Further information about the operation of the 306's immobiliser (it does have one!), copied from the handbook for a late-1993 306 XRDT (early 1993 models may be different).
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"Alarm System (according to specification or country)
- Some models are fitted with an alarm system which protects the doors, tailgate and bonnet. In addition the engine is immobilised and internal sensors detect air movement within the car. The sensors can be over-ridden if required (see below)."
"To switch the complete system on/off
- A master switch, operated by a dedicated key, is located in the engine compartment behind the left hand front headlamp. It is protected by a plastic cover."
"To activate the system fully
- The remote control (PLIP) unit is the only means of activating the system when locking the car. All the indicator lamps and the side repeaters will flash once when activated. Activating the system sets the alarm and neutralises the starter. This process takes approximately forty-five seconds to complete. When activated, the alarm indicator lamp, located to the left of the central vent controls, will flash continuously."
"To deactivate the system fully
- The system is only deactivated by the PLIP when the car is unlocked. All the indicator lamps and the side repeaters will flash rapidly several times when deactivated.
- If on deactivating the alarm with the PLIP the alarm indicator lamp flashes rapidly, it indicates that the alarm has been triggered during your absence.
- If the front door or the tailgate are inadvertently unlocked and then opened by means of the key, the siren will operate. In this event the system can be de-activated by the PLIP.
- Should the batteries of the PLIP become discharged or if the PLIP is not available for any reason then the vehicle must be unlocked using the key. In this instance the complete system must be switched off using the master switch located in the engine compartment."
"To deactivate the internal sensors
- The following procedure must be followed each time you wish to leave the car with the sensors deactivated.
- Press the switch mounted on the right of the steering column. The central alarm indicator lamp will light permanently.
- Lock the vehicle by means of the PLIP. The lamp will revert to a flashing mode."
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However, my 306's alarm has a mind of its own.
From new, it has occasionally false-alarmed. Typically this happens when the car is very wet and after it has been parked for five or ten minutes. But it isn't as consistent as this makes it sound. It false-alarms on average every couple of months or so.
The underbonnet master switch (described above) does not turn the system completely off. The alarm can be set and is fully operational whichever position the underbonnet switch is in. Though turning the switch will turn off the alarm if it is sounding.
Starting from when the car was about 5 years old, the alarm occasionally goes "half-off", as well as continuing to occasionally false-alarm. It makes a continuous ticking noise from under the bonnet (a relay rapidly switching on and off). You can only stop it by disarming the system with the PLIP and then also turning the underbonnet master switch.
When the car was 8 years old, I left it in the care of my brother while I went on holiday. The alarm went off on his drive. He couldn't turn the alarm off and the car was immobilised, so he called the AA. The AA-man managed to turn the alarm off, but couldn't properly un-immobilise it. He was able to bypass the immobiliser temporarily and get the car started (never explained how to my non-techy brother), and told my brother to drive straight to the nearest Peugeot dealer, making sure he didn't stall the engine on the way! The garage quoted £400 to replace the alarm system, or £60 to bypass the immobiliser. Surprisingly, since I would have to pay, he chose the £60 option. The invoice merely states "Disconnect Alarm - No Parts Issued".
Whatever the garage did, it wasn't disconnect the alarm, since the alarm works exactly as it did before, including occasional false-alarms and half-offs. Maybe they really did bypass the immobiliser, but I don't really believe it.
Last year I finally gave up with the alarm. These days I lock the car with the key, holding the key in the locked position for 2 seconds to set the deadlocks, and unlock it with the PLIP. No more false alarms, no more half-offs, no immobiliser. Bliss.
Ian
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Excellent Problem solved!
Followed the instruction of "OILBURNER" and eventually found the plug located in a black plastic box under the back rest of the rear seat. Disconected it and then reconected it, and low and behold the starter turned on the key!!!!!
The battery was too low to start the engine and when tested was condemmed to the scrap heap.
So one new battery later and the car is up and running (unfortunately had to pay £57.00 at Halfords as Costco was out of stock of theirs at £44.00).
So my father-in- law is over the moon and thinks that I am some sort of a Guru!
Thanks Everyone!!
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Ian T...thanks for the 306 handbook info confirming the immobiliser fitment, and to Oilburner for his reset tip.
As a matter of interest I've looked out the records for the two early 306s I look after and one has a Sparkrite alarm and no immob, the other has the whole lot disconnected. These were both altered before they came to me.
Obviously from this and your experience these alarms/immobs are quite tricky...as is the one on my Xantia to be honest.
All the more modern 306s I look after have either keypad or key transponder immobilisers and these seem more reliable ...so far.
MM
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And I also want to pass on some thanks to Oilburner.
I saw this plastic box in a well hidden place under the back seat some time ago, and wondered what it was. I bet that's all the garage did for its £60 when the car went in to have the immobiliser fixed!
Ian
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Once had a similar problem with a 405 TD with the same alarm.
Only the siren came on, never the headlamps (quite frequent when the battery was getting weak). On putting in a new battery, the alarm went off twice as usual but the headlamps kept flashing, no matter what I did. Disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, starting the car (started fine), locking and unclocking the doors all had no effect.
I took out the alarm fuse then put it back in again. The alarm was perfect afterwards. I would get both the lights and siren on a 'break-in'.
James
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Glad my tip has worked.
I originaaly came across this when I was having trouble with the central locking (It used to lock and then immediately unlock). A mechanic friend suggested that you could undo the plug under the back seat and revert to manual locking, although alarm and immobiliser wouldn't work of course.
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Had a similar problem myself with a 306 diesel. Bought it without alarm fob but have keys.
Model has factory alarm/immob but is version before keypad.
After reconnecting battery car would not start (headlights lights flashed whenever you tried).
Solution was to disconnect battery, then turn ignition on to the normal running position, then re-connect battery. This seems to disable the alarm/immob and allows you to start the car.
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Some more tricks with those peugeot/citroen alarms:
If the alarm is armed and you can't disarm it (lost plip / plip battery run out), you can disarm it by manually unlocking the car, then turning the ignition on whilst holding the switch near the ignition key down.
Also to reset the alarm, arm the alarm, then unlock and relock the doors manually, then rapidly press the plip button until the doors open.
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Hi. My sister's car was suffering with alarm/immobiliser problems as well. After fiddling around with it for nearly a week, we logged onto this forum and followed some of the advice in these pages. I am very happy to report that the method above was the one that did the trick, so thank you very much for the invaluable advice. You see, your help and words of wisdom spread far and wide!
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Hi there, we experienced exactly this problem with my dad's 1995 306 XRd M Reg. We tried most of the methods above but the one that finally clinched it was the holding the button in (the alarm button near the ignition) and starting, turning the ignition on whilst holding the button down. great forum, many thanks for everyone's words of wisdom :o)
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£5 for unplugging and plugging and £55 for knowing what to do!!
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And I also want to pass on some thanks to Oilburner. I saw this plastic box in a well hidden place under the back seat some time ago and wondered what it was. I bet that's all the garage did for its £60 when the car went in to have the immobiliser fixed! Ian
£5 for plugging and unplugging and £55 for knowing what to do!!
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Hey I had this exact problem with a 306XRDT from 1995. The battery died so I jump started it and drove it but could not restart it afterwards. There is a small red light above the radio unit that I think indicates the anti-start immobiliser is on.
Fixed it by disconnect the battery then reconnecting it with the doors locked. Then went into the car and turned the key and pressed the small alarm button on the right of the steering rack for about 10 seconds. The immobiliser light went out and the car started up fine!
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I had the same problem this morning after fitting a new battery, the under bonnet switch was in the 'off' position already and i got the same symptoms, flashing lights, alrm buzzing, non start after waiting for the re heat to go out.
Having tried the grey plug, this did not work so then tried the manual locking of the doors, switching the ignition on with the little button next to the ignition switch pushed in [has the alrm legend on it].
Presto hey! Thank you very much guys, wish i had looked here early, would have saved me 3 hours faffing.........
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I've an 806td, and tried the method of pushing the button for several seconds before starting, and it worked!! Top advice thanks. Just got to switch the car off now....wont with the key! :o/
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