing, as you told us, why do you want to contaminate that? I *never* have a radio/cassette on when I am driving a decent car; the sweet sound of the engine is all the entertainment I need!
Anyway, congratulations on getting the car. The Omega is one of my favourites and Champagne is a gorgeous colour. It sounds as though you might have preferred the automatic but I think the manual gearbox would be a Getrag which is possibly the best anywhere.
As always there is contradicting advice being given on oil changes. Personally I think changing at 6 months/5000 miles is good advice for many engines running with mineral oil (especially if the sump oil capacity is relatively small) but it would be a waste of money to change synthetic oil at this mileage. Not so sure about semi-synthetic as I don't have enough experience with this to make a judgement, though I would guess that it could be left for more than 5000 miles without risk of any damaging deterioration.
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I forgot to comment about the value of extending the warranty. A search on this forum should bring up a lot of correspondence on the subject, mostly *not* in favour if I have understood correctly. It is certainly my own view that they are not worth having, for the reasons given in previous postings.
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Dizzy, yes the quietness of the car is very appealing, but....... I am a Professional Musician, and i love a good stereo system in ANY of my cars in the past, volume is not an issue for me, but quality is, cheers for your comments about the servicing etc....all the best mate
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have any of you had problems with the car misting up ?
and having difficulty getting rid of it ?
aparently coz the car is so well sealed, it steams up easy?
i no that the AIRCON should help this out though
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have any of you had problems with the car misting up
Sounds like the pollen filter needs changing. Couple of threads mentioning the misting up of Omegas. The 1st one asking about it, then the 2nd thread mentioning that changing it cured the problem.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=7306
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=75...4
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Just want to add my comments as a keyboard musician and someone who has done a lot in sound over the years, the Omega is an eeringly quiet motor and definitely the nicest car I've driven. I bought a 2.0 16V automatic GLS 1999 T with 95K on the clock yet its as sweet and smooth as a new model! In park or neutral I have often had to glance at the rev counter to check if the engine was running! As for CD players, I fitted the CDR500 (or is it 600?) vauxhall one, after the VDO cd player failed to recognise the traffic master system. The sound quality of the CDR500 is far superior to the cheaper VDO units and the basic factory fit speakers (there are 8 - 4 tweeters and 4 full range on the gls) are extremely good unless you want to pump up the dance music! Another nice feature of the CDR500 is speed sensitive volume, though in an omega you dont really need it! (it turns up the volume when you go faster).
The automatic is as smooth as silk though, the sports mode is a scream though as all there is a slight hesitance which you need to be aware of when overtaking. I guess the 2.5 is much better though in terms of torque and acceleration, the 3.0 must be awesome!
Mine's diamond black, and comes standard with very dark tinted glass... I've also gone over to using synthetic Mob 1 oil and am considering whether to replace the autobox oil or not. Had mine now for nearly a year (already covered 15,000 miles!) and (touch wood) it hasn't presented any problems whatsover.
I think any omega owner will say the same, they do represent superb second hand value motoring if you like that sort of thing.
Simon Williams
_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com
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NVOM, the ccr600 is fitted in my Vectra. Haven't a clue how many watts it pumps out. All the ICE in the Vectra is factory standard and I'm quite happy with the sound quality. As for the Omega, being an estate, are the rear speakers in the tailgate, like the old Carlton, or have Vaux moved them to the rear doors? If they are in the tailgate, I suspect the quality won't be that good. Most ICE manufacturers will supply replacement speakers - Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. The only downside I've found with the multiplay cd is that it is very choosey about what cdr's it plays. Some won't play at all. Some skip and jump. A lot of my earlier recordings to cdr will play without any problems, but it cannot cope with 80 min/700MB cdr's at all.
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CCR600 is 4 x 20 watts ........
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Okay, have decided to have a FULL service for my new car every 5000 miles, i dont care about the expense, i just want it to last for a long time, and i think its worth it, do you all agree ?
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No, I don't agree. Not technical here though.
That's just chucking money away, especially if you got to main dealer. (If you are considering keeping the car to 150k + then whether the service history is Vaux or backstreet wqill not make much difference).
In the MV6 I change the oil anywhere between 6000 and 10000 miles. I get the oil changes done in Kwikfit, but that's all I go there for (they are cheap, I went to synthetic Mobil 1 two changes ago - £34 incl filter and fitting).
I had one Vaux service when I bought it, since then "my little man" does "service" the car. He does just what I want him to, which always includes the main "sensible" service spec items which are out of my scope (i.e. I can check bulb operation and seat belt webbing, but not change plugs which are a bit of a pig on the MV6). I had the brake oil changed last time around, not sure if it was due, but seemed sensible to get something more "major" done when the service isn't going to cost me much.
If you have alloys, buy Green Stuff brake pads. MV6 has Irmscher alloys which look excellent until dusted over. Green Stuff, in addition to outperforming regular pads, are dust free. And, they Really Are. I can do 1000 miles without having to clean the wheels - before they would dust over in 100. (www.sejoc.co.uk/ are tyhe UK impoirters, I called them and the pads arrived two days later for Dougie to fit - about £70 for front and back IIRC, although the rears are just Kevlar rather than Green Stuff).
The radio in mine seems to have developed a small occassional problem of losing output when hot but until it gets much worse I can put up with it (just turn off for 1 min, back on, and all is OK)
There is a good chance that sooner or later you will have a reasonably large expense on the car so tuck away the money you are thinking of wasting on servicing until that day. (The tyres on mine were about to cost over £600 for the set, my tyre dealer recommended BF Goodrich as cheaper but quality alternative and they are over 20k and not yet ready for change...they were about £320).
Oh, and buy a Haynes manual even though you may not understand it - Dougie has found ti invaluable sometimes. And, of course, come back here where Robert, Vin and many others have given a wealth of info about Omegas.
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btw pollen filter was about a tenner in Halfords, 2 minutes to change it. Did the air filter at the same time and, most importantly, spent twice as much as the filters cost me on giant bottles of AutoGlym products to maintain the MV6s good looks. That was money (and time) Really Well spent.
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Where is the pollen filter located exactly? as when i pick up the car i will check if it`s ok, how do you tell if it needs changing ?
i tried that site ( www.sejoc.co.uk ) but it didnt load unfortunately
plus i would NEVER go to a Vauxhall garage, i also got a friend like Dougie in my village, he does all the servicing and is very reasonably priced, the best oil to use for my 2.5 V6 is what make and kind? theres several recommendations on here
also, have you seen the people that work in the places such as KWIF FIT ? most of them are about 18 !!
i wouldnt trust them to pump my tyre up !
i have heard some nightmare stories from people about these fast fit places, unless you find an experienced looking bloke in there, i think i will avoid them, a good point also about saving my cash, incase anything major ever does go wrong, have already started, £500 should be a good start i think ?
i will also pick up a HAYNES manual tomorrow :-)
is it also possible for me to have the standard stereo taken out and put my £700 clarion head unit in? or is the stereo the kind that is mounted into the dashboard ?
Thanks Chaps :-)
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is the stereo the kind that is mounted into the dashboard
I think you need to slow down a bit.
Given that you don't know what type of stereo it is, whether or not it has a CD changer etc. etc. you'll be better to get used to the car and find out what its like before you worry about what and how you are going to change it.
I always thought I was one of the most careless buyers in the universe, but even I look at something before I buy it.
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In response to some of the posts here and elsewhere, I've replaced my pollen (cabin?) filter today (under bonnet, nearside, by the passenger bulkhead - instructions on Halfords filter are a mirror image of the real thing, five minute job in the car park at Halfords)
Well! I wondered why I wasn't getting a flow of air through the face vents. Now I know. Astounding. The old filter was black and clearly wasn't letting a lot through. Be interesting to see whether the cabin warms up better in the morning.
Total cost? £8.99.
V
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Someone has helped with the pollen filter, def worth doing.
sejoc site seems dead - here's another www.brakeco.com/EBC%20Brake%20Pads.htm
I changed to fully synth Mobil 1 but I know there are people here who would recommend semi rather than fully. I always watch KwikFit doing the oil change as I too have an opinion on them, and also you must always ignore them touting for other work - "those tyres are a bit low sir"
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Hey Smokie, thanks for the info on green stuff pads, what ones do i need for my Omega Estate ?
i cant see anywhere, where you can buy online, or what ones i need
cheers mate
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